Mazda skimped on shift/parking brake boots, unacceptable to me for a 30k plus car new to have plastic/vinyl boots (even my VWs in a similar price range came with leather) so I decided to replace with leather boots. I sourced them from Top Gaiters eBay store, I had used them once before in my daughter's car and they are a good value with an OE-like fit and look. For the later NC2 cars, console removal only requires three screws to be removed (hiding under various trim), power window switch connectors unplugged, parking brake boot removed, and finally console can be lifted up in the front to release press-fit snaps. The power window switch plugs can be tough to get unplugged, there is a tiny release that needs to be pressed on the bottom of the small plug and on the right (US passenger) side of the larger plug.

Boots are a simple R&R and come with the same alignment holes that the OE boots have for assembly, process noted in pics below. The console diagram below illustrates how the pieces go together for NC1 Miatas, the difference for NC2 Miatas is the lack of screws in front where clips are used instead.

My wife and I decided to try out the stock Miata in the North GA mountains before making any mod decisions. Our usual route is to take HWY 60 to HWY 180 (Wolf Pen Gap) to HWY 129 loop as detailed in a map HERE that Frank in the Lotus club drew and tagged for us. The car did surprisingly well, but I have to agree with forum members that the suspension will be the first thing replaced along with some better brake pads

I forgot my camera and the one I borrowed had the date/time stamp turned on - just pretend they are not there.

Moddiction Anvil Textured Shift Knob installed. This is a heavier weight knob that smoothes out shifts a bit and I prefer the round shape over the OE shift knob (which is also weighted, but not as much). The height of the knob can be adjusted with the included nuts/lock washer.

I decided to tap into the auxiliary power to hardwire my Valentine 1 (V1) radar detector and phone dock for my HTC Thunderbolt Android phone. To install the Thunderbolt phone dock I sourced a Kuda mount, I had used and been happy with this solution in the Mini.

The header piece has to be loose and the a-pillar trim piece removed to run wiring down to the fusebox. Two bolts on the top latch plate are removed using a T40 socket, the single bolt holding the header trim is removed using a T30 socket. The a-pillar is then unsnapped and lifted up and out, the header panel is unsnapped on the driver side. Wiring can be run across the header panel trim and down the a-pillar- I used tape to hold the wire in place. Trim panels reinstalled after mounting radar detector and checking wire length/position again.

Next step to installing both of the above is to locate the power source, I chose the fusebox auxiliary power connection to tap into. There are various ways to tap into power and I will let you decide the way that works best for you: solder, crimps, taps (aka Scotch Locks), Littelfuse Add-A-Circuit, or Access-A-Fuse. The fusebox trim is removed by removing a plastic rivet and a hook under the door seal, it can then be unsnapped at top. Once the trim piece is removed the fuse blocks can be accessed, easy to do as they slide back and off the mounting post for access. I elected to use the fused side of the circuit which is the yellow wire. There is a grounding block conveniently located next to the fuse block, I used this bolt for my ground as well (10mm socket to loosen). Both the phone power adapter and V1 power adapter block were neatly tucked out of the way before reinstalling the fuse block trim.

The Kuda installation instructions were used to install the Kuda mount, power adapter wire was run to the dock from the fusebox location and zip tied along the way to ensure no contact with moving parts. The Kuda base required a few notches with the Dremel tool as did the speaker mount and grill to accomodate the power adapter wiring. E6000 Industrial Adhesive was used to attach the dock to the Kuda mount, it is strong enough to provide a lasting bond but if another dock is desired at some point in the future a credit card can be used to separate the two pieces and remove the adhesive. The dock was lined up and taped into place until dry, cure time is overnight and optimally 48 hours. Now I have ready access to the phone and Google navigation





3M Crystalline 40 Window Tint (reviews HERE) and 3M Paint Protection Film installed by Sun and Shield Automotive Films. A one stop shop for all of the things I needed for the Miata, Mike was great explaining the options available and the service and value were outstanding

I got the bumper, headlights, half hood, half fender, mirrors, door handles, and rocker panels paint protected and then had the windows tinted including a small strip across the front window to conceal the radar detector suction cups. Looks great and should keep the paint in great shape and the car cool.

Sway bars from Flyin' Miata installed. These bars are larger and adjustable. I used the Flyin' Miata installation instructions in part, the Cobalt installation instructions for their idea of not removing anything other than the wheels/sensor brackets to R&R the front bar, and the MazdaSpeed installation instructions for torque specs. The front bar R&R was quick (maybe 30 minutes), I did find popping the hood and reaching in from the top to help guide the sway bar around the radiator fan during installation made it quicker- and a helper makes this job way easier.

The rear bar would have been even faster but the brackets for the sway bar bushings did not work well with the factory nuts, I ended up using a vice to slightly "adjust" the brackets so that I could tighten the nuts without a lot of interference with the brackets. You can see in the pics where the nut makes contact with the bracket and does not allow it to seat flat when tightened in addition to preventing it from tightening all the way. I forwarded these pics to FM so they can review and see if they may have a QC issue.

Sway bars are a must-do first mod, the car is more planted and a lot flatter in corners. Eventually I will get the springs and dampers from FM to complete the Stage 2 suspension but sway bars are a great start if you don't want to make the larger investment in the complete package at first. A first for me out of all of the companies I have purchased aftermarket from, FM called and left a message before my installation began to see if I needed any assistance or had any questions as an uninitiated post sale follow-up .

[UPDATE] The fix is in for the rear bushing issue- new bushings that work with the OE brackets.



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