I PLAYED with these potatoes years ago, tinkering with a distinctively Southwest combination of jalapeños, corn, black beans, chili powder and so on. I wanted a super breakfast dish that you could serve even at lunch or dinner. Somehow, though, I never got them quite to the point I wanted.

Then I flew to the West Coast. And there, sitting in front of me on the plane, was a batch of Southwest-style potatoes that were better than pretty good. It seemed time to redouble my efforts, and it all came together quickly this time, partly because I overcame a prejudice against Cheddar, an ingredient I believe is among America’s most over-used  but also clearly important to the dish’s success. Once I added that, the flavors and textures balanced beautifully, with the corn providing sweetness and crunch, the jalapeños heat, and the cheese a nice fatty richness otherwise missing.

Still, it takes patience. You have to sauté the corn until it’s browned, then remove it from the pan so it doesn’t interfere with the potatoes’ becoming crisp. Perhaps the most difficult part is leaving the potatoes alone, neither stirring nor shaking, for at least 10 minutes, so they develop a nice crust. After they release from the bottom of the pan, keep cooking them, turning only every five minutes or so, until they’re brown on all sides.

Once the potatoes are cooked, you stir in the corn, beans and spices; transfer to a baking dish; top with the cheese, and broil. It’s best served hot, but it’s still good warm or at room temperature  and it’s definitely better served at your dining table than in an airplane seat.