We would like to think that the muscle car hobby is made up of honest, earnest, like-minded enthusiasts who will willingly help out their fellow hobbyists, especially when it comes time for a vehicle to change hands. Unfortunately, horror stories abound of dishonest transactions orchestrated by some lowlife seller. True bargains are scarce, but bogus sellers seem to lurk around every corner. Please consider a few friendly suggestions.

If the purchase of a project muscle car is imminent, make sure you become an informed consumer if you aren't one already. Decide on a model, then become an expert on the equipment offered, the most desirable version of the car, and the production numbers built by the manufacturer. This information and more is readily available on just about any flavor of muscle car. You would be wise to get your hands on all the information you will need to ascertain the provenance, authenticity, condition, and value of your potential buy. Consider hiring an expert to accompany you to check out your muscle car project prospect.

For example, take this wannabe 1970 AAR 'Cuda painted sometime back in the early 1980s. Paul Kilker purchased what is actually a 1970 340 'Cuda a number of years ago. Though aesthetically challenged, the 'Cuda is, in fact, an excellent candidate for a full rotisserie restoration. It retains its complete, born-with drivetrain, including the 340ci/275hp engine, four-speed transmission, and High Performance Axle Package, which includes a 3.91 axle ratio and Sure-Grip differential.

The 'Cuda was originally painted in EF8 (commonly referred to as F8) Ivy Green Metallic with black hockey-stick stripe. It retains all its original body panels and has never been hit. The AAR attempt was halfhearted at best, but fortunately, the previous owner left the engine compartment and original components unmolested.

When muscle cars were manufactured, the factories not only assigned each one a distinct Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) but also stamped or printed that VIN (or part of it) in a number of key places on the vehicle. This helps today's collector authenticate a car and determine how much equipment is original to the car. Heard the term numbers-matching? This is it.

The VIN of his 'Cuda is BS23H0B275558, which decodes like this:

B = Barracuda

S = Special, 'Cuda

23 = Two-door hardtop

H = 340ci/275hp engine

0 = 1970 model

B = Hamtramck, Michigan, assembly plant

The remaining numbers are the car's sequential production number.

The 'Cuda's VIN appears on the original window sticker, build sheet, and owner's title. Additionally, the VIN or partial VIN is on the door Mylar sticker, dashboard, cowl, radiator support, fender tag, engine block, and transmission. The original warranty card, any extra dealership documents, or older receipts that include the VIN are a great addition to establishing provenance. Paul Kilker has the original title and the 1970 Chrysler broadcast sheet, which he found under the back seat.

Do not assume that a car is genuine simply because the owner reports it as such. Examine all stampings and markings closely. Scoundrels will not think twice about swapping VIN tags or welding in stampings from other cars simply to increase the value of a lesser model. For that reason, a verified original car like Kilker's is quite the find, and an excellent candidate for restoration.

Be forewarned: A swapped VIN is big legal trouble. If the VIN plate has been tampered with or looks odd, do not purchase the car.

The same applies to the fender tag, which on a Chrysler product like this 'Cuda, lists the options originally put on the car. There are a number of sources for new reproduction fender tags, concerning which I will withhold comment. Tampering with a fender tag doesn't come with the same legal ramifications as tampering with a VIN, but it certainly affects the value of the car. Always ask to see the original fender tag.

Though his attention is typically directed towards his collection of top-shelf Pontiac products, Kilker intends to restore the 'Cuda. I would estimate that his 1970 'Cuda, as pictured, is worth something around $30,000 in today's market. He gave me a guided tour of the highlights of this E-Body Mopar, which turned out to be an education in E-Body authentication. The information presented here will be invaluable for assessing the viability of purchasing and restoring your vehicle.

See all 21 photos 1 Initial inspection will typically include taking the car out in the sun to check for body fitment and door gaps, dents, and telltale signs of rust and bodywork. The dull lime-green paint hides much, so imperfections might be better detected by running your hand over a suspicious area.

See all 21 photos 2 When Paul Kilker bought the 'Cuda, he found the trunk to be a treasure trove of miscellaneous parts, including the original 26-inch radiator and OE exhaust manifolds. He also purchased a correct Carter AVS 4933S carburetor and correct unsilenced air cleaner assembly. The engine runs, and the car is drivable. The engine compartment retains the factory EF8 Ivy Green Metallic paint, fender tag, inspection marks, and radiator decal.

See all 21 photos 3 Though the interior is ragged and equipped with incorrect seats, it is fairly complete. Kilker has located correct 1970 bucket seats. The Rallye Gauge cluster is a big plus. The Pistol-Grip shifter is standard factory issue, but you already knew that.

See all 21 photos 4 This 'Cuda is not an original elastomeric bumper car. The original chrome bumpers were painted body color to simulate the elastomeric bumper look. Since both bumpers are relatively straight, a proper rechroming might be the best course of action. Fortunately, the grille and twin-snorkel hood are still intact and in very restorable condition.

See all 21 photos 5 Though the 9 is not visible, the Mylar Federal VIN door sticker originally read "3-1970." The sticker also has the same VIN as found elsewhere on the car.

See all 21 photos 6 The dashboard VIN plate is easiest to read standing outside the car on the driver's side, looking down at the dashboard through the windshield. The entire VIN of this vehicle is properly attached.

See all 21 photos 7 The top of the cowl on the driver's side is stamped with a partial VIN.

See all 21 photos 8 The radiator support VIN stamping is a bit harder to locate than the ones in the previously mentioned locations. It is tucked behind the radiator, on the driver's side of the car.

See all 21 photos 10 Like the engine stamp, the top line on the transmission stamp reads "0B275558." In the second line, "PP8333083 202," the PP stands for the New Process Gear Division in Syracuse, New York. A PK would have indicated the Kokomo, Indiana, transmission plant. The 833 designates the four-speed transmission, and 3083 is the date code based on Chrysler's 10,000-day calendar. Finally, 202 is the sequential number for the transmission, meaning that this transmission was the 202nd transmission built that day.

See all 21 photos

See all 21 photos 11 The radiator is the original 26-inch unit with the number 2998 949, which is found on 318 and 340 cars.

See all 21 photos 12 Parts like the windshield-wiper motor are date stamped, verifying it to be original to the car.

See all 21 photos

See all 21 photos 14 The driver-side floor pan is rusted and needs repair. Stripping the car to bare metal will likely expose a few more areas in the floors that require attention.

See all 21 photos 15 Although a magnet sticks to the bottoms of both quarter-panels, there is no question that they have been blessed with some Band-Aid bodywork.

See all 21 photos 16 The bottoms of both quarters need metalwork. A decision as to whether the quarters should be repaired or replaced might be a tossup. However, with several companies offering outstanding quarter-panel reproductions for E-Bodies, the final decision should be determined after the car is stripped to bare metal.

See all 21 photos 17 The High Performance Axle Package features the 8 3/4 Sure-Grip rear equipped with the desirable 489 case and retains its original 3.91 ring-and-pinion gearset. All the fasteners and springs appear to be untouched and original, which is usually good news.

See all 21 photos 18 The underside of the hood retains the factory EF8 Ivy Green Metallic paint and the OE rubber seal, making the strong case that it is original to the car.

Fender Tag Decoding



A fender tag lists the options found on the car. Sometimes a second fender tag is necessary if the car is equipped with many options. The fender tag is read from bottom to top. As a sampling, and because I geek out over this stuff, let's decode this 'Cuda's fender tag.

Reading from left to right, from bottom to top, the bottom line starts with E55, which denotes the 340ci four-barrel 275hp V-8 engine, and D21 for the four-speed manual A833 transmission. The rest of the bottom line of the fender tag is the VIN.

The second line from the bottom begins with EF8, which is the paint code for the Ivy Green Metallic body. H indicates high trim grade; 6 is for bucket seats; F8 for the green interior color; 000 stands for full door panel; and 312 is the scheduled build date, which was the 12th day of March. Completing the second line from the bottom, 116196 is the vehicle order number.

The EF8 that starts the third line from the bottom is for the Ivy Green Metallic painted roof. Next (cash register cha-ching!) is A31, the code for the High Performance Axle Package with 3.91 gears and Sure-Grip in the 8 3/4 rearend, seven-blade torque-drive fan, 26-inch radiator with shroud, and Hemi suspension handling package. A62 is for the Rallye Instrument Cluster, which includes trip odometer, 150-mph speedometer, instrument panel woodgrain, heater control light, tachometer, clock, fuel gauge, oil gauge, temperature gauge, ammeter gauge, and three-speed variable wipers with electric washers. Finishing up the third line from the bottom, C55 denotes bucket seats; G36 is for painted racing mirrors; and J45 is for hood tiedown pins.

The fourth line from the bottom begins with J54 for the Sports hood, then continues with M21 for drip rail moldings, M25 for body sill moldings, M31 for body belt moldings, M88 for a tail light panel molding, and N41 for dual exhaust.

The fifth line from the bottom begins with 42, which is really N42 (the N is concealed under the fender tag screw) for chrome dual exhaust tips. N85 is for the tachometer; R11 for the AM radio; V6X indicates the car was finished with black longitudinal (hockey stick) sport stripes; and Y05 means a USA build.

The sixth line from the bottom, at the top of the fender tag, reads 26 for the 26-inch radiator; EN1 for production line number 1; and the lightly stamped 37, which is an inspection stamp.

There are a number of fender tag and VIN decoders online. We want to thank the folks behind the decoder at e-bodies.org for help with this story.