Paris

Judging from the menu descriptions, someone who has just wandered into a Grom store in Milan or Amorino in Shanghai might mistake it for a fancy wine bar or gourmet food shop. But ingredients like Pedro Ximenez wine, Tonda Gentile hazelnut from the Langhe, and Sfusato lemon from Amalfi are finding their way into ice-cream cones in these sleek, upscale and often understated shops. Around the world, these small companies are now marketing Italian gelato as a delicacy for connoisseurs willing to pay a premium for natural...