The newest location of Mac’s Fish and Chips (300 S. Snelling Ave., St. Paul; 651-699-5441; macsfishchipsstrips.com), the bare-bones, limited-menu, counter-service restaurant that focuses on one thing and doing it well, is up and running on Snelling Avenue in St. Paul.

The spot might be less well-worn than the first one in an old gas station on Larpenteur Avenue, but the bare-bones decor and approach to dining feels quite familiar.

Crazy-crisp battered fish, shrimp or clams, hand-cut, delicious fries, fresh coleslaw and a few other touches are what keep regulars coming.

On a recent visit, we sampled some items while eating in the restaurant, which has limited seating that includes a few small tables and one long, communal table in the back of the space.

We can highly recommend the flaky walleye ($8.50 for a half order, $14.75 for a whole). A half order is plenty for those with reasonable appetites, and it’s great with Mac’s key lime jalapeno tartar sauce. There’s also a rosemary-infused malt vinegar that is great on the deep-golden, crisp fries, if you’re into that sort of thing.

It’s also awesome that you can get halibut here ($11 for a half order, $17.95 for a whole). The dense, filling fish lends itself well to the fish-and-chip treatment.

The chicken fingers ($5.95 for 3, $10.25 for 6) were less successful. They are prepared with the same batter as the fish, and it somehow feels greasy on the chicken.

The location will eventually serve beer and wine, but for now, it’s soft drinks only. We’re looking forward to beer with our fried fish, so hopefully it’s soon.

But each customer does get a piece of the restaurant’s freshly house-made salt-water taffy with their order, which delighted the children in our group.

Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of new or changed restaurants.