Here I was, sitting in the back of the plane, slowly becoming aware of the reality of my departure. When I took off from Charles de Gaulle airport, I glanced at the faces around me, hoping they could give me clues to what was awaiting me at our final destination – Iran.

Last year, I decided to spend a semester abroad in Iran. Studying and living in this region presented an amazing opportunity for my studies, but also the chance to visit a place that had been teasing my curiosity for years. The history of Iran, its cultural diversity and multi-faced identities, mixed with its vivid status within international relations, intrigued me. I felt the urge to see and experience it firsthand while I still had the opportunity to do so through the McGill Study Away Program. It gave me the chance to put down the books and go feel, see, eat, and meet what I have been studying at McGill for the past two years: history and political science, with a focus on the Middle East.

Why Iran?

I met two McGill students who shared their experiences abroad during a study away information session. The inspiring testimony from both students motivated everyone in the room to partake in their own immersive cultural experience. I was presented with a list of countries in the Middle East and the universities collaborating with McGill. For Iran, t here was a blank space. No one was interested―but I was. Choosing Iran was a personal choice, but also one that became more interesting as I researched the region. It is an important country in the context of the Middle East and international relations, but also a country that is attractive to geologists for its particular rocks and minerals and to engineers for its mining and oil reserves. It has also traditionally attracted anthropologists and historians from all over the world due to its history, culture, and traditions.

I am not known to be a worrier. Once I had committed to this adventure and thoughts of what awaited me were overwhelming, I would picture myself in Iran and make little scenarios in my head of typical things I would do and appreciate, such as taking creative photos (I love photography!), hiking in the mountains, having a good laugh, or discovering new food. It was difficult at times to imagine myself over there, as I was used to my life and experiences in Montreal and France (where I am from).

Discovering on your own

I arrived in Tehran on January 20, a cold winter night. Once the plane landed, the flight attendant announced that we had arrived in the Islamic Republic of Iran. Women without veils began wrapping their heads with scarves, which I immediately imitated. Once I retrieved my luggage, I got out of the airport and jumped into a taxi. Even though we had a very difficult time communicating, my driver was able to drive me to the residence hall where I would be staying. Once I arrived, my crazy adventure continued as the women

University of Tehran

responsible for the dorms told me this was not a hotel and that I must be lost. A student passing by helped me translate and explain that I was, in fact, a student! When I finally entered my temporary home, I was happy to have completed the first step: arriving safely. A group of young girls studying for their exams immediately welcomed me. They were so kind, offering me food and a warm welcome. I was relieved to have arrived at my destination without any problems, but not surprised, as I knew before leaving France about the wonderful Iranian hospitality that awaited me.

My floor was reserved for female foreigners, mainly coming from surrounding countries like Turkey, Iraq, Afghanistan, and China. Everyone knew I had just arrived and welcomed me or said hello in the hallways. Even though I knew no one, I felt so at ease. Exchanging with other foreign students was very interesting as we came from different cultures.

I quickly understood that my experience in Iran would be unique―I did not meet many young foreigners during my stay and my program had very few students. As the first McGill student to study abroad in Iran, the professors from the program were very happy to receive a student from Canada, and from a prestigious institution. Outside of the university grounds, people could tell I was a foreigner, but they never looked or treated me in a bothersome or rude way. The people I met understood that I was genuinely interested in Iran and they took the time to teach me about their culture.

Experiencing your studies

I followed a foreigner’s program called “Iranian studies” at the University of Tehran. It consisted of four classes in English about Iran: political geography, political economy, state and religion, and international politics. The second half of the week, I had three Farsi language courses (optional, but highly recommended), offered solely to foreign students. The classroom represented a place where we could all share our thoughts on Iranian culture and how we relate to it.

Beyond the classroom, my life and travels allowed me to understand my Iranian friends and their country much more than I could have ever expected. After a few months, I felt like I succeeded at passing a cultural barrier that was so hard to overcome at first, especially since there are few Westerners in Iran. I travelled by bus, car, t rain, and plane to many different parts of the country, travelling from 35 degrees in the south to 0 degrees in the North on the same day. I was wonderfully hosted in every place I ended up and ate so many amazing dishes that I had never tried before. Little by little, my classmates taught me the cultural customs women followed and showed me what the city I was studying in had to offer.

I initially focused on learning the language and discovering Tehran, but the urge to take a trip outside of the city kept growing inside me. In the meantime, I tried different coffee shops, continued to struggle with taxi drivers and Tehrani traffic and met some amazing people outside of the university. Of course, there were times I felt lonely, but that quickly changed when I would remind myself of the incredible adventure I was on and turned to my new friends for support.

It took me about a month, but I eventually established a routine; I would say hello to the fruit merchant across the street from my residence hall and buy fresh bread after class. I challenged myself to buy something new every day at the supermarket to practice my Farsi and immerse myself in the Iranian culture. This is how I discovered carrot jam, rose jam, walnut cream cheese and saffron yogurt, which left me with a large amount of food I could not finish on my own! I shared some of it with the other girls in my class who became some of my best friends towards the end of my time in Iran. This experiment showed me that simple initiatives and openness helps you flow into your experience. There are infinite ways to live an experience like this one, and I wanted my stay in Iran to be filled with travel, discovery, nature, laughs, and insight.

The opportunity of a lifetime

One thing I know for sure is there is not a single day where I regret my decision to live and study in Iran for a semester. A Persian expression says, “no matter when you catch the fish from the water, it will be fresh.” This saying inspired me, and I hope it will inspire others to take opportunities as they present themselves.

My final takeaway from this experience is how important it is to focus on a subject that really lights your soul on fire during your studies: choose an angle and study it, observe it, and feel it from as many aspects as you can. Delving into the details of a language, culture, theory, city, and tradition was one of the most satisfying and enriching experiences I have ever had. I had the chance to make new friends who introduced me to their family and culture with nothing but love. I laughed like I rarely did, and discovered the warmth and humour of Iran. I deeply believe that Iran is a country that deserves to be discovered by many. I cannot wait to go back.