How did this series come about?

Climate change has been an issue for a long time. I think the first article I wrote about climate change was in 2003. I have been aware of how it has affected farmers for years. It kind of coalesced this year because there have been so many examples of violent and unexpected weather. It seemed that, as in all other parts of life, the effects of climate change are escalating much faster than any of us imagined.

How did you approach the series?

Obviously, wine is of minuscule importance in the world, compared to many of the great issues, but it’s a window into farming and agriculture and the natural world. So it’s an opportunity to discuss how farming and agriculture are related to climate change. Most people don’t realize that an enormous percentage of greenhouse gases comes from agriculture, of which wine makes up this tiny part.

What really stood out to you in your reporting?

I think just how much we have to rethink every element of wine, including where you put a vineyard in the world; how you orient it; how you farm it. We never thought about carbon output. Carbon dioxide is a byproduct of fermenting grape juice. Then you get to packaging and shipping wine, which is actually one of the most carbon-heavy elements. It’s really a major re-understanding of all that we have assumed.

How does your understanding of climate change shape your work as a critic?

It’s such a complicated issue, and I feel as if I have to make a deeper effort to understand every manifestation of climate change as it affects wine. I’ve always felt that one of the least interesting things for a wine writer to do is to try to describe how a wine tastes. I feel that even more strongly now.

It kind of encompasses every part of our reality. It’s a microcosm of culture, politics, economics — all of the debates that we have on our front page and that we see play out are also playing out in wine in a smaller way. It has deepened my fascination with it.