There is a famous travel literature reference that refers to "the middle of nowhere." There are a lot of "nowheres" on this planet, but few places in North America could possibly be more off the beaten track to the casual tourist than the Navajo nation. Found in the red rock deserts of the American southwest, the ancient Navajo culture still thrives, but you need to know where to go and how to find it.

The Navajo nation territory covers 71,000 square km of northeastern Arizona , the southeastern portion of Utah, and northwestern New Mexico, or the Four Corners region (including Colorado) as it is better known. This is the largest native territory in the entire United States. It's a long way to get there, as the "middle of nowhere" often is.

The only way to get there is via a rented car. Starting from the New Mexico capital of Albuquerque, the visitor can drive due west on fabled Route 66 and then north. Better yet, head northwest from Albuquerque on Highway 44 straight to Farmington, the closest town to Four Corners, and make that your headquarters. There are several small hotels and motels available here, but not much else.

Situated within the huge Navajo Nation are such tourist attractions as Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Monument Valley, Rainbow Bridge National Monument, and Shiprock. You need a good map or guide to find them. All of this is pure red rock country with wide open desert vistas and photographers will go crazy shooting video and photos of the landscape. Meeting any Navajo people, however, will prove to be a harder task. To do so, visiting a trading post may be the answer.

Traditionally, the Navajo economy was based on sheep and cattle farming, wool and yarn production, blankets and rugs, and jewelry making. Recently, to attract tourism, Navajo artists have been promoting sand painting, feather work, pottery, and handmade arts and crafts. A recent study found that 60 per cent of all Navajo families have at least one member making arts and crafts.

The Toadlena Trading Post on Highway 491 (formerly 666) south of Farmington has been in business since the 1870s, dealing directly with local Navajo weavers. Navajo weaving is a blend of three things: the loom created by the ancient Anasazi people, the weaving techniques of the Pueblo, and wool from the Spanish.

The deserts of Navajo territory are riddled with lost canyons, scattered ruins and old pueblos, and all of them worth exploring, but the Navajo culture is still alive and well at trading posts, the "museums of the desert."

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