Mr Renzi’s referendum is the first electoral test of an EU government since Brexit. He argues that the constitutional changes would allow him to get on with economic reforms. Brussels, despite clashing with Italy over austerity, is hoping for a “yes” that would deliver a much-needed confidence boost. A “no” could set off a fresh round of market turbulence and signal, yet again, that the Eurozone’s politics are hindering recovery at every turn.

On the face of it, Matera should be a success story for Europe. Just seventy years ago, over 20,000 peasants lived here in ancient caves, plagued by malnutrition, trachoma and malaria.

The peasants were moved out after the war and for decades, the caves lay empty. Then, spurred by a flood of EU grants and from Mel Gibson’s decision to film The Passion of the Christ here, they started to become a tourist attraction. Now, the picturesque town, spread along the top of a deep, dusty gorge, is touted as a “hidden gem” in travel guides and Eurocrats have deigned to award it Capital of Culture status for 2019.