We said our goodbyes and, feeling both slightly extravagant and ashamed, I raced off with knees close together towards the modern and sophisticated city of Osijek, where I was the only guest in a well-equipped and comfortable hostel that had space to sleep about 30. The hostel had been set up about six months ago I was told by Boris, the owner's son. "We are still learning," he said, adding hopefully that two Australian tourists had stayed there the night before.