But in this latest stage of the country’s brewing identity, the tide is turning. As juicy, fruity, and tropical reign supreme, often through the haze of a New England-style IPA, Citra is quickly becoming a new North Star for brewers to follow. It was first tracked by the USDA with 98 acres in 2009, but Citra is now expected to reach a whopping 6,652 acres for harvest this year.

It will also be the first time it eclipses Cascade, projected to have almost 650 fewer acres than Citra.

A one-year flip-flop of a harvested raw ingredient can seem like a small blip in the scope of beer, and Cascade will easily be #2 in 2018 with 6,009 acres compared to 4,864 for #3 Centennial. However, looking at the broader scope of change in how America’s prized style has taken the country—and world—by storm, the ascent of Citra to top-hop status almost seems telegraphed.