An impaired skin barrier is likely the source of most skin problems. In this post I’ll be explaining how to restore your skin’s damaged moisture barrier, how to know if your skin barrier is even damaged in the first place, skincare ingredients that can worsen an already bad moisture barrier, ingredients to avoid and ingredients to use that aids in its repair.

The skin’s moisture barrier is the outermost layer of the epidermis also known as stratum corneum. The stratum corneum directly protects the skin from external or environmental factors that may be harmful. Our skin’s moisture barrier is sometimes referred to as Acid Mantle or Hydro Lipid Layer.

Diagnosing a Damaged Moisture Barrier

When the moisture barrier gets damaged, it’s not necessarily something you see but you definitely feel it. A bad moisture barrier may manifest in form

Redness.

Tightness. Sometimes accompanied by a pulling sensation or feeling.

Excessive Greasiness. This is a result of overactive sebaceous glands that have been triggered.

Excessive Dryness. Accompanied by greasiness that is visible to others while your skin mostly feels dry.

Irritations. Your skin will get irritated upon applications of products.

Fine lines.

What Causes a Damaged Skin Moisture Barrier?

A damaged skin barrier occurs as a result of some factors.

Overexfoliation: Frequent use of exfoliating acids such as Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids can lead to damage of the skin’s moisture barrier. Please refer to The Exfoliation Guide for how to use exfoliants correctly.

Retinoids and Vitamin C: While not being exfoliants, overuse of retinoids and Vitamin C can lead to soreness of the skin.

Extreme Weather Conditions: Extreme dry heat/cold is a common cause of damage to the skin’s moisture barrier.

Harsh Ingredients: Harsh ingredients like Sodium Lauryl Sulfate which is commonly found in cleansers can impair the skin’s barrier. These ingredients are added to cleansers so as to achieve that squeaky clean feeling. If you feel squeaky clean after cleansing, there’s a good chance your cleanser contains SLS which is very stripping thus damaging the moisture barrier.

Physical Exfoliants: Most physical cleansers have hard ingredients in them that tear up the skin when used. I used to own a St Ives scrub that I loved so much. I’d spend a solid 5 minutes scrubbing in the shower and would refuse to stop until I felt sore. To my teenage self, the harder I scrubbed, the better it worked. If only that were true.

How to Treat a Damaged Moisture Barrier

The very first step to treating a bad moisture barrier is to address the culprit. Stop all exfoliation, throw away that cleanser or scrub, take a step back from the retinoids. Remove all actives from your routine and get back to basics (Cleansing Moisturizing and Sun Protection). If you can get away with it, ditch the cleanser for only lukewarm water in the morning or just find a very hydrating facial cleanser.

Stay away from makeup if possible to minimize the chances of irritating the skin further. Also, avoid touching your face except when doing your routine. Do not steam your face while you wait for it to heal. Most importantly, do not put stuff from the kitchen (yoghurt, lemon, tomatoes) on your face.

Avoid products containing fragrance, simple alcohols, citrus extracts and essential oils.

Products containing ceramides are absolutely necessary if you want to repair your skin’s damaged moisture barrier. Embrace products containing hyaluronic acid, ceramides, cholesterol, snail mucin, Niacinamide, Allentoin, glycerin, centella.

Perfect Routine for Repairing a Damaged Barrier

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Hydrating Gentle Cleanser

This gentle cleanser removes dirt and grime without stripping the skin of its natural oil. It also contains ceramides and niacinamide which all work together to reinforce the skin’s barrier.

The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid Serum: Hydration is key in the repair of a damaged barrier. This hydrating serum is perfect for the job because not only is it very affordable, it contains hyaluronic acid of different sizes. Apply once or twice daily to damp skin to maximize its effects.

* Optional Cosrx Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence: This hydrating essence is naturally gotten from snail slime and packed with hyaluronic acid and glycoproteins. It helps damaged skin by speeding up the rate of wound healing.

La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Moisturizer: This moisturizer contains niacinamide and three types of ceramides which is a plus if you’re trying to heal your moisture barrier.

Purito Centella Green Level Unscented Sunscreen: This is perhaps the most important step of a routine seeking to address an impaired barrier. This sunscreen is the gentlest sunscreen there is. Packed with centella asiatica and Niacinamide plus zero white cast.

Cerave Healing Ointment: This healing ointment is formulated with hyaluronic acid, cholesterol and ceramides to protect, soothe and hydrate. It can be used as an occlusive to seal in your entire routine.

Depending on the severity of the damage, a wait time of 2-6 weeks is advised before introducing actives again. Exfoliants are introduced from once a week and then the skin’s response is observed before stepping up frequency in order to avoid overwhelming the skin again.

Check out other great barrier repairing products below!

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