Underbelly refocuses menu to fish, vegetables

Seared tuna with Thai-style cucumber, tomato, and long bean salad from the new fish- and vegetable-focused menu at Underbelly. Seared tuna with Thai-style cucumber, tomato, and long bean salad from the new fish- and vegetable-focused menu at Underbelly. Photo: Julie Soefer Photo: Julie Soefer Image 1 of / 27 Caption Close Underbelly refocuses menu to fish, vegetables 1 / 27 Back to Gallery

Significant changes are afoot that will alter the food focus at one of Houston's most lauded restaurants.

The five-year-old Underbelly, the restaurant that James Beard Award-winning chef Chris Shepherd made a national culinary destination, is changing its menu to reflect a greater emphasis on seafood and vegetable dishes. It's a direction of notable importance given that Underbelly has been known for its whole animal program where cows were broken down in the restaurant's butcher shop and beef cuts were prominently featured on the menu.

But Shepherd has been busy over the past year refocusing the story he's telling about Houston food – a message so well received that he's among the local chefs that helped make the city a culinary hot spot. Earlier this year Shepherd launched the ambitious One Fifth restaurant (in the former Mark's American Cuisine spot) that will change its menu five times over five years.

And now comes a completely new focus for his signature restaurant that was built on whole animal (pigs and goats, too) cooking. Shepherd now sees the whole animal program as limiting menu diversity. Beef, for example, took up a lot of space on the menu – an imbalance, he now calls it -- because all parts of the animal had to be used.

So starting June 20, Underbelly no longer will buy whole steers. The menu will immediately shift to a greater emphasis on seafood and vegetables. And seafood not just from the Gulf (Underbelly has traditionally used Gulf fish, and was one of the early champions of bycatch fish); Shepherd is now looking beyond the local waters to seek out fish from other American coasts. The new menu offers dishes such as ceviches, crudos, seafood towers, Vietnamese- and Thai-flavored fish, seared tuna and red snapper, and grilled Gulf fish.

"No one wants a giant beef shank in the middle of a hot Houston summer," Shepherd said. "But in the past, we've had to serve it, because we had an entire cow in the butcher shop cooler. Our cooks want more variety, and frankly, so do our guests."

Underbelly will continue to serve meat (from 44 Farms as needed) and continue to butcher whole pigs, goat, chicken and fish. It also will continue its charcuterie program. And those Korean braised goat dumplings that have become an Underbelly signature? No need for panic: they're staying on the menu.

But fish and vegetables are now front and center. Fish coming from purveyors securing the best catch in waters from the Gulf up through Virginia. And vegetables from local farmers – which Underbelly has done since Day 1 but now with a more intense emphasis.

There's another major development coming for Underbelly and its sister restaurant next door, the Hay Merchant: cocktails.

Previously wine and beer only establishments – Underbelly built a significant wine program under wine director Matthew Pridgen, while owner Kevin Floyd championed a highly curated craft beer experience at the Hay Merchant – both will now serve spirits for the first time.

The Hay Merchant is planning to serve cocktails beginning June 27 followed by Underbelly's new cocktail menu on July 10.

The move to full bars at both restaurants is part of a natural evolution for both Shepherd and Floyd. Floyd has been immersed in spirits as he's been building the cocktail program at One Fifth. And for several years now Shepherd has been indulging in a personal passion for bourbon.

The cocktail programs for each will be executed by newly appointed spirits director Westin Galleymore, who most recently bartended at One Fifth and spent two years at Anvil Bar & Refuge.

The cocktails at the Hay Merchant are designed to be "playful, easy, and approachable," according to a press release. The spirits program will be smaller at the Hay Merchant than at Underbelly, preserving the focus on beer. And most of the Hay Merchant cocktails will be on tap just like the draft beers.

At Underbelly, meanwhile, the cocktail program will be deeper and more dynamic.

"People are excited to dine here because they know they'll try something new every time," Galleymore said. "That's the way I want the cocktail menu to be – clean, well-sourced and ever evolving."

Growlers will no longer be sold at the Hay Merchant due to the new type of liquor license. Similarly, Underbelly no longer will be able to sell wine to go, or allow customers to BYOB.

Shepherd said he welcomes all the changes because they continue to tell new stories about the way Houston eats (and drinks).

"I've always said that the only thing consistent about Underbelly is change," he said. "And this is just one more example of change."

Underbelly, 1100 Westheimer, 713-528-9800, underbellyhouston.com; The Hay Merchant, 1100 Westheimer, 713-528-9805, haymerchant.com