I apologize for such a late update. With the announcement of the 1080 GTX I sent back my ordered GPU and will wait on that. I have also been trying to plan out my loop and figure out what to do for sleeving. Since I am doing all this for the first time it takes a lot of thought and research for me to figure it out.<br><br><span style="text-decoration:underline;"><span style="font-size:16px;"><b>Radiator/Motherboard/CPU Mount/Test Tubing Runs</b></span></span><br><br>

I have mounted the motherboard, CPU and radiator. I have also been practicing bends so I completed 2 test runs. The real runs will actually use black tubing. I wanted to do it once before I fully commit and since tubing isn't that expensive in the grand scheme so far it has been a good idea. Learned a lot by just doing it. It also allowed me to change my mind about the direction of a run which had to happen a few times due to how hard tight 45 degree angles are to accomplish.<br><br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787603/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="2787603" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787603/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" style="; width: 350px; height: 263px"></a><br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787604/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="2787604" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787604/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" style="; width: 350px; height: 263px"></a><br><br>

I had to clean my old CPU water block. I did not think it was necessary to buy a new one and I really like the look of my Apogee XT so I took it apart to clean it. Holy **** I almost decided to say "**** it" and buy a new block. I am not a fan of most of the looks out there though so I stuck with it. I did a lot of googling and tried ketchup, rice vinegar (this was all had) and a waterpik. I could not scrub it because there are little tiny pins so the waterpik was a awesome idea. I decided to head out and get white vinegar and mixed it with some salt. Let that sit for hours a couple times and just waterpiked it all off. Eventually I got what you see below which is probably good enough.<br><br><b>Before</b><br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787605/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="2787605" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787605/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" style="; width: 350px; height: 263px"></a><br><br><b>After</b><br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787606/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="2787606" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787606/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" style="; width: 350px; height: 263px"></a><br><br>

For the tube bending I actually created a few tools to help.<br><br><b>Mandrels</b><br>

I designed and 3d Printed some mandrels for 45 degree and 90 degree angles. <a class="bbcode_url" href="http://www.123dapp.com/123D_Design/Mandrels/5647421" target="_blank">You can find the design here.</a> It is a pretty slow website though. So I attached the STL here.

<span huddler_attributes="{"plugin":"attachment","params":{"id":"41575","name":"5647421_Mandrels.zip","description":"45\/90 Degree Mandrel Design for 3D Printer","size":23,"type":"zip"}}" huddler_plugin="attachment">

<a

class="attachment HM-tool loginreq" href="/attachments/41575" title="45/90 Degree Mandrel Design for 3D Printer"><span class="file zip">5647421_Mandrels.zip <span class="details">23k .zip file</span></span>

</a></span><br><br>

They are designed to fit 1/2" tubing perfectly so that you can trace the tubing outline on a sheet of paper or something. It can help design a loop a bit easier. This is similar to the center line design that Monsoon uses but I preferred the outer edge vs the center. It is more accurate IMO.<br><br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787609/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="2787609" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787609/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" style="; width: 350px; height: 263px"></a><br><br><b>Modified Silicon Insert</b><br><br>

I had a hard time finding the right insert. Seriously this is more important than most anything IMO when bending. I tried the default Primochill insert. Idk if got ripped off but the thing has no core so it is just a tube. This caused it to collapse if you made bends too fast or to far. It was rough. So I had another by XSPC but this thing was too large. I tried sanding it... That tool a long time and got me maybe 2 inches in. I bought the Monsoon one. That was super short but when in too easy. This actually caused the tubing to collapse on the outside if you pressed on it too much or weren't careful.<br><br>

Anyhow all in all I liked the fit of the primochill although it was a bit tough to get in super deep so I modified it. I'll get to that in a second. So first step fix the no core issue. I decided to cut a large wire from a USB cable and stick it down inside.<br><br>

Filled the Core<br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787611/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="2787611" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787611/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" style="; width: 350px; height: 263px"></a><br><br>

The next issue was getting to my super deep bend. I couldn't not get the primochill that far even with soap so *** do I do now? The monsoon is too short and the XSPC won't fit at all. I decided to drill a hole at the end of the tube and take some yoyo string I had and tie it to the end. Best idea ever! I now don't need soap at all. I thread the string through the tube and pull and the silicon insert just slides right through!<br><br>

String tied to end of primochill silicon insert<br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787613/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="2787613" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787613/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" style="; width: 350px; height: 263px"></a><br><br><br><span style="text-decoration:underline;"><span style="font-size:16px;"><b>Started to Sleeve the PSU</b></span></span><br><br>

This is a pretty easy task and another that requires you to just try it to figure it out. But man it is tedious. The one thing I was super happy with was how I dealt with the double wires on this PCI-E cable. I ended up just cutting a small piece out of the divider between the two wire inserts to give room for the double wire with sleeves. The way I sleeved it was by cutting the sleeving at an angle and melting the 2 sleeves together at the split.<br><br>

I will have to resleeve the black colors because this is not what I expected with Shade-19 MDPC. I thought it would be more black than grey. Oh well.<br><br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787616/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="2787616" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787616/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" style="; width: 350px; height: 263px"></a><br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787617/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="2787617" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787617/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" style="; width: 350px; height: 263px"></a><br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787618/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="2787618" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2787618/width/350/height/700/flags/LL" style="; width: 350px; height: 263px"></a><br><br><i><span style="text-decoration:underline;"><span style="font-size:16px;"><b>Next Step - More Sleeving/More tubing/GPU.</b></span></span></i>