Pel's fishing owl is one of the hardest birds to see in the whole of Africa. Huge and almost entirely nocturnal, this near-mythical creature prowls the swamps and waterways of the continent in search of its fishy prey.

So as I set off to explore the Okavango Delta on a bright, sunny morning, Pel's fishing owl was not very high on the list of birds I expected to see. I was in a low-slung, traditional canoe known as a mokoro - easily the best way to explore this watery wonderland. Though this is a mode of transport that leaves the passenger feeling pretty vulnerable, especially when I heard the rumbling laughter of a hippo coming from the nearby reeds.

But as we were poled expertly through the shallow water, my fears gave way to delight. A tiny painted reed frog clung to a stem, allowing me to appreciate its stunning variety of colours as we glided past. Water-lilies thronged the surface, giving the misleading impression that we were passing across a giant ornamental pond. And along the edges of the water red lechwe – a medium-sized antelope with a preference for swampy habitats, were warily feeding.

And, of course, there are the birds. Squacco herons exploded from the reeds in front of us in a flurry of ochre and white. African jacanas walked across the aquatic vegetation on long, splayed toes. And overhead, a magnificent African fish eagle was soaring, chestnut and white against the clear blue sky.

I was relaxing into my mokoro ride when the poler in front called out – he had seen an owl flying off into the distance. As it disappeared into the trees on a nearby island I realised that the huge size and gingery plumage all pointed to one species: Pel's fishing owl. I experienced a mixture of delight and frustration at such brief and inconclusive views.

We moored the boats and scanned the thick vegetation. After a minute or two, someone spotted the owl perched on a branch. Unlike most other large owls this species lacks the usual tufted "ears", and has a round-headed appearance, with what can only be described as a kindly expression on its face. Not so kind if you are a fish, presumably.

We edged closer, and I enjoyed some of the best views I have had of any owl, let alone such a rare and elusive species. A minute or so later this magnificent bird decided to seek a quieter spot to rest for the day, and flew off. A truly memorable encounter with one of Africa's most mysterious birds.