eBay Bluetooth Streaming Box DIY and Reveiw



What you will need:

Bluetooth Box



Or This



Optional but recommended materials:

Add a circuit fuse tap

Crimp connectors



Tools needed:

Plastic trim tools

Philips screw driver

T-20 Screw driver (Optional)

Crimp Tool (Optional)

Laptop with NCSExpert (For cars without factory CD Changer)

Coding Cable (For cars without factory CD Changer)



DIY:



Take your plastic trim tool and pry the climate controls away from the dash.







Remove the two connectors from the climate controls.







Remove the two Philips head screws under the radio and pull out the head unit from the dash.







The main connector on the head unit has a tab on the top you push down and pull pack to remove.









To connect the box to the car we are going to tap into the MOST circuit coming into the head unit. Remove the MOST connector from the head unit harness and remove the light in wire which is the one with the black shielding on it.



Here is the wiring diagram







Take one side of the orange MOST wires that came with the box and push out the little blue holder in the center of the connector. Pull out both of the MOST cables from the connector. Take the light in cable that you removed from the head unit harness with the orange wire leading into the box and use the included junction box to join them together. I lost the cover for the junction box so I electrical taped over the junction. It looks ghetto but it works.







You can see all of the MOST connectors have little arrows that show which side is light in or light out. If you mix one of these up the radio will not work.







Take the light out orange cable and stick it back into the head unit MOST connector.







The GROM Audio install video is helpful to get a under standing of what you are doing.







Watch until 2:35



To power the box I recommend using a fuse tap into the glove box fuse box. I installed my tap on fuse 2 which is 5 AMP going to the head unit. Push the power wires out from the pass side on the center console and then remove the two T-20 screws that hold the panel from underneath the glove box. Push the wires up into the fuse box area and then reinstall the panel. Attach the positive to a switched power source(I used fuse 2) from the fuse box and then ground it out on a bolt in the dash. I crimped on a loop connector and slid it on a large torx bolt holding up the dash support bar. You can also tap into the power and ground from the head unit wiring but I hate modifying factory wiring. Do not use the cheap wire taps that are included in the kit and use some Posi Taps.







If you do not have hands free calling in your car you need to run the included microphone somewhere. I had the non MOST version of this box in my E36 and I had the mic behind the rear view mirror. To remove the pillar trim, pry off the airbag emblem and then there is a torx screw holding it down. My car already has hands free so I didn't need to do this. If you have hands free calling you will need to turn on dip switch 4. I ran a type C cable from the box out the side of the center console. The one I had is a bit short so I would buy a cable longer than one meter. I would like to find a way to retain the factory aux connection but add a USB port from the box next to the factory aux.







Just shove the box into the hole behind the climate controls and button everything back up. Make sure the fiber optic cables are not pinched in any way. If you car already has a CD changer in the trunk then you are all done. Just change the radio to the CDC option. Mine was only pre wired and needed to be coded.







Coding:



I added $672 and removed $694 to the 2URAD, CAS and FRM.



Set up NCS Expert Normaly





Hit VIN/ZCS/FA







Enter FA







Chose E89







Add $672 remove $694







Process ECU







Write FA to the CAS and FRM. Then factory code the 2urad module.



You need to repeat this for all three modulus. If you did it right your head unit should have the CDC option and you are all done.











Bluetooth off my phone sounds comparable to a CD. Steering wheel controls work fine. I can stream music from Apple Music and Tune in. I can't comment on the calling function of the box since I don't need to use it. If you knew what you were doing and have a coding laptop ready to go this install should take maybe an hour. Due to the poor documentation this took me a full day of screwing around to finally get it working. But this box is great and I am glad I don't have to drop 1k on a Dynavin N7 or a I drive retrofit to have good Bluetooth audio.







Demo Video:





I am able to connect to both the factory Bluetooth calling and the Bluetooth audio at the same time.



Who wants to buy a slightly used tuni adapter?





Update 6/15/18: I did a full CCC iDrive retrofit and the streaming box works as it should with the new setup. Under $500 and the retrofit is worth it if you are non iDrive from factory. This install requires computer skills and knowledge of how MOST works. If you can install an aftermarket head unit and install Windows from scratch you should be able to do this DIY. This was done on a 06 330i with the professional head unit, Hands fee phone and Logic 7. This box is compatible with idrive or Professional head units only. Installation will vary slightly between head units.Add a circuit fuse tapCrimp connectorsPlastic trim toolsPhilips screw driverT-20 Screw driver (Optional)Crimp Tool (Optional)Laptop with NCSExpert (For cars without factory CD Changer)Coding Cable (For cars without factory CD Changer)Take your plastic trim tool and pry the climate controls away from the dash.Remove the two connectors from the climate controls.Remove the two Philips head screws under the radio and pull out the head unit from the dash.The main connector on the head unit has a tab on the top you push down and pull pack to remove.To connect the box to the car we are going to tap into the MOST circuit coming into the head unit. Remove the MOST connector from the head unit harness and remove the light in wire which is the one with the black shielding on it.Here is the wiring diagramTake one side of the orange MOST wires that came with the box and push out the little blue holder in the center of the connector. Pull out both of the MOST cables from the connector. Take the light in cable that you removed from the head unit harness with the orange wire leading into the box and use the included junction box to join them together. I lost the cover for the junction box so I electrical taped over the junction. It looks ghetto but it works.You can see all of the MOST connectors have little arrows that show which side is light in or light out. If you mix one of these up the radio will not work.Take the light out orange cable and stick it back into the head unit MOST connector.The GROM Audio install video is helpful to get a under standing of what you are doing.Watch until 2:35To power the box I recommend using a fuse tap into the glove box fuse box. I installed my tap on fuse 2 which is 5 AMP going to the head unit. Push the power wires out from the pass side on the center console and then remove the two T-20 screws that hold the panel from underneath the glove box. Push the wires up into the fuse box area and then reinstall the panel. Attach the positive to a(I used fuse 2) from the fuse box and then ground it out on a bolt in the dash. I crimped on a loop connector and slid it on a large torx bolt holding up the dash support bar. You can also tap into the power and ground from the head unit wiring but I hate modifying factory wiring. Do not use the cheap wire taps that are included in the kit and use some Posi Taps.If you do not have hands free calling in your car you need to run the included microphone somewhere. I had the non MOST version of this box in my E36 and I had the mic behind the rear view mirror. To remove the pillar trim, pry off the airbag emblem and then there is a torx screw holding it down. My car already has hands free so I didn't need to do this. If you have hands free calling you will need to turn on dip switch 4. I ran a type C cable from the box out the side of the center console. The one I had is a bit short so I would buy a cable longer than one meter. I would like to find a way to retain the factory aux connection but add a USB port from the box next to the factory aux.Just shove the box into the hole behind the climate controls and button everything back up. Make sure the fiber optic cables are not pinched in any way. If you car already has a CD changer in the trunk then you are all done. Just change the radio to the CDC option. Mine was only pre wired and needed to be coded.I added $672 and removed $694 to the 2URAD, CAS and FRM.Set up NCS Expert NormalyHit VIN/ZCS/FAEnter FAChose E89Add $672 remove $694Process ECUWrite FA to the CAS and FRM. Then factory code the 2urad module.You need to repeat this for all three modulus. If you did it right your head unit should have the CDC option and you are all done.Bluetooth off my phone sounds comparable to a CD. Steering wheel controls work fine. I can stream music from Apple Music and Tune in. I can't comment on the calling function of the box since I don't need to use it. If you knew what you were doing and have a coding laptop ready to go this install should take maybe an hour. Due to the poor documentation this took me a full day of screwing around to finally get it working. But this box is great and I am glad I don't have to drop 1k on a Dynavin N7 or a I drive retrofit to have good Bluetooth audio.Demo Video:I am able to connect to both the factory Bluetooth calling and the Bluetooth audio at the same time.Who wants to buy a slightly used tuni adapter?I did a full CCC iDrive retrofit and the streaming box works as it should with the new setup. Under $500 and the retrofit is worth it if you are non iDrive from factory. Last edited by Nickco43; 02-16-2019 at 04:42 PM ..