We are very excited to announce that Hazel Findlay has made the first ascent of the coveted stemming corner to the left of North Star (5.13b) accessed via Third Peak of the Stawamus Chief.



Photo courtesy of Jonny Baker

The route, now named ‘Tainted Love aka Norther Soul (5.13+) requires some very very desperate stemming. Congratulations Hazel!!

Update: Speaking to Hazel and Neil Dyer, the proposed grade is 5.13d R. Sounds spicy! To fill in a little history on the route, Squamish-local Neil Dyer originally top roped the route in 2015 but couldn’t find the headspace to lead the rig. According to Neil, leading the route is a real challenge with all the small gear and requires the climber to run it out to save energy and stick to the sequence. He reported that Hazel made a proper fight in the conditions it was sent and showed true tenacity in her head game. Neil reported it was one of the most difficult belays he had given and his legs were shaking at the end of it all.