6. What to do in Iceland in winter

Iceland in winter gives you the opportunity to see a different side of Iceland and do things that might not be possible during the summer. People are much more likely to do tours during winter, and for a good reason. For this chapter, I relied on input from the experts at Iceland Mountain Guides , who have a lot of experience with winter activities in Iceland.

When I asked them about what people could do in Iceland in winter, they explained that “the cold, crisp air is refreshing and with the right clothing you can enjoy so many activities. Hiking, skiing (downhill and cross-country), snowshoeing, walking on a glacier , ice climbing, ice caves and bathing in hot springs are just a few of activities that many people that live and visit Iceland take part in. The days might be short but you can pack in a lot of adventure. Also, long nights allow for ample opportunities to possibly see the Northern Lights.”

The most popular activities by season



With the help and inspiration from Iceland Mountain Guides, I put together this list of top activities, attractions, and events you can experience in Iceland during winter:





A. Northern Lights

The northern lights are the #1 reason people travel to Iceland in winter. Experiencing the northern lights is something you won’t forget easily and I haven’t met anybody who’s thought that seeing the northern lights was disappointing.

How to find the northern lights

You’re in Iceland during winter, which is a great start. Find out when the sun sets and what time of day is the darkest here . Click on today’s day to see a graph that shows you that information. On December 21st, for example, sunset is at 3:29 PM and sunrise at 11:22 AM, with the darkest time of day being between 12:30-2:30 AM. This would be the best time to look for the aurora, even though you should probably start looking well before then, as it will already be quite dark.

Check out cloud cover and aurora activity here . Move the slider to “00” of the night you’re planning on seeing the aurora and look at the map. The white parts of the country indicate clear skies but cloudier skies are indicated with an increasingly dark shade of green.

In the top right corner, you will find an aurora scale from 0 to 9. If the scale is showing 0-2, there will be little chances of any aurora activity that night. However, if it’s 3 or above, it should be worth looking for the aurora. I have been using this tool for years and this is how I’ve learned to interpret the scale:

0-1: Not worth looking

2: Chances of faint northern lights. I usually don’t bother looking.

3: Probably at least some faint northern lights and possibly some stronger activity.

4: I’m excited. There’s a pretty good chance of strong activity.

5: I’m definitely not missing this. I’m expecting a good show tonight.

6-9: Holy cow, I’m cancelling my plans tomorrow, grabbing all my camera gear, and spending all night outside and/or in my van.

The highest I’ve ever seen on this scale is 6, but I’m not always looking. I should mention that this scale is no guarantee. I have been very disappointed before when I saw a 4 on the scale, but there was no activity. It can happen. Also, make sure to check the website minutes before you head out to look for the northern lights (and even during, if possible). Sometimes they update the website very late. I remember when they updated a “5” to a “0” at 5 PM one night, so I had been excited all morning for nothing. Bummer, but that’s how it is.

Check out my other post on my favorite places to see the northern lights in Iceland , if you’re interested.

Northern lights tours

These are the most popular tours in winter by far. There are a lot of good companies that specialize in northern lights tours, and I’ve heard good things from people who have gone. Here are some highly rated tours you could check out:





However, before you jump ahead and book one of these tours, let’s go over the pros and cons of going on an aurora tour:

Pros:

You don’t have to drive

You might meet some interesting people

You might go to a cool place you wouldn’t have found on your own (like a glacier or a boat)

You might get a very good and useful guide that can add to your experience

Cons:

It’s more expensive than renting a car for 24 hours. The northern lights are free and by booking a tour, you’re simply paying a premium for a ride out of the city (to avoid light pollution) and back.

It will be crowded. Don’t expect a quiet moment by yourself or significant other.

You lose flexibility and independence. What if you want to watch the northern lights for another hour? What if you want to see them or photograph them is a different location?

You have limited space. This is especially true if you have camera gear. You’ll also be limited in how much extra clothing, camping chairs, etc. you can bring to make your experience more enjoyable.

You can weigh these pros and cons and make your own decision, but personally I would not go on a northern lights tour. I enjoy the flexibility and independence too much and I’m comfortable driving myself. More importantly, I think that the peace, quiet, and stillness is a huge part of the whole northern lights experience and I don’t want to miss that. Imagine any other significant moment in your life (marriage, childbirth, proposal, etc.). Now imagine that moment with a bunch of strangers talking, checking their phones, and making “oooohh” and “ahhh” sounds. Now choose which version of that memory you prefer.

Of course I’m a little biased and I understand that this is just a personal preference. Like I said, weigh the pros and cons and check out the tours above if you think a tour would be more up your alley.

If you’d like another local’s opinion on this exact question, check out IheartReykjavik’s northern lights tour post .

Photographing the northern lights

This topic deserves a blog post in itself, but we’ll have to make due with just a few select tips. As an amateur photographer, I know a thing or two about photographing the northern lights. The most important thing when shooting the northern lights, believe it or not, is to dress well (See chapter 3).If you're freezing cold, you won't have the patience to get the perfect shot. Here are other tips for those wanting to shoot the northern lights. This mostly applies to DSLR cameras but can also be applied to other cameras and even camera phones that offer advanced features (Although I don’t recommend trying to photograph the northern lights on your phone).

Shoot in RAW format or highest possible resolution.

Shoot in manual mode

Use a wide-angle lens. Most cheaper non-DSLR cameras have a wide-angle lens. I use my 10-22mm Canon Lens, but anything below 20mm is recommended.

Use a remote trigger if possible. You can also consider using the timer setting on your camera to minimize movement and blurry images.

Set LCD screen brightness to low

Bring a travel chair. It will make your more patient, which is super important.

Bring a snack for the same reason.

Bring a lens with a large aperture if possible (f/4 or bigger, i.e. a number lower than 4)

Set your ISO to 1600 and then make adjustments based on first test shots

Don't forget about composition. I know you're excited to start shooting the northern lights, but take a few extra minutes to think about the composition during your setup.

Experiment with shutter speed. I usually shoot at between 10 to 25 seconds. Start at 20 seconds and then adjust. If you have a super fast lens (f2 maximum aperture or better), you might want to start with 6-10 seconds. You shouldn’t go over 30 seconds as you’ll start to see some star trailing and other unnatural blurry effects.

Remove the filter from your lens

Pre-focus your lens (and then set it to Manual focus mode). Try not to set the focus to infinite, as that won’t give you perfect focus in my experience (although people have different options on this). You might have to set your autofocus to a single focus point or use the Live View mode on your camera to focus on the brightest point in the sky, such as a start, the moon, or the northern lights themselves.

Test exposure, consult histogram.

Have at least 2 batteries and 2 memory cards

Use a sturdy tripod

Check the aurora forecasts

Use your lens hood to protect against frost/condensation on your lens

Check out these helpful resources for more info about photographing the northern lights.

How to Photograph the Northern Lights video by John E. Marriott

Northern Lights Photography – The Definitive Guide by Dave Morrow







B. Top winter activities

If you like adventure, you’ll like Iceland in the winter. From simple hikes to winter surfing in the Atlantic ocean, there’s something for you. Here is a list of the top winter activities in Iceland:

Northern lights hunting

Not a huge surprise, considering the previous chapter. What’s the big deal? Imagine how cool it would be to be in these pictures. Then multiply that feeling by 100.

Ice caving

You’ve probably seen plenty of amazing photos of people exploring the hauntingly blue ice caves in Iceland. Iceland has a lot of amazing ice caves, although not all of them are blue. Check out Guide to Iceland’s Ultimate Guide to Ice Caves in Iceland for everything you need to know about ice caves.

Just to be clear, the blue caves you see in photos are glacier ice caves, i.e. completely made up of ice. These caves are constantly being formed and change every day. These caves are generally only accessible in the wintertime (November - March) and there is no guarantee that they will be found each winter. Do not go into these caves without a professional guide and I unlike northern lights tours, I actually highly recommend booking a tour with a respectable operator to experience these caves. Auður from IheartReykjavik wrote a good article on ice caves here and I also enjoyed ExpertVagabond’s post on his experience here .

Check out these ice caving tours:





Glacier hiking

Hiking and climbing glaciers sounds pretty awesome - and crazy. But don’t worry, even if you’re a total beginner, you should be able to find a glacier hike tour for you. Like most people, Kiersten had never used an ice ax before, and she had a great experience regardless.

Check out these glacier hike tours:

Snowmobile tours

Using a snowmobile can be an awesome way to explore the glaciers of Iceland. Icelanders know a thing or two about snowmobiles and have been using them for decades to travel over heaths and glaciers. The glaciers in Iceland offer some of the highest peaks in the country so you’ll be guaranteed to get beautiful 360° views of Icelandic nature.

Note: Glaciers can be very dangerous as they can have hidden cracks and moulins, so never explore them without a knowledgeable guide.

Super jeep tours

Let’s face it - some of the most beautiful places in Iceland can be difficult to reach. On top of that, not all travelers have a lot of experience driving in the difficult Icelandic conditions. That’s why booking a super jeep tour can be your perfect solution. No matter the destination or “theme” of the tour, it can be a unique way to see some of the more remote places of the country. Just like with any other tour, make sure to read the reviews and research the destination before committing to a particular tour.





Diving / snorkeling

My coworker, Lea, has actually tried this recently herself and you can read all about it here :

Lea's post pretty much sums up my own thoughts on diving and snorkeling in Iceland, so I’ll leave it at that.





Skiing / snowboarding

Being raised by a part-time ski instructor and a grandfather who ran the most popular ski area in the country (Bláfjöll), I’m a bit biased towards skiing and snowboarding in Iceland. Unfortunately, Iceland is significantly warmer now compared to when I was a young boy, so we don’t have as many opportunities to hit the slopes. But when you get the chance and the weather allows, there’s nothing more energizing for the soul than to spend a day in the Icelandic mountains with the occasional hot chocolate break.

One possible benefit of skiing/snowboarding in Iceland is that you don’t have to book a tour like with most other activities. Also, renting equipment is never an issue if you don’t want to travel with your own.

Here are some of the most popular ski areas in Iceland:





Hiking / Trail running

There are a lot of amazing trails in Iceland and many of them are perfectly suited for winter. There are plenty of tour operators that offer really good hiking tours but if you’re planning on hiking on your own, don’t underestimate the importance of preparation and safety (see Chapter 2). Make sure that you’ve researched the trail, leave a travel plan, and follow all other basic safety tips mentioned in the safety chapter above.

Personally, I like hiking in the Úlfarsfell, Thingvellir and Thorsmork areas. They are all in or relatively close to Reykjavik and offer unbeatable landscapes and easy trails that are perfectly suited for the snow and short winter days. If you climb Úlsfarsfell (Wolf Mountain), which is very easy, you will also get a really nice view of the city.









Kristie on top of Ulfarsfell mountain in January with Reykjavik in the background





Dog sledding

Dog sledding is not a traditional Icelandic sport or a way of traveling like in some other countries. However, there are a couple of companies that specialize in dog sledding tours and they have becoming increasingly popular lately. After all, Iceland is very well suited for dog sledding. Saying that this would be a unique experience would be an understatement.

Surfing

Yes, you read that right. Like dog sledding, surfing has increased in popularity over the past few years. It’s the perfect, albeit extreme, way for a surfer to get to know the country in an intimate way. It’s also just a very unique experience that will take you out of your comfort zone and create memories for a lifetime. Arctic Surfers are the only company that specializes in surfing tours in Iceland but they definitely know what they are doing, judging by their reviews and past experience (because no, I have not tried this myself...yet.)

Arctic Surfers









C. Top winter attractions

Iceland has a lot of popular attractions and I won’t attempt to list all of them in this post. But there are a few attractions that are worth mentioning specifically for winter travelers. These attractions are either easier to enjoy, more unique, or I just happen to personally like them more during the winter months.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

Even though this is an amazing attraction during the summertime, there’s something special about Jökulsárlón in the winter. First, the glacier lagoon looks more dramatic and even prettier when surrounded by snow and under the golden winter sunlight. Second, it’s one of the most popular attractions in Iceland, so you will find a LOT of people there during the high-season. My favorite part of Jökulsárlón is the quiet, ethereal, and desolate atmosphere you can experience there. If you can hear the icebergs break, that’s a huge bonus. It’s much easier to experience this at Jökulsárlón during the off-season when the parking lots are not completely packed with tour buses.





Thingvellir National Park

Thingvellir is beautiful no matter the season. But when you have limited daylight to work with and are looking for unique landscapes close to the city during winter, Thingvellir is even more attractive. Thingvellir highlights the “winter wonderland” benefits I mentioned at the beginning of this post (Chapter 1.a). Unlike many attractions around Iceland, Thingvellir is just as amazing during the winter months - just different. Enjoy a quiet and relaxing day surrounded by some of the most amazing landscapes Iceland has to offer.





Gullfoss & Geysir

The south and southwest parts of Iceland are really convenient to explore during wintertime in general. When you have limited daylight and difficult conditions, it’s nice not having to travel too far from the international airport. I already mentioned Thingvellir, but I must add Gullfoss and Geysir to this list to complete the Golden Circle.

Also, just like Jökulsárlón, people visit Gullfoss and Geysir by the bus loads in the summer. Expect some lines, having to wiggle through crowds, and having the nature sounds interrupted by loud talking and smartphone notifications during high-season. When you’re at Geysir, for example (you’ll actually be looking for the geyser “Strokkur”, but that’s a different story), you’ll want to be up close and personal to experience the powerful geyser. Having to fight for a spot around the geyser takes just a little bit away from the experience in my opinion. You’ll avoid all of this when you visit Gullfoss and Geysir in the wintertime.

Experiencing the Golden Circle under the golden hours of sunlight during wintertime also feels appropriate.

Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Instead of trying to describe the beauty of Snæfellsnes peninsula in winter here, hop over to my previous post when I actually explored the peninsula with my wife Kristie:



Winter Road Trip in Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Long story short, it was an unforgettable trip that highlighted all the reasons why I love to travel around Iceland in the winter.





Reykjanes Peninsula

I put Reykjanes on this list for many of the same reasons I chose Snæfellsnes; it’s close to Reykjavik, has a lot of attractions in a small area, and makes for a perfect easy road trip surrounded by beautiful Icelandic nature. To read about my experience exploring Reykjanes peninsula in November, check out my other blog post:

Exploring Reykjanes Peninsula





Blue Lagoon (Your favorite geothermal pool)

Even though the Blue Lagoon is technically a part of Reykjanes peninsula, I thought it deserved its own mention. I would actually take my recommendation beyond the Blue Lagoon and say that I think any geothermal pool is especially amazing during winter.

Like I mentioned in Chapter 1.a when talking about pros of traveling during winter, soaking in a hot geothermal pool is especially wonderful when everything is freezing around you. Just like hot chocolate tastes a little bit better on a cold winter night, visiting any of Iceland’s geothermal pools will be that much nice in the winter.





Dimmuborgir

Myvatn is one of the most popular areas to visit in the north for a good reason. I personally enjoy the area a bit more during the summer, although you’ll have the benefit of not having to worry about those annoying gnats (Mývatn translates to “Gnat Lake”). But there is one exception: Dimmuborgir.

Dimmuborgir is a huge lava field in the Myvatn area that offers a really unique and dramatic landscape. It’s said to be the official home of the Yule Lads, but that’s not exactly why I love this area in the winter. Dimmuborgir directly translates into “dark castles” which stems from the hollow lava pillars that are large enough to house people.

It’s difficult to describe, but this landscape fits perfectly into the Icelandic winter scene and I usually stop here during the wintertime when I’m in the area.





Harpa Concert Hall

Reykjavik has a lot of interesting attractions that are fun visiting during winter. Visiting museums, for example, is a great way to stay entertained and warm during cold winter days in Reykjavik. But if I had to choose one attraction in Reykjavik that I enjoy more in the winter compared to summer, it would be Harpa Concert Hall.

The unique colors of Harpa are much more noticable and enjoyable during the darker months of winter. There are also a lot of interesting events that are held at Harpa during winter, and that offers the perfect opportunity to experience Harpa without sacrificing precious daylight.

Akureyri

The capital of the North, as many call it, is the home of about 18,000 people and the largest urban area in Iceland outside the capital region. The culture and atmosphere of Akureyri is quite unique and charming, and I feel like it is enhanced during the winter months. I love all the small restaurants (Love Akureyri Fish & Chips), bars, and coffee shops (Bláa Kannan is my favorite) and spending time in the City Center.

Akureyri alo has the most amazing ski area in Hlíðarfjall. My family has a small winter cabin in the area, so I might be biased, but there’s a good reason why we chose this location.





Reykjavik nightlife

Although technically an experience, I think this deserves a spot on my list.

Enjoying and alcoholic beverage or two with good friends is always fun, no matter the season. But if you’re planning on exploring downtown Reykjavik, including bars, restaurants, and dance clubs, I prefer winter. That’s mostly because you will be spending most of your time inside warm buildings, so you don’t have to feel guilty about not enjoying the midnight sun in the summer.

I also like downtown during winter because of the “winter wonderland” factor and the fact that Icelanders try really hard to combat the darkness with various cool events, festivals, and exhibitions during the winter months. Check out the chapter below to see some of my favorite events and holidays during wintertime.

Honorable mentions:

All the waterfalls

Seeing some of Iceland’s most majestic waterfalls during winter is a very unique experience. The waterfalls look very different from what they are in summer and the desolate factor is maximized.

All the museums

Like I mentioned above, visiting museums in Iceland is even better during winter. You can plan your trip so you use the limited daylight you have in winter outside, but then you can enjoy museums when it gets dark.

Ice Caves

Although 99.9% of people should experience this attraction through a tour (hence me listing this as an activity the previous chapter) it’s technically an attraction and therefore deserves a spot on this list. Many of these ice caves are only available to experience in the winter months.





Winter events & holidays

From raving electronic music to the illumination of the Peace Tower, Iceland has a lot of interesting events and holidays during the winter months. Here are some of the most notable ones:

Þorrablót

Mid-January to mid-February

Þorrablót is a midwinter festival that gets its name from the historical Icelandic month called Þorri, which corresponds to mid-January to mid-February. Although this event has a long history, the modern version of this festival arose out of a romantic nationalist movement in the late 19th century, where people would feast and recite poems in honor of Thor (Þórr), the well-known Norse god. The even grew in popularity over the 20th century and was heavily influenced by a restaurant that started serving a specific “Þorramatur” platter and the rest is history. Let´s just say that this was not a vegetarian restaurant and if you are a vegetarian, this festival is most likely not for you.

Today, people get together and enjoy this feast of traditional Icelandic foods, poetry readings, and more. If you want to experience Icelandic cuisine at its best and worst, you should find a way to join a Þorrablót during your stay. Haven’t you just been dying to try a sheep’s head or putrefied shark?

Winter Lights Festival

February 1-4

Website

Winters in Iceland are very dark, so it’s not surprising that we try to fight that with fun and colorful events in the depths of winter. The city of Reykjavik runs the Winter Lights Festival where it puts together a cool program that is a mix of art, industry, environment, history, sports, and culture. They set up specific festival events all over the city and they are targeted towards locals and travelers alike. The best thing is that all events are completely free, so it’s the perfect way to brighten up a dark winter day in Reykjavik.

Icelandic Beer Festival

February 28

Website

Did you know that beer was illegal in Iceland until 1989? No joke. So there’s no wonder why Icelanders celebrate their beer freedom with a 4-day festival in Reykjavik that feature some of the best beers the country has to offer. There are a few foreign beers that sneak in there but who cares when you’re surrounded by awesome beer and good food? The festival is held at the popular Kex Hostel near downtown Reykjavik and guests can taste beers and chat with the people behind those amazing brews.

Food and Fun Festival

February 28 - March 4

Website

World-class chefs and from Europe and North America team up with some of the most renowned Reykjavik restaurants to cook up amazing meals using only Icelandic ingredients. This famous and prestigious festival will be held for the 17th time in 2018 and you will find a lot of foodies all around the city enjoying the vibrant and friendly atmosphere of the festival.

Reykjavik Folk Festival

March 1-3

Website

This is a 3-day folk music festival that, like the Beer Festival, is held at Kex Hostel. All sorts of artist showcase their talents at this festival and it’s a great opportunity to catch a glimpse at some of the older Icelandic music styles.

Design March

March 15-18

Website

The name says it all - it’s a 4-day festival that celebrates all aspects of local design, although it features some international designers as well. They set up over 100 events and exhibitions set up by over 400 talented designers.

Sónar Reykjavik

March 16-17

Website

Sónar Reykjavik is a relatively new music festival where the impressive Harpa Concert Hall is turned into a raving nightclub full of electronica, hip hop, and other popular genres of music. Major Lazer, Skrillex, Fatboy Slim, James Blake, and a lot of other amazing artists have all played at this festival in the past.

Reykjavik Fashion Festival

March 23-25

Website

Reykjavik Fashion Festival (RFF) celebrates and promotes Icelandic fashion and music. During this 4-day event, the most talented and unique fashion designers in Iceland showcase their talents and present their latest clothing lines. Guess who was featured there last year? Cintamani, of course (see Chapter 3).

Reykjavik International Film Festival

September 27 - October 7

Website

Reykjavik International Film Festival (RIFF) is a well-established 11-day film festival that offers people to enjoy the best of international filmmaking. You can watch films, attend workshops and exhibitions, and interact with filmmakers. The festival focuses on a wide variety of dramas and non-fiction films from over 40 countires. The main prize is the Golden Puffin, which is way more adorable than the Oscar statue.

Imagine Peace Tower illumination

October 9

Website

The Imagine Peace Tower is a piece of artwork that symbolizes John Lennon and Yoko Ono’s continuing campaign for world peace and was officially unveiled on October 9th, 2007, on Lennon’s 67th birthday. It’s incredibly fitting to see it light up the skies of one of the most peaceful countries in the world. Personally, I have been able to see the light right outside my parents’ window since 2007 and it has become a part of our treasured environment.

Iceland Airwaves

November 7-10

Website

This is unquestionably Iceland’s biggest music festival and will be held for the 20th time in 2018. It started out a tiny festival in an airport hangar at the Reykjavik Airport but it has come a long way since then. The festival features amazing artists and even more unique venues. You can expect to find some world-famous artists as well as discover some really talented unknown artists. Some people describe the music played at the festival as the “best music you’ve never heard”.

The festival is hosted both in Reykjavik and Akureyri and for 4 full days people can enjoy the best that Iceland’s nightlife, music, cuisine, and nature has to offer.

Christmas

December

Starting around December 3rd to the 25th, Reykjavik turns into a winter wonderland full of Christmas spirit. The festivities symbolically start with the lighting of the Oslo Christmas tree at Austurvöllur, which has been a tradition for many decades. People love doing their Christmas shopping at the Laugarvegur shopping street and there are plenty of Christmas related events, such as the Christmas program at Árbær Open Air Museum, which captures the Christmas spirit of Reykjavik in the early 20th century.

Families in Iceland will celebrate on Christmas Eve, not the 25th. They will go to church, enjoy a Christmas meal, and spend the rest of the night to open presents and munching on Christmas cookies. The 25th is then usually spent meeting with extended family or to be lazy, eating leftovers and enjoying new gifts.

New Year’s Eve

December 31st

My personal favorite event of the year. It’s hard to describe the feeling of New Year’s Eve in Reykjavik and as I’ve already mentioned, it’s quite similar to what it feels like to see the northern lights. This is the biggest party night of the year for Icelanders and I’m pretty sure no other nation blows up more fireworks per capita. People meet their neighbors at the local “ brenna ” (“burning”), which is basically the biggest bonfire you will ever see and starts at 8:30 PM. After the brenna, people go back home and watch the most watched television show of the year (watched by 90%+ of the population), a comedy called “Áramótaskaup” (New Year’s Comedy), where some of the most talented Icelandic comedians make fun of various events that happened throughout the year. For an Icelander it’s a lot of fun - for foreigners, not so much. My American wife Kristie usually reads a book or takes a nap during the show. Finally after the show, around 11 PM, the skies becomes lit up with fireworks until it reaches its climax at midnight, when people say goodbye to the old year and welcome the new with lots of champagne, hugs, and kisses.

Midnight from my parents' balcony