In the summer of 2003, my partner and I moved down to St Ives in our vintage camper van after I landed a job at a now-closed fish restaurant called Alba. There, I refined my fish-preparation skills and learned how to cook a piece of fish to perfection.

With fish, quality is key, of course, but it was how they cooked the skin that really transformed my own fish cooking. Melt a tablespoon of clarified butter in an ovenproof pan or skillet over a medium heat. Lay in a fish fillet skin side down, and resist all temptation to touch it until the skin caramelises and browns on the edges and base. When the flesh turns opaque more than halfway through the fillet, pop the pan in a hot oven for a minute, or until only just cooked, then serve skin side up and enjoy the crisp, flavourful skin.

If you’re cooking for someone who won’t eat fish skin, however, or if you’re making a dish that calls for skinned fish, this snack transforms a by-product into something delicious.

Fish crackling

I’d always recommend keeping the skin on a fish fillet where possible, but if a recipe does call for it to be removed, or you have guests who won’t eat it, consider serving this alongside it, or as a garnish. Fish crackling has a superior texture that is simultaneously crunchy yet chewy, and umami-rich and satiating. It also keeps well in a sealed container, even for months, so long as it stays dry. I especially like it dipped in creme fraiche or soured cream with a sprinkling of cayenne pepper and a little dill.

Fish skin

Frying oil – organic rapeseed or virgin olive oil, for preference

Sea salt

Bring a pan of water to a boil, lower in the fish skin and simmer for three minutes. Drain and pat dry with a clean cloth, then cut into rough pieces. Lay these on a wire rack and leave to dry, either in a warm part of the kitchen or in a low oven (preferably alongside something else, to maximise the power usage, and that doesn’t matter if it smells of fish). Once the skin is totally dry, heat a dash of oil in a frying pan on a high heat, add the skin and cook until it puffs up and curls. Remove from the pan, season with salt and it’s good to go, or cool and store.