SHOPPERS AT THE NEW Nordstrom in midtown Manhattan who flag with hunger while contemplating Valentino sweaters or Vans sneakers have plenty of options for sustenance. The 320,000-square-foot, seven-level department store features a staggering seven eateries, from the luxe, sit-down restaurant “Wolf” to a stall slinging mochi donuts.

That might seem like a lot of canteens to cram under one roof, but Nordstrom’s feeding frenzy aligns with a broader trend for in-store restaurants that curiously defies the mounting bad news for...