Twin Cities restaurant veteran/general manager John Gleason (Masu at the Mall of America, Can Can Wonderland, etc.) has branched out and now has a place to call his own. In his first solo restaurant venture, Gleason is paying an ode to dishes from Seoul, where he was born, as well as fare from the Twin Cities where he was raised.

The result is Bap and Chicken, an order-at-the-counter, food-brought-to-your-table eatery on Grand Avenue in St. Paul housing an eclectic mix of contemporary East-meets-West fare.

On a recent visit, we came across some curious curveball combinations, especially among the bimbimbap-inspired rice bowl offerings — salmon with kiwi in a sesame-champagne vinaigrette and fried-bacon wrapped Spam with cheese curds among them. And in the bulgogi bibimbap, however much steak paired with brie cheese seemed like a mismatch, it only took one bite to know that the unlikely combo was meant to be.

At the end of the day, Korean fried chicken is the star of the show. From fried chicken sandwiches to drummies, the menu at Bap and Chicken counts the many ways in which it loves thee.

Chicken here is twice-fried, as is the Korean tradition, for an uber-crisp coating. But here, Gleason goes rogue and uses a special tempura batter, which he says results in a thinner and crispier shell which helps keep the chicken moist “while still providing that lovely crunch.”

Our favorite item in this category was the Korean Fried Chicken Sandwich, a tender chicken thigh with a bright and light cabbage-cucumber slaw that held together well. Ranking right up there was the bibimbap with a crispy, boneless chicken thigh over rice, kimchi, oyster mushrooms, bok choy and a soft poached egg.

The Korean fried chicken drummies had less crisp than the sandwich and the bibimbap bowl and they were brushed with a slightly kicky sauce. But we liked the fact that we had the option of ordering a six- or 12-piece, which made it easy to share.

If you want to check the place out, in addition to its regular hours, the restaurant is holding a grand opening celebration from noon to 3 p.m. on Sept. 22 for some food, fun and camaraderie. There will be beer, wine and food specials, a photo booth and kid-friendly features such as a balloon artist and arts and crafts. And football fans need not worry. Gleason has you covered with plans to have the Vikings noon game against the Oakland Raiders on the bar TV.

Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of new or changed restaurants.

BAP AND CHICKEN

Where: 1328 Grand Ave., St. Paul

Info: 651-333-0929; bapandchicken.com

Prices: Snacks $2.50 to $8; Bibimbap $7 to $14; Korean Fried Chicken $10 (sandwich) to $29 (whole); dessert $4, $5.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday

More: Grand opening celebration Sunday, Sept. 22, noon to 3 p.m.