Although tourists will almost certainly choose the Lower Town in Zagreb as a base, it makes sense to explore first the oldest part of the city. It are the two small hills of Kaptol and Gradec. They are now known as the Zagreb Upper Town (Gornji grad).

Almost every inhabitant of Zagreb, when asked what is their favorite part of town, will say "The Upper Town". More specific, they will be thinking of Gradec. This area is more peaceful than Kaptol and because of the atmosphere coming from its intricate web of small streets.

A good place to start exploring of the Upper Town is the terrace below Lotrščak Tower. These are the only defenses which are still possible to visit and climb to enjoy its commanding position and splendid views of the plain stretching away to south and east.

A cannon tells the time

At noon each day a cannon fires from the first floor of the tower. This custom began in 1877 to make sure that all the clocks on church towers told the same time. It stopped in 1914 for because of the war. This was partly because it was an outmoded way of telling the time and partly to save gunpowder. The cannon and the custom were restored in 1927.

The tower is well worth a visit, both for the view and for the opportunity to see one of the real characters of Zagreb, Stjepan Mazar. He fired the cannon every day since 1937. The name of the tower derives from campana latrunculorum (thieves' bell). It rang each evening as the town gate beside the tower closed.

The terrace is a short cable-care ride up from Ilica. This is the main commercial street in the center of the city. The cable-car was installed in 1889 to obviate the otherwise step, short climb to the hill above.