The busiest tables at lunch in Fort Worth these days may be at a new place called Taste Community Restaurant. That's because some of the best food in town is served here, yet some people don't even pay for their meals. And that's fine with the owners.

Opened on the Near Southside last December, the modern, casual restaurant is a donation-based business. Husband-and-wife team Jeff and Julie Williams created Taste Project, a 501(c)3 nonprofit -- he's the chef and she runs front-of-the-house operations -- and welcome everyone, but their particular goal is to make sure people who cannot afford food can get something good to eat.

"Specifically," says Julie, "the missing middle 90 percent of the hungry who are not homeless and don't qualify for government assistance. They might be choosing between food and medical bills or medication, be a single parent trying to make ends meet, be between jobs."

Jeff and Julie Williams hold a plate of duck scaloppini with red cabbage and cherry wine sauce in their new restaurant, Taste Community Restaurant in Fort Worth. (David Woo / Staff Photographer)

Pay what you can

No prices are listed on the menu, nor are any shown on the check presented at the end of a meal. The idea is that guests pay what they can afford, or what they'd pay for a similar meal at another restaurant.

Taste is a welcoming space, filled with natural light and contemporary, blond wood furnishings made by local craftsman Atticus Broadbent. There's an exposed brick wall covered by shelves holding terra cotta pots of green plants, and the cheery mood presented by the staff -- which is 80 percent volunteer -- convinces you they've shown up specifically for you.

Julie Williams, co-founder of Taste Project at Taste Community Restaurant in Fort Worth, serves Angela Callaway, from left, Lisa Gerhard, right, and her son, Rowan Gerhard of Mansfield during lunch on March 8, 2018. (David Woo / Staff Photographer)

Chef-level dishes

Jeff's accomplished cooking (the self-taught chef previously won fans as a popular class instructor at Central Market in Southlake) has quickly turned plenty of curious diners into regular patrons.

From the day it opened, Taste built a following for grilled shrimp atop creamy cheese grits, butternut squash risotto and hearty chili made with rib-eye steak. Farro tossed with broccolini, cauliflower and snow peas in lemon vinaigrette and topped with poached egg is one of several vegetarian favorites, along with the vegan-friendly, deeply satisfying celery root-green apple soup.

The addictive pimento cheese bruschetta will soon be replaced in the spring menu change by sweet pea bruschetta, but Jeff promises that the spicy carrot soup, incorporating coconut milk, ginger and curry, will remain on the new menu, as will the juicy, towering burger accompanied by roasted potatoes. Other new menu items, due to land later in March, include bacon-lettuce-fried green tomato sandwich, steak frites and Panang curry, the latter testing well as a recent daily special.

Duck scaloppini with red cabbage and cherry wine sauce (David Woo / Staff Photographer)

A calling for the couple

The Williamses are former Californians who moved to the Dallas-Fort Worth area in 2005, and they had other careers. Jeff owned an IT business before easing into private chef work, and Julie worked in sales and marketing in the medical device industry.

They felt called to this effort and followed the example set by One World Everybody Eats, an Idaho-based organization that created the model for community cafes and now supports more than 60 pay-what-you-can community cafes in the United States. Founder Denise Cerreta received the 2017 James Beard Humanitarian of the Year Award for her efforts.

Jeff and Julie were drawn to the community cafe model, which offers a setting that's appealing to all diners and a menu featuring local, seasonal and organic ingredients. Julie notes that it's not meant to replace soup kitchens but rather provide an interesting alternative to those in need.

A sample check a customer would receive after finishing a meal at Taste Community Restaurant, 1200 S. Main St. in Fort Worth. (David Woo / Staff Photographer)

Staying on track

Relying on volunteers and donations comes with challenges, of course. The Williamses estimate that $10,000 in monthly donations is needed to cover fixed expenses and payroll and to push Taste to self-sustaining status. To help meet goals, the restaurant offers meal tokens for $20 to cover your lunch (plus a little extra), and there's an easy donation option on the Taste Project's website. So far, they're serving 75 to 85 guests on a busy day, usually Friday. It's early yet to assess success.

"So far we are slightly behind our monthly milestones to ensure we are on track to be self-sustained in five years," Julie says, noting that the people Taste hopes to help are finding the restaurant through other nonprofits and word of mouth. "We measure success in number of patrons who come through the door, percentage of folks in need, number of volunteer hours served, and program revenue. We need to increase the number of folks who can pay what they typically pay or a little more in order to reach those in need."

For now, dinner service isn't yet planned, but discussions about weekend brunch are taking place. Taste is hosting special events, including an Easter brunch on April 1. Taste is BYOB, should you want a glass of wine with your lunch, and fine stemware is supplied.

Open Tuesday through Sunday at 1200 S. Main St., Fort Worth, 817-759-9045. Visit tasteproject.org for details and to donate or make a reservation.

June Naylor is a Fort Worth freelance writer.

Jeff Williams, chef and founder of Taste Project at Taste Community Restaurant in Fort Worth, right, checks on his customers during lunch. (David Woo / Staff Photographer)

Celery Root and Green Apple Soup

1/4 cup grapeseed oil

2 pounds celery root, peeled and cubed

4 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored and cubed

2 yellow onions, chopped

8 cups vegetable broth

Salt and white pepper, to taste

1 tablespoon each chopped Italian parsley and chives, for garnish

2 tablespoons diced Granny Smith apples, for garnish

Warm oil in a pot and sauté celery root, apples and onions until just softened, about 10 minutes.

Add vegetable broth and bring briefly to a boil, then reduce and simmer for 20 minutes. Blend the mixture until smooth.

Season with salt and white pepper to taste. Divide evenly among bowls and garnish with parsley, chives and apple.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

SOURCE: Taste Community Restaurant