LOUISVILLE bolts into the public eye for 120 seconds each May, but there is more to this courtly city on the Ohio River than the Kentucky Derby. The last decade has seen a cultural and civic blooming, with new galleries, restaurants and performance spaces taking their place alongside the city’s already robust roster of seductions. Entire neighborhoods — Butchertown, for instance, and East Market — have been reimagined as engines of cultural and culinary expression. Regardless of the changes, Derby City retains its easy charm — a glass of fine bourbon and good conversation aren’t hard to find. And for the record, it’s pronounced “LOU-uh-vull.”

Friday

6 p.m.

1) GETTING ACQUAINTED

More than 45 different watering holes line the roughly two miles of the Bardstown Road-Baxter Avenue corridor, from elegant restaurants to sticky-floored dives. Sandwiched among them are cafes, galleries specializing in regional ceramics and woodwork, and shops selling vintage clothing and jewelry, musical instruments and Louisville-themed curiosities. A welcome addition is the Holy Grale (1034 Bardstown Road; 502-459-9939; holygralelouisville.com). Recently opened in a century-old church, this dark, snug tavern with a polished bar running its length, offers a selection of fine beers, including 20 rare drafts like the unpasteurized Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier Urbock, a dark beer that is surprisingly light despite its smoky, chocolate flavor. Chorizo tacos ($5) offer a fiery complement.

8:30 p.m.

2) BOOTLEGGERS AND GRITS

Jack Fry’s (1007 Bardstown Road; 502-452-9244; jackfrys.com) opened in 1933 as a haven for bootleggers and bookies, and has remained a popular dining spot, with its classic Old South atmosphere and original décor. A collection of ’30s era photographs — including shots of the 1937 flood that devastated downtown and prompted development in the eastern, now more affluent, sections of town — adorns the walls, and a discreet jazz trio performs in the corner. These days the restaurant focuses on subtle reinventions of Southern staples. Try the shrimp and grits with red-eye gravy and country ham ($11) followed by lamb chops in a rosemary natural jus with shiitakes and thyme ($30).

10:30 p.m.

3) A LITTLE NIGHT MUSIC

From Will Oldham and Slint to My Morning Jacket, Louisville’s music scene echoes throughout the world. Even if you’re not lucky enough to catch Mr. Oldham or MMJ in one of their local appearances, with talent like Wax Fang, Cheyenne Mize, Seluah and Joe Manning you can always find something to spirit you away. Zanzabar (2100 South Preston Street; 502-635-9227; zanzabarlouisville.com) offers cheap whiskey at the horseshoe-shaped bar while you catch one of the city’s (or country’s) comers on the intimate stage. Closing time here — as almost everywhere in Louisville — is 4 a.m.