Pope Francis arrives today looking to build closer ties between the Catholic and Orthodox churches. Whereas Ilia II, the Patriarch, will welcome the pontiff, some of his followers oppose the visit; such dialogue raises hackles in ultra-conservative Orthodox circles. Since Georgia regained independence in 1991, national identity has become entwined with religious belief; to be Georgian is to be Orthodox. That gives the church political clout, which it is not above exploiting. Ilia II’s closest spiritual ally is Patriarch Kirill, his counterpart in Moscow. With the Kremlin keen to stress its Orthodox credentials, some see the Georgian church as a vehicle for Russian soft power. Church leaders reject that charge, but join Russia in opposing what they see as forms of Western decadence, such as gay rights. Either way, Russian influence over Georgia has been creeping up in recent years. Parliamentary elections on October 8th will provide a measure of its success.