Kate Reid, the founder of Melbourne’s Lune Croissanterie, studied aerospace engineering and spent several years working for a Formula One racing team before apprenticing at the famed Paris boulangerie Du Pain et des Idees. Her background in precision machines might help explain why she recently moved production of her ethereal, exceptionally flaky pastries to a climate-controlled glass cube that looks straight out of a James Bond film, inside a brick warehouse in the Fitzroy section of the city. Here, Reid and her brother Cameron hand-laminate, shape, proof and bake as many croissants, kouign-ammans and “cruffins” as their obsessive devotion to the craft will allow — about 3,000 a week, sold Thursday through Sunday.

At her tiny former location, you had to camp out at dawn to get your fix; at the new place, it’s generally safe to show up by noon. Or, you can sign up for a 90-minute degustation at the Lune Lab. For about $35 you get three croissants — classic, savory, sweet — plus all the flat whites you can drink. If you’ve made it this far, unorthodox creations such as the MP3, baked with pulled pork, queso fresco, manchego and chipotle tomato jam, and topped with a pickled pepper — a ham-and-cheese croissant for the adventurous — are not to be missed. But the classic beurre, with its holy balance of buttery heft and feathery flake, may be the finest you will find anywhere in the world, and alone worth a trip across the dateline.