BrisketTown is about to make the transition from a by-the-pound barbecue joint into a full-service restaurant. Daniel Delaney and his crew started by phasing out weekday lunch a couple of weeks ago, and they will be doing a floorplan overhaul on Sunday to fill in the space where people used to wait in line. Once that's done, there will be almost twice the number of seats as before, up from 24 to 40.

On Monday the restaurant will be closed to finish up those changes, and then on Tuesday it will switch to full table service. For now, the menu will be the same beloved smoked meat and sides, but Daniel Delaney says he eventually plans to expand the options with more meats and made-to-order dishes. He's already added sausage, but down the road there could also be things like pulled pork, turkey, mac and cheese, and composed salads. He's even thinking of doing a prix fixe, family-style, little-bit-of-everything option.

On the decision to make the switch away from by-the-pound style favored by most of his fellow barbecue joints, Delaney says: "This is supposed to be hospitality. Making people walk around and bus their own tables is inhospitable. This is not about making a mimeograph of what's in Texas." Plus, "ordering their food by the pound is completely foreign to New Yorkers."

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