Porters are deceiving. They show dark richness in the glass, but on the palate, the beers are refreshingly dry, not heavy, and can harmonize with more foods than a fruit-forward cabernet. Every match is welcome, from a plate of briny oysters to a rack of ribs rimmed with char. If the dish mirrors some of the beer’s subtle notes of chocolate, coffee, spice, toast and smoke, all the better. I roasted a good-size trout seasoned with soy sauce — another flavor that showed up in the beers — and stuffed it with toasted bread crumbs. A healthy splash of porter also went into the pan to make a sauce. The fish can be readied for roasting well in advance. And the recipe can easily be doubled, serving four or more for a dinner party.