Despite this, my lovely personal assistant, Ningsih, smiles her beatific smile and says that no, her friends and family don’t suffer from work-related stress. Road rage, maybe? She doesn’t know the term but shakes her head when I explain. Most Balinese don't even harbour anger about the terrorist bombings of 2002 and 2005, viewing them as the inevitable bad karma that followed so many years of good karma. Ningsih does admit it can get pretty stressful keeping track of all the rituals and ceremonies that take place in her family temple (every household has its own temple) and the village temple, not to mention all the others scattered across the island: in caves, in rice fields, up mountains and on water. Whoever originally awarded Bali the epithet “Island of the Thousand Temples” clearly couldn’t count: there must be hundreds of thousands of them, each one more stunning, more beautifully elaborate, than the last.