When the owners of Babani’s, which bills itself as the first Kurdish restaurant in the United States, decided to open a second location just across the river from downtown St. Paul, they didn’t know what to expect.

What they found was that with ample free parking came more customers — so many more that the small staff couldn’t keep up. The family-run restaurant was so overwhelmed they decided to shutter the original spot in favor of the new, busier one.

The space, formerly the Wabasha Street Deli, is bigger than the old restaurant, but the new owners wisely added some walls and a drop ceiling made of open trellis work. Warm, Middle Eastern rugs and artwork adorn the walls, and pretty lanterns hang from above.

The menu is the same tried-and-true list of Kurdish favorites, with a few extras and specials added here and there.

On the day we visited, we tried a new chicken kabob dish ($14.50, includes soup or salad), that knocked our socks off. The chicken was so perfectly flavored and tender that I can easily declare it the best kabob I have ever eaten. Served simply with rice, we opted for for the creamy, lemony dowjic chicken soup, which is like a ray of sunshine on a cold day, as the accompaniment.

Since that was the only new item, my dining partners and I happily ordered some classics and found them as delicious as ever.

Specifically, we started with an order of Nareen ($7.50 for four slices), which is essentially Kurdish cheese bread. The bread is springy inside and has a crisp crust, and it’s topped with tangy feta and served with a zippy tomato sauce. Related Articles Game on! Tailgating takeout ideas for game day

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We also sampled the Kubey Brinj ($7.50 lunch, $12.50 dinner), a crisp, oblong rice dumpling filled with spiced meat and Bakla ($7.95 lunch, $12.50 dinner), a buttery, dilly Kurdish stir-fry of sorts.

Service at Babani’s is swift and courteous, and the food comes out lightning fast. It’s a great place for a business lunch or casual dinner. The owners said they’ll be adding beer and wine, soon, too, for those who enjoy a tipple with their meal.

Babani’s 2: 32 E. Fillmore Ave., St. Paul; 651-602-9964; babanis.com.

Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of new or changed restaurants.