I vowed to return for a longer stay, and the chance to do so arrived recently when Ms. Ineceli invited me to participate in a remarkable food festival she organized in Izmir, a city about 300 miles south of Istanbul. In attendance were chefs from near and far, from Lebanon, Israel, Spain, France, Poland, Germany and Britain, along with a great number of Turkish chefs, purveyors and food artisans. There were workshops, seminars and presentations, as well as a chance to taste everything from pilaf to flatbreads to Turkish coffee.

The festival’s theme centered on the marketplace and its cultural influence. A small band of us spread out across the city to see as many local markets as we could. Izmir markets are especially lively and dazzling, with the freshest fish straight from the sea: Silvery, glistening anchovies were in season, along with shimmering fat bonito. There is glorious produce: Masses of greens, herbs, eggplant, cabbage, peppers, beans and pumpkins piled high. Vine leaves, olives and pickles of every sort punctuated the displays. An abundance of luscious grapes and juicy figs beckoned, along with great baskets of quinces, lemons, oranges and pomegranates. (Every corner juice bar will squeeze you a glass of pomegranate juice for a pittance.)

After the festival, I journeyed up to Ayvalik, a town farther up the Aegean coast, in a region where olive trees cover miles and miles of countryside. I was told the youngest of them were 400 years old, still bearing fruit.