Confit preparations originated as a means of preserving meats without the use of refrigeration. The centuries-old process of making duck confit hasn’t evolved much for the simple reason that our ancestors realized it would be dumb to try to improve upon something that’s already perfect. And dumb it would have been. The biggest improvement is relatively recent. Sous-vide machines like SousVide Supreme gave us more control over the temperatures – which is crucial for the break down of the collagen in the legs – while using far less fat than the conventional method because the legs are sealed in a vacuum bag with much less volume to fill.

The step of curing the legs which was once a necessity to keep them from spoiling is an integral part of what makes this dish so great. The mixture of salt, pepper and herbs flavors, tenderizes and help release the excess moisture from the meat. After curing for 24 hours the duck legs are washed in cold running water and vacuum sealed with some duck fat. Just a few tablespoons are necessary when using the sous-vide method. Or none at all if the duck legs are fatty enough.

The conventional method requires you to have anywhere from a few quarts to a bathtub of duck fat. Not that you would see me complain about a bathtub of duck fat.

Since the Sous Vide Supreme was already in use I vacuum-sealed some pears with pomegranate molasses and added the pouches to the water bath. They’re sweet and tart and cut through the richness of the duck confit quite nicely, and with a little salad of mache, walnuts and shaved pecorino on the side this makes next to the perfect meal.

What to drink with duck confit? Duck is one of those dishes that has such intense flavor that its accompaniments are usually on the lighter side. Red wines from the Rhone and whites and reds from Burgundy tend to compliment it well, additionally the off-dry whites from Germany tend to be a good pairing. If you like the Southern Rhone or a fine Burgundy you won’t be disappointed.

Sous-Vide Duck Confit w/ Poached Pear and Mache

Serves 6

For the sous-vide duck confit: 6 large Pekin duck legs 3/4 cup kosher salt 1 1/2 tablespoons black peppercorn, crushed 2 cloves garlic, crushed 2 bay leaves, crumbled 1 teaspoon thyme leaves 1 1/2 cup duck fat For the pomegranate poached pears 3 pears, peeled and halved 3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses 3 tablespoons water juice of 1 lemon pinch of black pepper For the mache salad: mache salad olive oil sherry vinegar salt and pepper toasted walnuts shaved pecorino pomegranate seeds(optional) For the sous-vide duck confit: In a bowl, mix the salt with the crushed peppercorns, garlic, bay leaves and the thyme. Put the duck legs in a large, shallow container and sprinkle them all over with the salt mixture. Cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. Fill and preheat the sous-vide machine to 75’C (167’F) Rinse the legs and dry them thoroughly with paper towels. Package the legs in pairs and add 3 to 4 tablespoons of duck fat per pouch. Using a vacuum sealer, seal the bags on high. Place the pouches in the water bath and cook for 10 hours. Cool rapidly the pouches in ice water and refrigerate until ready to use. In a heavy-bottomed skillet, crisp up the duck confit on the skin side. Place in a 375’F oven until heated through. Serve with the pomegranate poached pear and mache salad. For the pomegranate poached pears: Vacuum-seal the pears with the pomegranate syrup, the water, the lemon juice and a pinch of black pepper. Cook sous-vide for 2 to 3 hours, or until tender. For the mache salad: Toss the mache salad with sherry vinegar and olive oil, to taste. Season with salt and pepper. Add the toasted walnuts, shaved pecorino and pomegranate. Serve with the crisp duck confit.

