Jun Takahashi‘s UNDERCOVER and Takahiro Miyashita‘s TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist. joined forces for a collaborative Fall/Winter 2018 runway show at Pitti Uomo 93. United under the dichotomous theme of order and disorder, the two Japanese heavyweights presented a new generation of technical armor that asserted both designers’s iconic styles while simultaneously subverting traditional fashion motifs and referencing the ever-ripe topic of AI dystopia.

First up was UNDERCOVER. Referencing digital age disorder, the range mixed classic European elements such as check prints, knit sweaters and pleated skirts with utilitarian garments such as construction worker gear, rain boots and astronaut suits. Phrases such as “COMPUTER MALFUNCTION” and all-over sci-fi graphics added to the dystopian theme, while a pajama-robe finale outfit rounded out the narrative with a tongue-in-cheek cliché ending.

TheSoloist.’s lineup hit a darker, post-apocalyptic vibe. A stark white, black and orange color palette presented a strong uniform aesthetic that fused ninja influences with hazmat and avant-garde nomadic elements. Face masks, oversized cloaks, zippers, technical detailing and ample layers of nylon, metallic materials and synthetic fabrics demonstrated utilitarian sensibilities with couture-like construction. Heritage menswear motifs such as Houndstooth, and tailored blazers were deconstructed and slotted beneath and between the tech gear, creating an almost systematic sense of disorder. Styling saw slung-over garments and straps and footwear consisted of tall boots and Japanese Geta sandals.Both designers sent two sets of models in uniform outfits — white pleated skirts for UNDERCOVER and black cropped, technical bibs for TheSoloist — for the finale walk.

Flip through the UNDERCOVER & TAKAHIROMIYASHITATheSoloist. Fall/Winter 2018 runway show above and follow our Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018 coverage for the latest collections.