A Fritzing file will be available below. This will allow you to interact with the circuitry and if you left click and hold, you can see what wires are all connected (highlighted in yellow dots) files that need to be imported to Fritzing before you open the file will be down below (for the Pro Micro and LEDs).

Make sure the pins labled "MOSI, MISO or SCLK" are UNUSED or it will cause glitches with the OLED.

After cutting the 6 LEDs into single strips, and gluing them onto the plate. Place the soldering iron on the copper pads, and add solder to each of the pads. Cut small pieces of wire and strip half of it, twist it, then take the other half off and twist the wire. The wire will need to be held with pliers or some soldering helping hands, while you get it held in place by the solder. Add more solder to hold it there nicely. Solder all of the LEDs in the row together. Cut a wire, and solder it to the end of the LED on the first row, with the label 'DO' or 'D-', and connect it to the first LED on the second row with the label 'DI' or 'D+'. You can do this with the 5v and GND too, but it's easier if the first LEDs 5v and GND on each row are wired together. Wire the 5v wire to VCC, Data pin to any digital pin (code has it set as 10) and GND to a GND on the Arduino.

To get the Arduino to recognize an input, the switches need to connect ground to a data pin. So, you can solder one wire to connect all 6 switches to ground. Solder one wire to each switch, and if possible, try to change the colours of wire to keep track of what switch is what wire. Feed the wires through the LED plate and wire them to a data pin on the Arduino (I used data pins 5-9 for this)

The two switches on the side have different functions, one is a reset switch for programming, while the other is a function switch, which will switch between layers of the Keypad to quickly change functions of the buttons. The top switch, is wired to reset (RST) and GND, when connected, it causes the reset. The bottom switch is wired up to pin 18, which is labeled as A0 on the Pro Micro.Give yourself some slack with the switch wires, as you still need to slide in the plates, and too little of a wire won't allow the plates to inset through the top.