Amidst talks of restoring Cuba-U.S. diplomacy, Havana is already changing. The beautiful architecture may still be in a state of sorry disrepair, but there is a sense of optimism among the 2.5 million residents of this unique city. American accents are heard everywhere. Fleets of modern taxis -- mainly Kia and some Geelys -- supplant the innumerable old private versions. Many family-owned local restaurants serving very good food have sprung up.

The time capsule aspects of the city will eventually disappear as the long process of modernizing Cuba accelerates, with the usual global brands, the large cruise ships and the influx of tourists who demand modern, familiar facilities. Air BnB has just announced a Cuban venture -- a sure sign of change.

For now, however, Havana remains a city with no recognizable global chains, virtually no neon or commercial advertising posters and no high rises. And the fleets of old cars are still there. On the backstreets of central Havana, it is possible to see the ingenious mechanics rebuilding 50- or 60-year-old Fords and GMs from the ground up. A ’46 Ford convertible on a Havana backstreet was stripped down. As usual, it will be rebuilt on-site.

More often than not, the original power plants have been jettisoned, the old V8s replaced by Lada mills -- and so most of the older American cars from the ’50s emit the distinctive buzz of a four-cylinder engine.

Oldsmobile on a truck chassis, lada engine. Ronan McGrath

Some of the most ingenious constructions made from multiple-donor vehicles survive as well. The most impressive I saw on this visit was an Oldsmobile dualie that appeared to have been made from a convertible, wagon and truck. Naturally, Lada power dragged this monster along.

There is an old-car movement in Havana, and owners of the more original car owners have meetings. There are serious restoration efforts, too. The youthful owner of a 1959 Mercedes 180D had done an excellent amateur restoration retaining the original engine. Given the lack of original parts, this was nothing short of miraculous.

Cars of Cuba Ronan McGrath

For what it’s worth, it is very unlikely that there are truly valuable barn finds still locked away on the island. In the ’80s, a legendary British car sleuth named Colin Crabbe managed to move the rarest cars out, including a Jaguar XKSS pair that had been stranded among other superb cars after the revolution. What remains is a great numbers of lesser cars, mainly from the U.S., but also from Europe.

Some classics have already been pressed into tourism-industry duty. There are many convertibles in Old Havana that are used to provide tours. This is an essential way to cruise around, typically quite slowly, in the sun and imagine the city as it was in the ’50s.

Change is certainly on the way, but if you want to see Cuba before the forces of commercial necessity change it beyond recognition, now is the time. Flights are jammed with foreign tourists eager to see it before full liberalization and full hotel rooms. The days of the Buena Vista Social Club atmosphere are already waning. My advice is to catch it while you can.

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