This article appears in print in the February 2019 issue. Click here to subscribe.

Open since July 2018, cheery barbecue oasis Central Smoke is a departure in concept for restaurateurs Sophie and Eric Banh (of Monsoon, Ba Bar and Central Smoke’s previous incarnation, Seven Beef). Fans of the siblings’ signature Vietnamese flavors—such as fermented black vinegar and aged fish sauce—will find dishes to love here, too, thanks to executive chef Mike Whisenhunt (formerly of Brimmer & Heeltap).