Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco, you arrive in Marin even before landing on solid ground. The county line hangs above the water’s edge, which is fitting, since the county itself feels suspended — ethereal, privileged, a place apart from the rest of the Bay Area. Fearing the perils of suburban sprawl, Marin invested early and often in conservation. Outside of a handful of small cities (San Rafael and Novato the largest among them), Marin is a surprisingly rural landscape of cattle ranches, rolling hills, redwood groves, houseboat communities and roadhouses. Among the wealthiest counties in the country, Marin’s affluence is apparent in towns like Mill Valley. But Marin, one of the state’s smallest counties, also has small towns, like Bolinas and Fairfax, that retain an endearing Northern California eccentricity.

Friday

3 p.m.

1. Past and Present

Housed in a Victorian on a hillside in old San Rafael, the Marin History Museum (1125 B Street, San Rafael; marinhistory.org) has an intriguing collection of local mementos and exhibitions about county icons and institutions like the Golden Gate Bridge or the notorious San Quentin Prison. Around the corner, the Falkirk Cultural Center (1408 Mission Avenue, San Rafael; falkirkculturalcenter.org) is a magnificent Queen Anne mansion with floor-to-ceiling stained-glass windows and a creaky staircase that leads to a gallery that features local artists.

5 p.m.

2. Dead and Alive

Phil Lesh of the Grateful Dead modeled Terrapin Crossroads (100 Yacht Club Drive, San Rafael; terrapincrossroads.net), which opened last spring in San Rafael’s Canal district, after Levon Helm’s Midnight Rambles in Woodstock, N.Y. On the waterfront, the music space, restaurant and bar often hosts jam sessions featuring Mr. Lesh and his friends. Tuesday through Friday happy hour (4 to 6 p.m.) has an exceptional list of Northern California draft beers for $4, half-off pizza from a flaming wood-fired oven and appetizers like the Hangtown Fry, a taco-size crepe with wilted spinach, crispy fried oysters and bacon ($11.50).

7 p.m.

3. For the Soul

Occupying an imposing lime green building in downtown San Rafael, Sol Food (901 Lincoln Avenue, San Rafael; solfoodrestaurant.com) is a bright, plant-filled space with communal tables and Puerto Rican classics like shrimp sautéed in a garlic, onion and tomato sauce, with mofongo (mashed green plantains), salad and fresh avocado (from $11.95). Sol Food serves no alcohol; wash dinner down with mango ice tea ($2.45) or Mexican Coke ($2.25). Save room for Fairfax Scoop (63 Broadway Boulevard, Fairfax), an elevator-size ice cream shop where there’s almost always a line. Try classics like mint chip and cookies-and-cream and more exotic options like vanilla honey lavender and toasted hazelnut (from $1.75 to $3.95). Open until 10 p.m.