VEGETABLE torte was not in my repertory until recently. I thought there was something a wee bit fussy about it, something a bit ’80s. But I kept encountering these non-pastry cakes and enjoying them, so it was time to make one of my own.

Getting it right takes a little time. You really must grill (or pan-grill) or roast all the vegetables well  they have to become quite tender  before assembling the torte. Ultimately, you want the vegetables to almost melt together. Grilling is the technique of choice because it gives the vegetables a hint of smokiness.

You can use whatever vegetables you have on hand. Eggplant, summer squash, bell peppers and mushrooms make a nice combination and are easy to grill, but I’ve added layers of caramelized onions, leftover cooked spinach (squeezed dry) and lightly cooked tomato. This recipe is a set of loose guidelines you can tweak at will.

The assembly is fun. Start with eggplant, which provides a nice base, then add the other vegetables in repeating layers, being sure to press down a bit with a spatula now and then to keep the torte compact. If you don’t have fresh basil, use thyme or oregano, but in any case get some fresh herbs in there. Top the torte with bread crumbs and Parmesan  not a thick, gooey layer, but enough to season the crumbs and create a crisp top. Not the fastest or easiest recipe, but worth the work.