It seems of late that there are endless articles reporting on yet another study that proves that expensive wines are a rip off and an affectation. I would suggest that these articles are in many ways missing the point, while also being exactly right on. For many people who enjoy wine, the wine they enjoy is more likely to be simple, fruity, and well priced.

Another much ballyhooed study has been that from Constellation Brands. In their survey, which has been repeated over the years, they have consistently shown two dichotomies, those who consider themselves wine enthusiasts, and those on the other end of the scale who while they appreciate wine, often find it confusing and perhaps just a bit scary. The number of consumers that find wine trepidatious outnumber those that revel in every aspect of it, two to one.

Consumers guessed the price of the most expensive wine as being much lower

For someone who is uncomfortable delving deeper into the mysteries of wine, but still enjoy a glass or two on ocassion, it stands to reason that their wine of choice would be well priced. What may be less easy for many to fathom is that the wine should also be relatively simple and fruity. An appellation that many wine lovers discount to the point of ridicule.

In the many blind tastings I have done with consumers, I don't think my favorite has ever scored at the top. Usually the winner is a wine I can appreciate, but found to be less to my taste than the wine I most enjoyed. A recent commenter to one of my posts relates a similar experience. In his blind tasting the consumers guessed the price of the most expensive wine as being much lower, and lowest price wine of being much higher.

These higher priced wines that are dismissed, either in consumer blind tastings, or in the oft cited studies, all have one thing in common: Complexity. They are wines that are skillfully produced, often at great expense, to showcase a great ranger of flavors and or structure. In the case of structure, the wines tend to have been created to reward aging, where the structure will give way, once again, to a complexity of flavors.

How could anyone not want more of what I can never get enough of?

Appreciation of complexity is a learned trait, at least for most. Starting from the simple and then, through exploration and acceptance, embracing the more nuanced is an evolution that is found in most pursuits. As we find that we enjoy, we yearn to discover more, and in doing so find that the more subtle details are open to us. This seems to apply from disciplines as disparate as enjoying sports or automobiles, to fine art and literature.

There are those who enjoy, without yearning. They happily accept their level of interest without evoking fanaticism. They may watch no more than the occasional sporting event. Appreciate the lines of a fine automobile without covetous desire. Glance approvingly, but not studiously at a work of art. They may read ravenously, but not widely, and they may enjoy their wines to be simple and fruity.

Their seeming contentment may flow across many lines, or they may be huge fans of one or many things, but for wine, they are satisfied with where they are at. Their seeming indifference to our passion, their inability to see see what we see in wine can be flummoxing for some. We say to ourselves "how could anyone not want more of what I can never get enough of?" Our gentle prodding, may, as I have pointed out before, may do more harm than good when it comes to their embracing all things vinous. Yet, we often persist, with earnest intention and heartfelt protestation, that if only they try this wine or that, they would finally "get it."

We all share the same desires, even if turns out that we may not all share the same degree of desire

It is human nature to want to share that which we find appealing. Just as it is our nature to fail to understand those who do not embrace our points of view. It requires no more than a glance at the state of politics around the world to find examples of divisiveness. It is arguably the trait that leads to wars and unrest if not all that we label evil in the world. It seems a giant leap from the world of wine to all that ails mankind, but in making such a leap we can more easily understand not only the need for tolerance in wine, but in our lives.

We all want the same things. Peace, harmony, understanding, and a bottle of wine that brings tears to our eyes without emptying our pocketbooks. We want these things for ourselves, the ones we love, and on our better days, for everyone else as well. Just as each of our pocket books are of different depths, our tastes and expectations in wine vary. I like my wines complex, especially when I can afford them to be. Economics being what they are, simple and fruity is not that rare a choice.

What I like in wine, and what I want for all of humanity, are wines that are well made, without objectionable faults, and to each of our personal tastes. The good news is that this is exactly what is available. There is a wine out there for everyone. We may not all share the same tastes, but we all share the same desires, even if turns out that we may not all share the same degree of desire. In the past I have extolled the virtue of drinking wine without over complicating it. In this missive I would amend that to say we should all go forth and enjoy wine exactly how we best enjoy it. Simple or complicated. With little thought or great devotion. With gusto or on the rocks. Just so that there is a little more joy in each of our lives.