News and major updates

A big thank you to all of those who over the years have donated to help mantain this webpage: here.

PATAGONIA ICE-FIELDS. Thickness and volume. The results of a survey by Romain Millan and others was published last year in the journal Geophysical Research. It assessed the ice thickness and volume of the Northern and Southern Patagonian Ice-fields. They used gravimeters, flown in airplanes, and the measurements were used to map the ice thickness. They detected places with ice exceeding 1,600m in thickness. Together, both Patagonia ice-fields hold roughly 40 times the ice volume of the European Alps. As example, the plateau between Cordón Marconi and Cordón Mariano Moreno is estimated to be 1200m deep.

SOUTHERN PATAGONIA 19/20 Season.



A detailed summary of the most relevant climbing activity in Southern Patagonia during the 2019 / 2020 season can be found here, including short descriptions of all the important ascents, as well as comments about the accidents that ocurred, and risk management considerations. In the next few weeks, I will incorporate the new ascents into the existing route data base. Also, in a few months there should be a responsive version of this site, which will include Torres del Paine.

COMO LLEGAR A NIPONINO - Aproximación por lado izquierdo.



Marcin Wernik y Fernando Shammah prepararon esta guia en pdf de como llegar a Niponino por el lado izquierdo de la laguna (suroeste). Si bien mucha gente ha estado aproximando por el lado derecho (noreste), habiendo probado ambos lados Jeff y Priti Wright piensan que el lado izquierdo es más seguro y fácil, aunque Ian Dodds clarifica que el lado derecho es mucho más rápido (al menos 1hs más corto). GETTING TO NIPONINO - Left side approach. Marcin Wernik and Fernando Shammah prepared this pdf guide of how to get to Niponino via the left side of Laguna Torre (southwest). Although many people have been approaching via the right side (northeast), having tried both sides Jeff and Priti Wright feel it is easier and safer via the left side, however Ian Dodds clarifies that the right side is much faster (more than 1hs shorter).

CERRO TORRE GLACIER: moraine age dating. A recent study by Scott Reynhout, Esteban Sagredo, et al., offers the most accurate dating yet of the Cerro Torre Glacier moraines. Using surface-exposure cosmogenic dating (Beryllium-10), they dated seven moraines, obtaining a chronology of the glacier’s advances over the last 18,000 years, which should go a long ways to improve our understanding of the climate fluctuations during that period. The outer most moraine studied, was dated as being 17,000 years old; the moraine in the vicinity of the trail-fork leading to Laguna Madre e Hija, was dated as being 13,000 years old; the following moraine was dated as being 11,600 years old; the moraine before Campo de Agostini is in fact two, the outer one was dated as being 6,900 years old, the inner one 6,100 years, with a younger lateral section that is 4,500 years old; and moraine surrounding Laguna Torre was dated as being 520 years old. The full study can be downloaded from this link (pdf), and a photo showing the moraine ages can be seen here.

"ALPINE MASCULINITY:

A Gendered Figuration of Capital in the Patagonian Andes” In a recent article (pdf download) anthropologist Marcos Mendoza discusses the gender inequalities that can be found in the ecotourism industry and in the mountaineering scene. How the alpine is figured as a space for certain types of subjects, robust males, while women and non-alpine men get marginalized and devalued. The narrative of heroism is at the root of this built in gender bias. If we are to aspire to a more gender neutral space in the alpine environment, do we need to start by revising these cultural constructs? Sexism is so omnipresent that it even appears in the local toponyms. The overwhelmingly male-dominated guiding industry leads to a marked socioeconomic disadvantage for woman and non-alpine men. In one powerful remark Marcos points out that “alpine men have established a near monopoly over the exclusive vertical space of consumption and recreation associated with climbing” and that “women struggle against gender barriers in alpinism, facing sexism, skepticism about their abilities, and paternalistic attitudes that deny their very presence in the Andes.” Much for all of us to think about in Marcos’ article, which although written with El Chalten in mind applies equally to many mountain towns around the world. Marcos is the author of “The Patagonian Sublime: The Green Economy and Post-Neoliberal Politics”.

SOUTHERN PATAGONIA - 2018/19 Season. A detailed summary of climbing activity in Southern Patagonia during the 2018/19 season can be found here, including short descriptions of all the important ascents, as well as comments about the accidents that ocurred, and risk management considerations. A telegram style list of all important ascents and first ascents can be found here, with each ascent linked to it's corresponding route page.

"THE PATAGONIAN SUBLIME: The Green Economy and Post-Neoliberal Politics."

Anthropologist Marcos Mendoza has just published a revealing analysis of the El Chalten area. The book lays bare the issues behind the green economy, dives deep into the social fabric of the town, addresses mountaineering and trekking, takes a close look at APN’s regulatory approach, touches on grassroots actions and a long etcetera. If you are socially and academically inclined, buy a copy. A review here. You can buy it here.

CHALTEN MASSIF - 2017/18 Season summary. List of important ascents, and first ascents: here.

CHALTEN MASSIF - 2016/17 Season summary. List of important ascents, and first ascents: here.

CERRO PAINE GRANDE19/05/2016 Cerro Paine Grande is the tallest and bulkiest peak in the Torres del Paine National Park. It has been climbed only four times: 1957, 2000, 2011 and 2016. It certainly deserves far more attention. The purpose of this write-up is to give a quick overview of what has been done. There are still a few things that require sorting, particularly the line followed by the Japanese expedition back in 1969. Read on.

