Final Problem 1’s

Due to the aforementioned power outage, I only saw the first-seeded Alex Puccio and Alexey Rubtsov on their finals problem 1. Alex got to the bonus and went on to send on her 5th try. Alexey sent on his 6th, though he got the bonus on his 3rd.

Problem 1 scores (competitors ranked as of prob 1, no countbacks yet):

Men Women

1. Kilian Fischhuber (f) 1. Akiyo Noguchi (f)

2. Alexey Rubtsov (t6 b3) 1. Juliane Wurm (f)

3. Thomas Caleyron (b1) 1. Melissa Le Neve (f)

3. Nicky De Leeuw (b1) 1. Katharina Saurwein (f)

5. Cédric Lachat (b2) 5. Anna Stöhr (t2 b2)

6. Daniel Woods (b4) 6. Alex Puccio (t5 b5)

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Final Problem 2’s

As you can see above, coming into problem 2 the women’s field was a 4-way tie for first and the men’s not too far behind though Kilian’s flash makes him the clear front-runner.

Men’s 2

Press-gaston-match to drop-down to foot swing to grab the edge of the wall and l heel or toe to rock up to the bonus hold to match to…? Nobody got past the bonus hold.

Women’s 2

Mantle to triangle volume to blob to huge blue circle volume to powerful move left to the bonus blog, then leg-wrapping and a little crimp to a balancy? stand-up to the last hold.

Final problem 2 scores (this problem only)

Men Women

1. Alexey Rubtsov (b1) 1. Akiyo Noguchi (b1)

2. Cédric Lachat (b3) 2. Juliane Wurm (b2)

3. Daniel Woods (b7) 3. Anna Stöhr (b3)

4. Kilian Fischhuber (-) 4. Alex Puccio (b4)

4. Thomas Caleyron (-) 5. Melissa Le Neve (-)

4. Nicky De Leeuw (-) 5. Katharina Saurwein (-)

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Final Problem 3’s

Alexey and Kilian are fighting for first, with Kilian’s 1t1 1b1 and Alexey’s 1t6 2b4. There are two more problems so anyone can still come out and win it, but these two are definitely in the lead. For the women, everyone did problem 1 and nobody did problem 2, so at the moment ranking is down to bonus holds and attempts to bonus. Akiyo is slightly ahead with 1t1 2b2, but Juliane Wurm is right on her heels with 1t1 2b3.

Men’s 3

Run-and-jump to power move to sorta-big move out left with a slightly difficult last match.

Women’s 3

Powerful first move to a twisting up volumes to the bonus hold (all flashed this far) to a hard final match that spit off 3 of the competitors.

Final 3 scores (this problem only, not cumulative)

Men Women

1. Kilian Fischhuber (t2 b2) 1. Akiyo Noguchi (t1 b1)

1. Daniel Woods (t2 b2) 2. Melissa Le Neve (t2 b1)

1. Thomas Caleyron (t2 b2) 2. Alex Puccio (t2 b1)

4. Cédric Lachat (t3 b3) 4. Juliane Wurm (b1)

4. Nicky De Leeuw (t3 b3) 4. Katharina Saurwein (b1)

6. Alexey Rubtsov (t7 b7) 4. Anna Stöhr (b1)

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Final Finals (Problem 4’s)

After the first 3 problems Kilian and Akiyo are ahead but neither are unbeatable, and several other competitors are still in the running for 1st, 2nd and 3rd places. It’s always exciting when the comp comes down to the last problem for both categories!

Men’s 4

Power move off small holds (in the Climbing Works logo) to a leg swing and difficult mantle (part of the difficulty was keeping their left flagging foot from smearing out-of-bounds) to a balancy stand-up to a blob to a double clutch left to two more blobs to a final move even more left to one more blob.

Women’s 4

Start at the Decathalon logo, up to two sidepully looking things, dyno or long static move to the blue orb stuck in the orange volume, big power move left to the next gray hold (bouted two competitors), then match, swing feet left, cross under to other volume/jib, around corner to left crimp (b), right hand undercling jib on triangle volume, balancy move to match the finish?

Problem 4 scores (not final ranking, just performance on this problem):

Men Women

1. Cédric Lachat (t2 b1) 1. Akiyo Noguchi (b1)

2. Kilian Fischhuber (b1) 1. Alex Puccio (b1)

2. Daniel Woods (b1) 3. Anna Stöhr (b2)

2. Thomas Caleyron (b1) 4. Melissa Le Neve (b3)

2. Nicky De Leeuw (b1) 5. Juliane Wurm (-)

6. Alexey Rubtsov (b2) 5. Katharina Saurwein (-)

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So, who won? It’s not done by averages, it’s like all Bouldering World Cups–# of tops, attempts to top, # of bonus holds, attempts to bonus holds. When it shook out it was Akiyo and Kilian on the top of the podium. For full final ranking scroll down to the next post or click here: IFSC Bouldering World Cup Sheffield Final Results