The next morning we crawled out of our still-standing tent to see a woman herding some cattle up the gorge past our tent. She smiled at us and alternately squeezed her left and right hands in the air while pulling them downwards and we understood that she was going to milk her cows. She returned before we finished breaking down our camp and waved us down the hill saying, “Chai! Chai!” which we understood now to mean tea. So we loaded up our bikes again, the splinted tent pole sticking out the back of my bike like a bee stinger, and walked them down to our hosts’ tent back by the main road.