Print Author Topic: Creality CR10 V2 Standalone / All in One modification (Read 1238 times) CdRsKuLL Administrator

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Creality CR10 V2 Standalone / All in One modification « on: April 26, 2020, 02:14:00 AM »



The project has now been completed and I'm currently tweaking a new Marlin 2.0.5 firmware as the one shipped was shocking and didn't really work very well.



This is now one of my favorite printers and if you are after something in the lower end price bracket then I would recommend this, obviously with this mod and the firmware :-)



So.. here are some photos and instructions. The STL's are in the download section for this -







































Conversion kit to get rid of the external control and PSU.



Conversion items required



LCD Mount

2 off M4x10 (cap head or dome) set screws

2 off M4 T-Nuts



PSU Mount

2 off M3x10 (dome) set screws for the power connector

2 off M3 Nyloc nuts for the power connector

2 off M4x30 (cap head) for PSU mount

2 off M4 T-Nuts

220mm twin 24v power cable (original not long enough)

3 off M4x10mm screws to hold the PSU in

Self-tapping screw to earth into the aluminum frame



PSU Bracket

2 off M4x10 screw

2 off M4 T-Nuts



Mainboard Case

4 off M4x30 (cap head) for Case mount

4 off M4 T-Nuts

5 off M3x30 (cap head) for lid



Feet extenders

You might get away with using the supplied ones, but I used M5x30 I think they were.



Screws used from the original are the mainboard and LCD mounting screws



LCD Assembly

Build up the LCD mount with the screen, ribbon cables and screws. You will need to remove the side brace and cap, then slide the LCD mount with the screws in. Re-attach the brace and align and tighten the LCD mount up in the correct place.



PSU Mount

Insert the switch and the power connector and secure. Put all the wires through and once attached slide the PSU into its housing and secure with the 3 off M4x10mm screws. Mount on to the aluminum frame via the two T nuts. Slide the support bracket on and secure



Mainboard

Insert the mainboard and secure it. Insert both the wiring harness and bed connector. Attach the ribbon cables that are already attached to the LCD and mount via the 4 M4x30 and T-Nuts. Wire up the board and then put the 40mm fan and fan shroud in place. Finally, secure the lid in place.



I printed this all in PLA, only required supports for the PSU mount.



Any questions please fire away :-)



Steve

I managed to get hold of a CR10 V2 for a price I just couldn't say no. I wanted a new challenge of designing up an 'all in one' printer that gets rid of the controller box and all those cables.The project has now been completed and I'm currently tweaking a new Marlin 2.0.5 firmware as the one shipped was shocking and didn't really work very well.This is now one of my favorite printers and if you are after something in the lower end price bracket then I would recommend this, obviously with this mod and the firmware :-)So.. here are some photos and instructions. The STL's are in the download section for this - https://pretendprusa.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;cat=9 Conversion kit to get rid of the external control and PSU.2 off M4x10 (cap head or dome) set screws2 off M4 T-Nuts2 off M3x10 (dome) set screws for the power connector2 off M3 Nyloc nuts for the power connector2 off M4x30 (cap head) for PSU mount2 off M4 T-Nuts220mm twin 24v power cable (original not long enough)3 off M4x10mm screws to hold the PSU inSelf-tapping screw to earth into the aluminum frame2 off M4x10 screw2 off M4 T-Nuts4 off M4x30 (cap head) for Case mount4 off M4 T-Nuts5 off M3x30 (cap head) for lidYou might get away with using the supplied ones, but I used M5x30 I think they were.Screws used from the original are the mainboard and LCD mounting screwsBuild up the LCD mount with the screen, ribbon cables and screws. You will need to remove the side brace and cap, then slide the LCD mount with the screws in. Re-attach the brace and align and tighten the LCD mount up in the correct place.Insert the switch and the power connector and secure. Put all the wires through and once attached slide the PSU into its housing and secure with the 3 off M4x10mm screws. Mount on to the aluminum frame via the two T nuts. Slide the support bracket on and secureInsert the mainboard and secure it. Insert both the wiring harness and bed connector. Attach the ribbon cables that are already attached to the LCD and mount via the 4 M4x30 and T-Nuts. Wire up the board and then put the 40mm fan and fan shroud in place. Finally, secure the lid in place.I printed this all in PLA, only required supports for the PSU mount.Any questions please fire away :-)Steve « Last Edit: April 26, 2020, 02:21:30 AM by CdRsKuLL » HobGoblyn Newbie



Posts: 4



Re: Creality CR10 V2 Standalone / All in One modification « Reply #1 on: August 28, 2020, 12:04:23 PM » Many thanks, just what I'm looking for. On the last (but longest) part now, PSU Mount.



What would be really good, but I haven't a clue yet how to use tinkercad (although I'm trying), I've got both the Bigtreetech SKR MINI E3 V2.0 and the TFT35 E3 v3 touch screen (long story, short version, briefly owned Ender 3, returned it and got CR10 V2 instead), both should work with the CR10 V2, and I will probably give them a try at some point in the near future. The only thing that needs changing is the size of the screen hole on the LCD_front.STL. Screw holes are in the same place but the hole needs to be a little larger (the same size as it is on an Ender 3).



Can anyone confirm the exact size of the Ender 3 LCD window (as in the window on the printer, not the size of the LCD) please? And I'll try and work out how to make the hole bigger and see how I get on.



Many thanks Print 3DUK »

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