TO THE FOUR QUESTIONS that form the basis of the Seder, wine lovers habitually add a fifth: where is it written that kosher wine must be sweet, thick and unpalatable? Though some Jews retain a sentimental attachment to the jamlike pleasures of Concord grape wines, many desire something better. Much better.

Fortunately, many years have passed since observant Jews were compelled to subject themselves to the plague of bad wine. Now, the kosher choices are vast and the quality fairly high. The Haggadah, the special book that tells the story of Passover and gives directions for the Seder, calls for four cups of wine with the meal. With what I easily found in stores, I could plan a Seder with one sparkling, one white, one red and one fortified without straying from the kosher path.

As a sherry lover, I was thrilled to discover a kosher version of Tío Pepe, a classic fino. At the Seder, a dish of saltwater is traditionally placed on the table, a reminder of the Red Sea, which the Israelites crossed in their escape from Egypt, and of the tears of slavery. I would like to think that drinking a good fino like Tío Pepe, with its tangy, saline flavors, might likewise be an excellent method of reinforcing this association.

Wine at the Seder table symbolizes the joy of life, and no wine does this better than sparkling wine. Why not Champagne at a ceremonial gathering of family and friends? The Drappier Carte d’Or, a straightforward nonvintage Champagne that is both amply fruity and engagingly light, comes in a kosher version that is highly satisfying, except perhaps for the price. I paid $60 for it, about 10 percent more than for the nonkosher version, which is not atypical. I could have found other Champagnes, like Louis de Sacy or Laurent-Perrier, but they would have cost even more.