John M. Vincent/The Oregonian

by Jamie Hale | The Oregonian, OregonLive

Oregon has no shortage of beautiful state parks, but when it comes to offering a wealth of natural beauty, accessible trails, camping options and local history, it's hard to do better than Fort Stevens.



Nestled into the northwest tip of the state, at the mouth of the Columbia River, Fort Stevens has enough attractions to fill several days, if not a full week. It's easy enough to take a day trip out past Astoria to the 4,300-acre state park, but once you're there you might regret not allotting more time.



Standing in contrast to some of the more tranquil shoreline found on the northern Oregon coast, Fort Stevens sits at what has been called the "graveyard of the Pacific" – and if you think that's hyperbole, just take a walk to the shipwreck that still haunts the park. It was also the site of the primary military defense system on the Columbia, which remained active from the Civil War through World War II.



All that history is on full display at Fort Stevens, connected to sandy beaches rife with wildlife by hiking and cycling trails that run through a sprawling campground with options for every season. It would be hard to hold up any one park above all others, but in that contest, Fort Stevens would be a strong contender. Here's what to see and do at the expansive state park.

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

Mouth of the Columbia River

The mouth of the mightiest river in the West does not disappoint. Wild and beautiful, the meeting of the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean is a place that has both confounded and awed. Early European explorers couldn't find the mouth of the river, and when they did, they struggled to enter it. Today, massive jetties ease maritime access, but between all the shipwrecks and wildlife that still occupy the river's shores, it remains a place of wild beauty.



Access: Lot D at the end of Jetty Road

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

South Jetty

The south jetty of the Columbia River is one of the most incredible sites on the Oregon coast. Stretching six miles into the massive mouth of the river, the jetty was constructed between 1885 and 1913, with rehabilitation done regularly ever since. An observation platform looks out over the jetty and makes a great place to watch storms – though if the weather is clear and the ocean is calm, you can climb onto the huge rocks of the jetty itself for a truly humbling experience.



Access: Lot C on Jetty Road

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Joshua Bessex/Daily Astorian via AP, File

Beach access

The ocean side of Fort Stevens State Park is one long sandy beach, perfect for lounging in the summer, watching incoming storms in the winter and digging for razor clams. Fairly tall dunes separate the beach from the road that runs the length of the park, and climbing to their crest affords good views down the coastline.



Access: Lots B and A on Jetty Road, and shipwreck day-use area

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

Wreck of the Peter Iredale

Easily the most iconic shipwreck on the Oregon coast – as well as the poster-child for the "graveyard of the Pacific" – the Wreck of the Peter Iredale has become the main attraction at Fort Stevens. Only the steel hull remains of the 275-foot sailing ship, which ran aground in 1906. The ship made it to the mouth of the Columbia River through a shroud of fog, but was turned around by a strong wind while waiting for a pilot, hitting the beach so hard that three of its four masts snapped on impact. Every year the shipwreck deteriorates a little more.



Access: Shipwreck day-use area, near campground

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

Campground

The Fort Stevens campground is one of the largest in the Oregon State Park system with more than 500 campsites, including 15 yurts and 11 deluxe cabins. It's set up to accommodate RVs, tents, hikers and cyclists all, and is conveniently located near the beach access and day-use area by the Peter Iredale shipwreck.



Access: Campground entrance to the park on N.W. Ridge Road

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

Batteries

Fort Stevens was an active military site between the Civil War and World War II, and in that time it amassed a number of artillery batteries – concrete bunkers that held cannons and massive guns to protect the coastline against potential invaders. While most of the guns have been removed, the ruins of the batteries remain, ghostly reminders of the threat of war on the Oregon coast.



Access: Historic area park entrance on N.W. Ridge Road, Battery Russel on Jetty Road

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

War Games Building

Originally used as a plotting room for the West Battery at Fort Stevens, the War Games Building also served as a dormitory for enlisted men, and housed the officers' quarters. Today, the building is a museum, visitors center and home to a small interpretive store.



Access: Historic area park entrance on N.W. Ridge Road

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

Hiking and cycling trails

Several miles of paved hiking and cycling trails run from the batteries to the beach, down to the shipwreck and alongside the campground. The trails make a quick loop around the heart of the park, giving visitors a good look at the variety Fort Stevens has to offer.



Access: Trailheads at the War Games Building, campground, Lot A and shipwreck day-use area.

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Terry Richard/The Oregonian

Coffenbury Lake

Coffenbury Lake is a small, narrow lake within the park boundaries, well-stocked with hatchery-raised rainbow trout. You can fish from docks and platforms on the north end of the lake, where the water is deeper and the lake a bit wider. It’s also a good spot to kayak or canoe, though the small size might be a downside for more experienced paddlers.

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Courtesy of Tiffany Boothe/Seaside Aquarium

Wildlife

Sitting at the mouth of the Columbia River, wildlife is naturally common in and around Fort Stevens. Salmon run down the river into the ocean, where sea lions often roam to feast on them. Bald eagles are common in the park, where they boss around smaller sea birds. And, notably, there’s the occasional invasion of tiny blueish sea creatures called Velella velella. You can find a wildlife blind at Lot D on the river, but keep your eyes peeled all around the area.

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Amy Wang/The Oregonian

Reenactments

This story originally included the long tradition of hosting Civil War reenactments at Fort Stevens, but the group that puts on the event has announced it will be relocating from the state park, effective this year.

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

NORTHWEST TRAVEL GUIDES

Winter on the Oregon coast: Summer is beautiful on the Oregon coast, but consider a visit in the winter, when stormy skies and big waves are king.

State history hikes: Oregon just celebrated its 159th birthday. Here are 14 hikes that trace the history of our state.

Oregon's best events: From the Pendleton Round-Up to the World Naked Bike Ride, these are the best annual events in Oregon.

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--Jamie Hale | jhale@oregonian.com | @HaleJamesB

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