A kid at the crag wanted to try to flash a steep, cruxy 12b, which would have been his most impressive flash by far. The hardest moves are right off the ground and ease up considerably after the 2nd bolt, leading to a mostly juggy pump-fest to the chains. Standard protocol is to stick clip the 2nd bolt, where blowing the tough clip would certainly be disastrous. I gave the kid, who boulders stronger than I do, beta. Good beta. He climbed through the crux, and the very moment the 2nd bolt was at his waist, he said "Take!"

Huh?

He then proceeded to go bolt-to-bolt to the top, looking shaky the whole way. After a rest, he tied in under a nearby 13a. "Aren't you going to try the 12b again?" I asked.

"No, I'd just send it, so I'm going to move on."

Huh?