I have resided in the town of Banyoles in N. Catalonia since late September participating in a program which allows native English speakers to serve as ‘Teaching Assistants’ in public schools, helping to improve the standard of English spoken in class.

While this has largely proved to be a hugely rewarding and invaluable experience in terms of personal development, my attention has been engaged on multiple occasions by the rapidly evolving story of the struggle for Catalan independence, the significance and maturity of which I did not fully realise before my coming here.

The family I am staying with (alongside pretty much every other person I have had the pleasure of meeting) can certainly be described as expressing an infectious enthusiasm for the independence cause, devoting a great part of their energy in recent years towards the advancement of the idea and the ultimate ambition of an independent Catalan state. I remain fascinated and intrigued by their passion and have endeavored to further understand the dynamics at play, constantly drifting between the roles of neutral observer and cautious sympathizer, no doubt aided by identification with another small nation subordinate to a more well-known neighbor (Cymru/Wales).

The 21st December 2017 will potentially be regarded as a historic day in Catalonian history as pro-independence parties have achieved a slim majority in the officially endorsed regional elections, in what feels like a hilariously deserved backfire at the Spanish government owing to their excessively uncompromising and forceful stance in recent months. Indeed, the ball is firmly in Madrid’s court but for now they will surely wait to see who forms a working coalition (an uncertain matter given the fresh strength of Ciudadanos and the plethora of parties vying for power) and who assumes the presidency. Undoubtedly, this event has given the independence movement assured legitimacy which, if not leading to independence immediately, has surely proved to all the significant clamor which now exists for an independent Catalonia, a clamor which cannot be dismissed as unrepresentative or fringe by those in power. Disturbingly, the EU is maintaining its decidedly ambivalent position, yet again painting the crisis as an ‘internal affair’, willingly ignorant of the demands for fundamental human rights underlying many Catalans’ frustrations (note the similarity to Europe’s non-interference ideology in the Spanish Civil War).

As a tribute to the wonderful people I have met so far and to immortalize my sentiment as it occurred to me I compile below parts of my diary entries pertaining to the turbulent politics of these times and the people affected:

24/09/17 — Spent a very interesting time at a small rally in support of Catalan independence in Banyoles. Included music, traditional dancing and human castle building — apparently a tradition from S. Catalonia. I was kindly pictured during the performance by Carles. It is inspiring to see the community so involved in local politics and significant issues with an admirable passion.

01/10/17 — Today I feel as though I have witnessed a historic day as Catalans turned out in droves to express the feelings regarding independence. Large sections of Banyoles confined themselves to the polling station and surrounding area seemingly as a statement of intent — serving food and establishing a palpable sense of community. There was much fear and suspicion that the Guardia Civil (GC) would arrive to forcefully disrupt proceedings but thankfully this never transpired. However, in other locales the police behaved in quite lamentable fashion, using their power to beat defenceless and peaceful people merely wishing to partake in the right to freedom of assembly — 465 are confirmed injured (EDIT: Later rose to 1k+). I suspect these disgraceful actions will only serve to reinforce the already passionate sentiment of the people here as harsh repression continues to solidify divisions. Conversely the ‘Mossos’ (Mossos d’Esquadra — Catalan police) enjoyed a great reception at the polling station for their restraint. Tomorrow I will start an ordinary school day, but know that I am involved in the extraordinary birth of a nation!

30/09/17 — I passed through Barcelona’s Placa Sant Jaume to find tension abundant. On some streets Spanish nationalists, few in number, paraded their flags while security officials blockaded the entrances.

01/10/17 — Carles and Montse of my host family joyfully displaying their polling cards.

02/10/17 — It was my first day at school today and one could sense an uneasy mood prevailing over all who attended. Many of the teachers are visibly outraged at how quickly the situation has deteriorated and to voice this sentiment will participate in a general strike tomorrow. Such was the volatile atmosphere that one child with the audacity to shout ‘Viva Espana’ was assaulted — this added fresh significance later to the school statement was read in a specially convened assembly expressing indignation at the violation of freedoms and urging all to respect legitimate differences of opinion.

Regarding the developments at large I am disgusted at the refusal of the central government of Rajoy/PP (Popular Party, conservative) to recognise the grave error of their repression which, even if technically justified for the purpose of upholding the law/constitution, was surely unnecessary, insensitive and utterly disproportionate. Respect and humility has been abandoned in the turmoil.

P.S. I feel that a federal system could be viable yet given Spain’s actions in recent years it seems many have dismissed the concept.

03/10/17 — Decided to participate in a march (EDIT: Banyoles to Girona, 20km) today with Rachel in protest at the dreadful actions of the Spanish state and their response to the ‘illegal’ referendum. There were gloriously jubilant scenes throughout as everyone we encountered either clapped in raptures to encourage us or gave their horn a good honking! It was especially heartening to see so much adoration for those continuing to run essential services in Girona (hospitals/trains) and the love felt in return — likewise for the practically deified Mossos.

We met many people intrigued by the Welsh flag that flew from my right side, the most able to converse being an Englishman from Manchester called Joe. Apparently he has lived in Banyoles for the last 14 years after becoming bored of life in the UK. Once we arrived in Girona (and having been thoroughly refreshed by the hosepipes of nearby residents) we were surrounded by a crowd that seemed to be growing exponentially and chanting with ever greater conviction. It was impossible not to be moved by the unfettered passion of the Catalans present, constantly interacting as they were with tower block residents, photo journalists (one very much took a shining to the role of crowd conductor!) and each other. Despite the anthems, giant flag unfurling and wonderfully defiant spirit I was relieved when the gathering (perhaps 60k) dissipated, for my injured leg could tolerate no longer. However, I shall never forget this special day for as long as I shall live.

NOTE: It was amusing to see some Spanish police vans in Girona rapidly deterred by the intense booing/hissing of the crowd — I hope the state feels remorseful, it has lost all legitimacy.

03/10/17 — ‘Si si si Banyoles es aqui!’

03/10/17 — The world’s first instance of a Cambro-Catalan flag combination.

05/10/17 — Ended the day by watching Catalan satirical sketch show Polonia which was very amusing. All the political characters you’d expect were represented (Puigdemont, Junqueras, Rajoy, the king) — even an undead Franco appeared eulogising on the effective reincarnation of fascist repression in recent days! The show demonstrates how many feel that the transition to democracy is incomplete. Will not forget a scene where hyper macho nationalist police raided a home in search of President Puigdemont only to destroy every object in sight.

03/10/17 — The giant flag I referred to. It was much anticipated and did not disappoint, being 4 floors in length!

11/10/17 — The political situation has become rather ominous. Last night Puigdemont suspended a formal independence declaration in favour of entering negotiations — though it appears the declaration will occur regardless of what is discussed. In my view this is a foolish decision as the Generalitat (regional parliament) does not really have a mandate to insist on full secession (less than 50% pop. voted), predictably, PP is now exposing this fault in the discourse with relish. That said, Puigdemont is absolutely justified in imploring Spanish authorities to understand their contribution to the worsening of the relationship in recent years (flagrant disregard for grievances, culture/language — Catalan speaking PP members even choose to speak Spanish in debate!) as well as highlighting the fact that Catalan independence supporters should not be regarded as criminals and bandits not deserving of respect or reception.

Companies continue to threaten movement of HQ's to Madrid and EU has made it clear that Catalonia would, effectively, become a pariah state with no agreed regulations governing trade. Incredibly this sounds remarkably like the ‘no deal’ scenario now, shamefully, being pushed for by hardline Tory eurosceptics in Britain.

22/10/17 — The political climate has deteriorated to a new intensity of crisis. Rajoy has decide to implement Article 155 so as to totally abolish Catalan autonomy in response to continued Catalan intransigence; which was really just a manifestation of reasonable demands for negotiation courtesy of Puigdemont.

There are rumours that the closure of TV3 (EDIT: Catalan news channel) + Catalunya Radio could be realised within A155 activation. It is baffling how the gov. fails to comprehend how self-harming their repressive mindset is becoming — it rather resembles the attitude of a bully who maintains that everyone adores him his/her’s childish mind games. Indeed, immediately after Rajoy’s announcement, passions were inflamed so much that a massive demonstration had amassed in Barcelona for the peaceful defence of Catalan institutions and against the imprisonment of two prominent civic leaders (Jordi Sanchez/Cuixart) who face charges of sedition. This represents yet more alienation among Catalans precipitated by counter-productive gov. actions.

To add insult to injury, I saw a clip from today’s Marr Show in which Sp. Foreign Minister accused the record of police brutality on 1st Oct. of being ‘fake news’. History will condemn this man and his ridiculously Orwellian Trump-speak! You have every right to disagree with independence but don’t expect to be taken seriously after brutalising voters, arresting leaders and shutting down institutions after refusing to argue your case around the negotiating table.

27/10/17 — Today Catalonia courageously declared independence! I feel quite conflicted as to how prudent an action this may be. I observe that through their persistent stubbornness both the Catalan gov. (questionable mandate) and the Spanish authorities (refusing justified offers of mediation) have contributed to the intensification of a crisis that is desperate for a restrained, considered and agreed solution. Spain obviously wishes that the desires of a good portion of Catalans simply evaporate, but it is clear these divisions may be permanent, whether recognised in cessation or not, unless some agreement can be achieved it looks as though Catalonia risks becoming a pariah in an ignorant Europe.

That said it was impossible not to be moved by the emotional scenes broadcast on TV3 today as the Generalitat voted on the independence declaration. Most of the opposition (PP, Cs, PSOE) had walked out intending to communicate abstention through literal absence. Unfazed, the remaining members conducted a secret ballot after which 70 ‘yes’ votes, 10 ‘no’ votes and 2 blanks were counted.

I was at Antonia’s during the pre-vote discussion and it was visible to all how emotional she was feeling on this historic day — as though she had waited patiently her entire life for this moment. Once the impromptu singing of Els Segadors began in the chamber I too succumbed to the internal swells of sentiment — each goosebump on my neck reminding me of the beauty of dignified defiance. This mood continued uninterrupted as Puigdemont made a post-vote speech which was responded by a packed Generalitat raising their staffs to cries of ‘Llibertat!’ and another enthusiastic round for the anthem. As celebratory fireworks flew outside one could only think of how extraordinary a process it has been for me to witness. But I dare say that the struggle has only just begun.

02/11/17 — In the wake of declaring independence Puigdemont and a few advisers have fled to Belgium, ostensibly to bring attention to the persecution of the Sp. gov., in reality likely to avoid detention in prison. Today 8 ministers of the now defunct government appeared before court on charges of sedition and have been detained on suspicion of guilt. This was nothing more than an intimidating sham show trial, essentially the gov. flexing its muscle through the judiciary, which many believe is rarely impartial and profoundly corrupt.

Through blind adherence to the sanctified constitution Rajoy continues to plunge the nation into seriously dire straits, ignorant as he seemingly is of this archaic and fundamentally anti-democratic constitution’s failures in legitimacy. As an MP identified earlier, what defines the validity of the law when at least a significant minority of subject people express their resounding rejection of it — centralist tendencies are sustaining a civic paradox which is not being met with negotiation or reasonable settlement. Instead the answer is imprisonment and repression in the spirit of 1st Oct: imprisonment of Jordi’s, firing of Trapero and now the dissolution of a democratically mandated regional government. It really is beyond farcical, amongst those ordinary citizens of Europe, I feel Puigdemont increasingly has the moral advantage.

13/11/17 — (Wednesday) Experienced the hilarity of overrunning Girona’s unfinished high speed railway station alongside hundreds of protesters.

13/11/17 — The humour of spontaneity.

*Started day at Montjuic Castle, whose museum communicated the often inharmonious relationship between Spain/Catalonia and the disdain for Catalan identity historically harboured by Sp. elites. History is repeating with aplomb.

On Saturday we traveled to Barcelona to partake in a demonstration which seems to have attracted a substantial number of Catalonia’s population. Indeed, reports suggest that perhaps over 1 million attended this event in an emphatic display of belief against the continued existence of political prisoners (now including Generalitat President Carme Forcadell). I sincerely believe I may never witness such a gargantuan congregation ever again. Such was the fervor generated by the concentration of people that one felt a touching sense of community amongst the raucous masses. Moments of levity included spotting a man atop a building vigorously waving his Irish flag ( I regret not bringing my Welsh one) and the repeated jeers/gestures whenever the police helicopter hovered ominously above us.

After waiting for what seemed like 2 hours the procession associated chanting started in earnest — I recall seeing a few English placards e.g. ‘Spain Shame of Europe’, ‘Stop the Spanish Dictatorship’, ‘No to 155’ and one giant banner written in German including ‘Freiheit fur Puigdemont’. As the march swelled further it became impossible to continue moving along the, admittedly very wide, road; so we took the opportunity to the bypass the central block thereby reaching the area where a stage for speeches had been established. One horrendously slow rendition of the anthem later and my groin injury meant I was mightily relieved to depart. All in all a very memorable day.

Rajoy has called elections for 21st Dec. that will obviously constitute a referendum on independence that should settle things somewhat. In the meantime tensions in the parties are evident. Podemos has narrowly voted to terminate its coalition with PSC in Barcelona.

Nov. 2017 — The million person march. Or the million phone march?

Nov. 2017 — The yellow ribbon has become a symbol of the demand to free those arrested as political prisoners (see the placard far left), it seems now they are being used as hostages preventing and hindering the post-election government negotiations. How Spain feels no shame I cannot fathom!

08/12/17 — Today is my last day home alone as Carles, Montse, Emma and company will be returning later from their admirably principled journey to Brussels in support of the Catalan process. Carles has informed me that a Welsh representative addressed the gathering of 45,000 Catalans yesterday to express solidarity; some research found out that the woman responsible was Jill Evans, the Plaid Cymru (EDIT: a significant party in Wales that advocates for Welsh independence) MEP for Wales. Watching her short speech online I wondered if she might now hold the record for largest crowd addressed by a Welsh politician! (David Lloyd George anyone?) She affirmed her belief in the right of Catalans to self-determination under international law, that voting is not some shameful crime (rather an essential tenet of civilisation), that a peaceful and determined movement cannot be hindered by ignorance and brutality, that EU failure to understand dynamics at play constitutes a serious erosion of legitimacy.

I was elated to discover that the Welsh Assembly has passed a resolution sympathetic to the Catalan plight — a surprise given Labour’s ambivalence. I suppose this shows the clarity of morality.

THE END… For now. I hope you have enjoyed this tirade against those who think yellow is an offensive colour and that teachers are dangerous dissidents undeserving of free speech! Seriously well done to anyone who has read the whole thing, take this imaginary medal as a token of my gratitude!