On a wet Friday evening on the south side of Dublin, near the Portobello neighborhood’s busy and unfashionable Leonard’s Corner, eight lanes of traffic crisscrossed near a halal grocer, takeout shops, the fluorescent tube lighting at Washers Laundry, and the year-old modern Irish restaurant Bastible.

Inside the restaurant, three sure-footed chefs led by Barry FitzGerald, who is also an owner, worked in an open kitchen, sending out adventurous dishes that involved behind-the-scenes prep work, including house-pickling, curing and fermenting. Thin slivers of zingy, house-pickled kohlrabi were wrapped around sweet Kilkeel crab. “Beef dripping toasts” that had the crispness of a wafer and the rich unctuousness of bone marrow accompanied a venison tartare topped with shavings of cured egg yolk.

Portobello, an ever-evolving neighborhood, has been called Little Jerusalem for its once-vibrant Jewish community.