Dedicated cycling infrastructure in Hokkaido is similar to elsewhere in Japan – mostly non-existent anywhere that commuters or heavy cycle users would want it to be. However, there are plenty of recreational paths around, particularly on river banks and stopbanks. In Sapporo, the Toyohira River and Ishikari River are two such rivers that have cycle paths or at least very low-trafficked access roads along them. This routes connects some of those paths together for a mostly traffic-free 65km ride around Sapporo City. There’s a little more traffic in places along the Ishikari Bay waterfront, but it’s all ‘leisure’ traffic, consisting of well-behaved daytrippers and people out fishing.

Swimming in Ishikari Bay: At the northern end of the bay, close to the onsen, the swimming is acceptable. The sea along the Ishikari Bay coast is not as impossibly clear and beautiful as the nearby Shakotan Peninsula, but it is a decent, run-of-the-mill beach. Avoid swimming at the southern end of the beach near the Shinkawa River mouth. I went for a dip there on an overnight walk to Ishikari Bay (story here), but regretted it – the Teine settling ponds run into the Shinkawa River, so the water does have a stale aroma to it.

Highlights of this route include quiet cycleways and paths, Royce Chocolate factory store (here), birdwatching, and the ocean.