Secret Fork

For the Argus Leader

Just like Country Music Hall of Fame member Tom T. Hall and Justice Brett Kavanuagh, I like beer. And it’s one heck of a time to like beer here in Soo Foo, because there is a proverbial ocean of it available.

When discussing local beer, Fernson probably comes to mind fairly quickly. There is no denying the brewery established itself as a major force in the local, if not regional, craft beer market. It helps that they produce enough of their core beers such as funky Farmhouse Ale, the mild Lion’s Paw lager, smooth Wagonplane Porter, lip-smacking sour Curio and the annual Zoo Brew to be available on taps all over town and in cans at local retailers. If you enjoy brews with different flavors and nuances than what you normally experience with an ice cold macrobrew, chances are you are familiar with Fernson.

But I’m here to tell you: you’ve got to visit the taprooms, because at any given time Fernson will have some sort of mad-scientist concoctions available on a limited basis. These are called the “Seed Series” beers. I’m talking about things like hazy IPAs spiked with all sorts of artisanal hops. Or, beers incorporating milk sugars and conditioned on exotic ingredients like vanilla beans and guava. Or, how about a sour accented with citrus puree? For those of you crinkling your noses, these crazy-sounding prototypes taste like beer, but they are definitely nuanced. For those of you who are intrigued, you have to get these special beers when you can.

And, I definitely recommend getting them downtown at the taproom at 12th and Phillips. I can explain why in one word: food. More specifically: good food from chef Ryan Tracy of Bro’s fame. Overall, the food and beer combo is out of the park and makes for a very fun experience in DTSF.

The space at 334 N. Phillips Ave. always struck me as a bit wonky because the footprint there today covers what feels like two conjoined buildings. Various eateries have occupied that address since Tina Kuehn opened Kristina’s way back when. I don’t recall exactly when the space immediately to the north was added. Maybe it was always there. I know it always felt like an afterthought and made for an odd vibe for a restaurant. But for Fernson, it works. The space has been tidied up and is more of a bar/hangout than a sit-down restaurant. The times I have visited, business has been brisk with all sorts of people enjoying a beer or two and a bite, or playing a board game. The generous patio space is a definite bonus, especially on one of the perfect evenings we’ve been enjoying lately.

The menu is comprised of roughly 11 dishes. These aren’t exactly entrees and they aren’t merely appetizers, but they could be either. I’ll get to the details in a moment. Each offering is generally available as a single item, or multiple pieces for sharing with a group. I refuse to refer to this concept as tapas. Tapas are tapas, and we don’t have tapas in Sioux Falls. (Something I wish someone would remedy. Soon.) I would call this scalable small plates that make for ideal accompaniments to the aforementioned beer, a light meal before or after a show at the Pavilion or concert at the Levitt, or potentially dinner. It’s up to you.

We recently sent a strike force in to attack the menu, because that’s what we do. The reports are extremely favorable. Here are some notes and highlights:

Chislic. Had enough chislic yet? Personally, I’m getting close. But this was lamb, so it was a must-do. The skewered and grilled chunks of lamb were very tender and well-seasoned. It almost transported me to Meridian Corner, but not quite. The kicker, though, is the spicy mustard on the side for dipping. By “spicy” I mean mustard similar to the stuff you get at Chinese restaurants. You know, the kind that makes you feel like the fumes are stripping the lining out of your nasal passages. Call me a mustard masochist; the five bucks was worth it just for the mustard.

Taproom Fries. Hold the duck fat. These fries are proof you don’t need it to make a hot, tasty, skinny fry. Nothing complicated here. Just skinny, fresh potatoes, properly fried (probably twice), and seasoned up with salt and black pepper for a little bite. Well worth every. Single. Carb.

Shishito Peppers. Why these aren’t more widely available around this town absolutely baffles me. Shishitos are small, generally mild chili peppers that are pan fried and blistered, and served with some salt and lime. They are slightly earthy and utterly tasty. If you want to try them with a crazy good dipping sauce, you have to head to Wiley’s.

Banh Mi Dog. I like a hot dog about once a year, because most of the ones I seem to get ahold of frankly suck. So, I almost didn’t pull the trigger on this fat dog loaded up with jalapenos, pickled carrots and radishes, cilantro and “yum yum” sauce. That would have been a major mistake. The spicy, tangy, crunchy, sour of the vegetables and creaminess of the sauce were so good, I’d eat them on a chunk of truck tire. But, as a bonus, the hot dog itself was tasty. This was easily our favorite bite of the evening.

Fried Chicken. Just like with the hot dog, put your preconceived notions of greasy breading or chicken strips aside. This is a boneless chicken thigh (one of the secret weapons of the culinary world IMHO) that has been pounded or cut thin and then lightly breaded up and fried so clean and crisp that it nearly shatters when you bite into it. Dip it into the mayonnaise on the side and enjoy a bite of more of the pickled vegetables to cut the richness.

Pork Belly Taco. Pork belly is a phenomenal ingredient and Ryan Tracy knows how to make it sing like an operatic soprano. Remember the Bro’s pork belly glazed with Dr. Pepper? Sniff! Me, too! Unfortunately, too many people are abusing this great ingredient these days. In this taco, the belly is crispy and accented with mild cheese, pickled peppers for brightness and then spiked up with chimichurri. Good stuff.

If you like food and beer, especially together in fun settings, you’re probably going to love Fernson’s downtown location. It’s a great addition to the ever-expanding DTSF scene.