Alary’s Bar is serving a full menu for the first time in its 70 year history. New owners Justin Greer and Nick Peterson heard from customers saying they wanted more food options, so they got busy constructing a kitchen.

Before, the downtown St. Paul neighborhood joint was only offering pizza. Food was more of an afterthought to soak up drinks while catching up with friends or watching a Minnesota Wild or Chicago Bears game (former Chicago Bears player Al Baisi and Larry Lehner were the original owners and it continues to be a Bears bar). Adding more menu items was a welcome addition by any means, and the owners could have easily phoned it in.

But they’re doing anything but. They’ve brought in Mik German, a restaurant veteran whose resume includes O’Gara’s, to head the kitchen. He’s taking the menu, made up of four categories — appetizers, soups and salads, sandwiches and burgers — beyond your average bar food.

We tried a variety of sandwiches and they were all winners.

We especially like the bison brisket reuben — a great spin on a classic with the quality in the details. Grass-fed bison is sourced from Silver Bison Ranch out of Baldwin, Wis. The bison brisket is made in house at Alary’s with a process that includes a five day brine, special seasoning and slow cooking that produce slices so enjoyable we could have eaten them on their own like we do bacon. House-made thousand island dressing, with details like diced pickles and capers, also brings the quality up a few notches.

You also can’t go wrong with the Fried Chicken Sandwich where chicken breast marinated in buttermilk comes out tender and juicy and the coating a nice golden crisp. An herb mayo offers some heat and acid, and it’s served on a great-tasting brioche bun. Burgers here, elevated with details such as taking the hand patties and smashing on a flat top grill for a nice sear, house-made pickles and, like the Fried Chicken Sandwich, that great tasting brioche bun, are also worth ordering again and again.

All of these come with a choice of sides, and we found you can’t go wrong with any but we especially liked the hand cut fries.

To start off your meal, it’s worth considering the fried Baby Dill Frickles that are great to share and warm up for the main event.

Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of new or changed restaurants.

ALARY’S BAR

Where: 139 E. 7th St., St. Paul

For more information: 651-224-7717; alarys.com

Prices: Starters, soups and salads $4 to $14; burgers and sandwiches $8 to $14.