Good morning. Maangchi, the YouTube cooking star whose real name is Emily Kim, was on vacation on the far eastern end of Long Island this summer, staying in a condominium just steps from the Montauk beach. One day I went out to visit her, and she taught me to make cheese buldak (above), fiery chicken beneath a blanket of mozzarella, a Korean answer to chicken Parm.

I wrote about the experience for The Times this week. I hope you’ll read the story right now, and I hope even more that you’ll make cheese buldak this weekend, because it’s so simple to prepare and so phenomenally delicious, with rice and kimchi, and if you’re lucky maybe some of Maangchi’s ox-bone soup on the side. (You can check out her new cookbook here.)

Maangchi generally adds rice cakes to her buldak, to add texture to the dish. But she didn’t have any with her in Montauk and the only rice cakes you’ll find at the Montauk IGA are the diet snacks made by Quaker Oats. So she improvised, making these amazing little potato dumplings called gamja-ongsimi: potato birds’ eggs, is the basic translation. We ought to be making these all the time.

It’s like a magic trick. You grate a potato, then wrap the grated flesh in cheesecloth and rinse it in a bowl, reserving the cloudy water. Let that water sit until the potato starch falls to the bottom, then pour off the water and combine the starch with the rinsed, grated potato and a little salt. Make dumplings the size of, yes, little birds’ eggs out of the potato-starch mixture and then simmer them tight in water and use at will. It is a kind of alchemy: a potato that now tastes like rice.