Some craft beers are distributed nationally, but many of the best are available only in various local markets. In previous years, we could order beers from different parts of the country. But a recent crackdown on interstate shipping of wine applies to beer as well. So for this tasting, we were restricted to those American brown ales that were available in the New York market.

Even so, our No. 1 beer was the Humboldt Brown Hemp Ale, from Arcata, Calif., which was brewed with hemp seeds. The hemp supposedly adds an herbal component, but for us the beer seemed quite classic, dry with a creamy texture and flavors of malt, chocolate and dried fruits.

No. 2 was Brooklyn Brown Ale, brewed in Utica, N.Y., which had pure, grainy flavors, while No. 3, Bell’s Best Brown Ale from Comstock, Mich., was balanced and subtle. Black Hog’s Granola Brown Ale, from Oxford, Conn., No. 4 on our list, was actually brewed with granola. It was slightly tart, with a tobacco flavor and a refreshing bitterness that prompts the next sip.

Others worth mentioning in the tasting include the rich and creamy Maduro Brown Ale from Cigar City in Tampa, Fla., which was brewed with oatmeal, and the smoky, textured Georgia Brown from SweetWater in Atlanta.

We also had three outliers at the bottom of our top 10, including the Nut Brown Lager from Kelso in Brooklyn — which as a lager rather than an ale really did not fit the category — but we liked its malty, cola flavors; the Durty Mud Season Hoppy Brown Ale from Smuttynose in Hampton, N.H., which was full-bodied and strong at 8.4 percent alcohol but balanced and delicious despite its assertiveness; and the Hazelnut Brown Nectar from Rogue in Newport, Ore., which was on the edge of sweetness, with flavors of buttercrunch candy and hazelnuts.

Aware that our choice was limited and that our tasting was more of a local cross-section than a complete look, Orr mentioned three beers that he wished had been in our tasting: Boffo Brown Ale from Dark Horse in Marshall, Mich., Brown Ale from Newburgh in Newburgh, N.Y., and Brown Ale from Duck-Rabbit in Farmville, N.C.

We all found the tasting stimulating, even if the style supposedly does not inspire much excitement among beer nerds. Well-made, subtly delicious and refreshing are high accolades, as far as I am concerned, and brown ale fits that bill. Fortunately, many brewers still seem to feel the same way.