Overlooked & Forgotten: Egypt’s Historic Port Said

One of the most important Egyptian ports on the Mediterranean Sea, Port Said city is located in northeastern Egypt, bordering the Suez Canal. The canal is considered one of the biggest crossing traffic ports in the world, linking Europe with the East.

Certainly the most biased post as my family originally hails from Port Said, many of whom are still living in the beautiful port city. The city was founded in 1859 and has since grown tremendously with fortified influence from the French, the English and locals. Now, ambushed by a growing number of high rises and remnants of what used to be the bustling heart of Egypt.

Naturally, this historic city is overlooked but here’s a refreshing pictorial guide in an attempt to capture what’s left.

The Cornishe

Running along the waterfront is a raised pedestrian-only 8km boardwalk that’s best for close up views of the canal’s entry point. The boardwalk is now filled with little shops selling everything from clothes to electronics, but will soon turn into an open-air center.

De Lesseps Statue Base

The remains of what used to be a 33 foot bronze statue of Ferdinand de Lesseps at the entrance of the Suez Canal. It was built in 1899. But in response to the 1956 Suez Crisis, the statue was removed, and is now located in a shipyard in Port Fouad.

Port Said Lighthouse

The oldest concrete lighthouse in the world, built in 1860, now fenced off but picturesque nonetheless.

Simon Arzt Building

Along the cornishe, there are hundreds of buildings with a deeply rich history. The Simon Arzt building was the first department store in Port Said which opened sometime in the 1920s. Simon Arzt was a galore of imported goods from all over the globe, thanks to the canal.

Casa D’Italia

Designed by the famous Italian architect Clemente Busiri Vici, somewhere between 1936 & 1937. It was later inaugurated by Benito Mussolini in October 1938.

Suez Canal Authority Building

You can’t miss this gigantic administrative building standing alone on the canal, it’s perfect pastel colors stand out amid the water.

At the tip, you’ll also spot the free ferry or Maadeya that crosses over to the suburb of Port Fouad.

Train Station

Re-opened for public use in 2017, this historic building is a massive work of art. Although operational, many visit the train station to admire the massive paintings lining the walls of the main entrance.

Historic Housing District

Built as a housing district for Port Authority employees, this historic strip of two-story buildings, their veranda and enclosed gardens, is worth a walk. Many still live in the homes, and you can see their clothes hanging to dry and marked reserved parking spaces. The recent Egyptian soap opera, Layali Eugenie, was partially filmed here!

Manshiah Square

An average square with a myriad of historic buildings and a small garden in the roundabout.

The Obelisk of Martyrs

Commemorating the martyrs of Port Said, the Pharaonic shaped obelisk is right on the main 23rd of July street. Right underneath this monument is the Museum of Modern Art in Port Said.

The Beach

Port Said’s history was built on its access to the Mediterranean Sea and later on the Suez Canal. The coastal town is now bustling with beach cafes, restaurants and lounging areas. Check out places like Da Vinici Café, or Doaiah Beach & Kite Club.

Churches & Mosques

There are dozens of mosques and churches throughout the port city, here are a few worth checking out.

St. Therese Marionate Church

Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary

formally known as Diocese of the Virgin Mary and Archangel Michael Cathedral.

Saint Bishoy Coptic Orthodox Church

famed for its iconic portrait of St. Mary, which is claimed to produce holy oil.

St. Eugenie’s Catholic Church

Greek Orthodox Church

Diocese of the Virgin Mary and Archangel Michael Church

St. George Coptic Orthodox Church

Al Salam Mosque

Al Abassi Mosque

Museums

Military Museum

This little museum is full of exhibits documenting the 1956 Suez Crisis and the 1967 and 1973 wars with Israel. In the museum gardens you can view a few captured US tanks & other war trinkets.

Where to eat

Like any small town, Port Said is filled with cafes and mom & pop shops. And of course there’s no visiting this coastal city without delving into hefty a seafood meal. Although any local will recommend a home-made seafood buffet, the single most popular restaurant for fresh fish is without a doubt Kastan.

If you’re scouring for snacks around town, or aren’t too keen on seafood here are some other suggestions. For some of the best authentic grilled meats and Egyptian dishes in Port Said, Abdou Kofta is certainly the place to be.

When in Egypt, you must have feteer, or a flaky pastry filled with savory & sweet goodies. At Makhboza, a trendy little hole in the wall, you can order the perfect platters of freshly baked rolled feteer.

There’s nothing like a strong Turkish coffee or a delightful Egyptian desert. Makane is a popular café chain in Port Said, a perfectly cozy place for a morning bite or afternoon bite.

Perhaps the most captivating part of Port Said is the remaining (slightly preserved) architecture all around and the authenticity of the small town.

Port Fouad

The sister town of Port Said, is Port Fouad – easily accessible by the water ferry or Maadeya.

Al Salam Mosque

A warm welcome into Port Fouad, Al Salam Mosque greets visitors as you hop off the ferry. This is the second Al Salam mosque in the sister towns.

Beach

You can make your way to the beach at the end of the city. You’ll get some interesting views of balloon shaped lounging areas.