It’s late spring, 6 p.m. Golden hour is nigh. It’s too late for lemonade, too early for whiskey — spritz time on the dot.

Italy has been perfecting spritz hour for decades , and now #spritzlife (yes, it’s a hashtag) has fully bubbled up across the Atlantic, due in no small part to a 2017 marketing push from Aperol’s maker, Campari America: a coast-to-coast Aperol spritz campaign.

The drink possesses qualities that I can get behind. It’s effervescent, it’s extremely well iced and it is a shade of orange that rivals a “Planet Earth” sunset. It exists within the broader category of aperitifs, or aperitivos: the low-alcohol, often bitter-leaning drinks (as well as the bottles on which they are based) that are meant to prime your palate for the evening to come.

But there is a problem: The Aperol spritz isn’t actually good.

Served in branded, jumbo wine glasses, the sugary aperitif is paired with low-quality prosecco, soda water and an outsize orange slice, resulting in something that drinks like a Capri Sun after soccer practice on a hot day. Not in a good way.