Glady’s, a Caribbean restaurant situated in the heart of Brooklyn, was founded by two white American males after a trip to Jamaica. Because these two men are not a part of the West Indian culture and identity, many speculate as to whether or not they are guilty of cultural appropriation. On the other hand, some believe that it they are simply appreciating another culture. An analysis of Sidney Mintz’s “Food and Diaspora” aids in the clarification and distinction between appropriation and appreciation while also exploring how food changes through travel.

The identity of a cuisine is a direct reflection of its culture, history, and geographical location. Mintz stresses the “enormous importance of place – of locality and its distinctive natural characteristics – in the shaping over time of culturally specific food systems” (521). When making jerk chicken, for example, the type of wood used plays a major role in the flavoring of the chicken. Trees native to Jamaica are what give it is signature flavor. Similarly, the spices used in the jerk are grown locally on the island, allowing for a quote-unquote distinctly Jamaican flavor. When the founders of Glady’s brought the local man’s recipe back to the United States, the locality of the dish was lost; local ingredients and equipment were either substituted or imported. Lastly, the history of jerk chicken does not necessarily reveal itself from a restaurant in Brooklyn. Slaves would make jerk meats for preservation, as they were denied proper refrigeration. The cultural and historical significance of jerk chicken is lost when transported stateside.

Although the founders of Glady’s are white, they brought the flavors of the Caribbean to Brooklyn. This is reflective of the integration of foreign cuisines in American culture, which does not necessarily indicate cultural appropriation. If Glady’s had claimed that their recipes were original and not learned from a Jamaican, that would certainly be cultural appropriation. However, in the interview with BK Live, the founder clearly showed his admiration of Jamaican culture and his intent for sharing it with the community. This reminds me of a personal example of cultural appreciation. One of my favorite dishes that my mother makes is the Irish staple of corned beef and cabbage. However, my mother is fully Italian. She learned the recipe from my grandmother (her mother-in-law) who is from an Irish background. I do not believe that this is cultural appropriation, but instead appreciation. She learned the dish from someone of a different culture and respected those traditions to make her own. It is important “to keep the importance of locality and culture in mind” when exploring and making new dishes from other cultures (521).

These discussions lead to the ultimate question of defining the authenticity of food. Factors such as the history of the dish, the location of its culture, the ingredients and equipment used, and the person making it all play a vital role in determining authenticity. Learning about the history of a dish allows for an appreciation of its role in society. Understanding where a particular cuisine comes from illustrates why it is prepared in a certain way. Exploring the geography of the original culture sheds light on why particular ingredients and techniques are employed. Lastly, examining the chef making the dish can determine whether or not they are reflecting its origin or exploiting it for profit. In the case of Glady’s, I believe that they can continue labeling the restaurant as providing authentic Caribbean food. The founders explored the history, geography, and culture of Jamaica and respected their traditions. They credited the man in the shack for his jerk chicken recipe. Glady’s appears to be an example of cultural appreciation, not guilty of cultural appropriation.