The Beacons beckon: the Welsh mountain range is a playground for outdoorsy types It is as I’m striding up a drizzly hillside in Wales, a little black sheep trotting at my heel, that […]

It is as I’m striding up a drizzly hillside in Wales, a little black sheep trotting at my heel, that I realise what all walks thus far in my life have been missing: a farmyard companion.

I am at Aberhyddnant Organic Farm in the Brecon Beacons and Liquorice the Ouessant sheep, the smallest breed in the world, is the little ram at my side. We are getting on well, so far. He is bossy and food-motivated –both traits I can get on board with – and is determined to lead the pack. He’s so diddy – the size of a small dog – that I plot to squirrel him away in my rucksack as I offer him feed from my hand. I’m in love.

Sheep trekking is one of the more unusual pursuits in the Brecon Beacons. Farmers Paul and Liz Matthews and their daughter Nicola run the activity from their farm, taking guests on tours of their land. Each ram – and they are all rams – is fitted with a rope halter so visitors can guide them but, of course, they are flock animals so if one trots on the others tend to follow. They’re putting the ram into rambling.

The i newsletter latest news and analysis Email address is invalid Email address is invalid Thank you for subscribing! Sorry, there was a problem with your subscription.

A playground of outdoor activities

The Brecon Beacons, I soon learn, is a veritable playground of outdoor activities. My partner and I visit in mid-August and are pleasantly surprised to find that, despite recent reports that British tourist destinations are becoming overcrowded, the Beacons is still relatively quiet.

Camping is, of course, a great option for anyone chasing that extra little bit of the outdoors but we, instead, opted to stay in a self-catered cottage in the quaint village of Llangattock near Crickhowell.

Not that we spend much time in the cottage. First on our list of activities is geocaching in the nearby village of Talybont-on-Usk where we follow a mapped-out route in an attempt to ferret out “caches” or containers which are hidden at specific locations marked by coordinates.

I’m embarrassed to say we fail miserably in our hunt. A wrong turning leaves us standing in the middle of a sheep field, deep in mud and scratching our heads.

Canoeing is a rather more successful endeavour. The River Wye snakes silkily through the Brecon Beacons mountain range. The Wye Valley Canoe centre sits on the banks of the river and we – along with our baffled dog – are loaded into a large Canadian canoe and instructed, simply, to paddle downstream until we reach the bridge. (“You’ll know it when you see it,” is the only advice we get.)

Fortunately, unlike the geocaching, you can’t take too many wrong turnings when paddling along a stretch of river and we reach the bridge in record time – just under two hours.

Along the way, we encounter families playing on the bank, sunbathing paddle boarders, and other canoes. There are, at times, blissful moments of solitude, when the only sound is the gentle splash of our oars cutting through the glassy water.

Later, we head for dry land. Of all the ways to experience the beauty of the Beacons, through the pricked ears of a happy horse has to be one of the best. Cantref runs half day treks which cater for all abilities. Our group of seven is lead by two guides who offer advice and titbits of knowledge about the area as we trot on.

Mountains Pen y Fan and Sugar Loaf are pointed out to us in the distance as we are taken up through the verdant green hills.

There are opportunities for gallops, too. I hold tight as the greenery rushes past, the wind in my face, my horse powerful and fast beneath me. A sedate pace is definitely preferable for taking in the glorious views but a furious thunder up a slope certainly gets the adrenaline pumping.

Slowing down

Of course, not everything is as fast-paced. One of the most memorable parts of the trip is stargazing in the National Park with astronomer Martin Griffiths. The Brecon Beacons became an International Dark Sky Reserve in 2012, meaning it has an outstanding quality of night sky, with little light pollution.

Unfortunately, when we arrive at 9.30pm, it looks as though we have to contend with the Welsh weather. Clouds hang in the sky, shielding the universe from view.

But Martin has the patience of a saint and insists we wait it out until, finally, the clouds begin to disperse. He points out Jupiter, Saturn and Mars, inviting us to gaze up into the expanse through his telescope, which he has set up specially. I even manage to spot a meteor streaking through the infinite black. It’s a special moment.

There are other attractions, too. If walking is your bag, I recommend a hike up Pen y Fan, the highest peak in south Wales. Muddy Boots Hiking runs guided walks up the mountain, starting from the Storey Arms Centre. However, we opt to go it alone, starting from the car park in Cwm Gwdi. The walk isn’t as busy and the views over the Beacons are stunning.

It’s good, too, to have some rainy day activities up your sleeve – this is Wales, after all. We visit the Penderyn Whiskey Distillery for a whiskey tasting and tour. As well as learning all about how the whiskey is made we are also able to sample a few of the distillery’s own tipples. Just make sure you’re not the designated driver should you decide to visit.

Warm welcome

Special mention, as well, should go to the welcome we receive at every pub and restaurant we arrive at. Often, on a busy activities-based holiday, keeping yourself fed and watered is a merely a requisite. Here, though, the bartenders are cheerful, the pub dogs friendly, and the food delicious.

For a cosy, low-key meal the New Inn in Bwlch is a highlight. The landlord is as charming as his rescue pup, Rocky. For something a little fancier, the Felin Fach Griffin serves fine-dining cuisine in a rustic setting. The sort of place you can eat truffle risotto while wearing your walking boots.

As we drive away from the Beacons on our final day, the hills slowly melting into the distance, we resolve to return. There is more to do; more of the playground to explore. And next time, I am determined: I will be bringing Liquorice home in my rucksack.