My tips:



Lots of tiny pieces to lose: 4 screws, the little white button in the

switch housing(!), and, of course, the critical copper piece. Keep your work area

clear and keep track of what goes where.



Step 6b: For the person unfamiliar with circuits, I recommend playing with the

switch without the housing BEFORE removing the copper piece. Get a good

feel for what it should look and sound like when you are done or you'll

probably regret it after completing step 7! It's a surprisingly

complex little tiny thing. And it won't feel like anything is particularly wrong either. That's how sensitive the switch is!



Step 8: Put the "back" (the part that changes which circuit it is closing) into place first while simultaneously hooking the "front" (the stationary part). The copper piece at this point will be bulging upward and tend to want to slide around and pop off. Hold it steady and then use a screwdriver to gently and SLOWLY push the piece you bent in the previous step downwards until you hear it click into place. If you push it down too far it'll pop under the middle hook and you'll have to start over. Once I figured out how it worked, it took me about two minutes to get it set properly. But it took about 30 minutes of wrestling with it to figure out how to do it right.



Just think: There's probably some person in China whose job is to put the copper piece onto the switch and has it down to under 1/4 of a second per switch. If they were to ever see this Instructable, they'd be laughing at all of us.



That little copper piece was difficult to get right. But everything works now and no more double-clicking on my G500s that was driving me up the wall for the past couple of days. I have a couple older gaming mice with the same double-click problem. I may repair those too now that I know how. Thank you for saving me $50+ on a new mouse frEmn!

