



This is an Elegantissima arborvitae hedge that we have used to buffer the street in front of our home. Note the strenght of this plant even with a heavy snow load. The only problem that this hedge has is salt spray from the road. Its a real sound barrier to a busy road which is only 18' from our door. The hedge is 15-18' high and only 4' wide. We have these arbs form 2-3' to 6-8' B&B.





This past spring my neighbor noticed that our arbs have produced mini-like pinecone looking nuggets, which are bronze in color, all over its branches. Some of them dried up and fell off, but most remained. He asked me if they could be lacking acid. He insisted that this was not the normal. He could easily see that there is plenty of new growth. He is worrying needlessly. The fruiting bodies are an indication of the plant�s maturity. Some are more prolific at producing than others. As long as the plants are maintaining their rich full green color there is nothing to worry about. Plants & Trees at Highland Hill Farm In the past week there has been an increasing interest in landscape design for energy conservation. Rising fuel costs can be offset by landscaping. The primary goal is to control wind and sun. In Pa. the first line of defence for energy savings is protection from the cold winter winds by the use of landscaping. Research shows that properly designed screens and buffers can reduce the heating cost of a typical residence by as much as 30 percent. Arborvitae can work to also help cut your heating costs by using them for a wind screen. Arborvitae For Winter Fuel Saving There have been studies that show that wind speeds around homes can be reduced by as much as 90%. The best design for windbreaks depends on the use and exact location of the site. However, in most of Pa. the prevailing winds are from the northeast, thus, the maximum protection should be concentrated in the north east. A single row of conifers with staggered spacings is the best for protection from both wind and blowing snow. The wind is deflected up and over the screen, creating a well protected zone. The area of maximum protection can extend outward several times the height of the trees. If space is at a premium, fewer plants will be helpful, but the use of conifers and other densely branched species is essential for maximum winter protection.arborvitae make an excellent choice for providing winter protection. Arborvitae are commonly used evergreens useful in urban areas where low maintenance and durability is needed. Many cultivars with forms such as being globed in shape, columnar, or narrow pyramidal, tend to be near buildings, doors, and walkways. Other forms which are larger are used for screens and buffers that are planted in rows. The form of arborvitae is small, medium, or large depending on the cultivar. Some reach 50', others only 3'. Even small Arborvitae can help breakup the wind and drifting snows of winter. Most prefer full sun to partial sun. Planting in dense shade conditions should be avoided. A moist, well drained, loamy soil in full sunlight are ideal conditions for growing healthy arborvitae. These plants will tolerate rocky, clay, urban conditions of heat drought and pollution. The most important pest we have is bagworms which must be controlled to prevent complete defoliation. Some cultivars have multiple leaders which also prove to be a detraction for the plant. Pruning out multiple leaders in some cultivars is a simple remeady. The ease in planting and maintaining this plant make it an ideal choice for planting around the house. Plant shrubs with wind direction in mind. Since south winds are generally warmer than northeast winds, it is considered sufficient to have moderate protection on the east and desirable to leave the south open or restricted to rows of shrubs and deciduous trees. More openness to the south allows solar gain in the winter and for summer ventilation house. The economic incentive of reduced heating costs is additional to known benefits of reduced snow clearing. While most homes have at least some naturally treed areas or planted screens protecting their yard, the full potential benefit from tree planting is far from being realized. Energy conservation is a growing concern. Current studies confirm what fuel oil dealers have known all along, homes with screens and buffers use considerably less fuel. The time to begin planning for an energy conscious future is now. The Green Giant Arborvita The hardiness zone for the green giant arborvita is from zones 5 to 8. It is an evergreen with rapid growth rates that in ideal conditions can be up to 3 feet per year. Site requirements for the green giant is sun to partial shade, moist well drained soil but does well in clay, and needs protection from wind . Its texture is fine with its form conical being narrow to broadly pyramidal, reaching from 50 to 80' in height to 15 to 20 feet in width. The leaf is rich, green,with graceful foliage. It keeps its foliage color in the winter. the green giants flowers/fruit are .5" erect female cones. The green giant has strong wood, casts dense shade,and has cinnamon red bark when young. This arborvita does not tolerate salt spray. This arborvita should outlive even your children. Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana) An evergreen shrub or tree in the Cypress Family (Cupressaceae) My first real adventure with Eastern Red Cedar happened on the farm I grew up on. It was located south of Lambertville N.J. on the Delaware River. Our farm was located on a mountainside and it had been clear cut more than 75 years before. Cedars were like pioneer invaders, Cedars would take over in areas were there were clear-cuts, abandoned fields, places where topsoil had been scraped off and generally were other plants had a tough time becoming established.It didn't mind clay or rocks and here the Cedars found a home. Over the years, other trees took hold and the cedars continued to grow. After many years, the oaks nearby began to tower over the Cedars and the Cedars began to decline. One Cedar caught my eye one day while hunting. I had heard that Cedars were valuable for wood to make cedar chests, closet linings, cedar shaveings, and fence posts. I knew the lumber was selling for a over a dollar a board foot. Forty years ago that was a lot on money to a farm boy and I couldn't let that get away. I figured that this tree had to be 25 feet up without a branch, and was almost 3 feet at the base. Now you can do the math, this was something I had to do. I went to the barn and got the chain saw and went up to the cedar and began to cut it down. It didn't take long and I realized that it was hollow. So I figured I would continue. Maybe the tree would be solid up a few feet and my money tree would be. With a big crash the giant was slayed. I proceed to cut up the top of the tree and to my supprise it was a bee tree. A colony of honey bees had made its home inside this tree. So now I began plan B. I decided to join the 4-H and this colony of bees became my first beehive. So now whenever I see a large Cedar Tree I think of my money tree.



Cedars serve as wind breaks, and are good trees to help with erosion control. Red Cedars are really in the Juniper Family and are related to Arborvitae and False Cypress, and are representative of the many landscape Junipers. Most full grown Cedars you find will be from 30-35 feet tall and with diameter of 15 feet. The best examples of full grown cedars are usually found in cemetarys. Here they are in the open and the grounds are maintained around them, they grow to exhibit their full form and devolpment. Red Cedars are a rugged plant. Cedars can tolerate fertile, sterile, rocky, sandy, clay, dry, or moist but well drained places. This plant likes to be neglected and will grow under harsh conditions including smog, reflected light and intense heat in urban locations.

The only pests that I really worry about are bagworms.CHECK YOUR ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS FOR BAGWORMS. These can defoliate your nursery stock. June is time to start looking. It's time to inspect junipers, arborvitae and pines .... even broadleaf shrubs and trees like rose, sycamore, willow, beech, maple, elm and black locust. The bagworm gets its name from its spindle-shaped bag that the caterpillar carries around as it feeds on your plants. The bag is woven from silk and is covered with bits and pieces of leaves and twigs from the your plant. The bag of a worm feeding on juniper will not look the same as the bag of a worm feeding on willow. Ultimate size will be slightly over one innh and hang down on the plant. The larva itself is dark brown with a yellow head and yellow and black spots on the body. You will have a tough time opening up the bag to see it. Adult females are wingless and lack usuable legs, eyes and antennae. They are almost maggot-like, and seldom seen. Adult males are typical moths, black and densely hairy. Wings are nearly clear with a span of about an inch. I have never seen one in our nurseries only in pictures. The problem with bagworms is that they defoliate them. Heavy populations kill will an ornamental arborvitae and juniper. But control is possible. The larvae hatch from overwintering eggs in the spring usually in May. Each larvae spins a silken bag that it carries about while it feeds on the plants foliage. As it inlarges, the larva enlarges the bag as it keeps adding bits of foliage as camouflage. Many people don't know that the bag is there because it looks like a seed pod on shrub or tree. Because the larval stage is the only mobile stage, one bush can have a high population and another one several feet away can be free of bagworms. Several parasites feed on bagworms. Birds eat them and the worms can be killed by low winter temperatures. A very effective control is to pick the bags off the host plant in the winter. Young bagworms are especially sensitive to the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis. This is commercially available under the trade name Dipel. The disease caused by the bacterium affects only the moth larvae and is very safe to use. Always read and follow label directions before treatment. Best results will be obtained when spraying in late afternoon or early evening. Treat early when you first notice the bagworms, since small larvae are easier to kill. Other insecticides which will control bagworms include acephate (Orthene) and carbaryl (Sevin). There are some mites, midges and bettles that can be problematic. Rusts, make the tree unsightly don't harm this tree but can effect other plants such as pines and apple trees. If you are looking for a hardy, native evergreen, for a constrution or landscape site that needs little care, this is your tree. We have plenty of seedlings and B&B trees upto 6' ready for your pickup. Its best to call in advance if you want more than 10 as we will dig them fresh for you.

