Hollywood bad girl Lindsay Lohan's first collection as artistic advisor for Emanuel Ungaro was a "disaster", the founder of the French couture house said here, local press reported.

"Lindsay Lohan's collaboration was a disaster," the designer said during a meeting on Monday night with the public at the international film festival in Estoril, near Lisbon.

"I am furious but I can't do anything about it," fumed the designer, who emphasised that he no longer had any contact with the house which bears his name since he left in 2005. The house now belongs to an American investment company.

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Lohan, 23, whose drug habits and drink-driving conviction turned her into paparazzi fodder and wreaked havoc with her acting career, was named official muse to the prestigious house alongside Spanish designer Estrella Archs in September.

Their first catwalk collection together unveiled in Paris in October was panned by the international fashion press.

Ungaro said he regretted that the fashion house he started "is in the process of losing its soul."

"That happens to a lot of designers. We were the creators and patrons, responsible for the creation and destiny of our houses. But when we gave up our houses, we gave up our souls."

Ungaro has seen a merry-go-round of chief designers come and go since Emanuel Ungaro hung up his scissors.