Among Iranian youths, junub carries much more meaning than just its literal definition of south. It has long been synonymous with an adventurous trip, a breath of fresh air and a sense of freedom. When winter cold comes to most of Iran, in its southern provinces young Iranians scatter around the remote beaches and mountains of the Persian Gulf islands.

Here, they enjoy the company of other open-minded Iranians and ­­­­­relative safety to pursue their personal freedoms, engage in creative activities, exchange ideas and form long-term connections that last far beyond the beaches of Hormoz or Hengam. The Iranian travellers discover their country, reconnect with nature and bind closely with the local communities, which thrive from the constant influx of tourists and travellers.

Iranian travellers Sina and Ershad teach local kids how to play hang drum. Sina and Ershad are both local Instagram stars having over 120,000 followers combined.

Odin and Mahsa.

Odin has a master’s degree in philosophy, and names himself after one of the gods of Norse mythology. Mahsa hitchhiked alone around Iran – she plays the hang drum, and is on her way to a three-day meditation retreat in Hengam island.

In recent years, however, the island of Hormoz has become so infamous for its freedom-seeking youths that it drew the attention of the Islamic Revolutionary Guard corps that keep a close eye on the visitors and regularly clear out campers from the most popular beaches. Despite the future being uncertain, the Iranian south keeps on strengthening its importance as a unique social hub for the country’s young generation.

Hormoz

Iranian hippies on Hormoz island watch the sunset. Niloofar (centre) is a primary school teacher in Shiraz.

Hormoz island is located in the Persian Gulf, about 20km (12 miles) south east of Bandar Abbas and boasts a population of nearly 6,000. In the 16th and 17th centuries, Hormoz together with Hengam, Larak and Qeshm islands were under Portuguese occupation. Remains of Portuguese fortresses can still be seen in each of these islands. During the last 10 years, tourism has been sharply on the rise in Hormoz. The island has become popular mostly for its natural sights as well as its resident’s relaxed and open-minded attitude.

A young Iranian man plays guitar after sunset, on Hormoz.

Odin plays daf (a traditional Persian drum) near Rainbow valley - a popular sightseeing spot.

The locals have been benefiting from it immensely. Nearly every family in Hormoz now offer rooms for rent and home-cooked meals, while men drive rickshaws and motorcycles transporting tourists around the island. Many Iranians from different cities have relocated to Hormoz, opening cosy coffee shops, restaurants and hostels contributing to making Hormoz popular among the alternative-minded Iranian youths, many of whom use Hormoz village as their base in the south, where they come to shop for camping supplies, shower and mingle with other travellers.

Amir Ali and Muhammad.

Amir Ali plays darbuka when busking with friends, and makes and sells handmade jewellery. Muhammad rent a house in Hormoz town with his friends and they all sustain themselves by busking and selling handmade items.

Masi gets a new dreadlock on Hormoz island.

Chips and Erfan.

When not dancing on the beaches of Persian Gulf islands, Chips lives with his single mother in Bandar Abbas. He has become known among local authorities for camping in Hormoz for months at a time and refusing to leave. Erfan is into the underground party scene. He loves psytrance, travels with his girlfriend and carries a foldable chair everywhere he goes.

Hengam

Che hitchhikes from Hengam village back to the camp, on Hengam island.

Hengam is located just 2km off the south coast of Qeshm island. During the Iran – Iraq war in the 1980s, the majority of the islanders were driven away to mainland Iran because the island had become a military base with thousands of Iranian troops stationed there.

The village of Qeel on Hegam island.

Iranian couple relaxing, and a woman dances in an abandoned Persian garden that is now used as a camping spot.

The United Arab Emirates later accepted a lot of people from Hengam island as refugees, and most of them never came back. As a result, the island features many abandoned buildings and gardens. The village of Qeel is now inhabited by only two families and the old Hengam village has a population of just a few people. Those who did come back after the war settled in New Hengam village where about 500 people now live.



Larak

The ruins of the old Larak village, on Larak island.

Larak island is located approximately 30km south of Bandar Abbas and is mostly known for being the home to the Islamic Revolutionary Guard Corps Navy base. A third of the island is said to be off limits to civilians. Larak has a local population of around 200 people whose main source of income is fishing and selling their catch in Oman’s islands and beaches where it is more profitable. Until only two years ago there were no regular boat services to the island. Tourism is still almost unheard of in Larak, however recently the more adventurous backpackers have been discovering it as an alternative to the relatively overcrowded Hormoz island.

Che, on Larak island. An Afghan worker travels on a small boat from Larak island to Qeshm island.





