Barbecue, to its devotees, is more than a culinary genre; it's a point of regional pride, a fierce declaration of loyalties and a cultural and lifestyle identifier. So I was a little nervous to write a review of AJ's Rib A Go Go Barbecue, the unassuming little food truck on the corner of Lake Otis Parkway and 86th Avenue. As an East Coast expat, I will go to the mat on the subject of bagels, clam chowder, lobster rolls and a good dirty-water hot dog. But when it comes to barbecue, I admit that I don't have sauce running through my veins. I'll plead the foodie version of the art cliché: I don't know anything about barbecue, but I know what I like. So, while I worked my way enthusiastically through piles of ribs, brisket and chicken, I did it in complete ignorance of its authenticity. Turns out, it's true what they say. Ignorance is bliss. And so, mostly, is AJ's.

For starters, AJ's has a decidedly rustic curb appeal -- perfect for decidedly rustic American cuisine. The trailer looks like it's been around the block a time or two, right down to the handwritten "cash only" sign. A rusty, barrel-shaped barbecue at the back emanates heady, smoky smells of mouth-watering promise.

If I were a casting director, the burly, bearded and (just a wee bit) brusque man running the kitchen would at least get a callback. AJ himself? In the interest of anonymity, I didn't ask. I did, however, ask his advice on how to best feed three hungry adults on a sunny Saturday afternoon. He suggested the three-meat combo ($34) which comes with three sides.

The menu describes its fare as Louisiana-style barbecue and lists country ribs, spare ribs, brisket, chicken and baby-back ribs (not available with the combos) under meats. But, luckily for the indecisive, not all meats are available at all times. In fact, there were only three meats available that afternoon -- country ribs, spare ribs and brisket -- so the combo just created itself. I chose one each of the three available sides: potato salad, coleslaw and baked beans.

The (very) generous portions of meat came heaped together into one Styrofoam container and were lavishly coated with a thick blanket of barbecue sauce. This means that you don't necessarily know what you're eating until you're eating it. "It's like you're judging by texture," said my friend and co-taster Dave. This was not a complaint from our carnivorous crowd because, while each bite was a mystery, each meat was distinct and competing for favorite status.

The country ribs were big and meaty with a slightly sweet quality to the meat and a pleasing fattiness. The spare ribs -- my preference -- were a little denser and chewier, allowing for a more satisfyingly caveman-like eating experience. Both were excellent but the winner of the day was the brisket -- tender, fall-apart cubes of smoky perfection. This was brisket at its best.

The sauce, while not quite as punchy as I like it, was bright, tangy and, happily for me, not cloyingly sweet. But I do think it's dealt out with too liberal a hand. We were digging in a sea of sauce to pull out hunks of delectable meat. Normally, an abundance of sauce is used to cover up a dish that is less than adequate. But there are no cover-ups needed here. The meat is so good it should be allowed to speak for itself.

Side dishes can make me sad. So often they are tired little afterthoughts hastily thrown together to make a meal "complete." Not so at AJ's. These are thoughtful dishes that stand alone. The potato salad is a well-executed classic -- creamy but not mushy with firm but pliant potatoes and a subtle dressing that pairs nicely with the acidic barbecue sauce. The slaw, while not innovative, tastes fresh and snappy. The baked beans were my favorite -- rich, meltingly tender, and chock full of meaty taste with big chunks of sausage hidden like prizes throughout.

I returned the following week to try the few items we didn't get to the first time around. This time, I ordered a half-chicken ($11 with two sides), a pound of spare ribs ($13) -- again, because baby-backs weren't available and I had a hungry family -- and out of curiosity, a hot link sandwich ($5).

The sandwich, like all of the other entrees, is smothered -- unnecessarily, I thought -- with barbecue sauce, but the sausage itself was good with a heat that develops slowly and nicely balances the salty tang of the meat.

Now, about the chicken. I believe what we have here is a failure to communicate. When ordering a half-chicken I expect one breast, one wing, one thigh and one drumstick. You don't need your own flock for this kind of basic fowl-anatomy expertise. What I got was six drumsticks. So, unless they have learned to breed some nightmarish 12-legged chickens, this item needs to be rephrased on the menu. Please, no fan art.

Now, let me clear. In my household, fighting for the drumsticks of any well-cooked bird is a time-honored tradition. Drumsticks are delicious, dark, moist and meaty. Also, drumsticks are fun to eat and come with their own handle (particularly convenient when said drumsticks are covered in barbecue sauce). But a half-chicken this was not and potentially disappointing to white meat fans. I would happily pay the same amount of money for this generously portioned container of drumsticks, but I would appreciate full disclosure.

Every dish at AJ's shares a common ingredient, one that I rarely have enough of: time. Time deepens the flavor of the sauce, tenderizes the meat until it melts in your mouth and adds smoky flavor and crispy texture. If you're craving barbecue today, you're in luck. AJ knew about it two days ago and the ribs are ready.

To all of the barbecue purists out there who crave authenticity, please don't trust my Yankee palate. I think it tastes like the real deal, but if I'm wrong, I don't want to fight about it. My mouth is too full of brisket.

AJ's Rib A Go Go Barbecue

3 1/2 stars $$

Hours: 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; noon-7 p.m. Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday

Location: 86th Avenue and Lake Otis Parkway (next to Heavenly Cup Espresso)