I started the pipe layout by using a stud sensor to locate and mark the stud locations in my wall. Then I used a chalk line to snap vertical indications of the studs on my wall so that I wouldn't have to keep reaching for the stud sensor. Chalk is much easier to wash off the wall than pencil FYI.



The basic building block of the framing system can be seen in picture #3. It comprises of a flange, a 3 way tee, an elbow, a 1-1/2" pipe section, and a 6" pipe section. The vertical pipes and couplings can be added in areas as desired, but are not required since the 3 way tee and elbow provide a level surface for the shelves to rest on.



Start by attaching the lowest section to the wall first. Drill and screw the flange to the wall, making sure to hit a stud. Depending on the flange screw hole pattern and width of your studs you may only be able to put 2 of the 4 screws into the studs, but that is sufficient. If a stud is not available then you'll want to use some type of drywall anchoring system. If you go that route be careful to note the manufacturer's weight recommendations and compare them against the estimated amount of weight you'll be putting on your finished shelf.



Once the first support is attached to the wall a level can be used to determine the location of the next support. You'll want a pair of helping hands during this step (one person holds the level while the other moves the shelf support). Note that it is important to be as precise as possible to avoid compounding inaccuracies as you work up the wall, but one huge benefit to these pipe systems is that everything is threaded and can therefore be adjusted to remove small measurement inaccuracies.



Continue in this manner, working your way up the wall and referring to your original design as necessary. This is the most fun part of the build. Be creative and don't be scared to deviate from your original plan if something looks better than what you had on paper. Hit studs, make sure the pipe support on one section is level with the corresponding pipe support of other sections, and experiment with all the pipe fittings to see what looks good and works best in the space.



Once the full support system has been built up on the wall, the final step before removing it from the wall for painting is to take measurements for the wood shelves. First, visualize where the wood shelves will sit on the supports and how long the boards should be. Take shelf length measurements using the pipe framework as a guideline. Next, measure distances between the vertical pipe locations that will pass through the shelves for future reference on where to drill holes in the boards. Be sure to measure from pipe center to pipe center. Another set of hands is convenient for this step.



After all shelf lengths and hole locations have been recorded, the pipe support system can be removed from the wall for painting.