Welcome to Chapter 11, the new feature film from Dane Reynolds.

Dane Reynolds' life began in Bakersfield, an hour and a half south and just as inland as the location of Mr Slater’s artificial wave. A space in California that is synonymous with meth labs, dirt bikes, tramp stamps and summer heat pushing 110 drips (43 C).

Remember First Chapter? Well, this is Dane's last chapter. “How did I go from a shy, sensitive kid from Bakersfield to a hardened, cynical, ageing pro surfer, who probably should’ve milked it for all its worth? Well, let’s examine.”

Chapter 11 is more of a memoir than a surf film. It’s a candid dose of Dane. He opens up about everything behind the fog of Marine Layer Productions, magazine covers, edits and the days he spent on tour. However, as you’d expect, the surfing is tenderised and prime. Chapter 11 – bankruptcy, if that flew over your head – includes the likes of Craig Anderson, Ozzy Wright, K Bone, Dillon Perillo, Creed McTaggart, Taj Burrow, Noa Deane, Dion Agius, and Dylan Graves.

Dane discusses the challenges of being a professional surfer in Ventura – “go to Orange County for that" – and trying to remain understated while major sponsors took notice. Everything from his first professional boat trip, convincing his parents to pull him from school, his deal and parting with Quiksilver, and the anxiety to perform. “In my heat, my throat started closing. I got out of the water and into my car. I was on the 405 in my Volvo doing 90 MPH to the hospital,” he says. “I pulled over and called (wife) Courtney and said, I think I’m dying.”

This is 37 unmissable minutes, Dane's pièce de résistance. You should already be watching.