Authored by The Herp Father John F. Taylor & Pete “The Guv’nor” Hawkins

Six Essentials of Reptile (Winter) Heating

There are Six ‘essential elements’ when it comes to reptile heat. These must never be overlooked.

Thermostat rated for the amount of wattage you will be using

Ceramic heat element rated for the size of your enclosure

Ceramic socketed shroud rated for the wattage of your heater

Under tank heater of appropriate size for your enclosure

Surge protector rated for the amount of power you will be using

Laser or infrared non-contact thermometer capable of measuring and holding a temperature history

Temperature is constant within herpetoculture. More often than not, it’s a misunderstood concept and a leading cause of reptiles suffering in a captive environment. To fully understand temperature, we must define the terms used when speaking of heating reptiles.

Ambient temperature is the overall internal temperature of the enclosure. Ambient temperature is taken by measuring the temperatures at either end and the center of the enclosure. Add the three temperatures together, divide by the number three and this will be your average ambient temperature.

Basking temperature refers to the temperature of what’s known as the basking spot. This is where the reptile will bask. Depending on species requirements, this can be anywhere from ten to thirty degrees warmer than ambient temperature.

Temperature gradient is another term many new keepers may be unfamiliar with. Temperature gradient refers to the rise in temperature from the ‘cool’ end of the enclosure to the basking spot. We provide a temperature gradient within the enclosure to simulate the natural environment. In other words, the three readings described above are or rather should increase from one end to the other. This is known as the ‘temperature gradient’

Cold blooded doesn’t truly describe reptiles in nature. The sun moves across the surface of the earth and certain areas (rocks, branches, or other points) will become warmer than others. These are sought out by reptiles both in the wild and in captivity where responsible keepers recreate naturalistic and or bioactive terraria. In the simplest definition reptiles bask in order to warm themselves, not only to aid in digesting their food, but also for the purpose of being able to move at all. For a more in-depth treatise on reptiles and heat see Explaining Ectothermy by Christina Miller.

Heating Technology & Reptiles

Today we have more options than ever for keeping our pets healthy and heat is no exception. Technology and forward thinking companies such as Zoo Med have made incredible advances in heating our reptiles.

The reason for so many ‘tools’ used in temperature control within the captive environment is simple really; we humans, don’t like change. Many of the products available to reptile keepers today are in fact very archaic, they’re still manufactured because people are used to using them and will buy them. This of course leads to confusion with new reptile keepers.

Many reptiles have very specific requirements when it comes to heating. Companies like Zilla recognize this as does Zoo Med Laboratories and our other sponsors here on Reptile Apartment. Providing for those requirements involves making a choice of the varying products available to the reptile keeper. In this article I will outline a few of the products and their strengths and weaknesses. When it comes down to efficacy and function, there’s little, if any argument about using ceramic heat emitters and under tank heaters. In conjunction, there are no better heat source(s) keep in mind of course this is with the understanding, I don’t support ‘rack system’ housing.

Thermostats

Before getting into the specific heating elements to be used, I cannot stress enough the key element of thermostats. When heating any species of reptile pet, you must use a thermostat for each heating device. Thermostats for reptile care are very similar to the thermostats within our homes. Meaning we ‘set and forget’ relying on them to maintain the necessary temperature without us interfering any further. The type of thermostat I recommend are pulse proportional thermostats and these differ from other thermostats available in their design. A regular thermostat will cause the heating element to come on and remain on until the element achieves the desired temperature. When the element reaches the set temperature the thermostat then shuts the device off completely. Imagine if you will continuously flipping a light switch on and off, the light bulb will burn out faster than if it was simply left on. Pulse proportional thermostats send a continuous pulse of electricity to keep the heating element at exactly the prescribed temperature. This saves both energy and allows the heating element to last longer. There is a newer product out from iStat which is based in the UK and we hope to be reviewing them soon.

High-Range Dimming Stat

These are the easiest to use for many reptiles requiring a higher basking temperature, ie; Bearded Dragons.

Standard dimming thermostats should be fine with Chameleon’s. High range dimming thermostats can also work here as they go to a higher temperature, so the probe can be placed directly on the basking spot. Just set the Stat to 30/32c, and the actual basking spot is now safely controlled. The bulb will dim once 30/32c is reached. Thus cooling the viv, and keeping your vivarium from overheating. To get the optimal temperature you may need a variety of bulbs (wattage). In mine I’m using 40w Halogens. But in the summer, I often have to change these to 25w just so I can keep a basking spot lit up. Tweaking with the above method, the basking spot can be reached with full confidence your vivarium won’t overheat and the cool (safe) end is always available to your Chameleon.

If you have already secured your bulb to your viv, then you can still tweak those temperatures by altering the height of the basking spot. This could simply be moving the chosen basking item (root, branch etc.) or, if in a mesh viv, raising the basking spot bulb will reduce basking surface temp by moving the heat intensity further away.

Problems: You may be having issues with the bulb always going dim. Basically what is happening is the temperature is getting to the temperature you set the dimming stat dial to in the area you have the thermostat probe. You can solve this by using a lower wattage bulb. As believe it or not, a 30w/40w bulb burns brighter at say 50% power than a 60/100w bulb. A lower wattage bulb will get to the ideal temp slightly slower, but it’s safer.

Ceramic Heat Emitters

Ceramic heat emitters as shown in the photo are heating elements which provide no light but provide an incredible amount of heat for such a compact device. The ceramic heat emitters or CHE as they are often referred to should be used only with a ceramic socketed shroud or reflector. If you use a CHE with a plastic socketed reflector or shroud the heat of the CHE will most likely melt the socket itself because the CHE is so efficient at heat output.

I won’t go into the entirety of why you shouldn’t use colored lights with your reptile except to say the following.

Regardless of prior ‘reports’, reptiles can in fact see the colored lights we are told to use for night-time heating. This means reptiles are not allowed to achieve a regular sleep cycle because the light keeps them from achieving normal circadian rhythms.

For more on this you can read Colored Lights and other Myths the Reptile Store Told Me.

Under Tank Heaters

Under Tank Heaters , for the most part are considered supplemental heating elements. However, keepers can and do use them exclusively for lizards and other terrestrial species. Other keepers use them to supplement overhead heating element of their choice. They work well in either application, as always we recommend they be used in conjunction with a proper thermostat. I’ve seen reports over the last few years of under tank heaters being used and the heaters being blamed for burning the belly of reptiles. After investigating many of these claims, it was learned the keeper didn’t use a thermostat as is always directed.

Surge Protector/Timer

Thermostats or any electrical device should always be plugged into a surge protector/timer

and a working smoke detector must always be in the same room with any reptile(s). While humans can be incredibly advanced we are still fallible and mistakes happen. Some mistakes can lead to a fire breaking out. Not to mention the fact, reptiles or even other pets have also been known to knock over heating elements.

Laser Temperature Thermometers

Most of the current thermometers available today are archaic devices. These devices are incapable of giving an accurate reading of the temperature within the enclosure. Whether you’re using a digital or analog device to measure the thermal gradient of your reptile’s enclosure is relevant. You can read my review on some available devices Reptile Thermometer: Analog Vs. Digital

We must clearly understand, when a temperature device is affixed to the glass or side of the enclosure it can only read a certain fixed area of temperature. A device stuck to the glass while reading some of the temperature around it, is more likely reading the temperature of the item it’s attached to. For example the sticker type thermometers are by design incapable of reading the basking temperature where the reptile is because it’s physically attached to the glass. This same idea goes with any device whether analog or digital.

There are thermometers with a probe which can be placed at various points within enclosure to give much better readings about what specific temperatures are occurring. But these are also inefficient when it comes to truly getting the best idea for temperature within an enclosure setting. I personally use and recommend the use of either an infrared temperature gun or even a laser sighted temperature device. These devices are easy to use and much more accurate than anything else available today. These devices can be directed at any given surface and measure the temperature accurately within roughly plus or minus one degree. When compared to the other thermometers the difference in accuracy is very obvious.

Saving Dollars and a Life

Now you have a better idea of how and what to use when it comes to heating your scaly friends. The same techniques can and should be used for amphibians and invertebrate pets as well. Using the above tools will not only save you money in their efficiency but also may even save the life of your pet. Inefficient heating is the number one cause of respiratory ailments in our reptile pets and these can lead to very costly veterinary visits or even worse the death of our beloved reptile friends.



