In the closing moments of the final season of Game of Thrones, Emmy-winning costume designer Michele Clapton had her most triumphant moment. I don’t mean the brief on-camera cameo where her hands can be seen busily getting the Queen in the North ready for her coronation—I mean the final Sansa look itself. Sophie Turner’s stunning gown, crown, and cape tell the full sartorial story of Sansa’s journey from frightened girl to formidable monarch. Eagle-eyed fans have sussed out some of that—but in an exclusive new excerpt from Insight Editions’ upcoming book Game of Thrones: The Costumes, Clapton outlines more of the little influences viewers had missed. Including, oh yes, a nod to Sansa’s most controversial mentor: Littlefinger.

But Sansa isn’t the only woman of Westeros who put a good deal of thought into her fashion. Vanity Fair has a first look at Clapton’s insights into Cersei, Brienne, and Arya as well. You can preorder the book here; it will be out on November 11. Read on to find out how Robb Stark, the direwolf Lady, and many more made their fashion mark on Sansa’s big day.

As a nimble seamstress and fashion sponge, Sansa long gave Clapton an excuse to have fun mixing and matching Northern and Southern styles. It’s easy, too, to see how Sansa, who uses style as one of her most powerful weapons, could be a stand-in for Clapton herself. (The costumer has been known to wear a piece of jewelry that looks awfully similar to Sansa’s signature necklace.) So it’s no wonder Clapton went all out for Sansa’s final and most dramatic entrance.

It’s easy to spot the Catelyn Tully influence on the dress, with the fish scale sleeves and a silhouette that matches the Stark matriarch’s preferred shape. Clapton herself also revealed back in May that the fabric on the dress is the same used in Margaery Tyrell’s wedding gown—only dyed a more somber gray. But fans may have missed the feathers trailing down one side, which are meant to call back to the Queen in the North’s other big fashion moment: Dark Sansa. They also might have missed the beaded direwolf head among the feathers—which, according to Clapton, is meant to “represent Lady, Sansa’s direwolf.”

Courtesy of Insight Editions

There’s no missing the cascade of red weirwood leaves down one panel of Sansa’s gown—but the breastplate itself is fashioned to look like the branches of the tree “growing upward to show hope for the future of the North.” The cape, too, was padded at the neck and shoulders to give Sansa an imposing silhouette, “similar to her late father’s”—but lined with softer rabbit fur in homage to the simpler capes her brothers (and Theon) all wore when they were young boys at Winterfell.