Sure, the kimono and dances are lovely to watch, but nothing beats the elaborate hairstyles that we only see once a year! However, very little information is available, and even then it can be hard to tell these styles apart! So, we’re going to take a detailed look into each style and what makes that style well, that style!





Osome (お染)

Image courtesy of Umeka and Fumiyuki.



The most basic and easiest style of them all to spot. It’s worn by maiko in their second or third year who are not yet seniors as maiko in their first year do not wear any styles (or, if they do, it is extremely rare and it’s always this one). Its structure is similar to Wareshinobu, with these main differences:



-The mage is split into three sections instead of two.

-Negi shiraga tonbo or regular shiraga tonbo are added to the top of the mage to make it shine.

-In lieu of a kanokodome, a hashi no ke (hair extension) is combed over the middle of the mage. A small flower or decoration is sometimes added, like the example above.

-Miokuri and additional optional hashi no ke are added to the bottom of the mage.





Yuiwata (結綿)

Image courtesy of Yoshifumi Okiya and Ochaya.



A popular style among senior maiko for its simplicity and elegance, it’s the base of many other Setsubun hairstyles. Characteristics of Yuiwata include:



-A crushed/flattened mage.

-A kanoko tied around and then above the flattened part like a pretzel.





Kikugasane (菊重ね)

Images courtesy of Yumiko Photography and Crazy Blue Panda.



An elegant style that’s meant to mimic the look of a large chrysanthemum with a multitude of petals, it’s related to Yuiwata, but with a twist. Distinguishing features of Kikugasane are:



-Crushed/flattened mage.

-Hair from the crushed part of the mage tied together with a kanoko into the pretzel knot shape of Yuiwata.





Oshidori - Mesu (おしどり雌)

Images courtesy of Haginon and Coto Cotton.



One of the more rare styles as it’s very plain and simple overall. It’s meant to mimic the look of a male mandarin duck. Characteristics of Oshidori - Mesu include:



-A flat, crushed mage.

-A hashi no ke that extends over the mage and is flattened down and stiffened with hair paste.

-Hane mottoi tying the mage and hashi no ke together and accented with a beaded pin kanzashi.

-The addition of a nemaki or sometimes a kanoko underneath the mage.





Oshidori - Hina (おしどり雛)

Image courtesy of Shigemori Okiya and Ochaya and Emi Blue who’s allowed me to use an exclusive image.



An extremely iconic style that’s worn by maiko who are about to become senior or have become senior within the past year. It’s very popular as it’s quite flashy and has become synonymous with Setsubun, but only the Hina variant, which is mean to look like a female mandarin duck. It is one of the styles that uses Yuiwata as a base. Distinguishing features of Oshidori - Hina are:



-A hashi no ke that rests on top of and over the mage and remains fluffy.

-A kanoko that’s tied around the base of the mage that makes it look like a pretzel.

-Negi shiraga tonbo or regular shiraga tonbo tied in with the kanoko to make it very shiny and grab the attention of onlookers.

-A small decoration near the end of the hashi no ke called an ichidome that’s pinned into the hair to keep it from flapping around.





Oshun (お俊)

Images courtesy of Taroeines and Toshiworth.



This style is nearly identical to Oshidori - Hina above and can be hard to differentiate if you don’t know what to look for. The main characteristics that make Oshun different from Oshidori - Hina are:



-The addition a kanoko tied through the upper mage section accented with negi shiraga tonbo.

-A small bar ichidome kanzashi that’s added sometimes in lieu of a pin style one.





Fukiwa (吹輪)

Image courtesy of Takutanimoto and Ayaberto.



Also known as the “Princess Style” as there are quite a few princess characters in kabuki whose hair is styled like this. It is very closely related to the Katsuyama style, but contains a few additions like:



-”Hime Locks,” hair extensions that are long and flow over the shoulder.

-Miokuri added into the back of the mage.





Fukura Suzume (ふくら雀)

Images courtesy of Lazy Dragon and Geishakai.



This is an extremely rare hairstyle that I’ve only seen worn a few times prior, but seems to be gaining in popularity over the past few years. Fukura Suzume is very closely related to Kikugasane, but differs with:



-The top part of the mage forming a small, triangular peak.

-The addition of a bekkō kogai kanzashi into the peak that stands vertically.

-A kanoko tied around the crushed part of the mage and over the high part of the mage.





Edo Sakko (江戸先笄)

Images courtesy of Dreamliner77 [1] [2].



To be honest, I thought that this was only worn by maiko in Pontocho before the switch to “proper” sakkō, but seeing it worn in 2019 is such a pleasant surprise for hair enthusiasts as even in Pontocho it is a rarity! Characteristics of the Edo Sakkō style include:



-A crushed mage like many other styles.

-Bekkō kogai bar kanzashi that is wrapped in a kanoko cloth, usually a bright and unusual color like green, that’s tied between the between the upper and lower mage sections.

-Small pieces of hair that are wrapped around the kanoko section.





Suisha (水車)

Images courtesy of Sakuchan and Kimono Enishi.



A unique style that takes parts of Edo Sakkō and Osafune to create an elegant look for senior maiko. The characteristics of Suisha are:



-A crushed, flat mage.

-Bekko kogai kanzashi inserted into the middle of a kanoko that’s tied between the upper and crushed part of the mage.

-A hashi no ke going over the kanoko and pinned at the end of the mage.

-Completed with a string of tama kanzashi underneath the mage.





Osafune (長舟)

Images courtesy of Crazy Blue Panda and Emi Blue as an exclusive again.

Easily the most elaborate style that’s worn only by the most senior maiko in each district, Osafune’s gravity defying shape is meant to mimic that of a boat with a prominent sail. The characteristics of Osafune are:



-An elongated, looped mage meant to look like a boat’s sail.

-A kanoko with a bekkō kogai kanzashi through the middle of it covering the inner mage.

-Hair extending over the kanoko to act as an “anchor”.

-Thin nemaki that are tied where the looped mage meets with the inner mage.