Introduction. My two-year hiatus from writing was not without reason. The day after I published my Oakland Chinatown post, Hong Kong police fired tear gas on thousands of Hong Kong citizens, triggering a historic two-month protest now known as the Umbrella Movement. For the first time in my life, I felt conflicted in my identity. Hong Kongers, in their fight for universal suffrage, sought to delineate an identity separate and distinct from that of Mainland Chinese. But most -- like me --- have roots inextricably linked to China. This clash, for me, was real. And with many Chinatowns currently inhabited by immigrants from Mainland China, I suddenly felt distant, different, and a loss of desire to continue this blog. Given our shared history and background, the divide was a sad state of affairs.

A turn of events occurred -- and quite unexpectedly -- during a four-day stay in Singapore Chinatown. For this, Singapore Chinatown will always hold a special place in my heart. A piece of the past, mouth-watering hawker fare, impeccable cleanliness, and national pride -- who knew that a faraway Chinatown with these unique traits would serve to remind me of who I am?

What Is Singapore? There are so many misconceptions about Singapore, and I admittedly knew little before landing at Changi Airport. An island at the end of the Malay peninsula, some say sea gypsies and pirates inhabited it until British colonization in 1819. By the early 1900s, it had evolved into a popular trading hub for Europe and Asia. Many from Southern China, like Guangdong and Hokkien, fled here for a better life. Sadly, they found jobs only as coolies, hawkers, and indentured servants. Working endless hours, some gave their earnings right back to gambling and opium dens.

To understand the history of Singapore Chinatown and its first settlers, a visit to the Chinatown Heritage Center located on 48 Pagoda Street is imperative. In an audio tour narrated in both Cantonese and English, I walked through a three-story Chinatown SRO (single room occupancies) that portrayed the homes of these early residents. This two-hour experience transported me back to Singapore Chinatown in the 1920s through the 1950s. My throat grew tight as each exhibit reminded me that my privileged life -- like that of many second-generation overseas Chinese -- came at a price.