Alright, this is a pretty long write up. Hell, it's a pretty long job. Took me two days, fair warning. First off, lets start with the supplies you'll need.You'll want a couple gallons of pre-mixed antifreeze, or one gallon of full strength and on gallon of distilled water. Don't use tap water because the minerals will solidify inside your cooling system. Also fetch some delicious high ZDDP oil, a box of band clamps if you haven't already switched all your coolant hoses to them, and an oil filter. I recommend either the Mobil 1 M1-301 (my personal preference) or the Wix 51515XP (a little cheaper, it was on sale, doesn't filter quite as well but pretty close). I also used some water wetter, but it's not absolutely necessary. The one thing I forgot to picture is Vaseline. Be sure to get yourself either some petroleum jelly or some assembly lube. I went with petroleum jelly because its cheap and easy. You also, absolutely, without a doubt, must have a 2 foot breaker bar OR a large torque wrench. Without one or the other you will never get past the harmonic balancer.Ok, you'll also need the actual parts for the replacement. I got the whole set as a kit from Lucky 8 and Erik gave me a forum member discount. It was a steal compared to anything I could find online. Message him for more info. Now, if you've ever drained your cooling system you know what a d*mn mess it makes all over the place. If you've never drained your cooling system... it makes a d*mn mess all over the place. Might work on a drain valve in the future... Anywho, find yourself some sort of pan with a large mouth. I've got this old light fixture I've been using for a couple years that works great. You'll also want a separate pan to drain your oil into.Ok, now we can jump into the write up.-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-Since this is such a large job and the write up is going to be pretty long as it is, I'm not going to picture every single little nut and bolt that needs to be removed one at a time. I will, however, picture the area and describe what needs to be done. If you can't follow the instructions in this manner, you should not attempt this job. If you're not sure if you are capable of tackling this job, read through the write up and feel free to ask questions before starting. I, as well as many others, would be more than happy to answer any and all questions you may have.-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-Alright, starting off with easy stuff. We are simply going to drain the oil and the coolant. Draining oil is easy. Pop off the filler cap, crawl underneath with your 15mm socket on a ratchet and your oil drain pan. It may be easier to use a breaker bar to break the drain plug loose. I usually do just for ease. I always end up punching the cross member when it breaks loose if I don't use the breaker bar. Drop the plug out and allow all the oil to drain. Now sit the plug somewhere that you won't lose it or return it to the drain hole.Now slide the pan up to the front underneath your oil filter. Your filtercome off by hand, but if not then just pop a philips screwdriver through it and spin it off that way. I just drop the filter into the drain pan, you can do with it whatever you please.Once all the oil is drained, move the pan out from other the truck. Next we're draining the coolant, and if you get any coolant in the oil then you won't be able to recycle it.This step depends on whether or not you have the factory style hose clamps or the band style hose clamps. If you've got the factory style, pull out your channel locks. If you've got the band style as I do, use an 8mm socket on your ratchet. Slide your wide mouth pan under the truck closest to where you think most of the coolant will drain. Remove the overflow tank cap, loosen the clamp that attaches the hose to the lower side of the radiator, and slide the hose off allowing the coolant to drain.Now, before you cover your garage/driveway in coolant and awaken the wrath of your mother/girlfriend/wife, quickly kneel down and scoot your pan around so to a position that will allow it to catch the most coolant possible. You'll still get quite a bit on the floor. Keep some towels handy that the lady of the house has forgotten existed or that have already been otherwise ruined for household use.Once that has finished draining, remove the remaining coolant hoses and sit them out of your way. I just sat mine on top of the engine.Now you will need to remove your serpentine belt. I used a 5/8" impact socket on the end of my breaker bar to raise the belt tensioner, but it can be done with a box wrench.Once all of that is out of the way, remove your fan. If you have the factory mechanical fan, you will also need to remove the shroud. You may have already done this to get to the lower radiator hose. If you have the factory mechanical fan you can remove it by clamping a large set of vice grips onto the water pump pulley, as shown below when removing the water pump pulley, and then using a crescent wrench to twist the fan off.If you have done an electric fan conversion, as I have, start by unplugging the fan. If you wired yours directly without plugs, you will be required to cut the wires and I would recommend splicing in connectors so that it can more easily be removed in the future. If you have not converted to an electric fan setup, I highly recommend doing so while the fan is out of the truck. It's quite simple, relatively cheap, and netted me an extra 1 mpg. There is a write up for that which you can find in the index linked in my description.Once it's unplugged, take a flat head screwdriver and place it between the fan and the radiator. Pry with the end of the screwdriver against the fan, NOT against the radiator. If you pry the opposite direction that is shown, you will end up with a hole in your radiator. Do this on both sides to pop the top fan retainers loose and then the whole assembly will lift out. Don't lose the retainers because you will want to reuse those when you reinstall the fan.Alright, now we start getting into the bigger stuff. This part right here is the point of no return because now you have to drop the oil pan to get it back together. If you have been having trouble following along up to this point, put it back together and pay a shop to do the work.Get your breaker bar and pull out your large impact sockets. You will need a 15/16" socket. I placed the breaker bar between the plastic shield that is against the passengers side frame rail and the frame rail itself. Thinking back with "Righty Tighty Lefty Loosey" in mind... I did that wrong. You will want to either place the breaker barthe passengers side frame rail or over top the drivers side frame rail. Use the breaker bar to turn the crank so that the breaker bar is making contact with the frame rail, or at least close to making contact. Once it's on you will want to go bump the starter 2-3 times.Simply bumping the starter won't hurt anything, but if you start the engine then you will be putting considerable stress on yourbearings since there is no oil in the sump to be picked up. Once you've bumped the starter two or three times the bolt will have probably broken loose. If it hasn't then bump it two or three more times or until it does break loose, though it shouldn't take many bumps.At this point the crank bold should twist out with the socket by hand, but if it doesn't then you'll want to stick a ratchet on it. Once it's loosened it should slide right off of the crank and lift out.Alright, now we move under the truck. This will not be fun because you will be spending a bit of time laying on your back working over your head while greasy blobs of dirt try and occasionally succeed to fall in your eyes. Safety glasses are recommended. Don't breathe with your mouth open. I'll tell you now so you don't have to keep crawling under and out from under your truck, you'll need the following tools. Two short or one long ratchet extension(s), a 13mm deep socket, a 10mm deep socket, an 8mm shallow socket, a 13mm box wrench, your breaker bar, and an adapter to adapt the 3/8" drive sockets and extensions to your breaker bar. If you're using all shallow sockets, add another short extension to your list of tools.Now, start with your 8mm and 10mm sockets. remove all the pictured little doo-hickeys holding onto the transmission cooler lines. The first pictured clamp takes a 10mm, second pictured takes an 8mm, and third pictured will want to be loosened with an 8mm on the line side then removed with a 10mm on the oil pan side. Once the oil pan side is removed, place the bolt back in the pan so you don't lose it.Alright, not that that's done you will be able to get to all of the oil pan nuts and bolts. There are three nuts with washers on the very front that connect the oil pan to the front cover, six bolts on both the drivers side and the passengers side of the pan going up into the block. Those should all be fairly straight forward. This is a picture of all of the bolts (sans 1) that hold the pan in, which will give you a better idea of where the bolts are located and how I sat mine in order to not get them mixed up. I recommend sitting all your bolts out in the pattern that they should go back in like this, and be careful not to knock them. This will make your job easier when the time comes to reinstall the pan.Now, there will be two more bolts on either side pointing backwards that go from the pan and thread back into the bell housing. These had the larger 13mm head. You know, I keep telling you 13mm, but the truth is I'm not positive because I'm writing most of this from memory as I go through the pictures. I think it was a 13mm, but it might not be. Someone correct me if I'm wrong and I'll correct it. These will be kinda tough to get to, but I believe every single one was possible with the socket and ratchet after I loosened the trans cooler lines. The hardest one was the one pictured which was at a weird angle and I had to reach around the exhaust and the trans cooler lines.Now, here are the last four bolts. There are two going from the bell housing that thread into the oil pan which you can see in this picture hanging out, and then there will be two up in the holes which you can see my socket up in. Once all of these are out, you will still not be able to remove the oil pan because, like me, you will have forgotten one bolt that will attempt to give you hell. Please, if the pan does not come out with relative ease, don't yank on it because you will crack it. Do another inspection and find the one you missed and the pan should come out relatively easily. You may have to pry some with a screwdriver to get it past the studs that attach it to the front cover, but once past those it will attempt to come crashing down into you. Don't worry, it won't make it past the axle/track bar/crossmember/etc.Now, slide the pan out of your way as well as you can and then take your 8mm socket. You will want to remove the two bolts that hold the oil pickup to the front cover and then simply pull it out. This might take a little tugging because the way the pickup is mounted keeps it pretty tight, but it'll come.