In stark contrast is the Sarinah department store, where white skins predominate, buying gifts, many of which would be impounded by Australian customs under CITES regulations. The National Museum features a fantastic collection of artefacts from all over Indonesia, which makes you want to go to Kalimantan, Sulawesi. There are treasure rooms of Ming dynasty porcelain, gold jewellery, carved stone gods, fine weaving [Sumba, my favourite], exquisite beadwork, basketry and beautiful, deadly-looking weapons from Irian Jaya

I got talked into a meal called rusak petis, which was disgusting, especially when I found out it was made of cows' noses, blood and old prawns.

Probably should have asked first.

In those days, there were 2 guides to cheap travel in Indonesia: one was Dalton's handbook; and the other, "Southeast Asia on a Shoestring", by Tony Wheeler, which I think was the first Lonely Planet guide. This seems to have become quite a successful franchise. It was fairly radical at the time; but bland compared to Dalton's effort. Thanks to him, I took becak rides through the extraordinary districts of Charak and Bungung Recho, in Surabaya. These are vast areas of brothels, catering largely to service personnel from the home base of the Indonesian navy. It's hard to describe the vibe; but it wasn't sleazy. By day, the girls all hung out together in streets of dolls' house shanties. It reminded me of the old Western film sets. Street performers and minstrels wandered around. At night the muddy, bustling walkways were lit by Coleman lanterns and lined with food stalls and carts of antibiotics. Everyone seemed to be smiling and having a good time. The ride home was surreal, passing miles of closed markets, junkyards and sleeping becak pilots; then cool quiet side streets to the Bamboe Denn.