Bernal Heights was once a lawless upstart prone to bogus gold claims

Cortland Avenue looking west to Mission Street where street car tracks are being laid. Streetcar Track Construction on Cortland Avenue West from Winfield Street | October 11, 1909 Cortland Avenue looking west to Mission Street where street car tracks are being laid. Streetcar Track Construction on Cortland Avenue West from Winfield Street | October 11, 1909 Photo: SFMTA Archives Photo: SFMTA Archives Image 1 of / 39 Caption Close Bernal Heights was once a lawless upstart prone to bogus gold claims 1 / 39 Back to Gallery

The first mention of Bernal Heights that I came across in the Chronicle digital archives came on December 2, 1859. There was an advertisement offering affordable five-acre residence lots. One of the selling points was that it was only a 15 minute drive to City Hall. They would only be offered for one year. Things in Bernal Heights got interesting rather quickly.

Sometimes the digital archives tell story, uncovering long forgotten history. My dig in the Bernal Heights archives even revealed the moment in 1873 where the courts determined that Holly Park was public ground. Stories of gang activity in the neighborhood were found over and over in the early days. Reporting soon painted a picture of abject violence that seemed to rule the hill in the 1870's. We've shared some of the more colorful Chronicle archival reports below. Photos of the area's evolution over the ensuing decades can be found in the gallery above.

Bernal Heights was originally part of the Rancho de las Salinas y Potrero Nuevo, and owes its name to Jose Cornelio de Bernal, to whom the land was granted in 1839 by the Mexican government. In the 1860s the rancho was subdivided into small lots, and was first populated primarily by Irish immigrants who farmed the land and ran dairy ranches. According to legend, a mini gold rush was triggered in 1876 when con artists planted the hilltop with traces of gold. We found evidence of people claiming the "Eureka Lode" in reporting from the 1870s.

The district survived the 1906 earthquake and fire, thanks to the hill's bedrock foundation. Some once-ramshackle houses that were constructed out of timber salvaged from the wreckage still remain today. Several small cottages on Shotwell Street were originally built as "bonus plan" dwellings, provided to people who had lost their homes in the disaster but still had jobs. For these reasons, more people moved to Bernal Heights following the earthquake. World War II brought another influx, this time of people who came to work in the naval shipyards of nearby China Basin.

In the 1980s Bernal Heights had a reputation as a dangerous place to venture, and likely spot to get your car radio stolen. Cortland started to be cleaned up in the early '90s, when the Good Life Grocery moved in, followed by restaurants like the Liberty Café, as well as other small businesses. Today the neighborhood feels a bit different from the vibe of the 1800s, as evidenced in these notes from our archive:

October 5, 1871 Neighborhood Troubles

The time of the Police Magistrate was taken up for over an hour this morning in the unfolding of the petty surroundings of a neighborhood quarrel at Bernal Heights, where the family of Gustavus Peterson had waged war against an old man, and lame widow named Mary Whittle. Judge Pennie lectured Mr. and Mr. (sic) Peterson on their duties as neighbors, and fined them $10 each.

August 7, 1873 Dennison's Dilemma

The suit of J. Martinetti against E.F. Dennison was tried and decided in the County Court yesterday... Martinetti complained of Dennison that he had been digging a deep pit across Coso Avenue near the complainant's property; that in making the excavations he frequently fired off blasts which threw rocks in the air and shook the complainant's dwelling, terrifying his wife and children and endangering their lives; that he had made an excavation the entire width of the avenue, about forty feet deep, and had extended it to within ninety feet of the complainant's premises, shutting off access to it by the natural and usual route, and interfering with him in the enjoyment of the free right to the use and advantages of his property. He therefore prayed that the obstruction be declared a nuisance, that the defendant be commanded to abate it, and for $5,000 damages. Dennison denied all the allegations of the complainant, and alleged that the excavation had been made in a bluff for the purpose of grading it down for the improvement of his property, and that it had been done in the usual way, with care being done to avoid accidents, and that the complainant had not be injured. The judge disagreed with the defendant, ordered the nuisance abated and awarded the plaintiff $100 damage.

September 2, 1873 Reported gold discoveries on Bernal Heights

Claims located - the work of gashing ledges begun - sulphurite of copper and iron found - no gold in the rock.

Gold! Gold! Gold! exclaimed Henry Housler, in honest German, long past forty years of age, when fourteen days ago, at a depth of fifteen feet, while digging a well, he discovered the color of gold. His joy knew no bounds and he at once called to his wife and daughter and to them confided the event of his life. It was declared by the trio to keep the matter a profound secret, and the discovery was not publicly disclosed until yesterday morning. Remembering the foolish excitement that rich deposits existed in Telegraph Hill and in the sand-hills adjoining Selby's Smelting Works, at North Beach, a Bulletin reporter was dispatched to investigate the truth of current reports. On reaching the scene of action everything was found quiet, though the residents in the vicinity were actively engaged in discussing plans for a united effort to locate the entire Heights and commence active operations at once. During the day hundreds of people visited the supposed gold fields and passed favorable comments on the specimens offered for inspection.

There was a rush, by several San Francisco residents to stake mining claims on already occupied land, which was not legal. A geological study determined that the ore was actually the same that comprised much of the San Francisco peninsula. The real fortune was the temporary increase in real estate prices on Bernal hill for a brief period. Scientists suspected that someone planted a very small quantity of gold in order to defraud unsuspecting citizens.

May 11, 1876 Killed her gosling

Edward McNabb and Ellen O'Gorman live on Bernal Heights. They are neighbors and both raise geese. Ellen alleges that on Sunday last she had been t"ending the little goslins all the the blissid day in the brilliant hot sun to kape them off his premises." She says that McNabb struck the little thing "wid a stick and killed it intirely." After listening to the evidence for some time this morning Justice Pennie dismissed the charge of malicious mischief which had been preferred against McNabb.

May 23, 1876 Gold Quartz on Bernal Heights

Reports of finding gold persist. Victor Ressayre believes he has discovered a ledge of gold quartz in Bernal Heights and filed a notice at the Recorder's office, describing it as the "Eureka Lode and Paris Milling and Mining Company."

August 31, 1876 His Majesty "the King" in court

A vicious looking rascal named Richard Brown, who rejoices in the sobriquets of "The Chicken No. 2" and The King of the Bernal Heights Hoodlums," made his appearance in the Police Court this morning to answer to eight charges of misdemeanor. The officers who made the arrest had eveidently kept an account of the misdeeds of "The King" for the past six months, as the first charge dates back to the 12th of March. "The King" assumed all the dignity befitting his position and insolently cross-questioned the witnesses in a manner that would do credit to the most notorious Police Court shyster. He succeeded in getting one of the charges of malicious mischief dismissed, and was ordered to appear for sentence on seven charges, two of which are assault and battery. The "King" will take up his residence tomorrow afternoon in the County Castle, where he will probably remain during the holidays and the next Fourth of July,. The Bernal Heights gang will now be obliged to choose a new king.

October 27, 1876 Bernal Heights Hoodlums Under Arrest

During the last eleven days a squad of police, consisting of Officers Falls, Hutton Loftus, Jacoby and Scott, have captured 27 members of the Bernal Heights and Mission gang. Fourteen of them have been convicted and are either in the Industrial School or County Jail. Some weeks since Dick Brown (see above) chief of the Bernal Heights tribe, was captured and sent to the County Jail for a longterm. Last night, eleven of this tribe were captured by the officers going to their sleeping places about 1 o'clock, and taking them out of their beds. It is believed that the last of "Dick's" tribe is in the toils. On Wednesday night the members of this tribe assaulted and beat a German teamster named Rosenthal, whom they found driving along the road. For some time these gang members have been annoying the lady teachers in the Fairmount School in every conceivable manner. The charges upon which the gang members have been convicted consist of assault and battery, petty larceny and general acts of hoodlumism. They are from 16 to 22 years of age.

February 17, 1877 Operations renewed by the Bernal Heights Gang

On Sunday, February 3rd, members of the old gang of Bernal Heights hoodlums, named Dick Brown (King of Bernal Heights), John O'Callahan and James Quirk, who have served out their recent sentences in the County Jail, concluded to let citizens in that vicinity know that they were out by making a raid on a wayside place called the Five-mile House, kept by an invalid named John Bracken. The ruffians intimidated the barkeeper, pilfered the till, smashed the windows and carried off a demijohn of whisky. Warrants were procured for their arrest, and yesterday officers Silvey, Hutton and Fennell, after a chase through the hills, captured them. Charges of robbery are registered against them.

October 23, 1877 Operations of the Bernal Heights Gang

The Bernal Heights hoodlums have become very active under the leadership of Joseph Watkins, alias "Mountain Jack." Disturbances are of frequent occurrence, and robberies take place very often. The gang generally singles out those who are old and unprotected, breaking into their houses and taking anything which comes to their hand. One old man is disturbed almost nightly by these boys. Last week, while Charles Wood was away from his house for a short time, the hoodlums made a raid upon the unprotected dwelling and carried off bed clothing, fowls, clothing and a $90 [roll?]. Poultry ranches are raided upon almost nightly.

December 3, 1877 Lawlessness of the Bernal Heights Gang

On Friday Dan Murphy and Charles Manchester, members of the Bernal Heights gang of hoodlums, were held to answer to a charge of assault to rob, and the former was also sentenced by the Police Judge to one year's imprisonment for simple assault. These men, with five others, a few nights ago went to the house of Patrick Haight and his wife and with terrific blows upon the door awakened Haight and his wife. They demanded admittance upon the ground that they were policemen, and wished to search the house. Upon obtaining admittance the seven men, partially masked by handkerchiefs tied around the lower part of their faces, attacked Haight and his wife and demanded money. They ransacked the house from top to bottom and beat the inmates unmercifully. Mrs. Haight was knocked down and beaten about the face while kneeling in her night clothes upon the floor. But an accidental raising of the handkerchiefs, with the recognition of the voices of two of the robbers enabled Haight to identify Manchester and Murphy and bring them to justice. The six ruffians did not succeed in finding any money, and went off empty-handed after their attack. On Friday, after the two criminals had been held to answer, Herbert Manchester, a brother of Charles, and a member of the Bernal Heights gang, with four others, went to the house of Haight and entered the yard. Haight's cow was lying there, and the brutal ruffians at once seized her and cut her throat. The arteries were not reached, but the trachea was severed so that the air enters the lungs in great measure, through the cut. This Bernal Heights gang is now under the captaincy of Tom Farron, and it has an open field for operations, there being no policemen beyond Twenty-sixth Street. The lawless characters have for some time kept up a reign of terror in that locality, and have so impressed the people with their ability and willingness to do any act, that they are afraid to testify against criminals when caught or to make complaints. The members of the gang are said to make frequent raids upon the houses, disguising their features by a liberal supply of soot or blacking. Saturday morning Herbert Manchester and John Smith were before the Court on charges of petty larceny. Thomas Brown, who lives at Bernal Heights, discovered these two young men walking along a fence at 6 o'clock in the morning, carrying a bag that contained geese. Seeing that the fellows had no gun Brown gave chase and captured them. In the bag they found four geese. They were found guilty as charged, and will receive sentence today.

December 19, 1877 A capture at Bernal Heights

A few days prior, four of the Bernal Heights gang were arrested on grave charges. Several nights prior, a group of the masked gang members gained access to the home of William Eagan, with the ruse of being the police. Once they were inside, they ransacked the house while they brandished pistols and knives. Mrs. Eagan recognized some of them. They had once again raided the property of Patrick Haight. One of the gang members held a pistol to her head. On another day, a gang member once again attacked Mr. Haight at gun-point. He was found to not have any money with him. The hoodlum left empty-handed.

The police organized a posse of police to capture the gang members, keeping vigilance at an old shanty where they were known to congregate. The hoodlums became aware of the police presence and dispersed. But, the police were ready for them this time, and they were captured. One gang member, Tom Fannan, would not give up with out a fight. He received a severe clubbing.

A few nights prior, Charles Woods' hen-house was raided by the gang. Mr. Woods fired some shots, and the gang members ran. Tom Fannan's brother, Jack, was found to have a bullet in his arm. But, they were unable to prove that he was involved in that incident. In connection with other robberies, he was arrested and booked for the Industrial School.

December 20, 1877 The Bernal Heights Hoodlums, operations of the gang - houses robbed and travelers waylaid

On this day, several Bernal Heights residents went to City Hall to tell what they knew of the disturbances by hoodlums in the neighborhood. They told tales of repeated robberies at gun-point and acts of violence. All, without exception said the crimes occurred almost nightly. One resident turned his house into a fortress, with a double-barreled shotgun at the head of his bed, revolvers under his and his wife's pillows, and small portholes cut into the sides of his house, from which he could shoot would be intruders. It was thought that he had in fact wounded one of them. The tales of terror and mayhem mounted.

December 29, 1877

Several persons living at Bernal Heights came into town a few days ago and got permits to carry arms, with which to protect themselves from hoodlums.

January 29, 1878 Peace restored on Bernal Heights

D.P. Burns, William Eagan, John Doran and others, who live at Bernal Heights, today sent notice to Chief Kirkpatrick, informing him that the Bernal Heights gang of hoodlums was entirely broken up. They say that the neighborhood is now quiet and peaceable, and the people are able to sleep without fear of having their houses robbed.

May 23, 1879 Bernal Heights Hoodlums' pastimes and illicit business operations

Police Sergeant Falls last night made a raid upon a new theatre recently established at Bernal Heights, and captured the whole paraphernalia of the company, but did not succeed in arresting the performers. A short time ago complaints began to be made to the police that the hoodlums of Bernal Heights had taken possession of a vacant house on Courtland Street, where three or four nights each week the whole hoodlum population congregated for the purpose of making sleep impossible to the neighbors. Consequently, Sergeant Falls, with a squad of officers, visited the place, and found it in the possession of Mat Sullivan and Joe McCarthy, notorious hoodlums, who were arrested. One large room had been fitted up as a theater, with stage, scenery, seats, ticket-office and other conveniences. Old dresses, skirts, and clothing of different kinds were found, which showed that the performers had quite extensive, if not expensive, wardrobes. In searching about the house the officers discovered that the enterprising managers had entered into the business of manufacturing matches, of which a large quantity was found, together with phosphorus, sulphur and dishes used in the business. These articles were taken to the Sixteenth Street Station, but last night a large portion of the evidence disappeared in smoke, having taken fire. But, Sgt. Falls thinks that enough remains to convince the authorities that the prisoners were engaged in running an illicit match factory in connection with the show business.