Burberry

A model at the Burberry spring/summer 2018 show at London fashion week. Photograph: Mary Turner/Reuters

It’s the show everyone is talking about, as chief creative officer, Christopher Bailey, bids farewell to the brand he has overseen for 17 years. The house has already revealed that its signature check will be reimagined in rainbow hues in support of the LGBTQ+ community and is expected to feature heavily (as it did last season). Other than that, the designer’s swansong for the heritage house remains under wraps, although if he continues his recent smash-hit trajectory, it might just be his best yet. One thing is certain, however, and it’s not that there will be a trench coat or two: it’s that it is going to be emotional.



Halpern

A model poses for ‘first look’ photos before a Halpern show at London fashion week autumn/winter 2017. Photograph: Leon Neal/Getty Images

Michael Halpern is set to turn on the sparkle this Saturday. A bit of background: this is the designer who put head-to-toe sequins back on the agenda (with model of the moment Adwoa Aboah, Amal Clooney and Lupita Nyong’o just some of the influential names who quickly signed on as unofficial ambassadors) and promptly picked up the emerging talent in womenswear accolade at the fashion awards last December. The future looks just as dazzling as his dresses – Donatella Versace has already tapped him to consult on her couture line. In other words, this is the golden ticket.

Fashion East



Models present creations by designer Matty Bovan during the Fashion East spring/summer 2017 show. Photograph: Niklas Halle'N/AFP/Getty Images

The independent designer initiative returns to showcase the work of three exciting emerging designers; Asai, Supriya Lele and Charlotte Knowles, and special guest Symonds Pearmain. Established by Lulu Kennedy in 2000, Fashion East works as an incubator that offers financial and mentoring support to designers in the early stages of starting their brand, usually facilitating two or three catwalk shows before each designer goes it alone. In the 18 years since it started, Kennedy has kickstarted the careers of Roksanda Ilincic, JW Anderson and Craig Green, making this slot on the schedule fertile hunting ground for the next big thing.

JW Anderson

Models on the catwalk for JW Anderson during London fashion week autumn/winter 2017. Photograph: Niklas Halle'N/AFP/Getty Images

In previous seasons, this is the one that American Vogue editor Anna Wintour is said to have flown in for to commence her presence at the London leg of shows and this month she’ll get more bang for her buck. Northern-Irish designer Jonathan Anderson has combined his menswear show – usually unveiled in January – with his womenswear show and both will be presented under one roof. Up there with the greats of his generation, Anderson has been recently tipped for vacant top design posts at Burberry and Louis Vuitton – all eyes on the front row to see if industry attendees give anything away about his next move.

Dilara Findikoglu

Models on the catwalk for Dilara Findikoglu at St Andrew’s Holborn, London. Photograph: Matt Crossick/PA

The wildcard to watch. Last season Turkish designer Findikoglu hit the headlines when she staged a catwalk show comprising occult imagery in a Catholic church and asked activist Saffiyah Khan – famed for confronting a member of the EDL in Birmingham last April – to model her spring/summer 2018 collection. Now that she’s officially on the schedule for the first time, she’ll be showing her provocative designs, which are steeped in historical references, from Ottoman embroidery to the wardrobe of Queen Elizabeth, to what is sure to be a bigger audience.