The Beauty Shop, 966 South Cooper, Memphis, Tennessee:

We arrive back in town late after a jaunt to Graceland Too , the unmissable home of Elvis’s number one fan, over the border in Mississippi. We need proper, non-junk food. So we head to the gentrified East side of town. The Beauty Shop is quite a pricey eatery and cocktail bar but, hey, it was converted from the very beauty parlour Priscilla Presley used to frequent. You can dine under genuine retro hair dryers. I have the Scottish spotted salmon with new potatoes and heirloom cherry tomatoes. The portion is a little mean, but what a lovely Mediterranean contrast to the junk food-fest of late. Matt’s fillet mignon with maple bacon, black peppercorn and mustard seed crust is good, although do you really need to mess this much with a beautiful steak? And the truffle oil Parmesan fries are disgusting. Why, oh why, Americans, must you overdo it?