Over the past few years, Mrs. Bowes said, she and her husband talked about whether they should stop the ham-stuffing parties. They were both getting old, and the kitchen was always so crowded when they set up the table. Still, the idea that the family tradition might end made them sad.

“You wonder, if Mom and Dad die, are the kids going to take it up?” Mrs. Bowes said.

At least one is. For the past few years, their son Matt, who works for the electric company and has four children of his own, has been slowly learning the craft. In fact, last Christmas his father acted more like an executive chef, giving final approval to his son’s stuffing.

This Christmas, for the first time, Matt will be on his own at the table. Standing in his parents’ kitchen a few weeks ago, the thought brought a lump to his throat.

“I’m ready,” he said. “At least, I think I’m ready.”

Recipe: Stuffed Ham, Southern Maryland-Style

And to drink ...

My first inclination is to pair this sweet and savory stuffed ham with a platter of fresh biscuits. Even then, we’ll still need something to drink. Riesling is just the thing, especially the versatile spätlese riesling from Germany, which has just enough sweetness to ward off any spicy kick in the stuffing, balanced by refreshing acidity. If you shy away from sweetness in wine, try a dry riesling from Germany or, maybe even better, from Austria, where the rieslings have a little more body. You could also drink sparking wine. Brut Champagne would be great, as would a good Champagne-style sparkler from elsewhere in France, Italy or the United States. Sparkling Vouvray would be delicious, too. For reds, try a village-level Burgundy or a restrained pinot noir. ERIC ASIMOV

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