By Miz Booshay.

What’s the secret to focus? I’ve been asked this question more than once. And I’ve been hesitant to answer because, well, I’ve never been sure of the answer. I’ve always just done what comes naturally! But I’ve been thinking and thinking about this, and have come up with a list. I hope it is helpful to you.

This is what I know, in my own experience, about achieving sharpness in photos:

1. Your camera must be still.

2. If your subject is not still, your shutter speed needs to be faster.

3. If it is dark, you will need a tripod.

4. It helps a lot to have a good lens. (Good glass, bay-bee!)

5. Prime lenses have a reputation of being sharper.

6. Lenses usually have a sweet spot.

7. Don’t hand hold a shot at a speed lower than your lens length.

8. Make sure you know where your camera is focusing.

9. Take a lot of pictures and shoot on continuous.

10. Poor focus could be your camera’s fault.

Here’s some further detail on each of my points:

#1 – Your camera must be still.

Be aware of it. Sometimes I learn against a wall or a tree to steady myself. And I hold my breath a lot. Isn’t that funny? I’ll bet no one has told you to hold your breath before. But I actually think it helps. Hold still and gently press the shutter release.

#2 – If your subject is not still, your shutter speed needs to be faster.

Wiggly children, blowing flowers, and speedy athletes all call for fast shutter speeds. I have noticed that larger numbered f/stops don’t need super fast shutter speeds. (Less blur due to smaller hole.) Chew on that one for a minute or two.

#3 – If it is dark, you need a tripod.

This is Scott Kelby’s #1 advice. Use a tripod for tack sharp photographs. But it just doesn’t suit my shooting style at all. Though there have been shots I’ve taken where I wish I’d had a tripod.

For those of you who ask how you can get a nice picture inside without the flash, ;ike at a concert or ballet recital or wedding, a tripod really is the best answer. A tripod is also essential for sharp night time shooting.

#4 – All lenses are not created equal.

Buy the best glass you can. Do you homework. Ask a lot of questions. Rent the lens first if you can.

#5 – Prime lenses have a reputation of being sharper.

A prime lens is a fixed lens. That means it is only one length. A lens that can go from 55-200 is not a fixed lens. It would be called a zoom lens. Now, I do have a 17-55 wide angle zoom lens. It is a good lens and I think it’s really sharp, especially at 4.0. But who am I to argue with the pros?

#6 – Lenses have a sweet spot. Find it.

Don’t you just want to know what your lens’s sweet spot is? I did. I found it on my wide angle lens. I was totally delighted to see

such sharp photos come from my zoom.

The 50mm 1.8 is a super sweet little lens and I happen to like it wide open.

Again, the pros would tell you not to shoot wide open as the shutter blades don’t function best wide open. But, um…I like to shoot at 1.8. Sometimes I close it down to 2.0 but only when I am being an obedient little photographer.

Knowing your lens’s sweet spot helps you make decisions about your set up.

It’s good to know.

#7 – Don’t take a handheld shot with your shutter speed lower than the number on your lens.

For instance, if I am shooting with my 50mm lens then I know I will get into trouble (blur) if my shutter speed goes below 1/50. This is a rule of thumb, but I think it’s pretty accurate.

#8 – Make sure you know where your camera is focusing.

When you look in your camera, do you see the focusing brackets? Are they smack dab in the middle? Well, sometimes, mine move. I think in my frantic attempt to adjust my settings quickly….I move it. Twice since I have had my camera the brackets have moved over to the left. Both times, I have had to pull out my manual to set those brackets back in the center where I like them. If I tried to focus using the center of the screen while the brackets were over to the right or the left, I would be taking out-of-focus pictures.

This off-set focus thing really set me into a tizzy! But I pulled out the manual and set to work correcting it. I found the settings in my manual under “Focus Area Selection.”

Has this ever happened to anyone else?

If you want your focus area to be in the center of your screen, make sure your focus brackets are right there where you want them.

#9 – By shooting lots and lots and lots of pictures consecutively, you are increasing your chances of getting a good shot.

Most camera have a continuous shot mode. Give this a try. With a moving subject this might just be the method that works really well for you.



#10 – If, no matter what you do, you still think your pictures are blurry, it could be your camera. This is not an uncommon problem.

I have a friend who just could not get crisp pictures with her new D300. She took it back to the store where she purchased it and they replaced it for her. (This service is exceptional. I did not have such willing vendors when I had a problem with my camera they told me to send it to Nikon.)

So, within the first year of owning my camera I sent it to Nikon for repairs. (It was under warranty.) They cleaned it up, fixed two hot pixels and I think they actually improved the focus in the process.

It is a pain in the neck to send your camera away but the manufacturers really have the best technicians to

evaluate your camera.

*If your camera is under warranty, take advantage of their free “check up”.

I hope these ideas are helpful!

If you have a tip or two, please feel free to share them in the comments.

Encourage one another,

Miz Booshay

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