Tap cultural riches past and present along the Pacific coast and in Chachapoyas – Peru’s ‘other’ Amazon region

Heading north out of the Peruvian capital of Lima lies one of the most diverse regions in South America – both in terms of its topography and its culture.

It was here that, before the rise of the Inca empire in the early 1400s, diverse highly developed coastal societies, including the Moche, Chimú and Wari, evolved and held sway.

Uncovering the past: the pre-Incan, ancient Peruvian sites of Chan Chan nestle in the Moche Valley Credit: Getty

Striking – and, if you time it right, pleasingly empty – archaeological sites around the sun-blessed seaside city of Trujillo attest to the rich legacy of these desert-dwelling peoples.

A leisurely drive along the coast road north from Trujillo towards Chiclayo gives you the chance to explore three superb pre-Incan, ancient Peruvian sites – Chan Chan, spanning 20sq k in the mouth of the Moche Valley, the extraordinary adobe structure of La Huaca de la Luna and El Brujo, dating back to 200BC. And returning to the present, you’ll also get the chance to spend some time quality on the beach.

In the early 1400s, diverse highly developed coastal societies, including the Moche, Chimú and Wari, evolved and held sway

Note the small tortora reed fishing boats at Huanchaco – a typically Peruvian tangible connection from the present day with the storied past.

Inland are two of Peru’s most exciting, yet still largely undiscovered, attractions. The Huayhuash mountain range, which straddles Ancash, Huánuco and even the edges of Lima department, is a magnificent glacier and snow-topped offshoot of the Andes – perfect for hikers in search of a new adventure.

Here, at the Unesco-listed Chavín de Huántar, is one of the earliest pre-Columbian sites, a sacred and residential hub for yet another native Peruvian culture.

Cloud warriors

Just north of the high range, centred around the town of Chachapoyas, the Amazonas region has a different feel to the riverine south and jungly northern Amazon. It’s more mountainous, suited to hiking rather than to cruises or boat trips, and lends itself to a winding, off-radar road trip. The region takes its name from the Chachapoya people, known as “cloud warriors” by the Inca, who eventually ousted them.

Breathtaking: the imposing site of Kuelap is nicknamed the “Machu Picchu of the North”

The historical centrepiece of the region is the imposing site of Kuelap, nicknamed the “Machu Picchu of the North”. The walled citadel, built between the 9th and 12th centuries – sits on top of a limestone ridge almost 10,000 feet high. A major settlement of the Chachapoyan culture, it is visually breathtaking – with mist drifting around the steep cliffs and condors wheeling overhead.

A cable-car service, which opened in 2017, has made access to the site much simpler and in just 20 minutes, but there are plenty of opportunities to ramble around the site and set off on a longer walk down to the neighbouring town of Tingo.

Mighty falls

Seventy miles north of Kuelap – a three-hour drive – are the Gocta Falls. Only “rediscovered” in 2002, this perennial twin-drop waterfall is a breathtaking 2,531 feet high, with a ‘lower’ tier that is more than four times the height of Niagara Falls, its waters tumbling into the Utcubamba river, which in turn feeds the mighty Marañón, an Amazon tributary.

Force of nature: the perennial twin-drop waterfall is a breathtaking 2,531 feet high

Accessed via a short walk through a deep green valley dotted with cane plantations, it’s a wondrous sight to behold – and it is never crowded.

The best way to access Huayhuash is arriving first to the city of Huaraz in the Ancash region. For Chachapoyas, take a flight from Lima to Jaen and then journey by car to Chachapoyas, a trip of around four hours.

A cool vibe

Further north, swerving to the coast, and out beyond the vastness of the Sechura Desert, lies Piura. Famed for its seafood ceviches and chifle – fried, crunchy plantain – it’s where limeños take their beach holidays.

Máncora, the cosmopolitan hub, has become a magnet for Brazilian and Ecuadorian surfers and has a cool vibe – part-hippie, part-hipster – that makes it the ideal spot for some downtime when you are done exploring the high passes and archaeological riches of the Peruvian north.

To find out more about the richness of Peru, visit perutherichestcountry.com or peru.travel