Closely related to the stout, the porter is a style of beer that is centered on the character of its malt. Typically this character is not quite as heavy as the stout, with nutty or caramel flavors present alongside the standard chocolate and coffee. This makes the idea of an ‘imperial porter’ sound a bit contradictory, but Ballast Point manages to pull it off expertly, with a beer that integrates the subtle notes of the porter style along with the weight the ‘imperial’ label implies.

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‘VICTORY AT SEA’ – BALLAST POINT – Imperial Porter brewed with vanilla beans and coffee beans – 10.00% ABV (Eye Choir’s Choice)

Appearance: Poured an inky, near-black brown with a one-finger, cafe-latte head. Even holding the beer up to the light displays no carbonation or sediment, and the pour displays a perceptible viscosity. 4.5/5

Smell: Intense coffee aroma which has a very stark, almost woody quality that sits with a touch of vanilla as well as a distinct background of smokiness. Strains of dark chocolate and heavily roasted, almost burnt caramel malt peer out from behind this, along with a strain of austere raspberry and cassis. Very striking and powerful without coming across as too dessert-like, with a unique, decisive balance. 4.5/5

Taste: Moderate tartness helps embolden the ferocity of the roasty malt, as well as providing more depth to the dark fruit character, which has lean acidity like a young Pinot Noir, with sour cherry integrating with the rich baking chocolate. A mild sweetness appears, reintroducing the rich fudge and aromatic coffee notes while also evolving a mild boozy liqueur flavor. Finally, mild to moderate bitterness brings out the distinct burnt-raisin smoke and lean coffee bean flavor as well as some lingering earthy hops and vanilla. Great, inventive interpretations of common flavors that still form a balanced, unified aesthetic. 5/5

Mouthfeel: Medium body with a syrupiness similar to chocolate milk in its mouthfeel. A moderate carbonation lightens this slightly but also adds a fuller, foaminess as well as a longer finish, where it touches base with a smooth but concentrated alcoholic heat. Good complement to the dynamics between the malt, fruit, and smoke notes. 4.5/5

Overall: Definitely at the ‘stout’ end of the porter scale, with a big burst of flavors, though they are integrated effortlessly into a refined whole. Takes on a whole other dimension as each aspect forms a really dynamic (but necessarily slow to taste) drink. 4.5/5

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‘LUCKY 7’ – EVOLUTION – Robust Porter – 5.80% ABV

Appearance: Poured a very dark, rusty brown with amber highlights and a one-finger, moderate tan head. The dark body makes any carbonation or sedimentation impossible to see. 4/5

Smell: Smooth malt aroma featuring a predominant dark chocolate ice cream note with lightly smoky coffee and even touches of nuts and dark fruit such as cassis. This is balanced by a minimal presence of a spicy, almost woodsy hop character that provides a little texture. Subtle and somewhat unique, though mild and not totally off the beaten path. 4/5

Taste: Restrained mild to moderate sweetness pulls out strains of iced coffee and charred caramel, while a mild tartness helps convert the subtle fruit flavor into a cool, burnt raisiny character. Finish has a nice mild to moderate bitterness that separates the smoky char from the malt and helps concentrate it with a slightly acrid leafy hop note. Interesting dynamics, though a little on the simple side. 3.5/5

Mouthfeel: Medium to light body, with a nice crisp carbonation that along with the relatively dry character, gives a certain freshness to the biting roast. Otherwise relatively smooth, with a virtually non-existent alcoholic heat. 3.5/5

Overall: A lean example of a porter, with a good balance of flavors that are quite pleasing, though they are solidly a part of the standard porter model. 3.5/5

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ROBUST PORTER – SMUTTYNOSE – Robust Porter – 6.20% ABV

Appearance: Poured a dark reddish-brown with brass highlights and a one finger, light burgundy head. The body is too dark to see any carbonation or sediment. 4/5

Smell: Very strong roasted malt aroma which is primarily a hearty cocoa with notes of toasted peanuts as well as some iced coffee. There is a mild impression of figs as well as a slight spicy cinnamon character that helps attenuate the malt richness. On the simple side, but nicely balanced and very inviting. 3.5/5

Taste: Mild to moderate sweetness really highlights the creamy nutty flavor as well as some notes of brown sugar alongside the chocolate. A mild, almost lactic tartness goes along with faint raspberry, though a mild to moderate bitterness sweeps in, bringing a dry, slightly burnt coffee flavor that shows perhaps a hint of woodsy, piquant vanilla. Surprisingly bold finish, with a good sense as to when to keep flavors subtle and when to bring them out. 4/5

Mouthfeel: Medium body, with a smooth but noticeable carbonation that helps the finish stand strong and dry. A little bit of alcoholic heat is noticeable there as well, though with the overall smooth, somewhat creamy body, it isn’t harsh. 4/5

Overall: A stable, firm porter with a fairly interesting malt profile that uses a spicy aesthetic instead of the standard dark fruit to provide a counterbalance. Not superficially unique, but definitely anything but boring. 4/5

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‘SWEET BABY JESUS’ – DUCLAW – Robust Porter brewed with chocolate and peanut butter – 6.50% ABV

Appearance: Poured a very dark orange-brown with a one finger, medium tan head. The body is only slightly transparent and no significant carbonation or sediment can be seen. 3.5/5

Smell: Very intense roasted peanut aroma that features undertones of milk chocolate and vague mocha latte aromas. While this may be in your face, it doesn’t smell artificial or cloying, with the peanuts having a distinct austere quality that makes the whole aesthetic work as intended. On the simple side, but pleasing and surprisingly balanced. 4/5

Taste: A mild to moderate, almost fresh tartness hits the palate first, which really brings up the roasted coffee beans as well as a very mild charred note. Eventually a mere mild sweetness crawls in, where the nutty flavors make their appearance, which is a bit more subdued than in the nose. Finally, in the finish, a mild to moderate bitterness brings out an fresh, earthy, petrichor flavor that contrasts perfectly with the peanut. Not as intense as the nose, but brings a bit more depth, though the most impressive aspect of the beer is its ability to make such a unique idea work so effortlessly. 4.5/5

Mouthfeel: Medium to light body, made even lighter by a solid carbonation and a relatively watery mouthfeel. Could stand to be more creamy, though the starkness of the mouthfeel helps separate it (as intended) from the standard ‘peanut butter’ paradigm. No alcoholic heat to speak of. A little thin for a porter, but very appropriate for the direction the flavors took. 4/5

Overall: A beer which has an excellent integration of added ingredients that subverts expectations in order to avoid being gimmicky. Any lack of ‘thickness’ is made up by good drinkability, making it great for anyone desiring a more sessionable roast-malt drink. 4/5