BHUBANESWAR: As Odisha seeks the Geographical Indication (GI) tag for one of its most popular syrupy “inventions“, the delectable rasagulla has found itself at the centre of a debate over its place of origin.The debate has gained momentum this year at the time of the closing of the Nabakalebara, or the event that marks the soul transformation of the holy trinity of Puri. On Thursday , more than 15 quintals of rasagullas were offered to Laxmi, consort of Jagannath, as part of Niladri Bije, a ceremony that marks the end of Nabakalebara Rath Yatra.

Jagannath Temple scholars say the offering of rasagullas began with the establishment of Odisha's most revered temple in the 12th century . This is contrary to popular belief that rasagulla originated in Bengal in the middle of the 19th century .

According to legend, Jagannath on Niladri Bije offers rasagulla to appease his wife, who is upset that he goes on a nine-day sojourn -the Rath Yatra -without her consent.An angry Laxmi locks the Jai Vijay Dwar, one of the many gates to the temple. To win her over, Jagannath offers rasagullas to Laxmi, who has a sweet tooth. “Rasagulla has been part of the Rath Yatra rituals ever since the Jagannath temple came into existence in the 12th century ,“ said Laxmidhar Pujapanda, the public relations officer of the temple.

Weeks before this year's Rath Yatra, Odisha initiated a move to get GI status for the rasagulla made in Pahala near Bhubaneswar. “We are trying to protect the distinctive identity of the Pahala rasagulla,“ said Panchanan Das, secretary of Odisha's micro, small and medium enterprises department. Surya Narayan Rath Sharma, a researcher associated with the Jagannath Temple, too, said: “The rasagulla originated in Puri over 1,500 years ago. It is offered to gods on Niladri Bije every year.“

Most food historians in West Bengal believe that the rasagulla was invented in 1868 by Nobin Chandra Das, who later founded iconic sweetmeat chain KC Das.

Animikh Roy , great-greatgrandson of Nobin Chandra Das, said: “ As Odisha has taken the step to get GI status for the Pahala rasagulla, we are also going forward to protect the identity of the rasagulla, which people for 150 years have identified with Bengal.“

Roy, along with historian Haripada Bhowmik, has prepared a report to be sent to Bengal chief minister Mamata Banerjee. The report says: “Lord Jagannath can never be associated to chhana-based offerings.... Historically speaking, the origin of the word `chhana' comes from the Sanskrit word `chinna' which indicated a torn, broken and fragmented milk product which was clearly an indication of spoilt milk.Hence, it was considered a blasphemy to offer sweets or anything made of `chhana' to gods.“ It added that rasagulla is not even mentioned in the bhog of Jagannath Temple.

Laxmidhar Pujapanda refused to accept the argument of Roy and Bhowmik.

“No one can deny the offering of rasagulla on Niladri Bije that began along with the establishment of the temple about 900 years ago,“ he said. “This is written in the Niladri Mahoday , an age-old scripture. It is true that rasagulla is not mentioned in the Chhappan Bhog of Lord Jagannath, but no one can ignore Niladri Bije rituals.“