You might have heard of dal pakwaan, the Sindhi breakfast of champions, but have you heard of the dal moong sandwich? It is a bit of an insider’s secret and is often served as prasad at temples frequented by Sindhis or sold out of carts located in areas such as Ulhasnagar and Chembur in Mumbai which have a high concentration of Sindhis.

The Mumbai sandwich with a difference

Who:

A dal moong sandwich cart that many Chembur locals vouch for is the one run by young Jitendra Jarkani. You will find him at his cart every morning, cheerfully feeding his loyal customers. He belongs to the third generation of the family that has been running this Chembur neighbourhood favourite. He took on the role after his father, the late Harish Jarkani, passed on. The cart was originally started by Jitendra’s grandfather, the late Bhojraj Jarkani, who came to Mumbai after the Partition, and started the business to provide for his family. Over the years, the humble cart that he started became a much-loved part of the locality that once gave him refuge. The late Bhojraj Jarkani, called ‘Bhojo’ by the kids who would flock to him after school, would cook the food himself. As did his son and daughter-in-law. Mama Jarkani still cooks the food every morning before Jitendra and his team get it over to the cart and start the business for the day. Such is the pull that Sindhis who have moved on from Chembur still return for the dal moong sandwich at Jitendra’s. The legacy of Bhojo is in good hands.

What:

The dal moong sandwich consists of a mix of dals that are sandwiched in naram pav and served. Three types of dals—green moong, yellow moong and channa dal—are slow-cooked individually in vessels called ‘sipri’ every morning. The sipris are then placed on the cart once the dals are cooked.

The three dals are mixed together, when orders are placed, and the mix is then slid into sliced pav along with the green coriander-and-mint chutney, with raw onion added for astringency. The yellow moong is cooked in turmeric with ghee and a hint of black pepper or red chilli powder. The channa dal with turmeric, asafoetida, cumin and coriander. The whole green moong has some garam masala too. Like streetfood superstars the world over, the Jarkhani’s have their own ‘family mix’ of spices of course. At times a touch of aamchur (dried mango powder) is added for that extra zing.

Good to know: Apart from the pav, the dal moong mix combines beautifully with the thick and crunchy masala paratha-like Sindhi flatbread called koki.

Where: In the by-lane down Sattu Sweets at Chembur Colony, Mumbai. Ask locals or follow the crowd once there.

When: 9am to 10.30am, or till stocks last