1. Cut an outdoor electrical cord(10 amp) down to 6 feet and keep the plug end. You don't want it too long.

2. Strip the wires and connect to the element wires coming out the back of the kiln. My element came with metal connectors and ceramic sleeves. The sleeves are optional. I have since used small bolts to attach the power. This separates the terminal wires from the copper wires of your power cord and the nuts and bolts act as a heat sink to keep your wires from getting too hot

3. You need to ground this by attaching the green wire to the frame. I just found a small metal screw and attached it to the frame.

4.

**update 1/5/2017: A lot of people have asked me about my green controller. This was from an old kiln and has no numbers or markings on it. I have done some research on the type of controller you will want. They are called stand alone ICS kiln controllers. I have found one at Sundanceglass.com (pic 2 and 3) and have ordered one for myself as a backup for my controller. This is an infinity switch which will turn the power off and on depending on the setting you use and will allow you to obtain an even temperature. Use a thermocouple and pyrometer to monitor your heat and then you will know what setting works for the temperature you are trying to reach. There are some people in the comments that have used PID controllers and they have Instructables on how to wire them up to your kiln. I think cost wise, it is about the same to order an ICS controller or a PID controller.

**Safety tip--Do Not plug this directly to a wall outlet. Also, do not touch the element wires when the kiln is on.



5. I ran a piece of flat iron across the back wall of the kiln so that the back wall has more stability. This is not essential. When I first made my kiln, the squeeze of the frame held the back wall in fine.