By Lily Templeton

“Semper aliquid novi Africam adferre” wrote Pliny the Elder, and Balmain Homme has once more put truth in the saying as Olivier Rousteing drew creative steam from the raw beauty of Peter Beard’s East African memories to deliver a luxuriant collection in tones of olive and camel, peppered with animal impressions and eye-catching additions.

But there was a veneer of sophistication even to the most blatant animal prints as if man and animal met for cocktail hour on the deck of Baroness Blixen’s grand house. Referencing both safari and the mores of today’s dressers, Rousteing seamlessly slid from relaxed to dressed-up with practiced ease. Most appealing were the animal prints spread throughout, here as a Lurex-infused knit, quilted there along a leg.

The main thirst of the collection came from the human side of the safari. On the one hand, looser fits found a bush leather cut from butter soft leather with drop-crotch cargo pants, or the Balmaniac’s must-have quilted sweatpants. On the other, crisp canvas flowed into slim leather, while a lapel-free blazer had the elegant appeal of a dinner jacket. Further on, thick knits and sheepskin lined outerwear recalled pioneering aviators.