Setsubun, held in early February, marks the start of the new year in the lunar calendar. Geiko and maiko celebrate the lunar new year by dancing for the Shinto gods and goddesses at shrines (Yasaka for Gion Kobu, Gion Higashi, Miyagawacho and Pontocho; Kamishichiken celebrates at Kitano Tenmangu) and dressing up and performing skits (obake). A special privilege for senior maiko–and junior maiko, if their okaasan allows it–is wearing hairstyles they normally can’t wear the rest of the year. The exception to the rule is Pontocho, whose maiko wear these hairstyles, excluding fukiwa and tayū styles, before their sakkou period. For this year’s Setsubun I decided to put together a list of these hairstyles.



Clicking on the name of the hairstyle will redirect you to the photo’s source. Much of the information on the styles comes from ShotaKotake’s nihongami tutorials on DeviantArt. I highly recommend checking them out; they have information on a range of traditional hairstyles for men and women.

Finally, a special thank-you to @missmyloko, who edited this post for me!

Osome

This one is typically worn only by junior maiko, but occasionally senior maiko may wear it. It can be worn with or without miokuri (curled strips of ribbon) attached under the mage (”mass of hair”, what we might call the bun or topknot). Tayū may wear a larger version of this style. This style was mostly likely invented by a courtesan with the same name.



Oshidori no Hina

Originally developed from the yuiwata style, this hairstyle is supposed to resemble the plumage of a young male Mandarin duck. It was popular for new wives in Kyoto and Osaka during the Meiji (1868-1912) and late Edo Period (1600-1868).



Oshun

Kikugasane

A version of the shimada-mage, similar to the yuiwata hairstyle, created in the late Edo Period (1600-1868) to early Meiji Period (1868-1912). This woman runs a wonderful traditional hairstyle and clothing blog. Check it out to see more hairstyles!



Osafune

It can be worn with or without a piece of cloth wound through the mage.

Fukiwa

Some say this style was worn by princesses in the Edo Period (1600-1868), others say it was designed as part of a princess costume for the theater. It can be worn with or without miokuri.



Suisha

A version of the tsubushi-shimada, created in the Meiji Period (1868-1912). It can be worn with or without a piece of cloth wrapped around the mage. Supposedly this is one of the most difficult shimada styles to create. It closely resembles the Edo sakkou hairstyle.



Yuiwata

Another version of the tsubushi-shimada, popular with single women in the middle Edo Period (1600-1868).



Marumage

It’s a bit difficult to tell what exactly this hairstyle is, but it most closely resembles marumage, which was worn by women in their mid-20s. Marumage was the most popular version of the shimada hairstyle throughout the Edo (1600-1868) to Meiji (1868-1912) period.

Tayū (courtesan) hairstyles



These are hairstyles or variations of hairstyles worn by tayū or courtesans. They are very ornate, elaborate, and in my opinion absolutely stunning.

Yoko-hyogo

Developed in the mid-Edo Period (1600-1868) from the similar tate-hyogo style. Worn by high-ranking prostitutes–but not tayū–in the Yoshiwara and Shimabara red-light districts. Yoshiwara oiran (the highest rank of prostitute) wear a bigger version of of this style, the date-hyogo. (The original link to the image is missing.)



Tayū ofuku



Tayū ofuku replaces the tegara in maiko ofuku with two different colored pieces of cloth. The mage is also much higher. This hairstyle can take up to 3 hours to create. When maiko wear this hairstyle for setsubun they don’t add the tasseled flower kanzashi seen here.

