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I was told it was supposed to look like a butterfly, but squinting through a telescope thousands of feet up a volcano on a cold, windy night, I’ll confess: I couldn’t see a butterfly.

That didn’t make the sight any less awe-inspiring, however.

A tightly packed cluster of white-hot stars twinkled 1,600 light years from where I stood shivering on the island of La Palma.

Away from the light pollution of UK cities, the sky came to life in front of me: endless glittering pinpricks in the blanket of darkness stretching from one horizon to the other.

Next, I looked at Saturn’s rings with my very own eyes – something which is always difficult to comprehend.

That feeling intensified when I found myself staring at the Andromeda galaxy, a mind-bending 2.5 million light years away from Earth.

“You are looking back in time two-and-a-half million years,” our tour guide told me.

“If anything happened to it, it would take that long for us to find out.”

We had met at one of the island’s many astronomical viewpoints for an introduction to the night sky, examining celestial objects as close as our own moon’s craters.

It’s La Palma’s great sky quality, with low levels of air and light pollution, which has made it such an attractive destination for scientists and, increasingly, for “astro tourists”.

Astrophysicists flock to its impressive observatory almost 8,000ft above sea level on the island’s highest peak, Roque de Los Muchachos, where more than a dozen giant telescopes are helping to shed light on our ever-expanding universe.

Having grown up a self-confessed “space geek” using my dad’s portable telescope in our garden, I was totally awestruck seeing these beasts of the astronomy world up close.

Visitors can walk around them at leisure and tours take place daily if you want to get a glimpse inside.

Unfortunately you’re not allowed to use the big telescopes yourself, but you can rent an amateur scope from Astro La Palma for €20 a night to do your best Professor Brian Cox impersonation.

Budding astronomers will find few better places in the world to stargaze. Although I spent so long looking up, I did get a sore neck.

(Image: Moment RF)

If you’re not much of a night owl and are more interested in our own star, the sun, there’s plenty of that to go around.

Closer to Africa and the equator than mainland Spain, La Palma enjoys the same year-round warm sunshine as the other Canary Islands.

But it’s a world away from the stereotypical bar strips in more popular destinations, where restaurant promoters try to coax you inside every few steps.

There’s none of that in La Palma.

Instead, I discovered a delightfully rural, authentic Spanish island, as yet unspoiled by tourism, where visitors pay the same cheap prices as locals.

It’s just beginning to get the hang of hosting more visitors as airlines start new services – and one of those is easyJet, from Gatwick.

The Hotel Parador de la Palma offers a convenient base close to the airport, with charming rooms, excellent service, dramatic ocean views and delicious local dishes in its restaurant.

For something a little quirkier, Hotel Hacienda de Abajo in Tazacorte is a delightfully unique “live-in museum” packed to the brim with antiques.

Children aren’t allowed at this hotel which, with its beautiful gardens, spa and small pool, is a haven for adults looking for peace and quiet.

The capital Santa Cruz is a world away from big Spanish cities.

(Image: Nicola Oakley)

A stroll through this sleepy town only took 15 minutes, but I was rewarded with beautiful churches and brightly coloured 15th century cottages lining its one main, narrow road.

It’s on the east coast, where in a flash the weather can turn cool and damp, but the west is mainly warm and dry, thanks to the peaks in the centre of the island which stop the clouds in their tracks.

I spent a glorious afternoon lounging lazily in the heat on a sparkling, jet-black beach in Tazacorte, cooling off in the crystal-clear Atlantic waves as they crashed on to the shore.

There’s plenty to keep tourists busy on La Palma, so don’t be fooled by its tranquillity.

Hiring a car is the best way to explore, with lots to see out of the window along the way.

It’s a place of extremes, where barren, rocky plains of solidified lava quickly give way to lush, bright green pine forests as you travel higher up the slopes.

I spent a fun afternoon at the seawater pools of Charco Azul, where the power of the Atlantic has eroded the rock to form makeshift swimming baths.

Feeling adventurous, I stayed close to the sea wall as huge, powerful waves crashed over my head and swept me away.

Once back on my feet, I continued to explore the land by hiking around volcano calderas and past waterfalls, strolling through the pretty pastel streets of El Paso, visiting the salt fields on the southern tip and sampling local delicacies.

Grilled goat cheese with garlic mojo sauce and “papas arrugadas” – heavily salted boiled potatoes – are just some of the must-try, delicious staples.

And to walk off all the calories from the meat, cheese and carbs, keen hikers are spoiled for choice with trails for all abilities throughout this dramatic landscape.

Some of the best are in the Caldera de Taburiente National Park – where the observatories are – which, as

the name suggests, is a volcanic caldera formed two million years ago.

At six miles across, it’s by no means the world’s biggest, but it’s certainly some sight.

Those looking for a more taxing workout might prefer a trek to the highest peak, but I opted for a peaceful walk around the edge of the caldera at La Cumbrecita, feeling dwarfed by the towering pine trees as clouds floated past me.

After exploring much of the land, I hopped on a boat in search of the Atlantic’s marine life, soon spotting a pod of dolphins arcing gracefully in and out of the water and darting playfully around us as we sped along.

When they had grown tired of chasing our boat, our captain sailed us close to shore, expertly steering into mystical caves before we headed back to the harbour.

I watched the sun set on my holiday over the deep blue ocean and waited for the stars to slowly reveal themselves again, one by one.

More so than its warm weather, La Palma’s real selling point is its stunning night skies.

However you enjoy this beautiful island by day, just remember to look up once the sun goes down.

Grab a telescope or binoculars, find Saturn’s rings, look back in time at far-flung galaxies – and see if you have more luck spotting that butterfly.

Get there

easyJet flies from Gatwick to La Palma from £36.49 one way based on 2 people on the same booking.

Rooms at the 4* Parador de la Palma, near Santa Cruz de la Palma, start at €105pn on B&B.

Rooms at the 4* Hotel Hacienda de Abajo, near Tazacorte, start at €125pn on B&B.

Tourist info: visitlapalma.es

Book a stargazing session: Ad Astra La Palma.

Boat trips and whale watching: Fancy 2

Time zone: UK time.

Currency: Euro £1 = 1.12

Best time to go: La Palma’s Sirius-ly good all year round