The arepa chorriada (pseudo-polenta smothered in melted cheese and onion-and-tomato criolla sauce) here is dense, greasy and unattractive. But before you know it, you’ve scraped the plate. And before you can exclaim how enormous the bandeja paisa combination is, you’ve already sliced into the juicy New York strip, torn off a crisp piece of fried pork and broken the fried egg and mixed the yolk with the beans. And by that time, your mouth is too full to get the words out.