Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #2

29.10.2016 di di Planetmountain

Update about Adam Ondra and developments from the 'Dawn Wall', the big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA, freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2014/2015.

Adam Ondra continues his Yosemite first trip at a relentless pace. A few days ago the Czech climber attempted a one day free ascent of The Nose but after starting at first light, his onsight attempt ground to a halt by the technical climbing on the Great Roof pitch. After three foiled attempts Ondra decided to continue upwards and, falling only once more on the famous Changing Corner pitch, he topped out at midnight in the rain with his father.

The first ground-up ascent of this famous climb will have to wait another day therefore, and although Ondra failed to free climb the entire route, he explained the longest climbing day of his life as follows: “The Nose is one of the most famous climbs in the world and I am super glad to have climbed it with my dad, even though not free. A big day out."

Ondra has now returned to the Dawn Wall with his climbing partner Pavel Blažek. Commenting on Black Diamond’s Facebook page he stated the following "Another day in the office;-) We hauled up and set up the portaledge up on the Dawn Wall yesterday. I got to the top of pitch 16, and worked the moves of 14, 15 and 16 till late night. These are three of the hardest pitches on the whole climb, on every pitch I missed one little piece into the puzzle, but with better skin and colder conditions (which are on the way), I will hopefully have these pitches super wired soon.

Pitch 14 has this really mysterious last boulder problem, seemingly blank, but offering a a few razorblades that are just horrible to look. The previous boulder problems on this pitch felt very good. Pitch 15 has this really small razorblade that I did not want to pull in these warm conditions so I would cut my skin open. The rest of the pitch felt good. Pitch 16 has this crazy dyno that definitely felt hard. I did not do the single move, but there is always an option to make the loop variation. The rest of the pitch is tricky and insecure but I found my way. Next days I think I will work on these three pitches if the weather allows."



DAWN WALL

THE INDIVIDUAL PITCHS

P1: 5.12b, P2: 5.13a, P3: 5.13c, P4: 5.12b, P5: 5.12d, P6: 5.13c, P7: 5.14a, P8: 5.13d, P9: 5.13c, P10: 5.14a, P11: 5.13c, P12: 5.14b, P13: 5.13b, P14: 5.14d, P15: 5.14d, P16: Dyno Pitch 5.14d, Loop Pitch 5.14c, P17: 5.14a, P18: 5.13c, P19: 5.13c, P20: 5.13c, P21: 5.13c, P22: 5.12c, P23: 5.9, P24: 5.11, P25: 5.11, P26: 5.11d, P27: 5.11c, P28: 5.12c, P29: 5.12b, P30: 5.13a, P31: 5.12a, P32: 5.12b



BY DIFFICULTY

5.9 (5a): 1

5.11 (6b+): 4

5.12 (7a+): 8

5.13a (7c+): 2

5.13b (8a): 1

5.13c (8a+): 7

5.13d (8b): 2

5.14a (8b+): 4

5.14b (8c): 1

5.14d (9a): 2

Total: 32



RELATED NEWS

23/10/2016 - Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update # 1

19/10/2016 - Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite

15/01/2015 - Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan