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To hear Baird Rumiano tell it, the story of the Rumiano Cheese Company — which its executives say is the oldest family-owned cheese maker in California — is not simply about cheese.

It’s also a family tale, a story about a making your way in America. It’s a story shaped by war and, more recently, by whey (protein).

Recently, I wrote about how Musso & Frank, an iconic Hollywood restaurant, has managed to stay in business for a century in a rapidly transforming California. I wondered the same about Rumiano, which celebrated its 100th birthday late last month.

Today, the company has almost 200 employees at a manufacturing facility in Crescent City, a coastal town not far from the Oregon border, and at a distribution center in Willows, near Chico.