China is not exactly known for its postcard-worthy beaches. Around Shanghai and many other urban centers, the water is often at toxic levels. I remember once going stand up paddle boarding (no I’m not sure why either) at a “lake” near Shanghai. I picked up the skill so fast just because I was so terrified of falling in the viscous, practically bubbling, water below me.

And perhaps it is not a big problem when with a quick flight you can be in the Philippines or Thailand with water so clear you cannot just see your toes, you can see your toenails.

But with the consistent plus 38 degree summers, sometimes a highly congested $20 a go one meter by one-meter pool in the city does not cut it. Us British, in particular, need a beach!

Well, thankfully there is Zhujiajian. The most average beach you probably have never heard of.

Zhujiajian is an island off the coast of Ningbo. Without traffic (we will come back to this later on) it is a four-hour drive from Shanghai. And I know what you are thinking. A beach. Four hours from Shanghai! Why have I not heard of it?

Well firstly, it is pretty average, even if we had a wonderful time trying to make sense of it.

The actual beaches, like most things in China, are heavily regulated and controlled. I have never gone through turnstiles to get to a beach before. But sure enough at the self-proclaimed ”International Leisure Island” (I can guarantee I was the most international thing on the island) is a ticket booth and barriers.

Despite their claims, I question the international nature of this particular attraction

I have never had to go through turnstile barriers to get to a beach before

Once you have paid your entrance fee you walk down the promenade and get to the beach. On the one hand, the beach was much emptier than I thought it would be, had swimmable water, and actual sand. Perhaps my expectations were too low.

We made it to an actual swimmable beach!

There was also weird wonderful stalls including a Xinjiang kebab place and a beach bar selling overpriced Coronas. As well as the first ever tent I had seen being used as beach shade.

Ingenius sun protection, or odd? You decide!

On the other hand, any attempts to swim outside a specially demarcated zone were greeted by an army of beach security. I would say “lifeguards”, but I question whether they could swim.

The other surprise attraction was the Zhoushan International Sculpture Festival. On first glance, this looks like a collection of impressive sand sculptures. Everything from the terracotta warriors to Casanova, to Lionel Messi was present.

They might not be made of sand, but they still made a good enough photo

In reality, though the sculptures are molded from a solid base with the sand attached by adhesive. The illusion would hold-ish if a fair few of them didn’t have their non-sand structures visible. But I still got to pose with a sand-based Messi so I’m not complaining too much.

There are multiple other spots to explore including nature walks and the delightfully named “Lovers Island”. Unfortunately, the storm meant on the second day most things were shut due to over cautious security.

One last tip. Go to the beach early and leave by 5pm. Most locals don’t like being out in the sun. Once the sun goes is when everyone wants to come down!

After the sun goes in the crowds come out

Logistics

The second reason you have not heard of Zhujiajian island is that it is a bitch for foreigners. Logistically it is quite challenging, to say the least. Even if you got a train to Ningbo you would need a private car or boat to get to the islands.

But most importantly, the island has banned foreigners from staying in any accommodation. Despite the vast swathes of empty hotels, the only hotel that would take us was a small guesthouse where we did it all under the radar. I.e. no passport taken like every other time I have stayed anywhere in China. So even if you get there, you will definitely need a Chinese speaking friend to help you find somewhere to sleep.

There are plenty of identical buildings to stay in. Laowai is just not allowed…

Zhujiajian is a weird one. On the one hand, it is a legitimate, pleasant beach that you can drive to from Shanghai. On the other hand, it is still a pain to get to and pretty average. While there was a novelty in a sand based Lionel Messi and Xinjiang beachside kebabs, I would probably stick with the Philippines!