Ray Pinpillage · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180 Mar 22, 2013 · West Egg Warning Warning Warning!!! This is only my thoughts and experiences. I am a nameless faceless nobody on the internet and you should not take anything I've posted here or anywhere else as gospel, scripture, or science. I am not giving you advice, please follow all manufacturer's instructions before using any gear mentioned in this thread or in general. If you are uncertain or uncomfortable please consult the instructions, a doctor, a attorney, and a rabbi. Should you ingest any of the following information, do not induce vomiting but go straight to an emergency room.



Edelrid Mega Jul:



I picked up a Mega Jul this morning and thought I'd post some thoughts and pictures. I'll update this with some more feed back as I use it.



Initial thoughts:



The Mega Jul is small, very small actually. If you've used a Mammut Smart or Alpine Smart the Mega Jul is probably 1/3 the size and weighs 2.5 ounces. The finish of the Mega Jul is pretty raw compared to a Reverso 3/4 or ATC-G.



As far as function, the Mega Jul feeds rope in and out with almost zero restriction. The Alpine Smart can be finicky with larger ropes requiring a harder pull, that is not the case with the Mega Jul. I ran a fuzzy 10.5, 9.5, and new'ish 9.8 through the Jul and there was no real difference. I haven't rapped with the Mega Jul yet but I did set up a rope to hang from, and when using a caribiner as the instructions show, releasing the device is pretty smooth.



Also worth noting is that the Mega Jul seems less sensitive to caribiner selection. Using a Metolius Element with the Alpine Smart creates a lot of focused wear and is kind of a PITA to connect. The Mega Jul sets up just like a traditional tuber.



Edelrid Mega Jul



redpointclimbing.com/shop/b…



I paid retail for the belay device and don't work for any companies mentioned.



Update:



Climbed a few pitches on the Mega Jul here is how it handles and stacks up against the Mammut Alpine Smart:



As I mentioned, feeding the rope in and out is very easy. My wife doesn't care for the Smart because it has more drag than her ATC and locks up too easily. I don't notice the drag on the Smart but I did notice the Mega Jul needs a hand on the brake to lock when the Smart will just lock up. Your hand should be on the rope anyway but it's still a consideration.



Mega Jul belaying from the harness.



IMO, one of the best features of the Smart is how easily it is to pull in rope belaying a second/third off the anchor. Rope size does not matter unlike a Reverso 3 or ATC-G.



Alpine Smart belaying from anchor.



The Mega Jul isn't bad belaying from an anchor. Rope size does matter though, the 10.5 I ran through it had a lot of drag. The 9.8 I tried is pretty new with just a handful of pitches and worked great. Still more drag than the Alpine Smart but less than a Reverso 3.



Mega Jul belaying from anchor.



Rapelling in auto-block mode took a little getting used to. Still easier than a Alpine Smart but quirky none the less. I started with a prusik back up to take the picture but it was a pain in the ass so after the photo I removed it. Using a caribiner as a handle and one hand on the brake strands gives a pretty effortless rap. The prusic isn't necessary. For short raps or low angle raps using the Mega Jul as a tuber is easier.

I didn't take a pictures but I rap'd the last two pitches to the ground using it as a tuber. There is less friction than an ATC so you need to be more careful but it is faster than using the auto-block on low angle terrain. On a two rope overhang rap like Monkey-Face the auto-block is ideal.

The Megal Jul does not seem to conduct heat. The device was cold while the caribiner was hot. I'm sure the internal surfaces of the device were hot but nothing from the outside.



Mega Jul rap in auto-block. Edelrid Mega Jul:I picked up a Mega Jul this morning and thought I'd post some thoughts and pictures. I'll update this with some more feed back as I use it.Initial thoughts:The Mega Jul is small, very small actually. If you've used a Mammut Smart or Alpine Smart the Mega Jul is probably 1/3 the size and weighs 2.5 ounces. The finish of the Mega Jul is pretty raw compared to a Reverso 3/4 or ATC-G.As far as function, the Mega Jul feeds rope in and out with almost zero restriction. The Alpine Smart can be finicky with larger ropes requiring a harder pull, that is not the case with the Mega Jul. I ran a fuzzy 10.5, 9.5, and new'ish 9.8 through the Jul and there was no real difference. I haven't rapped with the Mega Jul yet but I did set up a rope to hang from, and when using a caribiner as the instructions show, releasing the device is pretty smooth.Also worth noting is that the Mega Jul seems less sensitive to caribiner selection. Using a Metolius Element with the Alpine Smart creates a lot of focused wear and is kind of a PITA to connect. The Mega Jul sets up just like a traditional tuber.I paid retail for the belay device and don't work for any companies mentioned.Update:Climbed a few pitches on the Mega Jul here is how it handles and stacks up against the Mammut Alpine Smart:As I mentioned, feeding the rope in and out is very easy. My wife doesn't care for the Smart because it has more drag than her ATC and locks up too easily. I don't notice the drag on the Smart but I did notice the Mega Jul needs a hand on the brake to lock when the Smart will just lock up. Your hand should be on the rope anyway but it's still a consideration.IMO, one of the best features of the Smart is how easily it is to pull in rope belaying a second/third off the anchor. Rope size does not matter unlike a Reverso 3 or ATC-G.The Mega Jul isn't bad belaying from an anchor. Rope size does matter though, the 10.5 I ran through it had a lot of drag. The 9.8 I tried is pretty new with just a handful of pitches and worked great. Still more drag than the Alpine Smart but less than a Reverso 3.Rapelling in auto-block mode took a little getting used to. Still easier than a Alpine Smart but quirky none the less. I started with a prusik back up to take the picture but it was a pain in the ass so after the photo I removed it. Using a caribiner as a handle and one hand on the brake strands gives a pretty effortless rap. The prusic isn't necessary. For short raps or low angle raps using the Mega Jul as a tuber is easier.I didn't take a pictures but I rap'd the last two pitches to the ground using it as a tuber. There is less friction than an ATC so you need to be more careful but it is faster than using the auto-block on low angle terrain. On a two rope overhang rap like Monkey-Face the auto-block is ideal.The Megal Jul does not seem to conduct heat. The device was cold while the caribiner was hot. I'm sure the internal surfaces of the device were hot but nothing from the outside.