Davent's suggestion of parchment paper is an excellent one. It'll do the same job I was recommending teflon for, at a fraction of the cost. It's also a lot easier to find.



Although photo paper can work great, the chief stumbling block with it seems to be being able to tell when it's "done". Press-n-peel has the advantage of being thin enough that when the toner has properly adhered to the copper the acetate backing sags enough that you can see a complete detailed outline of the pattern. Photo paper is too thick to see such a "bas relief", though after a while one gets the hang of it.



As some have noted regularly on this forum, glossy magazine paper can also work quite well, and has the advantage of being much thinner than photo paper (which is intended to produce images you can pick up and hold in your hand). Like photo paper, glossy magazine paper is a paper fibre backing with an emulsion coating; the difference being that photo paper has no colouring in the emulsion (it awaits your image of choice) while magazines already have an image and accompanying pigments embedded in the emulsion layer. That pre-colouring has no bearing on its ability to hold and transfer toner, though.



The chief shortcoming of magazine paper is that it has an emulsion layer on both sides (the emulsion can melt and stick to the heat source on the side where heat is applied), and that whatever image is on the back side can make it difficult to see the "bas relief" outline of the toner pattern the way you can with the solid-colour PnP. The first shortcoming can be addressed by using the parchment paper as davent suggests. The second shortcoming can, for the most part, be addressed by having suitable lighting and holding up the board to the light at a suitable angle for seeing whether the pattern has been affixed to the board.