Of course, good steak dinners are never cheap. But that's not the adjective I'd apply to the thick hunks of beef I was served. Pale gray and char-free, despite the 1,200-degree broiler, these cuts were uniformly underseasoned (a rarity at a steak house) and had none of the long, lingering savor I typically associate with prime beef (touted here). Our bone-in filet, a weirdly heart-shaped cut that drooped from the bone with a sinew running through its overcooked middle, was a $46 disappointment. So was the New York strip, a tender-but-tastelessly unsalted slab also ribboned with silver skin. A blue-cheese crust lent a modest zing to the equally underseasoned rib-eye. Only the dry-aged Kansas City strip had a rosy, complex succulence that I'd order again.