You know Brazil, right? You love Brazil—the warm, turquoise waters of Bahia; the sunny beaches of Rio; the windswept surf of Trancoso. You know samba and bossa nova, maybe even forro. What you probably don't know is Brazilian oysters—great oysters. But that's about to change. On the little-known island of Florianópolis in the southern state of Santa Catarina, the waters are cool and crystalline, free of surfers and skimpily clad bathers—and teeming with what chefs and foodies are calling the best oysters in the world.

For years now, Santa Catarina oysters have been one of Brazil’s best-kept secrets, guarded fiercely by locals determined to preserve quality and sustainability. Oyster farming came to Florianópolis in the late 1980s as an experiment for local small-scale fishermen, who were struggling to survive on fishing alone. To their surprise, the oysters turned out beautifully—fat and firm, with a creamy texture, and a mildly briny, zesty flavor. A small industry was born.

“Santa Catarina has the best oysters because of the cold sea current coming in from southern Brazil and Patagonia,” explains Tuscan-born chef Paolo Lavezzini, who helms the kitchen at the popular Fasano Al Mare restaurant in Rio de Janeiro. “The lower temperature contributes to the growth of succulent, tasty, and iodized oysters, which really maintain the flavor of the ocean.”

In addition to cooler water temperatures, Lavezzino says Santa Catarina is blessed with a unique and richly biodiverse marine environment that shapes the quality and flavor of the oysters. “The characteristics of the seawater and seabed here enable the proliferation of oysters that are really delicious,” he says. “That’s why we only use oysters from Santa Catarina at Fasano Al Mare.”

Legendary Brazilian chef Alex Atala of São Paulo’s D.O.M. restaurant—the first and only Brazilian restaurant to receive two Michelin stars—is also a fan of Catarinense oysters. “I’ve worked with Santa Catarina oysters for many years and I’m very fond of them,” says Atala. “Santa Catarina, specifically Florianópolis, has a very unique geographic condition that’s perfect for raising crassostrea gigas, [Brazil’s primary oyster variety, which originated in Japan]. We also have *crassostrea brasiliana,*a native flat-shelled variety that grows in mangroves and carries that unique flavor note with it.”

Sadly for foodies, Catarinense oysters aren't widely available outside of Brazil—the industry's still in its infancy, with no immediate plans for large-scale expansion. There are no big companies, only small farmers organized into associations and cooperatives, producing oysters mainly for their own restaurants or to sell to restaurants in larger cities like São Paulo and Rio. As a result, Santa Catarina may never reach the level of renown enjoyed by other oyster capitals like Brittany or Maine—and that’s perfectly fine with locals.

“I think our oysters are starting to be compared to excellent oysters from other places, but they are still under the radar and probably will be for a long time,” admits José Nero, chef at the award-winning Ponta dos Ganchos resort in Florianópolis.

So how can you get your hands on some? Follow Nero's advice and visit Santa Catarina, where you can enjoy them at the source, dining beside the very ocean from which they came. “The best way to eat our oysters is stewed in coconut milk, palm oil, and cilantro; with a cucumber, red onion, and mint vinaigrette; or fresh with a squeeze of lemon,” says Nero. "And of course, a caipirinha on the side."