So over the past 3 or so weeks medicalmike and I did a t45 swap into his 95 4.6LSame guy from this and this thread.Here is the full album on imgur.We used a t45 from a 99 mustang and we were able to get supercoupe pedals.The supercoupe pedals are really nice because there are dimples on the firewall for where to drill your holes. You don't need to make a template and cross your fingers, half the work was done for you.There is a hole at the top to put a bolt but it doesn't have threads. The bolt for the brake pedal cage and the nuts for the clutch pedal cage were all metric 8x1.25 so I just took a tap and ran it through the hole to create new threads and put a bolt in it to support the clutch pedal cage.It wasn't too hard to remove the entire dashboard and I found it much easier to put in the clutch pedal, drill the hole in the firewall and cut the hole in the floor pan.After the dashboard was removed, the hole in the firewall drilled and the pedals mocked into place, we used this opportunity to cut and grind the pedals to accept the Mustang Bullit pedal covers.medicalmike decided to opt for the McLeod universal Hydraulic Throwout Bearing instead of mocking up a bracket for an s10 slave cylinder and I must say I like the whole set up, there's enough fabrication involved in this swap so I was very glad to have one less thing to fabricate.A couple things to note, we found part numbers listed on this forum to fit onto the thunderbird super coupe hydraulic master cylinder and give it a -AN fitting for the hydraulic lines.The fittings we ordered based on those numbers were a -3AN fitting and -3AN braided line and the McLeod hydraulic throwout bearing comes with a -4AN line, we bought an adapter to connect the two and it works fine.We ran the hydraulic line through the clutch cable hole in the t45 and then used the clutch cable & fork cover, to hide the lines and keep crud away from the clutch & pressure plate. This cover will not fit against the stock catalytic converter without modification. I ended up cutting a good chunk out of this aluminum cover using a cut off wheel and if the heat from the cat proves to be a problem for the hydraulic line I can easily go back and stuff or line the cover with some sort of heat wrap.Also, the universal throwout bearing has to be adjusted so the clearance between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate is between 0.100" and 0.125"The instructions advise you to figure out this adjustment by putting the bellhousing on the engine and measuring from the bellhousing to the pressure plate, and then measure from the transmission face to the throwout bearing and subtracting the two to find your current clearance and adjust from there. That's not exactly possible with the t45 since you can't really remove the bellhousing so we had to do some trial and error.In the end you'll need to reduce the clearance by about an inch. The supplied sleeve is 0.700" and the adjustable sleeve can come out another 0.700" we ended up getting a set of feeler gauges inside the access hole (I used 0.018, 0.019, 0.020, 0.021, and 0.022 for a grand total of 0.100, aka the suggested clearance) to get an idea how close we were and if we got it.Yes this means you'll have to put the transmission up at least 2x but it's not so bad, really.We notched the transmission crossmember all the way to the end and we cut a hole in the side to fit the large transmission mount nut. To anyone doing this swap I want to suggest when you notch the crossmember that you don't leave the notch rounded at the end, the bolt in the mount has a square shaft at the very top where it meets the crossmember and we are right against it. I think we might have to take the crossmember off again and clean up this notch but for right now we're leaving it alone.There's another thread in this forum that shows someone taking the hole from the automatic shifter plate and extending it forward to clear the manual transmission shifter. We did not do this because we felt we could use a 4 inch hole saw and drill a hole for the manual transmission shifter and still reuse the automatic shifter plate to reduce road noise. This allowed us to do something else slightly different. This swap has always been a good guide, but we were not keen on building an extension housing for the t45.So we were initially going to follow this guide and attach a dummy shifter right behind the transmission.But we then realized that the automatic shifter plate was the perfect spot to mount the dummy shifter and it won't move and we can just fabricate one bracket to connect the dummy shifter to the real shifter.We turned the dummy shifter around so we can utilize as much flat space as possible on the automatic transmission mount and the dummy shifter sticks out pretty much dead center on the automatic shifter plate.I cut a hole in the automatic shifter plate, trimmed it to fit the dummy shifter from underneath, drilled 4 holes and then I was able to use the original 4 bolts that came from the shifter, with 4 nuts (metric size 8 x 1.25) and used RTV silicone to seal it up real nice.When we drilled the 4 inch hole for the shifter we ended up losing the 2 front holes for the automatic shifter plate but we just drilled 2 new holes and bolted the plate down using the same clips they were originally bolted down with.We also had to notch the 4 inch hole just a little bit in the front of the shifter because the stopper screw would hit the floor pan and we didn't want any trouble if we had to do the clutch again in the future.When the dummy shifter was mounted on that automatic shifter plate and then installed in the car we found that the nub on the dummy shifter was hitting the driveshaft so we just cut it off with a cut-off wheel.We put the dashboard back in but left the center console out because we were frequently putting it in and taking it back out just to test fit where the shifter would come out and how comfortable it would be.Once we had the transmission in and the dummy shifter mounted we tackled the rod, or bar, or whatever you want to call it to connect the dummy to the shifter.Once we had it in place we realized we really did not like the position of the stock shifter stick.The short shifter we used on the transmission came with some bolts and a small shifter stick that was supposed to bolt onto it's own little bracket. The holes in this shifter stick were too far apart for us to bolt directly to the dummy shifter but that's ok because that would have been way too short.In the end we just took some of that left over 1 inch angled steel bar and cut a small 4 inch piece and drilled 4 holes in it, to mount it to the dummy shifter and then mount the small aftermarket shifter stick to the bar.We then used a shifter boot from an 06 mustang that we bought online and we didn't have to attach it to the center console at all. We just threw it on top, it sat on top of the shifter bar that we fabricated and when the center console was installed it came up pretty close to the console that it looks like it is attached. It also doesn't move too much when you shift so you can't tell that the boot is not attached.Some problems I want to note, for anyone else attempting this swap.You can use the crown vic driveshaft, but you will need a 31 spline slip yoke and you will need to re-use the flange yoke from the cougar (this is the other end of the driveshaft that connects to the rear end), the bolt pattern for the flange yoke is not the same on the cougar and crown vic.Also, you will probably need conversion joints. I think they are 1330-1350 but I can't be sure. We ended up re-using the original spiders with new end caps from a new u-joint kit. Not my preferred method but the car is driveable.The car was equipped with a stock exhaust. However medicalmike had a 2.5 inch true dual exhaust on his 94 3.8l cougar and wanted to use that on this car. The exhaust kit was designed as a cat-back exhaust for the v8 and he bought it with cats and downtubes for the v6. The downtubes and cats would not fit on the v8, the angle was not right. But we were able to cut the stock exhaust on the v8 and attach this true dual exhaust as a cat-back exhaust. The stock exhaust is 2 inches so you'll need the right adapter or you will have exhaust leaks like we did.After starting the car, we immediately got the flashing O/D light. We pulled the bulb, problem solved.We did not get any airbag light.We did get a check engine light but then it went away. We don't know if it came on because of the exhaust leak or if it needs a tune, when we figure it out we'll let you know.We did not try to rev the car to 4k rpms or shift the car at 4k rpms. We need to break in the clutch so we'll let you know what happens after the clutch is broken in.The speedometer, we pulled out the speedo gear from the automatic and were going to swap it into the manual but it wouldn't fit, the auto gear was longer than the manual gear.When I looked closely, they were both the same diameter and had the same number of teeth so if I swapped them it would make no difference.The speedometer is off, it reads about 76 when cruising about 65, hopefully we can take care of that with a tune.So that's that. It took us somewhere around 3 weeks to a month in our spare time but it is driving.Add another 5 speed mn12 to your list.