India’s ubiquitous autorickshaw morphs into a vehicle for high adventure across South India. Notes from Kochi, which leads the trend

The Adventurists describe the autorickshaw as a seven horsepower cake tin. The UK group, along with Cool Earth, a charity, conducts daring Rickshaw Runs across the world in terrain that introduces participants to thrilling adventures and unseen locales. The cake tin does rather well in these challenges.

With its sides open to the elements, a seating that’s comfortable for two, cosy for three and crowded for four, set on three wheels, the rodent-shaped model combines fun and cheap travel. It happily bobs on pot holes and negotiates traffic like the proverbial Artful Dodger. Primarily an Indian means of transport, used more here than anywhere else, it is called the tuk-tuk in Thailand.

Until a few years ago, this mode had a lowly reputation, offering a rumbustious ride that invariably left users with their hearts in their mouths. But not any more. Travellers and tour companies are now using the tuk-tuk for adventure rides, as a means to fun travel and explore the country. It is also loved as a model of rudimentary automobile engineering.

Top of the list

Kochi has been on the map of the Rickshaw Run for many years, with the event either being flagged off from here or as a finishing point.

City-based Kalypso Adventures recently conducted a one-of-its-kind South India Rickshaw Challenge, where guests drove the vehicle on a set route, leisurely exploring the land and its culture.

Vishal Koshy, GM, says, “We had in our minds the idea of experiencing the countryside through a vehicle that’s local and inherently Indian and the guests just loved the idea of driving the rickshaw. Driving through small towns, experiencing the lives therein was well-received; we were trying this for the first time.”

The company purchased seven vintage-style, two-stroke petrol engine autorickshaws. Most of their guests, some with an international driving licence, and others who could afford chauffeur-driven cars, wished to travel thus, said Vishal.

The 10-day trip, that kicked off from Fort Kochi, was as much about driving the vehicle as it was about completing assigned tasks.

Unusual experiences

At dhobi khana, a heritage washerman’s unit, the riders experienced the old-fashioned mode of washing clothes manually and ironing them. At Cheruthoni, they learnt the martial art of kalaripayattu; in Pollachi, they were taught basic Tamil and were then required to decode the script where lay a clue to their onward journey. In Bodimettu near Suryanelli, they lived the auto driver’s life, halting at chayakadas (tea shops) and learning to make the one-metre chai. In Kumily, the guests cooked a meal for themselves, that included locally-grown spices, and finally they drove to Alappuzha, where they spent a night on a houseboat on the lake.

“As a tour company, we believe that this trip gave them an exposure to South India at close quarters, and it was also important to show them, and through them the outside world, that we are back on track after the floods.”

Unlike the Rickshaw Run, which is hardcore adventure, here the guests had a pilot vehicle, a support crew with a mechanic to maintain the fleet of seven autorickshaws. “This mode of using the rickshaw to travel locally is catching on,” says Vishal.

Observing the growing popularity of this mode of travel and toying with the idea of change, Biju MB quit his job with a pharma company and bought an autorickshaw. Last year, he curated ‘Biju’s Tours’, where he offers sightseeing trips, in tuk-tuks, to Fort Kochi and Mattancherry. Hailing from the area and with a knowledge of local stories and lifestyle, Biju gives his clients a fun trip. He shares his growing number of guests with other auto drivers from the area.

Biju MB

“The tuk-tuk tours are very popular. I receive heart-warming comments from my clients and even hefty tips for the unusual outing.”

A majority of Biju’s clients are cruise-ship holidayers, who get off the ship and regale in the rough-and-tumble of the rickshaw ride and the closeness it brings with the people around. To hone his hospitality skills, he learnt German at CUSAT and regularly joins courses offered by Kerala Tourism on being a resource person or tour advisor.

“Until now, the auto driver had a poor image, of being rough and greedy, but that is changing. We now give the tuk-tuk experience to the tourist, which is reasonable, fun and satisfying,” says Biju. His tuk-tuk rides include tickets to monuments, a tender coconut cool drink and a bottle of mineral water. Apart from the regular Fort Kochi-Mattancherry ride, his tour list includes a trip to a fish farm in Chellanam, a coir-making unit and an experience of village life in Kannamaly. His tours are available online.