Unrecognised and forgotten, carved stones detailing city’s history from as far back as far as the 7th century are being lost to the city’s relentless development

Bangalore, or Bengaluru as it is now called, is a fast-changing city. In only a couple of decades its unchecked growth has destroyed much of its heritage, including classic buildings such as the Victoria Hotel, Cash Pharmacy and Krumbiegel Hall. Numerous ancient trees have also been destroyed. But dotted around the multi-lane highways and mushrooming software parks are a unique reminder of the past.

These are inscription stones, dating as far back as the 7th century, and written in Kannada, the local language of Karnataka, the state of which Bengaluru is now capital. But the stones also carry Tamil and Telugu inscriptions, the local languages of neighbouring states. The stones are all made of granite, varying in size from 90x120cm (3x4ft) to 215x150cm (7x5ft). Some only bear inscriptions, others have carvings of kings, subjects, war scenes, horses and nymphs. Together, they form a detailed picture of the names and conquests of Bangalore’s past rulers – one king is described as the “champion of moustaches” – and fascinating snippets about ordinary daily life in Bangalore as far back as the 8th century.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Bengaluru is growing fast – and its heritage is at risk of being lost under successive waves of development. Photograph: Manor Photography/Alamy

But of 152 known stones – the last recorded number – many have been lost. Those that remain are often forgotten and sit unrecognised in car parks, near bus stops or jammed in between busy highways.

Now a race against time is on to document the stones, by photographing, mapping and tagging them with QR codes, using high-resolution 3D optical scans – and when all else fails removing them to safer locations.

“We estimate that nearly 120 stones have been lost to construction in the last 15 years,” says Udaya Kumar, who along with Vinay Kumar (no relation) started a community movement called the Inscription Stones of Bangalore to save these relics from being swallowed up by development.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Engineers Udaya Kumar and Vinay Kumar have started a community movement to save the stones from being lost to development. Photograph: PL Udaya Kumar

The two men, both engineers, started looking for the stones in mid-2017 guided by Epigraphia Carnatica, a set of books written by the British archaeologist and Kannada scholar Benjamin Rice, who lived in Bangalore in the 1880s.

Of the 152 stones documented by Rice, 32 have been found; the Kumars also tracked down another eight stones that Rice did not mention.

Several of the stones debunk accepted historical information about the city. For instance, Bangalore was long thought to be founded in 1537 by the ruler Kempegowda, whose name is given to many city institutions, including the airport.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest The stones are written in Kannada, but some also bear inscriptions in Tamil and Telugu, as well as carved images. Photograph: PL Udaya Kumar

A stone from the 9th century discovered discarded in a temple mentions the name of the city. Other ancient stones refer to neighbourhoods that still exist in modern Bangalore, under the same names. This suggests that the city is older than previously thought and that, contrary to the textbooks, Kempegowda – although he greatly expanded the city by building forts and temples – was likely not the founder.

Another tale attributes the name of the city to the 12th century ruler Veera Ballala II. The story on the stone says that, while hunting, the hungry king was treated to boiled beans by an old woman – or benda kalu in Kannada – and later named the city after the beans.

Other rulers are described in glorious detail, but there are also snippets about daily life: land grants, donations, religious customs, even solar eclipses. One stone describes how a man was killed trying to protect his precious cows from being stolen. He is taken to heaven by apsaras, or angels – although these figures could also be the spirits of his wives, who may have committed sati after his death (a practice where widows immolate themselves on their husband’s funeral pyre). “Clearly, cattle were as precious then as they are now,” says Udaya Kumar. Another describes how a Jain woman died after a prolonged period of fasting, a custom that is now rare, but still survives today.

The rescuers try to keep the stones in their original locations, as far as possible, removing them only if the stones are threatened. Often they are accused of trespassing, or locals think they are trying to find treasure. They are currently working on a shelter for a particularly important stone: it commemorates the first Bangalorean, dating from 750 CE, and is the oldest inscription to be found in Bangalore.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest The Kumars are working to document the stones suing photography, mapping and tagging them with QR codes or using high-resolution 3D optical scans. Photograph: PL Udaya Kumar

Kittaya, as he was called, died in a battle and is now the earliest known named resident. “it is the first evidence of reading and writing to be found in Bangalore,” says Udaya. “For us, it is the holy of holies. You can trace back all Bangalore’s development as a knowledge capital of the world to Kittaya. 1200 years ago he died protecting this city. He was our first citizen.”

To raise money the group is producing brass replicas of the stone for sale. Local community involvement is key: the group’s supporters come from varied backgrounds, ranging from the Yaduveer Krishnadatta Chamaraja Wadiyar, the erstwhile maharaja of Mysore, to local plumbers. “A rickshaw driver came to me and said he is going around Bangalore, visiting every stone,” says Udaya.

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An interactive Google page with the map of the stones has 53,000 fans, but it is harder to persuade people to see the stones in their original locations, particularly when it means braving traffic. “Bangalore is known for its education. But with education and wealth, people live in cocoons. They rarely want to see what came before them,” laments Udaya.

So, to drum up interest, the group gives talks in colleges, organise exhibitions in city museums and conduct tours. At a recent talk in a women’s college, where photos were shown of stones covered with garbage, a young girl stood up.

“There has been a stone near my house for years,” she said. “I did not know it was important and ignored it. But now I know why we need to keep it safe.”

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