So many of the Mexican restaurants in the Twin Cities are variations on a theme: Enchiladas, tacos, burritos, sopes or tamales, served with rice and beans. Kitschy traditional decor.

Don’t get me wrong, I have no problem whatsoever with any of those things. But it’s refreshing when someone tries something new, something that more closely resembles the food I have eaten in Mexico, especially in coastal areas.

And La Costa (194 Cesar Chavez St., St. Paul; 651-330-8743; lacostamn.com), the newest Mexican restaurant on Cesar Chavez Street on the West Side of St. Paul, is not only serving up some good eats, they’re also doing so in a fresh, modern space with nary a sombrero or string of pepper lights in sight. There’s a trendy reclaimed barnwood bar and wood accents everywhere. The storefront consists of three glass garage doors that open to the fresh air outside. And there are also lime-green and gray-scale murals of sports figures on the wall, because this is technically a sports bar.

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Game on! Tailgating takeout ideas for game day But unlike most American sports bars, the focus on the food at La Costa is apparent.

There’s a handful of fresh, raw seafood preparations on the menu, which was the first pleasant surprise. The fresh, citrusy ceviche ($14) was nearly as good as what we’ve had on the beach in Mexico. The preparation is kept simple, with jalapenos, tomatoes, onions and cilantro. A few slices of creamy avocado and some really fresh tortilla chips were great accompaniments.

Fresh guacamole ($10) is good here, too. Before you balk at the price, know that the portion is so big that four of us didn’t come close to polishing it off. I kind of wish they offered a half order.

We couldn’t resist ordering the Papa al Horno ($7.50), which is basically the Mexican version of a baked, stuffed potato. However, instead of stopping at bacon, the baker is also loaded with ham, sausage, pork, plenty of butter and some melted chihuahua cheese. Diet food, it is not. Delicious, it is.

A torta ($9) was stuffed with all the usual suspects, including avocado, chipotle mayonnaise, beans and cheese. Though it was delicious, the roll was a little squishier than we prefer, and we felt it was a little light on the meat.

Order the carnitas platter ($11), though, and you’ll have meat for days. Tender, griddle-crisped, porky goodness, to be exact.

And tell me where else you can get a sizeable tilapia filet, stuffed with shrimp and wrapped in bacon (Rollo del Mar) for a mere $18? It comes with a big pile of corn-studded rice and a little salad, too.

Speaking of decent portions, the flavorful Pollo Asado ($15), is half a chicken, and it comes with two sides. We like the rice and the charro beans, which are more of a whole-bean presentation than the typical refried beans.

The margaritas here are freshly muddled and not too sweet, and the other cocktails we tried, tequila-based and otherwise, were decent, too.

The menu at La Costa is quite extensive and does include burritos, tacos, nachos and other street foods. After trying the rest of the menu, we’re excited to give those a chance, too.

Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of new or changed restaurants.