The mountain town of fewer than 4,000 people has six internet cafes, which are booming due to a security clampdown by the Indian government.

“The speed is very slow,” admitted Irfan, manager of one of the cafes where customers pay up to 3,000 rupees ($40) an hour to link their laptop to the snail’s-pace broadband.

“Scores of Kashmiris, mostly students and income tax professionals, come visiting every day,” said Irfan, who only gave one name.

In early August New Delhi made a sudden move to axe Kashmir’s semi-autonomous status, shutting down communications and sending tens of thousands of extra troops into what was already one of the world’s most militarized zones.