Protoboard V2

I decided to try out using Ponoko to see how it's like getting stuff cut from them. So I quickly threw together an updated version of my protoboard. Overall it worked but I rushed it to get the discount on my new account before it ran out. The results were great so I could fix my issues and get a new one if I wanted. But I'm also getting pretty set in my layout decisions. So I might be done prototyping soon... At least until I have some other new ideas to try.

One of the things I wanted to try out was an offset column layout like ErgoDox or Atreus. So I dropped some Zealios with my Devlin L keycaps from my Cherry MX Board 3.0 along with some SP G20s to fill in the gaps. Unfortunately, the cross beams on the bottom layer interfere with the switches. So I was limited on how much offset I could use. I think it's pretty close to ErgoDox. It didn't seem like it was much different then normal. Something to play with some more later.

I laid out the pieces how I wanted which is mostly just a grid layout. I then covered it with some masking tape to hold the pieces in place. Then cut out the switch holes. It worked pretty well and will be easy to pull apart if I want to switch things around.

It was a little time consuming but it's been working well.

Here's a layout I've been playing around with. Split ortholinear (Atomic) possibly with a numpad in the middle. I'm leaving the top row mostly empty as that's where I would put the Teensy controller. I also figured I'd try to even out the left/right hand by putting the function keys and stuff in a cluster on the left. Not sure on this yet but it's an idea to try out.

I moved all of my Matias Quiet Click switches from my previous Protoboard using the same layout I had there. I haven't taken the time to wire up and adjust my bread board in order to get the Function keys working. So for now, I just threw in my switch samples with Esc key cap set in case I want to remind myself what other switches feel like. I can't put the numpad in the middle right now as I would need longer wires. That would be a lot of work to rewire.

This version is much more slim than my first Protoboard which is nice. But the thin acrylic isn't quite enough to handle all the wires. The whole thing is a bit flimsy and flexes a lot when typing. It's not bad but not the solid thing I had with the wood "case" I had before.

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