What was described as the most beautifully-striking unclimbed line in all Patagonia, according to Argentinian expert on this region, Rolando Garibotti, has recently fallen to a team of French and Spanish climbers.

The five-member team of Lise Billon, Francois Poncet, Jeremy Stagnetto, Jerome Sullivan (all French) and Spaniard Pedro Angel Galan Diaz made the first ascent of the 1,000m Southeast Pillar of Cerro Murallon (variously reported from 2,656m to 2,885m), a remote, isolated peak in the middle of the Southern Ice Cap approximately 60km south of Cerro Torre.

They fixed ropes in order to place a camp one-third of the way up the pillar, and from there used the same ropes to fix the middle third.

The last third they climbed "alpine-style" but had to do it twice. The first time they reached a point two pitches from the top but discovered they needed crampons (left behind) for the last two pitches. They returned with crampons to finish the job.

The ascent took a total of nine days using portaledge camps, and 15 bolts were placed on belays. The route was named Pilar del Sol Naciente and has reported grades of 7b A1 W6 M6.

The first to attempt this line, in 1974, were the Argentinians Jose Luis Fonrouge (first ascent of Fitz Roy's Supercanaleta, and Poincenot's south face) and Rafael Juarez (who disappeared the same year on the Adele Glacier, and after whom Aguja Rafael Juarez, a.k.a Aguja Innominata, is named).

In 2003 the line was also the goal of Garibotti and Slovenian Silvo Karo. However, from below the rock looked very compact, and they did not feel they were carrying the necessary equipment for such a climb.

Instead, they moved to the west and climbed up to the West Summit, then on over an intermediate top to the East or Main Summit. This was only the second ascent of the mountain.

In January 1961, during their crossing of the Hielo Patagonico Sur, Jack Ewer and Eric Shipton with two Chilean friends, Eduardo Garcia and Cedomir Marangunié, tried the peak from the northwest and were nearly successful.

They reached the West Summit and the subsequent long, flat, summit ridge, crowned by a line of snow and ice mushrooms. They were just looking around for the highest formation, when they were hit by a sudden storm, which forced retreat.

The first clear ascent was made in 1984. After previous attempts in 1979, 1980 and 1982, Casimiro Ferrari climbed the 1,300m Northeast Pillar with Carlo Aldè and Paolo Vitali (the latter two both 19 at the time).

The team fixed three ropes and on their final attempt climbed alpine-style for four days, with difficulties of 6b and A3.

Most of their two and a half months in the area were spent in a snow cave at the base of the route, where Ferrari, who the previous year had been diagnosed with stomach cancer and given between three and six months to live, sat continuously chain smoking.

In 1999 French climbers Laurence Monneyeur and Bruno Sourzac attempted the East Face, getting to within 350m from the top of the wall and overcoming difficulties of A2, M5 and 90°, before violent winds drove them down.

Klaus Fengler, Stefan Glowacz and Robert Jasper climbed two routes on Murallon, though on neither occasion did they reach the Main Summit.

In 2003 they climbed the Northwest Pillar to the West summit (around 60m lower and one kilometre distant from the Main) at 6b+ and M8: Lost World, ca 1,100m.

However, their real goal had been the North Pillar and after an attempt in 2004 they returned to climb it in 2005 via the line of Gone with the Wind (1,200m, 26 pitches, 7c+ A2 M4).

.They stopped on the summit plateau after completing one of the hardest technical rock climbs in Patagonia outside the Fitz Roy and Torres del Paine groups. The French-Spanish team also stopped at the top of the southeast pillar, leaving the mountain with only two confirmed ascents.

Thanks to Rolando Garibotti, pataclimb.com, for help with this report

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