The owner of perennial San Francisco Thai food favorite Lers Ros has been dreaming of a restaurant devoted to the cuisine of Northeastern Thailand, or Isan/Esan, since a trip in 2015. After a long waiting period — in hindsight, an original December 2015 opening target proved overly optimistic — Esan Classic opens on Saturday. The restaurant will serve lunch, dinner, and whatever meal it is when it’s 1 a.m., as the kitchen stays open until 2.

Esan Classic is the fourth restaurant from Tom Silargorn, whose Lers Ros mini-chain now boasts three locations: The original in the Tenderloin, a second in Hayes Valley, and a third in the Mission. Located in the former Olive space at 739 -743 Larkin Street, Esan Classic is almost directly across the street from the original Lers Ros.

The chef this time is Chanon Hutasingh, a family member of Silargorn. His extensive menu of Esan dishes, many influenced by nearby Cambodia and Laos, are below. Esan Classic will be open Sunday to Thursday from 11 a.m. to midnight and Friday and Saturday until 2 a.m.