I’m observing Ukraine’s presidential election in Lviv, one of the country’s westernmost cities and, for Russian media, the beating heart of its neo-fascist surge. So when another election observer told me that the regional headquarters of Right Sector—the best known of the new nationalist groups—was just a few blocks away, I decided to pay a visit.

My colleague had seen a Right Sector march in Lviv last month and had been struck by its sharp and slightly scary military discipline. What I saw, however, was completely different. If this is Ukrainian fascism, we can all breathe a sigh of relief.