How To Ensure A Proper Fit

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Sometimes you slip on that new shirt and it just doesn't feel right. But what is it? Is it the sleeve length? The collar? The way it looks with a blazer? Well, the confusion ends today.

I've devised the following rules and tips for how basic clothing items should fit your body. And while what you wear and how you wear it changes over time, these tips are timeless. After all, getting clothes to feel right goes hand in hand with getting clothes to look right.

button-down shirts

Sleeves & cuffs

Dress shirts tend to shrink after a few washings, so before buying and getting a shirt tailored, make sure the sleeve is slightly longer in order to counteract any eventual shrinkage.

So what's the right length when it comes to shirt sleeves? They should cover your wrist and reach the beginning of your thumbs.

As well, your cuffs should be tight enough to prevent them from slipping down your wrist.

If you opt to leave your button-down shirt untucked, it should hang just above your pants zipper (at back pocket level).

If you opt to leave your button-down shirt untucked, it should hang just above your pants zipper (at back pocket level). When wearing a jacket and extending your arms, the sleeves should land between a half-inch and one inch past the jacket. Anything longer is cause for tailoring or buying a smaller shirt.

Collars & shirts

If the shirt's seams meet at the shoulder, you know it fits quite well.

Your forefinger should be able to fit in between your collar and your neck when the shirt is buttoned to the top.

The collar's tips and outer edge should be covered by your blazer or suit jacket's lapels. To ensure that this happens, always fit your dress shirts and button-downs before fitting your jackets and blazers.



blazers



The blazer or jacket's sleeve should rest at your thumb knuckle when your arm is extended, and the blazer or jacket should cover your backside. The blazer or jacket's sleeve should rest at your thumb knuckle when your arm is extended, and the blazer or jacket should cover your backside.

The blazer/jacket's collar should leave about a half- inch of your dress shirt's collar visible.

If you plan on wearing your sports jacket frequently over sweaters, bring a thin or regular knit sweater with you when trying on or tailoring the blazer or suit jacket.



pants

Trousers

Determining whether you have the right fit when it comes to slacks is fairly simple. Try them on without shoes; they should just touch the floor. With shoes on, the back part of your pants should barely touch the ground (one rule of thumb is that pants should break at about 1/3 of the way down the shoe). And if you need one more sign that your slacks might not fit well, remember that your socks should not show when you walk.

When belting slacks, don't pull too tight, or you risk bunching up the fabric around your midsection. This will make your gut appear larger than it is.

If you're hemming your pants at the waist, place them below your belly button.

If you're hemming your pants at the waist, place them below your belly button. And of course, remember that slacks — like shirts — usually shrink when you wash them. Buy (or have a tailor create) pants just a shade longer than what you actually need.



Make sure your jeans, ties, overcoats, and belts look just right...

