A Visvim presentation necessarily requires mental agility and cultural elasticity. The intricate clothes—men’s and women’s (WMV), though predominantly men’s—are borne out of a serious yen for travel and a pursuit of handcrafted methods. Truly, designer Hiroki Nakamura is in a constant state of travel, meeting with vintage suppliers and visiting obscure artisanal enclaves, forever in search of time-honored techniques at risk of extinction.

Out of this wanderlust and curiosity, Nakamura developed several new men’s jackets for Fall. Among the standouts was a sakiori jacket composed of cotton bits culled from other garments, as the Japanese practiced during the Edo period when only cotton and silk were available. Wool was unknown, as it came later with the Europeans. Which is why, when Nakamura recently saw an antique men’s kimono in a museum, made of wool, he promptly created a similar item out of Harris tweed from Scotland. Also borrowing from tradition, Nakamura padded a men’s dotera jacket with a spongy silk layer in place of down filling, and gave it top-stitching à la sashiko.

Over on the women’s side, designed by his wife Kelsi, kimonos came with large square sleeves, some in a contemporary puffer style, others in a patchwork of velvet, denim, and assorted reused materials. Fabric dyeing, another core principle, ranged from indigo to mud (only in its green beige color)—always vegetable-dyed, always by hand—while a persimmon coating gave nylon a soft, peachy sheen. Leather totes and doctor’s bags were laser-etched with naïf-style depictions of battle between early Americans and native tribes—stick-figure war scenes not unlike those traditionally drawn on buffalo skins and draped over teepees.

And now, finally, the most anticipated news of all—shoes. After all, Visvim got its start with its culty FBT moccasins, which are still produced but often sold out. For Fall, all-weather boots made with Horween Leather Company in Chicago are sure to be a best-seller, particularly with a custom chain-link rubber sole design. Meanwhile, hand-sewn Goodyear shoes made their return, with chunky wood heels for women. The Roland Jogger teased here last season made its promised debut (although one model will only be stocked in the Tokyo store), as did the Huron Moc, a new moccasin-sneaker hybrid in suede and mesh that can fold over like a collar. Nakamura is never short of ideas.