Saturday

5) 9:30 A.M. Coffee and Casas

It’s possible to see most of the historic sites in the city center in a few hours. Start at the Palacio de los López, the neoclassical seat of government, built by and named after the 19th-century political dynasty. Stroll east along the riverside parks (some with sobering tent cities) to the Cabildo (free), a cultural center that once housed the senate and is now worth visiting primarily for the room of shamanic crowns made from feathers, costumes worn for initiation ceremonies, and other items collected from indigenous groups. From here, swing by the Panteón Nacional de los Héroes, a chapel and mausoleum for the bodies of fallen soldiers and Paraguay’s first president. Then loop west again to visit Casa de la Independencia (free), a stunning colonial house that was the site of Paraguay’s declaration of independence. Get caffeinated at Café Consulado — which has the best coffee in town, and often has interesting art exhibits as well.

6) 11:30 A.M. Art and Park

A small gallery in a beautiful residential space, Hepner represents Paraguay’s up and coming artists (they also deal in 19th- and early-20th-century work). A recent show of Waldo Longo’s work, “Bestia Pop” (beast pop), displayed bright, cartoonish paintings by the dynamic local artist. If you drop by for a visit, ask to see work by Fidel Fernandez and Enrique Collar, both names to remember. Afterward, take advantage of the adjacent Parque de Salud (health park), which has jogging paths and patches of trees so dense there have been reports of monkey sightings. It’s a much-needed refuge from the Asunción heat, which can be intense.

7) 1 P.M. Try Tereré

Head to Villa Morra, one of the city’s tonier districts, for a late brunch at El Café de Acá. With outdoor and indoor seating, this is a favorite in all seasons, with a menu of American-style breakfasts like waffles and French toast, plus local treats like churros with dulce de leche and eggs scrambled with manioc and cheese. If you’ve wanted to try the tereré (iced yerba mate), this is one of the few places that has it on the menu. Brunch for two, around 130,000 guaraníes.

For a deep dive into Paraguayan culture, explore the Museo del Barro. Credit Dado Galdieri for The New York Times



8) 3 P.M. Buy Local

The more expensive eastern neighborhoods of the city are home to boutiques specializing in housewares, crafts and clothes by local designers. Pick up colorful braided rugs at Nde Valé, which also sells delicately glazed ceramic plates and cups. The tiny boutique Oh! Sí, a 20-minute stroll southeast, is an essential stop for locally made, chic women’s clothing, from strappy summer dresses to bikinis in bright colors.

9) 5 P.M. Art and Artifacts

For a deep dive into Paraguayan culture, from visual arts to indigenous traditions, explore the Museo del Barro (free). Its three spaces are connected: One is a collection of contemporary Paraguayan art; another displays artifacts that begin with pre-Colombian ceramics and includes Christian icons and statues from 17th- and 18th-century Jesuit missions. The most powerful is the collection of indigenous art. The elaborate shamanic costumes, masks, feathered headdresses and crowns made from jaguar fur are awe-inspiring and powerful, and a testament to the strength of the country’s indigenous cultures.

10) 9 P.M. Fancy Fare

Tierra Colorada, helmed by the chef Rodolfo Angenscheidt, is the heavyweight of Asunción’s fine dining scene. Mr. Angenscheidt’s focus is on traditional dishes, which arrive in unusual formats, gussied up with out-of-the-ordinary ingredients. Surubí, a river fish usually found in stews, comes grilled on volcanic stones with carrot cream and roast vegetables, while a starter of pajagua, a fried patty commonly made with yucca and beef, is stuffed instead with langoustines and served with a yellow pepper purée. While part of the menu sticks with European classics, they’re often given a local twist, like gnocchi made from manioc flour. Dinner for two, with wine, around 450,000 guaraníes.