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If I were to ask you which country in the world has the most pyramids, what would you guess?

Probably, if you’re like me, you would say Egypt. We would then both be wrong. The answer is Sudan.

Sudan’s history is tied to the ancient history of Egypt. Additionally, there were times when the Egyptian seat of power and cultural practices were situated in the heart of Sudan with the Nubians and Kushites. It is the presence of the Nile River, providing the lifeblood and transportation route that has served as a binding thread for the two countries.

Situated next to present-day Karmia and the ancient ruins of Napata is Jebel Barkal, a landmark that dominates the area with its ruined temples and perfectly preserved pyramids. The holy mountain of Jebel Barkal was believed to be the home of the god Amun and the heart of the throne for two lands, Egypt and Nubia.

In the heat of a late afternoon, I set off from my hotel, aiming for Jebel Barkal. It looks close, but the heat is draining. A young boy invites me to hop on the back of his bicycle, so, with both of us laughing, he pedals down the quiet empty street. After six blocks, I slip off the back and give him a high five before he departs.