Ford’s Coyote engine mandates close attention to detail when you’re building this engine from scratch. The Coyote is extremely unforgiving of carelessness, which is why I’ve looked to the expertise of seasoned Modular engine builders (Performance Assembly Solutions and L & R Custom Engines) to show you the way to a successful engine build. Performance Assembly Solutions builds crate Coyote engines for Ford Performance Parts. L & R Custom Engines is well known around Los Angeles for its vast experience with vintage and late-model engines.

This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, FORD COYOTE ENGINES: HOW TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:

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Performance Assembly Solutions

What better place to go to learn about the proper building of the 5.0L Ti-VCT Coyote DOHC V-8 than Ford Performance Parts and Performance Assembly Solutions (PAS) located in Livonia, Michigan. This company builds high-performance Coyote crate engines for both Ford Performance Parts and Roush Performance. PAS begins with production 5.0L Ti-VCT Coyote engines shipped directly from Ford’s Essex, Ontario, engine plant, which are uncrated and built to Ford production standards as Aluminator crate engines with a warranty.

Forget what you know and believe about mass production crate engines. These 5.0L Ti-VCT engines are the same production engines that are also installed in new Mustangs and F-Series trucks. PAS employs a system of strict accountability. If any phase of teardown and reassembly is overlooked, the computerized control system halts production until the problem is found and corrected. As these engines arrive at PAS and are uncrated, they are checked in via the bar code, and reassigned a PAS bar code that follows the engine all through production.

These 5.0L Ti-VCT engines are carefully disassembled as new “never been fired” engines. All parts and components are carefully documented and placed on a cart, which is tied to the engine’s bar code. All components that came out of the engine during disassembly go back into the same engine. PAS is a custom–engine building operation that operates as an intimate assembly line; each and every technician has a job to do and has to sign his name to every phase of teardown and assembly. I’m working closely with Randall Harris, Travis Hopson, Eric Leach, and Shawn Staniszewski at PAS for this book, each with a specific task ranging from teardown to final assembly, testing, crating, and shipment.

Think of PAS as a custom engine building shop. Engines leave ready for 600 to more than 1,000 hp fitted with Mahle pistons and Manley H-beam connecting rods. PAS and Ford Performance Racing Parts ship an engine ready to go racing. You have the option of upgrading your Coyote any way you wish: hotter cams, forced induction or nitrous, and more.

Although the Coyote appears complex on the surface it really is a simple engine to build and service. What you must understand is that the Coyote, as with other Modular engines, is unforgiving of error. You must follow factory specifications and protocol while paying close attention to detail. At PAS, all components are thoroughly cleaned and prepared for reassembly as an Aluminator crate engine.

Mike Robinson, engineer at PAS, says that this is the same state-of-the-art quality-control process that Ford employs in many of its engine plants. After teardown, each block is hot-washed, rinsed, and then dried with compressed air. Cylinder bores are wiped down with light oil for corrosion prevention.

The first phase of the build process includes measuring and inspecting every single component that goes into the Aluminator engine. New Mahle forged coated pistons and Manley H-beam connecting rods are inspected and checked after being dynamic balanced. Piston rings are inspected and gapped to each bore before being fitted to pistons. The same can be said for aluminum main and rod bearings, which are fitted and measured to precise tolerances. Aside from the Manley rods and Mahle forged pistons, Ford parts are used exclusively in these Ford Performance Racing Parts Aluminator engines.

When the measuring and calibration process is complete, the block is mounted on an assembly stand and enters the assembly line, where the identification bar code is scanned into the system and each step strictly documented. Every step is monitored and recorded into a PAS database. Instructions and specifications appear on a touch screen interface and must be acknowledged as complete by the operator prior to the system allowing continuation in the build process. In addition to the electronic sign-off process, the system also records all fastener torque data,the rolling torque data, and even the leak and cold test values.

Each crank is dynamic balanced to the Manley/Mahle reciprocating mass. Think of this as a custom-engine job shop on a mass production scale, only it’s a small line with a family-like atmosphere in the heart of Livonia, Michigan.

Teardown to final build is performed by just four to six people positioned along an easy-to-manage production line where there’s solid communication between phases. One phase physically hands off to the next and people actually talk to each other. If there’s a snag in the assembly process the problem is flagged, a meeting is called, and they find a fix.

Block assembly begins with a ring end gap in each cylinder. A lot of builders gap rings to one cylinder bore and completely disregard the rest. Not PAS or FPRP. Rings are match gapped to each cylinder, and then installed on each piston. Assembled pistons are assigned to a specific cylinder. When the steel forged crank is seated, capped, and torqued to Ford specifications endplay is checked and notated.

As new Mahle pistons and Manley rods are stuffed into the block they are checked for proper fit at the crank journal, seated, and torqued to Ford specifications. Freedom of crank movement is checked with each bore. When all eight piston and rod assemblies are installed and torqued, a rolling friction test is conducted and it either passes or fails. The technician listens for abnormal sounds as the short-block rolls over. This phase of assembly receives a torque reading, which is documented into the system. Each main and rod bolt has been torqued and marked with a green marker to document this assembly procedure.

When the short-block is complete it is moved along the line to the next phase, at which cylinder heads, valvetrain, and pan are installed. Because these crate Coyote Aluminators have never been fired, gaskets and seals are intact and can be reused. Anything marginal is discarded and replaced. Next, the oil pump pick-up tube and windage tray are inspected and installed. Ford has incorporated the windage tray and pan gasket into one convenient piece for the Coyote. After the oil pump is fitted and aligned with the crankshaft without any side loading, it is torqued to specifications, ensuring the O-ring has been lubricated and properly fitted. You will notice that the Coyote engine utilizes RTV sealer at joints and seams where the oil pan meets the block and where cylinder heads and timing cover come together. This is normal and it ensures a true seal.

Cylinder head and block deck surfaces are inspected for damage and debris before the gasket goes on and heads are secured. Because stock cylinder head bolts are torque-to-yield, they are not reused. This means they are stretched and not as strong as they were, hence no reuse. If you are using ARP bolts they are not torque-to-yield and may be used again. In any case, you should install new hardware at the main caps and cylinder heads with any Coyote rebuild. These are critical areas of your Coyote’s assembly and should get the greatest attention.

The Coyote’s cylinder-head bolts reach deep into the block instead of the block deck, which means you get a better, more consistent clamp load than with the rest of the Modular engine family and conventional pushrod V-8 engines. You may also use cylinder-head studs for even greater clamp strength. However, when installed in a vehicle, cylinder head removal could prove impossible with studs. The Coyote also employs better cylinder-head gasket technology for greater sealing. Bolt-on items, such as the oil filter adaptor and oil-to-water cooler, are installed next as you make your way around the long-block.

The PAS Aluminator Build

For this build, Performance Assembly Solutions in Livonia, Michigan, is going to knock down a Coyote engine and build an Aluminator.

Disassembly: Front Dress

Step 1:

Disassembly begins the minute the engine is uncrated and enters the PAS production line. Think of a Ford Performance Aluminator crate engine as a custom-built factory production line piece.

Step 2:

The harmonic dampener is removed first and placed on a production cart that follows this engine and all its parts through the PAS Aluminator process.

Step 3:

The timing cover is carefully removed and placed in safe storage with all of the other parts. Each Aluminator crate engine and all its parts remain together throughout the entire process.

Cam Assembly

Step 1:

Ti-VCT components are carefully removed and put aside for later assembly. Cam phasers, which advance valve timing via switched and metered oil pressure, are removed.

Step 2:

Cam timing phasers are easy to remove and reinstall. In fact, if you’re doing a cam swap, the engine must be in proper time with all marks and chain links lined up during disassembly.

Step 3:

Next, camshafts are removed next and placed on the production cart. These cams go back into the same engine during assembly.

Step 4:

Each Coyote engine is identified by this series of coded markings. Think of each Coyote block as an encrypted thumbprint that cannot be identified with any other engine.

Final Disassembly

Step 1:

The rear main seal holder and seal are removed next. These items are inspected closely during assembly to ascertain condition. No one wants a rear main seal leak.

Step 2:

The main caps are removed next. Pistons, rods, and cylinder heads have already been removed.

Step 3:

Parts aren’t recklessly thrown into massive bins and used again during reassembly. Each engine is carefully disassembled and all of its parts placed on a numbered cart, which follows the engine throughout the assembly process.

Short Block Building and Blueprinting

Step 1:

New Mahle forged and coated pistons from Ford Performance Racing Parts are measured, bore-matched, and documented.

Step 2:

Manley H-beam connecting rods are preassembled with bearings and measured as shown here. Journals are also measured; then clearances are checked.

Step 3:

After all reciprocating mass has been checked, it’s time to put it all together for installation in the new Coyote block.

Step 4:

Piston ring end gaps are checked and matched to each cylinder bore. Top rings are gapped .0059 to .0098 inch. Intermediate or secondary rings are .0118 to .0216 inch. Oil control rings are .0059 to .177 inch. Ring gaps are spaced 45 degrees apart. These specs are for naturally aspirated applications. Boosted applications call for greater ring end gaps.

Step 5:

Bare Coyote blocks are mounted on industrial enginebuild stands and prepped for assembly. PAS opts for the Coyote’s original aluminum main bearings and lubricates them generously with engine-assembly lube. The block has been power washed and sprayed with an anticorrosion lubricant.

Crank and Main Bearings

Step 1:

The Coyote’s forged steel crank can take as high as 1,500 hp without breaking a sweat. The crank is set and then main caps are positioned as shown. Caps, which are numbered, should be positioned as squarely as possible with the block, and then bolts are snugged before applying torque.

Step 2:

Each main cap is numbered 1 through 5 and can be installed one way only. Main cap bolts are torqued in the proper order: outboard bolts first in numerical order from the center cap outward; then inboard main cap bolts in proper numerical order. Side bolts are torqued last in proper numerical order from the center cap outward.

Step 3:

Main caps are electrically torqued to Ford specifications. This is a foolproof system with no chance of error. The electronic torque wrench is positioned and the trigger pulled. It gets the torque spot on, and it also records the torque.

Step 4:

Crankshaft endplay is checked and documented. If it doesn’t measure up to standards, the block and crank are disassembled and each is checked to find the cause. The thrust bearing thickness at the number-5 main bearing cap is where and how you modify endplay.

Pistons and Rods

Step 1:

Mahle forged and coated pistons and Manley H-beam connecting rods are installed next, after the cylinder walls and rod bearings have been coated with assembly lube. Rods are seated to the crank journals, and then side clearances are checked once both banks are installed.

Step 2:

Connecting rod bolts are electronically torqued to Ford specifications and then side clearances are checked. Again foolproof electronic torque with documentation is used.

Step 3:

The connecting rod and main cap bolts are marked in bright green as they are torqued as a visual indication for final inspection to indicate that they have been torqued.

Step 4:

This is a mechanical rollover test to ensure that the bottom end turns freely and within specifications. If the short-block rotating assembly is too tight or there are abnormal noises it is rejected by the system and sidelined until the problem is corrected.

Oiling System Assembly

Step 1:

The oil pump pick-up is fitted with this O-ring, which is lubricated with assembly lube and fitted to the crankdriven high-volume oil pump. There is no optional high-volume oil pump. The standard pump yields abundant volume and pressure. The only option is hardened steel pump internals, which are available from Ford Performance Parts.

Step 2:

The oil pump gasket and windage tray are one integral piece, which makes installation a snap.

Step 3:

RTV sealant is used in all joints in the Coyote. This is where the pan gasket/windage tray combo meets the rear main seal cap. The same thing happens in front where the pan gasket meets the timing cover.

Step 4:

The oil filter adaptor is installed next and torqued to specifications. Here, bolts are run down with a driver and then torqued to specifications.

Step 5:

The oil-to-water cooler is installed at the oil filter adaptor. Coolant flows through this cooler. Hot engine oil heat, which runs roughly 80 degrees hotter, is transferred to the coolant, which is cooler at 200 degrees F.

Head and Cam Assembly

Step 1:

High-tech composition cylinder-head gaskets are installed next. Note the cooling passages (arrows), which vector coolant close to the exhaust valves. The Coyote engine has a rather unconventional cooling system pathway that improves exhaust valve and cylinder cooling.

Step 2:

As with the rest of the engine, cylinder-head bolts are torqued to Ford specifications in the pattern specified. This is an electronic torque wrench, which runs these bolts down to the proper torque. Torque, as well as torque-to-yield, is documented electronically into the system.

Step 3:

Cam journals are generously lubricated with assembly lube and cams are set in place. Journal caps and bolts are installed and torqued electronically in a very specific order to proper specifications. These cam journal caps cannot be tightened haphazardly because of exact tolerances. The caps are tightened slowly in proper numerical order to prevent cam distortion. The rocker arms and followers (lifters) have been installed.

Step 4:

The cam journal bolts are snugged in proper order and then torqued to Ford specifications. Cams are then checked for freedom of rotation, but are not fully rotated because of valve-to-piston clearance issues.

Step 5:

The lefthand (driver) cylinder head cams are installed and timed like this. These “D”-shaped pockets are timing marks. Intake cam “D” (left) is located at six-thirty to seven o’clock. Exhaust cam “D” (right) is at ten-thirty to eleven o’clock. When the cam phasers are installed, some adjustment is required to get cams and sprockets lined up. If they do not fit, they are not properly lined up.

Step 6:

The righthand (passenger) cylinder head cams are installed and timed per this image, with the exhaust cam (left) at five o’clock as shown and the intake cam (right) being at two o’clock. As with the left-hand (driver) cylinder head these “D” timing marks must be positioned as shown. When cam phasers are installed they should be a perfect fit. If they do not fit, cams and sprockets are not properly aligned. Again, some adjustment of the cams and/or crank is required to achieve perfect cam/sprocket alignment.

Step 7:

Here are the cam phasers/sprockets and secondary timing chains. The Coyote has just two types of phasers (intake and exhaust), which interchange from side to side. The exhaust phasers have two sprockets each. Secondary chains have timing links. The double link goes on the intake cam phaser (left). Single links are located at the exhaust cam phaser (right). This applies to both sides. Shown here is the right-hand (passenger) secondary sprocket package as seen from the engine. Note that the double link is on the left (intake) and the single link is on the right (exhaust).

Step 8:

Each camshaft has this blue filter to keep debris out of the cam phasers. It is extremely important to ensure that these filters are installed.

Timing Chain Assembly

Step 1:

Main timing chains are installed next, after the secondary cam chains on top have been installed and properly timed.

Step 2:

This is the left-hand (driver) timing chain with the marks on top. The dark chain link is a timing mark as is the mark on the phaser.

Step 3:

Down below at the crank is the gear for the left-hand (driver) timing chain. Crank gear timing marks are in green at PAS. The chain timing mark is a dark link (arrow). The crankshaft keyway is at twelve o’clock.

Step 4:

Oil pressured chain tensioners are secured via this pin during assembly. After both chains are installed and properly timed, these pins are pulled, which provides chain tension.

Step 5:

The right-hand (passenger) timing chain is installed and timed as shown here. The dark chain link is the timing mark as are the green paint daubs.

Step 6:

Here’s how the right-hand (passenger) cam chains are timed on top. The dark chain links should line up with the phaser sprocket timing mark as shown.

Step 7:

Here’s the secondary cam drive chain view and the double links on the left-hand (driver) side of engine. This is what you need to remember with the secondary chains: Double links and intake phaser sprocket marks go to the inside (intake side). Single links and phaser sprocket (dual sprocket) marks go toward the outside (exhaust side). If the cams and phasers are not in perfect alignment (in time) they will not go together. If the phasers do not seat on the cams they are out of proper time. Cams and/or phasers may have to be rotated slightly to get them in time.

Step 8:

This Ford illustration demonstrates proper main chain timing. Links and timing marks should line up on phasers and crank sprocket. (Photo Courtesy Ford Performance Parts)

Final Assembly

Step 1:

The knock sensors and harness are installed next. Each bank has one knock sensor.

Step 2:

The crank trigger “reluctor” wheel is fitted to the crank as shown. The reluctor whizzes past the crank sensor, providing real-time PCM/ECU feedback for electronic engine control.

Step 3:

This is the crank sensor, which is a Hall Effect triggering system. Replacement is easy if you ever have to do it in a car. The reluctor wheel triggers this sensor. PAS technicians install these sensors as one of the final phases of engine assembly.

Step 4:

RTV sealant is used only at joints with leak potential. Gasket technology has come a long way since the days of cork and sealer.

Step 5:

Modern gasket technology features a positive serpentine seal in the timing cover to eliminate messy and time-consuming gaskets. The seal is seated as shown.

Step 6:

This is the crankshaft/ harmonic dampener seal. As you can see, this seal has a garter spring, which mandates extreme caution. This seal should be packed full of engine assembly lube so that the garter spring cannot be jarred loose during installation. You also want abundant lubrication on this seal during start-up to prevent damage. This seal leaks without the garter spring.

Step 7:

The timing cover is installed, making sure that all seal surfaces make solid contact with the heads and block. The cover bolts should be snugged and then tightened evenly to seat the cover.

Step 8:

The water pump and cooling system plumbing are installed next. The Coyote has an unconventional cooling system. The thermostat is located at the engine inlet instead of at the outlet on top; yet the system is set up to burp air out of the coolant at the plastic “Y” in the technician’s left hand. The cylinder heads receive coolant first around the exhaust valves.

Step 9:

The harmonic dampener is installed next along with plenty of assembly lube at the crank and seal.

Step 10:

The induction system follows. This is a 2015 5.0L Coyote engine, which has Charge Motion actuators at the rear. Charge Motion was never factory installed on 2011–2014 5.0L Ti-VCT Coyote engines.

Step 11:

The PAS production line is an intimate affair in Livonia, Michigan. Think of the Ford Performance Aluminator engine as a custom-built mass-produced crate engine.

L & R Automotive

I’ve shown you the Ford Performance Parts Aluminator build program. It is time to take it to a more personal level at L & R Custom Engine Building in Gardena, California, just outside of Los Angeles. L & R is going to build a Coyote, including all of the important machining steps you need to know to build a Coyote from scratch.

L & R Automotive was established in 1977 by Larkin Ranney Jr. Larkin worked for a number of engine rebuilders before he decided to venture out on his own nearly 40 years ago. Larkin felt that he could offer better service and product to the growing automotive industry.

Larkin opened L & R Automotive out of his home garage selling engine parts and contracting out machine work. As his business grew Larkin leased a building in which to keep inventory and do business. A few years later Larkin decided to do his own machine work so he could control quality. Starting with a single Sunnen rod heater Larkin built his own machine shop. As business grew, Larkin moved into a larger building and filled the place with machines. Today, L & R Custom Engine Building is currently in a 10,000-square-foot building fitted with the latest technology in the engine rebuilding industry.

Moreover, L & R Custom Engine Building is a family-owned and -operated business that enthusiasts around Los Angeles have trusted for decades. Larkin’s sons Derek and Brent started working for the family business right out of high school. Derek Jr. (a third-generation Ranney) is now working in the business. L & R also has a great staff with abundant experience with every type of internal combustion engine imaginable. Ford’s new 5.0L Coyote is no exception. L & R is going to show you how to build the Ford Coyote, including all of the important machining steps necessary to erect an engine that will serve you well. Let’s get started.

L & R Custom Engine Coyote Build

Short Block Machine Work

Step 1:

L & R Engines in Gardena, California, has its own Coyote specialists in-house. Andre Majeau will walk you through the important details of a Coyote build.

Step 2:

Here, a customer’s Coyote block is bored prior to being torque-plate honed. L & R employs a Coyote/Modular–specific technician to build its Coyotes and Modulars because of the special care these engines require.

Step 3:

The honed block is ready for minimal milling on top and only as necessary. Deck trueness is important, as is deck thickness.

Step 4:

L & R is installing a new Ford Performance Racing Parts BOSS M-6303-M50B steel crank in this Coyote, which is being dynamic balanced at this time along with new Eagle H-beam rods and Mahle forged and coated pistons. The Coyote is internally balanced.

Short Block Blueprinting and Assembly

Step 1:

L & R Custom Engines leaves nothing to chance. The Coyote calls for precise measurements in terms of tolerances. Although this is a new FPRP BOSS, crank journals and bearings are mic’d to ascertain precise tolerances.

Step 2:

Andre stresses the importance of generous amounts of assembly lube on the Coyote’s main and rod bearings and journals. You can never have too much.

Step 3:

A fresh L & R Coyote block has been fitted with new aluminum bearings. Tri-metal bearings are not necessary in this engine, which tends to be old school. A Ford Performance Parts BOSS crank is carefully positioned.

Step 4:

Pay close attention to oil cooling piston jets during assembly. Some Coyote builds with aftermarket H-beam connecting rods have been known to hit these oil-cooling jets. As you assemble your Coyote, make sure there is no interference. You must have a minimum of .060-inch clearance.

Step 5:

Main cap bolts are torqued in one-third values to Ford specifications (see sidebar “Coyote Torque Specifications”). Outboard main cap bolts are torqued first in numerical sequence. Inboard main cap bolts follow in proper numerical sequence. Side bolts are torqued last in proper numerical sequence.

Step 6:

Main cap bolts are torqued as shown, outboard main bolts first from the center outward (yellow arrows). Inboard main cap bolts are torqued next from the center outward (orange arrows). Torque in one-third values. These are torque-to-yield bolts, which means you cannot use them again. Torque-to-yield is a measure of bolt stretch. If you are using studs or ARP bolts, torque-to-yield does not apply.

Step 7:

Main cap side bolts are snugged and torqued last, in proper order from the number-3 cap outward.

Rods and Pistons

Step 1:

L & R is using Mahle coated and forged pistons along with Eagle H-beam rods in this customer build. This provides durability in the 600- to 1,000-hp range.

Step 2:

If you are building a stock Coyote, you’re going to use hypereutectic pistons. Stock hypereutectic pistons are marked in this fashion for proper installation. This dimple goes toward the front of the engine block.

Step 3:

Piston ring end gaps are checked top, middle, and bottom of the bore to allow for taper. Cylinder bores are nearly always narrower at the bottom, even when they have been bored and honed. Always allow for bore taper. It is better to have too much ring end gap than too little. Too little ring end gap puts you at risk for engine failure.

Step 4:

Mahle coated and forged pistons are assembled onto Eagle H-beam rods. Most important here is C-clip security. Make absolutely sure the C-clip is deeply seated. Take care not to scratch the piston skirt or ring lands.

Step 5:

Aluminum rod bearings are seated as shown. The bearing tang isn’t there for security, but instead as a reference to ensure proper installation. Because skin oil is a contaminant, keep your fingertips off bearing surfaces. Note that Andre’s fingertips are on the edge of bearing surfaces.

Step 6:

The Eagle/Mahle piston/rod combo is installed as shown using a piston ring compressor. All engine builders have their preferred methods. Cylinder walls and pistons should be coated with SAE 30–weight engine oil or assembly lube; never install dry.

Cylinder Heads and Final Assembly

Step 1:

Composition head gaskets are installed next after ensuring all deck surfaces are hospital clean. Andre has installed ARP studs for improved cylinder head security. Studs are the best choice for clamping power. Studs should never be bottomed out; instead, they should be just shy of the bottom of the bolt bore. If you’re planning head removal in-vehicle, consider using head bolts instead because removal becomes impossible in the vehicle if you use studs.

Step 2:

You have two basic choices when it comes to Coyote oil pumps: original equipment high-volume or steel internals for extreme applications where durability is more critical. L & R has opted for a stock replacement oil pump for this street Coyote.

Step 3:

Coyote 12-mm hydraulic lash adjustors and rocker arms are inspected for abnormal wear or damage. These are extremely rugged pieces that can withstand 1,000 to 1,500 hp and upwards of 9,000 rpm or more.

Step 4:

The cylinder head torqueing sequence for the Coyote must be followed to the letter to ensure uniform gasket compression and deck contact; it must be performed in one-third values. The cam journal torque sequence is also critical (shown here) and must be followed to prevent cam distortion and engine damage. Slowly run these bolts down in proper numerical order from the center caps outward until the journal caps seat. Then apply proper torque and then torque-to-yield with factory bolts. These torque-to-yield bolts cannot be used a second time. You must install new bolts whenever you perform a cam swap.

Step 5:

The harmonic dampener should be lubed around the seal contact surface. Where the dampener meets the crankshaft, use a very thin film of Permatex’s The Right Stuff to prevent oil leaks around the dampener.

Written by Jim Smart and Posted with Permission of CarTechBooks

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