Have you ever heard of Naptown? It’s not the newest podcast from the makers of Serial. As one story goes, the ignoble nickname applies to Indianapolis, Indiana, such a boring city in the 1900s that there was nothing to do but—you guessed it—take a nap. For some reason, Annapolis, Marylanders also argue that their city is Naptown. (Why would you fight over that?). Annapolis can have the title, because Indy certainly doesn’t deserve it anymore. Start with the rise of its food scene: You used to have to drive out of 317 to get to a decent restaurant. No more: Jonathan Brooks’ converted-garage-turned-brunch-mecca Milktooth has been landing on national “best new restaurants” lists since it opened in late 2014. It’s even on Traveler’s world’s best list for its creative genius: “Brooks does wild things with Dutch baby pancakes,” says Ashlea Halpern. But Brooks credits Italian-leaning Bluebeard down the street as the “first great restaurant” in the now must-visit neighborhood of Fletcher Place. From here to Fountain Square is something of an indie Indy with locals putting their mark on everything from Asian street food (Rook) to Southern classics (Thunderbird). You can also head up to Broad Ripple for more James Beard-nominated restaurants (try Public Greens)—all you need to do to see Indy like a local is rent a bike, though you may still need a nap after all that eating.