Traditionalists have been pitted against trendsetters in Melbourne this weekend as Victoria's best and tastiest salamis were put to the test.

More than 3,500 food-lovers attended this year's Salami Festa — a growing celebration of the much loved small-good.

"The perfect salami for me — first it's the aroma, then it's how it feels in your mouth when you eat it. So, the density and the flavour," one of the judges, Massimo Scalas, said.

A record 84 entries of home-made salamis were submitted — many featuring the traditional pork, but others using duck, venison, goat, even wallaby.

"The most important thing is the outside of the salami," Mr Scalas said.

"When I see a bit of mould, I think it's a great salami."

The judges took five hours to make their decision.

"It came down to about 11 that we had to retaste again. But it was exciting," Mr Scalas said.

Team Homegrown's salami featuring duck won the judges over.

Massimo Scalas and his fellow judges had to taste 84 samples of salami. ( ABC: Karen Percy )

"There was a lot of debate among the judges, but this one won because it was an unusual combination of duck and pork with a simple flavour that was perfectly cured and packed," Festa director Carlo Mazzarella said.

"It's adventurous, sometimes it works really well," Mr Scalas told the ABC of some of the more unusual ingredients.

"Go for it, be different — why not?" he advised would-be salami-makers.

The Palermo family's pork, fennel, pepper sauce and shiraz recipe managed a second place with the judges and in the People's Choice category.

"I learnt off my parents, and they've been doing it for 67 years, and before their parents were doing in the same. Keep it simple," Remo Palermo said.

Remo and Anna Palermo managed a second place with the judges and in the People's Choice category. ( ABC: Karen Percy )

Bernard Holbery was a surprise winner last year. A butcher by training, he has been making his own salami for 26 years, having learnt under an Italian butcher.

"I think it's got a lot to do with sourcing a good pig, using good fresh herbs and spices, curing time is very important, where you hang it," he said.

He lives in the inner city suburb of Carlton, but hangs and cures his salami elsewhere.

"I hang mine in an antique meat safe in Marysville, to get that cold Alpine air," he said.

His salami is mostly given to clients at his fly-fishing business and his buddies.

"It's a hobby. I do it out of passion and love," Mr Holbery said.

"The laws today for salami-making make it very difficult [to make a business of it]."