When the London-based chef and restaurateur Yotam Ottolenghi, who grew up in the Jewish west side of Jerusalem, crisscrossed his hometown to research a cookbook he was writing with his company’s head chef, Sami Tamimi, from the Arab east, he became a specialist in the city’s subtle culinary distinctions. From the spices preferred by Jews from Libya to the technique Palestinians perfected for boiling chickpeas, “Jerusalem: A Cookbook” contains recipes inspired by the many flavors of the city’s shops and restaurants in tucked-away corners. Jerusalem should not be missed, Mr. Ottolenghi said. “Especially,” he added, “if you’re interested in those layers of the history, the people, the religions, the tensions.”

Below are edited excerpts from a conversation with Mr. Ottolenghi about eating in Jerusalem.

Q. In your cookbook, you wax nostalgic about some favorite childhood dishes. What are they, and where do you go for them?

A. I have many clear memories of tables laden with meze: the warm hummus with chickpeas and olive oil; the deep-fried cauliflower with tahini; the pickled turnips with beetroot, the pickling liquid making them bright purple.