Chef Andrew Fontaine comes to Baltimore with a playful approach to fine dining after six years at various establishments in California’s Napa Valley. Fontaine refused to include a crab cake on the menu — what he says is a losing battle in a town like Baltimore, where every diner has a preconceived notion of what a crab cake should be. Instead, he created a crab beignet. As airy and crispy as the ones at New Orleans’ Cafe du Monde, but stuffed with crab, they offer a playful take on tradition.