None of these products contain alkaline soap, foaming surfactants, drying alcohol, fragrance (irritant and allergen) or essential oils; penetration enhancers such as propylene glycol are minimised. They are not the most basic products on the UK high street, instead they have been selected for including calming, anti-inflammatory or antioxidant actives. Where possible products are under £10 or a large pack size; several are frequently on offer for under £5.

There is very limited research for ANY cosmetic active in rosacea: most studies are very small, of short duration or funded by the manufacturer of a specific product. The abstracts or articles linked to are to show why that active may be worth experimenting with, they are not intended as ‘proof’ that a cosmetic will improve the symptoms of rosacea.

This routine is a work-in-progress, so as I find new research or new products it will be updated. We are our own lab rats here. It is strongly recommended to patch test and introduce new products one at a time, beginning with ‘safer bets’ and working up to those with more active ingredients as skin becomes less reactive.

Superdrug B. Clean Melting Gel Cleanser, £7 for 125ml

Ingredients: “Light mineral oil, glycerin, caprylic/ capric triglyceride, isohexadecane, water, cyclopentasiloxane, sucrose laurate, cyclohexasiloxane, sucrose palmitate, phenoxyethanol, caprylhydroxamic acid, methylpropanediol.”

Regularly on offer at half price.

After melting down to oil with body heat this easily lifts make up and sunscreen, emulsifies well with warm water to rinse completely clean with hands or a cloth. For those with concurrent conditions, mineral oil cannot support the microbes implicated in acne vulgaris or seborrhoeic dermatitis. The sugar-based emulsifier system (Sucragel) has hydrating properties.

Alternative for those who want a ‘lipid-free cleanser’ or who find tap water irritating: Nivea Sensitive 3-in-1 Micellar Cleansing Water. Regularly on offer at half price. Includes panthenol, glyceryl glucoside and glycerin; the glycols are way down the ingredients list. Sites say this is pH neutral but tested at pH 6.

(Optional) Natural cotton muslin cloths, £8 for 10

“These cloths have NO optical dyeing agents in the fabric. ODA’s can sometimes have caustic qualities which can cause skin irritation.” UK eBay seller stockline17

For rosaceans whose skin can tolerate light physical exfoliation or who do not want the additional ingredients of chemical exfoliation. These are softer textured than bright white muslin cloths.

Alternative for those using a micellar cleanser or a toner: Cosrx lint-free cotton pads or MUJI unbleached cotton pads.

(Optional) Simple Kind to Skin Soothing Toner, £3 for 200ml

Ingredients: “Water, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate [sorbitol], panthenol, niacinamide, chamomile flower extract, witch hazel, allantoin, sodium PCA, propylene glycol, pantolactone, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, citric acid, methylparaben, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, butylparaben, ethylparaben, isobutylparaben, propylparaben.”

Regularly on offer at half price. Toners are by no means essential but this has some solid ingredients – panthenol, niacinamide, chamomile, allantoin, sodium PCA – for those who prefer to use one. 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol is a formaldehyde-releasing preservative so may be problematic for a minority of those with concurrent contact dermatitis.

Alternatives for those who want fewer ingredients or whose skin reacts to parabens: German chamomile hydrosol, calendula hydrosol or tea tree hydrosol. All should have weak antimicrobial and anti inflammatory properties. If your skin does not tolerate cotton pads you might apply with a spray bottle. You will need to add a broad spectrum preservative.

Superdrug Simply Pure Hydrating Serum, £2.70 for 50ml

Ingredients: “Water, caprylic/ capric triglyceride, glycereth-26, polysorbate 60, glycerin, propylene glycol, Indian frankincense, dipropylene glycol, allantoin, sodium PCA, pentylene glycol, sodium lactate, lactic acid, serine, urea, sorbitol, sodium chloride, hyaluronic acid, sodium lauroyl lactylate, ceramide 3, ceramide 6 II, ceramide 1, phytosphingosine, cholesterol, carbomer, xanthan gum, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerin, sodium hydroxide, acrylates/ C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, disodium EDTA.”

Regularly on offer.

Wall-to-wall actives between the 24 hour moisturising complex with natural moisturising factors (NMFs) and the ceramide complex. The biggest ‘crime’ of this product is the glycols which are penetration enhancers, but this can be forgiven with so many ingredients present that support skin barrier function.

This serum layers well under a moisturising sunscreen. Alternative for those who want a serum and moisturiser in one: CeraVe Facial Moisturising Lotion PM (4% niacinamide, ceramide complex), available at Amazon.

Prescription only: Azelaic acid gel, 15% (Finacea)

Active substance: “Azelaic acid, 15%“

Other ingredients: “Lecithin, medium chain triglycerides, polysorbate 80, propylene glycol, carbomer 980, sodium hydroxide, disodium EDTA, water, benzoic acid (E210).”

Azelaic acid is a potent anti-inflammatory (papulopustular rosacea) and antioxidant (erythematotelangiectatic rosacea). It may be possible to reduce irritation – itching or stinging – by layering a lightweight ceramide product underneath as per the published research.

Cosmetic alternative at 10%: Paula’s Choice CLEAR Daily Skin Clearing Treatment with azelaic acid, salicylic acid, licorice, allantoin and bisabolol. This product is not available in North America.

Prescription alternative: metronidazole gel or cream, 0.75% (various brands).

Sunscreen

Despite being the cornerstone of self care in rosacea, sunscreen is by far the hardest category. There are no SPF 30+ all mineral sunscreens without alcohol and fragrance on the UK high street, not even at Holland & Barrett! So instead three less-than-satisfactory options

Freederm Daily Complex, £7 for 50ml

Ingredients: “Water, glycerin, niacinamide, shea butter, sodium polyacrylate, cyclopentasiloxane, cetearyl isononanoate, allantoin, phenoxyethanol, isohexadecane, dimethicone crosspolymer, panthenol, ethylhexyl glycerin.”

Regularly on offer at half price. For use as a night cream: short ingredients list yet boasts four active ingredients (glycerin, niacinamide, allantoin, panthenol). Cyclopentasiloxane is a volatile silicone, it evaporates off. Airless pump bottle protects the ingredients without loads of preservatives.

Alternative for those who want something lighter textured: First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Lotion (0.5% colloidal oatmeal, allantoin, feverfew, white tea, licorice, ceramide 3). Pricey but a large 230ml pack size; available at Amazon.

The challenge for bloggers, vloggers and other readers is to propose a routine for any dermatological condition that similarly avoids ingredients that are known to damage the skin barrier or that are common triggers for that condition. Products from the country of your choice. Leave a reply linking to wherever you post your challenge routine!

To be continued ….