Drifting in the snow under a blisteringly clear blue sky, then the slush fest in the forest – who says that winter is purely for skiing? Who says you can’t have a ton of fun out there on your e-mtb? For those out there who aren’t put off by a bit of snow, here are our top tips for riding in winter.

E-mountain bike tuning tops for winter

Surely the easiest step towards tuning your e-mtb for winter is fixing a mudguard or mud crutch. Admittedly not the sexiest trapping for your bike, they provide vital protection against mud, slush and snow and make sure your vision isn’t hampered by all that slush you’re flinging around. A must-have for the winter!

Even though the majority of us envision winter as one expansive, white, snow-covered landscape, the reality on the trails is usually another story: slushy puddles, wet roots, slippery rocks, sheets of ice and deep snow – these all create an added challenge for your tyres. We’d definitely recommend tyres with a softer rubber compound (such as the Schwalbe Vert-Ster) and a chunkier, more open profile. If you choose a model with a thicker carcass then you can increase the grip by lowering the air pressure without any impact on the risk of puncturing. Just make sure you identify where and what sort of riding you’re going to be doing and base your decisions on that. For proper challenging trail riding this winter, we’d recommend tyres like that Schwalbe Magic Mary, or even the MICHELIN Wild MUD Advanced. More mellow trails should be fine with Schwalbe’s Hans Dampf tyres or the Continental Trail King. Should you brave the elements and head out on icy patches or pure snow carpets, then you’d be wise to check out special spiked tyres such as the Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro.

Your suspension set-up can also massively impact on grip too: try lessening the spring stiffness in order to generate enough grip. For most of the newer forks and rear shocks, you might just have to open the low speed compression damping. The risk of bottoming out – a potential given the open compression damping – is actually minimal during winter as you’ll be riding at far slower speeds.

Tuning the rider – How do I prepare for an e-mtb ride in winter?

Given the presence of pedal-assist and the fact that you can regulate your exertion, you should consider wrapping up a little warmer and kitting yourself out in layers (plus an extra one in your backpack). This should minimize the chances of cooling down too drastically as the wind hits you. High performance thermal underwear is crucial, so check out the apparel from Odlo or, if you’re particularly vulnerable to the cold, have a think about a heated model from AVADE. A softshell combination on the outside will keep wind and water from penetrating your body. Thermal, waterproof shoes, over-socks or socks (such as Sealskinz) and warm clothes are essential, as it’s never enjoyable when your extremities are hit the hardest by the chill factor. An insulated drinking bladder, such as the SOURCE Durabag, will stop your drink from freezing and retain a nice, drinkable temperature for the fluid.

After the ride: Looking after your e-mtb in winter

It’s important that you give your e-mtb a thorough clean after every ride. We don’t recommend using a jet wash, as it could result in damage to the bearings and electronic parts. Each manufacturer usually gives pretty exact advice when it comes to taking care of their e-bikes: Bosch, for example, recommends taking off the battery. The best advice is to use a garden hose or a bucket of warm water with foam to remove the most obvious bit of dirt by hand or with a brush, then use a good cleaning fluid such as Muc-Off to get rid of any build-up of grime or grease. Then rinse your bike once more with clean water to make sure all the snow has disappeared before drying it with a piece of soft material.

Let’s look at the motor now: splash a bit of multifunctional cleaning fluid onto a cloth and use that to wipe away the majority of the dirt from the chain, cassette and chainrings. During winter, it’s a good idea to use a special chain oil with higher viscosity, which should keep the oil on for longer and, therefore, protect the motor for longer. By directly oiling the chain after washing the bike then you’ll prevent the build-up of rust. But make sure you wipe down the suspension with a soft microfiber cloth.

Once the bike is spick and span, you want to try and keep it that way for as long as possible. Check out the surfaces for any scratches or damage to the paintwork, as these areas are vulnerable to rust and oxidation. All of the paintwork (and particularly these damaged bits) should be cleaned with water and a dirt-defying cleaning product such as Muc-Off MO-94. This step is to prevent corrosion and make the next washing process even easier. Try to avoid contact with the battery as much as possible – and your best bet is to use a resin-free multi-functional fluid or a gentle contact spray such as TOP-PIN from Cramolin.

So now that’s the frame and chain covered, shift your attention to the bike’s moving parts: depending on the age of your ride and your headset seals, try and renew the grease in the bearing cups to help protect the sealed bearings. As this is where the fork sits, you can take care of them right now with a thorough clean and then put some suspension fork fluid on the rubber parts. The best way to re-grease your forks is to put them upside-down for a few minutes. On full suspension bikes, it’s really important to properly check the bearings in the pivot points, and replace if needed. To check the bearings, you’ll have to remove the rear shock. If they’re really dirty, running roughly or have any play in them, then you should get an expert to change them. By riding too long with worn or damaged bearings, you run the risk of wearing other parts.

Just as important as the manual cleaning of your bike is where it’s stored during winter. Make sure it’s somewhere dry and – if possible – avoid standing it next to a heavily-used car, which you’ll probably be driving in and out of the garage frequently, therefore putting the bike at the mercy of moisture, salt and dirt. Any moisture in the air will cause oxidation.

At best, store the battery at room temperature as anything colder than that will impact on its lifespan. As you head out for a ride, start with pedal-assist turned on so that you’ll warm the battery immediately to get it to a working temperature.

So can’t ski, won’t ski – who cares? These tips will keep your bike in tiptop condition for an e-mtb adventure in the snow. Just keep cool, wrap up and have fun!

It's finally here: The E-MOUNTAINBIKE Print Edition 2020 is our third annual edition and ultimate test bible, with which we aim to help you choose the perfect eMTB. More than 250 pages of extensive buyers advice, tons of eMTB know-how as well as reviews of the 35 most exciting eMTBs and the 7 best motors. You’ll also find many helpful tips and a guide to the most exciting eMTB trends – all of this is wrapped in a high quality print format. Click here for more information or order it directly in our shop!

Words & Photos: Noah Haxel