Many years ago we wrote about rosé as if it was from a distant constellation. People were drinking white zinfandel then and thought, surely, it’s was the sweet blush wine to which we were referring. Ugh. Alas, we were really trying to distance the dry French rosé from sweet wines that sported the same color. No one really noticed or cared, so our rosé was left in the dust.

Today, however, rosés are more than just discovered – they are exploited. Just about every winemaker from every country we know is making a rosé to stay up with consumer demands for this fun summer drink.

Unfortunately, not everyone is making good rosé. A consumer who could once depend on a Provence rosé made from grenache, syrah, cinsault and mourvedre has to wade through rosés from California, Italy and South America made from pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, malbec, barbera, merlot and more.

Different grapes, different hues, different regions and even a different winemaking process has meant that just about anything goes when it comes to making rosé. And it’s that simplicity that have given producers an oversized palette to craft their rosés.

Alas, prices of rosé have risen as their popularity has grown. A rosé from France generally cost less than $15, but on the West Coast we’re seeing rosés for more than $20 a bottle. These expensive versions offer a lot more complexity – but is complexity what you’re looking for in a light summer quaffer?

The color of rosé is as varied as the grapes. The color is determined by the length of time the grape skins are I contact with the juice.

There’s nothing like rosé on a warm summer day on the patio or boat. If you have friends around, you better have several bottles. Besides being a good sipping wine, it goes well with fish, fowl and other summer fare. Here are 20 great rosés to get you started.