Good news: Carnitas Los Reyes is back.

The tiny family-run Mexican restaurant famous for its sultry carnitas made my list of 75 Best Places to Eat two years in a row. But in May of last year a fire overnight forced the restaurant to shutter, and it remained closed for more than a year. Many of us wondered if it would ever reopen. I feared the worst. But they’re back.

The name above the door has changed to “Tacos Los Reyes.” The kitschy murals that once covered the walls have been supplanted with a fresh coat of beige paint. It appears they have installed new air conditioning and even a new restroom. The menu board has changed colors from green to yellow but the menu still reads the same except for prices that have gone up a few cents (or even a dollar for some items, like the beef barbacoa). Thankfully the faces behind the counter are familiar (and still as impatient as always), as is that repetitive whack-whack-whack-whack coming from the cutting board where one of the cooks is constantly chopping slow-roasted pork with a giant cleaver, barely keeping pace with a never-ending stream of tickets for tacos, burritos and tortas.

Another thing that hasn’t changed is the perpetual queue. Expect to wait in line no matter the time of day. When you place your order, you will be keenly aware that there isn’t a single available seat in the entire dining room, which has only about 10 tables. But don’t fret. The flow always works out. Someone inevitably vacates their table at the very moment your food finally emerges from the kitchen, and the staff is there to clean it in an instant.

Tacos Los Reyes

Where: 273 S. Tustin St., Orange

When: Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily

Phone: 714-744-9337