I‘ve been playing around with Korean cushion foundation compacts for the past year or so, and I’ve come to the conclusion that (1) they’re very travel-friendly, (2) they’re brilliant for touch-ups but very unsanitary, and (3) Korean cosmetics companies have their marketing strategy down pat!

Koreans didn’t invent BB creams (the Germans did) and they certainly did not invent cushion foundation compacts. Does anyone else remember Almay’s Nearly Naked Touch-Pad line that was around nearly 15 years ago?

The Nearly Naked Touch-Pad was essentially identical. It was a round liquid makeup-soaked sponge packaged in a simple, mirrorless clear compact — you use your own tool to apply. The line-up had a foundation, blush, and bronzer, and it disappeared off the market rather quickly as the people absolutely hated the sponge (a.k.a. “cushion”) concept and the oily ultra glowy finish. Anyway, fast forward more than a decade and the concept is resurfaced by AmourPacific with resounding success, albeit slightly reinvented — the aesthetically pleasing mirrored compact and included puff applicator make the whole concept much easier to embrace! (Actually, adding a mirrored compact isn’t an entirely new idea either! Stila Pivotal Skin Liquid Makeup SPF8 — released more than a decade ago — housed their foundation-soaked sponge in a round mirrored compact that looks almost identical to these “new” cushion foundations!)

I have a love-hate relationship these Korean cushion foundation compacts. I find they’re indispensable as they’re so user-friendly and great for tossing in the bag to touch-up (or apply) SPF and makeup while on-the-go — no caps to twist open, no brush needed, no dirty fingers. IOPE Air Cushion XP Cover (in shade C23) and Laneige BB Cushion Pore Control (in shade 21) are the ones I reach for the most as they give my combination-slightly dry skin a “lit from within” kind of finish without settling into any pores or creases as the day goes on. What I have noticed, though, is that they lack longevity. Priming with a mattifying base and setting it with powder are a bit of a necessity, otherwise, the glowy finish just look like greasy skin after a few hours. The both claim that they’re water, sweat, and sebum-resistant — none of this is true in the slightest! They also feel much heavier on the skin than regular BB and CC.

I just can’t get over how incredibly unsanitary the whole concept is. As the puff applicator cannot dry completely between use when stored in the dark, closed space of the compact, it’s a perfect breeding ground for bacteria! Dipping it into the foundation-soaked sponge and applying it on your (unclean) face, then repeat the process over and over… just the thought of it gives me the shudders! Why some people find it gross to use fingers to scoop out moisturiser, but has no qualms repeatedly dipping a dirty puff into the sponge is quite frankly beyond me. (You can wash the puff, but it’s impossible to sanitise the foundation-soaked sponge!) I know I don’t have to use the included puff, but if I had to use fingers or my own tool to apply then I wouldn’t bother with these cushion compacts, period. (Daiso Puff & Sponge Detergent I featured in my Best Pick review is brilliant for cleaning the puff and BeautyBlender. It removes every trace!)

To be honest, I’m quite glad Japan hasn’t jump on board of the cushion foundation compact train! The Korean ones that are popular worldwide failed to make much impact in Japan beyond Koreatown — Korean makeup trend of fair, dewy glowing skin goes against Japanese women’s preference for ultra-natural, baby-like skin. The small handful of cushions released by Japanese brands didn’t fare better either — they suffered abysmal sales! It seems that Japanese women in general echo my sentiments — interesting concept, but ultimately a passing beauty fad. Essentially, they’re just moisturising sheer liquid foundation in a convenient but unsanitary delivery system.