After perusing the wildly eclectic menu at Clydz in New Brunswick, my first thought was, "What's with the python, the alligator, the kangaroo? Is this a restaurant or roll call at the Bronx Zoo?"

Actually, it's just an escalation of the game offerings, long a feature of the restaurant that has been in business for two decades.

"We've always had bison and venison and wild boar," explained the personable owner Mike Parla, a native of New Brunswick who now lives in Hunterdon County. He and and his former partner, Joe Clyde (the owner of the Sergeantsville Inn) got involved with game because "we wanted to have a little bit of something different. The thought was to have leaner meats."

Game filled the bill, but "but over the last 15 years, more exotic choices have become available," he noted. Clydz is all in on that front, although lion (from a culled group) and zebra are no longer being served.

Dip a tentative tongue into the unusual with the game tasting menu (market price, usually in the $44-$46 range), since it may include the relatively tame antelope loin, wild boar strip and venison, along with veggies, although choices rotate every few days.

The emboldened can move on to braised python ravioli whose scary quotient is defanged by a mushroom cream sauce ($15) -- it doesn't seem threatening that way -- or Andouille sausage made from gator, otherwise known as alligator in a blanket ($11). So it's not as if the snake is in a form that looks ready to strike, or the gator has its jaws bared on the plate. If you didn't know what you were eating, you probably wouldn't identify the protein as reptiles.

Kangaroo loin ($38/$26) is colorfully tempered by a poached egg, mole sauce, black garlic gnocchi and braised red cabbage. With all that going on, it doesn't jump out at you that you're eating a marsupial.

Grilled bison hanger steak and quail eggs featured at Clydz

You could call these items gimmicks, but there are plenty of other, less unusual choices on the menu that still offer sufficient interest.

Leek, fennel and mushroom risotto dresses up the nicely seared diver scallops in a brisk peppercorn nage ($31/$24).

For something that really doesn't rock the boat, try the straightforward organic chicken ($24) with a too-modest wild mushroom crust. The dish gets a lift from Parmesan spaetzle that is just cheesy enough. Want to be adventurous without going overboard? Deviled eggs topped with crispy duck confit ($8) offer textural contrast in enhancing an old favorite. Then there are the octopus tacos ($13) and roasted bone marrow ($15), which I too rarely see on a menu. Tender pulled short rib and tomato jam give this choice substance.

The bourbon-infused pecan pie ($8) was the best version of this dessert I've ever had. The cherry bitters whipped cream added to its appeal, and the hand that added the liquor was just heavy enough to impart character, so different from the overly sweet tone it too often takes on elsewhere. Other choices include the kahlua-infused brownie sundae ($9) with all kinds of add-ons, among them walnut brittle and Italian Luxardo cherries.

Chef Justin Quint, who previously cooked at the Grey Oaks Country Club in Naples, Fla., and for the Norwegian Cruise Lines, works in the kitchen with Orlando Ramos, trained under the restaurant's former head chef, John Durna. Longtime manager Cassandra Perjesy also contributes her thoughts to what's being served.

This is a venue with two identities. The cozy popular bar, which offers its own menu, has a speakeasy feel, with retro decor, fish tanks and a nifty little fireplace. But even if you've just dropped by for a drink, take a moment to glance away from your cocktail and look up to see the attractive restaurant that's laid out behind the bar scene.

Patrons enjoy their cocktails in the bar.

It's darkly romantic; so dark, in fact, that flashlights will be provided to those who have trouble seeing the menu, if their cellphones don't provide sufficient light.

Whichever option you choose, Clydz is fun, intriguing and just different enough to make you want to return--even if you're not game to try the game.

Clydz

55 Paterson St., New Brunswick. 732-846-6521. Clydz.com. Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Mondays-Thursdays, 5-11 p.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 7 p.m.-2 a.m. Sundays (bar menu only). Bar menu also available 11:30 a.m.-1:30 a.m.- Mondays-Fridays and 5 p.m.-1:30 a.m. Saturdays. 3 stars

Cody Kendall may be reached at CodyDine@aim.com. Follow Cody on Twitter@CodyDine. Find NJ.com/Entertainment on Facebook.