Is such a concoction even necessary? I plucked a couple of pieces of brisket from my sandwich, and the meat was good by itself – better than good, even, at least by the still-evolving standards of brisket in St. Louis. Smoke filigreed its natural flavor, and if it wasn't the most tender brisket I've ever eaten, it was certainly tender enough, with little currents of molten fat in each bite.

But between the sauce and buttery, Provel-capped bread, Smokee Mo's brisket is transformed from just “tender enough” to melt-in-your-mouth succulent. Too rich? Not with the garlic and horseradish notes. Too soft? Not set against the crusty bread.

The Mangia Bene is a smart sandwich, a fun sandwich, a very good sandwich. The staff likely will grow tired of shouting its name soon, but in a barbecue market growing closer to saturation, that seems like a good problem to have.

Where Smokee Mo's BBQ, 606 Jeffco Boulevard, Arnold More info 636-296-2111; smokymos.com • Menu Barbecue • Hours 11 a.m.-9 p.m. (or sold out) daily

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