Signage for McDonald Territory went up in 1961. (Courtesy of the St. Louis Post-Dispatch)

The curvy, scenic roads of McDonald County — and maps that showed them — were great cause for concern in the 1960s. In fact, they nearly directed drivers to another state.

But it wasn’t a misprint that caused the map’s misdirect. It was a decision by Missouri officials to omit several tourism-driven McDonald County communities from a map.

The decision so riled McDonald County folks that they seceded from the state.

For several months, the area temporarily became known as McDonald Territory. Signs were erected to let visitors know where they were — and even visas were “required” to cross the border from Missouri into this new land.

Although the secession began out of passion and not publicity, it ultimately resulted in what residents wanted: tourism.

“It had real meaning to the people of McDonald County,” wrote Patric Stevens about the period of secession. “The territorial uprising will be regarded in history as a time when a small community organized and made the statement, ‘We count, too. We don’t want government without representation.'”

How it started

The series of state “stick-its” to McDonald County began in 1960, when U.S. 71 was rerouted east of Noel. The change took the highway away from several of the area’s resorts and tourist areas, causing great alarm.

A few months later brought insult to injury: The State Highway Department omitted three of McDonald County’s most popular tourist towns. Already riled, the omission was too much for the local townsfolk to take sitting down.

In 1960s-terms, it’s easy to see why folks were so upset. According to newspaper reports, tourism was the area’s second-leading industry. In an era before internet and Trip Advisor, things such as maps were crucial to local livelihoods.

Z.L. McGowan, president of the Noel Chamber of Commerce, wrote a letter to the governor of Missouri asking about the omission on April 6. The next day, the governor issued a reply:

“I am extremely sorry about the omission of Pineville and Noel, but this office had nothing to do with preparing these maps and I would suggest you contact the Chief Engineer of the State Highway Department.”

The chief highway engineer was copied on the letter. It’s unclear if the engineer immediately replied to the group — he eventually did in newspaper articles, where he said the omission was intentional since they didn’t want to include places that had many commercial ventures — local folks took things into their own hands.

“I remember my parents being very upset about that change, and they were really (upset) when they left us off the state tourist map,” says Don Mosbaugh, whose parents owned Shady Beach Resort near Noel.

“My parents were on the chamber of commerce in Noel, and during their first meeting, they were wondering what to do about it.”

Wilma Mosbaugh, however, had an idea.

“My mother said, ‘We should secede from the union,'” recalls her son. “They caught up on that theme and it went wild from there.”

Declaring independence

Less than a week after the governor’s reply was issued, the succession of McDonald County was making headlines across the country.

“Signs proclaiming ‘Welcome to McDonald Territory’ will be erected on roads in the northern part of the county Wednesday, said Z.L. McGoawn, president of the Noel Chamber of Commerce,” printed the Hays Daily News in Kansas.

Similar articles appeared in the pages of papers in Delaware, Wisconsin, Indiana, Michigan, New Jersey, Florida, Louisiana, Oklahoma, Iowa, Texas, Kentucky, Connecticut, Tennessee, Alabama, Illinois and Ohio.

Ideas also quickly emerged on what could become of the recently liberated land.

Annexation into Arkansas was suggested. It was also proposed that it simply become its own state, a concept preserved in the Austin American newspaper in Texas:

“Wednesday, in the state legislature at Jefferson City, the senator from McDonald County in which Noel is located proposed a committee be set up to study the feasibility of creating a 51st state comprised of McDonald County, Benton County in Arkansas and Delaware County in Oklahoma.

“The proposal was shunted off to a committee for ‘deep and tender study.'”

Native Americans also quickly offered their support.

“McDonald County residents, hopping mad over having their resort cities left off the official Missouri vacation map, were invited Monday to give the area back to the Indians,” noted pages of the Daily News, which said the suggestion came jovially from Henry Suagee of the Cherokee tribe of nearby Jay, Okla.

Suagee was referred to as chief in many newspaper articles. However, the Post-Dispatch says he was the only individual of 100-percent-Cherokee descent in the area — so the territory decreed him a chief.

Springfield Daily News; April 15, 1961

It was even suggested that the territory even become its own country. If such a thing were to happen, the Springfield Daily News explained, its new government would petition United Nations for $4 billion in foreign aid relief.

Before the final fate of the area could be decided — a decision most likely considered by the hastily formed “congress” comprised of county mayors — other elements of the territory were being enacted.

Officials were given roles in a new government structure. McGowan, the chamber president, became the territory’s leader, a local senator became secretary of state, the local newspaper editor was named press secretary to the president, mayor-elect of Noel was vice president of the territory.

State leaders also got in on the action.

“Missouri’s Gov. John Dalton appointed Robert Welborn, his administration assistant, ambassador to the Territory,” recorded the St. Louis Post-Dispatch. “Gov. Dalton said his worry was whether ‘McDonald county is ahead of us in the space program.’ Dalton diplomatically did not specify what space he meant, outer space or newspaper space.”

Visas were printed for visitors, as were stamps.

“The seals were added to letters sent out from the Noel Post Office, but were given out for free for the advertisement,” says Mosbaugh, whose father printed both the visas and stamps through his printing company. “On the back side of the visas, he had Z.L. McGowan sign it, because he was the newly elected territorial president.”

“Visas” were needed for entry to McDonald Territory.

But one of the most visible parts of the territory was its border patrol.

“Their main duty was to guard against any influx of ‘revenooers’ and unwanted aliens. Dressed in ridiculous mountain garb and carrying priceless old muzzle-loading rifles, the men would go down in secession history as the roughest, toughest, brush-jumping hillbillies ever to crawl out of the deep, dark caves of the Ozark mountains,” noted an account of the secession activities. “Time after time, these fun-loving, wise-cracking border guards appeared on television, newscasts, and private parties and blow outs to put on their act and the people.”

Border patrol (Courtesy of the McDonald County Historical Society)

“The border guards were wined and dined, interviewed and photographed with the frequency of movie idols. Organizations, visiting dignitaries, conventions, tourists and reunions flocked to the territory for the privilege of being heckled and mauled around by the colorful guards. These mountain men were naturals, and gave a great performance wherever they went. Carrying their muzzle loaders and high stepping along in their mountaineer gear, they gave a hilarious, if not ridiculous, picture of what an Ozark hillbilly was supposed to be.”

They even had a silver 1930 Ford truck with a star and the words “McDonald County Border Patrol” painted on its side.

The battle of secession

Those border guards were central to one of the biggest publicity stunts tied to the secession: A battle between them and Jasper County troops from the United Sons of the Union and Confederacy, a historical organization, who suggested the groups battle for victory.

It was pointed out by the Jasper County group that they were keenly aware — as the site (Carthage) of the first Civil War battle fought west of the Mississippi River — of the effects of secession, division and disunity. It was their opinion that McDonald Territory rejoin the community of Missouri counties.

“But, if it did not, the only alternative is to ‘dispatch the combined Union and Confederate armies of Spring River to suppress the rebellion and take the leader of the insurrection into custody,” noted the Sunday News and Leader.

The territory didn’t heed the warning — so battle ensued.

Originally, the groups planned to fight in Pineville, which is the county seat of McDonald. But the sheriff ordered them away, so they retreated to Noel.

“The McDonald County sheriff insisted the courthouse lawn was no place for such shenanigans,” noted the Austin Statesman newspaper in Texas. “McDonald County might have seceded, he said, but the courthouse still belonged to the state of Missouri.”

The mock battle raged between the groups until traffic became so crazed that the Missouri State Highway Patrol was summoned to help steer the rapidly increasing traffic. One account says that 4,000 people crowded into the tiny town to witness the battle.

“In the mock warfare that followed, McDonald territory had one moment of glory,” noted the Statesmen newspaper. “Its forces captured two ‘generals’ of the invading forces, Gene Crawford and Bennett Wilson. Militiamen were about to clap them into the Noel calaboose when a party of raiders from the Jasper County army rescued the two.”

Ultimately, the mock battle resulted in a Jasper County win — and an official surrender of McDonald County back into Missouri.

“We had some citizens worried about possible loss of their old age pension and other state and federal aid, so all thought it best to withdraw secession petitions,” noted McGowan, chamber (and territory) president in the newspaper.

But then came 1962.

“The 1962 state tourist map was issued last week, and much to the surprise of territorial residents, Noel and other scenic resort communities were again missing,” reported the Neosho Daily News in February 1962. “The new map, in an apparent effort to avoid the controversy that raged a year ago, confined listings to the commercial caves and areas, such as state parks, which have been developed by the state.

“The McDonald Territory natives again are restless and indications are that it won’t be too long before another uprising will be staged.”

Before the end of the month, McDonald folks were reaching out to Arkansas.

“Territory President Dan Harmon said this morning that a letter would go out to (Arkansas) Gov. Faubus today asking him to enter into negotiations with Missouri Governor John Dalton to annex the territory to the state of Arkansas,” printed the Neosho Daily News. A second article featured his thoughts as well:

“When asked what would be the reaction if the petition were taken seriously, Mr. Harmon replied, ‘I think it would be the finest thing that could happen.'”

McDonald County (err, Territory) never officially left the state of Missouri. However, the end of secession efforts didn’t end the area’s attraction for visitors.

For years after, the “territory” was referred to in ads and promotions. A land rush was held. The McDonald Territory Fishing Derby drew interest. McDonald Territory was often included on ads for attractions in the area.

In July 1963, the border patrol was revived. Its members began boarding trains passing through the area to issue travel visas to those aboard the train, much to the delight of tourists.

“According to Kansas City Southern trainmen, this weekly stunt was the talk of the line,” says the historical account of the secession. “People flocked to the train rides, which, of course, made the railroad officials, as well as the Territory, very happy. Many of the passengers got off the train at Noel and stayed until the train came back through the town. They stayed just to be hassled and entertained by the grinning border guards. Most of these passengers were older women who got a big kick out of being hugged and flattered by the wise-cracking border guards.”

As time passed, so did the territorial description. One of the last uses of it seems to have come in 1973, when a columnist in the Neosho Daily News mentioned it with regard to the sheriff:

“Down in McDonald Territory, the sheriff keeps a goat at the jail. It is not a large goat, but was incarcerated for playing havoc with a taxpayer’s property.”

The McDonald Territory exhibit at the McDonald County Historical Museum.

Today, much of the memories from territory time are held at the McDonald County Historical Museum. The display’s home exists in an odd twist of irony.

During the rebellion, such as it was, the building wasn’t the museum.

It was the courthouse, where the long-ago sheriff ran off battle-fighters because it wasn’t the proper place to “war” for the territory’s independence.

Want to learn more?

More information about the McDonald County Historical Society may be found via its website or Facebook page.

Ozarks guidebook now available

“Passport to the Ozarks,” a guidebook of 61 off-the-beaten-path places to see in southwest Missouri, is now available to preorder! The book is only $25 (with free shipping) and features photos and short stories about the destinations.

It’s the perfect book to take on a road trip, give as a gift, or simply read to learn more about the Ozarks. A few examples of destinations include Topaz Mill, Steak Inn, McClurg Jam, Cooky’s Cafe and many more.

Click here to order your copy!

Resources

“County receives ‘invasion’ threat,” Great Bend Tribune, April 17, 1961

“Give McDonald County back to Indians, chief suggests,” Springfield Daily News, April 11, 1961

“First shot in Noel draws blood,” The Camden News, April 17, 1961

“Inside McDonald Territory,” Patric Stevens

“Jasper Countians take part in tongue-in-cheek war,” Sunday News and Leader, April 16, 1961

“McDonald ‘Territory’ sets up government,” Springfield Daily News, April 12, 1961

“‘McDonald Territory’ up in arms,” The Austin American, April 13, 1961

“Obiter Dicta,” Harlan Stark, Neosho Daily News, Feb. 25, 1973

“Plans to revive border patrol,” Neosho Daily News, July 15, 1963

“Rebel McDonald area ‘saved’ for Missouri,” The Austin Statesman, April 27, 1961

“Restored ‘patrol truck’ recalls 1961 secession of county,” Dan Townsend, The McDonald County Press, no date (volume 41)

“Territory is unhappy,” Neosho Daily News, Feb. 19, 1962

“Territory plans to petition Arkansas Gov.,” Neosho Daily News. Feb. 21, 1962

“They’re still kickin’ in Noel,” The Hays Daily News, April 11, 1961

“Why Missouri county ‘seceded,'” Jack Rice, St. Louis Post-Dispatch, April 23, 1961

Letter, John M. Dalton, April 7, 1961