The recipe

Slice 500g of aubergines into pieces no thicker than a pencil and put them in a mixing bowl.

Put 20g of basil leaves and stems into a blender with 150ml of olive oil, process for a few seconds, then scrape two-thirds of it into the mixing bowl. Add a little salt and turn the aubergines over in the dressing to lightly coat them on both sides. Set aside for 20-30 minutes, turning occasionally.

Heat an overhead (oven) grill. Thinly slice 125g of mozzarella. Place the aubergine slices in a single layer on a grill pan, cook under the grill for 15 minutes or until their surface is golden, then turn over and lightly grill the other side.

Divide the mozzarella between the slices of aubergine, tearing the cheese into pieces that will cover roughly half of each aubergine. Place the aubergines back under the grill for a couple of minutes until the mozzarella has started to melt.

Spoon over the reserved dressing and serve immediately, while the cheese is still molten. Serves 2-3.

The trick

If they are to be silky in texture, the aubergines need to be thoroughly but lightly coated in their dressing and left for at least 20 minutes before grilling. Each slice of aubergine requires only a thin slice of mozzarella, just enough to cover half its surface.

The twist

Courgettes make a rather successful stand-in if you have no aubergines. A thick slice of toast or herb-studded focaccia is my go-to accompaniment for grilled aubergines. Others may prefer to serve theirs with thin slices of San Daniele ham or a trio of tiny lamb cutlets, grilled until the fat is crisp and translucent. A dish of potatoes you have steamed, sliced and sautéed until crisp is a thoroughly welcome addition.

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