Merry Christmas!

Now that the day is almost over and everyone is winding down - families have gone home, presents have been opened and played with (or in my case, consumed) - it’s time to sit back and enjoy the Christmas beer to end all Christmas beers.

The History

Samichlaus Helles (as well as the original) was originally brewed by the now-extinct Swiss Hürlimann Brewery. The eponymous Albert Hürlimann was a pioneer in the study and development of yeast. After 20 or so years of experimentation, Hürlimann was able to cultivate yeast hardy enough to produce a monstrous beer without being killed off by the alcohol. Unfortunately, the Hürlimann Brewery ceased production in 1997.

Brauerei Schloss Eggenberg, out of Vorchdorf, Austria picked up the ball in 2000 and has been running with it ever since. The Eggenberg Castle - where the brewery is located - dates back to the 9th century C.E., and has been producing beer in some capacity since at least 1400. [I love reviewing these European beers, so much history!] The current commercial operation began in 1861. Aside from taking over responsibility for the World’s Strongest Lager, Schloss Eggenberg brews a handful of other old-world-class beers.

If the brewery(s) history isn’t enough for you, the beer itself has quite the interesting story.

Introduced in 1979 at 14%+ alcohol-by-volume, Samichlaus was the strongest beer in the world until the late-90’s advent of US craft “extreme” brewing. It is still the strongest lager. Helles, a lighter version of the original Samichlaus, was last produced by Hürlimann in 1986, and sat dormant until 2007, when Eggenberg bottled it once more. Both are brewed once a year - on December 6th - and lagered for 10 months before bottling, making them a rare and coveted find. Why December 6th? Well, it’s the Feast of St. Nicholas, basically the original Christmas.

The bottle in front of me tonight is from the new-first-time 2007 batch (brewed December 6, 2006). With 10 months in the barrel, and 2 more years in the bottle, this should be quite the experience…

The Style

Samichlaus Helles is technically a Doppelbock, a stronger version of the German Bock. I say ‘technically’, because as far as doppelbock’s go, Samichlaus is far and away the strongest. If Sam Adams hadn’t already stolen the name, this could just as easily be dubbed a Tripelbock. Bocks are lagers by definition, but generally much darker and stronger than their far more popular pale brethren. This is a result of a bigger malt content and a longer period of cold-storage (”lagering”). The original ‘meal in a glass’, doppelbocks are full-bodied, dark, higher in alcohol, and usually on the sweet side.

The Tasting

Pours a crisp clear caramel. There’s barely any head, though the beer is quite fizzy.

Malty and raisiny on the nose, sweet syrup aroma.

Taste is candi sweet. As much raisin on the tongue as in the nose. Other dried fruits as well, dates and apricot. Some burnt molasses. Oak notes, as well as a vanilla complexity as it unfolds. Very, very low hop character. Almost non-existant, but it does make itself known as a slight pepper at the back of the throat.

Alcohol is finely hidden. appearing just briefly as a warmth in the finish. And finally theres a bit of an oaky / grassy whiskey aftertaste. Overall the flavor feels somewhere between brandy & barleywine.

Full-bodied, but lighter than you’d expect from a beer of this strength. Far from syrupy, but far from ‘clean’. It’s a bit more drinkable than it probably should be, considering its strength.

The Verdict

Having sat on this bottle for close to a full year, I certainly had my expectations. Happily, they were more than met. Helles is as much an experience as a beer, one that takes a good part of the evening to really appreciate (and not just because of its alcohol content). It’s not an easy find, but well worth the effort.

Certainly a fantastic end to a great holiday.

And now I can join the Facebook group.

9.5/10

Incedentally, I picked up a bottle of the original version a few days ago. Look for a review of that on Christmas Day 2010 (provided I’m still maintaining this website).