At 11 miles, unspoilt Patara is Turkey’s longest beach. Even more important, Patara has escaped the development that mars many lesser beaches around the Mediterranean thanks to the ruins of the once mighty ancient city from which the beach gets its name, and the resident Loggerhead turtles, a protected species which has been laying its eggs here for the past 40 million years.

From the south-east end of the beach, you can admire the distant towering limestone peaks of Lycia. At their feet sprawls a fertile plain, where farmers grow tomatoes, sweet peppers, aubergines and other Mediterranean staples. Between this cultivated land and the serried ranks of umbrella pine-fringed dunes nuzzling the beach, a patchwork of limpid lagoons forms a haven for wildlife. You may catch the croaks of frogs or the trills of wading birds above the crash of breaking waves. To the right, a mountain ridge plunging into the turquoise sea marks the furthest extent of the beach. Gaze west, across low waves curling gently across the vast expanse of sandy shallows that make this beach so attractive to families, to the Greek island of Rhodes, 50 miles offshore. With the exception of the small café, there is nothing man-made in sight.

Fortunately for holidaymakers, the low-key, low-rise village-cum-resort of Gelemi (which is also referred to as Patara) lies in a shallow valley a little over a mile inland. Centred around a few restaurants, shops and bars, the village didn’t come into existence until the Fifties, when the nomadic pastoralists who spent their summers high in the Lycian mountains and their summers on the plains around here, decided to establish a permanent base.

To reach the beach, you pass through the ruins Photo: ALAMY

No tour companies operate in Patara, so everything is independent. The pensions and eating and drinking places are run by local families; most of the delicious food is produced locally. The only beach café is run by the local authority, and profits are ploughed back into the area. This café is also the place to hire beach loungers and umbrellas.

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To reach the beach, you pass through the ruins, which have an admission charge of £1.25. However, those staying for a few days can purchase a site and beach pass, which allows 10 visits, for £1.85; under 12s are free. Note that the beach is off-limits between sunset and 8.30am.

Patara has escaped the development that mars many lesser beaches around the Mediterranean Photo: ALAMY

Founded by the mysterious Lycians, Patara became an important city in the Roman Empire. Its surviving buildings – a monumental triumphal arch, newly restored council chamber, bathhouses, temples, colonnaded streets, theatre and much more – are fascinating to explore. A team of archaeologists from Antalya University excavate here each summer, and millions have been spent on reconstructing important buildings.

With the exception of the small café, there is nothing man-made in sight Terry Richardson

Should you tire of beach life, there’s the Lycian Way to walk (best avoided in the heat of summer), birds to watch, canoeing and rafting on the nearby Dalaman river, scuba-diving and horse riding - plus bustling local markets, secluded mountain villages and remote ancient sites within easy reach.

Getting there

Thomas Cook (0871 895 0055, flythomascook.com) flies into Dalaman from Gatwick and Manchester year-round, and from April - October from regional airports. Monarch (08719 405 040; monarch.co.uk) and Thomson (0844 871 0878, flights.thomson.co.uk) offer seasonal flights from several UK airports. British Airways (britishairways.com) flies from Gatwick, while Easyjet (0843 104 5000, easyjet.com) has flights from a number of UK airports. Turkish carriers Onur Air (0850 210 6687, onurair.com) and Pegasus (0845 0848 980, flypgs.com) also fly to Dalaman. Returns from as low as £100. Patara is around 90 miles from Dalaman airport. You can arrange a private transfer through your Patara accommodation for around £60. Several car hire companies operate from the airport (dalamancarrentalcom) from £78 per week.

Where to stay

Akay Akay

The simple but spotless rooms are great, but the real draw is the superb home-cooking of charming hosts; this is traditional Turkish food at its freshest and best (0242 843 5055; pataraakaypension.com; doubles from £26)

B&B Camelion

Located well away from the village, just 10 minutes’ walk from a small beach, Camelion will appeal to those who really want to get away from it all. A family-run place, it has its own pool and offers Turkish cooking lessons. Great sea and sunset views. (0536 643 9199; bbcamelion-com.webnode.nl; doubles from £44)

Patara Viewpoint

This charming hotel has a hillside setting with fine views over the village and sea, its own pool, fruit tree-filled garden, Ottoman terrace and cedar-burning wood stove. En-suite rooms are compact but stylish and comfortable; hosts Muzaffer and Anne-Louise are friendly, knowledgeable and helpful. They also have four self-catering apartments in the village. (0242 843 5184; pataraviewpoint.com; doubles from £45)

Founded by the mysterious Lycians, Patara became an important city in the Roman Empire Photo: ALAMY

Where to eat

Café

This wood and reed-matting beachside eatery, which sits in the shadow of the ruins, dishes up well-priced drinks, snacks and lunches.

Esra’s Pancake House

Female-run place specialising in delicious flatbreads known as gozleme. Try traditional fillings such as goats’ cheese and herbs, spicy potato or mincemeat, or kid friendly honey and banana or chocolate spread.

Tlos

A good bet for traditional staples including stews, grilled fish and salad, or pide (Turkish pizza). Right in the centre of Gelemi village.

Inside track

The Lycian Way, a superb 300-mile-long marked walking trail, passes right by Patara. Take binoculars to enjoy the birdlife, from Bitterns to Marsh Harriers, Syrian Woodpeckers to Glossy Ibis. See cultureroutesofturkey.com.

Did you know?

Ancient Patara was home to one of the world’s first democratic parliamentary systems; the council chamber, which once held over 1400 citizens, cost the Turkish government £3.6m to restore.

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