Away from the crowded streets of Croatia’s usual tourist haunts, the fashion-conscious city of Šibenik – where electricity first flowed – has a thriving festival scene, dazzling Dalmatian vistas and a good line in complaining

In five words

Hidden, bohemian and otherworldly sunsets



Sound of the city

Silence, and then the sound of church bells crashing in. With 24 churches and six monasteries, not many other cities can sing this chorus like Šibenik. The bells ring every half hour – it’s as though the city were talking to you, telling you its stories. That’s the city’s sound from September through to May, until the noise of tourists on the streets takes over.

The best building

Facebook Twitter Pinterest The small city of 46,000 people is home to 24 churches. Photograph: Jure Živković

In my opinion, St James Cathedral is the most important architectural monument of the 15th and 16th centuries in Croatia. This impressive structure was built on the site of an old Romanic church next to the sea, taking 105 years to build out of nothing more than stone blocks without bonding compounds. As a result, the cathedral looks exactly the same on the outside as it does within.



During the Croatian war of independence in the early 1990s, the cathedral was bombed, causing severe damage to the dome, which had to be disassembled and restored. This unfortunate event was also an opportunity to make a detailed analysis of the unique architectural technique used for its construction. The cathedral is also decorated with 71 sculptures of men, women and children – the first time in Europe that everyday people were put in context of a sacral object.

Homegrown talent

The Fog Sellers are an experimental band recognised for their innovative tunes. The trio plays a combination of electronic and jazz sounds – which could be classified as “lounge music” – and their instruments create an unexpected sound.

Top insider’s tip



If you want a local to help you find a street by its name, you are out of luck. Here, in most cases, folks use street names that are passed down from generation to generation, with meanings known only to them. But that shouldn’t deter you from walking through many of the little stone-covered streets that have been walked upon for almost a millennium. If only floors could talk!

You should also find a spot to hear klapa music performed live – it will give you goosebumps, even if you don’t understand the words. This type of folk singing has been inscribed in the Unesco Intangible Cultural Heritage list, and is definitely not to be missed.

The look on the street

This is definitely a city where fashion takes a very high place – perhaps even a little too high. While locals tend to be fairly open-minded, it won’t stop them spending two hours people-watching on the Riviera and sniping about their dress sense. Thanks to Šibenik’s pleasant climate, sunglasses are essential. It’s more likely that you’ll forget the house keys than your shades.

Most underrated location

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Azimut, former home to Šibenik’s water supply, is now a cultural centre. Photograph: Sanja Lydia Kulušić

Azimut is a cultural centre that provides a window into the Dalmatian festival scene, while bringing people together and helping artists in their creative processes. It’s situated right below St Jacobs Cathedral in what looks like an enormous medieval vault. The space used to be the source of the city’s water supply and if you look up at the roof, you’ll find four 16th-century wells. The space holds concerts, exhibitions, literary events and comedy nights.



Not all of Šibenik’s locals celebrate this creative hub. When it first opened three years ago and young people flocked to its gigs, the town bishop (who lives next door) banned the fun due to inappropriate noise levels, and Azimut was forced to close its main stage.

Moment in history



Most people think the first place to transmit electricity was Buffalo, New York (via Niagra Falls). In fact, the title should go to little Šibenik, where the first electricity flowed through wires more than 120 years ago. The genius behind this modern innovation was Nikola Tesla, the eccentric, spiritual Croatian after whom Tesla electric cars are named. His innovation, made on the famous river Krka, was more than just a power plant: it was an entire electroenergetic system with a complete cycle of producing, transmitting and distributing alternative current using wooden power lines to Šibenik, 11.5km away.

Best cultural Instagram

ŠibenikIn’s photos show the unwavering natural beauty of this city and its surroundings, its rich history, and the people who live here.

Biggest controversy

As a small town on the Adriatic coast, Šibenik pretty much lives off tourism, and visitors are often the main talking point when it comes to our economic survival. In the summer months, Šibenik becomes a festival city, with 18 of them held in the area.

Recently, however, two of the most important festivals announced they would cease operations. The papers are still buzzing with headlines about the cultural death of the town, and many wonder what will be left of a city that had only barely awoken from its prolonged hibernation. Locals even organised a “cultural funeral” for the city, complete with candles.



Best local artist



Peer through the window display of the famous Deni’s design store: the white atom-like sculptures are the work of Danijel Hrg, who began designing jewellery 20 years ago and in the past 12 years has consistently surprised locals with his public sculptures in Šibenik’s streets and squares.



What does your city do better than anywhere else?

The people of Šibenik are the very best in the world at grumbling

The people of Šibenik are the very best in the world at grumbling. Here, everything that has to be done is preceded by a complaint. Then, when the task has finally been completed, there’s another round of grumbling about how it was done. The best phrase if you want to join in is “ajme meni”, loosely translated to “dear me”. For us, grumbling is enjoyable – and if this article was not spiced with a decent amount of it, I would not be a true Šibeniker myself!

From me

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Marina in her Croatian home city. Photograph: Nino Šolić

Marina Petkovic works for the City of Šibenik. You can follow her on Instagram here.

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