Unfortunately yes, it is true. I wrote an article about it a few months ago on a website that doesn’t exist anymore or else I would link to it. Here’s an excerpt from it though that will explain.

“Simplicity recently released two new Lolita patterns; dress patterns numbered 8444 and accessory patterns numbered 8443. The new patterns are certainly better examples of Lolita than many of Simplicity’s previous designs and for good reason; they aren’t entirely their own designs. Several Lolitas have come forward on social media saying that Simplicity used their designs without permission. The first case of note involves the fabric in use on the sample dresses for pattern 8444. One JSK is shown with pink fabric with a macaron border print that was purchased from hazelbug on Spoonflower. The designer has stated in a post calling out the pattern manufacturer, “My intent was to give people the freedom to sell objects made with the fabric they bought from my spoonflower page. Not to see it being used in an advertisment for a pattern. I feel like a painter who has had their artwork hung up in a very inapropriate place.” Simplicity did not credit the designer for her work.

The next case comes in regards to the designs of the accessories in pattern 8443. In a post on social media, the designer of indie brand Miss Candyhollic stated that the bear ear bonnet featured in the pattern was of her own design. As it turns out, representatives from Simplicity were present at Rufflecon where they had a booth set up selling their wares. The designer of Miss Candyhollic reports that an individual from the Simplicity booth purchased one of the headdresses from her. Simplicity staff were also seen buying pieces from other booths including a cat ear bonnet from Virge Vampur, another item to appear in this new set of patterns. It is believed that Simplicity purchased these items in order to deconstruct them and make patterns from the designs. Again, they did not ask permission or credit the original designers.”

I have personally chosen to avoid Simplicity for a while and have only been using patterns from other brands for my projects. Rufflecon even dropped Simplicity as a sponsor because of the whole thing. But do I think you’re a horrible person if you use them? Of course not. They’re good patterns and more easily accessible for those of us who are outside of Japan and don’t read Japanese than other Lolita options like the Otome no Sewing books so I can understand using them if you feel that it’s your best option. (Although I at least recommend waiting until they go on sale or you have a good coupon, they definitely aren’t worth the ticket price.) It’s a lot like the replica debate which really boils down to the feelings of the person who will be using the product or wearing the garment. If you do choose to go a different route though, there are a lot of tutorials online for making Lolita garments with no pattern or modified patterns, Otome no Sewing which is a series of books of Lolita related sewing patterns, and the Gothic & Lolita Bible (which is out of print but back issues can still be found online) usually included patterns as well.