25 July 2019 19:18 IST

Local and seasonal produce from the hills are gradually making their way to urban tables by way of pop-ups and promotions

Snow-capped mountains, sprawling meadows, deep forests and babbling brooks. Think of the Himalayas and the first thing that comes to mind is the abundance of Nature. But do you know that Nature also makes the region home to some of the most exotic cuisines in the country? Local, regional, and seasonal, while the food of the hills had so far been restricted to the home kitchens of the region, its uniqueness is steadily gaining popularity — one wholesome meal at a time.

“In the present-day context, what makes pahadi cuisine important is its sustainability,” says Rushina Munshaw Ghildiyal, author and culinary researcher, who works extensively with the cuisine and conducts workshops and pop-ups. “It is interesting to note,” adds Ghildiyal, “that principles like nose-to-tail eating, foraged greens, locally-grown lentils and millets, basically things that are touted as the newest trends around the globe, have always been a part of mountain cuisine.”

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This global trend could be one reason that is drawing more and more people to the cuisine; the other could be the effort put in by the culinary community. A sizeable chunk of chefs in the hotel industry come from the hills, and while they do adapt to the cities, they also carry their family recipes with them. Some of which have started to be showcased by way of food festivals, promotions, events, and pop-ups.

People travelling to the hills, meanwhile, are looking beyond the standard restaurant fare and demand authentic culinary experiences. “A lot of our guests want to try the local food,” Faisal Nafees, GM, lebua Corbett says. “They demand authentic flavours of the region and we are only too happy to include it in our menu,” he smiles.

The hill cuisine can be broadly divided into Uttarakhandi (Kumaoni and Garhwali), and Himachali (Upper and Lower Himachal). While the basic principles remain the same (think lentils, whole grains, plants, local spices), the treatment and flavour profiles vary, depending on the terrain and vegetation. “Even though the two states have similar climatic conditions and terrains,” says Chef Atul Upadhyay, executive sous chef at the Taj Palace, New Delhi, (who hails from Himachal), “the cuisines are fairly distinct.” Whole grains, dairy, rice and lentils dominate Himachali food; Uttarakhand meanwhile relies largely on millets, vegetables, greens and free-range meats.

Of bhang and jakhiya

While the bal mithai, a caramelised milk fudge made in the region, remains the most famous export of the Kumaon hills, the kitchens here have much more to offer. Kumaon, a sub region of Uttarakhand, differs from Garhwal, another sub region, in small but significant ways.

Since the people of the hills often do labour intensive work, the cuisine is meant to keep you nourished for long periods. Savoury pancakes, or cheela, made with mountain wheat, kafuli saag made with foraged greens, alu ki thechwani, made with crushed potatoes, bhat or soybean dal are common everyday meals.

Bhang or hemp is used widely in the form of chutneys and tempering, and mountain goat, free-range poultry, fish from the rivulets make for celebratory feasts. Rustic flavours, fresh produce, and exotic ingredients are the highlights of any Kumoani meal.

If Kumoan has its bhang, Garhwal takes pride in jakhiya. A local seed used extensively for tempering, jakhiya is intrinsic to Garhwali food.

The region also uses lentils extensively. “Garhwali meals,” informs Rushina, “are balanced with fats, carbohydrates, and greens; ghee is used widely, spices are minimal.” What sets the cuisine apart, however, is the use of millets. Jangura (banyard millet) is used for sweet porridges while mandua (finger millet) is used for rotis and unpolished rice is preferred.

Like Kumaon, mountain goat, and river trout are eaten regularly; offals are cherished and excess meat is pickled. The thread of local, regional and seasonal runs throughout too — even in desserts, which are tuned to the season and region.

Bread talk

Another element that binds the hill cuisines is respect for food. Food, say the locals, is not something to be consumed thoughtlessly. It is to be revered. Nothing represents the thought better than the Kangri Dham, a community meal cooked during celebrations, weddings or festivals in Himachal.

“Dham, a selection of various delicacies, is the most popular aspect of Himachali cuisine,” informs Chef Upadhyay. The cuisine, however, is too wide to be boxed into just one meal.

“The terrain in Himachal determines the food that we eat,” asserts Sherry Malhotra, a Himachali food expert, who conducts regular pop-ups of Himachali cuisine in Mumbai. People in the lower hills have access to vegetation and rely on foraged greens, lentils, and rice. The upper hill region, which is colder and often arid, uses a lot of meat. Buddhist and Tibetan influences ensure there is yak cheese, dry meat and fermented bread too.

“Bhaturu and siddu, the staple breads of Himachal, are both fermented,” says Sherry, “while siddu comes from Tibet, bhaturu, the deep-fried fermented bread, seems to have been born out of leftover dough.” Throwing food away, she says, was out of question.

Zero-waste, local, and seasonal, the principles surely remain constant through the region, but does the conscious cuisine find takers outside the hills?

“All my pop-ups are always sold out,” grins Rushina, whose Garhwali food events are sold out weeks in advance. “People who know their food really appreciate the cuisine,” smiles Sherry, whose food festivals and promotions are always a hit, and requests for more don’t stop. “With the way the demand for the cuisine is growing, I am sure that we would soon have it on our menus outside of the region too,” concludes Faisal.