Mas del Périé Cahors La Roque 2014 $19.99

Malbec nowadays is mostly identified with Argentina. The fact that it’s a French grape, with long traditions in several regions of France, is often forgotten. People who despair of the fruity sweetness of many Argentine malbecs may be interested in a wine like this Cahors from Mas del Périé. Made from grapes grown on clay and limestone, the wines are clear and precise, with flavors of red fruit and fine minerality. (Fruit of the Vines, Long Island City, N.Y.)

Le Rocher des Violettes Touraine Côt Vieilles Vignes 2014 $19.99

Here is another expression of malbec, or côt, as it’s better known in the Loire Valley. It comes from La Rocher des Violettes, a fine, under-the-radar producer perhaps better known for its whites. It’s much more floral, with some ripe red fruit flavors but an underlying minerality and, surprisingly, it’s got more grippy tannins than the Cahors. (Skurnik Wines, New York)

Volpaia Chianti Classico 2014 $15.99

I keep hearing that the public has turned away from Chianti. Perhaps people are tired of familiar names, or maybe Chianti was its own worst enemy, regularly redefining itself in the 20th century until nobody knew what to expect. Regardless, the result is that many of the wines can be great values, like this one from Volpaia, gorgeously fragrant of cherries, herbs, tobacco and earth, with the acidic structure characteristic of the sangiovese grape. (Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, Calif.)

Les Brebis Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2015 $19.96

Good, moderately priced pinot noir from California is tough to find, because most of it comes from areas not well suited to the grape. Searching for well-priced pinot noirs is far more rewarding in Oregon, where land and labor costs have not accelerated out of control. This one from Les Brebis, a small producer in the Willamette Valley, is direct and without the sort of artifice often found in inexpensive pinot noirs. Its earthy flavors of red and black fruits and herbs pair well with pork, chicken and salmon.

Cooper Mountain Vineyards Willamette Valley Cooper Hill Pinot Noir 2015 $18.99

Why, here’s another one, also from the Willamette, and quite different in style from the Brebis. It’s made from organic and biodynamically grown grapes, and is equally elegant in profile. It’s a little more floral and herbal, and it has a meatier character, with a deliciously savory edge. Try it with hearty soups.

Valle Dell’Acate Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2013 $17.99

With so much attention focused on the Sicilian region of Mount Etna, the wines of Vittoria are often overlooked. Cerasuolo di Vittoria, the area’s leading wine, made about equally of nero d’Avola and frappato, is fresh and energetic, yet deceptively concentrated. Valle Dell’Acate may not make the best Cerasuolo of the region, but its wine is a great value, pure and lovely year after year. The ’13 is substantial yet lively, with deep flavors of flowers, red fruits and licorice. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)