This 49-liter release of glass-aged mezcal is a special treat bottled for our friends in the great state of Colorado. It was produced in the Spring of 2017 at Emigdio Jarquín Ramirez’ palenque in Nanche, Miahuatlán, Oaxaca (16°23'51.4"N 96°33'03.5"W) and is the newest expression in our line of post-distillation blended mezcals.

For this extremely limited batch, we took 90 liters of a single-distilled 100% Madrecuixe mezcal that was produced in late February 0f 2017 to a bottling proof of 50.53% ABV and blended it with 60 liters of a double-distilled 100% Tobalá mezcal that was produced in April of 2017 to a bottling proof of 50.85% ABV. The resulting 150-liter blend was then split into 93-liters to experiment with our clay-aging process and another 54-liters left to rest in glass (3 liters were pulled from the 150 for certification testing).

While post-distillation blending and clay-aging are both somewhat rare techniques that we have experimented with in the past, this was the first time that we were blending and aging with a specific purpose in mind. We have always thought that the rich sweetness and grassy undertone of Madrecuixe would benefit from and complement the lighter floral, mint, and citrus notes of a Tobalá. It was just a matter of time before finding the right batches. After tasting several different proportions, some Madrecuixe heavy, some Tobalá dominant, we decided to focus on a predominantly Madrecuixe blend, in order to give the mezcal the body to hold up to spending time in the porous clay and the minerality it would impart. Over the course of the next few months, we would periodically siphon a small sample out of the clay cántaros to see how the flavor had evolved. We pulled it from clay after three months of rest and rested another two months in 18-liter glass garafone before being bottled in January.

Purists may argue that post-distillation is not the most traditional approach to mezcal, and we would agree. However, from time to time we do encounter a batch of mezcal that, while beautiful in its own right, may shine when rounded out with characteristics from another mezcal and result in a more balanced spirit. We also have occasionally utilized this practice when a particular batch was high in acids, or other compounds under the previous NOM certification limits. There is a saying that we follow here at Vago; we use it to help us continue to innovate, but not abandon or bastardize the knowledge and practices of those that came before us: “Rooted in tradition, but not stuck in the past.” It inspires us to look for ways to constantly improve what we are able to share with our friends. Not make cheaper or more efficient. Better. And ultimately, if it means we are going to be able to give more money directly to our mezcaleros, then the decision is clear.

In the glass, this batch of mezcal will have a full nose of lighter notes such as mint, white flower, dry hay, burlap, and garden-fresh starch vegetable (think of digging up and snapping a raw potato). Upon tasting, the palate is dominated up front by the rich, sweet notes and heavy body of cooked agave, buttercream frosting, and vibrant peppermint. There are also notes of cardamom and lime pulp. As the mid-palate begins to take hold, the sweet richness transitions towards grassy and vegetal notes, where minerality and wet soil begin to show with a slight menthol note. The finish is dominated by a stone-fruit sweetness and citrus from the Tobalá along with starch and lingering dust from the Madre Cuixe and a lingering minerality likely contributed by Emigdio’s mineral-rich water source and the clay-aging. The clay-aging, like most resting processes, rounds out the body and allows the different flavors to blend more smoothly. The clay also adds texture and creaminess to the body of the mezcal, making it a perfect compliment to mezcals that usually have a brighter, green finish.