I’m not sure what compelled the “Tacos of Texas” book guys to declare Taquería Datapoint “The only taquería in San Antonio that matters.” It matters to me that they don’t make their own flour tortillas. It matters to me that it took so long. It matters to me that the outside looks like a bomb shelter. Does it matter that it’s next to a laundromat? If the true measure of what matters is what shows up on the plate, I’m willing to keep an open mind.

Tacos: Ask for the specialty of the house and they’ll point right to the mini-tacos. Five to a plate on doubled-up corn tortillas for $7.49 with a choice of tripas, carne asada, barbacoa, carnitas or pastor. For an extra 75 cents, they’ll throw a mix of everything but the barbacoa across all five. It’s called “A La Yaka,” and it’s a hot mess, in both the good and the bad ways. Good because there’s a pile of avocado, cilantro and grilled onions in the center and the tripas are as crispy as Cheetos, just like I ordered. Bad because so is everything else. With everything piled together, the overcooking turns everything the same shade of dark brown, with a vague oil-and-meat flavor that renders the pork parts indistinguishable from the beef parts. The weird part? It’s as compulsively appetizing as buttered popcorn. Simple breakfast tacos — chorizo and egg, papas rancheras, beans and chorizo — start at $1.85 and rise to $2.49 for chilaquiles, migas and anything “a la Mexicana.”

Tortillas: We’ve established that the flour tortillas come from a bag. Which leaves the maîz question open, because these mini-tortillas have the uniform look of machine-made. But flexible layers of comforting corn flavor suggest otherwise, and it doesn’t matter so much what, or who, made them.

Salsa: A pair of fresh, medium-hot salsas to satisfy your jalapeño-tomatillo green side and your smoky chile de arbol red side.

Location: 4063 Medical Drive, 210-615-3644, Facebook: Taquería Datapoint

Rating: Once was enough

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Twitter: @fedmanwalking