“Part of it has been gentrified, so you’ll find trendy bars and restaurants right next to slums,” he added. “There are a lot of poverty-stricken people here, borderline homeless.”

Falling In

Yet in Clock Alley, it continues to be business as usual from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. every day (except Sunday) for most shop owners and repairmen, including Park Jong-hyun, 73. He sat in his closetlike shop, its walls lined with shelves holding rows and rows of brown boxes, all containing old watch cases.

Still, his shop seemed to be the busiest on the street — perhaps because it was filled with laughter. Throughout the day there was a flow of customers, most of whom sat for a while on the small bench right next to his work station. “I opened this shop here in 1986 but learned the repair skills in 1962,” Mr. Park said. “Back then we didn’t get to choose our vocation, I just fell into it.”

Most of the visitors were walk-ins and repeat customers. One man, a regular who had called that morning to be sure Mr. Park was open, brought three quartz watches needing new batteries. Five minutes and 10,000 won, or almost $9, later, he was on his way out.

So when does Mr. Park plan on retiring? “I’ll be here until God takes me,” he said.