Tampique de carne asada served over cheese enchiladas is served at Carmelita’s Kitchen, named after the owner’s grandma, in Rancho Santa Margarita on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Tampique de carne asada served over cheese enchiladas is served at Carmelita’s Kitchen, named after the owner’s grandma, in Rancho Santa Margarita on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)

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Carnitas with rice and beans is topped with pico de gallo at Carmelita’s Kitchen located in Rancho Santa Margarita’s Mercado Del Lago on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Carnitas with rice and beans is topped with pico de gallo at Carmelita’s Kitchen located in Rancho Santa Margarita’s Mercado Del Lago on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Carmelita’s Kitchen has an open, airy entrance with mosiac tile accents. The Mexican restaurant overlooks a man-made lake in Rancho Santa Margarita on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)



Carmelita’s Kitchen overlooks a man-made lake in Rancho Santa Margarita on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Carmelita’s Kitchen has a lake view at the Rancho Santa Margarita Mercado Del Lago strip mall on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Strawberry, cucumber and pineapple margaritas are offered at Carmelita’s Kitchen located in Rancho Santa Margarita on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Sonora Style Enchilada with layers of corn tortillas, a tomato onion cilantro broth and chicken was created in 1923 by Rosa Borquez whose husband Alejandro told his young bride that her cooking is so good they should open a restaurant a year earlier. Her picture hangs larger than life in El Cholo’s dining room in Corona del Mar on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Sonora Style Enchilada plate with layers of corn tortillas, a tomato onion cilantro broth and chicken is flanked by a festive green and red sauce at Corona del Mar’s El Cholo on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)



Sonora Style Enchilada plate with layers of corn tortillas, a tomato onion cilantro broth and chicken is flanked by a festive green and red sauce at Corona del Mar’s El Cholo on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Corona del Mar’s El Cholo was proudly founded in 1923 as seen on the brick wall bathed in warm light on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)

A Taste of History features five Mexican classics at Corona del Mar’s El Cholo on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)

A Taste of History features five Mexican classics at Corona del Mar’s El Cholo on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Family history lines the multi-generational photo display of Corona del Mar’s El Cholo on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)



Corona del Mar’s El Cholo offers alfresco dining beyond the banana leaves on Monday, July 17. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Here’s something I think we can all agree on: Orange County has better Mexican food than anywhere else in California. And I firmly believe we have in Taco Maria the single best Mexican restaurant in the United States, and the chef who tilts the scales heavily in our favor. But we also have some of the best old-fashioned, family-operated California-style Mexican restaurants in the state.

I debated whether it is even possible to consider Taco Maria and El Cholo in the same story about Mexican food. The chasm between these two restaurants is obviously vast. Not just the cooking but also the enjoyment of a wood-fired steak at Taco Maria involves a completely different mindset than what goes into a sloppy, cheesy combo plate at the historic El Cholo chain.

Does it make any sense to talk about the oak-grilled chicken at Solita in the same breath as the pork tamale at La Siesta? Those two restaurants couldn’t be any more different from each other than Taco Maria and El Cholo.

The pork pibil at Anepalco is clearly different from the pork pibil at Gabbi’s. Is one more right than the other?

Do the enfrijoladas at Potzol den Cano belong in a different category than the enchiladas at El Farolito just because they’re not quite the same thing? Are TexMex fajitas any less Mexican or any less important than Oaxacan tasajo? That depends on who’s cooking it, I suppose.

Each of these things, at their core, is an authentic representation of Mexican culture at a different time and place. You might personally find the cooking of, say, Oaxaca or Morelia more satisfying than Cal Mex or Tex Mex, or vice versa. But that does not make one of these restaurants any less genuine than the others. Each is still indisputably Mexican.

And Mexican cuisine in all its forms is the quintessential undercurrent of food culture in California. I haven’t done the math, but I’m guessing we have more Mexican restaurants in Orange County than any other type of cuisine. That’s why, for now, this list focuses strictly on full-service restaurants.

Obviously, this leaves out a lot of favorites, like Casa Sanchez in Garden Grove or Roman’s in Costa Mesa. And I’m not sure any of the kitchens on this list can make a better taco than Tacos y Birria or Tito’s La Especial, both in Santa Ana. This is not a snub of the massive tortas at El Coyotito in San Juan Capistrano or the gut-warming pozole at Lindo Michoacan in Anaheim. All of those places are unquestionably good, but they are strictly counter-service. There’s nothing wrong with that. That is merely a different list for another day.

Today, we’re talking about full-service Mexican restaurants, and I think these are the 20 best in Orange County.

1. Taco María

Chef Carlos Salgado keeps it intimate at Taco María, a restaurant that isn’t actually a taqueria but rather an exquisite tribute to all the Marías in his family tree and the recipes from their kitchens. The indoor dining room and chef’s counter accommodate only about a dozen diners at a time, with roughly 20 more squeezed onto the covered patio. Those Salgado family recipes aren’t replicated here, but they are used as the foundation for the chef’s deep exploration into his own relationship with the food of his heritage. His reinvention of Mexican cuisine is one of the most important things to happen in California’s restaurant scene in generations. There is simply no one else doing what Salgado does with tortillas and beans, or for that matter with wood-fired arrachera or tongue-searing scallop aguachile. Chorizo, mole, carnitas, birria… the menu might sound familiar, but the flavors and presentations will have you second-guessing everything you thought you already knew about Mexican food. Must eat: smoked sturgeon taco. Must drink: Michelada. 3313 Hyland Ave., Costa Mesa, 714-538-8444, tacomaria.com

2. Solita

Chef Deborah Schneider channels Baja luxury with fantastic oak-grilled chicken, massive goblets of ceviche and perfect carnitas served in a festive indoor/outdoor atmosphere. Whether made with habaneros or arbol chilies, the salsas have kick and backbone. Not only is the bar stocked with the finest tequilas available, but the bartenders know exactly what to do with them. Must eat: wood-fired chicken. Must drink: Sangrita. 7631 Edinger Avenue, Huntington Beach, 714-894-2792, solitatacos.com

3. Anepalco

Chef Daniel Godinez recently revamped his restaurant inside the ALO Hotel in Orange — not merely the menu (which now looks more like that of his other Anepalco on Main) but the entire atmosphere — reupholstering the chairs, refinishing the tables, rearranging the chandeliers and dividing the dining room into intimate vignettes with a purposefully grittier aesthetic than before. It was exactly what this place needed. The kitchen artfully bridges the divide between Mexico City’s swanky Polanco neighborhood and the barrios of Southern California. The barbacoa short rib tacos are sublime. The chilaquiles, justifiably legendary. Must eat: pork pibil enchiladas. Must drink: El Diablito (tamarind, ancho, mescal). 3737 W. Chapman Ave., Orange, 714-456-9642, anepalco.com

4. Javier’s

Although there are multiple locations of the Sosa family’s restaurant stretching from Cabo to Las Vegas, I believe the branch at Crystal Cove is easily their best. The interior design, which must have cost millions, is stunning — timeless and quintessentially Mexican. The carnitas are exquisite, a mound of tender, fat-laden meat topped with a single, hulking pork rib. Crab enchiladas are as luxurious as they are soulful. The cheese enchilada, the crispy beef taco, shrimp quesadilla, octopus ceviche, Acapulco-style shrimp cocktail, the margaritas… all excellent. Must eat: carnitas. Must drink: Cadillac. 7832 E. Pacific Coast Highway, Newport Coast, 949-494-1239, javiers-cantina.com

5. Sol Cocina

Before there was Solita, there was Sol, chef Deborah Schneider’s flagship restaurant overlooking Newport Harbor. No one serves better beach-style ceviche than Sol’s big goblet of “hot and raw” served with housemade potato chips. Meanwhile, the arrachera comes from Wagyu pedigree, and the fantastic street tacos are more “street” than you might expect. At brunch, focus on the Mexican-style French toast. Must eat: Duck confit tacos. Must drink: watermelon Margarita. 251 E. Coast Highway, Newport Beach, 949-675-9800, solcocina.com

6. El Farolito

When it comes to old-fashioned Cal-Mex combination plates with ground-beef tacos, cheese enchiladas and refried beans, the whole of which is smothered in yellow cheese and heated under the broiler until the sauce around the edge of the plate turns into lace, El Farolito is the reigning king. I also love their steak tampiqueño heaped with grilled jalapeños and caramelized onions. And if the carne asada nachos don’t make you happy, then you must be incapable of happiness. Must eat: Papa’s combo. Must drink: frozen Margarita. 201 S. Bradford Ave., Placentia, 714-993-7880, elfarolitomex.com

7. El Cholo

The Corona del Mar branch of this O.C.-based Mexican chain consistently out-cooks its sibling rivals. The kitchen gives you a dozen different ways to order an enchilada, and no matter which rendition you choose, you can’t go wrong. My favorite is Sonora style, stacked rather than rolled, topped with a fried egg. The green corn tamales, temporarily in season right now, are unrivaled. Many of the recipes date to the original El Cholo in 1923. Must eat: enchiladas. Must drink: piña colada. 3520 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar, 949-777-6137, elcholo.com

8. La Choza

Just inside the entrance, you’ll notice a small makeshift kitchen the size of a broom closet where a woman stands and makes fresh tortillas all day. As soon as she sees you walk through the front door, she counts how many people are in your party and immediately starts making your tortillas, which will arrive momentarily still steaming, with a pat of softened butter to spread over the top. You won’t find a better crispy taco or a better deal on a Cadillac margarita than here. Must eat: chile colorado. Must drink: frozen Cadillac. 7402 Edinger Ave., Huntington Beach, 714-842-7888, lachozahb.com

9. Carmelita’s Kitchen

Ask for a table on the patio overlooking Rancho Santa Margarita Lake. Order a margarita. Take your time and soak it in. Now, if you were ever inclined to question the cultural significance of a salad served in a fried tortilla shell, this place will make you a believer. The chimachangas and chile rellenos are great, too. Must eat: skirt steak with enchiladas. Must drink: strawberry-jalapeno margarita. 31441 Santa Margarita Parkway, Rancho Santa Margarita, 949-709-7600, carmelitaskitchen.com

10. El Matador

Homesick Texans take comfort in El Matador’s silky-smooth TexMex-style queso and stewed pinto beans. The combination plates are excellent, especially when they involve green enchiladas. This is also a great place for fajitas. Must eat: Combo plates. Must drink: Partida añejo. 1768 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa, 949-645-0324, elmatadorcostamesa.com

11. El Mestizo

Formerly known as Casa Oaxaca, this family-run cafe specializes in the cooking of Oaxaca, which translates to exemplary moles, fiery chipotle salsa and molcajetes overflowing with grilled peppers and tasajo (thinly shaved beef). The chilaquiles are made with a bright, spicy tomatillo salsa and served with soulful housemade chorizo that is more black than red. The flour tortillas are in a league of their own. Must eat: chilaquiles. Must drink: cucumber agua fresca. 3317 W. 1st St., Santa Ana, 714-554-0905, casaoaxacarestaurant.com

12. La Siesta

This is another combo-plate heaven. The crispy taco shells at La Siesta are the perfect axis of crunchy, chewy and greasy. The red chile pork tamales are made in-house, and they are superb. Good wet burritos, too. The skinny margaritas are great, but whenever I look around the room, I see a lot of folks drinking tequila shots instead. Must eat: pork tamale. Must drink: skinny Margarita. 920 N. El Camino Real, San Clemente, 949-498-3094, lasiestasanclemente.com

13. Gabbi’s Mexican Kitchen

Everything that comes out of chef Gabbi Patrick’s kitchen feels fresh and innovative, even when the dishes are based on traditions that predate the revolution. Gabbi’s cochinita pibil is a fun, modern, beautiful riff on the classic Yucatan-style slow-roasted pork. Puebla-style tacos are stuffed with carne asada, bacon and linguesa. The tortillas are made from scratch. Be careful: The habanero salsa is spicy enough to melt your brain. Ask your waiter about the chile en nogada, which is sometimes available off-menu. Must eat: cochinita pibil. Must drink: sangria. 141 S. Glassell St., Orange, 714-633-3038, gabbipatrick.com

14. Sol Agave

Chef Manny Velasco rose through the kitchen ranks of Carmelita’s and Amorelia before branching out on his own with a food truck, which he eventually parlayed into this snazzy brick-n-mortar. Start with the jalapeño cream soup or the queso with chorizo. But keep in mind that you are just warming yourself up for the pork carnitas and the chile colorado beef short rib. The street tacos are great, too. Must eat: chile colorado. Must drink: tableside tequila Manhattan. 31111 Rancho Viejo, San Juan Capistrano, 949-218-1158, solagavesjc.com

15. Amorelia

The kitchen draws inspiration from the Mexican town of Morelia. The enchiladas are great. So is the shrimp ceviche. But the best thing here is the pork al pastor, which will probably be different than what you expect. It’s more like pulled pork barbecue, shredded by hand and drenched in Mexican barbecue sauce. The very decadent pollo purepecha is a chicken breast stuffed with huitlacoche, spinach and queso fresco, smothered with creamed corn. Ask the waiter about their secret arbol chile salsa, which they make from dried chilies and olive oil. Must eat: Pork al pastor. Must drink: Pineapple mojito. 2200 Harbor Blvd., Costa Mesa, 949-646-1422, amorelia.com

16. Sabroso! Mexican Grill

Expect a wait. This place is always packed. The kitchen’s secret weapon is the chamorro de res, or thinly sliced beef shank slowly simmered in a guajillo chile sauce. The combo plates are good, too, as are the tacos al pastor, monster burritos and sizzling carne asada. They don’t serve tequila, but they do sell beer and they make one heck of a Michelada. Must order: chamorro. Must drink: Michelada. 13129 Harbor Blvd., Garden Grove, 714-537-7080, sabrosomexgrill.com

17. Casa Adelita #3

The menu is incomprehensibly vast (soups, burritos, tostadas, fajitas, tortas, tacos and a dozen different shrimp dishes), yet it appears that most diners end up ordering one of a handful of combination plates. Get one with a tamale. After La Siesta down south, this is the best pork tamale I’ve found at a full-service restaurant in O.C. It is so soft and supple with pork fat and red chile sauce, it practically melts in your mouth. This a great spot for old-school Mexican breakfasts, too. Must eat: huevos con chorizo. Must drink: blended strawberry margarita. 340 E. La Habra Blvd., La Habra, 562-694-2926

18. Urbana

The bartender makes incredible cocktails with mezcal. That’s probably the most important thing to know about this Mexican gastrobar inside the Anaheim Packing House. But don’t stop there. The food is very, very good as well. The trompo-style pork al pastor tacos are as good as anything from the streets of Mexico. You’ll also want to get the dorados, which are bite-sized crispy tacos made with potatoes and cotija cheese. Must eat: tacos al pastor. Must drink: Marca Negra mezcal. 440 S. Anaheim Blvd., Anaheim, 714-502-0255, urbanaanaheim.com

19. Potzol den Cano

The main idea here is pozole. They serve it “white,” which means it arrives at the table a blank translucent broth filled with hominy and a huge pile of shredded pork (or pig’s head and feet, if you prefer). It’s up to you to paint it red or green with the salsa of your choice before topping it with shredded lettuce, sliced radishes, chopped onion and limes, plus a generous handful of dried oregano and sneeze-inducing chile powder. It would be easy to overlook the enfrijoladas, but don’t. They are sultry and seductive with their black bean sauce and crumbled chorizo. Must order: pozole. Must drink: melon agua fresca. 1003 S. Bristol St., Santa Ana, 714-664-0558, potzoldencano.com

20. Puesto

Puesto got its start as a taco and margarita stand in La Jolla. The kitchen specializes in tacos that are layered with fried cheese and really great cocktails. The cheesy tacos are good, but what’s even better are the cochinita pibil tacos, one of the few made without cheese: a handmade blue-corn tortilla stuffed with delicious slow-roasted pork that’s been marinated in achiote and red chilies. Irresistible chicharrones are made in-house. And they transform horchata into an incredible milkshake. Must eat: filet mignon asada. Must drink: cardamom Cadillac. 8577 Irvine Center Drive, Irvine, 949-608-9990, eatpuesto.com

HALL OF FAME

Best classic Margaritas: Javier’s

Best mixology Margaritas: Puesto

Best mescal cocktail: Anepalco’s El Diablito

Best crispy taco: shredded beef at La Choza

Best salsa: Taco María’s salsa negra

Best TexMex queso: El Matador

Best choriqueso: Sol Agave

Best woodfire chicken: Solita

Best green corn tamale: El Cholo

Best pork tamale: La Siesta

Best pozole: Potzol den CanoBest Michelada: Taco Maria

Best combo plate: Papa’s combo at El Farolito

Best flour tortillas: El Mestizo

Best corn tortillas: Taco Maria