You know what you’re getting with Glashutte Original: classically-inspired, flawlessly-built timepieces in the finest traditions of Saxon watchmaking. It’s what we expect year on year, with maybe a funky dial or two to liven things up. Well, this year the Glashutte stalwart has thrown a curveball – three of them, in fact.

The Glashutte Original SeaQ is a seriously cool triumvirate of sports divers, about as far a cry from the stereotypical GO piece as McLaren is from building vans. The good news though is that they work very, very well.

There’s precedent of course; back in the 50s and 60s, Glashutte Original was more inclined to build serious, practical pieces. In fact, it’s only in relatively recent years they’ve upped their haute horology game to where they are. The SeaQ is a lovely way to reflect their roots.

The capsule ‘Spezialist’ collection comprises three pieces with very distinct personalities, each based on the original 1969 Spezimatic Type RP TS 200.

Glashütte Original Spezialist SeaQ

First up is the basic 39.5mm SeaQ. It’s small, sexy and suited to ISO 6425 professional standards with a decent movement: the nicely-decorated calibre 39-11 with 40 hours of power reserve.

The colours are simple, with a black dial and ceramic bezel with retro cream indexes and numerals. The steel case is solid and the khaki canvas strap is a nice, military-slanted addition. Still, if that’s not quite vintage enough for you, there’s always the SeaQ 1969 Limited Edition.

Glashütte Original Spezialist SeaQ 1969 Limited Edition

This is the most faithful to the original Type RP TS200, although it’s pretty much identical to the standard SeaQ apart from a few minor dial differences, such as the lume coated hands and a “25 Rubis Shockproof” inscription instead of “Glashütte” at 6 o’clock. It shares a case and even on the dial the changes are only really noticeable when you see them side by side. Still, it’s a lovely piece and a lot can be said for the exclusivity of a limited edition – and exclusive this will be. Only 69 will be built.

If you’re after something a little more modern in this unending sea of vintage – we wouldn’t blame you – you’d be better off with the SeaQ Panorama Date.

Glashutte Original Spezialist SeaQ Panorama Date

While there are certainly similarities tying the watches together into a cohesive collection, the Panorama Date is a much more modern take on the diver. First, it’s a good deal larger at 43.2mm; secondly, the sepia-toned numerals have been swapped for straight-up white. Thirdly, it’s also available in blue. Of course, the panorama date at 4 o’clock is another point of difference between this and the standard SeaQ, but then you can get that from the name.

Inside is the calibre 36-13 movement, a Glashutte Original flagship movement with the stripes typical of the little German watchmaking haven. It’s the final point of difference between this and the other two pieces in the collection and shows that there’s plenty of scope to expand the ‘Spezialist’ range in the future. Here’s hoping that’s precisely what Glashutte Original will do.

Price & Specs:

Model Name(s): Glashütte Original Spezialist SeaQ & Glashütte Original Spezialist SeaQ 1969 Limited Edition

Case: 39.50 mm diameter x 12.15 mm height, stainless steel, polished and satin-brushed, with rotating bezel, closed and engraved case back, galvanic black with sunray finish dial

Water Resistance: 200m (20 bar)

Frequency: 28 800 a/h (4 Hz)

Movement: Cal. 39-11, automatic

Power Reserve: 40h

Strap: Stainless steel, synthetic or rubber

Price: €8,500 (SeaQ 39.5mm with rubber or synthetic strap and pin buckle), €8,500 (SeaQ 39.5mm with rubber or synthetic strap and a deployant clasp), €9,700 (SeaQ 39.5mm with steel bracelet), €8,500 (SeaQ 1969 Limited Edition with rubber or synthetic strap and pin buckle) and €8,800 (SeaQ 1969 Limited Edition with rubber or synthetic strap and a deployant clasp)

Model Name: Glashutte Original Spezialist SeaQ Panorama Date

Case: 43.20 mm diameter x 15.65 mm height, stainless steel, polished and satin-brushed, with rotating bezel, centrally screwed sapphire glass, Galvanic black/blue with sunray finish dial

Water Resistance: 200m (20 bar)

Frequency: 28 800 a/h (4 Hz)

Movement: Cal. 36-13, automatic

Power Reserve: 100h

Strap: Stainless steel, synthetic or rubber

Price: €11,000 (textile or rubber strap with the pin buckle), €11,300 (rubber or synthetic strap with deployant clasp) and €12,200 (steel bracelet)

More information at www.glashuette-original.com