Craving wild mushrooms? My compromise is to make a stew using mostly cultivated mushrooms. But I give them a boost of wild flavor in a couple of ways. The first is to make an intense, flavorful broth with a handful of dried porcini. The other is to actually buy some wild mushrooms. A scant half-pound of chanterelles, even if pricey, won’t break the bank. The rest of the rustic stew (call it a ragout if you wish) is made of shiitake, cremini and oyster mushrooms. As it simmers, this saucy, herbaceous mushroom stew gains depth and character. Spooned over pasta or nestled up to a soft mound of polenta, it evokes the comfort of home and the primal in each bite.

Featured in: A Stew In Touch With Its Wild Side.