François Mitterrand, left, always had a pot of the finest caviar to offer guests

François Mitterrand ate caviar by the spoonful, Jacques Chirac dined on snails and Nicolas Sarkozy demanded a permanent supply of coffee ice cream.

However, the gastronomic extravagance long associated with the French presidency has disappeared amid “paranoia” about bad publicity gripping François Hollande’s administration, according to a new book.

The publication by Bernard Vaussion, who spent 40 years involved in the cuisine of the Élysée Palace, including eight as head chef, provides an illustration of the extraordinary gluttony within the corridors of power.

Under Mr Chirac, the foie gras in sauterne jelly was followed by quails braised in champagne with fresh morel mushrooms and accompanied by such wines as a 1988 Château Mouton Rothschild and a 1995 Pérignon champagne.

In contrast, Mr Hollande has banished