Piccalilli is the most strange and wonderful of British condiments. Its mere neon-yellow presence evokes a world of tea cakes, tennis whites and summers spent pickling allotment vegetables to the sound of the cricket on the radio. But it is also a reassuring reminder of the love affair between Britain and India (from where the recipe was inspired) that is still played out in our kitchens more than 400 years after it first started.

Piccalilli spiced rice

The vegetables are best chopped small for this, so be prepared for a reasonable amount of chopping. The basic large red chillies, which are often mild, are perfect here, rather than the hot bird’s-eye chillies.

Prep 30 min

Cook 40 min

Serves 4

1 large cauliflower (800g net weight)

Rapeseed oil

Salt

300g basmati rice

1½ tsp black mustard seeds

1½ tsp cumin seeds

1 large red onion, peeled and diced

350g carrots (about 4 medium ones), peeled and finely diced

3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

2 large red chillies, finely sliced

200g green beans, cut into 1-2cm pieces

4 tsp mustard (Colman’s, jarred) [See footnote]

2½ tbsp lemon juice

½ tsp turmeric

Heat the oven to 200C/390F/gas 6. Line two trays with foil and break down or cut the cauliflower into bite-size florets no greater than 2cm across the widest part. Put in a single layer across the trays, drizzle with oil and sprinkle with a little salt, then roast for 15 minutes, or until crisp, turning once halfway.

Meanwhile, wash the rice well under cold running water until the water runs clear, then leave to soak in a pan of hot water for five to 10 minutes. Drain, cover with cold water, bring to a boil and cook for 10 minutes. Drain, leave in the sieve over the pan, cover with a clean tea towel, and set aside.

Heat three tablespoons of oil in a large, nonstick frying pan and, when hot, add the mustard and cumin seeds. Let them sizzle and pop, then add the onion and carrots. Cook for 10 minutes until both are starting to caramelise, then add the garlic and chillies, and fryfor three minutes, until the raw smell of garlic disappears. Add the beans, cook for three to four minutes until tender (but still crunchy), then add the mustard, lemon juice, turmeric and one and three-quarter teaspoons salt. Stir in the roasted cauliflower, then slowly fold in the rice until everything is well mixed and the rice is a uniform yellow.

Check the rice for mustard, lemon and salt, and adjust as you wish. Serve with a dollop of non-dairy yoghurt and some mango chutney on the side.

• This footnote was added on 17 August 2018: after publication of this recipe the Guardian learned that Colman’s in its prepared form contains wheat.