The prestigious Michelin Guide allowed a French chef to hand back his three stars on Tuesday after he complained that the coveted top rating put him under too much pressure.

Restaurants have voluntarily lost stars in the past because they decided to change their cooking style, but it is the first time the gastronomic bible has allowed a leading restaurant to withdraw from its listings while continuing to offer the same cuisine.

Food critics said the move could jeopardise Michelin’s reputation as a comprehensive guide to the best restaurants, and make it less relevant in the age of online customer reviews.

Sebastien Bras, 46, whose signature dish, ‘gargouillou’, made with asparagus, baby spinach, herbs, rocket, cherry tomatoes and edible flowers, is considered one of France’s finest culinary creations, has held the maximum three stars for 18 years.

When he asked for his restaurant, Le Suquet, in Laguiole, southern France, to be removed, Michelin executives were taken aback.