The 68-seat space — boasting wood accents, red damask wallpaper, intimate booths and tin ceilings — is cozy, and chef Sean Sanders (formerly chef-owner of Browntrout) has created a pubby menu to match. With nods to the regions represented by the ciders, the menu is divided into shareable plates, larger entrees and two desserts. The wild Burgundy escargot ($14) is a bacon-driven affair with nuggets of snail swimming in ragu, accompanied by Swede struedel, an upright cylinder of crispy puff pastry stuffed with bright, herbaceous leeks. The doner kebab ($10), though considered an entree, could easily be on the small-plates menu. Order it spicy, which pairs well with the fruity and floral house cider. The melt ($13) — straddling a patty melt and a burger — comes on a pillowy potato bun with garlic aioli butterkase and deeply caramelized onions, with chips and curried ketchup on the side.