1. Vaca

The dry-aged steaks are epic. The Spanish hams, legendary. The paella, delightful. And the chef is a reality-show celebrity. But the real star here might just be the wine list. 695 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa; 714-463-6060, vacarestaurant.com

2. Royal Hen

Tim Goodell is back! The chef who created Aubergine (the defunct Balboa Peninsula restaurant that used to be O.C.’s finest) has returned to Balboa, not far from where it all started, with a charming gastropub serving English/Franco/American comfort food: chicken pot pie, lobster roll, milk-braised pork shoulder, steak au poivre, steamed mussels and hand-cut fries. 311 Marine Ave., Newport Beach; 949-873-5603, theroyalhen.com

3. Restaurant Marín

Chef Noah Blöm’s fancy interpretation of an American greasy spoon takes a detour through France and is fueled entirely by wood, serving unparalleled grilled cheese sandwiches and tomato soup, plus steak frites, crabcakes, layer cakes and breakfast all day, every day, until midnight. 3321 Hyland Ave., Costa Mesa; 949-402-3974, restaurantmarin.com

4. Ootoro Sushi

This new omakase restaurant has quickly become the hottest power lunch among the heavy-hitting movers and shakers of Irvine’s financial district. Eat whatever the chef tells you to eat, even if it’s still alive. 2222 Michelson Drive, Irvine; 949-222-0688, ootorosushi.com

5. Water Grill

The fourth location of this sprawling, Los Angeles-based seafood palace replaced Scott’s across from South Coast Plaza, from the ground up. The indoor/outdoor ambiance is as stunning as some of the fish being served. The whole, wild-caught Dover sole is simply perfection, bathed in butter and filleted tableside. 3000 Bristol St., Costa Mesa; 949-208-7060, watergrill.com

6. Irenia

Rising star chef Ryan Garlitos brings Filipino cooking into the limelight in downtown Santa Ana. 400 N. Broadway, Santa Ana; 657-245-3466, ireniarestaurant.com

7. Ironwood

This Laguna Hills offshoot of San Clemente’s Vine is where chef Jared Cook serves great chicken schnitzel, pomegranate-glazed pork and zinfandel-braised lamb. 25250 La Paz Road, Laguna Hills; 949-446-8772, ironwoodlaguna hills.com

8. Farmhouse at Roger’s Gardens

Bank on this place being a difficult reservation for a while to come, thanks to chef Rich Mead’s farm-fresh kale salads, house-cured salmon and steak frites, served alfresco overlooking the manicured grounds of luxury nursery Roger’s Gardens. 2301 San Joaquin Hills Road, Corona del Mar; 949-640-1415, farmhouserg.com

9. Craft House

Chef Blake Mellgren does something magical with fried chicken and biscuits. He lights fire to the Caesar salad and makes pappardelle Bolognese like an old Italian nonna. Bring earplugs, and save room for banana bread. 34094 Pacific Coast Highway, Dana Point; 949-481-7734, eatatcrafthouse.com

10. LSXO

LSXO is a “secret” restaurant inside Blue Gold at Pacific City where chef/owner Tin Vuong serves a modern, upscale riff on Vietnamese imperial rolls, nem nuong, papaya salad and lamb curry noodles. Stellar cocktails, too. Pacific City, 21016 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach; 714-374-0038, dinebluegold.com

Contact the writer: bajohnson@scng.com or Instagram @bradajohnson