A QuikTrip billboard along the interstate grabbed my attention because of its simplicity. A humongous slice of pizza filled the board, but something about the toppings was different, something intriguing. Instead of the standard pepperoni or olive, little bits of egg, bacon and sausage poked through a layer of bubbly, melted cheese. My eyes flicked to the right: “Breakfast Pizza: Now Available at QuikTrip.” I knew where I had to go.

In a move to distinguish itself from other gas station food marts, QuikTrip launched “QT Kitchens” last year to serve hot food “made fresh to order.” The menu includes an impressive catalog of sandwiches, soft pretzels, flatbreads and other items the kitchen staff can easily reheat.

The only menu item besides the pizza that interested me was the kolach, a central-European pastry, usually filled with jelly, that QuikTrip adopted as a handheld breakfast snack. Instead of jelly, QuikTrip offers a choice between a sausage kolach and one filled with bacon, egg and cheese. I dropped $2 on the latter.

The true object of my desire, the breakfast pizza, was apparently in such high demand that I found it in the “Grab & Go” section, a warming shelf near the door that made the question of freshness impossible to answer. I had come this far, though, so I swallowed my reluctance and bought a slice ($2.99).

When it came time to taste it, the pizza hit me immediately with a barrage of salt, understandable given the litany of high-sodium toppings: cheese, bacon bits, sausage balls, egg-resembling crumbles. Instead of a sweet, acidic tomato sauce to cut the salt, a slimy layer of sausage gravy coated the crust. This pizza straddled the line of unpalatable saltiness.

To its credit, the breakfast pizza wasn’t as bad as I expected. It still benefitted from crispy bacon, peppery sausage and a crispy, golden crust. The flavorless bits of egg, however, did nothing for the slice, and the thick gravy just weighed it down.

Surprisingly, after an extended stay in a gas station display case, the pizza retained considerable overall flavor and—after a quick trip to the toaster oven—even texture.

Despite the amount of advertising QuikTrip expended on the breakfast pizza, the highlight of the breakfast was the kolach. Its soft, buttery bread exterior gave way to chewy (though some would say “limp”) bacon, melted American cheese and an egg patty that lacked flavor but felt springy like real egg.

Fit for anyone who needs a quick breakfast on the go, the kolach lends itself better to one-handed snackage, sort of like a Hot Pocket—unlike the pizza, which necessitated a knife and fork.

The breakfast pizza, unusual and creative enough to draw people in, succeeds as a gimmick, but is no better than the sum of its parts. It’s less of a breakfast than a confused, unweildy pile of breakfast foods. This slice has earned its 15 minutes of fame, but don’t expect it to become a staple any time soon.