TEHRAN — I had visited the sprawling mausoleum of the founder of the Islamic republic multiple times, trying to blend in with pilgrims.

I would sit on the thick red carpets with visitors from across Iran and beyond, talking with them about the war in Syria, the latest soap operas and coming elections.

Sometimes officials would ask me who I was, only to offer tea and let me be. Despite its reputation, Iran is much more open than many think, even for a foreign journalist.