Trader Joe's wine has long been A Thing, best epitomized by its bargain booze Charles Shaw line. But for a number of years, the grocer has also been contracting with major craft brewers (like Goose Island) to deliver in-house beer offerings—although you would be forgiven for not knowing that, since all the bottles say TJ’s up top. For cold weather months, the one that may convince shoppers to skip Two-Buck Chuck is Providential Golden Ale, a Belgian-style ale “brewed with spices” at a comfy 7.5% ABV.

Take away the store moniker, and the name “Providential Golden Ale” sounds pretty fancy, right? It comes in a bomber and has a Champagne-style top, complete with the ability to easily end up with foam overflow. In a pint glass, it retains a big, beautiful head.

When it comes your other senses have a shot at this beer, lemon pops up as the dominant scent. But the first word that comes to my mind is “fresh.” You can already tell this ale is light, with mild maltiness, before you take a single sip.