Now, the problem with just using the shower curtain for the box is that the color of whatever is behind it will bleed through. Now, this would not be a problem if I were using it on top of a white carpet, but I have it setup on top of a plywood workbench with a orange back. To that end, I installed a removable reflective layer for the bottom and backside of the box to keep the background as neutral as possible. It also doubles as a way to slightly reinforce the frame, and to set whatever object you're photographing on top of.



Step 1: Cut the foamboard into four pieces

I forgot to photograph the second part of this step, but you need to cut the board into two large squarish pieces, and two thin rectangles. Dimensions are as follows:

2 17.5" x 15" pieces

2 2.5" x 15" pieces

This is pretty easy to do. Just measure 2.5" from the top of the long side, and cut once across. Then cut straight down the middle, 15" from either side.



Next, you will take the two skinny pieces and tape them to the short sides of one of the two large pieces. Leave about 1/4" gap between the pieces to act as a hinge. This will be the back piece. The flanges are to prevent the background from bleeding through, as the light will be least bright near the back edge. (See picture #4)



Now, here is where the velcro will first come into play. The velcro will hold the posterboard in place, and prevent it from shifting or falling over. You will need four 1.5" long pieces. This is kind of hard to explain in words, so please refer to the photos. Place them on the left and right pipes of both the bottom and back, right next to the joint pieces(see pictures). It doesn't really matter whether you put the hook or loop side on the pipes, but I'd suggest using the hooks for the bottom pipes, and the loops for the backdrop (or vis-versa), just to prevent getting the two foam pieces mixed up. Now place the matching pieces on the foamboard, and attach. I really shouldn't have to explain that, but you never know.