Everyone knows Jaquet Droz makes classical watches, the kind of timepieces that would suit the delicate wrists of an 18th century dandy. Enamel dials, refined gold cases, you know where you are with the Swiss watchmaker. Until that is you get a glimpse of the Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic.

Earlier in the year we were actually able to review one of the earlier Skelet-One models ourselves. You can read our impressions here but needless to say we were impressed. On one hand it’s a haute horological accomplishment; on the other it still felt like Jaquet Droz were very much at home. The newest edition is not that. We’ve been seeing ceramic more and more, that’s true, but we never thought we’d see a watchmaker as traditional as Jaquet Droz embrace the high-tech material. This isn’t the first time they’ve used the material on the Skelet-One, but the novelty never wears off, particularly in this leaner, stealthier look.

In the same way as the previous ceramic skeleton, the matte black shows off the classical curves of the watch. The case may be the same 41.5mm shape as the standard Grande Second, but it’s almost unrecognisable. It helps of course that everything inside the case has been cut away to nearly nothing, with even the titular Grande Seconde dial made from transparent sapphire.

The movement itself has been given an aesthetic overhaul to suit its new setting, specifically a black NAC coating that matches the ceramic. Whereas before they used plenty of rose gold to add a lighter, warmer touch to the movement, here the only point of contrast are the blued steel screws against the otherwise monochromatic movement, save of course for white gold indexes.

Finished with a blue canvas strap – another unusual touch for Jaquet Droz – this is quite possibly the coolest watch they’ve ever built. That’s not to diminish their other work of course, it’s just… well, look at it. This is pure contemporary flair from the same watchmaker that brought us bird automatons. It may be unexpected, but it’s more than welcome.

Price & Specs:

Model name: Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet-One Ceramic

Ref: J003525541 Dial/Case: 41.5mm diameter x 12.48mm height, sapphire dial hour circle in stainless steel, white gold indexes blued steel dial fixing screws, black ceramic case Movement: Jaquet Droz 2663 SQ, self-winding skeleton mechanical movement, black treatment, silicon balance spring and pallet horns, double barrel, 18-karat white gold oscillating weight

Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) Power reserve: 68 hours Water resistance: 3 bar (30 meters) Price & availability: USD $7,900, limited edition of 50 pieces



Find out more on Jaquet Droz’s website.