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With Scotland on the brink of leaving the UK,travels through the blighted post-industrial belt of south Wales, and samples the quiet decline of Labour's century-long dominance. Two radically different visions of the future are on offer: from the pro-independence Plaid Cymru leader Leanne Wood, and from Stephen Kinnock, son of the Welsh former Labour leader and now a would-be Labour MPFeatures the Manic Street Preachers song Manorbier