NEW YORK, New York — On a hot Friday afternoon, a herd of customers flank both sides of the food cart, waiting on their South Indian fare. The phone rings loudly with takeout orders. Yet New York food vendor Thiru Kumar calmly shuffles between tasks, giving everyone due attention.

Better known as the Dosa Man, Kumar opened his tiny world-renowned cart, NY Dosas (a dosa is a South Indian crepe), in 2001. Soon he amassed a cult following; local and international patrons visit year-round to buy his inexpensive and flavorful street eats. His accolades are many: Listed in 42 countries’ guidebooks, his was the first vegan dosa cart in the world. He has fan clubs in California and Japan.

Today he serves crunchy, oily samosas stuffed with vegetables and potatoes. Hungry patrons chat while waiting in a long line; kids play in the park as cars zoom by, horns and sirens blaring. The frenzied pace is typical at the cart’s southwest corner location of Washington Square Park, where Kumar has parked since opening.

He talks of his life over the din of the city:

He’s from Jaffna, Sri Lanka.

Little potato and one samosa, boss?

He learned to cook from his mother and grandmother.

Mild? Spicy?

His first experiences cooking were for their family of six brothers and one sister — where he sometimes stole second helpings for himself, he laughs.

Samosa dosa, OK.