A convert outside a village church A convert outside a village church

As the sun sets behind the hills, students of St Xavier's School at Harmutty in Assam's North Lakhimpur district gather for prayers, a normal ritual in schools run by Christian priests. But there is one remarkable difference here - out of the 270 boarders in the school, 220 are tribals from Arunachal Pradesh who have been converted to Christianity.

They are not the only ones. Ten years ago, there were hardly 5,000 Christians in Arunachal Pradesh, a state of 8.5 lakh people. Today, over 60,000 Christians are spread all over lower Arunachal.

The sharp rise in conversions is creating serious social and religious tensions in the state. More important, it has put the state Government in a quandary, mainly because of the Arunachal Pradesh Freedom of Religion Act (1978). The idea behind the controversial act was to ensure that tribals do not get converted to Christianity (or any other religion) and preserve their indigenous faiths.

But the sudden increase in Christian converts has made a mockery of the act, more so since the act itself prohibits missionaries from entering the state. In fact, the conversions have occurred despite the best efforts of the Arunachal Government.

For a decade, successive governments in Itanagar have used the privilege of the act to keep Christianity out of the state. Officials steadfastly refuse to issue inner-line permits (mandatory for every outsider entering the state) to Christian missionaries.

But the missionaries found an ingenious way to bypass the obstruction. They established themselves all along the state's border with Assam, setting up churches, schools and hospitals. Educational institutions run by missionaries have sprung up all along the border.

Said Dibrugarh-based Bishop Thomas Menamparambil: "We do not need to go into Arunachal any more. The number of Christians in Arunachal will keep increasing as more and more tribals all over the North-east are accepting Christianity." The confidence is not misplaced. The border areas have seen the maximum number of conversions.

Out of a population of about 70,000 in Lower Subansiri district bordering Assam's North Lakhimpur district, 30,000 are converts. Tadar Taniang, Lower Subansiri district Congress(I) committee president, predicts that within a decade 70 per cent of the state's population would have turned Christian. Said he:" We will not let the act function. We will oppose it with violence if it is forced on us. We must have the same freedom as people in the rest of India to choose their religion."

While it is true that Christian missionaries have strategically positioned themselves all along the state's border with the specific purpose of converting the tribals, the increasing number of conversions cannot be attributed only to missionary zeal. There is a compelling economic factor that has attracted the tribals.

Missionary Prem Bhai with converts Missionary Prem Bhai with converts

The 130 tribes in Arunachal essentially practise animism. Their religion, locally known as Donyi Polo, involves the worship of the sun and the moon. It is replete with rituals, mostly of a costly kind, where animal sacrifices are made for the slightest excuse, including minor ailments.

An average tribal family spends over Rs 15,000 a year on such sacrifices, a sum they can ill afford. Christianity, on the other hand, helps them avoid such expensive rituals. Says Yorda John. 25, a government contractor: "We got bankrupt getting sacrifices done. We feel so relieved now."

Adds Tasar Teshi, a Nishi tribal who got converted three years ago: "We were always sacrificing for spirits. So many of us had to sell off our property because of rituals. Christianity has saved us from debt."

But with the rise in conversions has come a parallel rise in religious tension. There is now a silent war going on between Hindu and Christian missionaries in Arunachal. It is quite obvious that Hindu missionaries have the official backing of the ruling elite in the state. The Ramakrishna Mission and the Vivekananda Kendra have set up schools and hospitals in Arunachal with state government aid.

Christian missionaries charge that this is proof of government discrimination as it is ready to allow Hindu organisations to function while even a respected missionary like Mother Teresa was not allowed to open a home for the needy in the state. Chief Minister Geong Apang says that this is only because Hindu organisations do not go around converting tribals.

Within just 10 years, the number of Christians in Arunachal has leapt from 5,000 to 60,000 today. Clearly, the legislation meant to control religious conversions has failed.

But in this ongoing battle, it is the Christian missionaries who are likely to ultimately be the winners as their commitment and zeal is unparalleled. Moreover, their resources, Apang points out, are also something the state cannot match.



The greater concern is the opportunity for the wrong kind of foreign elements to incite separatism as they did in Nagaland and Mizoram. The most quoted example is of Reverend Scott, a British missionary, known as the father of Naga insurgency. The church, however, says such fears are completely unfounded.

Says Father Cherian: "That we are whipping up anti-national feeling is all propaganda. We are involved in getting tribals educated and they naturally start asking for their rights. And so we are blamed." Adds Father George Plathottam, a Shillong-based missionary: "If we wanted to exploit tribals we would not have tried to educate them."



The current crop of missionaries in the North-east is mostly from Kerala. They are a totally committed lot and have reached out into areas in Arunachal Pradesh which have not seen a government official for decades.

They tirelessly trek along dirt tracks for days on end just to reach remote tribal pockets to preach the faith and to render essential services like medical aid which is badly needed. This has touched many a tribal who feels that the religion cares for his innate needs.

St Xavier's School, Harmutty: Relentless work St Xavier's School, Harmutty: Relentless work

These missionaries make it clear that they do so at great personal risk. After faking their identities, as they cannot enter otherwise.

Father Francis Thottathimyalil has travelled into remote areas of the state, walking for as many as 14 days to preside over church services. There are no pucca churches in Arunachal as the state Government does not permit their construction.

So thatched churches are constructed in Christian-dominated areas. Henry Gaikwad, a very dedicated missionary, now dons saffron robes and has changed his name to Prem Bhai.

He looks at the Indian church as an ashram, he says. With his new name and attire, Prem Bhai travels all over Arunachal escaping the sharp eyes of intelligence men. "We do not forcibly convert anyone," he points out. "But if tribals come pleading that they want to be followers of Christ, can we stop them?"

Most of the backward pockets of the state have now come into the Christian belt. Out of the 52 families living in a small settlement in the heart of Itanagar, 44 are now converted and three thatched churches have come up. In some areas like Tarasu village in Sonitpur district of Assam, which is in the foothills of Arunachal, most of the poor Nishi tribals have been converted.

Gumto village, which is in the foothills of Arunachal near Harmutty, has 25 poor Nishi tribal families. All have turned to Christianity. The youngsters sport western dresses but the elders still wear traditional clothes.

Recent convert Takar Geamir conducts a service in church Recent convert Takar Geamir conducts a service in church

Says teenager Peter Yorda, a recent convert: "The missionaries are not rigid. They do not interfere with our life-styles and allow us to do what we want. Many of the converted tribals have not even been asked to change their names."

Some of the converts are very grateful to the missionaries as they provide medicine, food grain and cash to the needy. Says Takar Geamir, another recent convert: "They help us whenever they can. Some of us do feel alien in a new culture but we will get used to it."

The changing religious pattern is, however, giving rise to social tensions. Kyoda Haka, an elderly Nishi tribal in Itanagar, is constantly being pressured by live of his eight children to convert to Christianity as they have done. He has resisted, but does not know how long he can hold out. "We elderly tribals will try to cling on to our tradition as long as we can," says he.

On the other hand, Christian tribals have cut themselves off from religious rituals like animal sacrifice entirely. They have also kept away from community meetings, an essential part of tribal culture.

The state Government's disapproval has led to some curious Christian innovations. Arunachal must be the only place in the country where services in Catholic churches are not conducted by priests. Since they are refused entry, one of the young converts plays the role of a Catechist (person who propagates the faith).

The missionaries are totally committed and travel for days to reach remote tribal pockets to preach and render essential services.

He can, of course, conduct only the prayer service and not the holy mass. Points out Bishop Thomas Menamparambil: "Catholics need pastors for the mass and to hear confessions. Without pastors, spiritual care is not complete. But the Arunachal Government cannot see the problem."

The present Geong Apang Government, however, has no intention of letting the state become predominantly Christian. Bishop Thomas applied for an inner-line permit last year to attend church services during Christmas but was officially informed that "his presence would cause social tension".

Says Finance Minister Tshering Tashe: "Christian missionaries are just waiting for us to open our gates. The day we do, they will rush in and change the character of the state." Authorities in Assam are also restricting the movement of missionaries in the border areas.

But even as Christians multiply in the state, political parties are slowly adopting a new view. Tomo Riba, former chief minister and president of the People's Party of Arunachal, says that missionaries should be permitted into Arunachal as India is a secular state.

Father Cherian doing his rounds Father Cherian doing his rounds

Though not a Christian himself, Riba hails from Lower Subansiri where over 40 per cent of the population is Christian.

There is a growing realisation in sections of the Government that more conversions are inevitable and that it should adopt a more pragmatic view of the situation. "There is nothing we can do," says Industry Minister Todak Basar. "It is for the people to realise what is happening and stop getting converted, if they think it is in their long-term interest."