The first days of spring bring many welcome changes.

The days are longer, temperatures are warmer and plants that lay dormant over the winter are beginning to come back to life. In Northern California, no plant better illustrates this cycle of death and rebirth than the pernicious wild fennel. At the end of every growing season, after the fennel has gone to seed, it leaves behind its towering stocks to die, a sort of skeletal reminder of the once-strong plants that lined riverbanks, hillsides and any stretch of clearing where it’s allowed to take hold.

In spring, new fronds rise up alongside the dead stocks, and the cycle begins again.

While small, these young fronds are incredibly fragrant, and possess a sweetness that’s absent in older, more weather-worn plants. In other words, they’re perfect for dessert. This recipe calls for a good deal of these fresh fronds, a half pound to be exact, and creates an intense liquorice flavor that pairs perfectly with the creaminess present in the custard base.

Spring is here and the days are getting warmer. Might as well cool off with a cup or cone of the good stuff.