My time in Iran is best summarised by one brief but touching moment. At a family dinner my friend Hajar, her face poking through her traditional head scarf, smiled and said to me: "It is our pleasure, Nat; in Iran guests are a gift from God." This made me think about many things: how Hajar would be received as a guest in my own country, my perception of how Muslims see other cultures, and how hospitality and cultural inquisitiveness have a unique ability to break down many (mostly perceived) barriers.

For me, Iran set a new benchmark for charity and kindness. I advise that you go to Iran firstly for the warmth of the human spirit there. For the invitations to dinner off the street. For the frantic scrambles for a translator. For the long, chaperoned walks to ensure you find your destination. The rich and ancient Persian culture, the abundance of World Heritage sites and the insight into another religion can all take a back seat.

It is fair to say I was nervous when I arrived in the capital, Tehran. I'd heard the phrase, "be careful over there", infinite times before I left. This was amplified by the city itself, a bustling brew of life that's home to approximately 15 million people. The heat was piercing, trapped in the streets by a cloud of thick smog. Cars constantly honked, darted through traffic like manic ants and red lights were a mere suggestion.

This anxiety subsided once I entered my taxi. In fact, Iran was probably the safest country I've ever travelled to, and I never felt even remotely threatened. The driver immediately started chanting the mantra "I love you, friend" among rapid sentences in Farsi. When I reached for my phrase book and tried my luck, his face erupted in pleasure.

He joyously blasted Celine Dion, bellowing "Titanic, Titanic, Titanic". A man in a neighbouring car wound down his window, welcomed me to his country, wished me the best and said, "God bless you". When I arrived at my destination, the driver hopped out of the car and engaged the help of several people to ensure that I arrived exactly at my friend's front doorstep. I received a hug and a kiss on each cheek from the driver for good measure.

Hormoz was my contact in Tehran and, despite my insistence that I could manage solo, he organised friends and family to play tour guide on almost every day I was there. People enthusiastically took time out of their day to assist me; the pleasure was theirs. This initial contact was the catalyst, simply the first in a row of dominos. Every person had someone, whether local or in the next city, who could house me, feed me and help me.

While English is gaining significant traction among young people, especially in Tehran, half the fun lies in the animated gesticulations, botched sentences from phrase books and the universal language of smiles.

Tehran is the cultural centre of Iran. In the more progressive north of the city, the hijab sits a little looser and some of the youth engage in risque behaviour. They slowly drive alongside each other and exchange phone numbers. They upload images to the banned but widely accessible Instagram and Facebook. Some hold underground private parties, apparently with the same pleasures and vices available in Australia. In contrast, the south is the hub of conservatism.

Tehran has a vibrant cultural scene and offers numerous quality museums and art galleries of an international standard. I visited the Museum of Contemporary Art and saw pieces by Picasso, Dali, Van Gogh, Warhol and numerous others for less than a few dollars. Students congregate in hip cafes or in Artists Park, in much the same way as here.

Furthermore, Tehran is a prolific breeding ground for academics in the mathematics and science fields. While I was there, Tehranian Maryam Mirzakhani, now a professor at Stanford University in California, was announced as the first woman to win the Fields Medal, the world's most esteemed prize in mathematics. President Hassan Rouhani commemorated the event by tweeting two photos of her; one wearing traditional hijab and the other without. The hijab dress which Iranian women wear incorporates a scarf to cover the hair and modest clothes to cover the arms and legs. The burqa is very rare, more common in Arabic countries. Men wear long trousers and must cover their upper arms.

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