SOUTHOLD, N.Y. — Southold Farm & Cellar produces some of the most interesting, creative and exciting wines on the North Fork of Long Island.

The proprietors, Regan and Carey Meador, live here in a trim clapboard house they renovated themselves. In the back is the vineyard, where they grow grapes that may seem surprising by North Fork standards: lagrein, teroldego, blaufränkisch, goldmuskateller and others. Yet their wines are pure and delicious, energetic and alive.

Theirs is the very model of a small, successful mom-and-pop farm, the new pastoral American Dream, and just the sort of new blood to inject vigor into an often staid North Fork wine culture.

A 2015 sparkling lagrein from the vineyard’s first vintage in production, which Mr. Meador labeled Chasing Moonlight, is one of the most unusual and delicious wines I’ve had from the North Fork: firm, spirited, not complex but meaty and vividly fruity.