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Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler.

Chicken wings may seem off-brand for Octo Fishbar, the Tim McKee-helmed St. Paul spot probably best known for its seafood towers and crudo plates. But the restaurant’s pimento wood-smoked Jerk Chicken Wings ($8) benefit from the same attention to detail that defines so much of what Octo serves.

The interior of the wings are moist, firm, and dense; the exterior is just right, too—a smokey, crispy, chewy barrage of flavor that complements the simplicity of the meat. It’s easy to look at a place like Octo, spot the $160 Leviathan seafood tower, and consign it to the “special occasions only” column of your dining notebook. What these wings and a fine happy hour assortment of beers and wines counter-propose is: What if you could come here and have something delicious whenever you felt like it?

THE DISH: Jerk Chicken Wings, $8

THE PLACE: 289 5th St. E., St Paul

THE REASON: Deep smokey flavor, firm texture and rich flavor make these wings winners