Carl Sandburg may have famously labeled Chicago “Hog Butcher for the World,” but Bad Hunter, in a former meatpacking district, celebrates the city’s culinary history by highlighting plants.

“The Midwest is known for farming,” said Dan Snowden, the executive chef. “And we’re smack dab in the middle of it.” A transplant from Santa Monica, Calif., he was unexpectedly wowed by Chicago’s farmers’ markets and wanted to showcase the bounty of locally grown vegetables — without, he said, being “too dogmatic about it.”

Most dishes at Bad Hunter, which opened in October, are not vegetarian. Beet tartare, served atop a snappy flaxseed cracker, includes white anchovy. It mimics the more classic steak version in its ruby hue and umami notes, and retains its earthy yet refreshing appeal. The only other obvious riff on a meaty classic is the veggie burger, on the menu despite the often three-hour line for the celebrated burger at Au Cheval next door. “It’s a bit cheeky,” Mr. Snowden said. “Just like the name,” he added, referring to Bad Hunter.