Belfast is alive and thriving — a compact, accessible city with the vibe of a small town. Our two taxi drivers blew us away with their chat, banter and general willingness to offer help and assistance. Our hotel check-in too was unforgettable. I have never been as spoilt. I wasn’t expecting it, but it’s a city that’s hard to beat when it comes to hospitality.

It’s beautiful too. Driving past Queens University en route to the city for the first time, you are immersed in a city that is steeped in history. From museums to cathedrals, cobbled streets to red brick Victorian terraces, it’s a must for culture.

The city-centre, meandering Victorian streets are enchanting, the old mixing with the new as you are swept up in the atmosphere of Belfast’s buzzing café scene. The night-life is every bit as exciting (the two children meant we were unable to put it to the test). Belfast has sold itself as a gateway city too, to the breath-taking Giants Causeway less than an hour away.

There are still mural tours to see the street art. I had done it over a decade ago and today it is sold as a very different experience. While sections of the peace wall and overtly paramilitary murals exist, today, as the city’s tourist brochure tells us, there is a focus on “peace and a shared future”. It’s an attitude that permeates through the city — the past is in the past.

One of the highlights of our trip was the Titanic Quarter. It sits on reclaimed land, on the site of Belfast’s former shipyards, just a stone’s throw away from the city centre. Reflecting the tradition of the city’s shipbuilding heritage, it’s built where ships were launched onto Belfast Lough and on to sea. With the old sits the new, like the Northern Ireland Science Park and the nearby film studio home to Game of Thrones (the taxi drivers told us of extras strolling the streets with long, trailing beards).

The focal point is the state of the art Titanic Belfast building, a huge visitor experience extending over nine galleries. The exterior is a breathtaking piece of design genius, clad in silver aluminium, enhanced by reflective pools of water surrounding the base. The facades lean out at angles of up to 72 degrees. These panels catch the light, creating the effect of a cut diamond.

Even if you don’t have time to step inside, it’s worth a visit for the exterior alone.

From the building of the ship to replica cabins, the sinking to the aftermath and the eventual discovery of the wreckage, it’s portrayed in a way that could appeal to the most avid history buff or passing tourist. You could spend an hour there — or three. The museum is an absolute must see.

If shopping is on the itinerary, again Belfast’s compact size and accessibility are huge pluses. All-day parking is very reasonable priced. We strolled from the older CastleCourt mall to the modern, and very beautiful Victoria Square, a part indoors, part outdoor shopping centre (House of Fraser is the big name here), complete with glass dome on the top floor with beautiful views of the city.

For families, there’s the Odyssey, a music venue but also home to bowling, games, cinema and a science museum. Further afield there’s Belfast Zoo.

We stayed at the Ramada Plaza, set in Lagan Regional Park, a 120-bedroomed, four-star hotel 10 minutes from the city centre. It’s where so many hotels can fall down, but thankfully after a long journey there were tea and coffee making facilities in the spacious rooms, and a mini fridge. Wifi is free.

The nail bar and onsite hair salon is a nice touch, while the executive lounge is a corporate bonus. The playroom is a nice added extra, a brightly coloured soft play area for smallies. For the older kids there’s the 18-metre swimming poll. The gym was really impressive, with its LA Fitness Centre and a rolling set of classes in its studio. This was no ordinary hotel gym.

Food options are vast — there’s an Indian option, casual bar food in Suburbia and the more formal option upstairs, in the Green Room. We kept it quick and easy in the bar and chose burgers and pasta, always a winner with kids.

Breakfast is always a test of a good hotel and the Ramada didn’t disappoint. Pastries, fruit, hot food and cereals – they were all there for the taking.

As for the hospitality, as it was throughout Belfast, it was flawless.

The Ramada Plaza has a two-night B&B Titanic & Nomadic Package for two adults and two children under 12 from £225. It includes tickets to the Titanic Belfast and the SS Nomadic (“Titanic’s little Sister”), plus two nights’ accommodation with breakfast each morning.