When I decided to join a Temperature Blanket KAL/CAL for 2016, the first thing I did was search for pretty patterns – duh! I came across this one, which basically has everything I want: sock yarn ( because I’m a masochist and ADORE the look and softness), interesting shapes and colors, and knitted, for a great drape.

Pattern here

(by the great Shelly Kang from The Heathen Housewife)

Only problem is: I’m a novice knitter, and when I did a test square I discovered it took me 4 hours just to knit one square. Even this masochistic crafter – always willing to suffer for beauty! – has her limits, so I came up with a crocheted alternative:).

Note before we start: PLEASE READ PATTERN NOTES CAREFULLY. I always like everyone to feel included, but this really is a bit of an advanced pattern. I tried several simplified versions, but none looked as good as the original. The pattern uses a few quirky/unusual techniques, so read thoroughly before diving in!

Knitted version on the left, crocheted on the right.

CROCHETED SOCK YARN SQUARE

NOTES

Size: the pattern as written here will give you a square of 14 cm (5.5 inches) corner to corner. Please check gauge if needed.

Hook: we’ll work the sock yarn with a relatively large 4mm (US G/6) hook. This will give us the same soft drape as the knitted version.

Front/back side: for this project, the second row you work (even rows) will be your front side.

Stitches: the square is worked in half double crochet (hdc).

Loops worked: on the uneven rows (back), we’ll go into the ‘regular’ loops of the hdc. On the even rows (front) we’ll go into the front loop (as seen from this side) of the ‘regular’ stitch, and the ‘extra’ loop of the hdc-s. If you don’t know about the extra loop on hdc-s, I encourage you to google that first:)

Confusing? Here are some visuals (click to embiggen) and a mnemonic device: on the uneven rows, the stitch your hook is under looks like a ‘v’ with the point facing left. On the even rows, the stitch your hook is under looks like a ‘v’ with the point facing right.



NOTES (CONTINUED)

Decreases:

Decrease 1 (front): over next 6 stitches, do the following:

Yo, go into st 1, pull up a loop. Go into st 2 without yo, pull up a loop. You have four loops on your hook. Yo, go into the front post of st 3, pull up loop. You have six loops on your hook. Yo, go through two. Yo, go through five.

Yo, go into the front post of st 4, pull up loop. Yo, pull through two. You have two loops on your hook. Yo, go into st 5, pull up loop. Go into st 6 without yo, pull up a loop. You have five loops on your hook. Yo, go through five. You have decreased from 6 to 2 stitches.

Decrease 2 (back): over next 4 stitches, do the following:

Yo, go into the back post(s) of st 4 and 5 from decrease 1 (now one decreased st). Be careful only to go around the post(s) of st 4/5, and leave the part where you just made a front post dc alone. Yo, go through two, yo, go through two. You have now made a back post dc. Skip the two decreased st from decrease 1. In the next ‘normal’ st (see chart), make a second back post dc. You have decreased from 4 to 2 stitches.

Decrease 3 (front): over next 4 stitches, do the following:

Yo, go into st 1, pull up loop. Yo, go into front post of st 2, pull up loop. You have five loops on your hook. Yo, go through two, yo, go through four.

Yo, go into front post of st 3, pull up loop. Yo, go through two. Yo, go into st 4, pull up loop. You have four loops on your hook. Yo, go through four, You have decreased from 4 to 2 st.

Note: watching these decreases in the chart will help you understand them in their context!

WRITTEN PATTERN AND CHART

Note: chart is just for teaching purposes; width and height of stitches is different in reality. Don’t make the decrease st too loose. Click on the chart for a full-size version!

Row 1: work 42 hdc foundation stitches. Ch 2, turn.

If you don’t know how to do foundation stitches, you can substitute 44 ch, crochet in 3rd ch from hook and all other ch. Ch 2, turn. These 2 rows will count as your row 1.

Row 2 (from now on, this is the front of your work. See note on which loops to work):

18 hdc | do decrease 1 | 18 hdc. Ch2, turn. (38 st)

Row 3 (from now on, this is the back of your work. See note on which loops to work):

17 hdc | do decrease 2 | 17 hdc. Ch 2, turn. (36 st)

Row 4: 15 hdc | do decrease 1 | 15 hdc. Ch2, turn. (32 st)

Row 5: 14 hdc | do decrease 2 | 14 hdc. Ch 2, turn. (30 st)

Row 6: 12 hdc | do decrease 1 | 12 hdc. Ch2, turn. (26 st)

Row 7: 11 hdc | do decrease 2 | 11 hdc. Ch 2, turn. (24 st)

Row 8: 10 hdc | do decrease 3 | 10 hdc. Ch2, turn. (22 st)

Row 9: 9 hdc | do decrease 2 | 9 hdc. Ch 2, turn. (20 st)

Row 10: 7 hdc | do decrease 1 | 7 hdc. Ch2, turn. (16 st)

Row 11: 6 hdc | do decrease 2 | 6 hdc. Ch 2, turn. (14 st)

Row 12: 5 hdc | do decrease 3 | 5 hdc. Ch2, turn. (12 st)

Row 13: 4 hdc | do decrease 2 | 4 hdc. Ch 2, turn. (10 st)

Row 14: 2 hdc | do decrease 1 | 2 hdc. Ch 2. turn. (6 st)

Row 15: 1 hdc | do decrease 2 | 1 hdc. Ch 1, turn. (4st)

Finish: No yo. Go into st 1, pull up loop. Go into fr post of st 2, pull up loop. Go into fr post of st 3, pull up loop. Go into st 4, pull up loop. Yo, go through all five loops on your hook. Yo and pull through to secure, cut yarn and work in end.

Here’s the complete chart! (click to embiggen)



TO ATTACH SQUARES FOR BLANKET:

Place two squares next to each other with the top points facing up. Attach new yarn in top stitch of right square, and sl st down the side to the left corner, picking up 21 st total (divide evenly). Now sl st up the right side of the left square to the top, picking up 21 st. Ch 2, turn, work 42 hdc. Ch 2, turn. You can now work your new square from row 2 as normal.

Have fun!!