It has been 25 years since the inception of cult-favourite Japanese label UNDERCOVER and for the special occasion, it brought back to life a selection of its “greatest” pieces but with a twist in using new fabric constructions. Aptly titled, “THE GREATEST,” we find items that have since received “grail” status and were extremely sought-after, which are now back through its latest 2016 spring/summer collection. Despite remaining relatively under-the-radar until recent years, UNDERCOVER has produced some of the most spectacular collections and not to mention unique household items such as its hamburger lamp. It is of little surprise Nike chose Jun Takahashi to create the GYAKUSOU line of athletic-meets-fashion wear and UNDERCOVER has since collaborated with the likes of Supreme, as well as fast-fashion conglomerates such as UNIQLO.

Jun Takahashi’s affinity for unique graphic designs that take a nod to punk and mod subcultures has taken UNDERCOVER from the runway to the upper echelon of streetwear brands. Take a look at some of the most prestigious retailers such as END., MR PORTER, Très Bien and you’ll no doubt find the label’s provocative cuts and prints.

With such an illustrious history, we take a look back at some of the pieces from the past and how they have been brought back to life in its special 2016 spring/summer collection.

2013 Spring/Summer “Collage”

Offering everything from lightweight outerwear, unstructured blazers and both tonal and printed button-downs to slim trousers, the 2013 spring/summer collection exudes the casual streetwear-infused menswear vibe that has found it’s way into the celebrated Japanese label’s collections.

2012 Fall/Winter “PSYCHO COLOR”

The aptly titled “PSYCHO COLOR” collection in 2012 offered more color than we usually expected from the Japanese designer. It featured a diverse mix of materials, colors and silhouettes. Most notably, the “Geräusch” jacket, which means noise in German, was worn by none other than Frank Ocean during the 2013 Brit Awards.

2012 Fall/Winter “OPENSTRINGS”

Throughout most of Takahashi’s collections, we find strong influences of British Punk Rock and it should be of little surprise as he was initially inspired by The Sex Pistols. He was even told he had an uncanny resemblance to lead singer Johnny Rotten. Minimal shirts with nihilist undertones and washed out motifs brought to life the musical themes that has such a profound effect on Takahashi.

2004 Fall/Winter “BUT BEAUTIFUL”

The 2004 fall/winter collection was given birth by inspiration from Patti Smith’s androgynous, ’70s New Wave style. Slouchy shirts, military sensibilities and neck scarves were displayed to create an aesthetic that provided a resurgence to the golden era of punk and British mod subcultures.

2003 Spring/Summer “SCAB”

For its Paris debut in 2003, the lineup focused on heavily deconstructed and patched up DIY techniques. Although many may think the collection was largely made up of pieces that anyone could construct in the sanctity of their own home, the attention was in the details. Intricacies in embroidery and patterns provided a stark juxtaposition to the somewhat ragged appearance.