“I can remember the taste and smell of everything, even though I can no longer taste or smell,” he said.

That is, he concedes later, a bit sweeping. He can’t remember the food at a French spa prepared by Michel Guérard, who has three Michelin stars. And he can’t recall the last meal he ever ate, because who knew then that surgeons would never be able to fix it all?

But he remembers everything about the food at the Steak ’n Shake. In the hospital, he told me, he ate Steak ’n Shake meals a bite at a time in his mind. Still, what he longs for most is the talk and fellowship of the table.

“The jokes, gossip, laughs, arguments and shared memories I miss,” he wrote in a blog post.

The eating itself is a side note, really. Anyone who has put together a winning dinner party understands that. But food — the cooking and sharing part of it — still means so much to him that he is publishing a cookbook this month. It’s based entirely on meals to be made in a rice cooker. The title is “The Pot and How to Use It: The Mystery and Romance of the Rice Cooker” (Andrews McMeel Publishing, $14.99).

Image Roger Ebert is now a food writer despite losing his ability to eat. Credit... Joe Raymond for The New York Times

How can a guy without a working tongue write a recipe?

“It’s all experience, my visuals and friendly tasters,” he wrote to me. “I’ve used The Pot so very many times I know what everything I make in it MUST taste like.”

The first rice cooker in the Ebert household was a wedding gift from the couple’s longtime friend and personal assistant, Carol Iwata. It wasn’t until Mr. Ebert became serious about losing weight and went to the Pritikin Longevity Center & Spa in Florida that he began to tinker with cooking grains other than rice. He went nerdy and deep.