Learning the history of the Hell Hole

Next thing we know, we are boarding the Russell Mini Tours bus and meeting our driver and guide, Chris. Although he originally comes from Scotland, he has been in Russell long enough to know it like the back of his hand, which he instantly proves by telling us a bit of history about Russell. We learn about it’s “dodgy” past as being a good stop-off for whalers, escaped convicts and any other cretin to drink beyond redemption and lay with one of the brothels’ floozies, hence the name “Hell Hole of the Pacific”. Despite the rain, it doesn’t really look much like a hell hole now as Chris slowly drives along the waterfront with a beach on one side and rows of well-maintained heritage housing on the other. He points out the “first of” many things in New Zealand: the first Swordfish Club, the first licensed pub and hotel, the first church, the first place where a Christian wedding took place, and the list goes on!

Heritage buildings

It seems Chris knows everything about every house in the small town like when each house was built, many of which were built in the 1800s, sourced from local kauri wood – New Zealand’s largest type of tree that is now highly protected – and with foundations made of whale bones(?!).

Even in the rain, Russell has lots of stunning hidden gems like Tapeka Point beach

Beautiful Beaches to stunning views

After having plenty of time to learn about the different buildings of the main town itself, we drive over the hill to a stunning little golden sand beach called Tapeka Point Beach. We get the best view of it by Chris parking the bus on the boat ramp looking down into the ocean, which seems like a good setting to talk more about the area.

Now that we have seen the literal low points of Russell, we are now driving uphill to one of the areas most famous high points.

A trip up Flagstaff Hill

We take a sharp turn up the road to Flagstaff Hill, where Chris tells us the story of Hone Heke, a famous Maori chief, who cut down the British flag from the flagstaff four times to show objection to the British sovereignty in New Zealand after the Treaty was dishonored (something we learned heaps about at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds yesterday). More flags have been erected and taken down since then.

The bus parks up and we have some time to check out the flagstaff for ourselves, which is not only a significant historical site but it provides some sensational views of the Bay of Islands. The rain stops for a moment for us to soak in the views of the complex coastline of inlets and cliffs, as well as all the boats anchored in the bays.

On the opposite side of Flagstaff Hill is a large sundial decorated with a mosaic map of the Bay of Islands. Here, we get the best views of Russell itself. Plus, we are joined by a couple of weka, cheeky flightless birds who will steal any food they can.