It's a holiday that fuels debate: "stuffing" or "dressing," how to whisk the gravy, who says grace. Much of it, of course, is food-related, and it can get pretty perplexing. (Just ask the Times's new Thanksgiving "help line.") Which gave us the wise idea last year to survey a group of well-known chefs on some of the most pressing matters. As it turns out, there is no right way to do it all, and plenty of room for individual taste: About half like marshmallows on their sweet potatoes, half don't. Nicholas Stefanelli of Bibiana prefers some pork fat on his turkey. And quite a few have ruined the bird at one point or another (see above). Which is comforting to know, in a way. Every family has its unbroken traditions, but the most dependable element of any holiday gathering is surprise. Here's a little inspiration for getting it right.

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