The infamous chain stitch. What’s all the fuss about? Why do some make such a big deal out of it while others could care less? Unfortunately, there is no cookie cutter answer here. The easiest way to go through the advantages and disadvantages of chain stitching and lock stitching is probably to do just that in point form.

Chain Stitch

Advantages of the Chainstitch

More authentic and original

Results in nicer fading pattern around denim bottoms

Better “roping” effects (i.e. twisted, rope-like look at denim bottoms)

Disadvantages of the Chainstitch

Difficult to have done ( since chain stitching must be done on Union Special machine since chain stitching can only be done on a special sewing machine)

since chain stitching can only be done on a special sewing machine) Tends to unravel

Only noticeable on the inside (i.e. after you cuff)

Other (if you decide to Chain Stitch)

Ensure you have done post soaking

Lock Stitch

Advantages of the Lock Stitch

Stronger stitch

Much cheaper

More accessible of a service

Disadvantages of the Lock Stitch