Having led a company that for the past 20 years has been an ardent advocate for higher standards of conduct, I am convinced that the only way forward for the jewelry business in particular, and for extractive industries in general, is through third-party certification mechanisms that establish rigorous standards for the mining of precious metals and gemstones.

This needs to be a system that involves all stakeholders, including community organizations, and not just industry representatives in its conception and governance. It must set standards that go far beyond today’s lowest-common-denominator regulations. Good intentions are not enough; these standards must be transparent, auditable and mine-specific, with on-the-ground performance metrics.

The certification system of the Forest Stewardship Council, which counts hundreds of environmental groups, industry representatives and labor organizations among its members and has promotedsustainable forestry management for more than 20 years, offers a credible model. The standards must enforce respect for human rights and require the informed consent of host communities before mine development. They should also prevent the location of mines in protected areas, or areas of ecological or cultural value.

These standards would prohibit the pollution of land, water or air and the release of toxic materials — specifically, the dumping of mine tailings in rivers, lakes or oceans. And they would require, in advance, full financial provision to cover the costs of mine closure and reclamation.

Jewelry and watch retailers, as well as brand owners, must cooperate to make the mining sector that supplies the materials on which they depend more transparent and responsible. Consumer sentiment is changing on these issues, and the point of sale is where our industry feels most sharply the new public awareness. For their own self-interest and for their customers, retailers and brand owners must insist that the entire supply chain of mining companies, manufacturers and traders recognize the market demand for a more sustainable, responsible industry.

Since my retirement as chief executive, I have been back to Bristol Bay to fish in its waters, observe its magnificent wildlife and marvel at its grandeur. But the scale and majesty of the Alaskan wilderness also remind me that few industries in the world have a larger environmental and social footprint than mining.

We’ve heard the message from customers. Now brand owners and jewelry retailers must come together to establish a certification system that will assure responsible behavior.