







Summer 2004 (12.2)

Pages 70-75

Wine and Wagons

Helenendorf: Azerbaijan's First German Settlement



by Jacqueline Grewlich-Suchet



Left: The main street of Khanlar which was once called Helenendorf and the settlement of German immigrants. The houses were built in the mid-1800s. Photo: Jacqueline Grewlich



Below: Typical architecture of the homes hand made by settlers who came to Helenendorf from Germany. in the early 19th century.



But about 180 years ago, another exiled population had chosen to settle down in this fertile region. Curiously, they came from Germany. Again, the culprit was war, which had left their community desperately struggling to find ways to survive.



Jacqueline Grewlich-Suchet, wife of Klaus Grewlich, the German Ambassador to Azerbaijan, writes about some of the history of these first Germans who settled in Azerbaijan. She gathered this information from residents living in the town of Khanlar itself and from historians of Azerbaijan's Academy of Science. In 1909 in his book, "A German Colony in the Caucasus", Count Schweinitz wrote a description about a German settlement called Helenendorf [now Khanlar]. Here's the picture he painted of the little town in the northwestern region of Azerbaijan nearly 100 years ago.



Above: (Left) Interior of the German Church in Helenendorf (now Khanlar) in the northwestern region of Azerbaijan. The church was built in the mid-1950s. Photo: Azerbaijan National Photo Archives.



Right: During the Soviet period, the interior was converted into a sports center where basketball and volleyball were played. These days, the governor of the region has designated the building as a museum. Perhaps in the future, it may reconverted to a Community Assembly building. Photo: Jacqueline Grewlich .



"From every corner of Helenendorf, there's a wonderful view of the snow-covered mountains that forms the magnificent background of this beautiful village. Towards the south, you can see the Small Caucasus Mountains, towards the north lies the mighty chain of the North Caucasus. To the east lies cultivated land as far as the horizon.



Left: The German Church at Helenendorf where wine-making was one of the main agricultural activities. The church was built in 1857-1859. Photo: Azerbaijan National Photo Archives.



"When you walk along the western - most street of Helenendorf - the Talstrasse - you can enjoy the view of a gorge and then of a hill with graves from the past, dating back a few thousand years. There is little water in the Ganja River now and seeing this small stream, it's hard to believe that once it swept away an impressive stone bridge. The entire valley is covered with vineyards - a beautiful scene, even in winter.



Two buildings can be seen in the gorge in the area of Helenendorf, one of which is a modern mill supplied by electrical power owned by the Vohrer brothers; the other, an electric power station built by the Baku branch of the Berlin Electricity Company.



"The bazaars and open workshops, which are so characteristic of the Orient, are missing from Helenendorf. Nor can the agricultural character of the locale be felt because walls block the views of the farmyards with their equipment, tools and compost heaps. There is a multi-colored Oriental hustle on the streets caused by the passers-by and the inhabitants of numerous tribes."



On Easter Tuesday in 1819, nearly a year and a half after leaving their native land, German settlers from Schwaben [Stuttgart, Ulm and Reutlingen in Southern Germany] arrived in a valley region in what is present-day Azerbaijan. They finally made the decision to settle and try to make this place their new home.



It was Russian Czar Alexander I who bestowed the name "Helenendorf" upon the German settlement, in memory of his beloved sister Helen Paulovna who had died at an early age. Today, the town is known as Khanlar or "place of the khans". Above: Top: Bottling Factory for Wine in the Helendorf region, late 1800s and early 1900s. The wine was from the Helendorf region which was cultivated by the Germans who had settled there. Photo: Azerbaijan National Photo Archives. Below: Grave markers mark the German graves in the cemetery at Helenendorf in northwestern Azerbaijan. The town is now called Khanlar.



Czar Alexander enforced the Immigration Regulations of Empress Catherine. The government required that newcomers should be good craftsmen or farmers, specializing either in wine growing, silk production or cattle breeding. Also they should marry and have children.



Why Leave Germany?

But why had the Germans left their homeland in the first place? Actually, there were various reasons that influenced their decision to emigrate from Germany and eventually settle in the Caucasus. The primary factor, most likely, was the dire political and economic situation in the southern German provinces as a consequence of the Napoleonic wars [1789-1815].



At that time, many Germans migrated to North America. Others held religious convictions that the anti-Christ would soon appear and that the place of salvation was to be found east of Mount Ararat [in Turkey, purportedly where Noah's ark rested after the Great Flood]. These ideas were propagated by Pietist Bengel and Jung-Stilling.



Left: Vineyards in Helenendorf that were cultivated by the Germans who fled the aftermath of the Napoleonic wars and settled in northwestern Azerbaijan. Photo: Azerbaijan National Photo Archives.



The role of Juliane von Krüdener also is believed to have figured into the decision. She is said to have influenced the Russian czar, whom she met in Heilbronn, the heart of Schwaben land, in seeking permission to allow the Svebians to emigrate. This occurred during the years immediately following the Napoleon War, which ended in 1815.



In those early days when the Svebians first settled in the Helenendorf region, they had no source of income and, consequently, were deeply indebted to the crown. They had already sold the possessions that they had carried with them to make the journey to Odessa [now Ukraine]. Then came the march from Odessa to the Caucasus. The Svebians finally arrived on the steppe of Khanlar, totally empty-handed: no money, no equipment, no seeds, not even the necessary clothing to warm themselves in the foothills of the Caucasus mountains. It's likely they were close to despair. However, it was their belief in God that kept them going. The moment they realized that there was no way to return, they settled in and determined to fight for their survival with courage and contempt for death.



Survivors

It's true that the Svebians were saved from hunger because neighbors came to their rescue, and the Russian crown offered them loans. The settlers' workload was extremely difficult. They had to cope with bad weather, extreme heat, unhealthy accommodations and poor nutrition, which made them susceptible to serious diseases. Only 118 families were left remaining in the province. Other families died out entirely, including those with names such as Aichler (from Tubingen), Hartenstein (from Balingen), Kies (from Degerloch), Epp, Votteler, Hummel, Vohrer and Klein (from Reutlingen).



Left: Science classes in Helenendorf. Prior to World War II, when all Germans were exiled to Siberia. Photo: Azerbaijan National Photo Archives.



Of course, one should not forget the other ravages that these early settlers had to deal with - the assaults and war (1826), the ravaging plague (1829), cholera (1830) and the severe frigid, icy winter that destroyed spring crops and vineyards (1831).



Afterwards, there was a calmer period for the Helenendorf settlers. In fact, the Russo-Turkish War (1855) with its troop mobilization enabled the people of Helenendorf to make considerable profit from the sale of their agricultural products. Furthermore, they began to set up businesses driving wagons that they had constructed themselves. Many people earned their living transporting goods.



Despite the Russo-Turkish war and the serious unrest along the Caucasian border regions, the people of Helenendorf succeeded in constructing a church in 1857-1859. The architect was Eichler.



A chronicle of that period described the significance for the community in building the church: "The calm self-confidence expressed by this decision" positively affected the reputation of the town, as well as the security of the people of Helenendorf and their neighbors. Eventually, they were able to pay off their debt to the Russian crown. In addition, the construction of the Caucasian railway in 1883 through the region greatly improved their opportunities to sell their agricultural products.



Vohrer Brothers

The story of the Vohrer Brothers is impressive. In 1846 Christopher Vohrer planted a vineyard on one hectare of his land. He paid particular attention in selecting the type of grapes to cultivate, taking into account the conditions of climate and soil. Obviously, he was successful because in 1856 the French silk traders praised Vorher's wine while passing through the nearby town of Shaki. Christopher Vohrer had worked as a shoemaker, postman and wagon maker before fully directing his attention on his vineyards in 1860.



As an entrepreneur, Vohrer had founded a joint stock company as early as 1862. In 1870, he created a family company known as "Christopher Vohrer and Brothers". Systematically, he began to expand his property by purchasing additional land. In 1892, the 65-year-old Christopher passed the company on to his sons. The successful company continued its activities under the name Vohrer Brothers, which sold 350,000 liters of wine annually. By the time World War II broke out, the company also owned several brandy, cognac breweries, wine distilleries, a water mill, a brewery and a stud farm.



The Hummels

By 1895 the Hummel family had established a crafts company. They also planted vineyards and set up a wine cellar to distribute wines from Baku to Tbilisi. In 1895 a cognac factory was built in Helenendorf. The Baku-Tbilisi Railway further facilitated their commercial success. They even used their wine-making knowledge to help control pests. Large wood and stone barrels which were lined with glass as well as press and cooling systems also led to the improvement in the taste of the wine. Press residues were even sold as dyes for printing.



At the beginning of World War I, the Helenendorf enterprises accounted for between 3 to 15 percent of grapes, wine and cognac production in the entire Transcaucasus and Russia, according to Eva Maria Auch in her book, "Oil and Wine in the Caucasus", 2001.



The Azerbaijani government supported the work of German National Committee in the fields of education, culture and religion. German intellectuals in Azerbaijan cooperated with their Azerbaijani colleagues in establishing high schools, the oil industry and medical institutions.



Disaster Strikes

However it wasn't long until the repercussions from Hitler's attack on Russia in 1941 were felt by the Azerbaijani Germans living in Helenendorf. Anyone of German origin was immediately identified and deported en masse. On October 17, 1941, a decree led to the confiscation of all their homes, giving them all to the government. The only proof of the many years of their hard labor was a receipt from the local Soviet authorities and the meagre possessions that they were able to carry in their hands. The deportation was carried out on October 18 and 19. And so these German settlers were hauled away by truck to Ganja, a city in north central Azerbaijan. From there, this human freight was sent on to Baku by rail, then further east via the Caspian Sea to Krasnovodsk in Turkmenistan.



At that point, a long freight train journey awaited the exiled settlers. It consisted of a 5,000 km journey eastward via Ashgabad, Samarkand to Tashkent, then further north to Orenburg (Ural Mountains) and from there 1,000 km eastwards to Omsk (Siberia). The final stretch was 500 km south to Zelinograd (Kazakhstan). Understandably, many of settlers did not survive the gruelling trip, and died en route, according to Ulrich Mohl who wrote, "The Schwabish Pioneer Spirit in the Caucasus - the Russian German Colony of Helenendorf," 2002/3.



Relationships Today

Azerbaijan has not forgotten the Germans nor their successful wine growers, wagon constructors and architects. Nor have the names of prominent designers who built prominent buildings in Baku under the auspices of Oil Barons been forgotten either. Their names include such illustrious architects as von der Nonne, A.W. Eichler, I.W. Edel and F.A. Lemkul. Other landmarks which have a German imprint on them exist in downtown Baku, such as the Lutheran church.



The complex adjacent to the church, known as the Kappellhaus was renovated in 1999 by German companies and has since become the center of Azerbaijani-German cultural exchange. These days, many families who trace their origins to Germany no longer speak the German language. For that reason, the German Embassy supports many musical performances at the Kapellhaus, music being a universal language that can be understood and appreciated by all.



Scattered throughout the country and capital are graves of Germans and German prisoners of war - another stark reminder of history but which reflects the friendship that has long existed in the community here in Azerbaijan.



Helenendorf Today

The Schwaben houses which are located in the heart of Azerbaijan in Khanlar / Helenendorf are now part of Azerbaijan's cultural heritage. The vibrant culture of the people who settled Helenendorf can still be felt today especially when you visit Victor Klein's house. Klein, now in his late 60s, is the last surviving German in Azerbaijan. In 1941, as a mere child of 5 years old, he was not forced to leave the country along with the other members in the community as his father had been killed and the child was declared to be Russian.



One of the distinctive characteristics of Helenendorf is the hand-made furniture. Victor loved his mother so much that when she passed away, he left everything in the house in tact and preserved. The furniture is the same as it had been in 1850s. There still is a Christmas tree that Victor has kept for about 40 years. Victor's father had handcrafted all the furniture from cherry and walnut with designs that express dignity and grace.



Unfortunately, these days some of the houses in Helenendorf are in serious disrepair: roofs leak and much of the wood has rotted.



As was true throughout the Soviet Union (1920-1991), most churches were closed. Helenendorf was no exception. The chapel was converted to a Sports Hall where basketball and volleyball were played.

However, recently the Azerbaijani governor of the region has converted the church into a museum. Plans are being made to conserve and renovate the building with the help of the German government.



An expert of the German Society for Technical Cooperation (GTZ) has already prepared recommendations for the Federal Ministry of Economic Cooperation to support the idea of the restoration of the church and the transformation of the sanctuary from a sports hall into a museum and a conference meeting room. Plans also are being made to restore some of the German houses in the village as well. Perhaps it will even be possible to restore Victor Klein's house along with all its furniture.



In July 2003, the German Embassy in Baku and some of the German companies which have established themselves in Azerbaijan have begun to restore some of the grave markers in the town. Some of them had fallen over and become broken or damaged. However, most of the artistic inscriptions on the graves can still be read. And still today more than a century and a half later, they provide a poignant and sacred reminder of the days that have past and of the people who lived and worked so hard to create this community.



Future Projects

A future project that may be realized together with Azerbaijani partners would be the restoration of the Helenendorf vineyards so that once again wine could be produced in the region. As well, furniture making could be re-introduced, based upon the beautiful square furniture of the period.



Not far from Helenendorf is the glacial Goygol Lake with its wonderfully cool mountain water and beautiful scenery. Perhaps, it would be possible in the future for Helenendorf to become one of Azerbaijan's tourist attractions - a meeting center in a politically peaceful, culturally unique, rich and economically stable Caucasus.



Whether this happens or not is yet to be seen, but the souls of the Helenendorf Schwabs call out to us. We should press forward along with our Azerbaijani partners, step by step, to preserve the memory of those who preceded us, who were guided by decisiveness, courage and determination. Jacqueline Grewlich-Suchet is the wife of the German Ambassador in Azerbaijan. She has graduate degrees in Architecture from Paris (Beaux-Arts) and Archaeology (Louvre). Later she specialized in tropical medicine and practiced obstetrics. In Azerbaijan, she involves herself in social work and has helped to rehabilitate Siyazan clinic and the Guba asylum. As well, she is involved with some of the local orphanages.





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