One of the oldest cities in Russia – contemporary to Novgorod – Smolensk carries plenty of cultural history into the present day. Ancient walls, onion dome cathedrals and well-landscaped parks are strewn across the undulating hills of this mid-sized city. The highlight is the magnificent Assumption Cathedral.

But music lovers should consider visiting for the renowned Glinka Festival in June. Set on the upper Dnepr River, 360 km southwest of Moscow, Smolensk was first mentioned in 863 as the capital of Slavic Krivichi ethnic groups. The town's auspicious setting gave it early control over trade routes between

Moscow and the west and between the Baltic and Black Seas. By the late 1100's, Smolensk was one of the strongest principalities in Eastern Europe. It was then that the remarkable Svirskaya Church emerged. As Muscovy and Lithuania vied for power in the 13th century, the city was literally caught in the middle and invaded from both sides.

Battle with Napoleon

There was a big battle between the Russians and Napoleon's army outside Smolensk in 1812 (later immortalized in Tolstoy's War and Peace) and heavy fighting in 1941 and 1943. In a sign of Soviet favor, much of the devastated center was quickly rebuilt, often along original plans, resulting in the very complete feeling of the central area today. Long sections of the restored city walls boast fine towers reminiscent of the Moscow Kremlin.

Other areas of interest for the visitor include flax production and music. Smolensk was the regional hub of flax production during the Middle ages, and you can still find fine local flax products. Meanwhile, composer Mikhail Glinka, regarded as the founder of Russian art music, grew up near Smolensk and performed often in the Nobles' Hall, facing what is now the Glinka Garden. The statue of Glinka, installed in 1885, with a fence around it with excerpts from his opera "A life for the Tsar" wrought into the iron.