Sustainable living, a welcoming culture, unforgettable people... the island offers experiences for every kind of traveller

Julia Roberts’ Eat, Pray, Love is a conversation starter as I sip on my Balinese coffee at the Green Village. The film, based on Elizabeth Gilbert’s memoir, was shot not too far from where I am, at Ubud, a 40-minute drive away. It is raining buckets and I am glad to be at the All Bamboo Tree house, a village of luxury bamboo villas. Located along Bali’s river Ayung in Abiansemal, the Green Village is one of the top stays listed on Airbnb.

The villas stand tall amidst coconut groves. Sustainable living is the philosophy here. The swimming pool is fed by the river. An organic garden supplies papaya, banana, vegetables, and greens. Tucked in my bed, I can see the expanse of the forest unfolding outside. And the gurgle of the river and the chirping of birds and insects never seem to stop. The bamboo hut gives you the comforts of a luxury stay (great Wi-Fi connection), yet keeps you close to Nature. The bathrooms have a huge copper tub but there are no walls — it’s like taking a shower in the middle of a jungle.

Charming Ubud

In the evening, we brave the rains to visit the market at Ubud. Rows of shops sell dream catchers, silver jewellery, bamboo chimes and Buddha figurines. I try my luck at bargaining and buy trendy silver earrings for 200,000 rupiah (approximately ₹ 1,000). After home-made breads, Sangria, and corn samosas for dinner at Batubara, an Argentinian restaurant, we call it a day.

Next morning, I am treated to the awe-inspiring Tanah Lot. Dedicated to Lord Varuna, the temple is several thousand years old and stands on a sea rock overlooking the Indian Ocean. Non-Balinese are not allowed to enter the temple. Komang, our driver, who is dressed up for the occasion in a traditional Balinese dress, says the temple was built by his ancestors as a thanksgiving for a safe journey from Java to Bali. There are several shrines alongside and a maze of souvenir shops too. At one of the shrines, I see a wave of people, all dressed in white (the traditional attire for ceremonies). “We believe in re-incarnation. The ritual in progress is to take the soul of a dead family member from the ocean back to the family temple,” he explains.

Food fad

There are frangipani blooms that have fallen on the roads, and the sidewalks are lined with small bamboo baskets with rice and yellow marigold, white, red and blue flowers, given as an offering to the gods. “In Bali, 90% of the population follows the Hindu faith. We still follow the Balinese calendar, according to which we are in 1938. Every month has 35 days,” says Komang. Ubud is also green with paddy fields. “ Red, white, and black rice is our staple, and we eat it for all three meals. Arrack, made from fermented palm sugar, is our local drink,” says Komang.

We tour the Green School campus the following day, which is thankfully sunny, and have lunch at Locavore restaurant, where we savour some of the best fare made with local produce. We try our hand at cooking native banana flower curry at a workshop, dabble in creating perfumes and head for some more shopping at Seminyak Square.

We also eat a meal at MamaSan Bali, known for its Southeast Asian cuisine (it was opened by celebrity chef Will Meyrick). Over zesty limoncello martini, I dig into chow mein noodles tossed with tofu, bean sprouts, bok choy, and served with a sprinkling of crushed peanut. The stir-fried Asian greens pack a punch, while the stir-fried tofu with red and green capsicum in hot chilli bean tastes wholesome.

Step back

If it is Bali, there has to be a spa, and an evening spent at the luxury Prana Spa is 120 minutes of bliss. My feet and lower legs are washed and cleansed with rose petal and peppermint water, before they are scrubbed with sea salt. That is followed by a back, neck, and shoulder massage, using Swedish and Balinese techniques that takes all my weariness away. A foot massage and a facial leave me relaxed and happy.

Candle-lit dinner is at Potato Head Beach Club. We lounge by the pool, watching the rushing waves. The place is packed with people and has a friendly vibe, with great music. Then there is a tequila-infused Balinese arrack to loosen us up. There are garlic breads, a home-baked dish called rotolo made from Bali-alm ricotto, zucchini, spinach, tomato sauce, basil, parmesan and olive oil…

Suksma (thank you) Bali, till we meet again.

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The writer was in Bali at the invitation of Airbnb