It was a year of carnitas and rib tips. Of perfectly flaky croissants and hard-fried sticky rice chicken wings. Of playfulness (pulpo enamorado, or octopus in love) and whimsical trickery (tteokbokki, rice cakes that looked like carrots). Of the simple (Japanese milk bread) and complex (Mole & Rain, spheres of horchata, drops of clear gel and horchata gummies with pork belly in Oaxacan mole.) Food & Dining reporters stepped out all over Chicagoland in 2019, discovering, tasting and writing about hundreds of dishes. We brought them to you in restaurant reviews, our daily “Cravings” series roundups and deep dives into single dishes, like the best burgers and best reubens. Many of them were memorable, which makes compiling our favorite dishes of the year a trying task. But reporters Phil Vettel, Louisa Chu, Nick Kindelsperger and Grace Wong made the difficult choices to bring you their individual takes on the best dishes of the year. See them below, then get out there and try them for yourselves. — Joe Gray

Parsnip cake at Good Fortune

One of my favorite desserts of 2019 was Chelsea Tripp’s clever and artistic marriage of sweet and savory — a slender rectangle of cake topped by a ganache of white chocolate and celery root, along with caramelized honey ice cream and miso-ginger caramel. 2528 N. California Ave., 773-666-5238, goodfortunechicago.com — Phil Vettel

Pulpo enamorado at Tzuco

With all due deference to Tzuco’s steak with goat cheese and chipotle fondue — which chef Carlos Gaytan says would be his pick for his last meal on earth — my favorite dish at Tzuco is the pulpo enamorado (octopus in love), an updated classic featuring a long, well-charred tentacle alongside a disk of potato, carrot and peas bound in tuna aioli. 720 N. State St., 312-374-8995, tzuco.com — P.V.

Beef and broccoli at Temporis

Troy Jorge, who joined the Michelin-starred Temporis in June, already has demonstrated great technical skill and a nice sense of humor. This dish is a fine example, a whimsical, upscale take on a Chinese-menu staple. Plancha-seared cubes of wagyu beef stand alongside meandering smears of creamy broccoli puree topped with fried broccoli florets, candied cashews and dots of sour-orange puree. 933 N. Ashland Ave., 773-697-4961, temporischicago.com — P.V.

Kashmiri lamb ribs at Rooh

One of Chicago’s best new restaurants this year, Rooh presents elevated, modernist takes on Indian classics. I could wax rhapsodic about the naan and kulcha on the menu (particularly the shaved-truffle kulcha), but I’ll focus instead on the lamb ribs, slow-braised before being fried to a crispy finish and dabbed with an apricot glaze. Indian umami. 736 W. Randolph St., 312-267-2323, roohchicago.com — P.V.

Chawanmushi at Yugen

When this luxury-level restaurant opened a little more than a year ago, chef Mari Katsumura made a big splash with dishes such as this — a chawanmushi (custard) topped with uni and foie gras ganache, accompanied by parsnip chips, Asian pear chips and a drizzle of smoked-foie fat. That’s a lot of luxury in one little dish. 652 W. Randolph St., 312-265-1008, yugenchicago.com — P.V.

Dover sole at Silencieux

I actually had a couple of memorable Dover soles this year — Brindille offers an outstanding, classic version — but I give the nod to the preparation at this Winnetka restaurant, which fillets the sole tableside with the solemnity of a religious rite before plating it with lobster sauce, hazelnuts and a disk of black rice inlaid with edamame. 64 Green Bay Road, Winnetka, 847-441-3100, georgetroisgroup.com — P.V.

Japanese milk bread at Kumiko/Kikko

One thing common to both experiences at the cocktail-forward Kumiko dining room and the intimate, 12-seat Kikko (downstairs) is this yummy, simple dessert of milk bread (a soft, cloudlike bread), toasted with a blowtorch (sitting at Kikko, you can watch this being done), topped with fermented-honey ice cream and then sprinkled with shaved black truffle. 630 W. Lake St., 312-285-2912, barkumiko.com — P.V.

Tteokbokki at Jeong

This snack, featured on Jeong’s a la carte menu, looks for all the world like cooked carrots, but they’re finger-shaped, schmaltz-poached, chile-bathed rice cakes, topped with quail eggs and pickled mustard seeds. A fascinating visual treat. 1460 W. Chicago Ave., 312-877-5016, jeongchicago.com — P.V.

Mexican paella at Bar Sotano

When I walk into this basement bar underneath Frontera Grill, I immediately order two things: One of Lanie Bayless’ cocktails and chef de cuisine Rishi Manoj Kumar’s Mexican paella — the latter because it takes 25 minutes to prepare. This killer dish combines rice, chicken thighs, shrimp, chicharrones, avocado, tomatoes and peas. The flavors are superb, and when I get some of the crisp-scorched rice at the edge of the pan, I’m in heaven. 443 N. Clark St., 312-391-5857, rickbayless.com — P.V.

Mole & Rain at Next

I love photographs that capture water beads on a leaf; this dish, part of Edgar Tinoco’s Silk & Spice menu at Next last January, brought that concept to life. On a large hoja santa leaf, Tinoco placed spheres of horchata, drops of clear gel and a gel the kitchen called “horchata gummies.” The dish also included pork belly in Oaxacan mole (separate dish), but it’s the leaf I recall vividly. 953 W. Fulton Market, nextrestaurant.com — P.V.

Burger at Table, Donkey & Stick

I tried more than 130 burgers in 2019, a hilarious number that no one should ever try to top. I have many favorites, but I have only one burger to blame for inspiring my quixotic quest. The burger at Table, Donkey & Stick is a strange creation — wild and funky, yet also composed and intricate — which I know not everyone will enjoy. But if you’re interested in exploring the outer realms of what a burger can be, you owe it to yourself to make a visit. 2728 W. Armitage Ave., 773-486-8525, tabledonkeystick.com — Nick Kindelsperger

Carnitas taco at Carnitas Uruapan

Carnitas Uruapan has probably been serving great carnitas tacos since it opened in Pilsen back in 1975. So why mention it now? This year a second location was opened in Gage Park, and the larger space allowed the cooks to finally make all the tortillas from scratch. While this sounds like a small difference, those warm and fragrant tortillas make the expertly fried pork taste even better. 2813 W. 55th St., 773-424-7617, carnitasuruapanchi.com — N.K.

Pita at Galit

I ate a lot of pita in August, when our team explored the many places to eat Mediterranean food in the city. While there are some great options out there, nothing tastes quite like the pita at Galit (complimentary with any order). Chef Zach Engel admits as much, noting that his version is not traditional. Each pita arrives puffed and slightly crusty, though soft and steamy on the inside. Yes, it tastes great with hummus, but I found myself just eating it all by itself. And then asking for more. 2429 N. Lincoln Ave., 773-360-8755, galitrestaurant.com — N.K.

Crispy chicken leg at The Albert

If you find a chicken dish on a downtown restaurant’s menu, it’s often the mildest, least challenging one the kitchen serves up. But no one would say that about the crispy chicken leg offered at The Albert. It’s bold and defiant, even confrontational. Instead of a chicken breast, you get a whole chicken leg, with feet still firmly attached. The kitchen confits the chicken and then fries it to order, so that the skin puffs up and turns crunchy, while the meat stays juicy. The sauce features satsuma, a type of citrus you also don’t see too often on menus. 228 E. Ontario St., 312-471-3883, thealbertchicago.com — N.K.

Pizza at Bungalow by Middle Brow

Serving pizza at a brewpub isn’t exactly revolutionary, but serving pizza that might be the best in the whole city? That’s what you’ll find at Bungalow by Middle Brow, a Logan Square spot that, thanks to its white walls and Instagram-friendly design, looks like it crash-landed in from LA. Instead of heavy and greasy, the pizza here features a gorgeous golden crust given four days to ferment before being used. Topping choices change constantly but tend toward what’s fresh and in season. It’s the closest Chicago has come to matching the unparalleled pizzas served at the much missed Great Lake. 2840 W. Armitage Ave., 773-687-9076, middlebrowbeer.com — N.K.

Reuben sandwich at Boeufhaus

When I set out on my corned beef quest, I thought it was all about the meat. This reuben by chef Brian Ahern at Boeufhaus in Humboldt Park proved me wrong. What might look like a lot of bread gets beautifully gilded, then yields. The beef, even without its tart and forceful foils, stands strikingly alone, not steamed but ever-so-slightly crisped. The house-made corned boeuf with sauerkraut, Thousand Island dressing and Gruyere cheese on potato bread, plus pickle and chips, is available at lunch only. 1012 N. Western Ave., 773-661-2116, boeufhaus.com — Louisa Chu

Croissant at Cellar Door Provisions

We’re living in a golden age of croissants. From classic butter to dark chocolate to chicharron. These naturally fermented pastries at Cellar Door Provisions in Logan Square are baked Thursdays through Sundays, but that’s after a four-day process by pastry chef Erin Koroll. The crust more than crackles; it sparkles. The crumb reveals what seems to be an infinity of tender layers. The depth of flavor will engage you in meaningful conversation. There’s also an impeccable chocolate croissant, when that’s not sold out too. 3025 W. Diversey Ave., 773-697-8337, cellardoorprovisions.com — L.C.

Rib tips and hot links combo at Lem’s Bar-B-Q

You’ve probably eaten your fair share of Lem’s Bar-B-Q in the parking lot, since the Chatham joint doesn’t have a dining room and who can wait to get home? Here’s a pro tip I shared this year while answering the eternal question: Where to eat when visiting Chicago? Take your rib tips and hot links combo one door west to Frances’ Cocktail Lounge. Outside food is allowed in the climate-controlled bar, and the back patio will open when weather permits. It’s a game changer. 311 E. 75th St., 773-994-2428, lemsque.com — L.C.

Dry fried duck frame at Lao Sze Chuan

I miss the old Tribune Tower, mostly because Lao Sze Chuan on Michigan Avenue was my secret lunch spot. I side-eyed the dry fried duck frame on the menu long before chef Tony Hu told me I had to try it. Was he trying to bamboozle us with Peking duck scraps? Instead, the dish is glorious, with hot and spicy deep-fried crispy bits of luscious skin. It’s the ultimate bar food, though admittedly a little tricky to eat, which may be a good thing to slow down your munchies just a bit. 520 N. Michigan Ave., 312-595-0888, laoszechuanusa.com — L.C.

Pour Over Bijou at Starbucks Reserve Roastery

Of course there’s coffee at the world’s largest Starbucks, and five cocktails found only in Chicago, but only the theatrical Pour Over Bijou opened my eyes unlike any other drink this year. Instead of water, they pour alcohol over coffee to extract the flavor of the beans. Of course! And not just any alcohol, but Japanese gin, French green Chartreuse plus Italian Carpano Bianco Vermouth and Strega liqueur. Created in collaboration with local mixologists Julia Momose of Kumiko, Annie Beebe-Tron of Fat Rice and Rachel Miller of Community Tavern, it’s a strong yet subtly herbal and utterly surprising coffee cocktail. 646 N. Michigan Ave., 312-283-7100, starbucksreserve.com — L.C.

Canh ga bo xoi by Thai Dang at Time Out Market

At Chicago’s newest and most expensive food hall, the fried sticky rice chicken wing by chef Thai Dang wins hands down as my favorite food at Time Out Market in the West Loop, and top pick for the best deal. Five bucks for one wing seems outrageous until you see the pterodactyl-size piece. Each one gets wrapped in sticky rice, deep fried until golden, then finished with chile-flecked caramelized fish sauce. Dang’s take on Vietnamese street food shatters expectations with your first bite of the scorched rice crust. Order it fried hard. This might be Chicago’s fanciest food court, but Harold’s rules still apply. 916 W. Fulton Market, 312-637-3888, timeoutmarket.com/chicago — L.C.

Gamjatang at Assi Plaza

The gamjatang at Assi Plaza is the kind of soup that throws subtlety out the window. Each bite is intensely deep and flavorful, with help from a scattering of perilla seeds on top that hit you with a peppery aroma as the bowl arrives at the table. The broth has a rusty red color from the gochugaru, and the beef barely clings to the bones. Dig to the bottom, and you’ll find a thick disk of soft potato that you can easily cut with a spoon. When it feels as if there’s no end in sight to the frigid weather, we can rely on this filling and comforting dish to get us through winter. Assi Plaza, 8901 N. Milwaukee Ave., Niles, 847-583-0791, assiplaza.net/niles — Grace Wong

Cranky Cookie at Cebu

I love a good, nostalgic cookie, and I love the fragrant flavor of ube. So imagine my delight when I had the Cranky Cookie at Cebu, where two soft and luscious ube crinkle cookies gently hug a giant scoop of ube ice cream. The ice cream sandwich is proof that all desserts should be bright purple and made with ube. The cookies are not overly sweet, which allows the subtle vanilla and nutty flavors of the ube to shine through, and they have a lovely, cloudlike texture. I would visit Cebu for these cookies alone. 2211 W. North Ave., 773-799-8650, cebuchicago.com — G.W.

Calf brains at Cafe Marie-Jeanne

Cafe Marie-Jeanne is one of the few places in the city that serves calf brains. The secret to the melt-in-your-mouth, puddinglike cervelle de veau is that it’s brined in caper juice before being fried in butter and served on a toasted brioche with crispy edges. A savory grenobloise sauce (browned butter, pan drippings, fresh herbs and lemon juice) is spooned on top, and the aroma from the herbs and lemon zest rises with each bite. This is not a light dish, nor is it one that exercises restraint. It is rich, decadent and remarkably filling, so budget some time post-meal for sitting back and patting your stomach. 1001 N. California Ave., 773-904-7660, cafe-marie-jeanne.com — G.W.

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