Located in the small country town of Dunham, Quebec, about thirty minutes from the Vermont border, Brasserie Dunham has undergone a radical transformation. Brewmaster Eloi Deit, formerly of Quebec's famous Le Cheval Blanc, took over the struggling little brewpub as a temporary moonlighting gig. Before he knew it, he had cleaned house, ditched the recipes, and when the sun came up, he had created something truly special.

These days, Brasserie Dunham is known for a wide variety of beers, but especially their saisons and barrel aged beers. Surrounded by fruit farmers, honey producers, cideries, and wineries, Eloi's geography is not unlike Hill Farmstead, and the effect it has on his mindset as a brewer is similarly nuanced. Beautiful, fluffy, balanced beers that are bright and full of flavor.

Saison Rustique is a perfect example of Brasserie Dunham's point of view. Refermented in the bottle, Rustique's powerful effervescence livens up the orange-pith-like bitterness. Musty esters and a slightly phenolic aroma pop off the ice-berg-like head, with a spicy waft of funk. Perfect for a summer refresher, but bracing enough for a mid-winter break, this beer is dry as a bone and finishes with a brett-like quality, leaving almost no trace of itself on your palate other than some vague citrus and soft, soapy texture.