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ilambur, in northern Kerala's Malappuram district, is known for two things, teak plantations and magicians. There are six master wizards in town, all willing to teach you a trick or two. But no one here is better known than 'master hypnotist' Ramakrishna Malayath. He and his troupe have done thousands of shows across Kerala in the last 40 years.But Nilambur has another, albeit temporary, import nowadays. Godmen of all sizes and creeds are known to make discreet visits. They are here to learn that mystic craft—the sleight of hand. On a balmy Sunday November morning, Malayath is waiting for his latest student, a 60-plus Raja Mudaliar from Chennai who has paid Rs 15,000 for a three-day crash course. He wants to acquire that divine power—producing vibhuti (sacred ash) from thin air. (Once he masters that, he hopes to move on to pulling Sivalingas from his mouth, he tells me later).The bearded swamiji, who runs the Divine Research Centre in Chennai, wobbles in. He is dressed in a white mundu and muslin shirt, with an angavastram...