In the quiet midst of the Mongolian steppe, nomadic herders are producing one of the world’s largest supplies of cashmere – made from Mongolian goat hair. Global cashmere demand has resulted in the number of goats in Mongolia rising from 5 million to 19.3 million in 20 years. The fragile terrain combined with the hooves of a goat has had a negative impact on the environment, pushing 90% of the Mongolian landscape at risk of desertification. Yak wool could solve some of the problem.

Yaks are the largest of the bovine family, living in the high altitudes of central Asia. As a result of the harsh, tundra conditions, the yak has adapted by growing a fine layer of down underneath their outer-layer of hair. The outer-layer is coarse and hardy, traditionally used to make rope and weave materials for nomadic tents. It is the down beneath this robust outer-layer that produces a luxury fiber that can be spun into shawls and scarves.

Yak wool is fine and comely, typically between 17 to 19 microns in diameter. This, combined with its softness, makes it similar to cashmere. Contrary to popular belief, yak wool is odourless because the anti-microbial properties of the fibre prevents bacteria living on the sweat of the yak, reducing odour. Myristic acid is also present in yak fibres, which helps keep the heat in beneath it; reports suggests it is warmer than merino wool.

The similar properties of yak wool with cashmere have led to some in the fashion industry to believe it’s a great alternative. Tengri yak fibre has already started being stocked in some of London’s finest stores, with some products selling from £11,000 upwards. The high price is consistent with the high-quality and rarity of the wool, with high demand for those who can afford it.

With the damage to the Mongolian environment by huge herds of goats, an increase in demand for yak wool could reduce the impact on the fragile landscape. The Khangai yak, indigenous to Western Mongolia, could preserve the country’s landscape because they’re gentler on the fragile steppes, while additionally helping to save the population’s nomadic lifestyle.

Desertification of the steppe is a serious consequence of the global demands that the fashion industry has on the environment. We are coming to the end of the United Nations’ decade for deserts and the fight against desertification. Drylands now take up over 40% of the land surface and is still expanding. The growth of the yak wool industry in competition with cashmere is one small solution to part of the problem.

But with the current prices of yak wool products, the likelihood of yak wool becoming readily available remains a distant future. While cashmere remains more affordable and abundant, the steady erosion of the Mongolian steppes will continue. It’s a small reminder that even knitting and crochet can have a wider impact on our planet, and perhaps there are ways in which we can all help to preserve our fragile ecosystem.