ON A RECENT afternoon in a dusty, half-constructed warehouse in West Oakland, Calif.—a restaurant in progress—brewer Adam Lamoreaux and chef James Syhabout stared down a half dozen perfect slabs of tuna, glistening like rubies: menu planning for their new project, the Dock. One of these slabs was destined for an ahi poke—what would become a signature dish—but which cut? And, more important for Mr. Lamoreaux, what to drink with it? Anywhere else a dish like this would come with a bright Spanish cava or maybe a cooling red-berry Pinot Noir. But Mr. Lamoreaux thought beer, one of his own brews: the dry Burning Oak Black...