There’s no indie-rock Pandora radio station playing at Walter’s in Portland (soft jazz, mostly), no servers sporting flannel, and there’s not much for local art on the wall, but a place can still offer unexpectedly good bar deals and a gracious atmosphere without being young and cool.

Because let’s face it: Walter’s is not young and cool.

But what Walter’s is, has to do with taste, service, quality and, in the colder months especially, a warm place to dine.

“We have a very loyal crowd,” co-owner and general manager Cheryl Buerhaus said, “they are older locals and some younger people, but it’s sad because a lot of the younger people maybe go somewhere else – they don’t come to us.”

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Cheryl and husband/executive chef, Jeff, took over ownership of the well-established Walter’s at the original location on Exchange Street for five years before moving to its current spot across from the Hyatt Place in the Old Port.

Now, after five years at the present location, Cheryl says she’s heard many mixed opinions about the change.

“It’s an interesting transition when you try to make something your own that has been an institution – and it really is an institution,” Cheryl said. “We have people who have very fond memories of the old Walter’s on Exchange Street and there’s definitely a divide [between] ‘I like the new Walter’s’ and ‘I like the old Walter’s.'”

While dominated by warm yellows, browns and reds, the décor at Walter’s is regrettably stale and as Cheryl has heard all too many times, “hotel-ish.”

“I do believe the atmosphere intimidates [younger folks], which it shouldn’t,” Cheryl said, “but I think once you’re in there – especially on the bar/lounge side – it’s very warm and inviting.”

She’s right.

The first thing you notice in the bar area is the wine selection displayed prominently on the “wine wall,” with each bottle in their own individual cubby. Then it’s the soft yellow backlit bar with high-quality liquors on perfect display.

Drew (Cheryl and Jeff’s son) or Sean (also in the family) will be there to greet you with a genuineness that matches the underlying benevolence of Walter’s – the restaurant may resemble a hotel lounge, but it’s far from feeling like one.

What’s more, Walter’s doesn’t wave a high price tag for drinks and bar food. For instance, the cocktails are all $10, except for one that’s $11, and the wines by the glass are almost all $8, in addition to six beers on draft from $5 to $7.

(The cocktails, by the way, are well composed and delightful.)

But perhaps the most intriguing and unusual find at the bar is Walter’s unofficial “any wine under $100” deal.

“A lot of people don’t know that we’ll open any bottle under $100 if you can commit to two glasses,” Cheryl said. “We like to encourage people to try different wines.”

Cheryl doesn’t consider herself a wine connoisseur but she knows what she likes and isn’t afraid to advertise unfamiliar or experimental wines.

“The wine guys come in and they’re like ‘oh wow! You’re not afraid to put that up, are you?'” Cheryl said. “You can come in and try something that you may not ever choose to pick up in a store.”

The bar menu, a generous list of nearly 20 offerings that range in price from $4 (nuts & popcorn) to $18 (hanger steak, peeky toe crab cake, shredded chayote, bayou remoulade), is only offered in the bar/lounge area and is available starting at 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday and 5 p.m. Saturday. Bar guests are also encouraged to order from the regular menu.

Talking with Cheryl and hearing about her devotion to Walter’s for the past decade, you get the sense she’s in the business because she loves what she does. “We work really hard at what we do and we hope that everyone appreciates it,” she said.

When asked what her bottom-line is – what she wants guests to walk away with – she says, “I want them to have good service and good food – of course! And I want them to feel that the value is there for what they’re getting.”

More than anything else, Walter’s bar scene is perhaps one of the best values in town, which, despite its non-youngster appeal, is pretty darn cool.

Walter’s

WHERE: 2 Portland Square

PHONE: 207-871-9258

WEBSITE: www.waltersportland.com

HOURS: 11:30 a.m.- 2:30 p.m.Monday-Friday; 5-9 p.m.Monday-Thursday; 5-9:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Bar menu available 2:30-close Monday-Friday; 5-close​ Saturday

SPECIALS: Bar menu available in bar/lounge area; Any wine from bottle list under $100 can be opened if guest(s) commit to two glasses.

AMENITIES: Comfortable lounge seating, sturdy bar stools, dim lighting, copious coat hooks

PARKING: Free parking is available for customers after 5 p.m., Monday through Saturday at the “Two Portland Square” lot behind the restaurant. Validation for garages and lots participating in the Park & Shop program available.

BOTTOM LINE: Walter’s is a well-known Portland establishment that ironically flies somewhat under the radar. Business professionals and an older crowd dominate the restaurant, but this is not to say there aren’t great deals to be had and a warm, inviting atmosphere to experience. The cocktail and wine lists will not disappoint.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBLE: Yes