Photo: Michael Paulsen / Houston Chronicle Image 1 of / 42 Caption Close

Image 2 of 42 Plantain empanadas stuffed with cheese is a featured dish at Hugo's. Plantain empanadas stuffed with cheese is a featured dish at Hugo's. Photo: Steve Campbell / Houston Chronicle

Image 3 of 42 Duck mole sopesito, rabbit tinga and pork cracklings in salsa verde are a featured dish at Hugo's. Duck mole sopesito, rabbit tinga and pork cracklings in salsa verde are a featured dish at Hugo's. Photo: Steve Campbell / Houston Chronicle

Image 4 of 42 A passion fruit "margarita" at Hugo's. A passion fruit "margarita" at Hugo's. Photo: Steve Campbell / Houston Chronicle

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Image 6 of 42 Hugo's Restaurant appetizer: Mushroom and Corn Fungus Quesadillas. . Hugo's Restaurant appetizer: Mushroom and Corn Fungus Quesadillas. . Photo: Michael Paulsen / Houston Chronicle

Image 7 of 42 Hugo's Restaurant appetizer: Mushroom and Corn Fungus Quesadillas. Tuesday, July 7, 2009, in Houston. ( Michael Paulsen / Chronicle ) Hugo's Restaurant appetizer: Mushroom and Corn Fungus Quesadillas. Tuesday, July 7, 2009, in Houston. ( Michael Paulsen / Chronicle ) Photo: Michael Paulsen / Houston Chronicle

Image 8 of 42 Hugo's restaurant entree: Filete del Campesino made from tenderloin stuffed with squash, mushrooms, huitlacoche, and chihuahua cheese, topped with tomatillo salsa. Hugo's restaurant entree: Filete del Campesino made from tenderloin stuffed with squash, mushrooms, huitlacoche, and chihuahua cheese, topped with tomatillo salsa. Photo: Michael Paulsen / Houston Chronicle

Image 9 of 42 Hugo's Mushroom and Corn Fungus Quesadillas. Entree: Filete del Campesino made from tenderloin stuffed with squash, mushrooms, huitlacoche, and chihuahua cheese, topped with tomatillo salsa. Hugo's Mushroom and Corn Fungus Quesadillas. Entree: Filete del Campesino made from tenderloin stuffed with squash, mushrooms, huitlacoche, and chihuahua cheese, topped with tomatillo salsa. Photo: Michael Paulsen / Houston Chronicle

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Image 11 of 42 Hugo's Mushroom and Corn Fungus Quesadillas. Entree: Filete del Campesino made from tenderloin stuffed with squash, mushrooms, huitlacoche, and chihuahua cheese, topped with tomatillo salsa. Hugo's Mushroom and Corn Fungus Quesadillas. Entree: Filete del Campesino made from tenderloin stuffed with squash, mushrooms, huitlacoche, and chihuahua cheese, topped with tomatillo salsa. Photo: Michael Paulsen / Houston Chronicle

Image 12 of 42 Hugo's Restaurant appetizer: Mushroom and Corn Fungus Quesadillas. Tuesday, July 7, 2009, in Houston. ( Michael Paulsen / Chronicle ) Hugo's Restaurant appetizer: Mushroom and Corn Fungus Quesadillas. Tuesday, July 7, 2009, in Houston. ( Michael Paulsen / Chronicle ) Photo: Michael Paulsen / Houston Chronicle

Image 13 of 42 Chef Hugo Ortega Chef Hugo Ortega Photo: Michael Paulsen / Houston Chronicle

Image 14 of 42 Hugo's Restaurant Hugo's Restaurant Photo: Michael Paulsen / Houston Chronicle

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Image 16 of 42 At Hugo's: milkshake of Mexican chocolate ice cream, cafe de olla, mescall and rum. At Hugo's: milkshake of Mexican chocolate ice cream, cafe de olla, mescall and rum. Photo: Alison Cook / Houston Chronicle

Image 17 of 42 At Hugo's: margarita, straight up At Hugo's: margarita, straight up Photo: Alison Cook / Houston Chronicle

Image 18 of 42 At Hugo's: tortillas are made inhouse At Hugo's: tortillas are made inhouse Photo: Alison Cook / Houston Chronicle

Image 19 of 42 At Hugo's: chile-spiced bar peanuts At Hugo's: chile-spiced bar peanuts Photo: Alison Cook / Houston Chronicle

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Image 21 of 42 Chiles en Nogada at Hugo's in Houston. Chiles en Nogada at Hugo's in Houston. Photo: Paula Murphy

Image 22 of 42 Hugo's owner Tracy Vaught <cq>, from left, and her husband and chef Hugo Ortega <cq> Hugo's owner Tracy Vaught <cq>, from left, and her husband and chef Hugo Ortega <cq> Photo: Kevin Fujii / Houston Chronicle

Image 23 of 42 Hugo's Sunday brunch offers patrons a variety of Interior-Mexican cuisine like Alfajores <cq>, a dessert cookie sandwich with dulce de leche inside, Hugo's Sunday brunch offers patrons a variety of Interior-Mexican cuisine like Alfajores <cq>, a dessert cookie sandwich with dulce de leche inside, Photo: Kevin Fujii / Houston Chronicle

Image 24 of 42 Hugo's Restaurant appetizer: Mushroom and Corn Fungus Quesadillas. Entree: Filete del Campesino made from tenderloin stuffed with squash, mushrooms, huitlacoche, and chihuahua cheese, topped with tomatillo salsa. Tuesday, July 7, 2009, in Houston. ( Michael Paulsen / Chronicle ) less Hugo's Restaurant appetizer: Mushroom and Corn Fungus Quesadillas. Entree: Filete del Campesino made from tenderloin stuffed with squash, mushrooms, huitlacoche, and chihuahua cheese, topped with tomatillo ... more Photo: Michael Paulsen / Houston Chronicle

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Image 26 of 42 Chef Hugo Ortega makes gorditas. Chef Hugo Ortega makes gorditas. Photo: Buster Dean / Houston Chronicle

Image 27 of 42 Chef Hugo Ortega makes gorditas. Chef Hugo Ortega makes gorditas. Photo: Buster Dean / Houston Chronicle

Image 28 of 42 Hugo's offers regional Mexican desserts like the churros stuffed with dulce de leche and chocolate ice cream with a side of hand made Mexican hot chocolate. Hugo's offers regional Mexican desserts like the churros stuffed with dulce de leche and chocolate ice cream with a side of hand made Mexican hot chocolate. Photo: Kevin Fujii / Houston Chronicle

Image 29 of 42 Chef Hugo Ortega, left, and herb farmer Pat Rapesak pose with a basket of squash blossoms at Hugo's. Chef Hugo Ortega, left, and herb farmer Pat Rapesak pose with a basket of squash blossoms at Hugo's. Photo: Buster Dean / Houston Chronicle

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Image 31 of 42 Crepes at Hugo's. Crepes at Hugo's. Photo: Buster Dean / Houston Chronicle

Image 32 of 42 Cajeta dessert crepes, top, and Huitlacoche crepes. Cajeta dessert crepes, top, and Huitlacoche crepes. Photo: Buster Dean / Houston Chronicle

Image 33 of 42 The Hugorita The Hugorita Photo: Buster Dean / Houston Chronicle

Image 34 of 42 Hugo's Flan de Queso Hugo's Flan de Queso Photo: Houston Chronicle

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Image 36 of 42 Hugo's Tacos Dorados de Papas. Hugo's Tacos Dorados de Papas. Photo: Alison Cook / Houston Chronicle

Image 37 of 42 Hugo's. Lamb shank with mole coloraditio and butternut squash. Hugo's. Lamb shank with mole coloraditio and butternut squash. Photo: Alison Cook / Houston Chronicle

Image 38 of 42 Pan de cazon at Hugo's. Pan de cazon at Hugo's. Photo: Alison Cook / Houston Chronicle

Image 39 of 42 Hugo's zucinni & corn, mushroom & pepper quesadilla Hugo's zucinni & corn, mushroom & pepper quesadilla Photo: Mayra Beltran / Houston Chronicle

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Image 41 of 42 Hugo's rotisserie chicken Hugo's rotisserie chicken Photo: Mayra Beltran / Houston Chronicle