Undercover investigation revealed both companies were still recently sourcing jeans from factory where sandblasting took place

Abercrombie & Fitch boast of using 'best practices in workplace safety'

An investigation has revealed how factory workers in China risk contracting a potentially fatal disease to produce jeans for fashion labels Abercrombie & Fitch and American Eagle Outfitters.

Employees at a factory where the two companies source their products were filmed using a method known as sandblasting - which gives the material a fashionable faded look.

The practice is known to be dangerous and has been banned in some countries after being linked to deaths from respiratory disease silicosis.

Dangerous method: Secret footage taken during an undercover investigation shows workers in Chinese factory which supplies Abercrombie & Fitch and American Eagle Outfitters continue to use sandblasting

The short programme, titled 'Denim Blues' and due to be aired on Al Jazeera on March 19, also exposed poor working conditions and environmental damage resulting from the industry in the Chinese city of Xintang, known as the jeans capital of the world.

The video, shot by an undercover researcher, captured employees working at a frantic pace in a factory known as Dongguan Tiangxiang.

Chemicals lie haphazardly around the room and workers use a potent chemical called potassium permanganate without wearing proper protective masks.

The secret footage also shows sandblasting going on in the factory and the labels of American Eagle Outfitters (AEO), Abercrombie & Fitch and Hollister, owned by A&F, are clearly visible.

Secret footage: In the short film, an undercover researcher discovers an Abercrombie & Fitch label at a factory where jeans are being sandblasted

Part of initiative: American Eagle Outfitters (AEO) jeans are also seen in the footage. The company joined an initiative in 2011 to help boycott the practice

In 2011, AEO joined an initiative spearheaded by Levi and H&M to boycott the controversial production method known as sandblasting.

In a company statement, the popular brand said: 'Until we believe that proper controls can be put in place to ensure sandblasting is done safely, we are no longer developing new styles with sandblasting.'

WHAT IS SANDBLASTING? Jeans with a distressed, already-worn appearance have been popular since the 1990s and method to create the effect is by blasting them with sand. Manual sandblasting of jeans requires only a hose, an air compressor and sand - workers literally blast the material with sand to give them a faded look and to soften the denim. Constant exposure to minute particles used in the process can lead to accidental inhalation, and later respiratory disease silicosis. Silicosis is caused when small particles of silica dust from the sand embed themselves within the lungs. The incurable disease causes shortness of breath, coughing, weakness and weight loss and in its acute form is fatal. Advertisement

When asked by investigators about their supplier's continued use of the practice, they claimed the sandblasting facilities had been removed but did not say when.

A spokesman said: 'AEO has thoroughly investigated the factory Dongguan Tim Cheung (here referred to as Dongguan Tianxiang) and has verified that all sandblasting equipment has been removed from the factory.'

Abercrombie & Fitch also appeared to dispute the evidence, claiming: 'Yes Dongguan Tiangxiang produces goods for us. We don't allow vendors to use sandblasting during the manufacturing process of our goods.'

On their website the world-famous brand says: '[We are] proud of our commitment to international human and labor rights, and to ensuring that our products are only made in safe and responsible facilities.

'We partner with suppliers who respect local laws and share our dedication to utilizing the best practices in human rights, labor rights and workplace safety.

'Abercrombie & Fitch believes that business should only be conducted with honesty and respect for the dignity and rights of all people.

Health risk: A bucket of chemicals lies exposed in the Dongguan Tianxiang factory, where AEO and Abercrombie & Fitch source their jeans

Dirty environment: The footage shows how working conditions in the factory are a long way from what Abercrombie & Fitch customers might imagine

Employees at a factory where Abercrombie & Fitch and AEO source their products were filmed using a method known as sandblasting - which gives the material a fashionable faded look

Sandblasting is dangerous as constant exposure to minute particles in the process can lead to silicosis.

In 2009, Turkey banned the process after hundreds of former workers were diagnosed with the disease. Dozens of others have died.

The method is still legal in China and some workers run mobile sandblasting services travelling between factories - and they are paid around 4p for each pair of jeans.

Factory managers refused to discuss the process, but workers speaking on the condition of anonymity confirmed the controversial practice continues.

One worker told Al Jazeera: 'The main problem with sandblasting is the dust. This means you risk getting silicosis if you are not properly protected.'

Some workers say they suffer not only from lung problems but also from allergies caused by dyes and other chemicals used in the making of denim.

Al Jazeera will be airing the show on Thursday March 19.

Sandblasting is dangerous as constant exposure to minute particles in the process can lead to silicosis (The picture above was taken in a different factory not associated with Abercrombie & Fitch or AEO)