I’ve been writing about cider periodically every since my palate was dragged across the barriers that separate wine, cider, and beer in pursuit of fermentation qualities that are actually quite common among the three once you discover natural and wild fermentation. In that pursuit, some of the best I’ve ever had are from Oliver’s Cider and Perry in Herefordshire, England.

But to the point of this tip of the hat, it’s the effect the founder Tom Oliver has had on the beer world that I find most remarkable. At last year’s Beavertown Extravaganza, Oliver set up shop next to Other Half, siphoning off one drinker at a time waiting in line for their amazing IPAs.

Oliver also sat on a panel that weekend with Averie Swanson of Jester King, and Mark Tranter of Burning Sky Brewery to discuss the realities of terroir in both modern and natural cider making, providing a point of view from an orchardist the way a hop farmer, barley grower, or micro-malster might for brewers.

He also produced an exquisite collaboration beer this year, incorporating his perry with a wild ale brewer at Mills Brewing, taking a Lambic-style wort, aging it in cider barrels, and fermenting and aging it with active cider yeast (on lees). The results were spectacular. This year, he likewise made a lovely Saison and perry blend with Brew by Numbers.

As if to cap it all off, at the afterparty for the Beavertown Extravaganza, the room was full of tired brewers. Perhaps they were equally as tired of drinking wonderful beers all day, opting instead to dance and sing with a bottle of Oliver’s Gold Rush #5 in hand, a collaboration cider made with Ryan Burk in the U.S.

Oliver also rebranded this year, partnered with a new, ambitious distributor in London, and lent his voice in resistance to new, misguided legislation in the UK that would harm the category. He’s been busy as all hell.

I’d be hard pressed to name any cider maker who has made more of a case for naturally-fermented, orchard-based ciders amongst beer drinkers, while working to elevate his own category at the same time. Oliver is pulling more than his fair share of weight in both.

—Michael Kiser