The most interesting California pinot noir producers today seem to continually push out toward the fringes. In that, they are following in the footsteps of Josh Jensen, the founder of the Calera Wine Company.

Back in the 1970s, Mr. Jensen, inspired by his passion for Burgundy, sought Burgundian sorts of limestone soils in which to plant pinot noir. His quest eventually pushed him to the Gabilan Mountains in San Benito County, well isolated from other vineyards, pinot noir or not. The great success of his wines over the 40 years since he planted his first vines has vindicated Mr. Jensen’s vision.

A thirst for great pinot noir has driven other growers to similarly remote areas. The most interesting areas for California pinot noir today include the Anderson Valley and points north in Mendocino County, the extreme western edges of the Sonoma coast, the craggy hillsides of the Santa Cruz Mountains and the Santa Rita Hills in the western limits of the Santa Ynez Valley in Santa Barbara County.

Though the most significant growth in the Santa Rita Hills has occurred over the last 10 to 15 years, it was also the site of one of Santa Barbara’s most important early plantings, the Sanford & Benedict Vineyard, established in the early 1970s. Back then, most of the pioneering work in Santa Barbara County took place in the Santa Ynez Valley to the east of U.S. Highway 101 and to the north, in the Santa Maria Valley, where Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat has set a consistent standard for well-balanced California pinot noir for more than 30 years.