Original Post

Jay Knower · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 5,296 Oct 18, 2006 · Plymouth, NH encoding='utf-8' ? Love, Life, and Danger

By Jason Huston



"Pad People." The somewhat derogatory comment came as the three of us hiked up the East Bluff Trail. Steve and I carried a crash pads along with our packs, so perhaps the comment was appropriate on the surface, but I just wanted to say, "shut it, you have no clue what's going down tonight." Instead, I replied with a "yep," returned to the demons in my mind, and hiked past the old trad dudes who were calling it a day.



To be honest, I hated the climbing at Devil's Lake when I lived in Wisconsin. I maybe climbed on a rope five days in the two years when I lived there. The routes were difficult, devious, slick, and everything hard was a top rope. "Christ," I thought, "even the damn guidebook has a top roper on the cover." Therefore, I spent most of my time in the gym or bouldering. I finally had my eyes opened a bit before I left. I belayed Nate as he led Callipigeonous Direct, and I dusted off Sometimes Direct, but I left Wisconsin shortly thereafter. "Good riddance," I thought.



Of course I ended up back in Wisconsin. I was there for the month of June (2006). Worried that I would likely end up in terrible shape if I didn't climb for the next month, I decided to head up to the Lake and at least try to get a workout. The day, of course, ended up better than I expected and two days later I found myself leading The End. Granted, not a terribly hard route, but it really opened my eyes and set a small fire inside me to lead a few more routes at the Lake. A few harder, but better protected routes fell quickly for me, and I was feeling pretty proud of myself. Walking out after leading Callipigeonous Direct, I saw Jay rappelling down All the Way, checking out the gear. "Wow", I thought, "I can't even do the moves on that thing, let alone contemplate leading that thing on a few small cams and rps." However, the line is obvious; it is the first route one sees upon arriving at the East Bluff, and despite my miserable failures to even get off the ground on previous attempts I was tired of hanging my head and quickly scooting past it whenever I arrived at the East Bluff.



I realized The Lake was the place for me when, at the end of June, I was on the phone with Ian and tried to weasel my way out of a trip up the Diamond in order to finish All the Way. I had one fallen it, at a relatively safe spot, and all I wanted to do was finish it. I ended up leaving for the Diamond and spending the next two months traveling around the west spending time in Rifle, Maple, and Squamish. Yet, The Lake was never far from my thoughts. Many nights in Rifle were spent with Jay talking about The Lake, boring everyone else, as we talked about everything from favorite solos to routes that had yet to be led. Of course at the top of the yet-to-be-led list was Acid Rock. An excellent route and probably the most often attempted 5.12 at The Lake. The protection, however, was less than ideal.



It wasn't until a long, lonely drive from Maple to Rifle that I began to think that maybe I could lead Acid Rock. It hardy mattered to my day-dreaming mind that I had never even climbed the route clean on top rope. I was in full day-dreaming mode, picturing myself doing the juggy finish on the sharp end. Of course, 2,000 miles west of the Lake was probably the closest I would ever come to leading the route, I figured, as I snapped back to reality and returned to watching where I drove.



September soon came and I was back at The Lake. I dispensed with All the Way quickly and rapped down Acid Rock on a damp morning when no one was around. The protection was worse than I imagined. The horizontals after the Cruton Check Valve accepted nothing of any quality, nothing would go in above the post-block crux, and my hopes of leading the route were all but gone. The only positive was that I found I could get in a mediocre #3 hb offset nut that would protect the CCV move. I gave myself, at best, a 10% chance of leading it. And then I tried it on top rope. I couldn't even finish the route. I couldn't get through the crux after the block and the move to the block felt amazingly desperate. No way, absolutely not.



However, I would probably never get up anything if I gave up after fewer than twenty tries, and two days later I was top-rope soloing the route, trying to figure out the moves. Finally, on my fourth try, I climbed the route without falling after figuring out some new beta to make the move to the block smooth and in control; both something to celebrate about and something to stress about. Now I knew that I could climb the route, however, little had changed with the protection and I knew a fall would have "I-don't-want-to-think-about-it" consequences.



At this point, the climb really began to consume my mind. Yet, I gave myself a 50% chance of even getting on the sharp end; I could just as easily walk away and be content. Regardless, I decided I would put off the decision about committing to the route until after I put in at least one more day of top roping. I wanted this route completely wired before I even thought about leading it.



I don't remember what night it was, but one of the next nights I woke up at 4 AM thinking about the lead, and despite my best efforts I could not put it out of my mind. I laid there, palms sweating for over an hour, until exhaustion finally put me back to sleep for a couple more hours. Day time was not much better. Despite trying to "just not think about it," Acid Rock was constantly on my mind and I know I was twitchy and a bit difficult for my girlfriend to be around.



After a day of rest I was back on the route. It was a beautiful Sunday evening and I gave it a whirl on top rope. Everything was smooth except for the move to the block. I couldn't do my beta and ended up falling towards the block, barely sticking it. Not how I wanted it to go, yet it made me feel like if I blew the move, I stood a chance of snagging the block as I was falling off. I tried it again and everything went as planned. After a lap on Upper D, I came back and did two laps on Acid Rock without a break. I had the route wired and I knew it; once again a bit of a blessing and a curse.



If I was twitchy before, I was far worse now. It was harder to fall asleep and it was impossible to keep the route off of my mind, and I still hadn't decided how to protect the move to the block. I had decided on placing a hook and having it tensioned to the ground, yet I doubted this would hold a fall, or even stay on as I climbed past, and I wanted another piece of gear there, which left me with two options; a #0 hb offset or a beak. I didn't really want to place a beak; it would require pre-placing it with a hammer, something I wasn't psyched about and wasn't guaranteed to hold a fall. Yet, I didn't think the offset had any chance of holding a fall; almost no point in placing it at all. Much of the next day was spent contemplating this decision. Although, it is fully within Devil's Lake ethics to place a pin on an unled route, I didn't know if I wanted to do it. So on top of the stress of leading the route I spent a lot of time contemplating how I was going to protect the route. I think I even went as far as talking with my girlfriend's mother about how I was going to protect it. "Good person to ask, Jason."



Until now, no one other than a few non-climbers knew that I was even thinking about leading Acid Rock. However, I needed two belayers whom I trusted, so after sending out an email to a handful of friends Terese and Steve committed to meeting me Tuesday afternoon for an evening at the Lake. I didn't want to mention that I was leading Acid Rock, but I felt that I should say something because I wanted anyone coming along to realize that there was a chance that they could be witness to a bad accident if something went wrong.



Tuesday finally came, yet the hours slowly passed. It seemed three o'clock would never come. I spent the day by myself, stretching, skateboarding, and trying not to think about it, which of course didn't work. Finally Steve swung by, we picked up Terese, and spent most of the drive avoiding talk of Acid Rock. After passing the trad dudes, we arrived at the East Bluff finding it all to ourselves--Perfect. I walked to the top, set an anchor, and lowered down the route placing tick marks on the key holds (ok, fine, all the holds), and placing the gear one more time, I mean who knows, it could have changed since Sunday, right? I also placed the beak. It was a weird feeling. I didn't really want to do it, but I needed to do it. So for the first time, aside from some rappel anchors on a peak in the Canadian Rockies, I put in a pin. I also looked at the hook for the first time. There was a slight indent on an otherwise completely flat hold where I decided to place the hook. On lead I would place the hook and Terese would quickly tension the hook to the ground via a 5mm tag line. The #3 hb offset also appeared good enough if placed in an exact spot. So I cleaned my gear, except the beak, brushed all the holds, and lowered to the ground.



At this point I still wasn't 100% committed to leading the route and let Steve and Terese know. They both gave a great response, "whatever, do what you want, we are just psyched to be up here on a beautiful evening." I wandered off and soloed through my warm-up circuit: two laps on Easy Overhang, a lap on Callipigeonous, and a lap on Congratulations. Things felt great, though I kind of wished it was ten degrees cooler. Returning to Acid Rock I found Terese wearing something like four layers and freezing. Still a bit warm if you ask me I decided to top rope Acid Rock once. Everything was depending on how this top rope lap went. If it went well, I would likely lead it, though I still was unwilling to fully commit, and if it went poorly it was not happening tonight and likely wouldn't. I couldn't endure another day with the stress.



Needless to say, top roping it went amazing well. The moves felt casual, I was more relaxed than I had ever been before, and I lowered down and knew that I was going to not only lead it, but send it. I wasn't the slightest bit stressed or worried, I knew that I could, and would, do it; an amazing feeling and something that I wish I could feel more often. We pulled the rope, hiked to the top, pulled back the anchor so it couldn't be clipped until I had fully topped out, and stashed a couple cameras so after tensioning the hook Terese could cruise to the top and snap a few pictures.



"On Belay?"

"Belay's on. Do it!"



Stand up on ledge. Left hand on gaston, put in hb offset, perfect. Right hand crimp side pull, left foot up, surf left, get the good spot, switch feet, left foot out on dime edge, relax and GO! Perfect, almost zero barn door, feet up, good edge. OK, you are committed now, just relax, you can do this. Clip draw to beak, clip rope, whew, feet up, place hook-come on, come on, damn hook is tangled, ok, were good now. Undercling, right hand up to sidepull/undercling, get the thumb catch, feet up, left thumb gaston, left hand credit card crimp, GOOD, you got this relax and twist in, right hand micro undercling, RELAX and reach. YES! Match feet and relax. OK shake, rest, place gear. One green alien, two green aliens, good clip rope, place blue alien and #2 stopper, good relax, smile, you are going to live-but, don't you dare fuck up now. Just chill, rest and regain focus. BS with Steve, good, don't think about it. "OK Steve, climbing." Come on, get it done. Right foot up, right hand painful crimp sidepull, mantel, left hand mini sidepull, right hand slightly better sidepull, feet up, relax and GET IT! Good sloper, yes, relax, and grab the jug, YES!!!



After sitting on the lip for a couple minutes I clipped the anchors and lowered down. Amazingly, everything stayed put. I expected with the upward force of lowering the hook would pop off and the hb offset would pull out. However, both stayed. I lowered down, brushing holds and tick marks and cleaning the gear. Everything looked good, though the beak did come out with a few rocks back and forth with my fingers.



I consider Acid Rock one of my proudest climbing accomplishments. Not because of the difficulty or danger factor, but because of the entire process I went through. I honestly didn't think it would get led. Few people climb hard routes at The Lake, let alone even think about leading them. When I first thought about Acid Rock being led, I could not picture myself doing it, ever; I couldn't even do all the moves. However, the process that I went through was an amazing learning experience, so much time and energy (mental and physical) was spent to endure ten minutes tied into the sharp end. I hope I conveyed my experience well enough, and that I inspired a few people to push themselves just a little further at The Lake, whether it is on 5.6 or 5.12. The Lake has a proud history of hard, bold climbing, and I'd like to make sure that my generation gets in on a little piece of that.



Jason Huston

Terry Kieck · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 170 Oct 18, 2006 · Baraboo encoding='utf-8' ? Jason,



I commend you on your accomplishment of leading Acid, it something I have never, nor may ever have the courage to do even though I have the route mercifully wired. Its a great story of the will power and desire to achieve a goal.



I do have a disagreement with what you wrote and I quote, "Although, it is fully within Devil's Lake ethics to place a pin on an unled route". It is not within the ethics at the lake to place any pins. There is a piton(pin) placement and bolting ban in the park. Even though you did remove your placement, now others that might follow may place the same pin and damage the rock to where eventually a piece may be placed changing the route forever.



Perhaps, one of the reasons it has not even been lead is do to the fact that new pins should not be placed at the lake. It wasn't right when Eric Z placed and removed a blade a few years ago and it is still wrong today. I always hear the argument of "it was done in the 70's and 80's....we should be able to do it today" but we are in a different era at the Lake (for good or bad)and I feel we need to respect the park regulations. I would hate to see more climbing regulations or any closures happen at the lake due to pins being placed.



Again, ballsy lead, I just wish a pin would not be placed.



Let the ethics debate begin! (once again)

Terry

EB · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 1,160 Oct 19, 2006 · Winona encoding='utf-8' ? It all sounds pretty trivial to me; the lead, the gear etc. Why do we climb? Is it to tell everyone about our ascents or to push our mental and physical limits; hanging with friends in amazing places, and just simply enjoying a life possibly a bit more than the average joe? First of all the climbing community is the most difunctional of all sporting communities hands down. With that said, I think writing a multi paragraghed essay, and posting it on the internet, about a 40 headpoint is kind of sad. I mean its cool that homeboy pushed his limits and did something no one has done before, but really he should have soloed the thing due to how heniously wired he had the thing. I mean its been soloed before and the man who did it told very few people; just a photo. I respect that! As far as pins go; replace old ones, but if you're that desperate to push your leading standards go somewhere else. Its a slippery slope that we don't want to go down.

Terry Kieck · Joined Jul 2002 · Points: 170 Oct 19, 2006 · Baraboo encoding='utf-8' ? Jason,



You are correct that some "trickery" has taken place in the past in leading some routes, which I made reference to in my first post, but does it make it right?. According to an agreement laid out with the state and WOA several years ago the mentioned "trickery" is going against the regulations. Whether or not some people want to admit it, times have changed, climbing can be regulated. I feel this activity leads the climbing community down a slippery slope with the park.



I agree it is an over exaggeration to say many people (I believe I said "others that might follow") will be leading this route. I was making a statement against the damage that can occur due to placing pins, which is why they are not to be placed at the lake.



I never meant this to be a personal attack on you Jason. You went with the style that was given to you as an option. The correct ethics of the lake need to get out to people and followed so we can enjoy climbing at the Lake for many years to come. The Lake is my home crag and I don't want to have to move. :-)



Peace

Terry

EB · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 1,160 Oct 19, 2006 · Winona encoding='utf-8' ? I'm sorry if i offened antone with my opinion of headpointing and placing pins in order to protect a leada at DL. However, i was there when Eric pounded in the two blades on darcy's wall and felt it was unnessasary then and do now. The ethics and laws at Dl is that placing pins and bolts is not tolerated. Everytime someone disregards the ethics of an area for self a full filling reason is a step backward. Would anyone consider going to the needles and place a bolt or blade on rappel? never; because the local ethics dictitate ground up protection, why is the lake different? Placing a blade by hand, on lead would be different. I respect the physical efforts of those who have sent routes in fashions which contradict the local ethics, but i do not respect the mental efforts of those. Mr. barber had it right on; climb in the fashion in which the ethics dictate. Granted the ethics at Dl are not as renowned as other ares but the exist none the less. These are simple rules which any society needs to exist and flourish. And after all it's just my opinion, we've all got one and I'm not saying its right, just mine.

Jay Knower · Joined Jul 2001 · Points: 5,296 Oct 19, 2006 · Plymouth, NH encoding='utf-8' ? To be clear, I asked Jason to write the essay. I thought his description of the process he went through would be interesting and inspiring. I certainly found it so.



EB, if you have such a problem with a beak placed on rappel (and cleaned with finger pressure), then why don't you better the style Jason set on Acid Rock? And Eric's pins on his roof problem stayed in the rock for at least a week. You had ample opportunity to remove them.



I agree, placing pins at DL is a shady practice and it is frowned upon by park brass. However, Jason had enough perspective to look outside the bluffs and forge his own way. He made a calculated decision and was honest about it afterward. You can question the style, but don't attack the motivation.

Ron L Long · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 90 Oct 19, 2006 · Out yonder in Wisco. encoding='utf-8' ? Whoa here people, let's take a few breaths and calm down.



One reason I rarely post to sites like this (and generally dislike them) is the way almost every thread seems to end up a diss-session. EB, you say "I thought Guideline# 1 was don't be a jerk?" It is, or at least it should be, yet you fired the first shot when you questioned Jason motives for writing and posting the story when clearly you did not understand either. On the other hand, Jason, your response was over the top. From where I sit, you both violated "rule # 1". Hey, I see SW has now joined the ranks of the poor mannered.



With that said, it is not my reason for posting here. My reason for posting is to point out what I see as the confusion between Devil's Lake "ethics" and Devil's Lake "park policy"; they are not always the same.



I believe Jason made an honest, well intentioned effort to find out what the local "ethic" is regarding placing a pin at the Lake. I believe he stayed with in the ethic as it was described to him. I also believe there has never been a clear ethic regarding pin placement at the Lake.



I have been climbing at DL for about 15 years now, and I very clearly remember when EZ made his ascent using pins for pro. I had always been told 'Don't use pins at the Lake, it is absolutely forbidden', yet there was little if any uproar when EZ did it. Both EB and TK say they felt it was wrong then. There is of course no way of knowing if this is true so we have to take their word on this. But I do not remember any real conversation about it.What I do remember is that any time I mentioned that I thought it was crap that it was okay for EZ and not anyone else, I got looked at like I was an idiot, it was EZ, how dare I question him. I offer this only as an example of how the ethic has never been clear.



As for the Park policy, that is clear. I know this because last fall I called the park superintendent and asked. Hey, I pay my taxes and buy a park pass every year, I figure he works for me! Any way. As TK has said, the Park clearly says "Leave the drill and hammer in the car". Any activity that can cause permanent damage to the rock is prohibited. Now I know some of you will say 'but climbing the route repeatedly alters/damages the rock', true but we all know that is not what they are talking about. The use of hammered pins, or placing/re-placing a bolt is forbidden.



Now I can not climb 5.12, lead or top-rope, probably never will. Change that, I know I never will, but that does not diminish my right to speak up here. Jason, you accomplished an incredible bold lead, but the pin beta you got was wrong. Unless the pin is hand placed/removed, thereby acting as f****d up stopper, it should not be used; anything more than that puts the access at risk for all of us. Again, I do not question your motives here, I believe you made a good faith effort, but the people you asked failed you.



As a closing thought, who came up with the idea for the hook technique? That s**t was crazy! My hat is off......

tom selleck · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 270 Oct 19, 2006 · Unknown Hometown encoding='utf-8' ? Nice Job Jason! Sounds like a cool and personal experience! Well written story too.



As for the placing of the bird beak, most miniscule of pitons...whatever. Good job!

Kayte Knower · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 280 Oct 19, 2006 · Unknown Hometown encoding='utf-8' ? I found Jason's writing about his lead of Acid to be inspiring, truthful, and absolutely not egotistical. I loved reading about the work and heart he put into his ascent. I also admire that he had the guts to let his article be posted, especially now, given the firestorm of remarks surrounding his climb.



I think everyone worries about the slippery slope in climbing ethics. Jason's tiny beak leads to one knifeblade, leads to a piton, leads to two pitons, leads to bolts, leads to the end of access forever at The Lake. I think it's unlikely that some overpsyched teenagers will start pounding pins in upper D as a result of Jason's article. Perhaps you can always better the style, but I think we are splitting hairs, and losing sight of a great accomplishment because of it. The rule behind the park policy is not to harm the rock, and Jason didn't. A beak. I've probably done worse trying to clean a stuck stopper.



The sad part is when climbers start leaping to conclusions about the motives and personalities of other climbers they barely know. I've known Jason for years. He is modest, and his motivation for leading Acid was from the heart. I for one, am simply greatful to Jason for sharing his experience. I think it's wonderful to see an inspired new climber at the Lake pushing the edges out.

Steve Sangdahl · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 735 Oct 19, 2006 · eldo sprngs, co encoding='utf-8' ? Yo,Jason....The DLFA sends you its heart-felt congratulations on yer proud ass lead of Acid Rock,its very inspiring to me personnally to see that thing get led.Your essay of yer ascent was excellant. It was good to get a feel for how many times you had top-roped it and sussed out the gear.what is the official pro rating....vs or X ? as for the pin (its hard to even call a beak a frigging "piton") do not sweat it...sometimes these things call for a "new" vision in order to break thru the barriers imposed by rules or "suto" climbers.I do not think people are going to be lining up to lead Acid rock or that if you told a ranger you had placed a beak on a climb that they would know what you were even talking about. Having led a few hard climbs at DL myself,i can tell you that Acid Rock was on my list. I had it ruthlessly wired and was really close to trying it but moved to Boulder 23 years ago and saved myself! I had thought of the hook on a tag line trick but was obviuosly to gripped.

I see you are in boulder also,i live in Eldo look me up and we will talk shit about DL,etc.

Once again,WAY TO SEND and CLUB SALUTE!! steve sangdahl x-dlfa

EB · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 1,160 Oct 19, 2006 · Winona encoding='utf-8' ? "Our society has as sense of entitlement. Climbers believe that because they climb 5.12 or 5.13 they are better than someone who climbs 5.10, and they aren't happy climbing a lesser number. Instaed of focusing on the style of their climbing, they are doing what ever they need to do climb at the highest grade. There's a certain amount of ego, greed, fear, dysfunction, and incompetence. these are all traits of man. Its in business, its in sport. I see society as going downhill. The last thing to go downhill should be climbing. Climbing should be about adventure.

Style and ethics contribute to everything! The climbing community needs to step back and ask itself what style and ethics contribute to the aura of individualism and beauty of climbing. Climbing in pure style should be a metaphor for life. What you learn from climbing can emboldes you for what yoou have to face in life."

Kayte Knower · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 280 Oct 20, 2006 · Unknown Hometown encoding='utf-8' ? What a beautiful quote. Who said that?



I think Jason's lead of Acid upholds the principles expained in that quote, and here is why:



First of all, Jason never mocked other climbers of lesser physical strength in his essay. In contrast, he could not even do all the moves on acid his first try. Jason's essay was not an egotistical climber putting anyone else down. He didn't say, "man, I crushed acid rock" and then downgrade it. No, this route was a true physical challenge for him. So he worked on the route until he could do it on toprope. The only option available given the utter lack of pro on the route. He obviously could not have tried to lead the route onsight, or he would be dead. Bad for access.



Then, once he had climbed Acid on toprope, he bettered his style of ascent, and lead the route using his brains and will to protect himself in the best way possible. And the way he lead it was hard core. A fall could have cost him life or limb. The climb consumed him mentally, and he grew as a climber in order to complete it. This is the magic of climbing for many of us, using mind and technique and will power to accomplish what was once beyond you. Unless you can travel to pakistan to put up first ascents, your own frontier may be the best frontier available.

Steve Sangdahl · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 735 Oct 20, 2006 · eldo sprngs, co encoding='utf-8' ? yo EB, could you please inform me of the identity of the person who solo'ed Acid Rock . thanks. peace and fuk-nes.

Nate Emerson · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 0 Oct 21, 2006 · Unknown Hometown encoding='utf-8' ? Kayte has a very valid point, even if facetious, regarding cleaning a fixed nut. Even in granite, a nut tool has as much chance as damaging the rock as a beak. How many taps on a good beak? two or three?



In the bigger picture: There are grooves from clean placements on routes all over the country. Even routes that have never seen a hammer. Everyone contributing to this forum has done way more damage without ever swinging a hammer (slinging trees, sliding cams, nut tools, shoe rubber, broken holds, cleaning cracks, scraping lichen, piss stains, "climbers" trails, chalk, etc.) The concept of a defined ethic is great, but I think we all should have an idea of the bigger picture and what really is causing impact. If every tenth person going up Brinton's was slamming in an angle before the traverse, then we have a problem.

All the hype and press for free ascents of El Cap and Zion routes required major hammer work over decades to punch out the finger locks up all those kb seams (and that's not including the new bolt counts.) Whether we like it or not, pins are nearly always intertwined with the current "clean" or "hammerless" standard.



From the DL perspective: There is a defined ethic. Almost. From all that I've heard over time, the more serious .12 leads at the lake have usually involved pins, and usually more metal than 1 beak. How many of the hard ones have even seen a handful of ascents, even after a couple of decades? Not too much impact if you ask me. I haven't been back for years, but wouldn't someone putting in a pin to protect something like Happy Hunting Grounds be chased out of the park with tire irons by fellow climbers? I don't think DL's clean ethics are going to deteriorate after Jason's lead. If anything will happen from climbs like Jason's, it's that more people are going to look at some of the really hard routes for leading possibilities.



HOT TALK

I think that this ascent is the raddest of the rad. Jason, I'm glad you got it. I'm super psyched for you. Too many people have talked about leading that thing for years, and you just went out and got it done. I'm almost puking as I visualize those moves over shite gear. I need you as rope gun - get out here soon.

JJ Schlick · Joined May 2006 · Points: 11,339 Oct 21, 2006 · Flagstaff, AZ encoding='utf-8' ? Congrats on the lead Jason.



I wouldn't get too bummed out on the reactions above. Nate is correct about many of the 5.12 leads done in the park. Bagatelle opened up to leading via steel, and still those leads are near legendary in the small pond of midwestern climbing. The only difference being the steel was pounded on lead. As far as ethics at DL go, I think they will sway a bit here and there depending on what group you are climbing with, and what route you are about to embark on. I too have been haunted by hard lines at the lake. Night sweats and visions of horror/success. Until a person puts the work in and ties into the sharp end on one of the truly difficult lines at DL, all explanation to someone who hasn't is useless. It is a different game. It is not that someone leading Upper D doesn't share a similar feeling if that route is at their limit, it is just that many of the .12s at the lake have spicy, limited gear.



As long as people are lured to the hard, bold lines it seems there will always be an element of steel lingering in the shadows. I have lead five .12s at the lake without steel of any sort, hand or hammer. There are several more that I want to do of the same nature. So there are challenges out there that are clearly steeless. But, I have to admit I have looked at several lines and thought about pounding on lead... Will I ever do it? I don't know, depends on how bored I get.



And as far as the "Potter" comparison goes, I met Jason briefly this summer. We toproped a few things together. Dog fucker, All the Way, and Acid. Jason was soft spoken, mellow, and sincere. I remember thinking I would climb with him any time. I don't think he led Acid for an ego fix. When these hard lines creep into your soul, doing them is a very personal endeavor. No one has made the press for leading a 5.12 at the lake in a long, long time. No one is making money off it or getting sponsors because of it. So, Jason, good work. If someone, especially any of those who commented above, wants to up the ante on the style of Acid, it is there waiting.



Peace- JJ



PS- I believe that the pin on Thoroughfare was placed while on aid. Ie- Hanging on something with both hands free to pound away. Nobody has yanked that relic out or decried the downfall of local ethics. Jason did a bold and personal thing. I think we should keep the hypocrisy to ourselves and give the man some credit for keeping the old, bold ways of DL alive.

Merk · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 0 Oct 21, 2006 · Unknown Hometown encoding='utf-8' ? Good Work. I think you pulled off the challenging task of writing about your own achievements without being obnoxious.

SteveS · Joined May 2006 · Points: 2,435 Oct 21, 2006 · Unknown Hometown encoding='utf-8' ? jason,



great essay!! as both therese and i read this we had smiles on our faces. i cant speak for her but without a doubt that climb was one of the top 3 or 4 climbs i've ever seen. thank you for letting us be there. it was a joy. so rad and so inspiring. i only wish you could have spent the fall out here as well. there are so many climbs i'd love to work with you and i cant wait for you to get back!!



dont worry about the dean potter comments. if those people only knew you.



take care of yourself and have a blast at smith.



steve



for all the people that dont like the pin...do it in better style, then talk.