The surprise extends to the texture of the crabcake, which Thain sets with Saltine binder and then refolds with meat again and again to get the perfect mix of crab and cake. Fried shrimp are lightly crisped, the dry-packed U10 scallops a rebuke to other scallops. No item on among the voluminous pounds of meat on the fried seafood sampler needs sauce, but each is somehow made better by the addition of Thain's self-devised Barrier Island Sauce, made with Duke's mayo, a mix of vegetables and a hint of cayenne.