74ullc

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I think the continuity I was seeing thru the points, even with the points open, is normal now that I understand I'm reading thru the coils primary windings.



I'm not sure how old the points/condensers on the bike are. Possibly original, bike shows 11,500 miles on speedo.



Points are pitted looking, so bet some arcing is going on during opening. If need be I'll get them back on with timing/gap set and see if its sparking while running.



Overall bike runs ok....I guess. Starts right up but does pop some at idle when its cold. Cruising at steady speeds around 50-60 its great. But hard acceleration is not so great. I have eliminated the carbs and valves as being the problem so I'm looking elsewhere. I know...you'll just have to trust me on the carbs thing.



To do the test you described....lets see if I got this.



Remove the spark plug caps from either 1,4 or 2,3. Key/kill switch must be on. Set meter to resistance, one probe on one of the spark plug wires, other probe on ground? I am going to test the wire whose points are closed to see if they are charging up? Do I turn the ignition switch off to see if it leaks down? Seems with ignition on it will just keep filling the condenser back up. Then I can roll the engine over to the other set of points close and test one of its plug wires.



Plus don't open the points with the ignition on and the meter hooked up! Or boom goes the meter.



If the points/condenser are bad I think it's probably just time to put a Dyna S on there and be done with it. A new points plate is $60, so that's already half way there towards the Dyna S. I didn't think loosing 4 volts at the coils was normal. This could still be dirty connectors causing this? But why do I get battery voltage there when coils are not hooked up and then loose 4 volts when they are? Unless the switches/connections are having trouble under load? Or more likely is bad condensers?I think the continuity I was seeing thru the points, even with the points open, is normal now that I understand I'm reading thru the coils primary windings.I'm not sure how old the points/condensers on the bike are. Possibly original, bike shows 11,500 miles on speedo.Points are pitted looking, so bet some arcing is going on during opening. If need be I'll get them back on with timing/gap set and see if its sparking while running.Overall bike runs ok....I guess. Starts right up but does pop some at idle when its cold. Cruising at steady speeds around 50-60 its great. But hard acceleration is not so great. I have eliminated the carbs and valves as being the problem so I'm looking elsewhere. I know...you'll just have to trust me on the carbs thing.To do the test you described....lets see if I got this.Remove the spark plug caps from either 1,4 or 2,3. Key/kill switch must be on. Set meter to resistance, one probe on one of the spark plug wires, other probe on ground? I am going to test the wire whose points are closed to see if they are charging up? Do I turn the ignition switch off to see if it leaks down? Seems with ignition on it will just keep filling the condenser back up. Then I can roll the engine over to the other set of points close and test one of its plug wires.Plus don't open the points with the ignition on and the meter hooked up! Or boom goes the meter.If the points/condenser are bad I think it's probably just time to put a Dyna S on there and be done with it. A new points plate is $60, so that's already half way there towards the Dyna S. Gulf Coast, Texas

1977 KZ1000LTD

1984 VF700F