Well after some deliberation, and a really good sale price was offered on my head-unit, I decided to take a plunge and do a whole radio re-do on my 2016 that originally had the 6.2 Starlink headunit.I have about an hour to hour and a half each way commute everyday and really wanted a good sounding stereo for my music and podcasts. I originally was just going to go with the Kicker upgraded speakers and the headunit, but as the headunit came out to $299 vs the $500 I was budgeting for, I decided to go a bit further and also add in a dedicated amp for the doors, as well as an underseat sub to remind me of the glory days of my youth with multiple 12's and thousands of watts.Also of big consideration to me was keeping the cargo capacity the same. I have a big dog that takes up most of the trunk space, and I frequently drop all the seats and load cargo and stuff. This dictated that I go underseat, and I found a few options that fit the bill. With going small, my power requirements were also much less than those 1500w amps of my past, and I wouldn't fry the door speakers or wires as well. They were also really affordable to boot.I've added head units to just about every car I have owned, but this was one of the more complex ones with the added backup camera and OEM USB and AUX ports, but still was within reason. The door speaker amplifier gets its signal from the RCA outs from the headunit, and then sends the amplified power up to the original speaker harness adapters, so no extra wiring was run to power the doors.In all total, this setup cost me under a grand, and about a days work. All connections are soldered and heat shrunk for a long lasting connection. I think this was good value for money. It delivers car play, a good sounding punch, and plenty of sound in a completely discreet package.Pioneer App Radio 4 - Capacitive flush glass screen, HDMI - Slick radio if you have an iPhone for Car play, unfortunately doesn't have android auto.Kenwood KAC-M3004 4-channel Amp - Powers the door speakers with 50w RMS Power - I have the Kicker Upgrade which are rated for the powerPioneer TS-WX102A Compact powered Sub - Compact underseat Sub and amp to help fill in some of the lowsOEM Kicker Door Speakers - H631SFJ001, Upgraded Tweeters - H631SFJ101Metra 40-LX11 Antenna Adaptor Cable - Required for Radio functionalityMetra 95-8907HG Double DIN Dash Kit - RequiredMetra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness - RequiredAxxess AX-CAM6V 12 Volt DC to 6 Volt DC Step-Down Converter for Backup Cameras - Optional - to keep OEM backup cameraAxxess AX-SUB28SWC Prewired Steering Wheel Control Harness - Optional - Retains factory AUX port as well as the backup camera wiringMetra Axxess ASWC-1 Universal Steering Wheel Control Interface - Optional - Keeps Factory steering wheel buttonsAxxess AX-SUBUSB2 USB Retention Harness - Optional - Keeps factory USB portMicroBypass Parking Brake Switch - Optional - Allows full radio functionality when not parked2 Amplifier wiring kits (Power, ground, speaker, remote, RCA cables and wires)Everything is completely tucked away under the seats, and all the wiring was hidden under the carpets, so it has a very clean appearance. Power was fed in through a blank grommet on the firewall, with the fuse and extra cable length hidden under the driver side inner fender cover.There is a couple "looms" of wire coiled up next to the amp, but I preferred to have extra lengths of wire so I can adjust and remove it from under the seats to tune it. But even with the extra wire, it all fits neatly under the seat, Velcroed to the carpets.