I rarely feel the need to be among the first to check out a new eatery — better to give it time to work out the kinks — but when the owners tipped me off that Swilly's was giving its menu a trial run last weekend, I made tracks for Pultneyville.

For those unfamiliar, Pultneyville is a tiny hamlet in the town of Williamson, Wayne County, home to about 698 people and a nice little yacht club. If you were to start at Castaways or Bayside Pub in Webster and head east, you'd hit The Landing at Pultneyville, the distinctive red building that houses Swilly's, in 30 minutes flat.

Swilly's is a spinoff of Playhouse // Swillburger, a casual bar, arcade and burger joint at 820 S Clinton Ave. But rather than burgers, this spot focuses on seafood.

The main attraction, for me, was the lobster roll — because, let's face it, a really good one is almost unheard of in Rochester. A lettuce-lined top-split toasted bun from Flour City Bread was loaded with large chunks of lobster that had been cooked from live Maine lobsters, tossed with a smattering of celery and coated with a whisper of mayo. It was summer in a paper boat. It came with a side of crispy potato chips for $17, a price that made me wonder whether there could be any profit margin baked into that roll. It turns out, the owners have wised up and will likely charge $20 when it opens Friday, July 14 — and I would happily make the drive to pay that price.

Equally as tasty was the mixed seafood fry ($10), a combination of shrimp, scallops and squid that has been lightly breaded and fried and served in a paper french fry boat. The seafood was succulent and not at all greasy. We squeezed a wedge of lemon over it; my friend skipped the lemon pepper aioli, and it didn't need it. A side of slaw ($1) was fresh and crunchy.

Also on the menu: local red hot dog ($7), fried cod ($8) and ice cream sandwich ($5). As in the city, there are vegan alternatives: not a lobster roll ($7) and not a hot dog ($6). The lone menu item to find its way from Swillburger to Pultneyville is Tater Tots; Old Bay tots are $3.

The setting is on Salmon Creek, an inlet that leads to Lake Ontario. The area has experienced the flooding that has damaged much of the lake's shoreline; some docks are under water, and the land on the other side of the creek is flooded. The Landing at Pultneyville, thankfully, sits high and dry.

The Swilly's eating area is a patio under the dining room that soon will house the second location of The Owl House. A step down, the patio area closer to the water will serve as outdoor seating for The Owl House.

My friend and I lingered at Swilly's for awhile, listening to The Beach Boys and the pinging of the lines against the masts of the boats. Not ready to shake off the relaxed vibe, we extended our leisurely afternoon with a visit to the nearby Lagoner Farms (6895 Lake Ave. in Williamson) for local berries and cherries to take home and then to Orbaker's Drive-in (4793 Route 104 in Williamson) for small ice cream cones.

When Swilly's opens Friday, July 14, its hours will be noon to 8 p.m. Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. It is expected to be a seasonal operation. The Landing at Pultneyville is at 4135 Mill St., and parking is adjacent to the building.

The indoor space above Swilly's, which will be occupied by The Owl House, is in the process of getting some cosmetic updates. Its opening date depends in part on its liquor license, but the hope is for a mid- to late-July opening. Stay tuned.

Update: Since its opening, Swilly's has been struggling to keep up with demand for its lobster rolls. It has set up a lobster hotline so that customers can check on the availability of lobster before they make the trip to Pultneyville. It is (315) 904-4138.

TRACYS@Gannett.com

More:Two eateries in one: The Owl House and Swillburger team up on new spot in Pultneyville