To find out more, I went to a tasting with head sommelier Gabor Foth. The saké he recommended accentuated key flavours in the dishes. We ate crispy duck salad with pomelo, pinenut and shallot with a junmai ginjo from Dewazakura "Omachi"; and roasted silver cod with champagne and honey with a daiginjo from Hakuryu "Special White Label". Junmai is usually heavier and more full-bodied than other types of premium saké; daiginjo is lighter and more refined. “The umami level in sake is a big factor in its pairing ability," said Foth. "Umami flavours are strongly present in Asian cuisine and sake has the upper hand over wine." I later discovered the ultimate umami saké and food pairing at Yashin Ocean House: yellowtail sashimi with Parmesan and sun-dried tomato with a junmai from Kawatsuru Shuzo in Muroka. It cost £8.80 for a 125ml glass (£27.95 if you buy it by the 720ml bottle at japanfoodhall.com). “It’s an umami bomb,” grinned sommelier Oda.