The article proposes to show that cheap new bikes are poor value, a false economy, not fit for use & damaging to the environment. After reading through it hopefully you will understand and agree with this proposal and can then make a more informed purchase. Throughout this article this type of bike will be referred to as BSOs - Bicycle Shaped Objects.

I am a bicycle mechanic of 20 years experience. I run a local business that services and repairs all types of bikes (including BSOs). There is no hidden agenda behind writing this. I'm not trying to persuade you to buy a bike from me, as we don't sell bikes. I want to try and make a contribution as I'm seeing more and more people buying these bikes and then discovering that they are useless for any purpose except landfill.

Before we get into bikes themselves, some thoughts and an anecdote:

A truly global economy; the Internet, supermarkets - great aren't they? Delivering better value, lower cost products through increased competition, innovation and efficiency. Enabling the savings to be passed directly on to us, the consumer.

I bought a brand new cordless kettle a few months ago for less than a tenner. Bargain. It's here in the corner of the workshop being used every day. No complaints, it's working perfectly. But then, it's a kettle. It boils water. It has one moving part (the switch), casing and a filament. I don't take it out in all weathers, bounce it around, use it to transport me and other goods, leave it locked up in various locations and expect it to stop in a hurry if a washing machine suddenly pulls out in front of me. A little flippant maybe, but there is a serious point.

Last summer we had a booking from a guy who'd bought a bike on the internet that had come in a box and that he was having some trouble with. I went round to pick it up and knocked on the door. He answered and wheeled out this 'bike' - it was stunningly bad, a brand new cheap suspension bike. It was possibly the heaviest clunkiest, badly built bike I'd ever seen. The components were cheap and nasty, the frame made from huge heavy lumps of metal poorly welded together. It was a tank. Yet he looked at me and said "yeah got it off the internet, only a hundred and twenty quid. Went to a few bike shops but you wouldn't get anything like this for that cost". I was dumbfounded. To this guy, the bike shops were making loads of profit by ripping people off, whereas he'd got a great deal online. The opposite could not have been truer. Ask yourself which is more likely to sell a quality, reliable, well set-up bike: A local bike shop that you could take it straight back to if you were dissatisfied in any way or a business with a web site as the middle man and hundreds of miles between you and them? Don't get me wrong, you can buy excellent value quality bikes online and some bike shops can rip you off. But you cannot buy a new bike of any quality for silly money. You get what you pay for.

A bike is not a simple toy. It is a means of transportation, a complex piece of machinery that has evolved over a hundred years. Today there are many types of bikes to suit all users and all purposes. A basic geared bike with no accessories consists of over a thousand pieces. As well as the frame and forks amongst the parts going into our bike are the stem, handlebars, wheels, tyres, inner tubes, rim tapes, brake levers, shifters, grips, cables, headset, bottom bracket, chainset, cranks, pedals, sprockets, derailleurs (front and rear), chain, brake arms and springs, brake pads, saddle, seat post (and clamp) and more. Some of these parts are in turn made from many other smaller parts, and this is just for a basic bike.

Let's consider just one of these for a moment: the bicycle wheel. What an incredible invention. Light, strong and versatile. A wheel consists of a hub (made from many smaller parts, see the image), a number of spokes, nipples (these screw onto the ends of the spokes) and a rim. The hub needs to be correctly set up so that the axle rotates smoothly within the hub shell with no play and minimum resistance. Spokes need to be correctly tensioned so that the rim spins round in a straight line with no 'bumps' or 'hops'. Additionally a rear wheel needs to be 'dished' to compensate for the sprockets on the right hand side of the hub. If the wheel doesn't run true the brakes can't work effectively and the bike won't ride well. And this is just one wheel, one piece of the final jigsaw. A bike is a complicated piece of equipment. So for those of you that might need the point clarified; a bike must to be built well in order to run well. The parts need to be correctly assembled, bearings greased, components aligned, bolts correctly tightened, cables tensioned, braking and gearing systems correctly set up, etc. This is a skilled process.

Add shipping, advertising, profit(!) and all the other activities involved in running a business and you finally get to the cost of the end product.

Considering the description of what goes into a bike, how is it possible for them to be retailed for £69, £99 etc by supermarkets, catalogue stores and on the internet? Through savings achieved from modern manufacturing methods? Computerized stock control? Reduction of costs through retailing online? No. All these are already factored into the very competitive costs of decent quality bikes. Those prices are achieved through cuts in quality at every stage of component manufacture and subsequent bike build. The resulting bike is good for nothing and can be a dangerous death trap.

18 months ago I went round to pick up a young guy's bike. He'd bought it from a well known high street catalogue store for a hundred pounds or so. It had been marketed as having been reduced from £150, or maybe even as half price (another common trick). Just a few months old, it was already coming apart. He'd contacted the warranty department of this store and had been told to get it repaired and send them the bill. We repaired it (it needed a new wheel amongst other things) and returned it to him, pointing out the poor quality components throughout. Six months later he called again. It turned out the store had refused to refund him the repair bill (citing wear and tear or normal servicing needs if I remember correctly) and now he had further problems. Having already spent money on the bike he was reluctant to write it off. It was hard to believe it was only a year old; rust spots were plentiful and spreading, cheap chrome plating was peeling away in places, the poor quality suspension forks dead - it was a sorry state. But we fixed it up and took it back. After taking it back he said with a rueful expression - "I thought I was getting a bargain originally, but for what I've now spent I could have got a decent bike to start with". A harsh lesson, but further proof that you really do get what you pay for.

Now I can just hear the cynics out there thinking that I'm some sort of bike part purist. If it's not the latest top of the range, titanium coated, computer engineered, space tested, turboflipZX derailleur, then it's rubbish. Not so, though some of my customers are like that. You can get good quality bike parts for very reasonable prices, but when you scrape the bottom of the barrel you will get rubbish. Here are examples of some of the faults I have witnessed with BSOs:

Often when you buy a BSO you get it in a box. Apparently all that's needed is to unpack it, pump up the tyres, fit the pedals, make a few adjustments and you're away… hilarious. And what do they give you to do this? Da da! Yes, a strange shaped soft piece of metal with a lot of irregular shaped holes in it. Finally you get this heap of junk into a semi rideable state and what does it feel like? Terrible. You ride it down the road and it's heavy, clunky and unresponsive. The braking is poor and uneven. The gear shifting is a joke. Where is the pleasure in riding a bike like this?

Suspension deserves a section of its own. Suspension in bikes - what a fabulous invention. You can get fixed frame bikes with a suspension fork known as 'hardtails' or bikes with both suspension forks and a variety of methods of having suspension in the frame known as 'full suspension' bikes or 'full-sussers'. The Mountain Bike came along in the 1980s and in many ways revolutionised cycling. A suspension bike is more complicated than its non-suspension sibling. A standard bike is designed to run along a continuous rolling surface, a road or track. A suspension bike is designed for throwing around, riding down the side of a mountain, off ledges, down jumps, across rocks, rough ground and many other surfaces. So guess what? If it's going to be able to take this sort of abuse and still work then it needs to have well made, good quality components or it will just fall apart. Cheap bikes are bad enough but cheap suspension bikes - please! Consider this: cheap bikes have poor quality wheels. For suspension to absorb the shock of riding a bike on an uneven surface these bumps must be transferred through the wheels into the shocks - but cheap wheels are not up to this, they just buckle and go out of shape. A susser frame has moving parts, a standard bike frame does not. Moving parts require maintenance and can go wrong, seize, break. Cheap moving parts don't last. I see suspension BSOs all the time, they don't last 5 minutes. If you want to get into mountain biking (and what a great thing to get into) you need to be prepared to spend a decent amount of money to buy a bike that is up to the task. If you want suspension for riding on the road think about a suspension seat post, a simple invention that can be a real bonus.

Modern manufacturing methods have enabled a relative reduction of the price of many consumer goods. The bicycle is not exempt from this. For £300+ you can choose from a range of well-built bikes utilising quality components for almost any purpose. £300 is not expensive. Look at the following table. For further information and sources see end of article.

Today it takes less than an average week's wage to buy a good quality bicycle. Fifty years ago it took nearly a month. And the bike you'd buy today would be a far superior, more comfortable and responsive ride than its counterpart of yesteryear. You can sometimes get reasonable bikes for even less.

Still not convinced? You still want to buy a BSO for £99? Believe me, it will not last. If you get two years out of it (no chance) that works out at £50 a year for a heavy, clunky, unresponsive ride. The £400 bike will last at least ten years. That's £40 a year for something that's a real pleasure to ride. See where I'm coming from?

By riding a bike you can pat yourself on the back for a number of reasons. Every journey you make is having a direct beneficial impact on the environment. A human on a bicycle is the most fuel-efficient system on the planet. By keeping yourself fit, you're reducing your demands on society as a whole and the health service in particular. People who cycle live longer, happier, more satisfied and better fulfilled lives. Well done. Just one thing though. It takes environmental resources to create the metal and parts for a bike, build that bike and then ship it round the world (nearly all new bikes are built in Asia). BSOs are just landfill waiting to happen. Are you willing to buy a new BSO each time the last BSO gives out on you and isn't worth repairing? Nice one. Some environmentalist. A good bike will pretty much last forever with regular maintenance.

Someone once said to me "why should I get my bike repaired when I can buy a new one for £xx. At that price I can buy a new one each year". So we've reached the era of the disposable bike. One of the most environmentally beneficial inventions of all time has become a source of waste and pollution, part of the throw away disposable culture. Incredible.

Well we've got to the end. Congratulations on getting here. Don't buy a cheap and nasty new bike, it's not good for you or the environment. The only beneficiary is the profits of the short sighted business selling it. If you want to buy a new bike don't short change yourself. Buy a decent bike for a few hundred pounds, A good bike could give you ten years of pleasure with maintenance. £30-50 a year doesn't seem excessive to me. So when you're sailing along one day making silky smooth gear changes, with the wind rushing through your hair and a responsive steed between you and the ground, remember this article and think. 'You know, that guy was right'.

Average wage figures - thanks to Richard Hughes at the Office for National Statistics.

Price of a reasonable bike - Figures deduced from a variety of sources. Including Vintage Catalogues at Sheldon Brown and a 1981 Report by the Competition Commission

Also thanks to contributors to the BikeBiz industry bulletin board for invaluable assistance.

This article represents the authors opinions only.

Feedback on this article.

Karl T - June 22, 2020

Great article, completely agree. I've been lucky enough to have grown up with bike racing so never had any BSO. I never had an expensive bike until recently but always good solid steel bikes. I see beautiful vintage bikes for sale now and find it hard to believe they go for less than a â‚¬100 at times. If I had a low budget I'd go for a vintage steel over a new bike every time.

warren adams - June 8, 2020

I couldn't agree more. I'm a mobile bicycle mechanic in Poole (Dorset) and I see some horrific bikes that I have to "wave my magic wand" at to revive them. I like your Website too and your ethos. All the best ! Warren

Nelly - January 4, 2020

I could not agree more with this article. I am in the painful process of accepting that my 11 year old son cannot appreciate the quality of the 1995 Marin Pine Mountain I built up for him, and desperately desires a Halfords Carrera sh@tebox like his schoolmates have. One of his friends brought his above mentioned bike with him to our house recently, as they came into the house my son asked â€˜Dad could you have a quick look at Nickâ€™s bike, the wheel fell off when he went down the kerb and now itâ€™s making a noiseâ€™ They had replaced the wheel back to front (cable disc brake, mind..) and now the disc was bent over against the inside of the fork stanchion, and merrily chewing a groove in same. I straightened the disc and replaced the wheel, and thought Iâ€™d give the bike a check over... Almost every fastener I tried was barely more than hand-tight.... The thing weighed a ton, the suspension was awful and weeping, and both wheels were out of true. It was very clean tho, bar a lot of peeling stickers and rusting components, so I assumed they at least washed it.. I asked how long heâ€™d had the bike. Heâ€™d got it new for his birthday.... the week before.. Besides the quality and weight, it was a truly ugly machine, but then I am out of fashion; I have only bought one brand new bike in my life, a new Raleigh Heritage Super-Tuff Burner, which is better built than the original I had as a tween in the mid eighties, but not quite as nicely specâ€™d. Still love it tho.. I own, ride and maintain many nineties Marin bikes, I am lucky in that I have enough garage space to keep them. There really is nothing like a reasonably high-spec mid-nineties mountain bike for looks, rideability, frame and component quality and longevity. I have covered many thousands of miles on Claud Butler, Marin and Raleigh bikes and loved every minute. Such a tactile and satisfying experience, and all for between Â£25 and Â£100 a time. This enables me to have examples of road, BMX, rigid, Hardtail and full suss available, and the decent quality (mainly Shimano STX/LX/XT etc) parts are readily available on eBay for peanuts. I have rescued, gently refurbed and given away to family/friends several of these bikes, and in every case the feedback has been â€˜what a wonderful machine, canâ€™t believe itâ€™s so old and rides so nicelyâ€™ eBay, gumtree, boot/yard/garage sale, even the local tip sometimes. These bikes and their ilk are easy enough to find, and have been the best money I ever spent. BSOâ€™s be damned!

James Robertson - November 24, 2019

Great article and I wish the writer had a repair shop in Hackney. I love his honesty and rationality. 10-15 years ago I bought a Ridgeback hybrid from a small shop. It was the "spend Â£50 more than the cheapest Ridgeback in the shop because the components are better" option. I am happy to spend around Â£75 today replacing the lost or stolen back wheel because the waste of chucking a working bike for the sake of a wheel is wrong.

Stephan - November 12, 2019

Great article. Fully truth. I removed fancy kids bike because the brakes did not work and possibly never worked used by kids. I do not want to count the time I spent repairing BSOs and fixing leaked tyres. A waste of time.

Trevor Arnold - October 13, 2019

Interesting article and thanks for posting. It costs Â£100 per month to park a car at my local railway station for a 45 minute journey into London. Bikes get stolen or damaged at the station from time to time so from that perspective having a nail to leave at the station isnâ€™t a bad option.

Nat - July 26, 2019

While I agree with the article that BSO's are generally bad, particularly for children as they often weigh too much, I do think the general public's acceptance of the BSO market is inevitable when independent bike shops are often so elitist. The secondhand market is great if you can afford the cost of bike tools, replacement parts and spray paint (because we all like a new looking bike) and you have the knowhow (although youtube helps). With one or two exceptions, I've taken secondhand or older bikes into independent shops many times only to be told they aren't worth fixing. I once took my very reliable 10yr old Giant XTC into a local specialist mtb shop for a disc brake repair, they kept it 3 days and then rang me to say it wasnt worth fixing unless I could afford Â£500 or I could trade it in for a new bike. I went to pick it up and they tried charging me Â£100 for their time even though they'd done nothing. I refused, walked out with my bike and took it to another independent, but low end bikeshop at the other end of the street that mainly sell BSOs but are very good with repairs. They fixed the problem for Â£12. I've also upgraded a few low end BSO-ish bikes with the help of this shop.

Kirstine Mcgugan - July 7, 2019

Yes totally agree bought my daughter a cheap bike from high st Sports shop several years ago and is a heap of junk .Not only are the parts rubbish but also the sizing .When sat on the bike for some reason the whole feel of the bike felt wrong. We used to go bike runs and she couldn't keep up on it and problems with the chain from day one..It was bought to replace a smaller kiddies bike and she had no problems keeping up behind me. On another note this may be a contradiction. My old faithful bike is now into its 25th year.. Bought it from my catalogue in 1993-94 costing Â£270..ok catalogues always add a bit on. But have read that Lew-ways were cheaper end of the bike market. This old relic of mine has been well used and I feel far better quality of bike than any I've bought since for my son and daughter over the years..Actually bought it when my son was coming 2..hes turning 28...only ever had a new wheel. Currently just giving the front forks a sand down and spray paint as a couple of winters ago they were kept outside covered but rain caused a bit of rust...but other than that this bike has been brilliant.. Maybe one day I'll invest in a new one..but dont feel the need.

Alan from Ratso Restorations - July 4, 2019

As someone who restores classic cycle parts I couldn`t agree more with your comments about BSO`s. The number of times someone will say to me how come you charge as much as Â£100 for a pair of rebuilt wheels when I can by a bike for that? The answer is fairly simple-those carefully rebuilt classic wheels will still be rolling in 20 years time whereas your Â£100 bike will either fall apart after a few miles or is so heavy that you will get fed up of riding it and it will end up in the shed never to be seen again! (My next door neighbours did exactly this - they bought 3x cheap new bikes knowing I could sell them rebuilt classic bikes and I have seen those bikes out once in 5 years (too heavy to ride they said-sigh). Anyhow nice article folks - keep up the good work!

Jason - July 3, 2019

I bought a "chicken chaser" second hand from a lady up the road for Â£30. It's a Raleigh Collette with 3-speed hub gears. It was enough to get me riding again after 25+ years out of the saddle. I think that even such a bike is a better bet than a BSO for that purpose. Now I am saving for something decent.

Ben - June 26, 2019

This article is true - cheap, new bikes are not really worth buying. However, you haven't mentioned the best option for cyclists on a budget - second-hand bikes. I have a 1982 Raleigh Clubman (road bike) which I got in 2010 for Â£100. I still use it today for getting around. Yes I've had to replace a couple of things. Both tyres were poor quality and burst at the sidewall after only a few months of use - I replaced the rear in an emergency for Â£30 (it's a good Conti tyre though) and the front with a Â£10 Schwalbe from Chain Reaction Cycles. Both have lasted for 8/9 years at this point so you could easily go with two Â£10 tyres. Also the rear derailleur smashed itself to bits, I think maybe from going too far into the spokes (you would have thought the bike shop that built this bike up would have adjusted the high/low crews properly, but hey ho) so I got a brand new Sora rear mech for Â£20 (you could easily get a second hand one for less on eBay though). Also I replaced the seat post for a higher saddle height with a Â£20 from a bike shop (but again these are cheaper online - there's a Ritchey one on Wiggle for just Â£10, and again, second hand ones would likely be cheaper). Also I recently replaced all four brake blocks for just Â£4 - and this is after 9 years of use. Also I replaced the left pedal recently because the old one sheared off (again after nearly 9 years of use - and it was clearly an old pedal) with one from a pair that was just Â£5 (might not last long but it looks relatively solid and it works for the moment). Also had to buy a new chain recently for Â£10 but that was my own fault - there was nothing wrong with the old chain until I managed to destroy it by using a chain tool incorrectly on it. So I've spent around Â£200 total on this bike over nearly 10 years of using it, and I could have got a couple things cheaper if I had got them from the internet, particularly second hand. So I would definitely recommend a second hand decent quality bike if you just want something for getting around town / around a city / to the pub. Especially if you're in a city, you don't want an expensive bike or it'll just get nicked - even the toughest locks can be defeated with a portable angle grinder, which some thieves do use. Old '80s road bikes from Raleigh, Peugeot, Dawes, brands like that, can usually be had for Â£100 (sometimes a little less, sometimes a little more) on eBay or Gumtree. Make sure everything works obviously - make sure there's no cracks in the frame, make sure the wheels are pretty true (not bent), make sure the gears work, make sure the brakes work. Yeah, there's the chance you could come across a real lemon, but a lot of these bikes will still be in good nick. Get a friend who knows a bit about bikes to come along and check out the bike with you if you're unsure. And hell, you can get even cheaper second hand bikes if you want - chicken chasers with just a couple of gears. They won't be suitable for big hills but they'll get you to the pub in a town or city.

Nev - June 25, 2019

Great article. Cheap bikes. Low cost production. High profit for online merchant. Landfill or dumped on the roadside. Transported right around the world adding to global emissions. Quality is worth the expense. Local bike shop gives good advice, allows you to familiarise with the bike. Had a bike ordered through a local bike shop from the manufacturer. Boxed and delivered from Germany. Ran superbly for 6 years with no adjustment. Quality!

Peter - June 22, 2019

This article is spot on, youâ€™ll always get people who just want a cheap bike as a means of transport, to get to work and back, fair enough get a cheap bike, but if you actually want to go out and enjoy cycling as a hobby get a good bike. A cheap BSO is only really any good when your starting out, to dip your toe in the water of cycling, if you like it you can always upgrade at a later stage, everyone who is happy with their cheap BSO should ride on a good brand well set up bike, it will be like night and day. If your thinking of buying a BSO then stop, go on eBay or gumtree and look at what you can get secondhand for the same or a little more money, youâ€™ll be surprised, I purchased a Kona Blast Deluxe, has Rock Shox front suspension, Shimano hydraulic disc brakes, great condition for Â£50, all that was wrong was the pedal thread had stripped in one of the crank arms, I found a secondhand pair on eBay for Â£17, Iâ€™ve serviced it, new chain, new stainless gear cables, probably holds me Â£100 all in, it is a hoot to cycle. My first ever mountain bike when I was 16 was an Apollo, it did the job, wasnâ€™t exciting to ride, deserved better so I upgraded to a Cannondale, I still have it more then 20 odd years on and it still looks and rides as sweet as the first day I got it.

Andrew Mitchell - June 10, 2019

Very good article. My daily ride is a Claud Butler Legend I've had since new in about 1992. As with another comment, the only original parts left are the frame and forks. I've also had a series of secondhand BSO mountain bikes as backups in the meantime, in contrast to the Claud Butler they're a nightmare to maintain, especially the "indexed" gears, and really heavy. The most worrying bike I've come across was a BMX that was a donor for a reverse-steering bike I was building, when I sawed through the frame, the metal was wafer thin. When considering what abuse these bikes get, that was worrying! In contrast at least the low end but not ridiculously cheap BMX bikes are often very heavily built to provide some strength!

Harry Wood - May 30, 2019

So true. The bicycle I ride today is the first and only one I have ever bought: a Ridgeback 602SIS LX, for Â£420 in 1989. Yes, THIRTY years ago! With its chromo frame, it is as light as my friend's new aluminium bike. It still looks good and handles very well. With proper maintenance, it will just keep going. Last year I performed its first major service: a new cassette and headset, its third ever chain, along with new ball bearings throughout and new pads. It rides like new, and almost looks new. The parts are mostly alloy so haven't rusted. Took it round the Lake District last year on a camping trip, retracing the route I took in 1995 on graduating. What a joy.

DangerousBob - May 29, 2019

Nice article! And wow, so many comments! I think many people don't quite get what the author meant by BSO. Either that or I've got it wrong too. It's not _necessarily_ the Â£120 bikes from Halfords/Decathlon, but rather the Â£80 no-name crap from Tesco or a high street discount store. For example, Halfords have an Apollo Slant for Â£117 that looks as though it wouldn't be a disaster -- steel frame, admittedly with cheap suspension forks, grip shifters, and plastic gear levers, but at least the drivetrain (and shifters) are Shimano. While I'd never recommend one to a friend, at least I'd be confident of setting it up to work reasonably well for short weekend rides. On the other hand, Halfords also have an Indi FS1 for Â£108. Full suspension and complete no-name drivetrain scream BSO. AVOID. Of course, that's assuming both are set up correctly and free of manufacturing defects. Which isn't a given. I think what's happened is that the bottom of the bike market is a lot lower that it was back in the late '80s, when I was growing up. Then, you'd get a "cheap" Raleigh or similar that generally had reliable components. And definitely no suspension! Probably costing around Â£100. Nowadays, you get all sort of cheap no-name components manufactured for pennies in China. Including bouncy front and rear suspension, of course. There's a whole new niche of BSOs out there that just didn't exist 20 or 30 years ago. Anyway, taking inflation into account, the equivalent of that Â£100 1988 Raleigh is probably something around Â£200 from the likes of Halfords...which'd get you a reasonable bike if you choose wisely, e.g. avoid the full-sussers! That said, in the UK at least, if you're spending Â£200 or less, secondhand is absolutely the way to go. I've just serviced a barely-used Claud Butler Urban 100 for a friend (who wants to start cycling after many years) that cost me Â£32 on eBay. It needs new tyres but everything else is fine -- it even had the calibration sticker still flapping around on its front derailleur! Thanks to the cycle to work scheme, eBay is full of Â£500+ bikes going for Â£150. If you can't service it yourself, pay a LBS to do it and you'll still have saved a packet.

Karlene Heath - May 5, 2019

My son bought a Claude Butler bike second hand for 50 quid. He had outgrown it. My son bought it with birthday money. Been perfect for years. Apparently British Eagles are made by the same company as Claude Butler and Dawes so does this mean the quality is equal? I bought one for my daughter's 7th birthday tomorrow.

Heather Jenkins - May 1, 2019

Well written article. I purchased a Python hybrid for myself a year ago; at nearly Â£300, I'm aware this puts me in the low end of high quality ranks. I'm happy with the bike, no issues yet, a smooth ride and a seemingly strong yet light aluminium frame. The last few weeks, I've been looking among 'quality' used bikes for my 12 year old son who I'm struggling to get out to do anything these days. So, yesterday I did the unforgivable and ordered the Apollo, Phaze from Halfords thinking that a shiny new bike might be an incentive over some slightly rusted better quality ones selling for Â£200 in my trusted local bike shop. It is Â£160 and most certainly is a BSO, but...I can afford it and it won't be used for proper mountain biking, I'm sure. Reading about bikes, you quickly become aware of the hierarchy and also the importance of better made components and suspension etc and it can scare some people off simply getting out and enjoying the wind in their hair and the many benefits of cycling. Yes, a bicycle is a complex piece of machinery and transport but there are different budgets out there and we shouldn't shame each other into spending Â£1000 for a midway quality bike. I'm seeing 13 year old boys leaving their Â£500 Cubes outside shops, unchained all the time...not necessarily in the best hands but they've no doubt pressured their parents into buying them decent bikes for all the wrong reasons? When my bright red, BSO arrives tomorrow (I might even tie a ribbon on it), I'll be perfectly aware it's not made to last and that I should have bought another Python, at least... but I think my 12 year old son will have fun using it when I coax him outdoors.

Marcus Alexander - April 26, 2019

Good article , I actually get attached to bike , I have a kona paddy wagon fixie paid about Â£500 for it six years ago , you coul dalos say the opposite , My kona is a racing bike and can fly a bit but also its a little bit tougher so you can ride it around normally and bump it abit , but its a joy to ride . unbelievably listening to Lance Armstrongs podcast, tour de france cyclists are amazed at the prices and bikes at the other end , as a man said hinccappie said "they cost more than the cars in the car park $20K plus" and much more advanced than the tours (which i found astonishing , I can see the buy cheap buy twice argument but do people really get anything better for oooddles and ooodles of money ? At Â£500 , Ive had great days out cycling 80 miles round trip to beach no cost , meet people , through new forest , I dont buy cheap because i enjoy my bike as it is thanks

Paul - April 26, 2019

Good article. It mirrors many of my own thoughts. The best reason for a new rider not buying a BSO is ride quality. When a new rider decides to get into shape, save gas money etc., the last thing they need is a poorly designed/constructed, uncomfortable, clunker. They will quickly tire of the BSO and assume all bicycles feel and ride the same. Then it will get put in the back of the garage or shed until it is scrapped some time in the future. I repair bicycles in my spare time and are frequently offered bicycles for free that people want to get rid of. More often that not, they are BSOs that are virtually new. Original tires, brakes, cables etc. All parts aged well past their prime and the BSO not worth the expense to replace these parts. I usually just have to disassemble the BSO and take it to recycling. What a waste.

Griff - March 16, 2019

Very interesting article although I would challenge some the figures such as a weekly wage of Â£518 in 2005. I live in Wales I don't many people earning that much now in 2019. In 2005 I bought a cheap Chinese Mountain bike for Â£120 online. Much to my surprise 2 arrived it was buy one get one free. I gave one away and kept the other one. It is a heavy old lump but it's still going strong to this day.The only thing apart from an occasional dollop of lubricate its needed was brake blocks. Granted it's not used on a daily basis I'm pushing 70. But it gets plenty of use in the summer. It would be great to have a lightweight expensive bike but that's beyond many peoples budget. So my Â£60 bike sort of destroys you environmental argument I'd hazard a guess many expensive bike haven't lasted 18 years. Like any aspect of life 'you pays your money and takes your chance'. Maybe I was lucky.I bought a bog standard bike for next to nothing and it has proved to be a gem. I might have spent Â£500 on a so called quality bike and had expensive problems with it. How often do you see expensive modern cars stopped on the hard shoulder of the motorways. I would suggest a lot more often than old ones. At the end of the day if a cheap bikes gets someone riding again as long as its safe to ride where's the harm.

Keith - February 18, 2019

I'm going to buck the trend here. I have a 1993 Â£99 Apollo Kalamunda MTB, which has been used most weeks since and is currently being used daily for a 5 mile commute. never cleaned it, the rims are rusty but its still going. All I've ever changed on it (bar the consumables tyres etc) is one back spindle and bearings. the bottom bracket is still on its original bearings and have only replaced one back brake cable. However I have regularly serviced it, stripped and greased the bearings etc. The steel frame although heavy is showing no signs of rust. Maybe the quality of cheap bikes back then was better? Have no desire to replace it and the great thing is no one wants to steal it. (but I would be gutted if it were)

Keith - February 18, 2019

I'm going to buck the trend here. I have a 1993 Â£99 Apollo Kalamunda MTB, which has been used most weeks since and is currently being used daily for a 5 mile commute. never cleaned it, the rims are rusty but its still going. All I've ever changed on it (bar the consumables tyres etc) is one back spindle and bearings. the bottom bracket is still on its original bearings and have only replaced one back brake cable. However I have regularly serviced it, stripped and greased the bearings etc. The steel frame although heavy is showing no signs of rust. Maybe the quality of cheap bikes back then was better? Have no desire to replace it and the great thing is no one wants to steal it. (but I would be gutted if it were)

john - February 6, 2019

This article is quality, unlike some of the components fitted to my Carrera Crossfire 1. Whilst they could handle a flat commute of 17 miles a day, with only a bottom bracket change, when I changed job to a 10 mile commute with a medium 3 miles of climb then things have gone bang, big style. I have lost numerous spokes from the rear wheel, leading to a wheel change eventually. The bottom bracket failed again, then last night the rear cassette split away from the free-wheel, and fell off when I released the wheel.This means a complete drive train replacement from the chain back, and I suspect that the bottom bracket is on its way again. So now to the point. Can anyone tell me of a manufacturer of bikes, not BSO rubbish, who fit quality parts, and are not too expensive. ( up to Â£750 ish) and are robust enough to grind up hill?

VialPt - September 24, 2018

I have never had a faulty bike; I have only ever had 2 bikes from new: a 1992 Marin Eldridge Grade (Â£595) which I ride every day and an orange E4 2008.(Â£850). My friends advised me on size and spec etc. I saved till I could afford what I wanted. The world economy thrives on people buying crap goods over and over again because they are all bargains. Buy cheap, buy twice.

pete - September 2, 2018

So true.My first ride as a adult was a $450 mtb hardtail,fun as but 2years on i'm $700 poorer,mostly worn or broken bits,like $25 for derailleur tune only to have it bent 3min into a ride.Handed over $3000 on a suspension bike no problems at all,had big sticks caught up in between cassette and hanger,get it out and ride on,never had an issue, bloody amazing really.Also, don't go through any where near the amount of brakes,think that's because they actually work!!.After about 3months of my new ride I thought I might dust of the old ride and see how it rode,got 20 meters out the drive came back and sold it for 20 bucks.Yep,I reckon $3000 to $4000 is about the right amount of coin for decent bike for the average person.I need to find a lazy $4000,my 7 year old 26"rimmed bike is starting to look dated,bit like it's 54 year old rider!Cheers and keep riding.

Ken W - August 19, 2018

Looking to buy myself a new (pedal) bike after many years of playing around on motorbikes. I reckon I can get a decent enough (but basic) road bike for Â£249 from Decathlon. It won't set the world on fire but seems decent enough for the price. Cheapest decent quality adult bike I've seen on their site is the B'twin Elops 100 'Dutch style' single speed bike. If a huge company like Decathlon can't produce & sell a basic adult bike for less than this then I'd assume that anything below that price-point is not really worth buying.

David Harriman - July 24, 2018

Further to my original comment of June 22, 2012; my Dawes Streetwise is still going strong, and still in regular use. Sometime in the next couple of weeks I plan to strip it down and re-paint it. In 12-years it's had two new tyres and a new chain, that's it. Don't buy a BSO. If you are short of cash and want to own a bike there are some real bargains to be had if you buy a good quality used bicycle instead. â˜º

Kev - July 21, 2018

Great article, and very well written. So I'm a carpenter. Take a look in the back of my van, and you'll notice that every piece of equipment is the absolute best available - Hilti, Festool, Mafell, Makita, DeWalt, Mirka - the list is endless. It's that way because after 30 years on the tools, the 'buy cheap - buy twice' rule exists everywhere. I decided that I'd like to get fitter, so I bought a BSO - principally because I wanted to pop a toe in the water, and do a self-test as to whether I'd really commit to it - a story which many people will identify with, I'm sure. I'm now up to 100 miles a week, and the BSO is already starting to show it's true lack of value. I'm now looking around for something better. Will I eventually end up with the Hilti of bikes? Maybe not, but I'm no longer prepared to tolerate the ALDI. Best wishes.

Shannon - June 16, 2018

Though some people have had different experiences with cheap bikes, i have to whole heartedly agree with this article. Having had several expensive bikes over the years and experienced BSO's as well. There is no comparison. After the obligatory BMX as a small child, my parents brought me an Appolo crusader road/touring bike. and though i did love it at the time, it genuinely was a piece of junk. The shifters chewed the cables, brakes where awful, And the handle bar clamp was simply dangerous coming loose leaving me wobbling about and falling off when the bars slipped to one side. Followed by another cheap bike (though miles better than the apollo) a Falcon Cheetah, though not dangerous this also fell apart in a few years. (Bearing in mind i am a trained Mechanic and have a lot of experience maintaining bikes). At 17 i brounght myself a Raliegh M-TRAX 325 for Â£600 Just before they where discontinued (such a shame). A rigid mountain bike with Deore LX groupset the works. This was an incredible machine, i rode it for 15 years with only the basest of maintenance, Tyres, cables, chain/spockets ETC. And considering i am quite hard on bikes (they take a real beating with me)I was devistated when it was stolen. I have had some bad luck with bike theft, 4 and counting. I then owned a Marin Nail Trail, another fantastic machine, unfortionately stolen. At this point i was having servere financial issues but need somthing just to get to work. So i brough a Â£100 apollo mountain bike as this was all the cash i could raise, while i saved for something better. This was stolen as well but i got it back (maybe that says something about cheap bikes, i dont know). My ride to work is about 10k so 20k a day riding, This piece of junk was virtually impossible to keep working correctly. Gears would constantly need adjustment, breaks as well. Eventually after around 12 months of riding, one day im going along when clunk i stopped to look and the rear axle had snapped inside the hub. At this point enough was enough. so i purchased a Boardman CX team cyclocross as i was now doing far more road work than off road. i got a deal as it was Halfords summer sale so cost me Â£550 (Yes i know halfords are about as useful as a chocolate teapot when it comes to building a bike). But this didnt bother me as i could set it up properly myself. In the 18 months i had it (Yes another stolen bike), I clocked up nearly 8000 miles with hardly any issues at all, apart from squeeky disk brakes, and having to adjust the rear wheel spokes twice, (obvious general maintenance aside). I now have a Carrera Crossfire 3 Hybrid Â£400 (And a Kryptonite m-18 lock for it), though not the most expensive bike it is good soloid machinery. So in conclusion if you ride regularly more than a couple of miles, this article is totally correct, BSO's are a complete false economy.

Simon Farnsworth - April 24, 2018

There is one big benefit to BSOs; when I was getting back into riding after a 10 year hiatus without a bike, a cheap BSO with the explicit intention to save up for a real bike while riding it gave me a cheap way to get back on two wheels and confirm that I wouldn't be put off riding to work by a bit of rain. Once it was clear that I still enjoyed riding, even in the pouring rain, I was able to use my savings to buy a decent bike, and gave the BSO to someone who couldn't even afford a BSO to ride. Net result was that I got back into riding; had I hated it, I'd not have lost a huge amount of money on the BSO, and someone else got a chance to ride instead of waking or taking the bus.

Patrick Kelly - February 12, 2018

Its true of many things, the cheapest of anything is often of unacceptably low quality. The manufacturers have to take shortcuts to keep the cost down, it's common sense. The BSO bikes stand out like a sore thumb usually, the first giveaway is threaded forks, the second is that it's often made from steel which is not butted and is therefore heavy, and the third is that the ride quality is often lacking.

Jamie - December 4, 2017

Why do people buy rubbish bikes? My view is because most people are neither hardcore cyclists nor mechanically minded, and genuinely can't tell the difference between a new decent (Â£300-Â£500) bike and new, freshly greased BSO unless there is something obviously broken. When I acquired my first "decent" bike, it was nothing spectacular, but it had good independent reviews, it was built by a reputable manufacturer and was set up by a well known bike store with a good reputation (not Halfords!). It replaced a nearly 20 year old steel framed BSO bought from a cash and carry in the 90s, but one which had stood up to nearly two decades of casual use. Now I'm pretty mechanically minded, but a casual, not hardcore, cyclist. The quality of the workmanship on the new cycle completely blew the old one away, it's lighter and the mechanics are named brand and maintainable, but quite frankly I'd be hard pushed to tell the difference between that and my 20 year old BSO (after some lube) from the sort of test that most people get to subject prospective purchases to, at most a quick lap of the car park. To sell more "proper" bikes to the BSO buying (and casual cycling) public, it's less of a case of berating them or their bikes, but practical and direct comparisons. What should I look for? Why does it matter? What are the pros and cons of each option? Most people get that engineering is hard, they don't care. No matter how you advocate for the latest and greatest tech, they aren't going to buy top of the range bikes. If not abused, BSOs can and do last for years of casual use. Even if they don't buy a "proper" bike, at least we should help them understand the options (even those at or near the bottom of the tree), the aim being to allow them to spot and avoid the worst of the BSOs.

Radu - September 29, 2017

Nice and unique writing on bike value. I liked the idea of expressing the bike value based on how many days you have to work for it. I live in Eastern Europe and here people are paid much less than UK, for an average person, to buy a 400 pound bike means to spend all his salary. Still I know guys that own 2000 euro bikes despite their low income. They just saved money to do it. However, there is a great counter-argument to buy an expensive bike. It may get stolen. I had 3 stolen bikes in the city and 4 stolen bikes from my home garage in the last 10 years. Some were worth more than 400 pounds on 2nd hand market. So, being desperate to find a better bike alternative, I have found this: If you buy an old road bike like Bianchi, better Peugeot or so, then maybe change rims, make a full service to the bike especially hubs, change the handlebar tape, the chain, pedals, perhaps even the tires, you get in the end an ultra fast, pleasant and elegant commuter bike costing no more than 200 pounds. Hipsters do this and they're not stupid to do it. The better vintage race bikes come with shimano 600 tricolore but shimano 300 exage or latter 105 are also acceptable. I have such a bike, I ride about 150 km / week in the city which means at least 5000km/year. I have been riding it no problems for 3 years and spend about 50 euro / year for maintenance. But for MTB you'd better pay that 400-500 euro and buy a new one, decent quality, 100% agreed!

Al - September 5, 2017

I enjoyed the article, yes it's funny how people want the best of other things yet may skimp on a bike, but maybe they are just not at that 'enthusiast' level to know the difference. The price of high-end bikes is relative. To me Â£5k is a year's rent, to some it's less than a month's wages. I doubt I'd pay that even if I could, but I believe in buying the best you can afford within reason (Need to leave it locked and unattended - what if it gets stolen?) Insurance I suppose (*note to self). Buying second-hand is a good option if you can find the type of bike you want in the correct size (XL sizes are rarer, particularly if you wish to add older parts that you already own). My primary concern is safety, I want to know the frame, forks and components are dependable. Bear in mind that an old steel frame could be rusting from the inside out. Aluminium also has a 'recommended working life'. Could your riding style overly stress the bike? I've kept an MTB going now for over 20 years, many total component changes, but I often wonder if it is false economy, especially in the years since disc brakes arrived. I go through a wheelset and drivechain every year or two - v-brakes wear through the rim walls eventually in wet muddy conditions. As already mentioned, if good parts last 4 times longer but only cost 3 times as much then it makes sense to use them. If you can afford them that is. Which goes back to the fact that you should use what you have to at least ensure you are out cycling, preferably on a quality safe bike.

Kev - August 28, 2017

Really good article for the doubters out there, I bought a Claud Butler "Dalesman" in 1977 with two months salary as an apprentice. I was out on it today for a nifty fifty miles. Admittedly its a bit like "triggers brush" the only thing that is now original is the frame, but that has carried me over a quarter of a million miles in the intervening 50 years; providing me with a means to commute to work for virtually no expense when I had a young family and countless days out and holidays. Buy cheap buy twice (at least).

Graeme - August 27, 2017

I purchased two Apollo bike for myself and her indoors a Slant and the girls equivlant, each bike Â£99. We have had them for 6mths and in that time what's gone wrong ?? Nothing other than the odd minor adjustment, my bike is used most days for commute and living in Preston Lancs we are lucky enough to have the Guild wheel cycle way 21 miles which we both do most weekends. The bikes have served a purchase they gave us a cheap in to see if we would like it (we do). We are both upgrading shortly to something around the Â£300 mark again not top money but within our budget and Iam confident that they will be an improvement on the Apollo's ride wise and equally reliable.

Dave Thomas - August 25, 2017

Excellent article. Among the six bikes we have is a Specialized Hard rock FS. I bought it new in1999 ( Â£400). It is still used every week and has had no major components replaced.

Anon - August 9, 2017

This is a great page and I agree. On road bikes the decent stuff starts with Shimano 105. On MTB its Shimano SLX. Stuff below that like Tourney and Altus won't last. In fact I had a pair of those "EF-50" (below Altus?) shifters and the left shifter chewed the cable on the inside of the shifter. Awful. Now I just take my time and wait for used parts to come up and will only buy Ultegra/Dura-Ace or XT/XTR parts. Yup, they last a long time. One guy said he properly maintained a Dura Ace derailleur and he is still using it today after 20+ years of use. Same guy said Ultegra rear mechs tend to last about 7 years. So the Dura-Ace ones last 3 times longer then Ultegra. The top bike parts really aren't just about showing off, thats just an inadvertent side effect lol.

Andy in Bournville - June 28, 2017

Just my experience. I had a Â£70 Trax TR1 bought for me as a gift 5 years ago. It came in a box, and I bolted it together. By revisiting my teenage bike maintenance skills, I've had little trouble with it, cycling around the local roads and parks almost daily. The only part I've just replaced is a new freewheel, after 5 years use. No rust or flaking. An occasional Shimano gear tweek and wheel true, cleaning with a bit of WD40, and a bit of oil has kept it running perfectly. I don't see why I won't get another 5 years of a smooth ride and smooth gear changes from this "BSO". So there.

Hobart - May 22, 2017

Thanks for the article. It's an interesting read and pertinent to me at the moment. I grew up in the countryside and got my first cheap bike when I was about 12, my second when I was 14, and after that I regularly used to buy second hand bikes down the local farmers market. Repair and ride them over a few months and then sell them on. Back in those days I'd be riding maybe 150-200 miles every week. 20 years later and about 15 stone heavier (25 stone in total) I decided enough was enough and I needed to get fitter. I had a quick look in the small ads spotted a bike of the right size and picked it up. Definitely a BSO. The gears were terrible the ride was appalling and I thought it was all down to my fitness and size. I then gave up for a bit, trying to work out if I was ever going to ride again. Then my wife signed up to a bike to work scheme (I'm not eligible). She got a loan of a new 2016 Ridgeback bike for a month. I then accompanied her on a ride and was irritated to see here flying along while I was left panting behind. After a while I motioned that I needed a breather, and while I sat wheezing she took my bike for a ride. The result she came back panting too. I then tried her bike, and while I wasn't exactly cruising it was a hell of a lot easier to ride. So my experience is that a decent bike can make all the difference. I'm currently considering getting the male equivalent Ridgeback and abusing it until I've lost a few stone and developed the ability to breathe properly while riding again. Any advice though would be welcome.

Richard - May 17, 2017

Bought my first bike as a student in 1968 - a 1950s Raleigh, built like a tank. Moved on to a brand new, modern Raleigh in 1984. In 1989 the frame fractured at the rear right-hand dropout. Replaced under guarantee. That failed in the very same place in 1993. Replaced under guarantee again. This one failed at the same place in 1997. Thankfully all these occurred in England and not when I was in France on my annual cycling holiday. By now they couldn't replace like with like so the new replacement was a different model. That served until 2009 when rust on the lower surface of the chain stays persuaded me to look online and I came up with a 1980s Claud Butler. That has served me well for 8 years but the threads on on side of the bottom bracket will not now hold the bearing in place. You can get bearings that get round that problem, but I'm looking for another bicycle that has a longer top tube (greater than 61cm) as I've found that that will give me a more comfortable riding posture.

Pablo - May 5, 2017

Moving to the Netherlands, I was amazed at how expensive the bikes are on that country! However, after shelling a good chunk of change you end up with a very durable bike... 10 years on, riding every day back and forth in all weather conditions with all this moisture but still chugging along smoothly So I agree, with bikes, like with most other things it is pay me now or pay me later...

Tricky Dicky - April 27, 2017

I agree fully with this article, I have been into Mountain Biking for years and whilst I cannot shell out thousands of Â£s for bikes I would never consider bikes below Â£400, for taking offroad, I have had many faulty cheap bikes brought to me for repairs and the parts are crap, the bikes heavy , ok for riding up and down a street but not much use for anything else, if finances are an issue better to buy a good second hand bike from your local bike shop than a cheap new bike from an internet store or catalogue chain .. just my opinion of course ..

MK - April 25, 2017

A few years ago it was decided we were going to get into cycling so I bought a second hand hybrid and gradually upgrade, then decided I wanted a mountain bike as well.. Ended up with a second hand BSO with the twisty grip gears. Peeled all the stickers off so it was just a nice (for what it was) looking full suspension pile of s... I managed one ride on it, tying to ride up a muddy hill just resulted in numerous unintentional gear changes and lots of swearing. When we arranged a second 'none road' ride I was all over the internet the night before trying to find a decent bike the next morning.. Everything led to the Voodoo Bizango and I managed to pick up a second hand one locally. Felt great to ride and completely different from the BSPOS (sure you can work that one out). Regretted selling it last autumn as I didn't really get out on it that much, but after a phone call from my riding mate on Sunday to say he'd just bought an Aizan, I was straight out for the new Bizango (un-ridden second hand for 400 notes), and it feels just as good as the old one. Got a message off the mate starting 'can see why you like the Voodoo' after he'd ridden it five miles home.... If you're looking at a BSPOS due to cost, have a look for a second hand Voodoo, you won't be disappointed.

dave - April 18, 2017

I have a 2015 Carrera folding bike great quality bike paid Â£170 never had a problem so don't knock them also being English brought up with English bikes but my new folder is just as good

Alex - April 8, 2017

Amazing article! I am new to cycling but would have gone out to Halfords and bought a Â£100 bike if it wasn't for this. But what is a good brand and model to buy? Do you have any recommendations of bikes or retailers?

Steve on a bike - March 31, 2017

Biggest pile of c**p I've ever read there nothing wrong with cheap supermarket bikes the last two years when written properly not everybody wants to go jumping off mountains 100 squid for two years pennies a week. What you're saying is don't buy it cheap call it must be a Rolls Royce shameful if all you got is Â£100 then buy that bike it will do you good

Glenn - March 30, 2017

I found your article rather condescending. In our house we don't have that ''average'' wage.. nothing close, and i'm the only one earning. My wife only learned to ride a bike 8 months ago at the age of 30. (She never had a bike as a child.) She learned on my bike that i had for years and never used. So for her birthday i bought her an Apollo Jewel and yes it does feel a little flimsy in some areas, but its all i could afford... its her first ever bike, she loves it and we now go out riding along disused railway tracks whenever the weather is good. Her on the new cheap one and me peddling like a mad man on my Bmx, (i'm saving up, and watching ebay looking for a cheap second hand mountain bike for me) She was in the garden washing her bicycle today when i went home for lunch.. she's very happy with it, so am i. Simply saying not everyone has money to spare... and with any product in this world there is always the well marketed over priced labelled goods that suckers with money will over pay for such as '' Perrier water'' which is still only H2O after all, a Timex watch will keep good time just as well or better than a Rolex, and a Ford Fiesta will still take you to the same places as a Ferrari... just a little slower, but actually more reliably and will need less servicing, and lower running costs.

Ilsonlad - February 18, 2017

I've noticed that a lot of the replies to the original article are from the "look at me, look what I can afford brigade" and excuse me for saying it but it's obvious that some of the contributions have been made by people who have money to throw around Willy Nilly. Not everyone can afford to put out three or four hundred quid on a bike, does that mean that they shouldn't have a go at cycling and just stand with their faces pressed up against their sitting room windows watching people gliding past on their top of the range Boardmans? I'll give you an example. A friend of mine bought an Apollo hybrid from the dreaded Halfords, it was a cheap bike and as we all know not built to last. However it really was all he could afford and he was keen to have a go at cycling and try to get himself fitter. He started cycling a few miles almost every day... 2 years, 2 sets of tyres and some brake pads later and he's lost almost 4 stone. He (nor I) can believe what this "cheap" bike has done for him. He was suffering depression... gone....medical problems with his legs and feet... gone. So in conclusion, after reading an article like this what are people that CANNOT afford to put out 3 or 4 hundred quid supposed to do? Yes you get what you pay for but surely it's better to have a go at our wonderful sport than to be too frightened (by articles such as this) to at least try.

crazydave - February 10, 2017

Nice article, the approach of buying quality second hand usually works for most things as often they are bought purely because they are expensive by people with more money than they know what to do with and because it is a brand. so I pick up Nike goretex jackets never worn in anger, goretex walking boots that went no further than a pub carpark or my most recent purchase a 2001 marin rocky ridge off ebay for 230 quid. more expensive than it could have been as I ended up in a bidding war but a nice retro bike with under 200 miles on it, bombproof components, alloy frame and ridden by little old fella up and down the canal towpath then stored for 12 years. got a load of extras to empty his shed but all usefull so other than the train journey to pick it up I was well happy with a thousand pound bike for quarter the price. by the time I've upgraded the bits I want over time off ebay it will probably out last me unless it gets nicked. one thing with older bikes is you often know what you are getting, a taiwanese made bike is totally different to a chinese one. it also helps if you are familiar with the brand and how it rides. don't be afraid to tatty a bike up a bit, I had one of the best specced cannondales in york but the paintwork was so messed up and it was so grubby apart from where it needed to be clean that it never got any interest until it was stolen from work - inside the building at that. A friend of mine paints rust and dirt on his or least he says that's what it is. another plus side for second hand is retro often has its own cool and often these bikes got ridden a couple of times a month rather than 30 miles a day which is what mine used to be subjected to. I did just over 13000 in one year, I was gutted when the battery on my cateye went flat at 28k. as a price guide line for second hand they reckon half the purchase price then 10% off per year.

Chris - January 16, 2017

Great article. I just recently bought a new bike for Â£400. Before hand, the more I read about bikes the more I realised that getting a cheapo bike wasn't a good option. Would have liked to have spent Â£500 but oh well, couldn't stomach that. But so far it's been great, very light and fun to ride compared to the cheap one I had growing up.

Rob - January 12, 2017

I bought my Carerra Vortice from Halfords in 1996 at Â£260. IN that time I've fitted one set of tyres and just replaced the pedals as one cracked. That's it, I'm well capable of the maintenance but it's a cracking bike and I keep looking at used newer bikes but I feel good riding such a (now) unique bike in a fetching 90's bling polished alloy finish (7005) I agree, Id rather buy a broken quality bike (and repair it) than a chinese out of the box junker. Great article

Stan Doffarf - December 26, 2016

In many ways sage advice. But the BSO comes in many guises. Not all are equal and price is no measure. My brother in law specialises in almost annual purchases of the most awful piles of Chinese scrap, yet Decathlon has some almost acceptable BSOs at the same price point. While I would do much research at my local cycle shop for bikes for adults, the BSO is a solution for younger children. While she was learning my daughter had two successive Giants that were solid where it counted, but were poor and flimsy for the type of stuff that attracts kids to bikes. Now she's making a first foray into geared bikes (and riding without parents in attendance) a BTwin BSO is an ideal solution as it's good enough where it counts and, round here, is much more likely to be outgrown or stolen before anything needs repairing.

doug - December 26, 2016

Yes, but if you want something to go to the bars or something at night in a high crime neighborhood, a good bike is going to get stolen. I keep a "pub bike" for this reason.

Rey A - December 19, 2016

Awesome information. I learned quite a lot and technically saved me from the bad decision i was going to do buyibg a bike. I still don't know what specific kind of bike should I get, or if it even matters for a price tag of 400 quid

Ben - December 15, 2016

Great read. Another big point is that the bso's have to be recycled... probably for the next generation of bso's point being they are melted back to form othere products with chemicals and othere cheap alloys ect, which in turn uses loads of fuel making polution plus shipping it all the way back to china uses thousands of cubic tons of fuel. Think befor you buy. I ride a gt xc aggressor from 2006 great bike just changed the tyres this year ten years later!!!! Gears still mint brakes are great that was Â£450... 450Ã·10Ã·52=0.8666 so thats 86p a week.

Barny - October 31, 2016

Would be good to have a comment on the benefits of extra gears. Is the doubling in price worth the transition from 9sp to 10sp ? I dont think it is.

Paul - October 29, 2016

Excellent article, can't fault anything written there. I have friends who have bought such 'BSO's and they've pretty much experienced the same value for money as described. If you're on a budget then second hand is definitely the way to go. I've bought two bikes in the last year of eBay - eBay can of course be a gamble, but as most bike sales are collection only and cash on collection then you have the option not to pay of the bike's not as described. Last year I got a gorgeous Ridgeback Velocity from a man in Streatham for Â£137. Other than very minor gearing adjustments it's been flawless since I bought it, I've probably done a couple of thousand miles on it so far and it still rides like a dream. A couple of months ago I got a 1998 Specialised Crossroads, again off eBay, for my 18 year old daughter to take off to uni in Brighton with her. Initial cost for the bike was Â£72 It needed a new cassette, chain, part of the derailleur, and a new nut for the forks. Total parts and labour Â£90. So for the grand total of Â£162 she now has an excellent quality hybrid bike that rides like a dream, she loves it. Anyway, hope this is informative. Thanks or the article and keep on enjoying! :-D

sean - October 23, 2016

its all true, common sense really, you want good it costs money, if its cheap then its either crap or stolen !! my old mountain bike is from the eighties, heavy and built like a tank, but even though its hard work to get anywhere , its still going !!

Richard W - September 27, 2016

Learn how to fix EVERYTHING on your bike yourself. My bike started out as a Halfords cheapie, an Apollo Belmont. When the rear wheel bearings need adjusting then it is time to get the spanners out. If wheels rub on brake blocks, adjust them, or true the wheel. If a bike goes wrong on the road there is no equivalent of the AA or RAC. If a component is not up to the job, find out what is compatible and replace it yourself. The last time I took a bike back to a bike shop for repair was 1982. Putting LBS mechanics out of a job? Perhaps but I have to buy spares and components from somewhere.

Justin Wallace - September 18, 2016

Good advice, I don't bother buying new anymore, the cheap bikes are utter trash and the decent/high end stuff is far to expensive, my chosen route is eBay and look for a decent quality 80/90/00's bike from the likes of Marin/GT, ok they may need a new cable or two or a pair of tyres but still work out far cheaper than than a mid range bike of today, recently bought a 1996 'Saracen Powertrax' for Â£29, I've changed the tyres for 1.5" road slicks adjusted the cable for the front derailleur and have proceeded to put about 5-600 miles on it in 3-4 weeks without so much as a hitch, that's what I call a bargain...

Mike Alexander - September 18, 2016

Nice article. I bought a Specialised Hard Rock in 1996. It cost me nearly Â£400, which seemed a terrifying amount of money at the time. 20 years later I am still using it regularly - even did a sprint triathlon on it a few years back. It still has the original wheels, tyres and shifters - the brakepads, sprocket, gearset and chain are about all I've changed. I've spent just a few hundred quid on servicing. I would estimate a total outlay of under Â£700 over 20 years. Now Â£35 a year for a decent, light, strong bike is excellent value for money in my book!

Craig - September 10, 2016

Bought a cheap bike, got me back into cycling, was sub Â£100. But you're right it been a pain last 6 months. Today I have been out and bought a Boardman after riding a friends cyclocross bike

Clark slingsby - September 6, 2016

I couldn't agree more. What a well written piece. I wish I had read this before I wasted my money. I spent Â£300 on 2 full suss mountain bikes. I thought they looked great, all shiny with disc brakes and suspension. They were totally useless and horrible to ride. We hardly ever went out on them, and guess what? They both ended up at the landfill. This story does have an happy ending though. I wandered into a proper independent bike shop and had a good long chat with the owner and got all the advice I needed. It took me a few months to splash the extra cash, but I ended spending Â£400 on a trek Marlin 6 hardtail and fell in love with the sport. I now also own a giant stance full suss Â£900 and go to trail centers every chance I get. Owning a good quality, well built bike is the only way to enjoy and get the most out of this brilliant sport. Do not fall for the 50% off, catalogue piles of rubbish. Buy once, buy right Clark slingsby

Steve - August 29, 2016

Just to add some balance...I just bought a Carrera Subway 1 from Halfords for Â£186 (in the sale). Disc brakes, 650b tyres 24 speed Shimano. Amazing value. My older bike is a carbon Colnago with Campagnolo groupset. Both are brilliant. The Carrera is great for the gravel tracks and potholed roads round here and is well built and well set up. The Colnago is also great (actually brilliant) but I am constantly nervous each time I see a manhole/pothole/gravel ahead. I bought the Colnago on Ebay and changed the Shimano groupset to Campagnolo. Sold the groupset back on Ebay. So....when buying a bike look for discounts and a quality brand second hand. The frame is the most important component. Everything that hangs off it can be swapped out. Bikes that start cheap have frames you wouldnt want to hang anything on let alone yourself surrounded by traffic and other obstacles.

Colin M - August 28, 2016

I have to say I'm in agreement with Volker Lensch - by comparison with other mass-produced consumer items I do not see why you should have to run to Â£400 to get a reasonably serviceable bike. You can buy a Husqvarna petrol chain saw for Â£130, a Hyundai petrol mower for Â£120, a Beko washing machine for Â£180, Indesit fridge for Â£130 and a Beko full-size dishwasher for Â£190. These all require precision machined components and some require considerably more raw materials than a bike. Some also require electronics and electrical safety approvals testing. Why should a reasonable entry-level bike cost more than double any of them?

JC - August 26, 2016

Awesome article, but there is one scenario you are missing: Owning a bike in a town where bike theft is so common that it's basically a given (for example, NYC, where I live). There is a *huge* market for low quality, cheap BSOs here, because they make sense. You're a very lucky person indeed if you can keep that bike for the 6-12 months it takes to fall apart. If somebody basically has to purchase a bike per year, it's really tough to convince them not to go cheap, no matter how logical the argument is.

Frank Duffin - August 19, 2016

Agree entirely with your article. Bought a Trek hybrid about 20+ years ago for close to Â£700. First three months used it to get to work and back in Aberdeen. Trek chain broke three times. Bike shop advised me that the American chain was poor and offered me a French upgrade. No breaks since no matter the hill climb. This bike will freewheel on a 1 degree incline and requires little effort to ride fast. You get what you pay for.

Bert Norman - July 17, 2016

Great article! Wish I had read this before buying a Claud Butler last week for 310 pounds. Lasted for two miles before the crankshaft died.

Jezabel - June 9, 2016

Thank you thank you thank you for this article! I was soo damned close to buying a 'cheap as chips' cruiser style brand new from china bike off of ebay! I came across this article and now am on the look out for a sturdy vintage Raleigh or other quality second hand bike. Saying that, my trusty Apollo Jewel (yes a Halfords purchase) has done me quite well over the last 2 or 3 years. Several child seats, basket, pannier and towing a full up to the brim and HEAVY Burley De-lite trailer - it is nothing short of a work-horse and has been great value for money. Only advice would be to take out a service-plan if you do get a BSO from the likes of Halfords, regular checks and maintenance is the key to keeping these cheap beasts in good and safe condition (had new tyres and a new back wheel in 3 years - which I dont think is too shabby for a 100 odd quid bike!). But time to move on, MTB's are great up to a certain age I think, but the riding position and pressure on my wrists are beginning to take their toll. Sit up and beg vintage old school style - here I come :).

Dave - June 6, 2016

I've had issues with both inexpensive and high end bikes. Some years ago I purchased the giant warp full susser (not cheap by any means) the frame snapped...replaced by giant and again snapped frame then just for good measure a third snapped in the same place. So went for a hardtail option by kona (also not cheap At All) the frame was great the seals went on the fork in a few months and the bottom bracket was complete rubbish. I salvaged parts from the bike and bought a relatively inexpensive muddyfox therapy. The brakes have since been replaced the rst fork replaced with marzocchi the stem replaced the handlebars replaced the wheelset basically completely rebuilt the bike. Luckily some of the parts I had and some I bought 2nd hand but realistically for the cost time etc it would have been cheaper to invest in something decent new. Now riding norco and never had an issue.

Volker Lensch - May 25, 2016

Trends like automation, globalization, standardization and economy of scale have also helped to bring consumer prices down. I agree, that a good bike mechanic is highly recommended for building, testing and maintenance of a bicycle, and buying online with build it yourself might be risky, however, the large bicycle retailers such as Halfords or Evans should have enough quality control to do the needful. For 200 GBP you should get a decent bike from them. Independent bike shops are better for the high end sector, where expensive bikes gives them enough margin.

JuliaZ - May 23, 2016

I bought my front-suspension mt bike in 1998 for $700 US - it was last year's model but brand new, so kitted out, its full retail was $1000. I just spent $140 at the local bike shop on a complete tune up including cables and brake pads and springs, and $60 on new puncture-resistant tires, tape, and heavy-duty inner tubes. So for less than $900, I've had a bike for 18 years. My first car, by comparison. cost $700 to put on the road, and lasted 2 years before the engine was kaput. My "expensive" bike was a bargain and I'm glad I didn't buy a BSO.

Mike - April 4, 2016

Great article - a few years ago I bought what I thought was a 'proper' bike but which turned out to be a BSO. It was from what I thought was a reputable brand whose initials are 'CB'. IT was supposed to be a 'hybrid' but in fact it was a heavy, steel framed mountain bike with lots of extras, none of them any good. Unlike most BSOs it didn't have fake suspension or grip shifts, instead it had horrible fat tyres, bottom of the range disk brakes and it never felt steady at any speed. Its hard to explain how horrible it was, and of course I lasted only about 3 months before giving up. I've just invested in a decent hybrid - lightweight, decent rims and tyres, good quality components all round - such a difference.

Simon - March 19, 2016

Alex, the average wage figures are simply for comparison. Average is just that, whatever year it is. Â£400 is still excellent value. This gets you a good bike, a means of transport, a gateway to fun and freedom. Compare it to mobile phones, computer consoles etc and it's far better value (and it won't be crippled by an OS 'upgrade' in 18 months time). The difference between a BSO and a real bike is night and day and no-one who has any sense and experience can argue against it. If you want something to ride short distances and leave in a risky location (but still securely locked!) then it might be sensible to pick up a cheap, used one with as few gears as possible and no suspension. Otherwise they are a complete waste of money. Thanks for a great article.

Alex - March 7, 2016

For many people, a bike for Â£400 is just plain expensive! Remember what "average wage" means - it means when you account for a skewed distribution of wealth, a healthy majority of people make less! This article is misleading because it implies you need to work for a quality, brand new bike, or you're a danger and a threat for riding something inexpensive. It totally neglects the millions of high quality bikes that have been churned out throughout the years, particularly the boom produced Japanese bikes of the 70s and 80s. These bikes are made of good steel and use quality components, and you can pick them up for less than a day's wage, forget a week. If they've been maintained or you're willing to restore them, they will ride as well as anything you can buy today. Better, in fact, considering how many modern bicycles sacrifice comfort and features for racer looks.

Joe - December 11, 2015

I still don't understand why my work colleagues find logical to get the latest iPhone for 600 EUR which will only last 2 years (they are made like that) but find expensive the bikes I recommend for 350 EUR, which with the right maintenance will last forever

Grape Smuggler - November 18, 2015

I'm honestly struggling to comprehend the BSO love. Yes there's a place for cheap bikes, but not at the expense of the safety and enjoyment of the rider. Kids bikes are some of the worst offenders and not a good way to get kids into cycling. I'd never get my kids a bike that's heavier than mine, but halfrauds have the cheek to sell a bike aimed at 3 year olds that's over 9kg; some kids that age don't weigh much more than that. BSO's really are terrible, just get a 2nd hand single speed bike; low maintainance, lighter and durable bikes with fewer moving parts, cheaper to boot. I've got one for running around town on, but I'm also fortunate to be able to afford other bikes too; if you try Campagnolo gears you could never say a BSO is good with a straight face again.

Chas - November 8, 2015

Nicola, I've had a ridgeback bike for 2 years without one ounce of trouble. They are known as good British designed conservative designs. The designers work for Genesis, Saracen and Madison. All of the parts even on the cheapest models are good quality shiman entry level group sets. The tyres are continental puncture proof commuting and trekking tyres on every single entry level commuting model they do. Whilst I'm sure that you love your Viking, the Viking and ridgebacks are in different leagues. I suspect that your story is a fabrication (who buys 2 mid level bikes and then goes for a super-budget brand) ? I love my ridgeback and gave had nothing but reliability and pleasure from it.

Ray - Nov, 2015 - November 4, 2015

Brilliant article. It's a sad fact that we live in a throw-away society these days and sadder still to think that the bicycle has become another victim of this waste-heavy culture. But that's the price we pay for entrusting manufacturing to the far east and Asia. My advice - buy a good quality second-hand bike from a reputable on-line site (e.g. e-bay or Gumtree). Do a little research first and familiarise yourself with which manufacturers can be relied upon to have produced consistently good bikes. There were some great bikes produced in the early/mid nineties by the likes of Trek, Specialized, Saracen, Orange, Cannondale, even Raleigh (to name but a few). They cost a few hundred quid back then, but you can bag a bargain now for between Â£40-100. If you're no good with a spanner though, forget it. Don't get me wrong, bike mechanics is not rocket science and anyone with a modicum of common sense and a little technical ability can learn the required skills to get and old bike running sweet as a nut again, or even re-build one. But if you're really not endowed with any practical skills at all, take the advice given in the article and buy yourself a decent machine.

John Bradshaw - November 2, 2015

I stumbled across this article by accident and it is probably the best article I have read on this subject. The writer is not calling for people to spend Â£Â£Â£Â£Â£Â£s on an exotic bike, he is quite clear in advising that a cheaper entry level bike from a recognised manufacturer sold via a bike shop will be a good bike. At this time of year (Autumn) the end of season clearances and discounts of 20-40% on last seasons models means that a proper bike from bike shop need not even cost that much more than a BSO. And if you go second hand there are some terrific bikes that undercut BSOs. For those who call this bike snobbery, try riding a decent bike and then comparing it with the stuff sold at certain toy shops and in catalogues. Yes you will pay a bit more but the change in quality is huge. Cycling is a wonderful way to get fit, an efficient and eco friendly form of transport and just plain good fun, spending a bit more on a decent bike transforms cycling.

Nicola - October 2, 2015

I bought two Ridgeback bikes brand new from a reputable cycle shop. They were both literally falling apart within three months. I replaced one with a Viking bought online for half the price. Still running beautifully and smoothly almost a year on. On both sides you can't always guarantee what you will get!

biggs682 - September 25, 2015

The other option is to buy a decent made bike 2nd hand

Jono Rezzillo - September 7, 2015

Great article indeed! I've just purchased 2 Ridgeback Traditional cycles and so glad I read artice..hope u can give me advice on the purchased Ridgeback (Traditional) Â£349 each Thanks

Jason Evans - September 7, 2015

If you absolutely have to buy a cheap bike, say you are on a very low budget and cannot afford Â£400, or like me live near the sea where any bike will corrode quickly, why not buy from a second hand dealer who also repairs?

Dave - September 2, 2015

I agree entirely, but I have an 11 year old, quickly growing son, who lives (away) in a flat, so doesn't get that many opportunities to cycle, plus skint parents means that halfrauds might be the only viable option......

Dave - August 31, 2015

Bought a cheap bike $150. Lasted 2 yrs. was fixed under warranty. Maybe 3-4000 kms on it. Donated it. Another bike 5X the cost. Over 10,000Kms. Was always breaking spokes until they were replaced. Lots of maintenance because of miles. Broke an axle. Same price range: folding bike 4-5.000 kms. Steering broke off. Got rid of it. Manufacturer couldn't give a damn about dangerous defects. Also bought a bargain basement 10 speed many years ago. Sold it. Bought it back. Maybe 20 years later dumped it. While you might get a lighter bike for more bucks there is no tried and true value equated to the dollar value. Heavy bikes may or may not be more dependable, may be as fast as lighter bikes on level ground. Getting something that is comfortable and reliable even if heavier and at a reasonable price is more important than paying a lot of bucks.

Chris - August 22, 2015

Now 2015, brought 3 bso's. 2 awesome pieces of well organised Asian manufacturer and one piece of crap poorly assembled shite. There is some great bikes out there but anyone should learn from my mistake, immediately return any bike which isn't functioning correctly, demand a refund. Other than that, look on YouTube, these bikes are easy to adjust.

David Christmass - August 17, 2015

Great term, bicycle shaped objects, love that polite term for trash, although I am not to sure about the comment about handlebars the wrong way up, in days of old often handlebars were reversed upside down as a means of shifting center of gravity on load for roadsters in village point to point events. I think, bso should also extend to include tig welded frames, as lug frames are clearly more standard and sure in design, where tig welds are more design as you like. That means weak in some instances.

Craig - August 14, 2015

Great article! Basically quality lasts and works out cheaper long term for person & planet For the tight or low waged there is a middle gound. I ride 1000s of miles a year, quailty, speed & comfort are very important to me. I'm also very tight. But you can get a very good quailty second hand bike very cheap if you look for a week or so. Ebay - gumtree etc. ask a friend for help if needed. A second hand bike is great for the environment and a quailty second hand bike is immesirably better than a BSO. I've got all my bikes this way - three in the last 11 years (two stollen) and never paid more than Â£200 for a bike - always been quailty. I looked the other day I could pick up a ribble audax for Â£150... My current bike from the 80's looks great. (I had it repainted last year Â£120) and may out last me. (I've had it 7 years) Which is disappointing as I can't justify upgrading when it works so well... And it's no clunker either I ride just about 20mph commiting to work (10miles hilly) and 15-17mph inc breaks on longer rides around North Wales... So if your broke or tight don't give up hope. Buy quailty... My 2 cents worth....

Johnny - August 13, 2015

This is a brilliant article. If you don't know what you are looking for a cheap bso seems brilliant. I bought an Apollo steel frame from Halfords and it did do for about 3 months but as stated by so many people on this site, a cheap bike is actually a bad bike. Brakes immediately bind, wheels easily buckle and gears are so badly built that they rarely move. I bought my daughter a 14 inch frame mountain bike with front and rear suspension from Halfords. It is heavier than an adult bike and the gear levers are plastic. Plastic. It looks the part to my untrained eye but after spending months trying to get them both road worthy I realised that I was waisting my time. I decided to invest Â£300 on a Ridgeback bike. I have hammered that bike on and off road for nearly 10 years and it has let me down once, when the derailier holder snapped. Yes I have changed some spokes last week, but after 10 years I feel that is pretty good. A BSO is a false economy. Buy a second hand quality bike on eBay and it will last for years. Incidentally Halfords bike parts do not{or did not} fit regular bike accessories. Stems and handlebars are different size. This leaves you INA different position when you want to upgrade or repair. The job for about

William - August 12, 2015

Very good helped me a lot but I found a bike for Â£130 and it looks alright. The Apollo Feud? Also second hand decent bikes are good for the price-weary...

Nick - August 2, 2015

An interesting read, I've just come across this while looking for something more 'official' than my opinion! One of my neighbours has just appeared with a bso out of a box, which he thought was a great bargain, but as i ride a bike can I just look at the front brake for him.......its a muddy fox branded full suspension bike, he bought it because it's a brand name he recognised and it was cheap. The front disc brake was virtually useless, the two halves of what passed as a caliper were not fully acrewed together..personally i think this is shocking, its a dangerous fault- two minutes with the Allen keys and some loctite and it was done, but it shouldn't have come out of the box like this. Many of these from the box bikes are bought for kids for Christmas or birthdays, and this is downright dangerous! I'm no bike snob, im regularly breaking the rules, baggy MTB shorts on a road bike, peak on my helmet, and I ride a red btwin triban, proof that you can, or could a couple of years ago, anyway, get a decent quality capable bike for not a lot! This fox weighs an absolute ton, the bearings are rough, the fork has play in the stanchions, it's all round horrible, and I just can't see it lasting more than a few months, its sheer weight will probably see it at the back of the shed before the months out....

Amit Dewan - July 28, 2015

Great article man! Why didn't I come across this before. My first bike was a BSO,,, a Chinese steel MTB with hopeless shifters and derailleurs. It was Acid Green and looked ok, after I disposed of it I bought a Giant Revel 2 with decent components.... Now I have a GTA .. Yes BSO's are worthless and they should stop making them .

Shaun - July 24, 2015

Bought a cheap bike off halfords 12 months broke it first time I used it, but the replaced broken part. Spent Â£150 Apollo one used it 6 times hated every minute of it. But I'm gonna have another go. Wish I read this before, gear change really bad gonna have a go at fixing myself.

Mark York - July 24, 2015

I do like this article, but its does fail to point out that you MAY get a good BSO. Look at some of the TOP cars and how many problems they have. Lots of Skoda's and Lada's were sold many years ago.I do not think I could afford a new bike, even a cheap BSO. I have however bought a few BSO's second hand, Some had the plastic brake parts but at my 7 -9 mph they worked fine. I did however get a Dunlop full sus to replace a full sus i had sold, the disk brakes were useless, honest the rear one might well have not been there. the ride was terrible. I sold it a few days later. I got an Apollo Slammer and got 5 years use out of that, it is still running smooth. As for the tale about the forks being fitted the wrong way, is that the fault of the bike ! Put them the right way and the problem has gone! All said, I would not buy a dirt cheap new BSO, but i would and do buy cheap used BSO's if they are useless they get scrapped, If they are ok i service them and give to Volunteers. Many people want to buy a bike and the Â£100 - Â£150 mark is enough for them, but they also want it to be new. I am using an old Marin Hardtail i bought for Â£30, it is still one of the cheaper bikes, but it is 100% better than the Â£120 BSO's.

DWGillies - July 6, 2015

I have been a bike enthusiast since age 12, a mechanic since age 8, and my first bike was a Raleigh Grand Prix in 1973. In 1981 my Grand Prix was stolen - and my other high-quality bike was at college. As an experiment I purchased a BSO on the classifieds newspaper ads for $35 (AMF Ten-speed). I decided to strip it down and "make it perform like a fine machine". I removed the brake lever extensions and wrapped the bars and brake levers with rubber tire - hoods! I adjusted the derailleur system to perfection, and tuned the brakes until it worked to perfection in my mom's garage. I then got on and rode around the circle at my house. The brakes no longer were adjusted. "Cable stretch" I thought as I adjusted them again and took another trip around the circle. They were immediately out of adjustment again! - and rubbing against the wheel. I think I did it 1 more time before I realized that the caliper arms were BENDING when I applied them. The cheap pot-metal would NEVER stay adjusted! I had learned why BSO's are a maintenance nightmare! I rode it for the rest of the summer and gave it away.

Marje - July 4, 2015

I read this article with interest as the owner of a BSO that was purchased at a cost of Â£170 from a well know retailer about 18 months ago, which at the time was what I needed to tootle up and down the canal towpath. I now find that I want to go a little farther afield and the 6 gears make it hard going up hills, however I cant afford to pay Â£300+ for a bike so am looking to buy a second hand one for Â£100 - Â£150, can anyone suggest a few names that I should look for that might be suitable.

bruce - July 4, 2015

hi ive just bought an apollo from halfords, brakes rub and move onto the wheel, back wheel was buckeled, gears at the back were jumping, front gears would not go into position and took a while to change over, puncture within ten miles, with no damage to the tyre, and now my bottom bracket has broke and my pedals and front gears wobble, not impressed with the set up halfords have done, plus when riding my mud guards move down and rub against my tyre there a joke, with in a day i was back about the gears, two days later for the gears again puncture and mud guards which only the puncture got sorted, this was a little more at 180 and ive had three weeks worth out of it

Russ Taff - June 21, 2015

Good article, should appear more widely. One suspects the 2005 monthly wage of 2 grand is less in 2015... but Â£300+ remains a fair price for something fun, sturdy and reliable. It's easy to slam a big name like Halfords, but they do sell the VooDoo bikes (Â£300 hybrid rigid, Â£400 mtb hardtail) which are very highly rated. Sadly British roads and bikesheds are still full of these atrocious bargain basement full suspension really heavy bikes that took off early this century. Buying 2nd hand off eBay, you *can* get some epic deals (Â£500 vgc bikes for a few hundred), but of course, bikes are evolving fast now, parts keep changing (650B wheels for example), and pre-owned off-road bikes may well have been thrashed quite hard. If you do love cycling, mid to long distance reguarly, across varied terrain, it's well worth saving as long as possible for a nice, rugged hybrid bike, and then just get out there :)

John - May 30, 2015

Most of my bikes cost nothing. I just rebuild what others have binned.For no money I've a Bates track bike , a nice Trek Antelope, various 531 raleighs and horror of horrors my wife's Reebok Freedom. It does the job. I maintain it and despite many miles it never breaks down. Stop being such snobs. Go out and enjoy the freedom!

Phil - May 18, 2015

Interesting scope of feedback on here. I think you've got a reasonable split between people who've had a bad experience with a cheap consumer bike - the haters; and those who accept that they're a cheap bike and (mostly) don't expect it to last very long. Many of us are on limited household budgets and have kids that grow like bamboo. It's not practical to buy quality bikes for kids, as much as we parents try to educate kids leave their bikes out in the garden every day, they forget to lock them, they crash them, abuse them, don't maintain them and then grow out of them. Of course if you're taking cycling seriously then invest in a quality bike. However, the vast majority of people either cycle a mile or two to work, go out for a ride with the kids at the weekend (if the weather's ok) or leave the bike in the shed for weeks on end. Cheap bikes for the masses fill a demand for the masses who are unlikely to ever attempt a downhill course or a ride of more than a few miles. I do agree however with cheap suspension. I've bought cheap suspension bikes for my kids because they want to be like the other kids. But not without explaining again and again how cheap suspension bikes are heavy, hard work to ride and 20mm of travel is quite useless. Doesn't stop them wanting them of course. As a lad in the '70s the only way I could have a bike was being able to maintain it myself, fixing it with cheap or secondhand parts, servicing, greasing, adjusting. If you look around at the bikes cycling past how many have cables hanging off, missing brakes, broken gears and flat tyres. This is ignorance, cheap bikes may break more often but parts are cheap and plentiful and a pump costs less than a Big Mac.

Alex Hitchin - May 6, 2015

This was a great read. I couldn't agree more. How ever After have a very tight 3 years with very little income and 2 kids, I found that if you know how to build your own bike and have the knowledge you can weed out the truly trash bikes, And end up with something really nice thanks to these things being filthy cheep you can pick them up used for next to nothing. Then replace all the dire and truly awful parts for better quality one's and get to work with your kids. My older brothers helped me build my first bike from dead bikes in the basement that had accumulated over the years I was 10 and ever since i have built and serviced my own bikes. In the feed back there is a chap that used to work for Halfords he said they where all junk, but I bought my ten year old a second hand trax bmx knowing full well it was terrible. I have maintained it standard for 8 months now. I can truly say off the shelf the parts are awful. How ever the frame and wheels have lived. So much so that its just received new brakes, brake levers, cable, saddle, seat post and grips, Also a used sprocket, crank and chain ring with better gearing for the ramp parks. As he progress's in bmx I am sure either the frame will crack or the rims/ hubs will die and I will replace Them for better quietly one's.

Roland Debenham - April 6, 2015

Not everyone buys a cheap bike to save a few quid. I can't ride the vast majority of modern bikes, because bike geometry was changed some years back,resulting in the rear tube being near vertical above the bottom bracket, which in turn has been raised, presumably to cater for "off roaders". Unfortunately this change has been carried through to all bike types, including the "sit up and beg" classics that I am interested in. As I said, I have trouble riding these modern machines because, although I have an inside leg measurement of 27 inches, my upper leg bones (femurs?) are short (relative to my lower leg bones). This physical limitation means that, on a 17 inch frame (for example), when I have the seat at a height where I can just reach the ground with my toes, I cannot do a complete 360 degree turn of the pedals, because when the rear pedal is at 3 'clock, I can just about get my heel on the rear pedal. Alternatively, if I raise the seat to get sufficient "leg stretch" in order to pedal through a full 360 degrees, I cannot then reach the ground. My initial solution was to buy, at great expense, a "feet forward" Dutch bike. I was/am able to ride this bike quite successfully but it is so heavy ("built like a tank" comes to mind, that I can't lift it onto my car towbar to transport it (I'm not as strong as I used to be). As for ordinary Dutch bikes, they don't seem to be built in frame sizes less that 20 plus inches, I can only assume the Dutch are all very tall. So I looked for an "off the shelf", conventional bike. I initially looked at several different makes and models in both 16 and 17 inch sizes, all with 26 inch wheels because this wheel size would put me nearer the ground, but they weren't the answer. I then thought a 17 inch frame with 28 inch wheels would give me a bike with a longer wheelbase than a 26er, which would enable me, with the aid of a hockey stick seatpost, to position the saddle further back than normal to get the "leg stretch" that I spoke of earlier. The only bike that I managed to find that had a 17 inch frame and 28 inch wheels and (most important, this), a more relaxed rear tube, was the "Real Ideal Classic" r