I love to buy peas at the market so they’re at their freshest and sweetest. If there are small hands in the house, they will make light work of podding (and eating). Otherwise, sit down with the TV or radio for company, and lose yourself in this most comforting and methodical of jobs that connects you so completely to the season. Peas are perfect for this Greek braise, but frozen will work well, too.

Pork tenderloin with oregano braised peas

One tenderloin feeds three people happily, and if you dislike fennel, celery is a great alternative.

Prep 20 min

Cook 30 min

Serves 3-4

3 large garlic cloves

Zest and juice of 1 lemon

Leaves from 1 handful oregano stalks

1 tsp black peppercorns

Sea salt

120ml extra-virgin olive oil

1-2 pork tenderloins

For the braised peas

450g potatoes

500g freshly podded or frozen peas

4 small shallots, finely sliced

1 head of fennel, outer layer discarded, the rest finely chopped

2 bay leaves

250ml dry white wine (chardonnay or chenin blanc works well)

Bash together the garlic, lemon zest, oregano, peppercorns and half a teaspoon of sea salt in a mortar, or blitz in a small food processor, until you have a smoothish paste. Work in four tablespoons of olive oil, then set half aside.

Cut the pork into 2mm-thick slivers – this makes the cooking time fast and furious. Toss the slivers in half the oregano mix and set aside.

For the peas, cut the potatoes into roughly equal bite-sized pieces, put a pan of salted water on to boil, and add the potatoes. Bring to a simmer and cook until al dente (about 10-12 minutes, depending on the size of the pieces), adding the peas for the final two minutes of cooking. Drain and set aside.

Put a deep, wide pan over a medium heat and, after a minute, pour in the rest of the olive oil. Add the shallots, fennel and bay leaves, season with a few pinches of salt, then sweat for about 10 minutes, until soft and translucent. Add the peas, potatoes, the rest of the garlic and oregano oil, and stir to coat. Cook for a few minutes, then pour in the wine, half that amount of water, and the lemon juice. Turn up the heat and simmer for another five minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed.

Heat a frying pan over a high heat and, when smoking hot, flash-fry the pork slivers in a single layer for about five to 10 seconds a side, so they are just browned but still tender.

Serve the braised peas in shallow bowls with the pork slivers on top, and dress with another slick of olive oil and lemon wedges.

And for the rest of the week

The oregano and garlic oil is very versatile: rub it over chicken or some potatoes before roasting, or try brushing it over grilled summer vegetables, such as courgettes or aubergine. The braised peas are also delicious with lamb – try them with grilled chops or neck fillet. For a vegetarian option, I love crumbling over feta and pairing with orzo.