So I had to wait and endure, wondering if the food would live up to its preview by nose? That it did is due to the experience of Zam Zam owner Mohammad Akram of Milton, who has been in the restaurant business for eight years and also runs Mehak Halal in East Boston.

I had picked up takeout from Zam Zam, a new Halal Pakistani and Indian restaurant in Medford, and was heading to a potluck. For half an hour, as I inched along in I-93 traffic, my car was awash in the aroma of freshly baked tandoori naan, steaming paneer tikka masala, and fragrant chicken briyani. Certainly, if I was forbidden to text or talk on a non-hands-free phone, there was no way I could sneak a taste.


The interior at Zam Zam in Medford. Stephanie Schorow

THE LOCALE Seeking a larger location for another restaurant, Akram found a storefront in Medford Square four months ago and turned it into Zam Zam, named after a sacred well or spring in Mecca. Thus far, the décor is modest to the point of austerity. There are brightly colored curtains in the large windows and some traditional Kashmir tapestries gracing the wall.

With a seating capacity of over 50, there’s plenty of room. Takeout from the extensive menu is the chief focus here, but Zam Zam is a pleasant place to linger over a cup of hot chai ($2) or fresh mango lassi ($4).

ON THE MENU What is most striking about Zam Zam dishes is their sense of freshness. The seafood in the shrimp curry ($14) was sweet and juicy; the vegetable biryani ($11) came with bits of fresh mint. The tandoori nan bread ($2) — right out of the oven in the morning — was light and fluffy as a cloud. The tandoori roti ($3), the whole-wheat version, was almost as good but a trifle greasier.


For appetizers, we sampled the vegetable samosas ($4), crisp patties with mildly spiced potatoes and green peas that exhibited a deft touch. We also tried the aloo tikki ($4), patties of dense and flavorful ground potatoes rich in spices.

The paneer tikka masala ($13) with tofu was rich and creamy — a standout dish — while the chicken biryani ($12) prepared Pakistani style was generous in both chicken and taste. The aloo gobi ($10) with potatoes and cauliflower was pleasant. We ordered our dishes mild — which proved to be spicy enough for us — but you can really turn up the volume if you want.

What’s the difference between Pakistani and Indian food? Owner Akram said they are quite similar and the distinction is mostly in the spices used.

Also on the menu are tandoori specials, and desserts such as kheer ($4), a Pakistani-style rice pudding, and gulab jamun ($4), fried wheat balls in syrup. The setting of the restaurant may be modest, but the dishes of Zam Zam are unstinting in flavor.

Zam Zam Restaurant, 42 Riverside Ave., Medford, 781-391-1200, zamzammedford.com.

Detail of traditional Kashmir tapestry on the wall at Zam Zam in Medford. Stephanie Schorow

Stephanie Schorow can be reached at sschorow@comcast.net.