Why the Milford Track?

With the new year fast approaching, we decided to book one of the famous great walks of New Zealand – the Milford Track.

Early new years day we arrived into Queenstown (South Island). Both local and international visitors were still nursing off their hangovers from the evening before.

Swing bridge near Glade Lodge

If you’ve ever lined up in the usually long queue outside the infamous ‘Fergburger’ (very popular gourmet hamburger joint), you will know what I mean. If you haven’t, and you’re planning on visiting Queenstown, then do it. But watch out for those pesky seagulls along the waterfront – they always seem to know when there’s a free feed around.

View from the Mackinnon pass

At the track briefing the night before, we formally introduced ourselves to our fellow hikers – all 49 of us. The group comprised mostly Americans and Aussies with a couple of Kiwis thrown in for good measure. One of whom was 79 years old and in remarkable great shape for his age.

Looking up towards Mackinnon Pass

Setting up for success

One of the key successes and enjoyment of any adventure is how you get along with your fellow hikers and guides (plus the local wildlife and weather). As it turned out, it was a fantastic group of people ranging in all ages. From pre University students tagging along with their parents (their last hoorah before Uni life), through to people just wanting to get away from it all and experience the great NZ wilderness and all it has to offer.

View from the trail

Having undertaken numerous hikes in New Zealand, the Milford Track was always on our list to do. Besides, New Zealand has no poisonous snakes or huge spiders – yay.

The planned hike was partly in our preparation for heading back to the Himalayas in April and partly, as it’s defined as one of the Great Walks of New Zealand. We followed the same successful training pattern back in 2013 for the EBC 60th Anniversary Trek by hiking the Routeburn Track. The Milford Track certainly lived up to its reputation.

Waterfalls, streams and rivers abound

Milford Track Overview

So, on the 2nd of January, with back packs packed and rain gear stowed (the Milford Track is notorious for experiencing some of the highest rainfalls in NZ – sometimes up to a metre/36 inches in one day), we set off from Queenstown for a 3 hour scenic bus ride down to Te Anau. Then it was another 30-40 minutes to Te Anau Downs, where you catch the ferry across the lake to Glade Wharf.

Unpredictable weather

The day before in Queenstown was drizzly so given the time of the year, it was fully expected it would rain for the entire trip. When I mean rain, I mean anywhere between 30–100mm as we were headed into the Fiordland National Park, one of the wettest National Parks in the world. Then suddenly out came the sun and that’s where it stayed for most of the whole 5 days – our lucky rain coats came to the fore (more on that later).

Glade Lodge

About the track and huts

Both the Milford track and huts are well maintained by DOC (Department of Conservation), with the huts having a DOC ranger on site only during the official summer hiking season of October-May. There are also private lodges maintained by Ultimate Hikes for their hiking groups, which are a standard above the DOC huts. Outside of the hiking season, hiking the track is not recommended as facilities in the DOC huts are greatly reduced and there are additional safety hazards to consider such as snow and ice, and potential avalanches.

Top of the Mackinnon Pass

View back down the valley

View from the top of the pass

Overall, the Milford Track is a 4-5 day moderate hike. The only hard day is on day 3, with a zig zag/switchback up and over the McKinnon Pass (1,101m/3,612ft). When you reach the top of the pass, the McKinnon memorial stands before you. On a clear day, you get a nice view back down the valley and to the DOC hut or lodge where you’ve just hiked up from.

A bit of snow on top, even in January

Milford Track vs Routeburn Track?

A common question most people ask is “how does the Milford Track compare to the Routeburn Track?”. Well to be fair, that largely depends on what you’re after and how much time you have. Valley views vs Alpine? Waterfalls – the fifth highest in the world. Short on time? Distance to be hiked? You can read our comparison of the two walks here.

Our lucky raincoats!

Lucky Raincoats

Oh, and about those lucky raincoats. We call them lucky as ever since we bought them, the sun has always shone and so have stayed in our pack. With a reputation for torrential rain, the Milford Track was the ultimate test – may the long reign continue.

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor

Insights

You can do this hike either guided or self supported. Both cost, standard of the accommodation facilities and how much gear you need to carry are vastly different.

Book early as both the Milford and Routeburn tracks only have a certain number of hikers permitted each day and the season is usually well booked out in advance.

Plenty of water near the track

Water is readily available along the track.

Sutherland Falls

Sutherland Falls

Make sure you take your wet weather gear with you as you’re hiking in the mountains. The weather can be so unpredictable even at the best of times.

Hiking poles are handy

Hiking poles can be handy, especially on the long descent after McKinnon Pass.

Cheeky Keas on the lodge roof

On the Milford Track, watch out for close encounters with the native birdlife: the South Island Robin; cheeky Kea (watch out for your boots); Weka; Fantail; Bellbird. Even Kiwi have been sighted.

The wall of shame – boots that didn’t make it

Look out for the boots that never made it, located in Mitre Lodge at the end of the trip.

The Milford Track is classed as a moderate hike. If you are fit, active and healthy, any age can undertake the hike.

Prepare yourself for 6-8 hour days, carrying around a 8kg pack (will weigh more if you have to carry food).

Compare the Milford and Routeburn Tracks to help you decide which one to do (or do both!).

ultimatehikes.co.nz (guided) or For further information, check out(guided) or Department of Conservation (unguided).

You can also check this route guide and map on Fatmap.

Waterfall in the Milford Sound