I drove by the Edison Automat for months before I figured out what it actually was.

No, it’s not a laundromat. And it doesn’t have anything to do with cars, nor is it an actual “automat” — a turn-of-the-century style restaurant where items sat behind self-serve windows like a giant vending machine.

So what is it? It’s a cafe in a space that was once a beloved local deli (one that belonged to the current owner’s family). It’s a coffee shop that’s developed a diehard following for its pancakes, of all things. And it’s also one of the highest rated restaurants in the state on Yelp, all while not serving dinner.

Want more food and restaurant news? Enter your email address to be the first to know:

It’s also not at all what owner Matthew Pulomena thought it would be. The 36-year-old South Plainfield native set out to create a speciality coffee shop (they serve Jersey-favorite Booskerdoo) with “just some light fare."

Then his menu started earning rave reviews and growing by the day.

The “Automat” name is an homage to the location and the man — Thomas Edison dreamed of one day opening an automat-like general store. The art on the walls reflects it, as does the lightbulb-meets-coffee cup logo. The name came after Pulomena’s wife, a visual artist, started designing the space in Art Deco style.

“It was a silly accident like most great things are," Pulomena says. "We realized it could seem like a laundromat or autopart shop, and, on first impression, that seemed like bad idea.”

But Pulomena was (and still is) a musician before he turned unintentional restaurateur. How things sound matters to him. Something about it worked.

“It had a snap to it," he says. “And nostalgia. ‘We’re going to the Automat.’”

The menu: To drink, there’s hot coffee, espresso, lattes, plus a nice tea selection, hot chocolate and hot cider. The labor of love, though, is the cold brew. Pulomena, a perfectionist, does all the time-consuming work — steeping (24-hours worth in filtered water) and kegging it — himself.

For breakfast, there are omelets, granola, a quinoa bowl, French toast, a breakfast burrito and various breakfast sandwiches. (Try the Cali with fried egg, turkey bacon, avocado, cheddar and honey mustard on a brioche bun.)

On the lunch menu, there’s a sandwich for just about every protein — a hot ham with brie and fig jam sandwich, a turkey sloppy “Josephine," a portabella take that dresses up the 'shrooms like a cheesesteak and lots, lots more. Vegetarians (and anyone who loves a burger, really) will appreciate the Mac Cadillac, a Beyond burger done Big Mac style. (There are also daily specials.)

The winner of all, though, are their esteemed “cloud” pancakes, made light and fluffy with whipped egg whites. We topped ours with strawberries and bananas and had them for dessert.

The vibe: The space is modern and clean with a black and white motif, subway tiles and wide-plank wood floors. (Plus, outdoor seating when it’s warm.) We watched it morph from subdued and cozy around noon to much louder with every table full over the hour or so we were there. Go early to beat the rush.

I loved: Those freaking light-as-air pancakes. I dare say they’re the best I’ve ever had. And my very first Beyond burger? Delish, and topped with enough fixings to make me forget it ain’t beef. The hash browns are an excellent side, all crunch, no sog. I also had a silky smooth cappuccino with latte art on top, served in one of those mugs that’s more like a bowl with a handle. I’m eager to return and eat my way through more of the menu.

Service: So much at the Automat was truly, deservedly five-star, that I wish the service matched, but alas. There were the minor things — like a cappuccino with no spoon, and later, no saucer to hold the wet spoon — and then the major one: a mid-day rush stole all of our server’s attention. After trying to flag her multiple times, I gave up and went to the front counter thrice, once for a plate to split our pancakes, again for a box for leftovers, and finally, to get and pay the check because we were so late getting back to work. Still, I’m merciful: The Automat has only been open a year and a half and is still sorting out its identity and processes. Maybe it was an off day.

Online ratings: The rarely seen full 5 stars on Yelp; 4.7 on Google

Instagram: instagram.com/edisonautomat/

Location and details: 1963 Oak Tree Road, Edison. Open Tuesday through Saturday from 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.

The bottom line: A must-visit for coffeeheads, brunch buffs, vegetarians who want something that actually tastes like a burger or a cheesesteak, and anyone who likes pancakes.

Jessica Remo is a columnist and reporter on the features team. She may be reached at jremo@njadvancemedia.com. Follow her on Twitter @JessicaRemoNJ. Find NJ.com on Facebook.