As a watchmaker, one of the most common questions I get asked is, “What are the best tool kits to get?” The answer has two parts, the first, don’t buy a pre-made tool kit because the tools in them are generally junk. You risk damaging your more expensive watch or just having a tool that falls apart entirely. Sometimes they have a piece or two that’s good, but it’s always better to buy it alone. So don’t buy a tool kit, buy the tools individually. This way, you can get high quality tools (the first time around) and have a kit that is tailored to your needs and operations.

Then people ask, “Can you make me a tool kit?” this question also has two parts. The first, no, I cannot. I get asked this so often that creating tailor made kits for everyone who asked would soon become a full time job, but one where I don’t get paid. The second part is, I see it as a rite of passage. If you’re going to be working on your watch you’re going to need to be persistent, patient, and resourceful-if finding watchmaking tools on the Googles is too challenging, you’re gonna have a bad time when you get to your watch.

Where are we left when we’ve gotten past that point? There are lots of options for tools. You know what tools you need but you’re hamstrung by the choices. Expensive ones aren’t always good, cheap ones aren’t always bad-but the only way to find out is to buy them and find out. Luckily for you, I’ve used a lot of tools. For this guide, we’ll work our way up from the most basic tools which also happen to be some that you’ll use the most frequently-as a watchmaker or a hobbyist.

THE SPRINGBAR TOOL. I can assure you that over the years I have been through many, many springbar tools. Many of them had me saying things like, “what is this garbage?” or “the fuck is this? I can’t believe Bergeon actually made this!” or even, “yes, I use an $0.83 Chinese made springbar tool.”

What you’ll see next are the tools that don’t make me irrationally angry, that are quality, and are the end product of years of selective watchmaking forces.