Hats Off to Hats: 10 Good Books on Hats

When I first saw this vintage photograph of a young black woman, circa 1890s, by Florida photographer Alvan S. Harper, it spoke to me of middle class aspirations, beauty, elegance, self-confidence, propriety and ... a fine sense of hat fashion. The simplicity of the dress versus the exuberance of that hat spoke to a person sure of her aesthetic!

We buried my grandmother in her hat (and purse). But that was a different time.

Or was it?

Watching Aretha Franklin's funeral service I was struck by the aunties and their hats, especially one women who wore a vivid fuchsia very tall feathered hat (with matching pink jewelry and white plastic cat's eye sunglasses - very Audrey Hepburn!). Aretha was no slouch when it came to hats either, as you may remember from her performance at Barack Obama's 2009 inauguration.

The hats at Aretha's funeral reminded me of this book:

Crowns: Portraits of Black Women in Church Hats: "Countless black women would rather attend church naked than hatless. For these women, a church hat, flamboyant as it may be, is no mere fashion accessory; it's a cherished African American custom, one observed with boundless passion by black women of various religious denominations. A woman's hat speaks long before its wearer utters a word. It's what Deirdre Guion calls "hattitude...there's a little more strut in your carriage when you wear a nice hat. There's something special about you." If a hat says a lot about a person, it says even more about a people-the customs they observe, the symbols they prize, and the fashions they fancy."

If you're interested in hats, and who isn't, then you may also enjoy these books:

Fifty Hats that Changed the World: "lists the top 50 hats and headwear that have made a substantial impact in the world of fashion and design today. From Monomakh's Cap, an early fifteenth century Russian crown to Franc Fernandez's modern-day 2010 Helmet Headpiece, the book explores the designs that have turned heads over the years and the impact they've had on the fashion and design world."

Hats: "Bowlers, Bergeres, berets and beyond, this is the ultimate guide to hats through history. From the lavish fashion hats of Marie Antoinette's court to the experimental millinery of Stephen Jones and Philip Treacy, "Hats" takes us on a beautifully illustrated journey through class conflict, gendered etiquette and national allegiances to reveal the complex cultures from which each style emerged.Unlike any other element of dress, hats are able to confer a certain presence on the wearer, whilst working to a seemingly arcane system of codes that govern our behaviour. At which occasion is it appropriate to wear a hat? When is it respectful to take hats off? Why did hats fall out of favour? Structured thematically with issues such as power, villainy and disguise"

Hats & Caps: Designing Fashion Accessories // Chapeaux et Coiffures //Sombreros y Gorras // Chapéus e Bonés: "Taking a highly visual, detailed approach,Hats & Caps provides an insight into the enormous variety of styles and trends in the world of headwear. This book is a must for any designer looking for inspiration."

Patricia Underwood: The Way You Wear Your Hats: "The true character of a hat is how it is worn. According to Underwood, a hat should be personal and the wearer needs to be comfortable about attracting the attention of strangers. In this book, the designer considers not only the message a hat might telegraph, but what is inside the head upon which the hat might sit: does she want to look alluring or demure? She also focuses on significant factors such a proportion, color, texture, the shape of the face, and the silhouette ... The book features her many years of collaborations with top-notch designers such as Ralph Lauren, Oscar de la Renta, Marc Jacobs, Isaac Mizrahi, and a host of others. Lavishly illustrated, with many photographs from the designer's own archive."

High Fashion Hats: 1950-1980: "Pretty flowers, expert styling, and flattering designs characterize some of the features that define high fashion hats of the 1950s to 1980s. This comprehensive book combines over 700 color photographs with carefully researched facts about historical events, hairstyles, and hat designers in each decade. See the hats Christian Dior, Sally Victor, Mr. John, Halston, Oleg Cassini, Adolfo, Oscar de la Renta, and others designed for their exclusive and general clientele. An extensive millinery glossary is very useful and period photographs of women in the neighborhood proudly wearing their best hats are delightful today."

You may also enjoy these couture and historical titles:

Fashion Climbing a Memoir with Photographs by Bill Cunningham: "Bill became one of the era's most outlandish and celebrated hat designers, catering to movie stars, heiresses, and artists alike. Bill's mission was to bring happiness to the world by making women an inspiration to themselves and everyone who saw them."

If you're interested in other famous milliners (now there's a sentence you don't read every day - alas) you may enjoy these titles:

Couture Hats: "From the hats at the Royal Wedding to the latest Fashion Week debuts to the unforgettable ones featured at the Alexander McQueen exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Couture Hats, a gorgeously designed book with a foreword by Stephen Jones, showcases the most stunning headwear worn today and gives an inside look at the lives of the haute couture milliners and designers who made them."

The Cat in the Hat by Dr Seuss: "Two children sitting at home on a rainy day are visited by the Cat in the Hat who shows them some tricks and games"

If you like kids books about hats then you may like some of these titles:

And if you're a crafty person (shout out to my co-worker Muriel!) then you'll like the following:





Vogue Knitting: The Ultimate Hat Book: History, Technique, Design: "Vogue® Knitting presents a comprehensive overview of an enduring knitters' favorite and essential fashion accessory: hats. It covers everything from global traditions and classic styles to key techniques, blocking to achieve the best shape, design advice, and 50 remarkable patterns from some of today's top knitwear designers."

But it was really 93 year old Cicely Tyson at Aretha's funeral who won the hat award with this magnificent over the top creation. As my Baba used to say, "the woman makes the hat, and not the either way around", and I was taught from an early age to say "that hat is very becoming on you". But as wonderfully stylish that hat is, it's Cicely Tyson's words that are truly beautiful and astounding. If you didn't hear her speech then please listen below (it picks up at minute three - she's reading an adaptation of the poem “When Malindy Sings” by Paul Laurence Dunbar).

And, just so you don't think hats are only for women, I share with you a photo of my Dad and me, wearing similar but not identical persian lamb hats. I bought that hat for my father and he wore it with delight. When it wore out, I gave him my own.

Rest in peace Dad (Bog da go prosti).

And if you're interested in other books on men's hats, enjoy these titles:

Lastly, thank you to my co-worker Will who gave me the clever idea for this blog title.