Virginia Olson

for the Sioux Falls Business Journal

Soul food will become part of the Sioux Falls area greater food lexicon when Omar Thornton opens “O” So Good in Garretson. The new restaurant will occupy the former space of Annie’s Coffeehouse on 3rd and Main and will open in mid-June.

Thornton had been in Sioux Falls since 2001, then one-and-a-half years ago he and his wife Renae moved to Garretson. As a chef, he has become well-known teaching cooking classes at Plum’s and creating pop-up dinners. He also applied his culinary skills at Bros Brasserie Americano and Grand Falls Casino, but always had the idea of owning his own restaurant in the back of his mind.

"Some persistent ladies in Garretson actually persuaded me to take over Annie’s. The coffeehouse had been a fixture in Garretson and suddenly closed in January. And I loved the building," he said. "After some pondering my wife and I decided what better time and place to start my own soul food restaurant?”

Soul food you, say? Thornton admits the region probably doesn’t know much about it. He hopes to be its spokesperson and sees himself as someone who can advance, explain and contemporize the cuisine.\

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“I think soul food conjures images of African American food or that it is barbecue,” said Thornton. “But for me, I think of it as food that is soulful and satisfying. It is stuff you really want to eat, that is going to comfort you.”

Thornton says what makes soul food so good is that it comes from the heart and is associated with love family, tradition, religion, and fond memories.

“I remember Sunday afternoon dinners growing up in Oakland, California, with a family of enthusiastic cooks. Everybody brought their best dish," he said. "The ladies would leave church a little early to go home and set out the meal. The food tasted unbelievable and no one would share their recipes.”

When it’s done right, Thornton says soul food delights the taste buds.

“It’s a bite of macaroni and cheese bake with just the right amount of creaminess and chew. It’s savory greens with perfectly baked cornbread on the side," he said. "It is knowing someone spent a lot of time in the kitchen developing a delicious flavor. And it tastes great going down.”

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When he began to plan his restaurant, Thornton decided the most authentic thing to do was take his heritage and add his training. So his menu includes soul food standards with a southern flair. Foods like fried chicken, collard greens and jambalaya, and also room for lots and lots of vegetables. Cabbage, collards, peas, beans and sweet potatoes are soul food superstars. There is also the seafood like cod and catfish and lots of special dishes with shrimp.

“There will be no bar food, but I do plan to feature my Big O burger,” he said.With a small, front page menu he plans to rotate it every six weeks. There will be breakfast Friday and Saturday with a brunch on Sunday. Lunches will be served Friday and Saturday. In addition, he plans to offer a seafood boil every two months. Beer and wine will be served.

“Fried chicken will still be fried chicken, but I will be using better ingredients,” he said. “I will also be using locally sourced produce from Mom’s Market in Baltic.”

Wall Drug inspirations

With the restaurant occupying the back half of the 2,700-square-foot building, Thornton has some special plans for the remainder of the space. He took his inspiration from Wall Drug.

“When I was living in California I saw Wall Drug signs. They made me curious. When I got to SD I made it a point to go there. It was an amazing experience because there were so many sections each selling something different. I came away with cowboy boots and a cowboy hat. And I never forgot how I felt."

Thornton plans to have an open kitchen and seating that encourages community. He also wants it to be family friendly. The front section of the building will house a coffee shop and dessert bar, a candy shop and a consignment area featuring local artists. There is also a stage for performers. Eventually Thornton will offer cooking classes. The restaurant will seat 55 to 70 with patio seating for another 25.