The slippery sand from yesterday turns to dark smooth dirt. The straight prairie miles turn to twists and turns and we are on a racetrack, flying through the country all alone. We take the banked turns too fast, but its so hard to slow down. We see our first Cottonwoods and Sage bushes, finally feeling Westward.

Sometimes it feels like we’re on a different planet, the only humans around. But then an 18-wheeler flies past us on the back dirt road, showering us with dust. We pass fields of black cows, groups of them crowded under trees or soaking in ponds to stay cool. The social animal stares at us, with a curious look you’d give a stranger in your small town. Sometimes they will scatter away and I try to quiet the engine.

Rt 64 detours us in to Buffalo, OK. We fuel up and have lunch at Shorty’s Cafe, a recommendation from our host the night before, Teresa. I enjoy my caesar salad and Han exclaims it’s the best burger he’s ever had. We take a long lunch break after our 80 mile morning and sip too much coffee.

The afternoon took us to Beaver, OK where all the motels were again full but we wanted to camp anyway. A storm was brewing and the wind was whipping but we decided to brave the sand dunes at Beaver State Park anyway. The campground is a little oasis, set on a lake surrounded by Cottonwood trees. An unstable walking bridge is steps from our campsite and leads us into the beautiful sand dunes. Plush sand lays between shrubs and daisies, our feet sink in as the sun sets.

We rest on the lakeside and make dinner, planning our last day in Oklahoma.