Building your Glock

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Dimension Description Austrian millimeters FD 1 Frame rail width 22.89-22.91 FD 2 Frame inside rail width 19.19-19.33 FD 3 Frame rail thickness 1.2 - 1.4 FD 4 Frame rail length 10.1 - 10.2

Dimension Description Austrian millimeters SD 1 Slide groove outer width ~1.2 SD 2 Slide groove between 1.58 (go) and 1.63 (nogo) SD 3 Slide major width ~22.7 SD 4 Slide minor width ~20.05

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Achtung: check your local laws and make sure that you can legally assemble and possess a high capacity pistol. Also check related laws, you may not legally drink on Sunday, vote or have sex with a person of different race.Here is everything you need to assemble the Iron Glock frame:I am starting with the Marigold-1 kit from A-r-m-u-s.com It's a collectionAof random bits of bent sheet metal that could be made into a sculpture of a marigold, a kitten or Diane Feinstein's twisted brain (althogh I'm not sure that she's got one ... well at least not in her head)I know, you just need an excuse to say to yourself that you can never build a real pistol, that "your hands are tooled for a dick only" and cry yourself to sleep. Well, guess what, this is a kit build and therefore you can build exactly the same pistol (minus unicorns or ivory grips, I contracted child soldiers to kill the last elephants in Africa)If you have questions ask, if you need more pictures ask. If you live within a reasonable driving distance and need help to build it I will come and drink all your vodka, puke everywhere, scare your neighbors with loud music and hide stripper's panties in the places where only your wife will find them ... but we will build damned pistols and you'll like it.Also, I need a Glock LPK lower kit. These are available from a lot of different places. Get an older 22 replacement kit and stay away from 17 kits. Although they are almost identical, 22 is much more beafy and can cycle both .40 and 9mm., while 17kit may not.shit, I know people will ask this, justing google "glock complete lower receiver replacement kit" and order an older kit for G22 (usually works for 35 and 31)Keep in mind that most Glock parts are plastic and sharp metal will shave that plastic. Make sure that places where plastic rubs are smoothed out with fine grit sandpaper or polished ... or... have a beerLet's look at the actual Glock slide:and from behindthe slide goes onto rails (g17 and 22 shown)You need to grind the fore-piece to replicate this experience for your slide. Here is the fore-piece that comes from a kit (right) and completed (rails ground, left)The piece from the kit has rails that are too big to "readily" fit into the slide, among other things. To grind those rails I like to use small grinder simply because it takes off very little material at a time. Since no one was ever been able to cut shit any longer, you got one shot at grinding the rails right.Go slow and check the rails against the slide often. Keep in mind that rails are slightly thicker than they should be. Work on width first.Don't try to jam the fore-piece into the slide by bending the top ends. It should slide in easy yet not fall out. When you think that you got the width right, use small hand file to adjust thickness. You should always file the rails from under, never from the top, since the top surface of the fore-piece should be flat and even across the entire piece.When rails are ground correctly, you can slide them all the way forward. Mission completed!Here are some dimensions that you may find useful. Keep in mind that there is some variation in slides, especially aftermarket slides.Fit the locking blockThe only part from LPK that you need to permanently modify is the locking block. You need to make it 1mm narrower, just enough to fit in the fore-piece. You need to take about 0.5 mm on each side, making sure that you do it uniformly. A grinding wheel has some curviature and is usually too coarse. I use belt sender to do this. It works well. Check you fit often. Make sure that you don't try to force the block into the fore-piece, spreading it apart. It's sized just right to go inside your typical slide, so spreading it will not allow slide to move freely.Also, the bottom of the fore-piece is not perfectly square but somewhat curvy. The locking block must sit flush, right on the bottom. Thus, you may need to make the end of the fore-piece square by using square hand file or round the bottom of the locking block ever so slightly.Locking block is being held in the frame with a pin that goes into the hole. There should be at least one hole. But it's like during that Thai vacation, if you find the second one, you are better off.Drilling the hole must be done really precisely which you'll never be able to do. So when you are marking, err on the side of pull - i.e. toward lower midsection. That way you can widen or expand the hole later, with pin still pulling the block down to the frame.Here is a jig to accomplish marking of the hole. I start with some carbide tile blades (usually come in 2) and some M6 bolts to fit the hole, some M6 washers, plus a 3"x3" plate to mount these on.Putting jig together is pretty easy, use some washers as spacers between the carbide blade and the steel plate. To increase distance add washer, to decrease distance, hammer one of the washers with a hammer. Do it until you get the distance perfect.Here is the jig assembled:This is how you mark the fore-piece, by darkening the spot with a black marker, than dragging it over the blade.What you end up with is perfectly marked sides:The only other question is how to determine what distance you need to set the marks at? Use micrometer, measure the thickness of the metal, should be about 1.44mm, then add the distance to the center of the hole. Set that distance and see how well the jig marks the distance by marking a piece of scrap. You need to err slightly toward either edge.Grind rails similar to how you did the fore-piece.The aft-piece will hold the trigger mechanism housing, keeping it to the left. You will be welding it to the midsection, so make sure that the housing is just the right size. Your piece from the kit will be slightly over-sized and you will need to file it down to just the right size on both edges. When you tack it to the mid-piece, the weld joints will pull it tight and the housing should not be loose.From step 2, you should see how the trigger mechanism housing suppose to fit in the aft piece. What's remaining is to drill a hole to hold it in place. Support the sides with a bunch of popsicle sticks to keep sides from squishing.The drill bit that you need is #31