My alarm clock rang at 5:30 in the morning and I sleepily got ready as quietly as possible at my hostel in Antigua, Guatemala in order to catch my early morning shuttle at 6 am. I got dressed, packed my daypack, and ate a quick breakfast of a protein bar that I had brought with me from home. Today, I was going to be hiking one of the three active volcanoes in Guatemala called Pacaya and I was super excited! This was going to be my first volcano experience ever.

Pacaya Volcano is an active volcano in Guatemala, located about an hour and a half from the charming colonial city of Antigua, and it is one of the most accessible volcanoes to hike in Guatemala, making it a popular half-day trip from nearby Antigua. The last activity reported at Pacaya was a large eruption in the spring of 2014. Antigua is situated in a valley surrounded by volcanoes and climbing one of the volcanoes is definitely a must-have experience when you’re in Guatemala!

I had booked a round-trip shuttle along with an English-speaking tour guide the day before from one of the many local travel agencies in Antigua (called Adrenalina Tours – they were awesome!). All of the local travel agencies in Antigua sell this package tour to Pacaya which includes round-trip shuttle transportation and a guide and you can choose to leave at either 6 am or 2 pm. The prices are very similar across all of the agencies at around Q90. If you go during the 2 pm tour, you will be departing the volcano while the sun is setting.

The shuttle van driver picked me up from my hostel shortly after 6 am and we were on our way! We drove around Antigua and stopped at a few other hotels and hostels to pick up more travelers until all of the seats were full before starting the drive to the volcano. The van was comfortable and spacious.

I had experienced some intense stomach pains the previous night and was still feeling a bit nauseous. The highway from Antigua to Pacaya Volcano was very twisty with lots of sharp curves as it wound its way through the lush jungle covered mountainous landscape and this definitely didn’t help my stomach at all! We passed through lots of small villages in the countryside and it was heartbreaking and shocking to see the extreme poverty that people were living in. The final road to Pacaya climbed up a steep mountain and then became a very bumpy dirt road as we drove through some even smaller villages in the countryside. I ended up meeting a couple of really nice American women on the shuttle and enjoyed chatting with them along the way. Aside from feeling slightly motion sick on the roads, the drive was very scenic and interesting.

After about an hour and a half of driving on these crazy roads, we finally arrived at Pacaya at around 7:45 am. The shuttle dropped us off in the tiny village of San Francisco de Sales, located at the base of the volcano. Upon exiting the shuttle van, we were met by a group of local children as they rushed to the door offering to rent walking sticks for Q5 or rent a horse. I declined and thought to myself, “I can do this on my own.” There were lots of stray dogs hanging around the entrance and one of them even followed me into the washroom, looking for attention! It broke my heart to see them looking so sad and malnourished.

There were modern washroom facilities at the entrance and after our group of approximately twelve people used them and paid the Q50 entrance fee to the volcano, we gathered by our English-speaking guide and began walking up the volcano.

The Hike

We walked on a narrow path of fine black volcanic ash which resembled gravel as we passed through gorgeous and dense lush green forests. The trail was a steep and steady uphill climb from the beginning as we ascended up the volcano. There were a group of local men with horses following close behind our group, in case anyone decided that they couldn’t do the hike anymore. I told myself in my head that I would complete the hike without the help of a horse, so I kept going. The hike became increasingly challenging and strenuous as we continued to gain elevation. Considering that I live on the flat prairies in Canada, I struggled with the elevation and the constant steep inclines. It was tiring and this was only the beginning but I decided to keep plugging along. I had remembered reading in many of the reviews online, that Pacaya was an “easy” hike for anyone of “an “average” fitness level but the climb was much more difficult than I was expecting. Our guide was moving at a very fast pace with few breaks to allow for catching our breath, which was really tough for me and I felt like I needed to stop constantly. The men with horses continued to follow our group and kept asking me if I wanted one, but I pushed past the pain and discomfort and continued on. After about fifteen minutes of steady uphill climbing, I suddenly felt extremely dizzy, weak, sick to my stomach and completely out of breath. In that moment, I actually thought that I was going to pass out, but thankfully, I didn’t. I knew at that point that my body would not be able to go on and that unfortunately, I wouldn’t be able to complete the hike. I told one of the young guys following us that I needed a horse and I paid him Q200 for the round-trip ride up and down the volcano. I am thinking that it was a combination of being sick from eating unclean fruit from the market the previous day and the high altitude.

There were only two of us in the group (including myself) who ended up opting for the horses. My horse’s guide helped me up onto the saddle of the horse and he walked in front of the horse and guided him along the trail with a rope. In hindsight, I was sooooo glad that I chose to rent the horse (money well-spent) because the hike only got harder from there. Soon after getting on the horse, my dizziness and nausea passed and I felt so much better. At first, I was beating myself in my head about quitting, as I had intended to challenge myself and wanted to be able to say that I had hiked an active volcano. But riding the horse was a really enjoyable experience and I loved it! I actually felt like I was able to appreciate the beautiful scenery to a greater extent, because I didn’t have to focus on hiking and could just sit back and take in the views. My horse’s name was “Chispa” and I was even able to have a basic conversation with the young horse guide using my very limited Spanish vocabulary. He lived in the small village where we arrived to the volcano and he told me that he had been hiking up and down the volcano with his horse since he was only ten years old! He was currently eighteen years old. We continued on climbing the volcano and the inclines were steep the entire way there. As I sat on the horse, I kept thinking to myself that I never would have been able to hike uphill for that long! Whenever our guide stopped for people to catch their breath, he told us some of the history of the volcano and the area where we were standing. He was very charming, informative and knowledgeable about the volcano and surrounding area. The trail to the top passed through beautiful and quiet forests the entire time and it didn’t even feel like we were on a volcano. There were a few areas along the trail where the trees opened up to provide AMAZING views of the surrounding jungle-covered mountainous landscape and the towns and cities nestled among them. It was so beautiful to see! The atmosphere was so serene and calm as we ascended up the volcano passing through beautiful lush forests along the way.

The Lava Fields

After about an hour and a half of gaining elevation, we arrived at the beginning of the expansive lava fields on top of a hill! The forest opened up to a barren landscape with nothing but black volcanic rocks ahead of us. The views of the lush green valley below and villages scattered throughout the mountainous landscape were breathtaking. Low swirling clouds covered the peak of the volcano, which rose above the lava fields. We stopped at the top of a hilly section for a break and our guide told us a little bit more information about Pacaya. Although it was an active volcano, it hadn’t erupted since 2014. There had also been a very large eruption in 2010, which destroyed many of the villages and locals’ homes at the base of the volcano and surrounding area. Our guide’s home was among those that was completely leveled by the volcanic lava in 2010 and it was interesting to learn about his personal connection to this volcano. Just by looking at the black lava, I could see the path that it had followed down the side of the volcano and tried to imagine what it would have looked like when it was red hot. I stood at the top of the hill just marveling at the breathtaking scenery around me.

Exploring the Lava Fields & Snack Time

From there, we continued on and made our way down the hill to see more of the lava fields. The terrain was rough, with large chunks of hardened black lava rocks everywhere and you could see the exact path where the lava had flowed. It was windy and chilly as we were quite high in elevation and I was definitely glad that I had worn a sweater and my windbreaker jacket! We finally arrived at the main area of the lava fields and we were given an ample amount of time to explore the area. I walked on the chunky lava fields which were surprisingly, still very hot from the last eruption two years ago! I could feel the heat through my shoes as I walked and I was shocked that it could still be so hot after so much had already passed. It was fascinating and such an amazing experience to walk on the dried lava rocks, but walking on the hardened lava was quite treacherous as well and many of the large rocks were unstable and had sharp edges. The landscape was gorgeous and unique with lush green vegetation and vibrant wildflowers thriving along the edges of the lava fields in sharp contrast to the dark black of the lava around it.

Our guide then called us over to him and he pulled out bags of marshmallows and sticks from his backpack and we all roasted marshmallows over the heat vents in the rocks! So cool! I was amazed at how quickly the marshmallows got crispy. It didn’t take long at all and the heat vents felt like air wafting out of an open oven. After spending some more time walking around the lava and taking photos, we walked through the lava field a little further to a very unique shop set up directly on the dried lava rocks, called The Lava Store (if you rented a horse, they don’t go this far and you have to walk this short portion, but the horses and guides wait for you at the next stop).

The Lava Store was just a small open-air hut with three walls and a roof sitting directly on the lava fields. We were told that it has had to move locations several times when the volcano has erupted. Inside, they sold a variety of jewelry made by local artisans which all incorporated the lava rock. Purchasing something here is a fantastic way to support the local communities around the volcano. It was fascinating to see these beautiful creations! Unfortunately, I had spent all of my money on my horse rental and didn’t have enough any extra cash to buy something there, although I would have loved to support them (there’s always next time!).

If you are hoping to see red hot lava flowing from the crater, you probably won’t see it at Pacaya. Although that would have been amazing, seeing the lava fields was also really fascinating and I wasn’t disappointed at all. You aren’t able to get close to the crater of the volcano for safety reasons, as this volcano is still active and could erupt at any time. But there’s always the chance that you will get lucky and be there during an eruption!

The Descent

After visiting the store, we all walked a short ways and then I met up with my horse and guide again and hopped back on as we started the descent down the volcano. We made our way along a ridge on the side of the volcano offering stunning views of the valley below, mountains and volcanoes and other areas where the lava had flowed. From there, we took a different path down the volcano than where we had arrived which provided some new and beautiful scenery. The trail was pretty steep heading down the volcano as well. The atmosphere was so peaceful and calm and our group were the only ones around during our entire time at the volcano, which was lovely. After about forty-five minutes, we made it back to the base of the volcano in a different area than where we had started from. I dismounted from my horse and thanked my guide and then we waited there as a group for our shuttle to arrive. Ten minutes or so later, we hopped in the shuttle and were on our way back to Antigua!

Even though you likely won’t see red hot flowing lava at this volcano, visiting Pacaya was such a unique and worthwhile adventure! I thoroughly enjoyed the experience of riding a horse up to the lava fields, walking on the hardened and warm lava rocks, and roasting marshmallows over the heat vents in the rocks. Overall, I had a great morning at Pacaya and would highly recommend this tour to those who want to experience an active volcano in Guatemala. Just be aware that this is not an easy hike and be ready for a challenge!

Visiting Pacaya is a great way to spend a morning or afternoon while staying in nearby Antigua.

Transportation and Tours to Pacaya Volcano

Pacaya is one of the most popular volcano hikes in the Antigua area and it’s very easy to find transportation and tours there. Every travel agency in Antigua (and there are many of them!) sell a package that includes round-trip shared shuttle transportation and a certified guide (either English or Spanish-speaking) to the volcano. I compared prices at a few different agencies and discovered that all of them were selling this tour for around the same price of Q90, so it really doesn’t matter what agency you choose to book the tour through (although I have included a list of reliable and well-known travel companies in Antigua below for your reference and as a starting point when searching for tours) as the service is all the same and guide is provided by the park where the volcano is located, not the actual travel agency. The half-day tours to Pacaya leave from Antigua at 6 am and 2 pm with most of the tour companies and they will pick you up in a shared shuttle van right from your accommodation. The tours last from between five and six hours, including driving time so if you go on the 2 pm tour, you will be descending the volcano while the sun is setting (make sure to bring a flashlight or head lamp with you!).

Upon arriving at the entrance to the volcano, you will have to pay an additional Q50 admission fee to the park where the volcano is located. The drive there from Antigua takes around one and a half hours one-way.

Here are some reliable and well-known travel agencies in Antigua who sell the tour package to Pacaya:

Adrenalina Tours – 5a Avenida Norte #31. You can email them at info@adrenalinatours.com or call their office at 502-5308-1489. I booked my Pacaya tour through this agency and they were great! The staff were very friendly and professional and the company was reliable. I would highly recommend them.

– 5a Avenida Norte #31. You can email them at info@adrenalinatours.com or call their office at 502-5308-1489. I booked my Pacaya tour through this agency and they were great! The staff were very friendly and professional and the company was reliable. I would highly recommend them. Atitrans – 6a Avenida Sur #8. Call them at 502-7832-3371.

– 6a Avenida Sur #8. Call them at 502-7832-3371. Rainbow Travel Center – 7a Avenida Sur #8. You can phone them at 502-7931-7878.

– 7a Avenida Sur #8. You can phone them at 502-7931-7878. Luna Tours – 1a Calle Poniente #8. Their phone number is 502-7832-4720.

Tips for Visiting Pacaya Volcano

If you are planning on hiking or horseback riding up Pacaya Volcano, here some helpful tips that I learned during my experience there!

Wear sturdy and comfortable hiking or athletic shoes . The trail is a consistent and steep uphill climb for pretty much all of the way up and the lava rocks are very unstable and difficult to walk on. Wear the right shoes to prevent a sprained ankle while hiking up and descending the volcano!

. The trail is a consistent and steep uphill climb for pretty much all of the way up and the lava rocks are very unstable and difficult to walk on. Wear the right shoes to prevent a sprained ankle while hiking up and descending the volcano! Be prepared for a challenging climb. Hiking Pacaya is not an easy task, especially if you’re from a flat area of the world like me and aren’t used to hiking elevations. From the beginning to the time you reach the lava fields, the trail is very steep and physically difficult.

Hiking Pacaya is not an easy task, especially if you’re from a flat area of the world like me and aren’t used to hiking elevations. From the beginning to the time you reach the lava fields, the trail is very steep and physically difficult. Bring extra cash . Make sure to bring at least an extra Q200 with you, in case you opt to rent a horse at some point along your hike. You may also want to bring some money to purchase one of the unique gifts at the Lava Store or a snack at the entrance to the volcano hike. Also, don’t forget to take Q50 for the entrance fee to the volcano (this is not included in the price of your guided tour and transportation package).

. Make sure to bring at least an extra Q200 with you, in case you opt to rent a horse at some point along your hike. You may also want to bring some money to purchase one of the unique gifts at the Lava Store or a snack at the entrance to the volcano hike. Also, don’t forget to take Q50 for the entrance fee to the volcano (this is not included in the price of your guided tour and transportation package). Wear a windbreaker and warm layers. As you gain elevation on the volcano, the temperatures change drastically and it can get quite cool and windy when you are at the lava fields. I recommend dressing in warm layers and wearing a light windbreaker to protect yourself from the elements and stay warm.

As you gain elevation on the volcano, the temperatures change drastically and it can get quite cool and windy when you are at the lava fields. I recommend dressing in warm layers and wearing a light windbreaker to protect yourself from the elements and stay warm. Opt for a horse. If you are feeling like the trail is too difficult for you or if you just don’t want to hike, there are locals with horses that follow behind your tour group up the volcano. At any point along the way, you can pay Q200 for a round-trip horse ride up and down the volcano. I thoroughly enjoyed it and I was able to see more of the beautiful scenery!

If you are feeling like the trail is too difficult for you or if you just don’t want to hike, there are locals with horses that follow behind your tour group up the volcano. At any point along the way, you can pay Q200 for a round-trip horse ride up and down the volcano. I thoroughly enjoyed it and I was able to see more of the beautiful scenery! Bring your own snacks and water. There is a small store at the entrance of the volcano hike that sells processed snacks and water bottles, but they are overpriced and I recommend bringing your own (healthier) snacks, like fresh fruit or energy bars, and a large bottle or two of water in a reusable water bottle (to help cut down on the use of plastic).

There is a small store at the entrance of the volcano hike that sells processed snacks and water bottles, but they are overpriced and I recommend bringing your own (healthier) snacks, like fresh fruit or energy bars, and a large bottle or two of water in a reusable water bottle (to help cut down on the use of plastic). Go in the morning. When you book your tour with a local travel agency, you have the option of doing a 6 am or 2 pm tour. I would recommend the morning tour so that you can make it down the volcano before it gets dark. If you do take the 2 pm tour, make sure to bring a flashlight or headlamp to help you see after the sun sets!

Practical Information

Location – At the base of the small village called San Francisco de Sales, Guatemala.

Cost – The Q50 entrance fee to the volcano is not included in the price of the tours that are booked at travel agencies. The travel agency packages cost between Q80 and Q100 from Antigua and include round-trip shuttle transportation and a certified guide.

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Planning Your Adventure to Guatemala?

Here are some helpful links if you are currently planning your next travel adventure!

Compare prices and book your flights using Momondo. I love the user-friendly design and how easy it is to filter your flights. This is a great website for finding great flight deals!

Use Hostelworld to book a private room or dorm bed at a budget-friendly hostel and browse through listings across the globe. Use Booking.com to find a huge inventory of independent hotels, guesthouses, bed and breakfasts, hostels and chain hotels around the world and for every budget. And if you’re looking for a more authentic and unique experience of staying in a local’s home at your destination, then book your stay using Airbnb (sign-up using my link and get a discount on your first stay).

Have you climbed Pacaya Volcano in Guatemala? What was your experience like? What other volcanoes in Guatemala or Central America have you hiked and would recommend?

Let me know in the comments below! Do you have an interesting volcano story to tell? I would love to hear it.

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Thanks for reading!