Posted on: May 19, 2011

Everest and Lhotse pictured here, were climbed in under a day by Michael Horst. [Photo] Alpine Ascents International

On May 14, American guide Michael Horst climbed Everest (8848m) and Lhotse (8516m) in under 21 hours. We believe this establishes him as the first to climb two 8,000-meter peaks in a single day.

Horst, a guide for Alpine Ascents International, signed on for climbing both peaks with client Rob Hart and two Sherpas as part of AAI's Everest Lhotse combination program. Once the team summitted Everest at 9:30 a.m., they returned to Camp IV at the South Col (7906 meters). Following an afternoon rest, Horst traversed the South Col and began climbing Lhotse without Hart, who was content just summitting Everest. Horst reached the summit at 5:50 a.m., 21 hours after he summitted Everest.



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Throughout the two climbs and during his recuperation in the South Col camp, Horst used supplementary oxygen. During his climb from Lhotse's High Camp (7800 meters) to the summit, he also ascended fixed lines established by the Sherpas. Horst is still in the field and was unavailable for comment on his climb.

Sources: Alpineascents.com, Climbing.com, Gordon Janow