At the same time, she said, the idea behind the word plays into something deeply American: “Our individualism. We want everything made special for us. Even when it comes to salad bars.”

Also, the word “sounds old-fashioned and traditional,” Ms. Tannen said, naming two qualities common to the hipsterish faith that earlier generations did things in a more natural, and so, more righteous, way.

“It’s part of the authenticity hoax,” Mr. Riccio said.

Along the way, the term’s meaning has become muddled. For a party hosted by the music public relations firm Shore Fire Media, the invitation advertised “bespoke cocktails.” But the drinks weren’t tailored to the individual. Guests could choose from several predetermined concoctions.

A popular new restaurant in the West Village, Bespoke Kitchen, may allow diners to choose their own protein and flavor profile (rich or light), but from there, the chef makes most of the decisions. Diners also have the option of leaving the composition of their meal entirely up to the chef — the exact opposite of a bespoke experience.

With so elastic a definition, it’s small wonder one British food blogger wryly identified Burger King as the first “bespoke” restaurant, because it has allowed special orders for decades. (“Hold the pickles, hold the lettuce,” went its jingle.)