Author Notes

Though popularized in postwar America, the practice of serving boiled, spiced eggs as an appetite-stimulating first course (called gustatio) can be traced to Ancient Roman dinner parties. Stuffed eggs as party appetizers remained trendy throughout the following millenium, but referring to spiced foods as “deviled” only became popular in 18th-century Great Britain.



Deviled eggs are a study in simple things done right: Hard-boil as many eggs as you have dinner guests, split them pole to pole, then transfer the crumbly yolks to a small bowl. To this bowl, add something sharp (Dijon mustard), spicy ( cayenne pepper), and creamy (mayonnaise). Mash until it just holds together. Pipe or spoon the filling back into the boiled egg-white halves—whether you do this with a piping bag fitted with a star tip or just two spoons is totally up to you.



Deviled eggs are not only make-ahead friendly; they benefit greatly from it, as well. Cook and peel the eggs up to a week in advance. The fridge rest will make for cleaner splits and thus, a neater presentation. If not prepping ahead, no sweat—just be sure to let the boiled eggs cool completely before peeling and halving. Prepare the filling only up to a day in advance—any longer and the flavor and texture (especially if you’re including finely chopped acidic things) will go, ha, sour. Store the filling in a sealable container or reusable plastic bag; simply scoop, or snip and pipe when ready to serve.



By combining her Southern sensibilities with the restraint of her French training, Virginia Willis' deviled eggs just happen to do everything right. There’s a secret ingredient here, too, one that Willis picked up in culinary school: butter. Just a tad. Mixed in while it's soft, it rounds and smooths over the more acidic ingredients and renders the filling creamy without overtaking it. A few classic players—mayonnaise, mustard, and cayenne—hover at the edges, so the richness of the yolk still shines. A speckling of fresh herbs stirred in at the end lifts everything up.



Adapted very slightly from Bon Appetit, Y'all (Ten Speed Press, 2008) —Genius Recipes