For three and a half hours we follow the trails forged by wild animals, travelling over a mountainous pass, through dense forest, into the alpine countryside and high up the side of a mountain. It is raining when we arrive at our camp, and there is work to do. Tents have to go up; a fire has to be built; the horses have to be untacked and tied near grass and water; and the food has to be cooked on the fire. The work is divided up. We are all a bit subdued but nobody complains, including Dolly. She helps to gather wood and build the fire while I struggle with a tent. It’s a bonding moment for us all. We are beginning to get on tremendously well. We eat a pasta supper at 10pm and go to bed, oblivious to the whitest of nights.