When William Johnson and Melissa Axelrod first opened Mockingbird in 2013, its creative comfort fare and charming dining room quickly made it an Uptown Oakland neighborhood favorite. All was well until the restaurateurs discovered a disastrous quirk in their lease, which suspended alcohol sales. Now they’ve returned with a new Mockingbird on 13th Street, in the old Ba Vo Vietnamese restaurant space near the Tribune Tower — and much has changed.

The former Mockingbird was cozy, with white curtains, a hutch and knickknacks. The new one aims for modern industrial chic, with Douglas fir flooring and brick walls. Massive V-shaped metal beams starkly divide the bar seating, with its windows open to the sidewalk, and the sparse and contemporary dining room. Bare Edison light pendants dangle from the loft ceiling. Three large paintings by Rick Oginz depict Oakland landmarks — port cranes, the Tribune Tower and a West Oakland cement factory — hang over the wood-slat banquettes. And the mezzanine offers views of the main dining room and concrete V-shaped bar.

Mockingbird’s wine list features local wineries’ off-beat varietals and blends, and the full bar offers craft cocktails, such as a refreshing Oakland Made ($12) with Oakland Spirits Company’s Uptown Dry Gin and Shiso Brandy, with lime and cucumber.

It’s a promising place, but service mishaps began early on. The wrong wines were delivered to our table. Servers’ attitudes were sullen. Our Duck Liver Mousse ($13), presented on a mini-sheet pan, wasn’t cleared until main dishes arrived. In general, servings here are generous; the creamy mousse was the exception, but it was just as well. We left most of it behind, finding it too salty and put off by its dousing in an oil slick.

By contrast, the crispy, thyme-infused Fried Brussels Sprouts ($12) were a delight, with tangy blue cheese and a drizzle of sweet balsamic saba.

We give Mockingbird kudos for artfully plated, gorgeous dishes. If only the flavor matched the impressive visuals and serving sizes. A towering Moroccan Spiced Chicken ($24) dish of breast and thigh meat was piled on a bed of corn and cherry tomatoes. Herbed croutons absorbed the chicken juices, the best part of this otherwise bland dish. We found little trace of the Moroccan spices, the coriander, fennel or cumin, the menu promised. Ditto with Wild King Salmon ($32), the menu’s priciest dish. The crispy-skinned salmon lacked seasoning, and the vinegary lentil salad, with cherry tomatoes and Blue Lake green beans, hit just one acid note.

We had higher hopes for the signature Overnight Pork Sugo ($24), made with Riverdog Farm pig head meat prepared in a long-simmered broth. We actually enjoyed the accompaniment, thick, rosemary-spiked polenta wedges, much more. Our server forgot our french fries side ($6), but once the plate arrived — after the entrees were finished — we devoured the perfectly done Kennebec spuds, dipping them in a tart aioli.

For dessert, the Mockingbird Bread Pudding ($10) beckoned, with its Acme focaccia. But the scant vanilla and nutmeg custard wasn’t enough to avoid a dry mouthful.

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With the move, Mockingbird’s dining room doubled in size, which may explain some of the shortfalls here. Clearly, the restaurant, which opened in June, is still finding its way. We’re hoping this Mockingbird grows into its new nest soon.

Mockingbird

2 stars

Where: 416 13th St., Oakland

Contact: 510-290-0331; www.mockingbirdoakland.com

Hours: Open 11 a.m.-3 p.m. weekdays, 6-10 p.m. Monday-Saturday

Cuisine: New American

Prices: Entrees $16-$32

Vegetarian: Options include a summer vegetable tagine ($19) and vegetable pasta with housemade ricotta ($17).

Beverages: Local wine and beer, craft cocktails

Reservations: Recommended

Noise level: Loud

Parking: Street and garage parking

Kids: No children’s menu, but young diners will enjoy burgers and fries or pasta with tomato sauce.

Pluses: The new Mockingbird showcases all things Oakland, from local spirits to cool decor, plus its signature Fried Brussels Sprouts are back.

Minuses: Some dishes are bland and underseasoned. Service is inattentive.

Date opened: June

Policy: Restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously. The Bay Area News Group pays for all meals.

Ratings: Restaurants are rated on a scale of one to four, with four representing a truly extraordinary experience for that type of restaurant.