There is much to do in the kitchen. The traditional recipes are cast in stone, but those I value most at this time of year are often the simple, versatile, unerringly useful ones that will work for numerous occasions. A loose-textured pâté to press on small rounds of crispbread and pass round with drinks, or a stuffing that is suitable not just for the Christmas bird but for large and tender cabbage leaves and aubergines too.

The pâté I suggest is straightforward and can be ready in minutes. Fat flakes of hot smoked salmon with crisp cucumber and basil leaves that can be served as a first course, perhaps with slices of treacley rye bread, or as a salad with bitter chicory or frisée. It will also serve as a filling for tartlets or tortilla.

The stuffing here is a silky smooth chickpea mash with a crunchy, seedy texture from the addition of amaranth and dried figs. It can be baked in a loaf tin and spooned or sliced at the table. Softly spiced, it is suited to goose, turkey or pork, but also makes a good accompaniment to baked field mushrooms or roast root vegetables.

I also offer a jolly useful butter. Deeply savoury, with crisply caramelised onions and notes of juniper, it has a smoky quality that lends itself to being used with salmon or trout, tucked into a baked potato or as something to spread on hot-from-the-toaster crumpets on Boxing Day afternoon.

Chickpea and amaranth stuffing

You can make this stuffing a day or more in advance. It will freeze, too. Cook it in a 20 x 12cm parchment-lined loaf tin, then let it rest for a good 20 minutes before spooning or slicing.

Enough for 8

onions 3, medium

olive oil 7 tbsp

garlic 4 cloves

ground cumin 2 tsp

ground coriander 2 tsp

mild chilli powder 2 tsp

amaranth 175g

chickpeas 1 x 400g can

dried figs 75g

dried apricots 75g

parsley 10g

Peel and finely chop the onions. Warm 3 tbsp of the olive oil in a deep pan, add the onions and let them cook over a moderate heat for 15-20 minutes until they are soft and pale gold. Take care not to brown them. Peel, finely chop and stir in the garlic, then add the cumin, coriander, chilli and a little black pepper.

Bring a medium pan containing 400ml of water to the boil, then rain in the amaranth and let it simmer, partially covered, for 15 minutes. Drain using a fine sieve. Put the pan back on the heat, add the chickpeas and their canning liquor and warm thoroughly. Chop the figs and apricots. Pull the leaves from the parsley. Remove the chickpeas from the heat then purée with the parsley leaves and remaining olive oil using a food processor. Set the oven 200C/gas mark 6.

Combine the chickpea and parsley purée with the drained amaranth, dried fruits, onions and garlic. Transfer to the loaf tin, smoothing the surface and taking care to push the stuffing into the corners. Bake for 25-30 minutes.

Hot smoked salmon with cucumber and dill

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Ready to go: hot smoked salmon with cucumber and dill. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin

I suggest keeping the flakes of salmon as large and intact as you can, pressing them only lightly into the dish. That way the pâté stays open textured and, I think, more pleasing to the eye. Pile the salmon on to dark rye bread or rough textured crispbreads.

Serves 6

cucumber 150g

dill fronds 2 tbsp

basil leaves 15g

cream cheese 400g

hot-smoked salmon 600g

Cut the cucumber into thin slices and then into thin matchsticks, discarding the wet, seedy core as you go. Put the cucumber into a mixing bowl.

Chop the dill fronds and add to the cucumber with a twist or two of black pepper. Tear the basil leaves into the bowl, then stir in the cream cheese, taking care not to over-mix.

Break the fish into large flakes, pulling away the skin. Add to the cream cheese and cucumber then spoon into a terrine dish and press down lightly, just enough to make all the ingredients stick to one another. Serve the terrine with crispbread or dark and liquorice scented rye bread.

The Guardian and Observer aim to publish recipes for sustainable fish. For ratings in your region, check: UK; Australia; US

Dill and juniper butter

A return to this thoroughly useful savoury butter. Spread it on sourdough bread, melt it over baked potatoes or use it to finish sautéed cabbage, sprouts or prawns in the shell.

Makes 250g

onion 1, small

unsalted butter 250g

juniper berries 8

dill 10g

smoked salt

Peel the onion and cut into quarters from root to tip, then slice each piece thinly. Melt 30g of the butter in a shallow pan, stir in the sliced onion, then let it cook over a moderate heat for 15-20 minutes. Remove from the pan and leave to cool.

Place the rest of the butter in a mixing bowl and beat to a soft, lightly whipped consistency with a wooden spoon. Bash the juniper with a heavy weight, such as a pestle, so they release their fragrance, then add them to the butter. Remove the dill fronds from their stems, chop them finely and add to the butter. Add the salt to the butter, then the cooled onions and combine gently, taking care not to overmix. Serve the butter with the bread.

The butter will keep for several days in the fridge. You can freeze it, too. Roll the butter into a fat cylinder shape, then place on a piece of clingfilm, wrap and seal. Freeze until needed.

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