Swimming hole between Zubiri and Pamplona ©2015 Katy Zweifel

40 Days to Santiago: Day 4 — Zubiri to Pamplona

When perceived need is stripped to the basics, it is much easier to cherish simple pleasures, like a meal shared with friends. On a summer pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago, pilgrims need only food, a place to sleep, maybe a little Compeed, and plenty of water sources. One of the best parts of the Camino centers around each river crossing or drinking source. Pilgrims congregate in these spaces, wading in the flowing waters. We linger long enough near shaded fountains to fill our water bottles at least twice before continuing. By the water, conversations go deeper. Those who were separated during the morning’s walk, or perhaps a previous day, are reunited for a moment. New friendships are formed in interactions that seem insignificant at first glance.

It is my fourth day of walking on the Camino de Santiago. The stage from Zubiri to Pamplona begins pleasantly and relatively flat. The ease of the morning provides opportunities for lively conversations with new pilgrims, as we walk together for awhile. I spend most of the day walking with Victoria, a solo female pilgrim from Sweden.

Having experienced the healing power of the river in Zubiri, when I planned today’s walk, I made sure to mark potential river crossings. As the day continues, the heat becomes unbearable. Victoria and I stumble past a bar where the pilgrims who weren’t napping in the shade were downing beers or Aquarius (a sports drink available in most bars). Dripping with sweat under the oppressive sun, we look back with longing after I convince Victoria to walk just one kilometer longer. I had seen a river in the pilgrim’s guide, and it was just ahead.

As we continue, we have almost given up hope of finding the water, when we discover what appears to be a summer spot frequented by locals. The cool river meanders under a weathered stone bridge, lined with teenagers preparing to leap into a swimming hole below. The cool water flows on, wrapping around around a “beach” of large, smooth stones reaching toward patches of shade cast by surrounding trees.

Victoria and I waste no time. Concealed under my long hiking skirt, I strip down and change into my swimsuit. We take turns soaking in the cool water while the one of us guards our only possessions against curious hands. Once we are satisfied with our relief from the heat, we make a lunch of leftover bread and Spanish tortilla before closing our eyes for an afternoon siesta.

Neither of us has much interest in getting up to walk again, but the rest of the Camino awaits. After about an hour, we change back into our hiking clothes, slip on dusty boots, and push towards Pamplona.

At some point, Victoria and I separate. By late afternoon, I reach Trinidad de Arre, and decide to stop there rather than walk for another few hours to reach Pamplona. Coming across a medieval-era building, I realize with joy that it is an albergue run by retired Marist brothers — the founding order of my college! Rich with history, it is a humble and comfortable complex, surrounding a peaceful garden courtyard. Not many stop short of Pamplona on this stage, so I have an entire room to myself. Ah…sweet, silent sleep.

Two of the Canadians stopped here, too (my Camino twin, Penny, and her husband, Andrew). Towards evening, I come across another Canadian couple (Alvaro and Paddy) walking with their teenage son. I can tell immediately that this young man is an old soul, meant to be on the Camino. We share a late meal around metal tables outside a cafe shuttered for siesta hours, while other pilgrims we know show up and join the party.

This is a true oasis, and a memory of companionship which will help me through the grueling, lonely day that awaits tomorrow.