Survival guide: What you need to know about living in Midland

A dust storm surrounds downtown Midland on June 29, 2013. A dust storm surrounds downtown Midland on June 29, 2013. Photo: James Durbin/Reporter-Telegram Photo: James Durbin/Reporter-Telegram Image 1 of / 1 Caption Close Survival guide: What you need to know about living in Midland 1 / 1 Back to Gallery

Whether for school or for work, Midland is in the midst of a population boom. Just recently, the Reporter-Telegram reported that the workforce surpassed 100,000 and that the city's population is growing at up to a 4 percent annual rate. That’s fast for a city the size of Midland. And for those newcomers, well, Midland can be somewhat of a shock. Just ask many of the editorial staff who have come from other cities both big and small.

And so we did.

This year alone, our editorial staff has seen six reporters come in from different parts of the country and state. We also queried a handful of people from other organizations. We’ve compiled a lengthy — but fun — list of those little things we wish we had known. Now we impart our knowledge (in no apparent order) to other newcomers.

— Practically every shop or restaurant has a “Now hiring” sign, and yes, posted hourly wages for fast-food establishments may have you reconsidering your career options. Part-time jobs can easily net you some extra cash, but it could also help fill up the time if you don’t yet know many people in Midland.

— Restaurants run out of items — a lot. This doesn’t mean you can’t expect a ham and cheese on honey oat bread from Subway, but as a favorite of one of our contributors, he’s learned to not be surprised if one of those items isn't available.

— Don’t try to drive down Wadley Avenue when it rains ... or Garfield Street ... or Illinois Avenue. Actually, just stay home because almost every road floods. You’ve been warned.

— Know that the pumpjack is a muse for fine art.

— When one writer’s car overheated, after pulling over, a random stranger pulled up to see if all was OK. For big-city people, that could almost warrant a 911 call. But here, Midland folks are genuinely compassionate, helpful and welcoming.

— People will ask you where your church home is. You can choose to look at this as charming or intrusive, and it’s probably both. Chalk it up to local flavor for conversation. Just consider your response, or it could lead to lengthy conversation. Looking for a church? There are more than 150 covering (by last count) 34 denominations.

— Rent truly is an arm and a leg. Donating an organ might get you through next month, but some complexes do have assistance programs for those who qualify based on their salary. Sometimes, renting an apartment has to happen fast if you’ve taken a job. Try hard to see the apartment first or you could be throwing down $1,000 a month for a sketchy space and locked into it for a year.

— There are lots of volunteer opportunities. The quickest way to make friends and to overcome loneliness is to get involved. We’ll put you to work mentoring kids, decorating for Christmas or handing out food.

— Sometimes Midland is lucky enough to experience both a dust storm and rain at the same time, creating the very unpleasant experience of muddy water being dumped from the sky.

— On that note, unless you’re willing to regularly wash your car, you might as well just accept that it’s going to be perpetually dirty.

— Yes, people do pay $3-plus for a gallon of gas and sit in fast-food drive-thrus for half an hour — for fast food. The line will even extend to the streets causing traffic — for fast food.

— H-E-B is the go-to grocery store in Midland. This means the store is always busy. Always. So much so that H-E-B isn’t just the place for grocery shopping, but also a social spot. Invariably, people are having conversations in the middle of the aisle. You will likely become one of these people. There are down times to H-E-B, but they will never seem to coincide with your schedule. Just accept it. But also, don’t rule out the three Albertsons, Super Mercado or Fiesta for grocery shopping.

— You’re bound to run into your co-workers, pastor, mayor, etc. at least once when you’re out and about. Even on those quick trips to H-E-B when you run in for just one thing ... in your PJs.

— As the sun sets, Midlanders head out for strolls around the Wadley Barron Duck Pond on A Street, where ducks swim lazily across the peaceful scene. In its own quiet way, this is Midland at its best.

— Be prepared for ice. Yes, we live in West Texas, but we do get those freak winter storms where Loop 250 actually freezes over and they’ve had to shut it down. We’ve warned you.

— Summer Mummers is over for the season, but you will no doubt hear about it soon after getting here. You will try to figure out exactly what it is. You won’t. The annual melodrama has a 66-year tradition and is staged at the downtown Yucca Theatre. There’s popcorn, heroes, villains, strip teases, comedy, and it’s a must for any and everybody living in Midland.

— Speaking of, the Yucca. It’s a gorgeous stage house in downtown with vintage appeal. The theater hosts Mummers, concerts and comedy.

— The Midland County Public Library is impressive, but the Centennial branch is the feather in its cap. With modern design, the location is a testimony to the library’s place in today’s modern society. Centennial not only features a high-tech approach, it also hosts art, historic and educational exhibitions, concerts, video game and cosplay events and of course, free Wi-Fi.

— The library has no late fees. We know, right?

— It is the desert. If you are accustomed to verdant fields bursting forth with their seasonal bounty, you better buy a colorful wall calendar. Midland really and truly is the desert. But don’t be discouraged. The desert can be quite beautiful. Unusual wildlife, dry heat, and incomparable sunsets are just some of the compensations. And if you really find yourself at your wit’s end, visit Cafe at the Gardens, a restaurant set in the middle of a garden center with fountains, coi fish, and lots and lots of green!

— Midland has undergone an influx of people and natives are bewildered by all the people and the traffic jams. Big city folks need not worry. Traffic here just means getting across town in 10 minutes instead of seven.

— Try the sweet breads at Martinez Bakery, just not all at once. Do not miss their polvorón cookies or the gingerbread pigs that are baked onsite. And have a cold glass of milk handy for dunking.

— There is this thing between Midland and Odessa. Don’t try to understand it. Just nod your head, chuckle, be glad you live in Midland and move on.

— Embrace the football fanaticism, because it’s quite something to see and feel. The buzz of it is practically palpable.

— Driving past a school when it lets out can result in a too-long traffic jam. Consider alternate routes.

— If you want to stand out from the crowd, check out The Cat’s Meow, a vintage shop on Andrews Highway. The proprietor, Steven Porterfield, is an expert in the bygone days of more elegant looks. He also specializes in vintage jewelry and has a great collection of far-out ties for gentlemen.

— Yield signs don’t mean yield; they mean stop, especially off the loop. You will try to change that. You will honk your horn. You will not win.

— Athletic types can partake in not-so-usual sports via the Texas Cricket Club, West Texas Adult Kickball or the Basin Roller Derby Club. Additionally, there are two area skate parks: Beal Park and on the grounds of Rock the Desert.

— There is a public radio station here, so NPR is not lost.

— Explore the eateries off Florida Avenue. People may dissuade you from the “south side,” but some of the most delicious food can be found there with a side helping of character.

— Want to skip the lines at Starbucks? If time allows, head to the Hilton DoubleTree downtown. Inside the lobby, Steam serves up a reduced menu of Starbuckian coffee drinks.

— You might ask yourself, “How did that sand get into my apartment?” Wind storms carry sand to from the desert into the nooks and crannies of your dwelling. Also, don’t bother dusting or sweeping.

— It may seem like CrossFit has taken over Midland, but if you still like to exercise with a good, old-fashioned run, you’re in luck. Fall is race season here, and there’s likely to be a 5K or 10K every weekend from now until Christmas.

— Foodies can find local and artisanal items at the downtown farmers market that is weekly during the summer and then monthly in other seasons.

— The term “turn signal” does not exist in Midland.

— Some people live for the weekends when they can road trip it out of Midland, and wisely so. Midland is two hours from Lubbock, three hours from Marfa, and a few hours from Santa Fe, Roswell, Dallas, Austin.

— If big city hipsters make it to Midland, they may not find their vinyl records, kitschy eyewear or vegan bacon, but they can find Topo Chico mineral water at any of the Mexican markets.

— Midland is big on music festivals. Don’t expect the likes of Bonnaroo or Coachella, but locals and beyond come out for CrudeFest, Texas Thunder, Tall City Blues Fest and Christian music festival Rock the Desert.

— Remember all those chain restaurants in the city from which you moved? You either frequented them or dismissed their corporate culture. You will miss those immediately when discovering they aren’t in Midland. Taco Bueno, Boston Market, Panera and others are all just wishes many hearts make but never come true.

— Locals will tell you not to wait to get sick when finding a doctor. The same goes with dentists. Try to establish those ASAP so that when the time comes and that fever or toothache hits, you can be get an appointment in a few days rather than a few weeks.

— Are you fashion forward but also destitute after your rent check clears? The best kept secret in Midland is the thrift shopping. If you have far-out taste that hews more to the West Village than Wadley, worry not. As you may have heard, there’s a lot of money floating around this town, which means a lot of grand dames buy fabulous duds and give them away when they tire of them. You definitely have to scour, but you can find some amazing pieces.

UPDATE:

A year later, we had to see just how well our survival guide held up. For the most part, it did, but there was also an economic downturn. Ripple effects of that brought rent prices down and right now, even gasoline.

Midland still moved forward.

Much has still changed between then and now even including our staff. So we posed the questions to some of our newer reporters with enough tenure to impart their own tips on how they are surviving (and thriving) in their Midland experience.

— To be honest, we were hoping this would be an undiscovered gem. Yes, we're selfish but much of Midland has discovered that Market Street has become quite the destination for grocery shopping but also for it's cafe. The salad bar, the hot foods menu, the sandwiches and even the drink station make Market Street far more than just a supermarket stop, it's a dining destination with delicious food and great prices. There's even ample sitting space with free wifi and outlets to charge devices.

— Legally, yellow lights mean to slow down. In Midland, some think that means speed up. If you’re waiting at a red light, don’t jump on the gas the minute it turns green. Chances are, someone will still be coming through after running their yellow light and t-bone you.

— Food options have become more diverse as we've seen with new eateries on the horizon. Hight Foods, Cookhouse Catering food truck and Mac's Bar-B-Q bring independent spirit to quality foods. Hight Foods offers an incredible pho on Thursdays. Cookhouse's monster brisket grilled cheese sandwich is a guaranteed food coma and Mac's meats are delicious but that hatch chile mac and cheese is sublime. And we await more restaurants as they continue to move into Midland.

— Do not grace the door or drive-thru of a fast food restaurant during the school year lunch hour. All of our public and private schools allow students to go off campus and it is truly a madhouse. Also, watch your driving as students are often crossing major streets.

— Apartment prices have come down. Haggle with your landlord if you're in a lease. For those moving in, check around for specials at local complexes and try to negotiate your rent. Building owners want filled apartments more than anything.

— Unless you just want to deal with the crowds, save mall shopping for the weeknights. The mall fills up on weekends not just with locals, but all those from smaller towns making the trip in. Trust us thought. Clothes or whatever you need are not worth the weekend trouble.

— Head to Reddit and give the subreddit Midessa a gander. Both fascinating and helpful, the site is possibly the truest sounding board for much of Midland (and Odessa).

— We heard the collective sigh of relief and rejoicing from all Midlanders when Target announced they were adding a Starbucks.