You'll want to get started on the helmet at this point as plaster takes a while to dry.

To create the shape of the top of my helmet, I used plastic wrap to cover a helmet purchased at a party supply store and covered it in two layers of strips of plaster casting. If you don't have a pre-made helmet to cast over, you can plaster-wrap the top of your head, including your ears and the back of your head. You will want to build it up, keeping it smooth and thick so the helmet has room to slide on your head. After I allowed my plaster to dry, I pulled the plaster off and used a sideways balloon to fill in the eyes and face. The area towards the chin should come out straight - probably more straight than mine did. You'll need to use Samus photos as a reference. I noticed the slants at the sides of my eyes weren't perfect, so I fixed it up a bit with layers of foam and glue. After you are done the main shape, you want to cover it in layers of plaster until it becomes smooth. You want to create a really smooth surface, especially if you choose to paint it (which i highly recommend and is easier). After the plaster dries (takes at least 24 hours to fully dry), you will want to sand it to take out any bumps.

Once it is dry and you decide you want to cover it in fabric comes the hard part. I honestly don't know how I managed to pull it off, but this is what I did. First, I laid out my fabric and made sure I could cover the entire helmet in one go, starting at the front. There is only one seam seen in the helmet, and that is in the middle line at the top. The fabric wraps centered in the front and ends at the back. I edged the bottom of the chin with glue and secured my first bit of fabric. I continued gluing the fabric around the face of the helmet until it was all secured. Next, you'll have to pin the fabric at the back firmly. You can glue the front edge over the inner part and secure it. I trimmed excess fabric off to make it easier to work. I drew a line down the middle of the helmet. I folded back the fabric to make a clean edge and pulled it towards the center line on both sides. It needed to fit tightly. I didn't glue all the way up the eye piece of the face to allow room to work. You don't want any wrinkle lines, so you have to shape the fabric carefully. This took me many hours as it was meticulous to shape the fabric. I did a small hidden stitch to bring together the sides of fabric, and the material had to be pulled tightly. You want to trim extra fabric so it doesn't show through and make it bumpy.

Once it is sewn and smooth, you can glue the fabric to the inside of the helmet. You might need to work the fabric again to make it smooth. You might end up with a few small wrinkles. Again, painting it is much easier. You can use my images to work out the lines you need to draw. Use a pen to make dots to where your lines need to go before you use your sharpie marker. Images of Samus and her helmets online are useful. I decided to line the face of the mask in black also to make it look sharper.

I included a pattern for the ear pieces. You can cover the piece in fabric as usual, or paint it. Use the same idea for the jetpack shapes to make the tubing hookups, but smaller. I created fake tubing out of silver fabric and felt pieces, which was kind of tricky. I recommend getting tubing from a hardware store. Sometimes dollar stores sell that stuff also to connect bunches of wires.

For the silver mouth part, I cut a piece out of foam to the shape of the section you would see and added 1cm to the sides. I cut .5cm sections out of them, put double-sided tape on them, and wrapped them in fabric. I left loose edges on each piece (kind of like if you put your finger in the center of a tissue and lifted up the sides). Each piece had 1cm of extra fabric. I put the top piece down, then the next piece below, until they were all in order. I pushed them tightly together and added double-sided tape to the outer edges that wouldn't be seen, then flipped it over and added double-sided tape all over the back of that. I removed the seal on the front side of the tape and glued it to the back of the mouth piece of the helmet. I lined the entire helmet in felt by cutting strips of it and laying it in (removing the seal of the tape on the back of the mouth piece in the process). Cut your translucent plastic to fit so there is about 1cm of edge to glue down. Add extra felt around it to keep the edges clean.

I purchased a light from the dollar store in my area that could change colours with various hits of the button. It had a wand attached to it, so I broke it off and created a felt cover for it. I added velcro to the cover and the inside of my helmet to keep it in. If you can't find proper LEDs, a system that can hold in a green glowstick or glow bracelet would work well too (you just need a way to change them out once they wear out).