Rotting

If there is no particular hurry in removing the stump or if you can camouflage it, rotting is the easiest, cheapest and safest method of removal. You may also consider leaving a tall stump to rot naturally and provide food and habitat for wildlife. Rotting wood is a favorite source of insect food for a variety of birds.

Decaying Wood

The organisms that rot or decay wood are called fungi. Fungi do not possess chlorophyll and consequently must derive food from other sources such as wood stumps. For fungi to live and grow, they must have the proper temperature, moisture, oxygen and food conditions. Food is supplied by the stump or wood, and oxygen is supplied by contact with the atmosphere. For optimum fungal growth, the temperature should range from 50 to 90 degrees F. The wood moisture content should be approximately 20 percent to slightly higher, but not water soaked. These optimum conditions do not exist for long periods, thus stump rotting actually occurs intermittently and decay of the entire stump is a long-term process.

Where we Cut

To enhance decay conditions, the stump should be cut as near ground level as possible, covered with sod and kept moist. If possible, several large holes at least 1 inch in diameter should be bored vertically into the stump. These holes expose more wood and slightly hasten decay. During the first year following tree removal, the organisms that decay the wood tend to be nitrogen-limited. That means that the addition of fertilizer during the first year, especially a high nitrogen fertilizer, will hasten decay. Be careful not to add so much as to cause a fertilizer burn to surrounding plants.

What Happens

The organisms that come along to decay the stump after the first year or so tend to be carbon-limited. That means that adding high nitrogen fertilizer no longer hastens the decay. The alternative is to add carbons (in the form of sugar) to the wood after the first year. Simply add some ordinary granulated sugar through those holes and the process will speed up considerably. Keep in mind that the heartwood of some species such as cedar, mulberry, and locust are naturally durable and will take much longer to decay than softer woods.

As the stump rots, depressions or holes will develop. These can be unsightly and a hazard. You can re-fill these depressions with topsoil as they develop.

Grubbing

The quickest, but unfortunately the most difficult, stump removal method is grubbing – that is, pulling or digging out the whole stump. Stumps from trees smaller than 14 inches in diameter are often not too difficult to remove with this method, but stumps from trees larger or trees with large tap roots such as hickory and pine may be very difficult to remove.

Grubbing Method

The usual method of grubbing is to dig a trench or ditch around the stump from 1 to 2 feet wide and 1 to 2 feet deep. Cut the lateral roots with an ax, grub hoe or mattock. On tap-rooted trees, pry the stump to one side and sever the tap root. Roll, drag, winch or slide the stump from the hole. On large trees it is sometimes helpful to leave a stump 4 to 6 feet tall. This high stump can be used as a lever to break the stump free of the ground and roots. You can re-fill the hole created by the removal of the stump with topsoil.

Burning

Burning has long been an acceptable method of stump removal, but it is the least recommended way to remove stumps. This is because burning under low oxygen conditions, such as those surrounding the underground parts of the stump, creates charcoal that is almost impossible to decompose. If, however, you prefer to burn to remove the above-ground portions of the stump, it is important to check with local fire ordinances before burning. Do not burn stumps near buildings or other flammable materials or where human safety is involved. Because stumps may burn for two to three weeks, it is a good idea to build a temporary fence around them. A trench or fire line around the stump may help prevent the fire from escaping to wooded or grassy areas.

Dry Stumps

Dry stumps, like dry wood, burn the best. Because of its contact with the ground, a stump will never dry completely, but the moisture content will decrease after the tree has been cut and exposed to dry weather for some time.

Depending on the stump size, use a metal can such as a 5-gallon paint can and remove the top and bottom. Now punch 1-inch draft holes in the side and near the bottom. Place the stove on top of the stump (or down over it) and build a fire in it. Kindling may be used to start the fire, but charcoal or coal works better to keep it going. After the fire burns the wood of one part of the stump, move the stove to a new location. Bricks or stones may also be used to build a stove.

Chemical Removers

There is no miracle chemical on the market that dissolves a stump overnight. Some of the more common chemicals offered for sale are potassium nitrate or saltpeter, sulfuric acid and nitric acid. Some chemicals have been ineffective.

Stump Grinders

Many arborists (tree care specialists) or tree removal services have a machine that mechanically grinds the stumps to below the soil line. Also, some equipment rental business rent stump grinders. The process takes only a few minutes but may be expensive. This process leaves a conspicuous hole you can fill with topsoil. Check with your county agent or professional arborist for available services and prices.

Prevent Sprouting

Some trees have a tendency to sprout after being cut. Re-sprouting is not only undesirable from the standpoint of having the tree removed, but it may also slow stump rotting. To prevent sprouting, apply a herbicide to the freshly cut stump. The herbicide should be applied within 24 hours of cutting. Apply the chemical to the area where the bark joins the wood of the stump.

Contact your local county agent or garden center for the proper herbicide.