Care and feeding of the IBM Model M keyboard

About the 1391406 / 1391401

Ah, the mighty IBM Model M — the best keyboard ever manufactured. The Model M was originally bundled with 8086 and 80286 IBM PS/2 computers dating from around 1986. The design has not been improved on since. Fortunately the Model M is so durable and well-made that a vintage 80's keyboard will likely still be usable today, after a decade and a half and of use and abuse.

The M's key feature is it's wonderful clicky feel. Tap a Model M key and it lets out two clicks, as the key is depressed and then released, click-CLACK! The Model M gives a wonderful tactile feel of connection with the keyboard — as you depress a key, the weight required to generate a character is just right . Why would anyone be a keyboard evangelist? Use a Model M and all will become clear!



I've always said you should spend the most money you can afford on the parts of your computer that you come into contact with. This means getting the best keyboard, mouse, and monitor you can afford. Sure, you can buy cheapo equipment, but it won't last very long and you won't get the best use out of your machine — buy a Model M now, and you'll still be using it when every other part of your computer has worn out or been replaced by upgrades.

The Model M weighs in around 2.25 kg / 5 lb depending on the exact model, and absolutely will not move around on your desk while typing. Usefully, it's the only keyboard you could use to beat someone to death if you're ever caught in a tight spot with only computer peripherals to defend yourself. Compare with the flexible, squishy, rubbishy "multimedia" keyboard you can buy at any old computer store. No "Windows" keys here, no "sleep" key waiting to be pressed accidentally, a proper full-size space bar, and long backspace key. Yes! The Model M is a colossus among keyboard-kind.

Possibly, the only cooler keyboard is the original IBM PC-AT 84-key board. This is a real monster, being even heavier (~2.8 kg) and more clicky than the Model M. These things are ancient as Moses, dating from around 1984. Yeah, I want one, even if it requires a PC-AT to actually work . The PC-AT works fine with a PS/2 compatible using an AT-PS/2 converter (thanks to Damian Walker for this correction).

Buying an M

2020 note: these are prices from 2004 and as such, wildly out of date. Occasionally British Model M boards pop up on eBay.co.uk , ones I've seen recently have gone for around £20 each. You can find US models more cheaply, but international shipping may be a problem (2.25 kg of plastic and metal, remember). There are few other places selling them — I've seen them at The Keyboard Company for £29, clickykeyboards.com has mainly US versions around $40-50, and pckeyboard.com has a modern Unicomp remake of the Model M with the same keyboard feel for $49 for a US one, $79 for a board with British layout.

Required reading if shopping for an M is the Model M buyer's guide at clickeykeyboards.com

Distinguishing features

Mine is a type 1391406 Model M manufactured in the UK in 1989. This is the British variant of the "International" keyboard layout — the international Model M has an L-shaped enter key with an extra key nestling in it's crook, so it's 102 keys total.



My M is an old-school board made by IBM United Kingdom, there are later model 1391406 keyboards made by Lexmark which have a blue IBM logo and fixed keyboard lead, these were made from 1993 onwards. They are not as nicely made as the IBM-manufactured ones. I understand 1391406s are comparatively rare in the US, where you are more likely to see the good ol' models 1391401 or 42H1292. Consider yourself elite if you can find an M with the 12' keyboard cord.



British 102-key layout: large enter key, £ shares a key with 3, ' shares with @, and ~ with # ( links to a larger version ).

"Birth certificate" — Model M type 1391406, made in Scotland 15 years ago and still going strong. Rear view. I heard the grille was, on an earlier model, supposed to house a speaker to give an audible "click" on pressing a key ( links to a larger version ). Removable PS/2 keyboard cord for ninja mobile Model M swapping. Battle damage. I imagine a stressed office junior snapping and going on the rampage with his trusty keyboard.

Disassembly and cleaning

I've never seen a 5.5 mil one, I don't think they exist! ", I bought one on the Internet from before removing the keycaps. Taking apart and cleaning a Model M is relatively easy, I advise setting aside about an hour to do the actual disassembly and cleaning the parts, as well as time for the parts to dry. You only need one proper tool, a 5.5mm (7/32" US) nut driver like this one. After being told by the chap in my local hardware shop that, "", I bought one on the Internet from axminster.co.uk . You need a thin-walled nut driver because three of the nuts that hold the two halves of the Model M together are deeply recessed, a normal socket is way too big. I suggest taking the M apartremoving the keycaps.



Other stuff handy to have:

A soft cloth you don't mind ruining

Can of air duster

Cotton buds (called Q-tips in the US)

Isopropyl alcohol for stubborn stains

Access to a sink Other stuff handy to have: Anyway, undo the four nuts and put them in a safe place. Lift off the top half of the keyboard's shell and undo the nut that fixes the metal plate holding the keys to the lower half of the keyboard shell. Your M has has likely accumulated a variety of hair, crumbs, dust and other grim stuff over it's life, so laying down newspaper before taking it all apart is a good idea. I can't resist showing you a few "before" pictures of the gribbliness I was dealing with:

Pictures link to zoomed-in versions (large!). Model M keycaps come in two parts, so just pop off the top halves of the keys with your fingers — you shouldn't need to use a knife to pry them off. This exposes the smaller keys you can see in the pictures above and to the right. I suggest leaving these on and cleaning around them, best to minimise the exposure of the bucking-spring innards to dirt.



Take care removing the larger keys (shift, space bar etc.) as they don't have the same small inner keys. Some other guides to Model M cleaning recommend leaving the Caps Lock key in place as it's apparently easy to break while removing. I popped the Caps Lock off with my fingers without breaking it, so…

Picture links to a larger version. Picture links to a larger version. Now you have your parts. I put the keycaps in to soak in hot, soapy water in the sink while I dealt with the M's main board. First give it the once-over with air duster, then wipe with a soft, damp cloth to remove the worst of the dirt. I used dampened cotton buds to clean in between the keys, then went at the really stubborn dirt with a cotton bud and a little isopropyl alcohol.

Meanwhile, back to the keys. My keys had some horrible ingrained grime, so I had to scrub each one individually to get it all off. It took forever, but those keys practically shone afterward. When you've done this, scrub the two halves of the shell of the keyboard in hot, soapy water. Be careful with the label on the back of the M — this is it's "birth certificate" and something buyers should look for if you ever want to sell your board. If you are really worried, get a bit of plastic and duct tape it over the label to keep it dry.

Leave your keys and halves of the shell to dry on newspaper ( finally , I find a use for the Grauniad travel section), and do something useful with the time. Maybe start that Web page about your keyboard?

Reassemble in reverse order. All clean! (Links to a larger version.) By now you have a nice, clean Model M restored to pristine condition — stop a minute to admire your handywork. :) Sadly I wasn't able to get all of the dirt out from around the edges of the IBM logo, and it doesn't seem to be removeable. Any suggestions? With occasional cleaning, and barring lump-hammer attack, a Model M will last decades. in fact the only addition I see being useful in years to come is a dongle to convert a Model M to USB, for when all motherboards have gone 'legacy free' (feh). I'm sure you've been waiting for this bit, so onwards to the cheesecake photos of the clean M: These pictures link to larger versions

Links to more Model M pages