I’ve stayed in some unusual digs on my travels but this was something new. I walked through the colorfully hand-painted door to music emanating from a boombox and the soft thud of bodies hitting gymnastics mats. There were about a dozen kids learning how to tumble, and I could see a trapeze, a Cyr wheel and aerial silks. This place was a circus — literally. These were my hosts: the members of an Ethiopian circus troupe — good-natured and helpful, and eager to educate me about their country — who rent out a spare room to travelers.

It was just one of the pleasures of exploring Addis Ababa, the capital of the oldest independent country in Africa (though it was occupied by the Italians, Ethiopia was never formally colonized). The capital, where both Orthodox Christianity and Islam are practiced, is an extraordinary, fascinating and sometimes heartbreaking city. Dire poverty is still a harsh reality for many in the country despite a booming economy. And while the city can certainly be navigated inexpensively, you will also find fascinating cultural landmarks, wonderful food and an almost unparalleled coffee culture.

Some preplanning is required before heading to Ethiopia — starting with a visa. Americans can apply for one upon arrival at Addis Ababa’s Bole International Airport. Those who do, however, run the risk of having to line up with other travelers. I applied for the visa online, a convenience that was rolled out just this summer. I paid the $50 fee electronically (plus an extra $2 service fee) and was approved in less than a day. I recommend printing out the receipt and holding onto the paperwork through your departure from the country — it expedited my exit when passport control couldn’t locate my visa in the computer.