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Climbers make their way up toward a narrow slot on Mt. Hood known as the 'Pearly Gates,' which the author argues is a dangerous climb that may not have the respect it deserves.

(Steve Boyer/2002)

By Scott Rubey

The recent Mount Hood climbing accident ("Mt. Hood climber dies after falling near summit," May 7) has stimulated a dialogue with regard to dangerous overcrowding on the mountain's popular South Side route. On any fair-weather May weekend, several hundred climbers may be jockeying for their chance at ascending or descending the narrow slot known as the Pearly Gates, which is only wide enough for one person at a time and stands as the final barrier to reaching the summit.

Some have suggested a quota system, much like what is currently in place on Mt. St. Helens, as the logical next step toward promoting safety on Oregon's highest and most accessible peak. While this deserves further debate, I believe an equally important discussion revolves around the public's misperception of Mt. Hood's most travelled route, and how this misperception has led to such dangerous bottlenecks high on the mountain.

Tune into news coverage of a climbing accident on the South Side route, and you will probably hear discussion of an injured "hiker." You might even see a fancy graphic detailing the "trails" high on the mountain, as was the case in at least one news report following the events of May 7. In actuality, Mt. Hood by any route is a mountain climb, not a hike. Trails simply do not exist on the mountain higher than 8,500 feet.

A climber requires knowledge of specialized equipment and techniques in order to safely ascend and descend even the easiest route on this peak. False narratives of "hikers" and "trails" in terrain that includes steep ice, crevasses, rockfall and other hazards, lures climbers of dubious ability and is largely responsible for the overcrowded and unsafe conditions found most spring weekends. I was on the route the morning of May 7 and I heard more than one frightened climber remark to the unexpectedness of the terrain they encountered.

But the media is only partially responsible for this misperception. The climbing community itself is equally at fault. For decades, climbers have referred to Mt. Hood's South Side with such pejoratives as the "dog route," the "beginner's route," and the "walk-up." Twenty years ago, such labels may have been true. Mountains, however, like all things in the geological realm, change with time. The South Side has not been a "walk-up" in at least 10 years. Ridges have shifted, snow features have melted out, and climbers can now expect to find 45 degree to 55 degree ice slopes in highly exposed terrain where one misstep could lead to disaster. Yet, climbers of all abilities continue to flock to this route in record numbers. And why not, when we set such casual expectations?

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Given the marked change this route has undergone in recent years, it is time that we change the verbiage we use to describe it. If we are to get to the root of this overcrowding problem, the media and the outdoor community must begin treating Mt. Hood's South Side route with the respect it deserves.

Scott Rubey lives in Southwest Portland.