I reached out to Will Jesse, the owner of one of the Western Addition’s most popular HJ spots.

“We got in on this trend prematurely, and it exploded way sooner than we anticipated,” he told me. He sounded exhausted, and I strained to hear him over the furious slapping in the background. “People start lining up a half hour or so before we open, and the whole day is just nonstop hand jobs ’til we close. We try to get through the line as fast as possible, but people have started Instagramming laboriously staged before and after pics, which only adds to the wait time for everyone else.”