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Whatsapp A Texas pitmaster stands next to an assortment of sausages and brisket.

With several distinct styles, hundreds of restaurants and multiple festivals, Texas proudly describes itself as the world capital of the barbecue. As more and more fast food chains borrow from its rich tradition, however, there are concerns for the future of the traditional barbecue joint, writes Hélène Hofman.

There are few things Texans take more seriously than a barbecue. As Wayne Mueller, one of the state’s great barbecue experts masters—or pitmasters—puts it: ‘Barbecue is one of those things you don’t bring up in mixed company. Barbecue, religion and politics are all three guaranteed to get you into some sort of fight.’

Now, the industry has a whole other fight on its hands, with news that Wendy’s has become the latest fast food chain to add barbecue-inspired items to its menu.

Barbecue is one of those things you don’t bring up in mixed company. Barbecue, religion and politics are all three guaranteed to get you into some sort of fight.

‘Those who live outside the traditional Barbecue Belt of the United States have long been deprived of an abundance of quality barbecue, but this ends today,’ Wendy’s announced last week. Taking its inspiration ‘from local barbecue spots’, Wendy’s is offering barbecue pulled pork in the form of a sandwich, cheeseburger, and cheese fries.

‘It’s a way of latching to the popularity of barbecue and at the same time, really cheapening it extraordinarily,’ says Daniel Vaughn, barbecue editor of Texas Monthly.

So why does it matter?

When Arby’s, one of the US’ largest sandwich chains, put brisket on its menu in September 2013, the price of the cut went through the roof. Brisket, which is taken from the chest of the cow, is central to a traditional Texan barbecue. It’s traditionally one of the cheaper cuts of meat, but after Arby’s came into the buyer’s market the price increased by 44 per cent in a year, from about US$2 per pound to US$3.

‘Take something like the McRib at MacDonalds. No matter how atrocious it might be, it doesn’t really affect the cost of any particular cut, because they are just using any bits and pieces of minced pork to form that pattie,’ says Vaughn.

‘But when places like Arby’s start buying up the specific cuts that barbecue joints are used to using—like the brisket or parts of the pork shoulder—that’s going to start driving up the cost for those specific cuts and really putting a dent into what your everyday pitmaster can make on the food that they’re selling.’

The barbecue tradition

The varieties of barbecue vary within Texas, drawing their influences from early European immigrants, Carribbean slaves, and Mexicans. Whether you prefer the direct heat cooking found in the Texas Hill Country, the no-frills salt and pepper ‘Dalmatian’ rub and indirect smoking techniques of central Texas, or the barbacoa tradition of cooking a whole cow head in a covered pit (these days it’s more often an oven) in southern Texas, the meat choices are usually the same: sausages, brisket and pulled pork.

‘These fast food chains are just looking for a way to create new customers by having an exciting menu item, but also they’re looking for a way to use cheaper meats as well,’ Vaughn says.

While the price of beef cuts like brisket, have risen steadily over the past few years, pork remains more affordable.

‘I think Wendy’s’ pulled pork sandwich is just a thinly-veiled way of cutting their costs,’ says Vaughn. ‘They’re spending a lot less money on this pork cushion meat that they get out of the shoulder than they would on ground beef.’

Passport: barbecuing Texas-style Listen to this story at RN Drive to hear more.

Whether the fast food chains’ take on barbecue will push traditional pitmasters out of the game remains to be seen. As Vaughn wrote in his latest column: ‘Barbecue has history. It is a part of us and our community, not just a menu item.’

‘You can compile a few ingredients and make a pork sandwich, but you’re not doing barbecue or its fans any favours, and you can’t recreate tradition by checking off a simple grocery list.’

RN Drive is an engaging two hours of current affairs, analysis and lively conversation, with special coverage of Asia-Pacific regional affairs and global business.



