At the Critics’ Table

Week after week, the restaurant critics for The New York Times have written on food, service and the dining scene. But what is it like to do the job? Rick Berke, a senior editor at The Times, spoke with five critics, past and present — Ruth Reichl, William Grimes, Frank Bruni, Sam Sifton and Pete Wells — to discuss the food, the star-rating system and the tricks to eating anonymously.