Ever since I was a kid, the wing was always my favorite part of the chicken. While my siblings fought over the legs and thighs, I always reached for the wings.

Until recently, my absolute favorite place to eat chicken wings was chef Jason Quinn’s Noodle Tramp at Santa Ana’s 4th Street Market, but he closed that restaurant this year. So now that Noodle Tramp is history, where’s a guy to go for great wings? I gave myself the mission of answering that question, and here are 10 of the best places I found.

TLT Food

The wings: A half-dozen pieces get seasoned with spicy Southeast-Asian inspired sambal and sesame seeds. Garnished with green apple and lime.

Cost: $6

Spice level: Vibrant and sassy

Verdict: Awesome

Where: Irvine Spectrum, 705 Spectrum Center Drive, Irvine; 949-727-1414, tltfood.com

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Neapolitan pizzeria

The wings: A half-dozen pieces dusted with rosemary and Parmesan are flavored with onions and Calabrian chilies, then roasted in a cast-iron skillet in the wood-fired oven. These are some of the biggest, meatiest and juiciest wings around.

Cost: $11

Spice level: Mild but full-flavored

Verdict: Outstanding

Where: 31542 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach; 949-499-4531, nealaguna.com

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Garlic & Chives

The wings: There are two types here. Get the ones called Holy Crunchy Chicken, a half-dozen wings sprinkled with dried red chilies and sweet, sticky, spicy, ultra-messy garlic sauce.

Cost: $7

Spice level: Sweet burn

Verdict: Outstanding

Where: 9892 Westminster Ave., Garden Grove; 714-591-5196

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Baos Hog

The wings: These wings (six pieces) are a fun riff on Chinese salt-and-pepper ribs. It’s enough to make you wonder why ribs ever became a ubiquitous Chinese takeout item when chicken wings, served with creamy Sriracha sauce, are obviously so much better.

Cost: $4.50

Spice level: Peppery but not spicy

Verdict: Outstanding

Where: 13918 Brookhurst St., Garden Grove; 714-600-3311, mkt.com/baoshog

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MRK Public

The wings: Free-range chicken wings (six pieces) marinate in brine for 24 hours, then are baked, flash-fried and tossed with Vietnamese-style garlicky chili caramel.

Cost: $13

Spice level: Mild, sweet burn

Verdict: Outstanding. Amazingly tender.

Where: 1402 S. El Camino Real, San Clemente; 949-441-7621, mrkpublic.com

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Bangkok Avenue

The wings: The Thai-style Dynamite Wings (six pieces) are more sweet than hot, tossed with a sticky-tangy sauce that tastes of Sriracha, tamarind and palm sugar.

Cost: $8

Spice level: Predominantly sweet

Verdict: Excellent

Where: 17221 Beach Blvd., Huntington Beach; 714-841-9567, bangkokavenue.com

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Eureka!

The wings: The spicy Reaper Wings (nine pieces) are very similar to classic Buffalo-style hot wings, with a strong undercurrent of what is probably Frank’s Red Hot sauce. A creamy blue cheese dressing is served for dipping.

Cost: $11

Spice level: Spicy but not radioactive

Verdict: Excellent. Bonus for the accompanying crudités.

Where: 4143 Campus Drive, Irvine; 949-596-8881, eurekarestaurantgroup.com

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Brew Kitchen Alehouse

The wings: A hearty helping of nine pieces is generously mopped with a sultry, harissa-based hot sauce that summons the ghost of American barbecue, with a side of blue cheese dressing.

Cost: $9

Spice level: Exciting but not X-rated

Verdict: Outstanding

Where: 10708 Los Alamitos Blvd., Los Alamitos; 562-431-3900, brewkitchen alehouse.com

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Black Marlin

The wings: Another hearty helping of nine pieces, these wings are prepared in the classic sweet-spicy, southeast-Asian style, accented with vegetable crudités and blue cheese dressing.

Cost: $11

Spice level: Sweet

Verdict: Very good

Where: 560 El Camino Real, Tustin; 714-929-7427, blackmarlinrestaurant.com

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Spicy Lao

The wings: There are a couple different variations, but get the signature Spicy Lao Wings (eight-10 pieces). They’re wok-fried until very crisp and charred around the edges, then finished with gobs of fresh green chilies, garlic and scallions. There’s no sauce, per se. Think if it more as a relish.

Cost: $10

Spice level: Yowza! Also available in mild, if desired

Verdict: Outstanding

Where: 8851 Garden Grove Blvd., Garden Grove; 714-867-6041, spicylao.com

Contact the writer: bajohnson@ocregister.com Also on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram