The run-down neighbourhood of winding alleys and shabby apartment buildings with its several mosques stretches across a hillside near the Moroccan border, and is a far cry from the sophisticated Spanish lifestyle on display in Ceuta’s port area. Here, residents chatter in Arabic and stroll through the streets in djellabas as they prepare festivities to mark the end of Ramadan. But they too are appalled at the idea of one day being turned over to Morocco.