Fossil Rock doesn’t suck. People always say it sucks, but ignore them. Often, in the climbing gym on Evergreen’s campus, the subject of outdoor climbing comes up. People talk about exit 38, Index Town Walls, and the basalt cliffs out near Vantage, but most folks don’t bring up Fossil Rock, the closest bolted sport climbing area to town. When I broach the subject, responses tend to be predictable.

“That place is terrible,” someone will scoff. “All the holds are artificial. Just bolted on rocks.” Usually someone else will talk about how chossy the rock is.

Illustration 1: The author leading a steep, knobby route at Fossil Rock.

“It’s just falling apart,” they’ll say. “It’s not even worth going out there.” People who talk about Fossil that way generally have at least one thing in common: they have never been climbing at Fossil Rock.

To be fair, Fossil is pretty strange. It’s a collection of vertical and overhanging cliffs jutting from the top of a hill just off forest road 1190 in the Bald Hills area near Yelm. And it’s a peculiar form of rock called welded-tuffa; Essentially a flow of mud and ash from an ancient volcanic eruption that careened down the valley from Mount Rainier, sweeping up all kinds of river rocks and random chunks of stone as it went. Eventually it settled and solidified. Then, at some point millions of years ago, geological forces thrust it up from the earth where it split and fractured, creating massive boulders and sheer cliffs.

The rocks swept up by the torrent remain suspended in the softer material that was the mud flow, and most of the holds climbers use at Fossil are actually those harder chunks of stone, sticking out of the wall almost like artificial holds in a gym. It makes the area a great place for people experienced with gym climbing who want to transfer their skills to a natural environment.

It’s true that a couple routes at Fossil bear the dubious distinction of a few bolted on holds – leftovers from no-holds-barred development during the 1980’s – but for the most part, rumors that the crag is little more than an outdoor gym are unfounded. In the guide book Rock Climbing Washington, author Jeff Smoot notes that “…only a few routes at Fossil Rock have artificial holds.” People who insist otherwise are generally just nonsense-talking schmucks.

Claims that the rock is chossy are equally bogus. I’ve climbed at Fossil a couple of dozen times, and have never broken off anything larger than a standard marble, though some of the holds look as though you should be able to pull them off the wall easily, which can be kind of spooky. That said, if you’re looking for big, clean walls of sparkling granite, then give Fossil a miss and head for the north Cascades. However, if you want a fun sport climbing area that won’t take all day to reach, look no further.

Fossil Rock climbing isn’t all peaches and cream. People complain about the moss, and in some cases rightfully so. On some of the area’s less than vertical routes there’s almost as much moss as exposed rock, but they’re still plenty climbable and good fun. And the vertical and overhanging routes are as clean and solid as any in the state. But yeah, moss is an issue. As are ticks. Be sure to check yourself and your dogs, especially during spring and summer. Poison oak is another worry, so stay on the trails and watch your step. I always wear long pants at fossil, which is to protect me from poison oak and not because I’m ashamed of my pasty little chicken legs.

The other big problem is access. In the old days (so I’ve heard) it was possible to drive to within a five minute hike of the cliffs, but now it’s more like a three mile walk through commercial forest land. I guess it’s relatively scenic as clear cuts go, but that’s not really saying much. On the other hand, the top of Fossil, at just over 1000 feet, offers sweeping views over Olympia, Puget Sound, and the Olympic Mountains, and most of the walls feature breathtaking views of Mount Rainier to the East. In my opinion, those little benefits make the walk worth it.

And it is a walk, not a hike. Just dusty logging roads that come alive with garter snakes on hot August days. Be warned, it’s easy to fail to find Fossil. The first time I went, we walked an extra five or six miles looking for the place. When we did eventually find it, another couple of climbers were there already and seemed impressed that we’d managed to locate it at all. Apparently it took them three tries before they got to the place. It’s kind of tucked away.

To get there, take highway 507 to Bald Hill road, and head east. Look alive! Bald Hill road takes some funny turns, and doesn’t always go straight through intersections. Pay attention to signage and stay with it. A few miles past the fire station you’ll come to a wide gravelly pull out and the intersection with forest road 1000. I’ve seen the gate open in the morning, but it’s always been closed by the time I’ve walked out, so if it’s open it’s probably still best to walk, or you risk getting your car locked in. Follow FR 1000 about two miles to spur road 1190 and take a right up the hill and through another gate. The road climbs for a bit more than a mile to a clearing (formerly the parking lot) where it seems to dead end, but a steep narrow trail through dense forest quickly climbs up to gain the base of the walls. From their you’re largely on your own. Rock Climbing Washington covers a handful of routes, and includes most of the best ones, but there’s plenty to explore.

One of the best things about Fossil is the lack of crowds, caused by a combination of the long approach and the persistent rumors of it’s alleged suckiness. In all the times I’ve been there I’ve never seen more than two other parties climbing, even on sunny weekend days in mid summer. So go! Don’t expect world class climbing, but keep an open mind and you’re bound to have fun. Enjoy the view.

Illustration 2: The Author taking in views of Rainier from the top of the crag.