2) 7 p.m. THE TOWER AND THE GLORY

A Greek flag flutters atop the crenelated battlements of the circular White Tower, but the structure was actually built by the Ottomans, who captured Thessaloniki from the Byzantine Empire in 1430. (They built the tower later that century and ruled the region until the Greek state captured it in 1912.) The interactive exhibitions about city history are a bit mysterious to anyone who can’t read Greek, but the glorious 360-degree view from the summit requires no translation. Admission, 4 to 8 euros, depending on season.

3) 8:30 p.m. TRIPLE DELIGHT

Each level of The Aficionados, an elegant townhouse and restaurant, offers a distinctive temptation. On the ground floor, Dimitris Pamporis (a veteran of the three-Michelin-star restaurant l’Auberge de l’Ill in France) serves a multicourse tasting menu (90 euros), while the top story houses a plush cocktail bar. On the floor between, neo-Greek cuisine with Asian infusions is the star. Meat mavens can experiment with the “Chinese Hot Dog” (Iberian pork and Chinese cabbage) followed by a veal filet or rib-eye. For an Aegean evening, trawl the seafood side of the card. Among appetizers, thin crunchy discs of kohlrabi sculpturally enfold an excellent tuna tartare flavored with soy sauce, sesame oil and an inspired purée of beetroot and peanut butter. More Asian accents follow with a thick slab of cod atop a velvety potato purée tinged with yuzu and truffle. A three-course meal for two is around 100 euros.

4) 11 p.m. FROM BATH TO BAR

Middle Eastern music drifts from the sound system while smoke from silvery water pipes fills the air. Are we still in Greece? Yes and no. Built in the 16th century as a Turkish bath, the Aigli Geni Hamam is now an indoor-outdoor bar and nightclub where the lofty stone domes shimmer with disco balls, and the soaring pointed arches glow with colored lights. Complete the Greco-Ottoman fantasia with a mix of raki and honey (5.50 euros) or a Mythos beer (4 euros).