How did I end up ten dishes in and two bottles deep…on a Tuesday? And how did a room with only high-top tables and lighting so bright it would give the restaurateur Keith McNally an anxiety attack become the Central Perk of New York’s scene-seeking, Gamay-drinking, nduja-gobbling fiends? It’s as if, in a city so concerned with aesthetics, the imperfections of the space add to its charm. Here, you come as you are. Here, you can nerd out over a volcanic red like a beer dork might over a home-brewed IPA. Here, you can come for the wine and leave having accidentally eaten one of the best meals you can remember.

Five Ways Wildair Sets the Wine-Bar Standard

1. Every seat is at the bar

The high-top tables at Wildair establish the tone: open, communal, and, as Chef Stone calls it, democratic. There is freedom in not being locked into a three-course meal. You’re eye-level with the server who’s refilling your glass. And it doesn’t take much effort to slip off your stool to greet a friend across the room.

2. Share plates are actually shareable

Though the dishes here are a world away from meat-and-cheese boards, they’re still built to be passed around the table. The chefs avoid artful swooshes or unwieldy garnishes so that all the flavors are packed into each bite.

3. You’ll want to talk about the wine list

You may not recognize a single bottle on it, but wine guru Riera is there to walk you through it all. He’ll even occasionally price a wine under market value to encourage guests to try something new. And the glass pours—traditionally the site of highway-robbery-level markups—are not a rip-off; they’re an opportunity to explore.

4. Magnums just taste better

“This is the perfect format,” says Riera, who can talk your ear off about the superior chemistry of magnums. Cool, but we’re too busy oohing and aahing at the spectacle of oversize bottles to pay much attention. “Everyone’s just so happy when a magnum comes to the table,” Riera says.

5. The wine and food match

Raw. Fermented. Bright. High acid. The same words describe both sides of the menu at Wildair. This means there’s no fussing over food and wine “pairings.” The drink and the dinner options are constantly changing, but every dish will go with practically every bottle. —Belle Cushing

Get the recipes:

Beef Tartare with Smoked Cheddar

Persimmon and Prosciutto Salad with Mozzarella

Spiced Pork Rillette