State parks worth a detour: N.Y.’s historic Old Fort Niagara

Gary Garth | Special to USA TODAY

YOUNGSTOWN, N.Y. — In 1679, a century before Continental Army commander George Washington strategized with the American colonies’ new ally, France, on how best to expel the British from New York City, the French arrived at the mouth of the Niagara River where it enters Lake Ontario with military plans of their own.

Then as now, the Niagara River flowed northward linking lakes Erie and Ontario. The river plunges nearly 400 feet along its 36-mile race northward; the most precarious drop being the 167-foot, three-tier plunge over Niagara Falls.

Still, it was the water route to the North American interior. Strategically, it was prime real estate. The French were determined to gain access.

Despite ongoing conflicts and clashes with the powerful Five Nations of the Iroquois, a deal was struck and the French established a small outpost, Fort Conti, on the Niagara downstream from the falls. It lasted less than a year. A replacement outpost, Fort Denonville, was built near the mouth of the Niagara but it only survived a couple of years. Then in 1726, the French hammered out another deal with the natives and a more substantial outpost was established, this time anchored by a thick-walled, multi-story stone structure with the romantic name of “the French castle.”

It was hardly a castle. But the massive fortification, built on the point overlooking where the Niagara River enters Lake Ontario, proved impregnable to attack.

It was, however, susceptible to shifts in overall military and political power. Following the end of the French and Indian War in 1895 the British gained control over Fort Niagara and held the post until they handed it over to the newly minted United States in 1796. The Americans didn’t hold it for long. The fort was captured by the British during the War of 1812. The Brits handed it back to the Americans in 1815 via a peaceful transfer.

During the next century Fort Niagara served various purposes, including as a border post. But eventually the outpost fell into general disrepair. Restoration efforts began in 1926 and continued for eight years. It opened in 1934 as a historic site and museum.

Today the fort has been returned to its former glory. Fort grounds and buildings, including the original French Castle, can be seen and toured. The 22-acre Old Fort Niagara State Historic Site overlooks the no-longer-militarily-critical-but-still-stunningly-beautiful point where the Niagara River enters Lake Ontario.

There is more here than a 290-year-old original stone French fortress, of course, although it remains the centerpiece attraction. Period dressed reenactors regularly patrol the post. Special events are scheduled through the summer season, including the French and Indian War Encampment June 29-July 1, the War of 1812 Grand Encampment July 28-29 and Soldiers of the Revolution event Aug. 18-19.

Life on the military frontier was often tough; sometimes brutal. Take a walk through a slice of that history at the Fort Niagara State Historic Site. It’s worth a visit.

If you go

Old Fort Niagara State Historic Site is located near Youngstown, N.Y., and within Fort Niagara State Park. The old fort is open everyday except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s. Hours are 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. January through June and September through December. The fort is open until 7 p.m. daily in July and August. Ticket prices are $12 for adults and $8 for ages 6-12. Activities include interpretive programs and re-enactments. For more information contact the park office at 716-745-7611.

More: Dream fishing destinations: New York’s Niagara River

Gary Garth has fished, canoed, kayaked, hiked, camped, hunted and been lost in most states and several countries. He writes an outdoor and travel blog, and is on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram.