Virginia’s early winemaking endeavors ended largely in failure, including the grape-growing efforts of Thomas Jefferson. After the passage of the Virginia Farm Winery Act in 1980, the industry started to gain traction and is now one of the fastest-growing segments of agriculture. It has helped reshape the agriculture business in a state dominated by livestock and field crops.

One of the oldest wineries, Barboursville Vineyards, was founded by the Zonin family, which now owns one of the largest private winemaking companies in Italy. Under the watch of its winemaker, Luca Paschina, Barboursville sells more than 38,000 cases a year; its Octagon 2008 retails for nearly $50.