The oppressed Kurd is not a scared, cornered animal that bites everyone who comes near it. The oppressed Kurd is a pacifist and friend of humanity and nature.

Turkish Kurdistan. Long have I been waiting for the possibility to visit this region.

A friend told me my wish could come true: the Kurdish organisation of YXK from Germany was planning a trip to the region. I would partake in a delegation existing of Germans and Kurds. I would be the only one from Belgium. Our delegation would travel there to celebrate Newroz (Kurdish new year), show our solidarity with the BDP (Party for Freedom and Democracy) and to learn about the local Kurdish organisations. I did not doubt a second: I had to go there !

Before I realised it, I was sitting in an airplane from Istanbul to Amed.

I have had the opurtunity to see from close by how the Kurds organize themselves. I learned about the autonomous democracy the BDP is trying to accomplish, notwithstanding the constant efforts of the Turkish government to destroy this idea.

I was so lucky to experience the Kurdish hospitality: our group did not have to worry about shelter, food or transport. Spontaneity and organizational skills go hand in hand with the Kurdish youth.

Now that I am back in Belgium, I can not help but feel sadness. Sadness, not only of leaving behind the people that I became close with, but also because of the duality of Kurdistan: A beautiful nature inhabited by a dancing and laughing people, a people that welcomed us like relatives. But also a people that cries, gets locked up, tortured and dies in a cel hundreds of kilometers away from friends and family. A nature that is threatened by projects of the government, which it tries to destroy the culture. Ancient settlements, holy rivers and mountains where pilgrims linger within living memory: it means nothing to the Turkish state.

Cliche or not, it reminds me involuntary of a quote of Ché Guevara:

“Heads and tails, always two sides of the coin. The beauty of the landscape and the natural wealth of the land set against the poverty of those who work it. The nobility and generosity of the poor set against the mean and sordid spirits of those who rule and represent the state.

Amed

Ekoloji Camp

Arriving in Amed we were transported immediatly to a protest camp: “Berkin Elvan Ekoloji camp” in the gardens of Hewsel. Students and activists occupy a natural area in a valley situated between the university and Amed city. The government had started cutting trees to build a upper-class neighborhood. At our arrival, already 7000 trees were cut down.

The activists were camping here since 1 of March.

“For every tree that is cut down we will plant 10 new ones,” a student said. And they were not lying: a few meters outside the camp I could already count hundreds of little newly planted trees.

We were all impressed about the organisation in the camp: there was a big tent where they did screenings for the education of the campers, a little library and toillets. They lit a big fire in the middle of the camp. A few minutes later, everybody gave a small amount of money they could spare to buy new plastic cups for the çay (tea) : “Kommunal”.

Everybody was talking, singing and dancing. There was a relaxed atmosphere. I felt jealous: The Kurdish youth is full of fire for their ideals, actions speak louders than words! A fighting spirit at a large scale is lost in our European youth, the fire has been extinguished.

Sümer Park

The social centers that are established here, are the proof of the BDP’s policy, it is part of the programme that would convert the theory of the autonomous democracy to practice.

Social workers advise and educate the disabled, elder people, women and children. The professional social workers make sure the weakest members of society will be integrated in the community.

That’s how, for example, they started workshops for the disabled: they learn to make different things in an atelier like jewels and other little objects. When this is done, they can exhibit their works in a gallery and put it for sale. They are doing social participation.

The children’s departement is responsible for day care. There are two of these day care centers in the building itself. There are 4 more spreaded across the city. In these places the children are being raised in Kurdish language. The organisation learns the little ones the language their parents were forbidden to talk ( and often they speak it very bad).

What’s more is that there are also social workers who wander in the city to get in contact with homeless children ( a serious problem in Amed) and get them off the streets.

Dersim

“Dersim welcomes you”

Arriving in Dersim, we were immediately thrown into the political atmosphere of the city. Citizens of this place breath politics. We were welcomed by the masses at BDP headquarters. We were greeted by Ergin Dogru, chairman of BDP Dersim, after which people started yelling protest slogans. They had reserved a small room for our group to get right down to business. Soon, we were joined by the most important captains of the party: Ergin Dogru, Mehmet ali Bul (Chair BDP), Nurhayat Altin (co-chair) and Hüseyin Tunç (assistent of the co-chair).

Ergin Dogru: “Dersim welcomes you. This is an Alevi city. Culture is lived here different. Our lifestyle is typical Alevi. Turkey never appreciated this, and thats why this city was always a place of struggle. But we are a stubborn people, thats why we will win the elections!” (And they did).

The people of Dersim have a solid belief in international solidarity. And the fact that our delegation showed up confirmed that these ideals are not yet dead and gone.

Ecology and the destruction of the Alevi culture

Outside the city is the university: surrounded by mountains, situated nearby a big lake. A pretty unique picture for a university.

We watched a documentary about government projects in Dersim. Gigantic plans are made to build up to 6 dams. In some places, they’ve already started constructing. People in villages are forced to leave their homes. Fauna and flora experience irreversible damage and disappear. Rumour has it that there is evil intent on part of the government against the Alevi people: There are more then enough other possibilites to save energy, but the government’s choice is the most destructive: by continuing these projects, the Alevi population is forced to spread out over Turkey. Many holy places are being flooded. The BDP wants to protect these areas to oppose this systematic uprooting of the population.

Wan

BDP headquarters

This five-story building is swarming with activity. We were greeted warmly by youths in traditional clothing. On every floor you would have an organisation that is responsible for a certain aspect of the democratic autonomy. There was a bureau where mediators strive to solve problems between citizens of Wan. Also heavy crimes. The bureau focuses more on women: they give help and shelter to victims of violence and rape. The one who is guilty of the crime has to account for it in front of a ‘people’s court’ with an elected commission. In this people’s court, every civilian of Wan is allowed to speak out. Everybody can partake in deciding the fate of the guilty. Punishments can vary from a fine to being expelled from the community.

The secretary is responsible for the financial aspect of the whole idea. The building is financed by the population.

The top floors are used for education of the youth and the women.

Everybody who works here gets a symbolic wage. This means, they get just enough to survive, and it depends on how much money the people give. If there is a surplus of money (which happends a lot), they donate it to families who have financial problems.

A whole complex that functions by and for the people. The citizen rather appeals to the parallel organisations than the official institutions.

Back in Amed

Election day ! We were divided in small groups and spread out over the city. We would observe from up close how the population of Amed goes to vote. Across the whole city people could go cast their vote in schools.

Arriving at the first school, we could observe and talk with people as much as we wanted. A police officer even had a little chat with us.

However, arriving at the second school, we were asked to leave the building after two minutes. There was some shouting and nervous gestures. The officers showed us clearly we were not longer welcome. As it turns out, the friendly officer of the first school warned his colleagues. We decided to give up due to the fact we were also being followed. Defeated we returned to our meeting point, the cultural centre.

As expected, BDP become the biggest party in Amed. Before I realised, the whole city of Amed was one big street party: people made bonfires on the street, small trucks were packed with flag-waving celebrators. Everywhere people were dancing and lighting fireworks. The BDP office was surrounded by a singing mass. Amed was exploding.

Conclusion

This diary is ofcourse not complete: These are just fragments of it. To write down all impressions, organizations, … it would become to much. There are still things floating in my head that I still need to process. One thing keeps occupying my mind : How is it possible that a people, who gets thrown into the machine of assimilation politics year after year, gets beaten and killed by a merciless army time after time, re-appears out of the shadows against all odds. More confident, more determined, more proud and with more fighting spirit. And that with a combination with a forever lasting love for freedom, solidarity and democracy. The oppressed Kurd is not a scared, cornered animal that bites everyone who comes near it. The oppressed Kurd is a pacifist and friend of humanity and nature.