Two of the most active French alpinists of their generation, Ecrins pioneer Max Bonniot and Sébastien Ratel of the Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM), have put up a hard new route on the East face of the Grandes Jorasses.

The line takes the unclimbed rock between Groucho Marx (Delisi-Delisi, 1983, 750m, ED2/3, 6b and A3) and the 1981 Boivin-Diafferia (TD, 5c and A1) to its right.

Ratel already knew this remote face: from 11-14 March 2012, with fellow GMHM members Sébastien Bohin and Dimitry Munoz, he made the first winter ascent of Groucho Marx.

At the time he noted a prominent unclimbed diedre system on the wall to the right, but he also felt that Groucho Marx provided a good objective for a free ascent, and enlisted Bonniot for an attempt this July.

The two began from the new Gervasutti Bivouac Hut in fine weather after a night of heavy rain. Approaching via the Col des Hirondelles, it was around midday by the time they reached the large terrace system below the main wall.

However, it soon became clear that the large corner system of Groucho Marx was very wet, so despite carrying little aid gear, they moved 30m to the right and followed a line of weakness leading into the prominent diedre.

The first two pitches were steep but manageable (5+), but when Bonniot reached the diedre he was surprised to fine an old 8mm bolt.

Ratel led the pitch above, passing one or two more bolts and using aid in places; Bonniot followed free at an estimated 7b.

The following pitch also proved a demanding mix of free and aid, passing a final bolt with weathered sling.

The two then descended to bivouac on the terraces for the night, better equipping the first pitch during their descent.

Next morning, after warming up on the first two pitches, Bonniot led the third free. Ratel led the next, free climbing through a pendulum at 7a, but using aid higher. Bonniot followed free, estimating the difficulties at 7b, but feeling the protection on this pitch to be worse, and the climbing more serious, than the one below.

Above, the difficulties were not as great (6b then 5+) and there was no sign of previous passage. The pair continued up occasionally damp granite, crossed a section of ice, then climbed a perfect crack to reach the remaining 150m of mixed terrain leading to the crest of the Tronchey Ridge.

Bonniot and Ratel reached the summit of Pointe Walker at around 6pm, and descended the Normal Route, which was in excellent snowy conditions, arriving in the Val Ferret at 10pm.

Taking the first letters of their surnames, the pair have called the route Borat.

Who made the initial attempt is unclear. In 1981 Jean-Marc Boivin and Francois Diafferia reached the terraces, hoping to try what would later become Groucho Marx. This line was one of the most obvious and widely known unclimbed projects on the face.

However, from immediately below they realized it was far more difficult than they had expected, so moved to the right side of the terrace, where they followed a slanting line of weakness. It is not thought they attempted the line of Borat.



« Back