The Reuben. It’s a love-it-or-hate-it sandwich, and those who love it really love it.

A former co-worker loves the sandwich so much that she gets personally offended when someone calls a sandwich a Reuben and subs the corned beef for another kind of meat or uses slaw instead of sauerkraut.

In that spirit, I’ve sought only true Reubens for this story — corned beef, sauerkraut, cheese and dressing. Extra additions are fine, but those base ingredients must be there.

And though corned beef and cabbage is a more traditional St. Patrick’s Day meal, I’d argue that the sandwich version of the dish is an acceptable substitute.

Here are the nine best versions I found in my travels. Is a better one out there? Please tell me — I’m happy to continue this research.

WARD 6

This is the sandwich that really started my Reuben obsession. There are no surprises or special ingredients here, besides the succulent, house-made corned beef and the restaurant’s own version of thousand island. It’s just the classic, done to perfection. It doesn’t hurt that their hand-cut fries are some of the best in town. $12; 858 Payne Ave., St. Paul; 651-348-8181; ward6st-paul.com

EMMETT’S

The 695 Brick Pressed Sandwich is like a Reuben on steroids — with pepperoncini added to the kraut, sriracha to the dressing and some ale mustard for good measure. It also replaces Swiss cheese with a melty havarti. It’s one of my favorites, but I like spicy food. $12; 695 Grand Ave., St. Paul; 651-225-8248; emmettspublichouse.com

SHAMROCK’S

Another classic version of the sandwich, with thin-cut, house-made corned beef and just the right amount of tangy kraut and dressing. The deep golden, hand-cut fries here are also among my favorites. $10.95; 995 W. Seventh St. St. Paul; 651-228-9925; crshamrocks.com

CECIL’S

Some people consider sacrilege the addition of an extra creamy, sour-cream-based sauce to the sauerkraut in this reuben. I consider it delicious. Cecil’s doesn’t make their own corned beef, but the meat is high-quality and sliced fresh daily in this old-school delicatessen. They even have a vegetarian version. $11.19; 651 S. Cleveland Ave., St. Paul; 651-698-0334; cecilsdeli.com

URBAN GROWLER

I love the pillowy pumpernickel this sandwich is served on. It melds well with the tender, house-made corned beef, which is braised in Urban Growler porter, and the brewery kitchen’s own Russian dressing. $11; 2325 Endicott St., St. Paul; 651-340-5793; urbangrowlerbrewing.com

McCARRON’S

This neighborhood pub knows how to do bar food right, and the Reuben is no exception. The sandwich features slightly sweet, house-made corned beef and all the classic accompaniments — kraut, Swiss and thousand island dressing. $9.99; 1986 Rice St., Maplewood; 651-788-7362; mccarronspub.com

NELSON’S CHEESE AND DELI

I’m embarrassed to say I’d never been in this sweet little deli until I ordered this sandwich, but I’ll be back soon. The corned beef on their Reuben is deli fresh and plentiful, and they definitely don’t skimp on the sauerkraut. I also approve of the one departure this sandwich makes — a horseradishy dressing in place of the usual thousand island. $6.97; 1562 Como Ave., St. Paul; 651-647-1288; nelsoncheese.net

THE LIFFEY

This sandwich is steeped in tradition (and the house-made corned beef contained within). A nice, light caraway rye and perfect griddle kiss complete the package. $13; 175 W. Seventh St., St. Paul; 651-556-1420; theliffey.com

THE DUBLINER