SANTA CRUZ >> Fresh, green and vibrant, that’s what much of the country thinks of as a description of spring. But we in coastal California know that this more accurately describes the onset of winter, once we’ve received the first of the season’s rain. This year, in particular, the parched ground has responded to the early sips of cool moisture, which will hopefully be the harbinger of more to come.

My favorite edible “early-responder” is the well-loved native plant commonly known as miner’s lettuce. It is also sometimes called Indian lettuce, spring beauty, winter purslane and, in Latin, Claytonia perfoliata.

Claytonia is not a true lettuce but it has an association with miners from stories of its importance in contributing to the narrow diet of those hardy souls that arrived early in California chasing gold and fortune. Miner’s lettuce has been my favorite forest snack since I was a kid. Not only because it is easy to recognize, even for children, but because I have always associated it with my grandpa, who was born in the gold-mining camp of Bodie, now a legendary ghost town. I have no idea if grandpa ate miner’s lettuce, but I have always fondly associated it with him.

Its easy recognition, as well as its unusual beauty, come from the way the mature leaves form an almost complete circle around the stem, with the small white flowers nestled at the bottom of the bowl-like leaves. It doesn’t take on the distinctive round leaves however, until it is ready to flower, a ways into its life cycle. The first leaves to emerge from the soil are the long, thin cotyledons followed by arrow or heart-shaped leaves, usually with a longish stem. It is not until the flower stems emerge that the plant gets its widely known round leaves that will nestle the flower buds. So if you aren’t already familiar with this little plant you could easily mistake its early stages for completely different plants.

In the kitchen, I think the best leaves for eating are the arrow-shaped ones. Plus, these can be harvested individually while keeping the growing plant intact in the ground, so that it can continue to produce leaves as well as seed. If you don’t catch it at this stage, miner’s lettuce is still delicious even after it flowers, which also adds a singular beauty to a salad plate. The leaves are usually moist and mild until far into their lifespan, unlike lettuce or other greens that get bitter with age. The leaves and stems can be used in any way that you would lettuce or spinach, best appreciated in salads but also nice added to sandwiches or featured as part of an appetizer. They are a beautiful final flourish on a cheesy spread or even a fruit plate, for example. They can also be cooked, but they tend to almost disappear because of their high water content and general lack of fibers, so for this reason, I think they are best added to soups or served just warmed by a heated dressing.

Miner’s lettuce is commonly found, on the Central Coast, in shady oak woodlands and winter-moist meadows. But it naturally occurs in a variety of habitats from Alaska to Mexico and inland into the Sierra and beyond. It stays much smaller and goes to seed faster in sunny or dry habitats, compared to a cool coastal environment.

If you are gathering it from a natural area, be sure that you have permission to gather and that no herbicides have been used in the vicinity. Don’t be greedy, as the plants are an important food source for wild animals and you must leave plenty to set seed for next years population. Even better is to grow some for yourself, it is a great addition to a low-maintenance garden or a shady spot in a small yard.

In fact, miner’s lettuce is another one of our native plants better appreciated abroad than at home. It has been grown in Europe for generations and is known there as winter purslane.

Miner’s lettuce is a treat plucked straight from the ground, into your mouth, as children love to do. Of course, you could try and re-create the Native American salad that is said to have involved cooperative ants invited to crawl over the leaves with their distinctive tangy trails as a natural “dressing.” If this doesn’t seem practical for a weekday dinner, check out the suggestions for appreciating this California native plant.

Joy Albright-Souza is a garden designer specializing in California sustainable landscapes. She shares her perspective on creating and enjoying gardens at www.per-joy.com and she can be reached by email at design@albrightsouza.com