Old-fashioned menu items still at refreshed Green Derby

The Green Derby in Newport got new owners earlier this year. They've taken what has to be called a venerable institution and have been making modernizations. It's been freshened up and de-smoked, and lots of bourbon, scotch and beer added.

But it's still a traditional kind of place. And when I stopped in for a quick dinner before a show in Newport, I was drawn to one of the more old-fashioned entree choices.

Every once in a while, I just want a plate of fried chicken livers. Not everyone likes these, but you can think of them as pate with a crust. With smashed redskin potatoes and white gravy, plus maybe a little more gravy to dip the livers in. And topped with cooked-down onions. Though a more new-fashioned touch ruined it a little: I used my phone to look up how much cholesterol is in livers. Something to enjoy from only from time to time. There's now a delicious burgoo on the menu, and the halibut sandwich and shredded lettuce with hot bacon dressing are still there.

846 York St., Newport, 859-431-8740 www.greenderbykentucky.com