The man-made and natural light shows don’t get much better than from the terrace of Tapasuma, a restaurant on the grounds of the Sumahan on the Water hotel. As the moonlight on the water intensifies, the sparkling lights on the First Bosporus Bridge change from white or yellow to pink or blue and even turquoise. The seasonal menu is international with a Turkish twist. Start with Circassian chicken with walnuts or a skewer of sesame-coated beef with a Roquefort dip, then move to sea bass stew or marinated fillet of beef. End with three Turkish milk puddings: rosewater, berries and mastic. Or try the semolina halvah with caramelized pears and vanilla ice cream. Sip your Sevilen Isabey cabernet-merlot into the night as Turkish executives at the next table discuss their investments. Dinner for two, about 350 lira, with wine.

Saturday

4. The Empire Spreads Back | 9 a.m.

It’s not Topkapi, despite being nearly as lavishly decorated, but the 19th-century Beylerbeyi Palace is an impressive Imperial Ottoman edifice with Baccarat crystal chandeliers, grand staircases, Yildiz porcelain, Hereke carpets and an indoor marble fountain with carvings of frolicking dolphins. It was once host to visiting European royalty, and its last official overnight guest is said to have been Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, founder of the Turkish Republic. The 20 lira entrance fee includes a tour in English.

5. A Blend of Beliefs | 11 a.m.

The arts colony of Kuzguncuk was once a melting pot of cultures and boasts a mosque and a synagogue, plus Greek Orthodox and Armenian churches, along with a crop of cute cafes. Rows of colorful wooden townhouses with carved-gingerbread balconies have made this zone a destination for new brides with photographers in tow. Souvenirs by local designers line the shelves at Bir Kuzguncuk Dukkani, like painted Popsicle-stick bookmarks by Ayse Durukan (20 lira) or small purses of recycled materials from the Cop Madam cooperative (50 to 90 lira), which employs, and empowers, Turkish housewives.