In conversation, Remy is slyly funny and soberly thoughtful — she pulled out a volume of the philosopher Jean Baudrillard so she could quote him at length. After a decade on the fringes of the indie music world, her previous release, the 2018 album “In a Poem Unlimited,” was something of a breakthrough: On the surface — lush hooks and slinky disco beats — it was her most accessible record yet, until you listened to what Remy was actually singing.

“I was trying to work in that pop form and make those perfect vocals, while saying things that would never be said in that form,” she explained. The songs spun tales of rape revenge, church-related hypocrisy and labor violations (the sax-driven “Rage of Plastics” was partially inspired by the Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire of 1911). On tour, at her merch table, fans could purchase foam middle fingers printed with the title of another “Poem” song, “Mad as Hell.”

Operating within the aesthetic of modern pop music was eye-opening but exhausting. “I learned a lot, but I knew I would never work that way again,” Remy said. “We comped the vocals to hell — so you’re taking one syllable from here and another from there and making them perfect. It was great, though, because now any [pop] music I hear, I know it’s been airbrushed, even when it doesn’t need to be.” She gestured toward the speaker at the noodle shop, where Dua Lipa’s 2016 hit “Blow Your Mind (Mwah)” was playing, as an example of pop perfectionism. “Maybe the note is wrong, but it’s conveying something that goes away when you tune it.”

From her 2012 glam-rock record “Gem” to the girl-group-influenced EP “Free Advice Column,” restless evolution has been the only constant in Remy’s musical universe. “I think you kind of train people to know that you’re going to change, or that you’re not,” she said. The jump from “Poem” to “Heavy Light” is the latest evidence. Recording the new album was a relief, Remy said, because this time all the vocals were tracked live. Still, her voice is a sturdier and more finely expressive instrument than it was on her early records.