"Water sommelier" turned out not to be the pseudo-job that Time's Joel Stein expected it would be, he says after lunching with bottled water specialist Michael Mascha (no link available). Mr. Mascha, a former wine sommelier who has written a book about specialty water, quickly allayed Mr. Stein's skepticism by pre-emptively declaring that water has no smell, little taste and costs too much in most restaurants. But Mr. Mascha insists that high-quality bottled waters have unique mouthfeels that can affect a fine-dining experience. In Mr. Mascha's view, water, whether still or sparkling, has three distinct qualities: the...