Back during World War II, when the Gravenstein apple was not considered an heirloom variety, apple sauce made from them fed the American armed forces . There were more than 10,000 acres of Gravensteins grown in California in those days, now down to about 700 acres in Sonoma County, Calif. It’s an early season apple, available for just two weeks in August. Boxes of the tart-sweet red and green-skinned apples are now available nationally, with 16 percent of the price going to support research to increase harvests.

Gravenstein apples, conventionally grown and organic ($3 more), $30 for 16 to $89 for 48, fruitguys.com/gravenstein, 877-629-6496.

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