Here's the cut plan for my shelves. Everything is in mm because building in feet and inches does my head in, but I will try to do the conversions. Note that the 3/4" pine panel is 19 mm thick.



The Ikea bookshelves I was trying to mimic have a few routed features: stopped chamfered edges on the front side trim, and a curvy front edge on the shelves. I added the latter before cutting the shelves to length, though I didn't have the right router bit and so improvised. The chamfer I added with a bevelling bit, stopped 50 mm (2") or so before the end of each piece of trim. These little features seem so subtle as to be almost pointless, but their very subtlety is why they work - they add to the appearance of quality with contributing any ostentation.



3/4" pine shelving

#1 and #2: rip one board 191 mm (7 1/2") wide out of each piece of shelving. Trim to 2120 mm (83 7/16") long. Cut a rabbet to accommodate the 1/4" plywood for the back (~6 mm, but measure it) - make it about 10 mm (3/8") wide so fixing it to the back is easy. Mark these two pieces "inside left" and "inside right".

Rip one board 185 mm (7 1/4") wide out of each left over piece. Trim to 2120 mm (83 7/16") long, and mark "outside right" and "outside left".



#3, 4 and 5: Rip all of these into boards 185 mm (7 1/4") wide. From these 6 long boards, cut 18 pieces 718 mm (28 1/4") long. 12 of these are adjustable shelves, and will probably need to be shortened slightly so that they fit easily (only by a mm or so). I also did some subtle decorative routing on the edges of these 12 boards, and it is easier to do that *before* you cut them to length.



#6: Rip a strip 200 mm (7 7/8") wide, and cut to 1511 mm (59 1/2") long. Mark "valance". Rip another strip 90 mm (3 9/16") wide, and cut to 1511 mm (59 1/2") long. Mark "valance back". Rip another strip 70 mm (2 3/4") wide, and cut to 1549 mm (61") long, and mark "valance front". From the 70 mm (2 3/4") offcuts, cut another two pieces 219 mm (8 5/8") long, and mark "valance left" and "valance right".



2 × 4 spruce construction lumber

I made the trim with ordinary 2×4's and a lot of ripping and some tidy-up with an electric hand planer. This part would have been easier with a jointer and a thickness planer, but it was no big deal. Here are the pieces you need:



Two 718 × 38 × 19 mm (28 1/4" × 1 1/2" × 3/4"). Mark one "right middle" and the other "left middle"

Four 718 × 60 × 19 mm (28 1/4" × 2 3/8" × 3/4"). Mark "top right" "top left" "bottom right" and "bottom left"

Two 2120 × 30 × 19 mm (83 7/16" × 1 3/16" × 3/4"). Mark "back left" and "back right"

One 2120 × 38 × 19 mm (83 7/16" × 2 3/8" × 3/4"). Mark "middle"

Four 150 × 60 × 19 mm (5 29/32" × 2 3/8" × 3/4"). Mark "top right side" "top left side" "bottom right side" and "bottom left side"

Two 2120 × 30 × 38 mm (83 7/16" × 1 3/16" × 1 1/2"). Cut a rabbet 11 × 19 mm (7/16 × 3/4") out such that the two arms of the leftover L shape are 19 mm (3/4") thick. Mark "front left" and "front right".



1/4" plywood

Cut two pieces 2120 × 746 mm (83 7/16" × 29 3/8"). A LOT of waste here, because you need an entire sheet for each shelf back. However, 1/4" ply is handy for a multitude of other projects, so just set it aside in your scrap wood pile and use it for something else.



Note that if you made the bookcase from plywood, you would need two sheets of 3/4" anyway, and this runs to about $100, compared to $130 for the laminated board + solid wood trim. I reckon the latter is a good deal, given that you don't have to do any edge-banding and that the bookcase looks appreciably more high-end while adding less than 10% to the overall price.