A short drive from Sanmenxia, a charming city on the banks of the Hwang He, or Yellow River, lies Hangu Pass. By Himalayan standards, the altitude of the pass, in China’s Henan province, is not impressive. In fact, from Sanmenxia, the stream of tourist vehicles plying along a spanking new expressway does not encounter steep climbs, before the pass opens out, presenting a picturesque view. But the Hangu channel has played a significant part in shaping an ecosystem, which, arguably, defined China’s civilisational core, mainly along the Yellow River and its network of tributaries and canals. The Hangu Pass separates the Wei and the Yellow River valleys — the arteries that have nourished permanent settlements, farming, warring empires, and vigorous cross-border trade along the ancient Silk Road — from the fertile North China plain.

The headwaters of the Wei River, which eventually merges with the Hwang He, were central to the rise of the Northern Silk Road (NSR). The NSR connected Xian, the oldest of China’s four ancient capitals, with the forbidding Taklamakan desert, in Xinjiang. On the way, the NSR encountered Tianshui, the headwaters of the Wei, before heading towards Dunhuang and Kashgar. Gateway to Central Asia, Kashgar today is also the starting point of the controversial China-Pakistan-Economic Corridor.

But in its own way, Dunhuang was no less important than Kashgar. The oasis town was an important junction, from where the Silk Road forked towards the north and the south. The southern route, in turn, became a powerful channel, bringing about a sustained fusion of Chinese and Indian culture and commerce. Starting from Dunhuang, the southern route had for long permeated Buddhist influence into China from India. From Yarkand, a major artery threaded through the lofty Karakoram Pass, leading to the vibrant markets of Leh and Srinagar. The passage finally descended through the plains towards India’s western coast. While the mercantile class prospered, it was the monks, scholars and travellers frequenting the Silk Road, who brought the message of Buddha to China.

Strategic location

The Hangu Pass, owing to its strategic location, became a natural battleground for rival kingdoms vying for the control of the northern plain — the largest alluvial plain in China — well known as the country’s granary. Control over the pass was also essential for reaching out to Luoyang, one of the four great capitals of ancient China. But there is more to the Hangu Pass than military strategy. An imposing golden statue of Lao-Tzu, the famous Chinese philosopher and founder of Taoism, dominates a nearly 17 sq. km. tourist complex that includes the Hangu Pass. It was here at the famous Taichu palace that Lao-Tzu wrote Tao Te Ching, the masterpiece of Taoism.

Taoism, along with Buddhism and Confucianism, echoes powerfully in the “cradle of civilisation” zone, along the Yellow River. Dengfeng, a town southeast of Sanmenxia, is one of the major focal points. The town is home to at least three iconic structures, which have played a profound role in extending China’s soft power worldwide.

The Shaolin temple, the fount of Zen Buddhism and Kung Fu, stands proudly along a gentle slope on the edge of the town. Taoism, in turn, resonates strongly through the Zhongyue Temple — a vast complex of 400 buildings, occupying a large area of 1,10,000 square meters — in the town. A short distance away, the Songyang academy, another sprawling grid of five iconic areas, is a reminder of the profound role of Confucianism in shaping the collective psyche of China.

Atul Aneja writes for The Hindu and is based in Beijing.