Perhaps it’s an effect of the seemingly endless campaign season, but honesty seems to be in short supply these days, so a restaurant with a name like Forthright — implying straightforwardness and sincerity — seems like a refreshing change of pace.

This newly opened spot that replaced Hawg’s Seafood Bar in a Campbell shopping center is still focused on seafood, but with a new look and chef-restaurateur Jim Stump at the helm. Stump has a long history of successful ventures including The Table in Willow Glen.

He was also involved in Los Gatos Brewing Company and the popular A.P. Stump’s in downtown San Jose before it closed in 2009 as the economy bottomed out. Fans of that restaurant will be happy to learn one of the signature dishes from there, poached lobster with johnnycakes, has been revived at Forthright.

Stump is so sincerely committed to the success of his new venture, he was there working in the kitchen during both of our visits.

That kitchen opens to the marble bar that curves around the oyster station all the way to the cocktail bar, where a bartender shook crafted cocktails ($10 each) served in pretty coupes and poured countless glasses of wine from a diverse and affordable wine list.

The marble, coupled with wood tables and charcoal walls, gives the restaurant an air of no-nonsense sophistication. There’s also a good-sized patio, a perfect spot for slurping oysters and sipping wine on a warm fall evening.

We took a seat directly in front of the oyster station in chairs that were slightly too low so that the counter hit us at chest height, making me feel like a little kid. We watched as the oyster shucker deftly opened and dutifully sniffed each one, while keeping the baskets of bivalves iced. The restaurant’s domain name is “eat oysters forthright” — without hesitation — and so we did, ordering a few with a glass of crisp white wine, a Grillo ($9) from Sicily.

The oysters ($2-$3.75 each) come from all along the West Coast, Baja to British Columbia; the famed East Coast Blue Point oysters are here too. The oyster menu, featuring at least eight varieties, takes cues from the world of wine, offering poetic taste descriptors like “sweet and meaty” or “with a crisp, cucumber finish.”

We tried both Kumamotos from far Northern California and more petite Fanny Bay oysters from near Vancouver and found the descriptions on point. They’re served with mignonette, the traditional vinegar-shallot sauce, and a delicious house-made cocktail sauce laced liberally with horseradish that made me wish Forthright also offered a shrimp cocktail.

If raw oysters aren’t your thing, they have several cooked varieties, including two versions of oysters Rockefeller. The original ($10) is made with butter, Pernod and breadcrumbs, while the modern ($11), which we tried, is richer, topped with creamed spinach and bacon. It was tasty and is a good gateway dish into full blown oyster eating.

Fried oyster tacos ($8), are another dish in that gateway category. The crisp, panko-coated oysters were topped with a vegetable slaw, dressed lightly with ponzu and came in a flavorful corn tortillas.

After finishing our oysters, we waited quite some time for our next dish. The restaurant was packed at 6 p.m. on a Saturday, and it was obvious the kitchen was swamped. Our server assured us it was coming and pointed out Stump, who stood admirably shoulder to shoulder with the kitchen crew, working with a calm sense of urgency to get orders out.

Our octopus ($15) came slightly too charred on one end, but the rest was flavorful and nicely cooked. It was served with mixed greens and a vibrant green olive tapenade that was the highlight of the dish, but the two marble-sized potatoes on the dish seemed a measly portion.

The Coulotte steak, a cut from the sirloin ($26), ordered medium, was clearly rushed and was extremely rare in the middle. A portion of it was so tough that I couldn’t chew it, although another piece of the meat, peppery and well-seasoned, proved more tender.

The pork chop ($22), which was supposed to be medium-rare, was closer to medium well, but remained juicy, thanks to a flavorful brine that saved the dish, along with the accompanying sweet potato puree topped with bacon and chard.

There were problems with other dishes on a previous visit, too. An heirloom tomato salad ($11) was doused too heavily in vinegar, rendering the flavor of the peak-season tomatoes obsolete, and ceviche ($6) is made with tilapia, a curious choice, considering the fish has nearly flavorless, almost-muscular flesh that doesn’t lend itself well to raw preparations.

We were won over, though, by the butter-poached lobster with johnnycakes ($22), a dish that was a signature at A.P. Stump’s and will be here, too. The johnnycakes are made with a slightly sweet cornmeal batter that’s studded with salty bits of bacon — and they’re addictive. I almost hated to spread the herbed mascarpone served with the dish on them, but it was a nice addition that complemented them perfectly, as did the firm, slightly sweet lobster tail.

Scallops ($25) served atop a buttery, nutty farro risotto were sweet and succulent, although I’d prefer a more pronounced sear on them.

Desserts provided a strong finish to both meals. A cobbler ($6) made with thinly sliced apples and plump blackberries had a delicious, not-too-sweet shortbread topping and was plenty for two to share. It was a close call, but the piping hot ricotta beignets ($) won me over with their fine texture and simple sugar coating drizzled lightly with caramel.

On both occasions service was top-notch. Staff members were attentive and pleasant, even on the busiest of nights, including a manager who checked in with us on a couple of occasions to make sure everything was all right.

In the interest of being forthright, there were some dishes here that need work, but there are plenty of others worth ordering, and seafood is a good bet. That, coupled with the pleasant atmosphere and service, make Forthright a good choice for a night out. Honest.

Contact Jennifer Graue at food@bayareanewsgroup.com.

FORTHRIGHT OYSTER BAR & KITCHEN

2 ½ stars

WHERE: 1700 W. Campbell Ave., Campbell

CONTACT: 408-628-0683; http://eatoystersatforthright.com

PLUSES: The johnnycakes with poached lobster are worth the trip. Service is attentive, even at busy times.

MINUSES: Meat dishes were not well-executed.

NOISE LEVEL: Buzzy to loud at the busiest times.

HOURS: 4-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 11:30 a.m.-9:30 p.m. Sunday

POLICY: Restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously; the Mercury News pays for all meals.