Gucci is no stranger to controversy, but it’s rare to see a brand’s shortfalls called out on the runway, least of all by a model who is wearing its clothes.

But on Sunday, one model did just that in protest to Gucci’s use of straitjackets in its spring/summer 2020 collection as debuted at Milan Fashion Week.

Models glided down the brand’s conveyor belt runway wearing reworked versions of the garments historically used in psychiatric hospitals, but Ayesha Tan Jones appeared holding up her hands, on which the words “mental health is not fashion” were written.

Jones, who identifies as non-binary, later uploaded a video from the show on Instagram and explained that as someone who has previously suffered with mental health issues, they found Gucci’s designs deeply offensive.

“As an artist and model who has experienced my own struggles with mental health, as well as family members and loved ones who have been affected by depression, anxiety, bipolar and schizophrenia, it is hurtful and insensitive for a major fashion house such as Gucci to use this imagery as a concept for a fleeting fashion moment,” they wrote.

Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 Show all 28 1 /28 Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 iggy-pop.jpg MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: Iggy Pop attends the Gucci show during Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 on September 22, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for Gucci) Getty Images for Gucci Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 hari-nef.jpg MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: Hari Nef attends the Gucci show during Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 on September 22, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Victor Boyko/Getty Images for Gucci) Getty Images for Gucci Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 asap-rocky.jpg MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 22: ASAP Rocky attends the Gucci show during Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 on September 22, 2019 in Milan, Italy. 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(Photo by Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for HugoBoss) Getty Images Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 gettyimages-1175561217.jpg MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 18: Alexa Chung attends Prada Spring/Summer 2020 Womenswear Fashion Show on September 18, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images for Prada) Getty Images for Prada Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 gettyimages-1175561218.jpg MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 18: ASAP Rocky attend Prada Spring/Summer 2020 Womenswear Fashion Show on September 18, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D'Aprano/Getty Images for Prada) Getty Images for Prada Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 1175684463.jpg MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 19: Olivia Palermo, wearing Max Mara, attends the Max Mara show during Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 on September 19, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for Max Mara) Andreas Rentz Getty Images for Max Mara Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 1175682960.jpg MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 19: Halima Aden, wearing Max Mara, attends the Max Mara show during Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 on September 19, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for Max Mara) Andreas Rentz Getty Images for Max Mara Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 1175724228.jpg MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 19: Hikari Mori, wearing Max Mara, attends the Max Mara show during Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 on September 19, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Andreas Rentz/Getty Images for Max Mara) Andreas Rentz Getty Images for Max Mara Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 07853257.jpg epa07853257 Italian singer Levante poses before the Emporio Armani show during the Milan Fashion Week, in Milan, Italy, 19 September 2019. The Spring-Summer 2020 Women's collections are presented at the Milano Moda Donna from 17 to 23 September 2019. EPA/MATTEO BAZZI MATTEO BAZZI EPA Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 1175690835.jpg MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 19: Celina Locks attends the Emporio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 on September 19, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images) Vittorio Zunino Celotto Getty Images Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 1175686146.jpg MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 19: Valentina BellÃ¨ attends the Emporio Armani fashion show during the Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 on September 19, 2019 in Milan, Italy. 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REUTERS/Alessandro Garofaloâ€¨ ALESSANDRO GAROFALO REUTERS Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 gettyimages-1175562341.jpg MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 18: Winnie Harlow attends Prada Spring/Summer 2020 Womenswear Fashion Show on September 18, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Prada) Getty Images for Prada Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 gettyimages-1175562229.jpg MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 18: Jeanne Damas attends Prada Spring/Summer 2020 Womenswear Fashion Show on September 18, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Vittorio Zunino Celotto/Getty Images for Prada) Getty Images for Prada Best-dressed celebrities at Milan Fashion Week SS20 gettyimages-1175561676.jpg MILAN, ITALY - SEPTEMBER 18: Susie Lau attends Prada Spring/Summer 2020 Womenswear Fashion Show on September 18, 2019 in Milan, Italy. 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“It is in bad taste for Gucci to use the imagery of straitjackets and outfits alluding to mental patients, while being rolled out on a conveyor belt as if a piece of factory meat.”

Jones accused the luxury label of presenting mental health issues as “props for selling clothes in today’s capitalist climate” before describing the designs as “vulgar, unimaginative and offensive".

While many of Jones’ followers concurred that Gucci’s creations were in poor taste, actor and model Hari Nef defended the concept, commenting: “It was more a provocative reminder of submission than a glamorisation of insanity.”

The brand issued a statement in response to Jones on Instagram on Sunday evening describing the straitjackets included in the show as a symbol of "the most extreme version of a uniform dictated by society and those who control it".

"These clothes were a statement for the fashion show and will not be sold," it continued, explaining that creative director Alessandro Michele designed the clothes "to represent how through fashion, power is exercised over life, to eliminate self-expression".