Esquire and Esq, Ryan Squires’s elegant fine diner and his more casual spin-off at Eagle Street Pier, are closing. We knew this day was coming. The chef has been anticipating the end of his lease – and the subsequent closure of his two restaurants – since at least January 2016, when Broadsheet launched in Brisbane. Still, the email announcement and its blunt subject line, “esq. & esquire calls it a day | CLOSING Thurs March 29TH” came as a shock to Esq and Esquire subscribers.

A statement from Squires read: “I wish to thank all who dined at esq. & esquire over its seven years in operation, a massive thank you. I have not come to this decision lightly as I have very much enjoyed the experience but felt for a number of reasons this was the right time to close the restaurant. “I would like to thank all those involved and who supported me, especially my hard-working and loyal staff, my parents, friends and acquaintances.