Situated roughly halfway between San Francisco and Santa Cruz, nestled just beyond the quaint fishing town at Half Moon Bay, is the home to one of the world’s most notorious big wave breaks: Maverick’s. With its frigid waters, ominously grey skies, half-mile paddle-out to the lineup, robust marine wildlife (great whites, anyone?), and propensity for regularly handing out two and sometimes even three-wave hold-downs, there’s little wonder why this Northern California monster holds the title as the heaviest wave on the west coast. And while recent years may have seen Nazare’s height, or Peahi’s hollow bowl section take much of the spotlight, the fact is that Maverick’s remains one of the most feared and respected arenas for pitting man against XXL swell energy.

WATCH LIVE: Maverick’s Surf Cam

First surfed in the late ’80s by California big-wave pioneer Jeff Clark, who, legend has it, surfed the break solo for upwards of a decade before finding anyone else willing to paddle out with him, Mav’s has seen its share of surfers come to challenge the break — and it’s never been one to be tamed easily. From the hard-charging Santa Cruz contingent of the late ’90s to the second-generation hell-boys of the 2000s to the current crop of international elite who descend on the break each year, nary a swell goes by without Maverick’s producing some of the most jaw-dropping rides of any given winter season.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: SF/San Mateo County Regional Surf Forecast

So, to learn more about what makes Maverick’s so special, we called up local legend and Mav’s pioneer Grant Washburn to get an insider’s perspective.

Best Conditions

“Long period (14-20 second) West and WNW swells are best for ‘classic’ Maverick’s,” says Washburn. “Shorter period swells get absorbed by extreme gaps in the bottom, and usually won’t break at all. Super long period swells of 25 seconds and up are very tricky, and dangerous.

“A calm sea state and light wind is ideal, but the surf can be fun even with strong onshore or NW winds. The waves move quickly, and the extreme plunge of the main bowl often sucks it smooth. On giant days the outer reef to the north will actually provide a bit of a wind block. Any wind from the south is a problem, and Maverick’s will be one of the first spots on the coast to become un-surfable when a front arrives with southerlies.”

READ MORE: One Unpredictable Day at Maverick’s

Crowd Factor

“Maverick’s is crowded these days, and the talent and experience level of the surfers is extremely high,” notes Washburn. “Twenty years ago it wasn’t unusual for the spot to be empty on occasion, even on a nice day. Now eager crowds sitting deep on the peak are the norm, even on some marginal days with treacherous conditions. On the best swells, huge packs have become standard, sometimes close to one hundred riders are vying for a very narrow takeoff zone. The danger presented by crowds during these swells surpassed the very significant risks served up by Mother Nature many seasons ago.

“But the vibe in the lineup remains surprisingly positive. Maverick’s is very special, and it seems everyone appreciates that fact. The best big-wave riders in the world tend to be a respectful group, and that has helped maintain an atmosphere not present in most crowded spots. When it’s at capacity, it helps if everyone accepts a lower wave count, and makes the most of each ride. On a good day the inside sections are excellent, and rides can go for a quarter-mile or more. Anyone who just drops into a bomb, kicks out after the photo, and paddles right back out to do it again is wasting quality surf, and being selfish. Most everyone out there is capable of dominating lineups, and no one likes a wave hog.”

Local Legends

“Some sessions the bowl at Maverick’s looks like the front row at the XXL awards,” says Washburn. “Name a rockstar, and they’re likely out there, along with several dozen veterans, a few hardcore travelers and a frothing pack of young guns. Be polite, pay attention and surf smart. If you can’t catch a wave without being sure no one is behind you, then you should be riding elsewhere. Great surfers have died here, and it will happen again. It will be extra tragic if the next fatality is caused by a negligent kook, so don’t be one.

“The main ledge is a fast moving slab. Don’t paddle for waves, and then pull back saying ‘whoa, that one really sucked out!’ Of course it did — and someone else was probably going to catch it.”

READ MORE: How to Butt-Slide Maverick’s with Francisco Porcella

What Board(s) to Ride

“You need a board that you can control at top speed,” Washburn advises. “Most days Maverick’s does not require a 10’6 Nazaré beast. The peak is very focused at 15-20 feet, the shape of the wave is hard to negotiate on a giant board, and they are often a hazard. People have been catching huge pits on boards in the 8′ 6″ to 9′ range, and there is an obvious advantage once you hit your feet. Most veterans say progression is heading in that direction.”

A few jetskis, and a few brave paddle surfers during a massive Mav’s swell on January 18th, 2018. Watch the live Mav’s cam here.

Pro Tip(s)

“Maverick’s is in a marine reserve, and jetskis are illegal except on rare, outer reef swells,” says Washburn. “On any day, boating laws dictate that all vehicles must stay 300 feet from surfers. There are several low-key and very experienced rescue drivers who watch over the point, but dozens of personal watercraft operating without coordination is not safe, and will draw backlash. It is often impossible to know where all 75 surfers are during a big set, and several people have been struck by watercraft while surfacing in the foam. The best plan is to check in with one of the veteran drivers when you arrive, and follow their lead.

“Wakes also make a mess of the lineup, and can ruin a good drop. Photography boats jockeying for position add to the problems. If you are operating a craft near the area, please be aware of your impact. If you are using a ski for any purpose, consider that most of the surfers will appreciate you staying well clear of the surf zone at all times. Skis should not be used as a ‘chair lift’ and drivers should avoid racing in to check on every surfer who falls. The authorities are always monitoring the activity at Maverick’s, and if complaints pile up, enforcement will follow. People don’t actively use ski assist (or tow) on average days for a reason. Out of sight (smell, and wake), out of mind. If everyone plays it cool, there is generally little friction.”