Authored by Karen Venaas The Chameleon Farm

SO YOU THINK YOU WANT A CHAMELEON?

I got into chameleons late in life. I’ve always had animals, I grew up on a farm, had a pet pig, horses, even kept a few corn snakes and tarantulas. But a sweet little veiled chameleon I brought home after my kids were grown was my first serious attempt at keeping a reptile.

Like so many are, I was hooked right away. One chameleon turned into two chameleons and before I knew it I had a houseful of them. As much as I researched, I made plenty of mistakes. Some of my husbandry was not the best as my enthusiasm outweighed my research about proper chameleon keeping methods. I was setting up free ranges and cohabiting chameleons before I really understood the basics of things like proper humidity and temperature gradients.

I also took in a lot of chameleons in bad shape, truly wanting to help but not having enough knowledge to really nurse them back to health. Hundreds of dollars in vet bills and many tears over lost lives changed my course of action.

Often I see people online saying

“it works for me so it must be okay” or “there is more than one way to do things.”

What these keepers really don’t understand is that while things may work for a while, they won’t long-term and the stress of improper husbandry will cause ongoing chronic health issues and shorten the life of their chameleon.

I can post care sheet after care sheet, I’ve read many and written a few, but a care sheet alone does not help people understand the importance of following those guidelines. I share my mistakes not to say it’s okay to make them, but so people can see the consequences and understand that it’s not about “what works for me” it’s about what keeps chameleons healthy.

My goal is to cover many of these topics in depth in future articles but for now I’ll just highlight the basics in selecting and successfully keeping a chameleon.

BEFORE YOU BRING HOME A CHAMELEON

I admit, I brought home my first chameleon without having a proper setup. There were some circumstances that led to that but because I had a chameleon before I had what she needed, I had to put her in something temporary that was not ideal and I ended up spending more money on supplies than I needed to because I needed them immediately.

There are several types of chameleon habitats; glass, screen, and free ranging, which is what it sounds like–no enclosure. I use all three types but for now I will focus on screen as it is the most common, especially in the US. The first mistake many make is not getting a large enough cage. Healthy chameleons like to move around. They spend time basking but they also like to hunt and explore. Bigger is definitely better and it’s worth getting the largest cage you can.

Another mistake is in not providing enough foliage, vines and climbing areas. They need more than a stick to sit on. If they do not have enough climbing areas they may climb on the screen, which can lead to toenails being caught and pulled out, which can lead to infection. Having plenty of foliage not only gives them cover so they feel safer, it helps provide temperature gradients. Live plants are recommended to help with humidity but I like fake plants because they are easier to keep clean and replace. Whatever is used it needs to be safe–non-toxic, with no small items that can be swallowed and nothing sharp that can cause injury.

For screen cages I do not use any substrate. It’s easier to clean if I can just wipe the bottom of the cage as needed. If anything is used it’s important it is safe and can be kept clean.

Once the cage is set up, lighting is the next consideration. UVB is a must! Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to use the calcium in its system to keep the bones strong. I have seen so many cases of chameleons with metabolic bone disease (MBD) due to incorrect lighting and it is entirely preventable.

There are many quality UVB lights available. Depending on species, cage size and other factors, most commercially available lights can be used successfully. It is important to remember, most lights need to be changed as often as every six months. Just because it still gives out light does not mean it is still providing adequate UVB exposure.

It is just as important to have a basking light and create a temperature gradient with a warm basking spot and cooler temperatures lower in the cage. Your chameleon will find its own comfort level by basking at different levels within the habitat. Basking helps digestion and a chameleon that is too cold will slow or stop eating. A regular household bulb or low wattage reptile bulb is usually sufficient and should be placed outside the cage to avoid burns. Again, the size of the cage and the species of chameleon determine both the basking and ambient temperatures needed in the cage.

If a safe and secure environment can be provided it is good to take chameleons outside for natural sunlight. The sun provides both the UVB and basking temperatures so much better than any light can do. Again, make sure they are safe and do not just put them on a tree and leave them. They will wander off or a bird can grab them. I lost a chameleon that was free ranging inside but walked out of a door that was left open. I did find her…six weeks later! Fortunately, she was fine but most lost chameleon stories do not have happy endings.

A couple notes regarding lights and heat: Heat pads are not good to use–chameleons stay higher in the cage and would not benefit from heat on the floor. No lights or heat are needed at night. Chameleons need darkness to sleep and they need a temperature drop to help regulate their metabolism. Overnight temperatures as low as 50 degrees Fahrenheit will not harm them as long as they can warm up the next day.

Now that we have a cage and lighting, we are almost ready to bring home a chameleon. But first let’s talk about nutrition and hydration.

Providing adequate hydration is key. I see so many dehydrated chameleons. Not always severely dehydrated, often they are just suffering long-term chronic dehydration. I recently brought home a young chameleon with chronic low-grade dehydration. The stress of the move on his already damaged organs was too much for him and I lost him the first week due to kidney failure. I believe a good quality automatic mister that is capable of misting for long periods of time is the best option. Many people think a quick spray to wet the leaves is enough but chameleons can take a while to start drinking so being able to provide several minutes of misting is best. I mist for 30-45 minutes in the morning and 15-20 minutes in the early afternoon. This not only provides plenty of drinking time but it helps maintain proper humidity. (Misting alone may not keep proper humidity. When it is very dry and I use an inexpensive cool mist humidifier, which can be found at most drug stores.) Properly feeding your chameleon can be a full-time job. In the wild chameleons have a much greater variety of insects to eat and those insects have access to a large variety of fresh vegetation. In captivity they only get what we provide. In most cases that means mass-produced crickets bought at the pet store and tossed in the cage. This practice is not very healthy for a chameleon. They require a varied diet just as we do. Crickets, Dubia roaches, silkworms, hornworms, butterworms and super worms are just a few of the options. To provide optimal nutrition, feeders should be “gut loaded” (fed) with a variety of vegetables and fruits prior to being offered to your chameleon. I use a variety of fresh veggies including mustard greens, dandelion greens, squash, sweet potatoes, carrots and apples, as well as grains and cereals and sometimes seeds and nuts. Just as people need calcium for strong bones, so do chameleons. In addition to healthy gut loading, feeders should be dusted with plain calcium regularly, usually daily or at least several times a week. It is important to remember that young chameleons and females producing eggs need more calcium than adult males. One of the problems people often have in supplementing is that most calcium available contains Vitamin D3. While chameleons do need this, they do not need it daily and if given too frequently it can lead to toxicity and result in death. Vitamin D3 about twice a month is plenty, and not needed at all if the chameleon spends a lot of time outside in natural sunlight. Chameleons also require vitamins. Some of this requirement is meant by gutloading the feeders, but also should be provided by dusting the feeders with a vitamin powder once or twice a month. So, if all the work required to keep a chameleon has not convinced you to get a goldfish instead, we can talk about bringing home a healthy chameleon. Bringing Home Baby I cannot stress enough–do not buy a chameleon that looks sick just because you feel sorry for it. Do not buy a chameleon that you do not have the resources to care for, which may include vet visits. Do not buy a very young chameleon unless you know how to care for one. They are very delicate for the first couple of months and need very small insects that can be difficult to find. If I had a dollar for every time I have been asked, “I just rescued a chameleon, how do I take care of it?” I could buy myself a few more chameleons! I get it, I feel bad for them too but in the long run it creates a market because sellers, whether they are breeders or stores, know they can sell chameleons in any condition. A reputable breeder is the best option as they can answer questions and offer ongoing support. Reputable breeders can be found locally, online or at reptile shows across the country. You should look for a few basic things to be sure the chameleon is healthy: Eyes open and not sunken in

Straight limbs

Active and alert

No wounds or skin issues

Not gaping (mouth open) or signs of excessive saliva in the mouth

Clean habitat that is appropriate for a chameleon. Start with a healthy chameleon to increase your chance of success. Leave the sick and injured to those with more experience and resources. And be prepared–they are like potato chips. You can’t have just one. Like this article? Why not leave a tip! 50% of all donations go directly to the author. Good $1.00 Great $2.00 Awesome $3.00 or choose your support level… (We use PayPal but you don’t need an account with PayPal.)