Cheesemongers, cheesemakers and cheese mavens will meet Wednesday to pursue a fresh title: certified cheese whiz.

The 29th annual convention of the American Cheese Society—a trade group for the artisan, farmstead and specialty cheese industry—is the place to be this week for cheeseheads. There, for the first time, the ACS will offer for 150 people the Certified Cheese Professional Exam, a test in expertise that has been ripening for seven years.

"It's...