Check out our collection of homebrew tips, tricks, money saving ideas, shortcuts and more. Got something to add to the list? Let us know! Submit your tip for consideration. If your tip makes it, we’ll always give you the credit!

Tip 1: Using Polypropylene Lab Bottles to Rehydrate Yeast

I use the pictured bottles – Bel-Art Precisionware Wide-Mouth 500ml (16oz) Autoclavable Polypropylene Bottles; Polypropylene Cap, 53mm Closure – via Amazon

Note: This tip involves handling hot items. Always use extreme caution when handling hot items to avoid being scalded.

In my opinion, Polypropylene is a good material for this. It is commonly used in lab bottles and has a higher heat resistance when compared to HDPE and LDPE.

The pictured bottle is what I personally use. There are lots of options out there.

Consult your yeast manufacturer for specific amounts, temperatures and timing recommendations.

Rehydrating Yeast Step by Step

Place the appropriate amount of water in the bottle. Some manufacturers recommend 10 grams of water per 1 gram of yeast. Most packets are 11 grams. That’s 110 grams.

Use an accurate gram scale to weigh the water. For a common measurement like 110 grams, I mark my bottle with a Sharpie so I can easily measure out rehydration water without needing to weigh every time.

Place the lid on top of the bottle. Important: Do not thread or tighten the lid! It will burst if you do that. You just want the lid setting loosely on top so that it can be sanitized by the steam.

Microwave until the water comes to a full boil.

Cooling to Temp, Slow Option: Let the bottle sit with cap loosened until it reaches proper hydration temperature.

Cooling to Temp, Quick Option: Very carefully tighten the cap down. Run cool water over the bottle to reach proper rehydration temp. This is going to be hot, be very careful! I use heat resistant gloves for this. The cooling will most likely cause the container to collapse on itself and could slightly misform it.

I use an Infrared thermometer to check temp as cooling commences. Note that I do not open the bottle to check temp. Just aim the IR thermometer at the mass of water inside the bottle. I’m usually aiming for around 95 deg F.

Sprinkle the dry yeast in the container and place the lid on back on the bottle. Let this sit for 10 to 15 minutes.

Gently swirl bottle to ensure the yeast is thoroughly mixed.

Pitch when you’re ready.

This method ensures a sanitary process. The initial container and water are sanitized and there is no touching of the water with thermometers or stirring devices.

You could use a similar method to produce yeast washing water.

Search Amazon for “Polypropylene Lab Bottles” – Some things to look for – proper temp ratings, use of food safe materials and microwaveable.

Search Amazon for “digital gram scale”

Search Amazon for “infrared thermometer”

Search Amazon for “heat resistant kitchen gloves”

Review: Hands On: American Weigh 100g x 0.01g Digital Scale

Related Categories: Yeast, Scales, Infrared Thermometers

Tip 2: Use Two Scales if You’re an All Grain Brewer

As all grain brewers we are generally weighing things in two categories. Moderately large amounts of things – like grain – and smaller amounts of things – like hops and water salts.

Although weighing both types of things involve a scale, they are really wildly different activities.

But Why?

I’ll take the Ultraship Ultra-55 [Hands On Review] as an example. That has been my go-to grain scale for years and years. It has a large 55 lb capacity, the tare feature and the face removes so that you can weigh large items (like buckets of grain) and still easily read the display.

The Ultraship Ultra-55 has a resolution of 2 grams when weighing up to 1 kg (about 2.2 lbs). From 2 lbs to 50 lbs it has a resolution of .5 oz. If we’re weighing 20 lbs of 2 row, this works great. If you’re 2 grams or a half an ounce off either way, it really doesn’t matter. How about hops? A 2 gram resolution would work in a pinch, but I don’t think most brewers would be happy with that. Weighing water salts are completely of the question with this sort of precision/resolution. But.. it’s a great grain scale.

Second example… American Weigh 100g x 0.01g Digital Scale [ Hands on Review ]. That scale has an outstanding 1/100th gram resolution. That’s great for weighing hops accurately AND weighing water salts. How about for your all grain grist bill? It should be awesome right? No. 100 grams equates to about .22 lbs.

The right tool for the job: As scale capacity goes up, resolution, precision and accuracy generally go down. Very accurate scales with higher capacities do exist, but they’re very expensive. If you’re looking for something like this or just want to see prices, try this search on Amazon. It searches “high capacity lab scale” in the Industrial & Scientific category sorting from high to low price.

Recommendation: Use one larger capacity scale for measuring grain. Important features to consider: Tare (allows you to subtract the weight of the container that’s being used), Pounds/Kilograms Display, Digital Readout, Either Auto Hold or a Removable Face (this allows you to weigh large objects like a bucket of grain. An AC Adapter is also nice to have. This Ultraship scale is what I use. I’ve used it for years and have been very happy with it. It features a removable face to easily weigh larger objects.

Recommendation: Use one smaller, more accurate scale for weighing hops, spices and water salts. Tare, Pounds/Kilograms and Digital Readout are important for this one. You’ll want something that measures to an accuracy of 1/10th of a gram. You’ll be using grams for water salts and you should consider using grams for hops. Consider the AWS-100

What about Extract Brewers?

If you’re an extract brewer or you can only keep one scale because of budget or space, look for something in the middle, something with an 11 to 15 lb capacity and a 1 gram resolution – something like this. You can use that to weigh out grain bills – you may need to split your grain bill up into a couple batches to get under the capacity and 1 gram will work for hops.

Tip 3: Homebrew CO2 Tank Tips – New or Used & Tank Size

Don’t buy a new CO2 tank unless you’re certain that you have a good local source that will refill tanks. It doesn’t make any sense to buy a shiny new tank and then swap it out for an old, janky tank right away. You’ve paid for a new tank and possibly paid for shipping it, only to swap it for a used one. Save your money and just go to the supplier where you’re going to be swapping it out and buy a good, used tank.

Get a big CO2 tank. At my supplier, it costs around $20 to swap out an empty 5 lb tank. It costs around $25 to swap out an empty 20 lb tank. It’s more than 3 times the cost to refill the smaller tank! This will pay for itself quickly both in time and money.

Search Amazon for “CO2 Tank”

Learn More… Top Post: CO2 Tank Tips – New or Used & Tank Size

Related Categories: Draft, CO2 Hardware, Tanks

Tip 4: Get your Propane Tank Refilled Instead of Swapping It

Most (maybe all?) propane tank swap services under fill. The tank holds 20 lbs, refill places commonly fill to 15 lbs. You’re only getting a 3/4 filled tank!

For me, refilling a tank to 20 lbs is actually less expensive than swapping it out. For the purpose of comparison, let’s say that refilling and swapping are the same… $20 to swap and $20 to refill. The fill costs you $1/lb. If you’re refilling with a vendor that fills to 15 lbs, you’re paying $1.33/lb or 33% more.

than swapping it out. For the purpose of comparison, let’s say that refilling and swapping are the same… $20 to swap and $20 to refill. The fill costs you $1/lb. If you’re refilling with a vendor that fills to 15 lbs, you’re paying $1.33/lb or 33% more. When you refill your tank – You’re, generally, saving money, You’re supporting a local business and saving yourself time because you don’t have to get propane as often.

Find a local provider that fills your tank all the way up. This is usually about the same price, supports local businesses and saves you time.

Bonus Tip: Extra tanks! I suggest having an extra tank (or two) of propane on hand. Running out of propane mid brew is a bummer. It is inconvenient and you can end up with a different beer than you intended because of the delay. This can also be a money saving thing too if you refiller charges by the tank. Since you don’t want to run out of propane on brew day, you may be more likely to swap or refill a tank that still have propane left in it.

Extra tanks! I suggest having an extra tank (or two) of propane on hand. Running out of propane mid brew is a bummer. It is inconvenient and you can end up with a different beer than you intended because of the delay. This can also be a money saving thing too if you refiller charges by the tank. Since you don’t want to run out of propane on brew day, you may be more likely to swap or refill a tank that still have propane left in it. Search Amazon for “Propane Tank”

Learn More… Top Post: Propane Tips – Refill vs Swaps and Extra Tanks

Tip 5: Use an Infrared Thermometer for Select Homebrewing Tasks

PIctured: Etekcity Lasergrip 774 Non-contact Digital Laser Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun -58℉~ 716℉ (-50℃ ~ 380℃), Yellow and Black – via Amazon

These (can be) inexpensive and give you a no-touch way to measure the temperature of something.

Since these are no touch, you can check the temp of yeast washing and yeast rehydration water and your starter wort without the risk of infection. I find mine particularly useful for rehydrating yeast (See Tip 1).

In my opinion, Infrared thermometers should not be considered a direct replacement for your standard thermometer. A quality IR thermometer will give you a close approximation of surface temperatures. In my experience steam seems to throw off readings.

Potential Uses Include: Contained yeast rehydration water, chilled wort or starter temperature, kegerator, fermenter or fermenation area and beer tasting samples.

Shop Around, Search Amazon for “Infrared Thermometer”

Related Categories: Thermometers, Infrared Thermometers

Tip 6: Checking for Draft System CO2 Leaks – the Pressure Gauge Method

This tip is a supplement to the standard “spray everything with Star San and look for bubbles technique”

Charge your keg with CO2 as usual. Use your usual serving pressure. Over-pressurizing can mask leaks that may otherwise show themselves.

Remove the CO2 line and replace with a pressure gauge or Spunding Valve – with the adjustable PRV set to a very high pressure so that not gas escapes.

After the pressure has stabilized. I mark the current pressure with a wax pencil, or you can just remember what it reads

Wait for a couple hours to overnight to see if the gauge drops.

If it drops quickly, there is a leak someplace in the system. Note: If your keg has beer in it that is uncarbonated the pressure will drop some overnight (it is equalizing and carbonating the beer). What you don’t want is a quick drop in pressure.

This technique tests the entire keg including the gas post, o-ring, QD and any tubing that’s connected.

In my experience, over long periods of time there will be some slow gauge movement. I don’t know if these are micro leaks or temperature related, but I’m not really concerned with that, I am looking for a relatively quick drop in pressure. Something that shows up within a couple hours.

Search Amazon for “Chemical Resistant Spray Bottle”

Learn More… Top Post: Checking for Draft System CO2 Leaks – the Pressure Gauge Method

Related: Finding and Fixing Keg CO2 Leaks

Related Categories: Draft, CO2 Hardware

Tip 7: Use High Quality Pitchers on Brew Day and Beyond

Pictured: Rubbermaid Commercial Products Bouncer Measuring Cup, 4-Quart, Clear, FG321800CLR via Amazon – Hands On Review

I recommend keeping a couple high quality pitchers around to use for measuring, mash recirculation, utensil storage, water and wort transfer, help cleaning and sanitizing smaller items and more.

Why having quality pitchers is great… There are several equipment purchases that I look back on and say… I’m really glad I got that, it’s made a big difference. This pitcher, is one of those. I went from a mish-mash of too small plastic pitchers, found around the house, that bent under the weight of wort, dripped and leached who knows what into my beer to two of these babies! What a difference.

The FG321800CLR is designed for food service, food safe, high temp capable – up to 212 deg F, has volume markers, has an easy to use handle and is sturdy.

Shop Around, Search Amazon for “4 quart measuring pitcher” – look for food safe materials and temperature ratings within your required range. Aluminum pitchers can work too, although a word of warning that Star San and aluminium do not place well together. Not a deal breaker, just something to keep in mind as you use your new pitcher.

Review: Hands On: Rubbermaid Commercial Product 1 Gallon Bouncer Pitcher

Related Categories: All Grain, Brew Day, Pitchers

Tip 8: Buy Keg O-Rings In Bulk

Tip 9: Get a Refractometer!

Pictured: Anpro Brix Refractometer for Homebrew, Beer Wort Refractometer Dual Scale Specific Gravity 1.000-1.120 and Automatic Temperature Compensation 0-32% via Amazon

If you haven’t realized it yet… hydrometers are made out of breakable glass that can… break. They also require a healthy sample size.

With a refractometer you need a sample size of just a couple drops. That’s a lot of saved beer compared to a hydrometer. So much so that a refractometer may very well pay for itself over time.

For me, getting a refractometer was one of those small, inexpensive upgrades that made a huge difference.

An quick estimation of unfermented wort gravity is easy to calculate. OG is around 4 times the Brix reading obtained from your refractometer. That becomes more and more inaccurate as gravities increase.

Refractometers can also be used to measure gravity throughout the fermentation process. Just plug your numbers into a calculator for correction after fermentation begins. See: Sean Terrill’s Refractometer Calculator

also be used to measure gravity throughout the fermentation process. Just plug your numbers into a calculator for correction after fermentation begins. See: Sean Terrill’s Refractometer Calculator If you have a refractometer AND a hydrometer you can estimate ABV without a starting gravity. See Tip 10 for more information on that.

Some shopping tips… Look for a dual scale (Brix and Gravity) model. ATC/Automatic Temperature Correction is another important feature. That automatically accounts for changes due to temperature within a certain range.

There are many offerings and they can change quickly. Shop Around, Search Amazon for “dual scale refractometer” to compare prices and see what models are currently available.

and they can change quickly. Shop Around, Search Amazon for “dual scale refractometer” to compare prices and see what models are currently available. If you have a higher budget, consider a digital model. Generally speaking, those are not available with dual scale capabilities, but you get a digital readout of gravity readings. That’s a nice feature. Shop Around, Search Amazon for “digital brix refractometer” to compare prices and see what models are currently available.

Related Categories: Fermentation, Refractometers

Tip 10: Estimate ABV Without a Starting Original Gravity

Forgot to take an original gravity and still want an estimate of ABV? No problem. You’ll need a refractometer and a hydrometer.

Take careful measurements with each. Thoroughly de-gas the sample to get a more accurate reading.

Run those numbers through this equation. SG is the gravity reading obtained from the hydrometer, Brix is the reading obtained from the refractometer. ABV = [277.8851 – 277.4(SG) + 0.9956(Brix) + 0.00523(Brix2) + 0.000013(Brix3)] x (SG/0.79).

This is a great reason to get a refractometer. There are many offerings and they can change quickly. Shop Around, Search Amazon for “dual scale refractometer” to compare prices and see what models are currently available.

More reasons to get a refractometer! See Tip 9.

Thanks to BYO for this formula. Not a subscriber? Subscribe to BYO

Related Categories: Fermentation, Refractometers

Tip 11: Easiest Way to Seal Mylar Bags using a FoodSaver-type Vacuum Sealers

Why Mylar?

Mylar bags block oxygen and are a great way to store hops and other oxygen sensitive materials. As a testament to this, many hop distributors and sellers distribute hops in Mylar type bags. Sometimes those are vacuum sealed and sometimes they are nitrogen flushed.

Mylar bags are not generally expensive, so that’s great! The problem is vacuum sealers that can seal Mylar bags ARE expensive. Sometimes very expensive. That’s not great!

The “nested” method in action via Hands on Review: FoodSaver V2244 Vacuum Sealer

The “Nested” Method for Sealing Mylar Bags

Tip 12: Second Easiest Way to Seal Mylar Bags using a FoodSaver-type Vacuum Sealers

The “Snorkel” Method for Sealing Mylar Bags

Cut a 1″ strip off the top of a vacuum bag.

Fill the Mylar bag with hops or whatever you’re going to store.

Insert the 1″ strip into the filled bag so that the strip sticks out of the Mylar bag.

Trim the end of this strip so that about 1/2″ is sticking out of the Mylar bag.

Insert the top of the Mylar bag into the vacuum sealer bag, ensuring that the 1″ strip of vacuum bag is sticking slightly out of the top of the Mylar bag. This acts as a channel.

Vacuum and Seal.

Because Mylar bags can be thicker that standard vacuum sealer bags, you may need to double seal the top with your vacuum sealer’s heat strip.

Trim the excess vacuum bag strip.

Trick Required: There is a trick here. Notice I didn’t say FoodSaver bag. I, initially, tried this with a FoodSaver bag and it wouldn’t seal correctly. FoodSaver bags are a bit thicker than most others on the market. Look for a thinner style bag to try with this technique.

See Tip 11 for another method

In my opinion, this is the second easiest way to seal a Mylar Bag using a traditional type vacuum sealer.

Shop Around, Search Amazon for “mylar bags for food storage”

Shop Around, Search Amazon for “vacuum sealer bags”

Review: Hands on Review: FoodSaver V2244 Vacuum Sealer

Top Post: Vacuum Sealing Mylar Bags Using Traditional Vacuum Sealers

Related Categories: FoodSaver, Vacuum Sealing, Hops

Tip 13: Make a CO2 “Utility” Line

This easy project adds a lot of flexibility to your draft system with minimal cost

Top Post: Making a Utility CO2 Line Using Luer Lock Disconnects

Related Categories: Draft, Disconnects

Tip 14: Use The “Spray Bottle Method” to Apply Star San

Tip 15: Dissolving DME More Easily – Cool or Hot Water?

Tip 16: Use Metric for Hops, Water Salts and Yeast Starters

Grams are much easier and more accurate for measuring hops and water salts.

Of course, grams aren’t technically more accurate, a weight is a weight. What I’m saying is they are practically more accurate. For example 14 grams is .493835 ounces. If you have 6 digit precision when using ounces on your scale, whammo, it doesn’t matter much, but a gram scale with 1 digit precision (Example 14.1 grams) is a lot easier to come by and gets you really close with fewer digits to concern yourself with.

A starter is also easier in metric. Water to DME ratio is always 10 to 1. 1,000 mL (1 L) to 100 grams of DME. Example – Need to make a 1.5 L Starter? You need 150 grams of DME.

Search Amazon for “Digital Gram Scale”

Resource Post: Yeast Starters & Fermentation

Related Categories: Hops, Yeast, Yeast Starters, Fermentation

Tip 17: Cut pH Strips in Half and Save 50%

Tip 18: Saving Dry Yeast With a Vacuum Sealer!

US-05 image courtesy of MoreBeer’s Safale US-05 Offering

Of course you can vacuum seal hops, smaller amounts of grain and other brewing ingredients using your vacuum sealer. Using this technique you can also save partial packets of unused dry yeast!

Determine the proper amount of yeast using a pitching rate calculator. If you don’t have a pitching rate calculator, sign up for a free non-expiring Brewfather trial account.

Prepare the proper amount of re-hydration water. Generally, you’ll prepare 10 grams of water for every one gram of yeast needed, but consult manufacturer’s directions.

Put the prepared rehydration water on an accurate gram scale – I use the AWS-100 from American Weigh [Hands on Review]. Make sure the scale has a “tare” feature or otherwise account for the weight of the container and water.

Zero the scale out using the tare feature.

Cut the yeast packet open and slowly pour the yeast into the rehydration water. Careful, there’s no going back if you pour too much. 🙂

When I get the amount of yeast I’m looking for, I immediately seal the yeast packet (if it’s a mylar type material) using the heat strip sealer on my vacuum sealer.

I write the amount of remaining yeast on the packet using a Sharpie and then seal that in vacuum bag for additional protection.

This is quick and easy, reduces waste and saves money.

Gear, Supplies and Related Resources

Tip 19: Repair Cornelius Keg Handles and Bases.

Thank you to Facebook Friend Jason for this technique!

Tip 20: Filling a quick bottle or growler from your kegerator faucet

Tip 21: Tubing Tips