A spring morning in the town of Kells, deep in the countryside north-west of Dublin. The grass in St Columba’s churchyard is long and green – and a little wet too. Not that we are wasting time grumbling about damp shoes, for this atmospheric site is keeping us fully occupied.

There is the handsome 18th-century church to admire, and the ancient stone oratory ascribed to Columba himself. The medieval bell tower and the striking monastic round tower rise up nearby. And then there are the remarkable Irish high crosses – three of them, dating from the ninth century, mute testament in carved stone to an ancient past. A fourth cross stands outside the town’s heritage centre a few minutes’ walk away.

This casual abundance of historical artefacts speaks volumes about this small market town. Kells or Ceanannas Mór – “Great Fort” in Gaelic – was for centuries a place of wealth and substance: first, a hill-top stronghold for local pagan kings keen to assert their control over this wealthy corner of Ireland; and then, in a newly Christian Ireland, an important religious centre.

St Columba’s itself stands on the remains of the medieval Kells Abbey, and surviving stretches of the old town walls hint at yet further phases of history as a citadel beyond the Pale – the name given to the area of English control immediately surrounding Dublin.

For many years, however, Kells nursed something of a gripe. The town is, of course, synonymous with the Book of Kells, that famous illuminated manuscript which is emblematic of the glory of early Irish art. The Book was in fact most likely created on the Scottish island of Iona, before Viking raids led to its removal for safekeeping to Kells Abbey, where it spent most of the medieval period.

An enviable civic association, then – but frustrating too, given that since 1661 the volume in question has been held not in Kells itself but by the Old Library of Trinity College Dublin, which shows no sign of wanting to give it back.

The Book of Kells, then, has moved on – and all credit to the people of Kells for taking its removal on the chin. Rather than focus on a single work of art, the town has hatched a plan to widen the scope of its ambitions. Kells has quietly amassed a collection of some 50,000 second-hand books, and recently the (inevitably named) Books of Kells on Market Street was born as the town’s pioneering bookshop.

Cosy, well-stocked and busy on the morning we visit, it will be the first of many such businesses, if the town has any say in the matter – for the ambition of Kells is to be to Ireland what Hay-on-Wye is to Britain, a veritable treasure-house of books.

And with this in mind, the Hay Festival is coming to Ireland for the first time this summer, featuring a programme that looks set to take over the entire district in the last weekend in June.

Trinity College Dublin

The event is headlined by the Booker winners John Banville (The Sea) and DBC Pierre (Vernon God Little), and also features such influential names as Jeanette Winterson (Oranges Are Not the Only Fruit), the Irish dramatist Frank McGuinness (Carthaginians) and children’s writers John Boyne (The Boy in the Striped Pyjamas) and – in a nod to the Festival’s origins – the former Welsh children’s laureate Eurig Salisbury. There will also be specific strands dedicated to food writing, drama and literature in the Irish language.

Kells’s vision is impressive, possessing the energy and widespread goodwill that all such visions need to thrive. The town’s abundant history is ready to be pressed into service by the Hay Festival, as the organiser Geraldine Gaughran remarks in the pretty bookshop.

“Kells has any number of marvellous venues: St Columba’s, the beautiful stately homes at Headfort House and Rockfield, the town theatre, this bookshop, the courthouse – all acting as wonderful backdrops to Festival events.”

Later, we visit some of these landmarks – beginning with Headfort, now an expensive preparatory school, but originally built in limestone in the 1770s as the seat of the Earl of Bective. The grounds – all manicured topiary, fine woodland and a Victorian family mausoleum – are impressive enough; while the house itself boasts fine stucco ceilings and a vaulted central staircase.



Eighth century Virgin and Child, from Book of Kells

A few miles away across the fields stands one of Kells’s more unusual landmarks: the Spire of Lloyd, an 18th-century stone lighthouse that surveys – no, not the Irish Sea 30 miles away, but the surrounding fields of County Meath. Nobody seems to know quite why this remarkable folly was built at vast expense by the local gentry – to view the hunt, some suggest; to provide work during a period of famine, say others – but the views from the top of its 164-step spiral staircase are commanding.

Afterwards, we repair to nearby Sheridan’s Cheesemongers, a legend among artisan producers in Ireland and the venue of a popular Saturday market. Over bacon rolls and coffee (with a smooth vanilla cheesecake to follow) we reflect on our morning: books and views, deep history and a gourmet cheesemongers – who could ask for anything more? Kells – and Hay – really may be on to something.

The Hay Festival takes place in Kells from June 28 to 30. For details see hayfestival.com/kells and telegraph.co.uk/culture/hay-festival.

Neil Hegarty is the author of The Story of Ireland (BBC Books).

Essentials

GETTING THERE

BA, Aer Lingus, FlyBe and Ryanair fly to Dublin from a range of British airports: go to Daily Telegraph Destinations (telegraph.co.uk/travel/destination/) for a full list of connections.

Kells is about 45 miles north-west of Dublin on the M3 (toll). Car hire: Herz (herz.ie) and Europcar (europcar.ie) have desks at the arrivals halls at Dublin Airport; and Bus Eireann (buseireann.ie) offers coach connections from the airport and from central Dublin.

Kells is within striking distance of two busy ferry ports: worth considering if you have time at your disposal and would like to explore the Meath countryside. Irish Ferries (irishferries.com) and Stena Line (stenaline.ie) sail from Holyhead to Dublin Port; Stena Line also sails from Holyhead to Dun Laoghaire, just south of Dublin: check the websites for up-to-date timetables.

Note: there is no railway connection to Kells.

WHERE TO STAY

The Headfort Arms Hotel (00 353 46 924 0063; headfortarms.ie) is a Kells institution: family-run and centrally located, it offers comfortable rooms and a range of eating and drinking possibilities. From €79 (£67) per person a night.

Teltown House (00 353 46 902 3239; www.teltownhouse.net) for excellent farmhouse bed and breakfast in the heart of the countryside south of Kells. Double rooms with breakfast from €90 (£76) a night.

The Park Hotel (00 353 49 854 6100; parkhotelvirginia.com) offers a lakeside setting, acres of gardens and excellent facilities in the pretty town of Virginia, some 12 miles from Kells. From €89 (£75) a night for a double room and breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT

The Bective (thebective.ie) is a popular choice right in the heart of Kells: good lunch and early-bird offerings.

Café Therese (headfortarms.ie) at the Headfort Arms is open from early in the morning until late in the evening, serving meals and light snacks in the centre of town.

The Forge Restaurant (theforgerestaurant.ie) offers a modern menu, with an emphasis on local produce. Take the opportunity to visit the neighbours at Sheridan's (sheridanscheesemongers.com), with its fabulous range of Irish artisan cheeses.

For other hotel and restaurant suggestions see visitingkells.ie