Are we bored with Veganuary yet? Eyes rolling at the evangelism and soundbites? At the overpromising, everything from fighting cancer to better erections? Or perhaps we’re feeling evangelical ourselves, having lost a few pounds, convinced we’re doing our bit for the environment and with a bit of an added spring in our vitals after the lethargy of the festive?

I’m conflicted. And I haven’t the space to go into the many, many arguments about veganism, whether philosophical belief (as recently ruled in court), or fashion trend driven by celebrities and social media. Nor do I feel compelled to deliver my balls-out, definitive take: it’s complicated, and for every intense activist or dewy-eyed Instagram influencer simpering about plant-based smoothies, there’s an academic study or organic farmer