Review: Wolverine 1000 Mile 744 LTD Shell Cordovan Boots |

In October 2010, Wolverine released the 721 LTD, a wingtip boot made from Color 8 Horween shell cordovan, limited to 1000 individually numbered pairs. Two years later, they released another limited edition model, this time made in a captoe pattern from brown “No. 449” shell, calling it the 744 LTD.

I’ve wanted a pair of shoes in brown shell cordovan for a very long time but with Horween’s shortage of horse hides and the prices on the secondary market, it seemed unlikely to happen anytime soon. Thankfully, last December I was in the right place when someone posted a deal from Amazon’s MyHabit on reddit’s r/frugalmalefashion. The boots were available in a handful of sizes marked down to $380 USD from their original price of $760, plus another 20% off code that I had to call in to apply. Have you ever had your heart beat so fast that you have trouble typing in your credit card number?

Possibly the sturdiest shoebox I’ve handled, I’m not sure if the original 1000 Miles come in the same packaging

They arrived a week later and I opened the box to find the boots came with a certificate of authenticity, shoe bags, and branded basswood shoe trees.

There are many ways in which the 744’s differ from the regular 1000 Mile boots. Whereas the original line is manufactured at Wolverine’s factory in Michigan with a 270 degree goodyear welt, the 721, 744, and Krause models are all 360 degree goodyear welted and manufactured by Allen Edmonds in Wisconsin on an exclusive last. I’ve always found the original 1000 mile to look better in pictures than in-person. Overall, I find this last to be more balanced with a slightly lower and less stubby toebox. The welt all the way around the heel helps give the boot a sturdier stance as well. Although, truth be told, I prefer Dayton’s 11377 (Service Boot) and Viberg’s 2030 lasts over this one. Here is a comparison of the 744 versus various Alden and Viberg models from /u/les_diabolique.

I’ve seen shell boots with mismatched shades of colour between panels when one shell isn’t enough to make both boots. I’m glad that my pair does not exhibit this, save for the heel counters that seem to be a touch lighter under bright conditions.



As the Allen Edmonds name is not printed on the boot these are not eligible for their recrafting service. I’ll have to send them off to B. Nelson in NYC for a Dainite resole when the time comes. In fact, one of my few gripes with the boot is that it has a fairly thin single leather outsole with no midsole. I could get them Topy’d but I’d rather wear through them quicker. In my opinion boots should not have leather soles, with the exception being dressy balmoral boots such as Meermin’s 101477 or Edward Green’s Shannon. If boots are made to be worn in harsher conditions they need a sturdier sole to go with them.

For sizing, there is no clear consensus with some people saying the boots run true to size and others a half size large. I went true to size (10.5) because I had no choice and I’m glad I did, although keep in mind that my Brannock size is more of a 10.75. Length-wise they fit great with no heel slippage although they feel a bit roomy in the forefoot when wearing thin socks. With thicker wool socks they fit perfectly. Because the shaft and tongue are unlined, the boot flexes quite comfortably at the ankle.



All in all, I’m very happy that I have these and I look forward to wearing them for years to come.

Currently, size 10 and 10.5 are available full price at O’Connell’s and many sizes for a lot more at Son of a Stag in the UK. They also seem to show up on eBay quite often, although be wary that some are seconds from Allen Edmonds’ Shoe Bank.



For more shell cordovan goodness check out my post on my AE Cambridge’s.

After approx. 20 wears

#562/1000 special “Hell Cordovan” edition