In early 2012, Nescafé executives were searching for a strategy to make instant coffee catch on with more Chinese consumers. They settled on a risky idea: Han Han, the best-selling novelist and blogger who had risen to fame mocking China’s corrupt socialist system, would be the face of the brand in the world’s largest market. In a 30-second advertisement, Mr. Han exhorts viewers to “Live out your boldness!” He zips around on a motorcycle and cheers on a paraplegic athlete before settling down with a bright red mug of instant coffee.

Advertising...