Active Duty Military Watches $50-$300

Note: ABC watch means Altimeter (altitude tracking), Barometer (predict rain), Compass. Atomic means its time is corrected by radio tower

Cheap Beater: Casio G-Shock DW-5600E $41 – digital/quartz

Most Iconic G-Shock: Casio G-Shock GW-5000 $320 solar [Amazon] (the modern version of the older DW-5000C)

Size/Some Features/Mudproof Combo: Casio G-Shock G-9300 “Mudman” $129 [Amazon or Yellow – Amazon] is more mud/dirt/dust resistant, big and mudproof like GX-56 King (not quite as big but easier to press buttons), compass, has moonphase (Rangeman doesn’t), No altimeter/barometer/sunrise-sunset/atomic

Feature Rich / Bang-ability: Casio G-Shock G-9400 “Rangeman” (new version of GW-9200 Riseman) $180 [Amazon GW94001CR, GW9400J-1JF, GW9400BJ-1JF black negative display]. Solar, ABC, temp sensor, auto light by turning wrist towards your face, but no mud-resist (can take mud but not operate buttons). Compared to Riseman, the Rangeman is larger/heavier, newer sensor/module, added compass, slightly less comfortable, and illuminated by LED (though people say LED is uneven and too bright vs EL). The J (Japanese models) have the more expensive/stiff carbon fiber strap, not necessary as the regular rubber resin strap is super durable and soft/comfortable. Negative display is generally not recommended, looks cool but more difficult to read the time.

Most Features: Suunto Core All Black $260 [Amazon], Alu (aluminum) Deep Black $280 [Amazon], Brushed Steel (Stainless Steel model with sapphire glass) $350 [Amazon]. All the features and most precise sensors (ABC, storm alarm, sunrise/sunset indicator). Quartz – battery lasts 1 year but only takes 2mins to swap and weather-seal yourself

Best: Casio G-Shock Rangeman $180 for lots of bang-ability or Suunto Core for higher sensor precision and less rugged/bulky. DON’T get Casio Pro Trek (new version of Casio Pathfinder): bigger screens but not as resistant to bumps and scratches (you can actually replace the bezel on G-shocks). Seiko (ie SBEB001) and Tissot may be working on ABCs.

Mid-level Classy Automatics $200-600

Sea-Gull $220+ Classy automatics and skeletons [US Seagull, Seagullwatchstore, Amazon] ie D58

Tissot PR 516 GL (old world sporty feel) $415 [Ebay] or newer Tissot Visodate $375 [Amazon, eBay] (albeit black has a white day/date). Tissot Le Locle [Amazon – Black, White]. Other popular recommended models: Powermatic 80 [Amazon, eBay], PRC 200

Hamilton popular solid American brand and great value ETAs (however sometimes known for poor lume and strap/band quality and no anti-reflective coating) Note that they are on sale often. Classier models include Jazzmaster Viewmatic $500 [Amazon, eBay], Intra-Matic $600 (best value Bauhaus style) [Amazon, eBay], Thin-O-Matic $600 [Amazon, eBay]

Steinhart Marine $430 [Marine Chronometer II Roman, Marine Chronometer II Arabic] Super classy and great value for the quality (IWC Portuguese homage), only gripe is that they might be too classy for everyday watch. Roman (Roman numerals) is more classy than Arabic (regular numerals). Better value than the double-the-price Stowa Marine Original.

Seiko Spirit (SARB) is a super classy series including the $390 iconic green Alpinist SARB017 [Amazon], the black dial SARB033 [Amazon, eBay] or white SARB035 [Amazon], SARB065 Shinobu Ishigaki “Cocktail Time” [Amazon, eBay]. Don’t believe the extra $200 is worth it for the $570 SARB021 or SARB023, Secondarily: Orient Vintage Power Reserve $200 [Amazon] or Orient Star Classic $400 [Amazon]

Seiko Skeleton Eye (SSA) [Amazon] or Coutura [Amazon]

Perpetual Watches: Superb beautiful watches at good prices (albeit Seagull movement). Sold out frequently, unfortunately. Models include: Chronograph C-0 $380, Chronograph C-05 $500 (Patek Philippe 3970P homage)

Rolex Explorer homage: Smiths Everest $400 [Timefactors], Bernhardt Binnacle Anchor Miyota movement $259 [Bernhardt Anchor Black], Seiko SNKM77 can look similar with $50 worth of dagaz hands and possibly also dial (but only 32mm compared to 39mm Rolex)

High-Level Classy Automatics $600-$1k (all ETA movements)

Precista PRS-20 $580 is a good value Panerai Radiomir homage [Timefactors]

Certina DS-1 Powermatic 80 (ie 3 hands) $655 [Amazon]

Stowa Antea $850 beautiful Bauhaus [StowaShop], Stowa Chronograph $1500 [StowaShop]

Divers

Squale 50 ATMOS (500m) Shiny and beautiful, coin edge bezel $830 [GnomonWatches]

Longines Hydroconquest (diver) $1k Modern submariner, 80 years of horse racing history [eBay, Amazon]

Christopher Ward C65 ~$750 tad expensive [CW] and Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro (semi Omega Seamaster homage) $850 [CW] – Could get a blue wave dial like the classic discontinued Seamaster

Certina DS Action Diver $700 (Note: little hard to find even though big brand in Swatch group) [eBay]

Mido Multifort $800 [eBay, Amazon Multiforts], or Mido All Dial $800 [eBay, Amazon All Dial], or Mido Baroncelli Chronograph [eBay, Amazon]

Beautiful but Slightly Overpriced $500-$2k

Magrette Regattare $545 beautiful but Miyota movement [Magrette] or Vantage Bronze [Magrette]

Halios unique divers made by a small Canadian company, beautiful but Miyota movement like Magrette, but I’d be more inclined to get a [Halios]. Delfin and Tropik SS models unavailable. Order with metal bracelet.

MKII [MKIIWatches] great but $800+ (and the Vantage or Kingston are no longer for sale)

Prometheus [PrometheusWatch] (not sure of quality, and overpriced even with lower quality seagull/sellita movements, Baiji and CR1 models look good though)

Seiko Prospex Marine Master Professional 300m Diver SBDX001 or SBDX017 (MM300) the ultimate diver $1800, with a movement at in-house Swiss movements / Grand Seiko level. Might be too high profile to fit under dress shirts. [Amazon, eBay]

Junghans Max Bill Automatic (classic Bauhaus, but plexiglass, $850, $1800 for chronograph “Chronoscope”) [eBay]

Longines Column Wheel Chronograph L688 (inhouse) movement [eBay]

Other Value In-house Movement Watches: Nomos, vintage Rolex Datejust II (bigger than Datejust I) / Rolex Oyster Perpetual Airking, vintage hand wind Hamilton 770

Popular but Not My Style

Oris (ie Aquis Date $1k) and Glycine $800+ both widely known to be great quality/resale value, but I don’t find their lower-end watches awe-inspiring. Oris uses Sellita movements (just as good as ETA). Glycine Stratoforte chronograph is discontinued. [eBay]

Sinn ie 556 $1.1k [SinnWatches]. This is unpopular opinion but Sinn (reminiscent of IWC), is very simple style at high price point, even if it looks super clean.

Citizen BN0000 (solar eco-drive) $200 [Amazon]. Solid quality and great value but cartoonish bezel numbering.

Citizen Ecozilla BJ8050 $200 (Solar) [Amazon, eBay] (a classic, big, similar size to Seiko Tunacan, however you need $70 adapters to switch the strap out). Big and ugly looking.

Android (Seiko or Sea-gull or Miyota ~$200 is well priced but ETA expensive at $600+). Larger watches and lots of colorful styles, albeit non-classic. [Amazon, Amazon miyota, eBay], ie Divemaster 200, Octopus, Mechanical Chrono

GMT/World Time Watches

Citizen AT9010-52E [Amazon]

Steinhart GMT-Ocean 1 Black (Rolex GMT Master II homage) [Steinhart], Steinhart Vintage GMT $440 [Steinhart]

Citizen Skyhawk A-T [Amazon BL5400-52A Silver/White, Blue Angels World A-T, Other Promaster Sky eBay]

Orient Worldtimer $300-$500 Automatic [eBay, Amazon All Models]. Orient Star GMT (Star Seeker) would be another one.

Holy Grail Watches $10k+

While personally not condoning these for most budgets (i.e. average / median income) the acquisition of “Holy Grail” iconic watches, and disagree with them being investments, as they get scratched up and lose value as daily wears, the below is a ranking of holy grails, for those who want iconic watches and not their homages. A preference would be towards gold (if available for the model), as even though they get scratched more easily, there is value in the metal, not to mention the classic styling.

Rolex Daytona is the top holy grail

is the top holy grail Omega Speedmaster

Fluted Rolex Day-Date or Datejust with diamond markers

Omega Seamaster (wavy dial discontinued)

Breitling Navitimer.

Would not recommend: Rolex Submariner (too many great homages), Patek Phillippe (does not have as unique or flashy style for the $, Nautilus is sleek but doesn’t look special same as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak), Jaeger-LeCoultre (reverso is gimmicky), Cartier Tank (boring), Panerai Radiomir (boring), IWC (boring), Breguet Tourbillon (get the Perpetual).

Conclusions & Favorites

After all the watch styling, branding, and market pricing research, we have concluded: Watches aren’t investments because 1) scratches cause loss of value and 2) expensive timepieces entail high maintenance costs (ie $500 for a $10K Rolex). For best quality to value, go for automatic, don’t spend much more than $600 for an ETA Swiss or much more than $300 on a non-Swiss movement because one could get a decent-condition gold watch on eBay or a used high-end brand for $600, ie Omega (both of these options will better hold their value). If you plan to have only one, choose a versatile style (or have two: one professional and one casual). Regarding homages, buy only from a quality company ie Steinhart (that looks a little different) instead of cheap Chinese copies that look the same as the real thing.

For ultra-budget class @$200: Orient Bambino ie $200 [Amazon], a Perpetual $200 [SC-01 or SC-02] (currently sold out), or the classic Seiko SKX007 $200 [Amazon] then add Super Oyster bracelet $80 (see above for sellers).

Orient Bambino ie $200 [Amazon], a Perpetual $200 [SC-01 or SC-02] (currently sold out), or the classic Seiko SKX007 $200 [Amazon] then add Super Oyster bracelet $80 (see above for sellers). For quality class @$400, SARB033 [Amazon, eBay], Steinhart Marine [Marine Chronometer II Roman], a Steinhart Ocean (Rolex submariner homages) ie Steinhart Ocean 1 Black $400 [SteinhartWatches] with Ceramic. For one-of-a-kind with high finish quality, you’ll have to go pricier such as the Squale 50 ATMOS Blue $830 [Squale] (beautiful sunburst color).

Watch Accessories

Best Watch Winder: WOLF Viceroy (2.7) Single $235 [Amazon], or Triple $750 [Amazon]. Only buy the Wolf brand, as cheaper ones are worthless. However, I’d say these are an optional luxury, as the only benefit is to have multiple automatic watches but not having to worry about setting their time when you switch them up.

Best Brands for Watch Straps / Bands / Bracelets

Nato vs Zulu: For straps / bands, recommend Nato type over Zulu, as Nato runs thinner, has a watch keeper strap, and thinner squared metal hoops instead of rounded. With its thick nature and more numerous hoops, Zulu looks more rugged than sporty.

Leather Strap Brands: Da Luca – highest quality leather (shell cordovan) but expensive $100+)

Nato / Zulu Strap Brands: [CheapestNatoStraps] (22 lug width)

Don’t get: Hadley Roma (doesn’t seem high quality)

Best Watch Spring Bar Tool for changing out bracelets/straps

Bergeon 6767-F Watch Spring Bar Tool (F-tool) $25 [Amazon], which is an F-tool is for metal bracelets. The Bergeon 6767-S (S-tool) [Amazon] is for leather and rubber straps (the F tool can too easy accidentally damage a leather strap because it is more fine). If you have watches with both bracelets and straps, you either need to purchase both tools or buy the other tip at $8-15. Bergeon (Swiss repair tools) is much better than the cheaper non-branded ones

Best Watch Repair Tool Kit

Best Value: Mannesmann M11760 $65 [Amazon]

Value Substitute: GTU 20 pcs $35 [Amazon]

Best Premium: Bergeon 7812 $275 (full set) [eBay], Bergeon 2819-08 $175 (just the wrench for removing casebacks) [Amazon], Bergeon 55-605 2868 Set of 5 Chrome Plated Brass Screwdrivers Watch Repair Kit (screwdrivers) $90 [Amazon]

Best Thread Locker Glue

In the case that the screw-in pins on your bracelet pop out, it is good to lock them in with Loctite Purple 222 glue $9 [Amazon]

Watch Buying Guide

Desirable Watch features:

Movement type – Watchphiles most recommend Automatic: no battery replacement required, seconds hand moves smoother (higher bpm – beats per minute), and holds value due to the craftsmanship and tradition of a complicated movement. Mechanicals are either Automatic (winded by wrist-movement) or Manual (winded manually) and charges last ~40 hours (recommended servicing every 5-10 years). Quartz is most accurate, powered by battery (lifetime ~2 years). Some quartzes self-recharge (hold ~6 months charge, lifetime ~10-20 years), ie Kinetic (Seiko) recharges with wrist movement but not recommended (battery weakens if let fully discharge), and Solar (Seiko Solar, Citizen Eco-Drive, Casio Tough Solar) recharges with light.

Automatic Movement brands – ETA (highest quality, Swiss-made – non-chronograph watches start at $400+ and ETA Valjoux chronographs start at $1k), Miyota (Japanese-made great/reliable with watches $250+), Seagull (okay quality Chinese, $100), followed by cheap unnamed Chinese movements ($50+). Some movements are made in-house, ie Seiko or top model Rolexes.

Hacking is a movement feature that stops the seconds hand for better time setting

Quality of the finish, Quality of [metal] bracelet. Bracelets usually worth more than a leather band/strap

Sapphire Crystal glass (scratch resistant and prettier than Mineral), Seiko uses Hardlex which is decent

Brand: Don’t buy a fashion-brand watch (ie Michael Kors, Kenneth Cole): usually quartz and overpriced for their contracted-out quality. Buy from a watch-maker for better quality/price and resale value.

Note: Take your time shopping as there are many styles and tastes change. For more “lifelike” pics, look them up on Google Images or Youtube. ~38mm size is more classic while 42mm+ is more sporty.

Watch Diagram:

Watch Straps/Bracelets:

Common Metal Bracelet Types: (there is also Mesh)