GETTING THERE

There are no direct flights from the United States to Tehran. But you can get there through a number of European and Middle Eastern cities. Among the airlines that fly to Tehran are Lufthansa, Emirates and British Airways. A recent Web search found round-trip fares from New York in late February starting at around $1,050 on Air France.

Iranian authorities discourage independent travel by American citizens. The best way to obtain a visa is to book a guided tour with a tour operator like these two in Shiraz: Pars Tourist Agency (98-711-222-3163; www.key2persia.com) or Gashttour Travel and Tour Agency (98-711-230-1900; www.irangashttour.com). Reserve at least two to three months in advance to allow the outfitter time to obtain your visa.

Bring all the money you think you’ll need in dollars, which are widely accepted or can be exchanged for rials. Travelers checks are not accepted, banks and A.T.M.’s do not have access to accounts in the United States, and credit cards do not work.

WHERE TO STAY

In Esfahan, the Abbasi Hotel (Amadegah Avenue at Goldasteh Avenue; 98-311-222-6010; www.abbasihotel.com) was built in the shell of a Safavid-era caravansary. The rooms are modest, but the public areas are not, especially the grandiose central courtyard, which has a large reflecting pool flanked by arched bays. Doubles start at 1,287,000 rials, about $134 at 9,600 rials to $1.

While wandering through the alleys west of the Bozorg Bazaar, I stumbled upon the Isfahan Traditional Hotel (Hakim Street; 98-311-223-6677; www.isfahanhotel.com), where I would stay if I were to return. A dozen rooms surround a lovely and hidden courtyard. Doubles are 615,000 rials.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Whether you eat at a highway truck stop or at an expensive traditional restaurant, the culinary offerings in Iran are usually identical: lamb, chicken or mince kebabs (average meal about $5). I ate them at least once, and often twice, a day, so other options, like the quince and squash stew at the Bastani Restaurant (southeast corner of Imam Square; 98-311-220-0374) were welcome breaks.

At the north end of the square is the Qeysarieh Tea Shop. The service is indifferent at best, but I went several times to sit on the outdoor terrace, puff on a qalyan, and admire the second-story view over the entire square.