Flame shirts are a special brand of sleaze. Unlike the gross-appealing machismo that comes with classics like open tops, mobster pinky rings, or pencil-thin mustaches, flame shirts may be the least sexy clothes in existence. Senior Vogue Market Editor Kirby Marzec connects them to “that weird heavy-metal-meets-grunge-mall-rat guy with the awful pointy beard, gelled spiky hair, and is totally drinking a Monster Energy drink.” Eek.

But Marzec isn’t so far off from how society views the flame shirt. It recalls a specific noughties-era type of a man: a hint of Smash Mouth, a drizzle of chin strap, and, of course, one large keg of peroxide bleach (for those gelled tips). But the best seared-in-the-brain example of the unforgettable look is Guy Fieri. Though he often wears a standard bowling shirt on top of a white tee, the donkey sauce–chugging TV personality and restaurateur was immortalized in a meme-ified image of himself in the campy flame shirt. (Saturday Night Live dedicated an unaired sketch to Fieri and his flame shirt back in 2012). Fun fact: Fieri reportedly disliked the flame shirt he became so synonymous with.

Fast-forward to 2018 and Fieri might want to revisit that shirt as it is surprisingly on-trend. The classic flame graphic with ends curled up like a biochemical hazard symbol came licking down the men’s runway for Fall 2018. It turned up on T-shirts as prints and in the form of a necklace pendant at Dior Homme. It also cameoed as black squiggles on the jeans at Vetements. Kolor showed a Thrasher-like logo of electric blue and nuclear orange tongues eating the phrase “Uneven.” Unsurprisingly at SSS World Corp, a label rooted in bad boy appeal, there was a short-sleeved button-up shirt that boasted emoji-type flames swallowing skulls. Even Prada sent out a camp shirt with airbrushed flames. On the women’s front, Rihanna wore a flaming fur coat and Vetements goth-stomping flame heels two days ago.