Servers will tell you to start with a stick or two of satay. You can, although the skewers are cooked on a flattop instead of a grill, and inconsistency is an issue. The pork skewers that are so appealingly juicy and savory with sweet soy one week can be scorched and bitter the next time you see them, and just ordinary the following week. (The pickled watermelon radishes on the side, though, are always terrific; they’re brined with lime leaf.) The peanut sauce on chicken satay may hum with red curry and chiles, or may present as a sweet, inert blob.

A more promising opening move, and one that will help place Cédric and Ochi Vongerichten’s mental map of Indonesia in perspective, would be the Jimbaran-style clams. This is not a dish that is likely to have been stirred by generations of sainted grandmothers since the dawn of time. It is, in fact, a specialty of the seafood vendors who sprang up on a stretch of Balinese beach where resorts first began to appear sometime around the birth of Taylor Swift. Littlenecks, flavored with soy sauce and garlic paste, are grilled under flakes of coconut, which form the golden crust that would be provided by bread crumbs if these were clams oreganata. A slice of pickled red chile sits on each one, waiting. If you were on vacation, you would order tray after tray of these.

Here on Spring Street, other things will keep you distracted. In the hearts-of-palm salad, sweet and sour are carefully pitted against each other by means of a mango vinaigrette, a lime-and-fish-sauce dressing and a neon coat of passion-fruit pulp. The crab cake is, despite its sweet chile sauce, about as Indonesian as Betty White, but it is fresh and fluffy and not worth arguing about. Wayan’s rendition of the street snack bakwan jagung is a golden agglomeration of corn kernels and shallots fried into a flat, crunchy disc.

There had better be nasi goreng at any restaurant that is even playing at being Indonesian. There is, the rice fried just until it crackles a bit between your teeth. It has a gentle but genuine spice undercurrent that would be welcome in more of the cooking. Of course there is a gado gado, and this being 2019, of course the main ingredient is avocado; the hard-cooked eggs belong to quail. This time the peanut dressing isn’t cloying or clumpy.