Kentucky is a beautiful place. Driving down Interstate 71 from Cincinnati to Louisville, one climbs briefly out of the bowl of the Ohio River Valley and continues through the long, rolling hills into the Outer Bluegrass, the region which encompasses both Lexington and Louisville, Kentucky’s largest city. Louisville’s topography doesn’t feature as much of the verdant pastureland for which the Inner Bluegrass region is famed, but the city itself is rich with history, and has a fantastic food scene and burgeoning beer culture. Not to mention the Kentucky Derby. The 2018 Kentucky Derby takes place on the first Saturday in May at Churchill Downs, a racetrack in southern Louisville, just as it has since its inaugural run in 1875. Sometimes billed as “the longest running sporting event in the United States,” the thoroughbred horse race is as synonymous with Kentucky as bourbon and bluegrass. The traditions associated with the Derby are many: Seersucker suits, big hats, glitzy galas and booze. Lots of booze. While the Mint Julep has long associations with Kentucky generally and the Derby specifically, today’s Derby and affiliated celebrations more and more reflect the diverse and changing habits of American drinkers. Bourbon reigns in Kentucky. Woodford Reserve is the official sponsor of the 2018 Derby, and the Derby website helpfully offers up a bevy of cocktail recipes to complement your Derby experience. The race’s associations with high society and old money make the traditional tipples skew toward the “refined,” but beer is increasingly present in the grandstands. As this year’s Derby happens to fall on May 5, it’s perhaps appropriate that Corona Extra is the “official imported beer” of the race.

People mule in as much beer as they can to the infield.”

But what about Louisville’s hometown beers? Aside from a nut brown ale from Goodwood Brewing aged in Woodford Reserve Rye barrels, don’t expect to see many beers from Louisville breweries for sale at Churchill Downs—the lucrative sponsorship deals that usually put beers for sale at concessions are beyond the reach of most craft brewers. "Inside, at the track itself, there are marketing deals that kind of preclude a lot of us smaller brands from getting in,” said Sam Cruz of Against the Grain Brewery, one of Louisville’s first and most influential craft breweries. "It doesn’t bother me one bit that we’re not there officially; people mule in as much beer as they can to the infield,” he laughed, “so I’d be surprised if we weren’t there one way or another.” As at many racing events, the infield area at Churchill Downs is general admission, and has the reputation of being where the real party happens—though outside alcohol is officially prohibited, the infield is thick with smuggled-in beer and liquor. "Out there in the infield, it’s a big tailgate party and then some,” Cruz said. "It’s like Kentucky culture plus Mardi Gras. I think Hunter Thompson said it’s the most decadent debauchery he’s ever seen. There’s no better way to describe it—decadent depravity.” The bathetic balance of the Kentucky Derby experience, where high society rubs up against the just plain high, is not limited to Derby Day, but forms the basis for a weeks-long citywide bacchanal. Festivities kick off two weeks prior to the race with Thunder Over Louisville, a spectacle of fireworks and airshow theatrics. The whole city thrums. "It’s a build up that’s kinda hard to explain,” said Cruz. “It’s like spring break for two weeks. There’s a build up for Derby, then the big party, then about a half week of recovering.” I asked Cruz what he likes to drink during Derby festivities. “At the track, because options are limited, if I’m in the mood for beer I’m gonna seek out the most appropriate drink for the weather. If it’s cold and rainy I’m gonna find whatever’s dark and heavy. But more than likely I’m drinking bourbon. If it’s warm out in the infield, you’ll see me drinking a PBR. It’s just one of those things where pickings are slim. I can do High Life all day as well.”