Not until the late 1950s and ’60s, when Dr. Konstantin Frank, a refugee from Ukraine, arrived in the region, did some growers try to demonstrate that vinifera grapes could flourish there. One reason they believed in the region was the lakes themselves. The Finger Lakes are among the deepest in North America, which largely keeps them from freezing. In the winters, the temperature of the lakes moderates the harsh cold, protecting dormant vines. In the summer, the lakes cool the surrounding vineyards.

The success of Dr. Frank and Hermann J. Wiemer, another pioneer, demonstrated that the Finger Lakes could indeed produce fine wine, but it really wasn’t until after the turn of the century, and the arrival of a new generation of producers, that quality seemed to take off.

Not surprisingly, we found many highs and lows in the tasting. We were impressed with the depth and presence of our favorites. Their energy and minerality demonstrated that these wines belong on the world stage. At the same time, we found several wines that seemed flawed, evidence of a young region still trying to find itself. Nonetheless, we were far more impressed than dismayed.

“What was exciting to me was how many various different styles you could find within the category of dry rieslings,” Thomas said.

He also observed that many of these rieslings were too young and needed a little more aging. I agree, and no wine demonstrates this more than a bottle that I have several times called the single best riesling produced in the United States. It didn’t even make the top 10 in our blind tasting.

It was the 2010 Argetsinger Vineyard from Ravines, and while we were impressed by the richness and texture of the wine, it seemed unfocused. In retrospect, I think it was just too young, and will develop well. If you can find a 2007 or ’08 Argetsinger, you can see for yourself. Meanwhile, Ravines’s fresh, chalky entry-level 2012 dry riesling was No. 5 on our list and a great deal at $16, about half the price of the Argetsinger.

Our favorite was the 2012 dry riesling from Dr. Konstantin Frank, now run by Frederick Frank, the grandson of the founder. It was energetic, harmonious and deep, and it was also our best value at $16. No. 2 was the balanced, focused and complex 2012 dry riesling from Anthony Road, which also made our No. 3 bottle, the higher-end 2010 Art Series, a weightier wine but nonetheless textured and savory.