I’m not much of a photographer, nor would I feel very good about spending the 5–7 thousand dollars required to authentically replicate the camera/lens setup of a professional.

I do however, occasionally have the need for portraits of myself.

I don’t know if you’ve heard, but exponentially increasing mobile computing performance has over the past few years turned the thing you used to call people with — into one of the most versatile and powerful tools for any and all scrappy would-be photographer. As reality has it, software is eating the world, and photography is one of the industries currently under fire. Many of the functions which used to require special hardware (scanners, lenses, filters and so on) can now be replicated using post processing methods on a fairly inexpensive computer such as the one we all carry around in our pockets.

What you’ll need

I’ll level with you, there is one catch: You will need a light source. The iPhone is a great computer and all, but it isn’t much of a light source. Until the A.I. overlords are able to replicate light, there is just no way around this. Much like the camera and lens, naturally one would here also prefer the crème de la crème, ala a Kino Flo 4Bank, but you can settle for something as simple as this kit which includes a soft box, stand and carrying case for $60 w/free Amazon Prime shipping. Sadly, without such a light, your photos won’t come out with the neutral colour warmth that’s needed for this exercise.

Camera wise, basically any modern camera will do (I used a 2013 Sony NEX 5R with the kit lens), but a newer iPhone (6 and later) will do just fine. If you’re shooting by yourself using a digital camera, an adjustable tripod or gorillapod comes in handy. If you’re shooting by yourself using a smartphone, a gorillapod like this one for $19 will work great.

So, to sum up, an ideal low-cost setup looks something like:

A modern digital camera or newer iPhone (6 and later)

A fluorescent continuous light source

A tripod / gorillapod

The iOS apps Facetune, Enlight and VSCO

Let’s get started!

Setting up

Find a wall with a color that complements the colors of what you are wearing (ideally white). Ideally too, set up your camera and light a few feet away from the wall so that your shadow isn’t visible on the wall. That would be bad.

The light should be set up so that it hits you head-on from above your head, pointing down, at a 4–5 feet distance. That’s 1.2–1.5m for those of you working in a sane measurement system.

The camera should be set up directly below the light. Set it up so that it faces you head on, at slightly above shoulder height. Do a few test shots to make sure you’re on point and that there is enough padding around your silhouette to be able to crop out a nice, clean, rectangular portrait.

If you’re doing this by yourself, as I was, a way to get the light and camera set up at the correct height is to put them both on a table in front of you.

Taking the photo(s)

Now onto the photo itself. If you’re like me, unfortunately not blessed with the charming good looks of a young Robert Redford, you’re going to need to shoot quite a few frames in order to find one you like.

Instead of going back and fourth to check after each time your camera fires, I suggest spending 10 minutes shooting continuously. Worst case you’ll have a few extra good ones. In general, you want to try to not blink, not move, and ensure that your face is in focus. Leaning slightly forward throws a slight shade onto your lower torso and legs, which helps your face stand out more.

I shot 210 frames. Yes. 210 frames. That is how much effort is needed to make me look presentable. And even then, sigh.