Yes they do have running water, Mogadishu is a big city.

I'm guessing you're not Somali right? Our community is somewhat intolerant of differences. We want to remain the same and keep our culture, our culture connects us. Generally tourism has spiked since the terrorist groups have been kicked out, but you still might get some stares and interested looks coming your way. That's common, that means they're interested and want to get to know you better. A simple "Salam Aleikum" will do, we love to talk and Somalis are very open in conversations. Everyone is a brother and sister to us and you'll feel like you're at home in no time.

We are mainly Muslims, so if you want to assimilate you should be aware of our Islamic beliefs. Islam brings us together and largely influences our community, anything that offends our beliefs or is considered disrespectful and will make you unpopular fast. Most Somalis speak English, but you should at least try to learn basic Somali phrases just so you can feel more comfortable. We are very welcoming people, so if you are given gifts or food denying it will offend some. Most Somalis have a sense of humor, so if you are the only one not laughing at a joke they might think you're strange in some way.

The civil war is still a sensitive topic for many Somalis. A lot of people have been harmed both internally and externally, and talking about it may bring back horrible memories they are trying to block out. It would be best if you weren't to mention it, unless you are trying to make a point on focusing on the positives of today and rebuilding the country despite years of war.

I'm planning on going to Hargeysa as well so no I'm not too jealous. Have a nice trip!