Ebike right and left view.

Donor bike: Diamondback Trace Dual Sport, Hybrid large 20", 68mm BB, 2013-2015. 700C wheels.

Name: 520 Bridge Tamer, Top speed: 38 MPH (Flat road, No wind, 125 RPM, 11T cog, 52 tooth chain ring, No accessories),

Range 56 Miles (Slightly conservative use of motor including hills of Seattle).

Weight: 60lb (with accessories). Accessories include all things that do not make it go forward: Back rack, panier(s), lights, voltage converters, water, fenders, steerstopper, man purse, and some tools.

Commute one way: 14 miles, 37 min @ 5:30 AM, 43 min after 6:30 AM, weekdays except when roads are frozen, Length: 74", Height: 47" Width: 18", Born: 1-1-2019, Maintenance log: 9710 miles on 8/28/2020.



Coronavirus sucks big time, practice social distancing, and wash your hands often.

Bafang BBSHD 1000W.

Custom PAS_24 Spacer, Custom PAS_24 Cover, Custom Chainring Hub Cap, Custom Chainring Spacer 0.07" (all FDM prints).







Chain Guide with Custom extension arm and spacer washer.



A stabilizer bar is recommended especially for use with BBSHD as it produces a tremendous amount of torque. Without a stabilizer bar the motor may twist on the supplied toothed mount of

the BBSHD lock ring system and chew on the frame. Using a stabilizer bar instead of the supplied mount and about 35 minutes modification / fitting time will aid in sleeping well. BSBF-1

Stabilizer Bar is made and sold by California Ebike and resold by Luna Cycles. The process will require several inserts and refittings of the motor to get it right. Assure the ends of the bottom

bracket are flat and clean of paint. A hand electric rotary tool and rasp bit will aid in grinding especially around the curved motor bolt boss area shown in red. A large vice will aid in forming

a sharper corner at 2 places marked in yellow. Use caution to not grind too much per refitting, as forming will change areas needing grinding. And the zone between motor and frame may get

too narrow. This particular stabilizer bar allows getting the motor closer to the down tube of the frame with the bend on the tongue of the stabilizer bar. California Ebike sells a different (not as

versatile) stabilizer bar also. Apply grease on the motor shaft housing and the inside of the bottom bracket. After inserting the motor into the bottom bracket check for fit of the motor shaft

housing and bottom bracket by holding firmly the JIS square drive left side (not chain ring side of the motor) and the bicycle frame near the bottom bracket and note any up down or side to

mside otion of the motor shaft housing. Most likely shims will be needed between the outside of motor shaft housing and inside of bottom bracket. Fabricate 3 - 5 shims of K&S Engineering

(available at a good hardware store, hobby shop, or online as a last resort) brass sheet 0.005" and 0.010" thick and 0.05" - 0.075" wide by about 1.5" long. Slide these shims between motor

shaft housing and inside of bottom bracket as far as possible in at least 3 places, leaving a short (~1/4" long) tail of shim hanging out of the bottom bracket. Use as many as needed to reduce

motor shaft housing motion. Fold the tails of shims over the bottom bracket. Apply grease to both sides of the stabilizer bar near the lagre hole. Assemble the stabilizer bar onto the motor

folded shim tails. Complete assembly of the two motor fasteners to the stabilizer bar and apply the two lock nuts. 1/4" zip ties can be used to hold stabilizer bar tongue to frame. This effort and

shaft housing resting against the attention to detail will help keep the motor stabilized and free from creaking noises that can sometimes be confused with crank arm creaking noise. Before

installing crank arms removing paint or varnish from the JIS square taper area of the motor shaft will aid in reducing crank arm creaking noise. Best practice is to address these noises before

they can start so that if noises should start to emit from the motor they can be better differentiated.



The Grin Technologies PAS_24 is a modified version of the King Meter Mini Sensor II for use with Grin Technologies Cycle Analyst V3. The PAS_24 will update the Cycle Analyst more often due to

24 pole quadrature output than a single magnet sensor for more accurate RPM display. The PAS_24 was designed to work with hub drive systems and interferes with the BBSHD motor, so it must

be heavily modified to integrate with the mid drive motors. The tongue must be cut off. The collar of the PAS_24 does not easily fit onto the JIS standard crank shaft. The funny shape of the collar

needs to be reworked. There is no good way to stabilize the funny collar under rework. The collar and associated magnet ring must be removed from the PAS_24 for the rework operation. This

will destroy a portion of the front side of the PAS_24. Attach the sensor portion of the PAS_24 in place with thin double sided tape. A special ring must be designed and fabricated (printed) to

space the collar and magnet ring from the BBSHD insert surface to get back in line with what is left of the PAS_24 quadrature sensor. Then a cover must be designed and fabricated (printed) to

protect the PAS_24 sensor and magnet ring from the harsh environment around the bottom bracket area. PAS_24 is inexpensive, buy two if you are concerned about messing the first one up.

Good luck and Godspeed.



Derailleur: Rear, 8 Speed, Shimano, Acera M360. Microshift has an 8 speed derailleur and bar end shifters compatibile with Shimano Road and MTB 8 speed system.

Cassette, 11-40, 8 speed: ZTTO 11, 13, 16, 20, 24, 28, 34, 40 or Sun Race 11, 13, 15, 18, 22, 28, 34, 40. Best to reuse steel cassette lock ring than to use ZTTO Aluminum cassette lock ring.

Pedals: Shimano PD-M785 SPD .

Custom Chainring Spacer 0.07" (FDM print).

Chain guide: Origin8, Torqlite UL or Problem Solvers, Chain Spy. Because of battery location a custom arm was added between seat tube adapter and guide. A 0.042" 1.08mm washer was placed

between the halves of the chain guide for correct 7 speed operation. No more chain drop, YEA!!



A 46T chain ring and an 11-32 cassette combination was tried initially. Early wear on 11T cog caused chain to skip over cog teeth and unnecessary chain wear. The BBSHD has enough torque to drive

a combination of 52T chain ring and 11 - 40 cassette with 11T locked out. 7 speed operation maintained high speed, is granular enough, and allowed more chain on cog next to 11T cog to help mitigate

early drive train failure. Information for Narrow Wide chain ring wear is almost non existant. Below pictures show a new chain ring and a chain ring after 6000 miles. Notice burr on back side of chain

ring that can be felt with finger nail. Outside of chain ring did not have a burr. Some reviews mention narrow Wide wear to resemble classic wear of regular chain ring. None mentioned burr. Unknown

why burr was on inside of chain ring only. Always shift to the lowest gear when approaching a stop when using a 52T chain ring.







Inside view of New Narrow Wide chain ring. Same view after 6000 miles.



Speeds above 21 MPH (on flat road) will shorten the life span of chain and cassette to ~ 800 - 1000 miles. Buy these parts in bulk, do not waste money on shiny parts for ebike. Several brands and

models of chain have been tested. KMC Z7 and KMC Z8 measured with Park Tool Chain Checker CC-2 reads ~25%, and requires no break in. KMC X8 (and many other brands / models) are tight

fitting on CC-2 gage. Do not force CC-2gage. These chains will require some break in. Best to remove factory lubricant and replace with machine oil. Before riding use Park Tool Chain Cleaner system,

dry chain with rag, use compressed air if available, then apply machine oil. Be nice to new chain on the first ride. KMC product numbering system changes frequently and documentation of definition

or description of the terminology is non existent. X = X bridge, Z = Z bridge. Bridge Tamer chain length is 62". This allows for derailleur arm to be slightly forward. Aids in less chain bounce

during high RPM.

Custom battery holder for EM3ev 52V triangle 14S6P with 2 DC DC Converters above (in Velcro bag from Vicmax light battery).

This battery came with a battery bag to velcro onto a frame. It places the battery with a much higher center of gravity, and a rider will rub against it enough to be anoying. Best to make a holder.

Battery pack holder cut out area allows clearance for pack removal. Holder materials: Hardware store T extrusion, Aluminum sheet, 6- 32 threaded rod, nuts.

This holder can be adapted to most bicycle frames. Bafang motor kits are usually purchased from the company selling or manufacturing the battery pack.



Battery pack manufacturing takes some fairly attainable knowledge, some semi expensive tools to do it right, and some very expensive tools if you are actually going to test them. Then there is obtaining

a relatively small quantity of the right chemistry of batteries cost effectively. Unless you are an avid experimenter best to buy a pack from known reputable manufacturers. When the packs are dead do not

try to fix it unless you are a true experimenter with experience in pack assembly. Best to dispose of the pack correctly, and get a replacement from the original battery seller. See this or this.

Variable DC Variable DC converters X2 set to +5V, +7.2V. Manufacturer: QSJK, Pn: QS-4805CBAN-90W. (Search eBay ~$13. There are several sellers).

The variable converters are well potted. The case bottom can be easily removed (small screws) for the converter to fit in the Velcro bag.

CAD models of BBSHD, battery, and chainring measured on granite table with precision measuring equipment.

If you need models of BBSHD, custom battery holder, or PAS_24 spacer and cover printed please use contact at bottom of page.



Fork, Head Set, and Stem Replacement: Surly Ogre, Axle to Crown Length: 447 mm, Brake Mount: Removable cantilever studs, 51mm IS Disc Brake mount, Front Axle: 9mm x 100mm, Material: Chromally Steel, Offset: 43 mm,

Steerer Type: Straight 1-1/8-inch, Wheel Size: 29-inch, 27.5+, Powder coat finish: Black.

FSA Orbit MX Head Set 36 Degree Cartridge

Redshift Shockstop Stem

STEERSTOPPER Steering locker

Top left view includes a Magura MT5E brake lever with internal motor cutoff switch, a throttle modified for bar end mounting, a turn signal (mostly to

indicate back signal is also on), a Redshift ShockStop Suspension Stem (with graduated durometer inserts of default orange 50 and blue 60 durometer),

and a Steerstopper (highly recommended for stabilizing bike durring times not on bike seat, loading, and maintenance) is near the frame.



Top center view shows the Bafang display C965 fastened to a Steer tube Mount via a small custom adapter plate, a custom adapter plate connected to

the Redshift ShockStop Suspension stem through 4 custom standoffs (flat plate above round stem),that secures T-Slotted Framing holding brackets for

Grin Technologies Cycle Analyst V3, a dedicated (Android, no SIM chip) cell phone with IPBike app, Vicmax 8 Cree element headlight 7.2VDC (a torch),

and wire harness strain relief. A linear resistive throttle is at right thumb in the horizontal position. An on off switch for Cycle Analyst V3 is located

above the linear throttle. BBSHD display inputs the 3 button control switch, displays PAS amount, and battery level. BBSHD display battery indicator does

not see upper charge of ebike battery well, however is accurate at low charge. BBSHD motor inputs brake, throttle, speed sensors, and interfaces with display.

Cycle Analyst V3 inputs PAS24 pedal RPM, speed, and brake sensors for indication only. Cycle Analyst V3 inputs throttle for cruise control / throttle output.

Cycle Analyst V3 displays voltage, watts, crank RPM, speed, brake and throttle indicators. Cycle Analyst V3 voltage indicator is accurate however the

battery level indicator cannot be adjusted for the specific chemistry of the ebike battery. See schematic below.



Top right view includes MT5E brake lever with internal motor cut off switch, a turn signal (mostly to indicate back signal is also on), and main motor cut off

rocker switch (motor cycle style) conveniently located inside center of drop handle bar. Motor cut off switches mounted at the end of the bar end shifter on

both sides were assesed to not work well due to the action of applying pressure to the switch and rotating the shift lever handle as the combination of forces

would not allow the indexed shifter to settle properly. These switches were moved to the left side of dropbar as discussed below.



Bottom right view shows the Hall twist throttle mounted in reverse to have throttle action closest to bar end, and the BBSHD control switch conveniently located

inside center of the dropbar. To change PAS level roll left hand forward from the drop position.



Bottom center and right views highlight motor cut off membrane switch placements.This switch (available from many sellers on

eBay) was tried and was found to be too small when wearing thick gloves for good tactile response. A custom switch was designed and fabricated. This switch

works well in all conditions, has good seal, and wires are easier to route with out constraint from original membrane switch flex circuit. When installing

wrap one layer of silicone repair tape over center of switch, then finish handle bar wrap overlaping the center tape a small amount so as to not have thick

tape over center of switch. Apply repair tape as needed to mitigate moisture egress, with connector accessable for connection. Switch is available from Protomatix.





The membrane switches or brake levers should always be used before shifting starts to avoid unhappy gear changes and a loud report. Hold on to switch for at least 2

pedal revolutions after shifting, and assure chain is engaged correctly before releasing motor cut off switches. Do not waste time with inline shift cable sensors. These

sensors are momentary and do not react in time for proper shifting and allows the motor to start before shifting is completed. Use the main motor toggle cut off switch

religiously, always before dismounting from seat, and other times. When multiple brake lever reed, membrane, and toggle switches are used include individual plug

connections for troubleshooting allowing isolation of stuck motor cut off signal in the rain or cold. All motor cut off switches are connected in parallel. Use

breadboard jumpers to connect to switch. Make connector of switch and dual board jumpers moisture resistant with heat shrink and hot glue back fill. Connect

switch to dual breadboard connector. Use electrical tape to cover heat shrink of both dual connector ends of all connections. Creative engineering will

be required.



Dropbars are wrapped with a combination 21 rolls or 1260" of Scotch or Gorilla 2lb. or 10lb. silicon based Clear Mounting Tape (double sided adhesive slightly thick,

rubbery), and 3 rolls or 360" of silicon Repair Tape (self-fusing). Tip: Do not wrap Clear Mounting Tape, lay it in line with handle bars in pieces. Do not cut release.

Measure diameter with thumb and first finger. Bias layers toward palm of hand. This will take a while. Labor of love. Finally wrap with Repair Tape. Cushy and bullet

proof at the same time. Lasts forever. Thin wires can be added later by scrubbing bottom of handle bars with soap and scotchbright, rinse, dry, tie wires flat to

bottom of handle bars temporarily, apply fresh Repair Tape inline over wires, hold tight to handle bars. May take a little practice. Fresh Repair Tape can sometimes

be pulled apart should it meet accidently.





Seatting:

Seat post: Cirrus cycles, Kinekt (Body Float). 1 each spring included kit Purple 100-150 lbs., Black 150-200 lbs. default, changed to Orange 200-250 lbs. Change bottom spring only. Some getting used to. Get it.

Seat: Sella Royal, Respiro Athletic Gel with seat cover.

Light Bracket: Rear, Custom (FDM print).

Light: Ampulla rear with direction indicators, ground laser pointers. Light did not allow running and charging at the same time. Work around: Remove internal battery, add small slide switch to battery

cover. Connect +5VDC to battery cover switch. Connect switch to LM317 (or equivalent) TO-220 package regulator circuit. Connect +3.7VDC output to where battery was. Short PCB light switch. Now light

does not turn off while riding.



Wheels:

Velocity rims and Hubs American made (YEA!!).

Rims: Cliffhanger 4000M-62236, Black, 700c, 36h, Machined Sidwalls.

Front Hub ATB Disc 36h Black, h06-36.

Rear Hub ATB 135mm h49-36.

Spokes: DT spoke length in millimeter, FL and RR 287, RL 288, FR 289





Brakes:

Magura MT5E "Closer" Normally Open Levers, Quad Piston Calipers Kit, QM-5 Front and QM-9 Rear IS caliper mounts, 90 Degree Tube Adapters, MDR-C 203 mm Rotor, Bleed Kit.

Brake Pads (set of 4 with 2 caliper pins) 8.S (Sport) or 8.P (performance), which ever floats your boat.

Drop Bar MT lever Adapters, SRAM Dropbar Lever Clamp Kit.

All MT levers have 7/8" diameter clamp for MT handle bars, while drop bars are 15/16" diameter. Most MT lever clamps have a single bolt with a hinged clamp which will not work on dropbars.

Magua designs there hydraulic brake levers with a two bolt mounting system which allows use of the lever mounting adapter for dropbar use. The adapters from Design Yourlife available

on Shapeways also make levers easy to remove with center bolt for bleeding the hydraulic brake system. The SRAM Dropbar Lever Clamps must be used as standard dropbar lever clamps

are too big to fit in the adapter area. Best to remove the complete hydraulic system of lever, hydraulic hose, and calipers with IS mounts attached from bike for bleeding systems free of air

bubbles. Removing calipers with mounts keeps caliper in adjustment for rotors. Use wooden clamp to hold levers during bleeding process. Magura suggests to remove pads from calipers

and replace with the wide part of the "Transport Device" (weird yellow thing included on calipers for shipping) to get proper pad width adjustment without accidental hydraulic fluid

("Royal blood") drip on pads. This may leave too much distance between the pads and rotor, causing lever to not actuate fully on dropbars especially with thick padding. Another way

that will allow pads to be closer to rotor is to use an inexpensive set of brake pads (keep only for bleeding and adjustment while off the bike) and a 0.070" spacer to replicate the 0.080"

thick rotor when bleeding a system. Builders must do some experimenting to find the proceedure that works best for them. Bleed vent screw is fragile. Do not over tighten. It is only a nylon

cap with threads and an o-ring. Tighten with T5 bit in hand only and do not over tightee. Replace the dual brake pads that arrives with the calipers with single pads to allow use of top

loading pads into caliper with out having to remove wheels. This will also allow for more even rotor and pad wear. Assure proper "bed in" of hydraulic brake systems before hard use.

Recommended system bed in proceedure includes accelerating to 20 MPH, bring bike to near stop, 30 - 50 times. Bedding in front and back brakes seperately will assure even bed in, as

doing both braked at the same time may cause insufficent bed in of rear brake due to weight shift to forward of moving bike. Brake pad particales are actually embedding on to the rotor.

Front and rear mechanical disk brakes were tried, including a disk plus rim braking system in front. Overall braking performance was not optimal for commuting especialy on wet days.

Also mechanical rim brake on front were hard on the rim of heavy ebike. The differances in lever feel are that mechanical brake calipers were adjusted to "bite " early in lever travel

with a slower complete stop, while hydraulic brake levers cause calipers to bite midway through travel, and also allows a faster complete stop. Hydraulic quad piston calipers bite fairly

hard and fast. Practicing braking with the new feel is important. The MT5E lever internal switch actuates early in the travel, and contact actuation can be lightly felt. Unknow if the

contacts are magnetically or mechanically actuated. Assure "closer" normally open model lever is used with BBSHD motor. As mentioned above the motor needs to get a brake signal to

avoid jamming gears and causing a loud report during shifting. As calipers bite mid travel of levers early brake signal works well. Also as mentioned above external motor brake signals from

momentary membrane switches work well for shifting and a toggle switch is recommended for good safety. Keep in mind motor does not do any actual braking, it simply turns off and coasts.

All two wheeled vehicles front brakes stop more load than back brakes. The increaded load wears on pads and rotors that release metal dust. Magura caliper has Magnets on pistons to

hold pads in place during installation. The metal dust collects on the pads that get magnetized. Squeeking can develop when metal dust collects. Pull pads and lightly sand with 240 grit

or above on flat surface. Clean rotor with alcohol. Wipe rotor dry with paper towel. Replace pads. Adjust caliper location by loosening bolts connecting caliper to adapter. hold brake lever

tight. Tighten caliper location bolts a little at a time to assure caliper does not walk during caliper adjustment. Blowing area with compressed air often may also keep squeek away.



Tires, Tubes:

Rear tire was Specialized Electra, 51mm, 2", is MAXXIS Grifter TB96802000, 63.5mm, 2.5".

Front tire 700C Schwalbe, Big Apple, 59.7mm 2.35".

Tube, Specialized, 29 X 1.75-2.4, 47-60 X 622, Full Metal Schrader Valve, D1 031E-1335.





Fenders:

Coroplast 0.157" thick X 46" X 98".

Mr. McGroovy's Box Rivets.

Fender P Clamps.







Carry:

Jandd Expedition 29er rack. Jandd hooks (far right, zoom in if needed).

Perko #1222DP0CHR marine handle mounted on top of rack for e-Bike maneuvering.

Sundog #222823-1 marine door latches (2/ package, 2 sets needed, latches in middle picture, cleats in far right).

Iris or Staples portable hanging folder file boxes Letter X 6" (far left).

Latches are adjustable up and down via latch bracket (middle picture). Adjust so that hooks are snug to rack. Adjust latch tension with latch

side adjustment set screws so that boxes do not unlatch easily.









RAD Bicycle Hoist:

A bit underrated for heavy ebike use. Not really intended for maintenance use, however it does work. The pinch latch is under heavy stress. The mounting structure (wood) is also under some

stress. Best practice is to use one hand to help lift and control the bike (to ease stress on the mounting structure and pulleys) while using the other hand to control the rope and pinch latch.

Controlling the rope involves pulling or letting out the rope through the pinch latch (depending on the direction of travel) and locking the rope with the pinch latch (slight pull outward). The

process takes some practice. Lower or raise the bike about 8" at a time for best control of the pinch latch. Hoist may pick up one end of the bike first depending on where hooks are placed.

Lower pulleys fall off of rope while hooking up some times (inconvenient, could have used a shrouded guide system). Rope stays on after tension is applied. Replace hook bolts with small

diameter rope for better hook versatility. System pulleys could use multiple wheel pulleys. Rope latch could be replaced with marine cleat using cleat hitch techniques.



Hoist mounting 2" X 4" structure on wire rack put away. Hoist mounting unlocked. Hoist mounting pulled out. Hoist mounting locked ready for use.





Bike on ground . Hoist hooks on rack. Hoist hooks on frame. Bike in air.







BBSHD setup:

Configuration utility (Windows) settings used for "Bridge Tamer". There is discussion of parameters meanings and settings on A Hackers Guide To Programming The BBS02 & BBSHD







The settings changed from the Read Flash of the BBSHD were:

Basic> Low Battery Protection and Current Limit (to accomodate the 52V battery),Wheel Diameter.

Pedal Assist> Start Degree, Stop Delay, Current Decay,and Stop Decay.

Throttle Handle> Start Voltage, End Voltage, Speed Limit, and Start Current.

To adjust settings consider making a Y connector cable with a switch to choose data sources, so as not to unplug and replug the Bafang display to main motor cable as many times as it will take to find

a good combination of settings. Change settings one at a time in smaller incruments. Ride the bike to get the new feel, Adjust again as anecessary.







Logic:

Build a bicycle that can fit on the bus bike racks in case of failure. Include suspension seat post and stem. Find out more tire suspension was needed for crossing SR520 bridge with 37 expansion joint

covers or EJC (1/2" X 4" plate, 6 wide ones, all with 45 degree edge chamfers). Find that 2.35" diameter tires barley squeeze into older bus racks and the battery must be removed to wrangle a heavy bike

on to the bus rack. Find out the bike is now a bit too tall for this rider. Find suspension fork moved maybe 1/4" on EJC. Try total fork lock out with hose clamps. Suspension works about the same. This

bike is used in the city only, no off road. Suspension fork eventually lost suspension with full ebike weight. May as well loose fork weight and change original equipment suspension fork to non-

compensated fixed fork. This dropped the ebike down to an acceptable level YEA!! Find out splash is serious at 18 - 36 MPH. Change fenders to the current revision (see first picture at top). Hook on bus

bicycle rack cannot work now, so bus is permanently out. Invest in AAA (they pick up bicycles and ebikes, actually used once so far, good service, get it). In hind sight maybe the bike could have been

built on a fatter tired bicycle frame, but not the fattest. Fat tires on fat tire bike frame actually take up most of the room where big fenders go. It actually rides fine with +2" tires, seat post and stem

suspension, and cushy handle bars and handles good considering how long it is. If you have bicycles toured you know your back biceps are going to get a workout. Handled wiring in consideration of a

custom frame (leave longer for rework). Now a frame change may not be necessary. And technology may change anyway. The plan was to use only Grin Technology Cycle Analyst V3 and remove Bafang

C965 display. External circuit work and parameter testing would be needed on CA. C965 PAS works fine for now, and walk mode is already working, and very useful for walking up stairs. Notice use of

Bafang control switch (see video) to activate walk mode. 520 Bridge Tamer is currently in a holding pattern.



Walk Up Stairs for Windows Media Player

Walk Up Stairs for Quick Time







Rant:

D.O.T. Please take your class legal speak and keep your laws off my bike. With a 60 lbs. bike, a 430' hill, 2 320' hills, some rolling hills, a windy 3 mile long Bridge with 37 EJC, lunch, some tools,

man purse, and a change of clothes a 1000 watt mid drive motor is just about right. Get over it. W.S.D.O.T Will the persons involved with the EJC decisions please get out of the gene pool. About time

most of those EJC got replaced. S.D.O.T. If the idea is to get more people on bikes quit painting the roads and actually fix them. Bicycle lane separators prevent street sweepers from doing the job in

stupid bike lanes on Eastlake Ave, 65 St, and Roosevelt Way. Have you noticed where the bike lanes are most painted is often where the road is the most chewed up. The separators often are placed right

where the road is in better condition. Those lanes are cute and dangerous at the same time, with plenty of trash. Watch out for those share bikes, you might get taken out by a stray. Same for ebikers

(new and old) who don't have a clue about trail courtesy or awareness (put that phone down and ride). Ebike manufacturers how about showing advertisements of real commuters on often rainy days. Big

fenders would become in vogue real fast. And what is up with people wearing street clothes, are they trying make a fashion statement or actually get some exercise? Is there anything wrong with clipless

pedals, drop bars, bicycle clothing and RPM on the display for better efficiency?







Rant on flats:

Flats are no fun. I have swept 7079' X ~7 = 49553 square feet worth of glass and trash on Seattle streets, bike lanes, and trails that are on either my commute or my evening water front and park ride.

It goes deeper. Read Bike in Seattle, Glass and Trash, Bike Lanes, Homelessness, City of Seattle.







Safety:







Always use eye protection when riding at any and especially high speeds day and night. A mirror on safety glasses will help keep you alive. You must know what is approching, always be aware.

Don't become a casuality. Inexpensive Cuda safety glasses (clear and tinted, available in bulk). Using the same shape glasses will make transfering mirror

between glasses easier to readjust. Protomatix sells mirrors shown, use contact below for information.











For added safety on fast ebike use bicycle turn signals rear and front with Bluetooth remote control where letting go of handlebars to make hand gestures is not an option.

Purchase $110 US delivery or $46 China post







Motor Rebuild:

A good reference for motor rebuild is on the Electric Bike Forum by Sebz.







At 7200 miles the BBSHD began to have a ticking sound every revolution. This sound could be confused with crank arm attachment to JIS square drive crank shaft ticking or

creaking. Do maintenance here first to eliminate this possibility.



The first maintenance cycle of this motor included a new pinion gear (sharp pinion gear teeth in the engagement area), pinion gear sealed bearing (minor stiction, common

PN 16003-2RS), secondary reduction steel gear (three partially missing teeth), and the three pinion gear cover plate fasteners (changed to internal hex counter sink fasteners

for easier disassembly next maintenance cycle). Three maintenance cycles per year will be added to maintenance schedule to re-grease secondary steel gear and pinion gear.

This would be an easier maintenance that can be done while motor is on bicycle, and may increase life expectancy and decrease need for full bench maintenance.



The sound and feel starts before total motor failure. Listen to your motor and know the feel of a properly operating motor. Wise to purchase a second motor and interface cable

(octopus) for backup before or when the warning signs start. Spare parts are not always readily available. A spare motor allows for proper bench maintenance, a dependable

commuting vehicle, and peace of mind. Many posts can be found about the primary nylon gear failure. The nylon gear had very minimal signs of wear for this maintenance cycle

and was reused.



The difficult part of rebuilding is removing the silicone RTV on three power wires of the motor at the motor core pocket and controller and RPM sensor connectors (chisel and

pick small pieces of silicone out cautiously, do not destroy connections), removing the three pinion gear cover plate fasteners (because of Loctite and Phillips head countersink

fasteners), pressing a new pinion gear bearing into the irregularly shaped motor core, and getting wires and connectors back into the motor core pocket.



The motor can be tested on a bench with a battery, an interface cable, a throttle, and a programming cable. The programming cable has P+ and PL signals connected to turn on

the controller without a display or a computer connected. A computer is not needed at this time unless changing motor parameters. Connecting the battery, the interface cable,

programming cable, and a throttle to the motor will allow the motor to run for a short time. Enough time to listen to the motor at the highest speed of the throttle. The motor will

run for a short time only because the speed sensor is not connected. To test the motor again disconnect the battery for ~5 seconds and reconnect the battery.



Was the motor worth rebuilding? Monetarily: Maybe a wash depending on how much your time is worth. Ecologically: Yes less landfill, This ebike generates a few pounds of

metal scrap per year counting ~8 Cassettes, chains, and brake pads sets. And there will be a battery to replace in the future also. Intangible value: Failure mode information

gained. This information may help increase the life expectancy of a motor with shorter maintenance cycles in relatively easy places to get to. At least Bafang makes a product

that has some chance of being rebuilt successfully. Human made items will always break in some way in some sort of time frame.





Credits:



Paul and the entire team from EM3ev Erick Hicks and company at Luna Cycles Doug Snyder and California Ebike All the crew at R+E cycles



Wayne and staff at Greeg's Greenlake Cycle Justin Lemire-Elmore with group at Grin Technology Endless Sphere Electric Vehicle Forum Bafang



Ifor Powell author of IPBike app Tom and Velocity USA Surly Bikes Sebz at Electric Bike Forum