The American wheat ale is a much maligned member of the average beer aficionado’s vocabulary. Unlike its German or Belgian counterparts, the American wheat ale has started to become synonymous with half-baked, overly-fruity summer ales and macrobrew swill such as Blue Moon (Coors) and Shock Top (Anheuser-Busch). However, there are plenty of American beers which have a more aesthetically pleasing role for wheat, using it to instill soft grainy malt flavors and a smoother, creamier mouthfeel into an otherwise well-crafted brew. Still, sometimes it is hard to separate the wheat from the chaff (so to speak), so I used the opportunity to go on an educational wheat ale spree.

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‘A LITTLE SUMPIN’ SUMPIN’ ALE’ – LAGUNITAS – American Pale Wheat Ale – 7.50% ABV (Eye Choir’s Choice)

Appearance: Poured a somewhat light but very rich golden-orange color with a two-finger, eggshell head. The body is quite clear of any sediment, with a very mild carbonation being visible. 4.5/5

Smell: Very distinctive hop character, with a rich tropical fruit component reminiscent of mango, as well as strong grapefruit and resin aromas. The malt is quite strong-smelling as well, with notes of grainy wheat as well as pungent honey or toffee that is emboldened by a whiff of booze. The yeast adds a light earthy component which goes well with both the dank hops and robust malt. Extremely complex, but doesn’t come off as unusual despite how unique it is. 4.5/5

Taste: A quick punch of moderate bitterness brings out spruce wood and orange rind, with a quick touch of wildflower sneaking in as well. However, a mild to moderate sweetness slowly builds up, though the malt presence it brings emphasizes less of the toastedness from the aroma and more of the raw doughy wheat. The finish shows this off especially, with a touch of mineral acidity and stone fruits backing it up. This brew has everything: dynamics, complexity, and balance. 5/5

Mouthfeel: Medium body, with quite a creamy mouthfeel that is pierced by occasional bursts of carbonation and a mild to moderate alcoholic heat which provides a sense of over-ripeness to the tropical fruits. Even in the finish, the thickness of the mouthfeel and the graininess it helps evoke helps set this beer apart from a simple pale ale or IPA. 4.5/5

Overall: Has complexity that helps you find something new in every sip, though no aspect of it is too overwhelming or overtly unusual. A great beer that takes the most it can out of wheat without being overburdened by the simplicity of the typical wheat ale style. 4.5/5

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‘WAILUA WHEAT’ – KONA – American Pale Wheat Ale brewed with passion fruit – 5.40% ABV

Appearance: Poured a highly transparent, light gold color with a one finger, white head. No carbonation or sediment can be seen in the totally transparent body. 3.5/5

Smell: Malt contains slightly musty cereal and wheat bread notes with some faint tropical fruit esters and what I assume to be passion fruit. This is balanced by lightly herbal and citrus hop flavors. Overall, not much to say other than that it is very mild and simple. 2.5/5

Taste: Surprisingly only mildly to moderately sweet, which pairs interestingly with the tropical fruit flavors, and lets in some vague raw leafiness. Mild to moderate tartness amplifies the juiciness in the passion fruit, and along with a mild bitterness creates a fresh, if a bit short, finish. 3.5/5

Mouthfeel: Very light body, with moderate carbonation which has that nice crisp kick, though it is still fairly smooth and even a little creamy. No alcoholic heat. 3/5

Overall: Light and straightforward, though inoffensive and fairly well-balanced. Passion fruit seems to match the aesthetic well enough, but seems a little bit arbitrary. 3/5

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‘LONGSHOT BEER FLOWER WHEAT’ – SAM ADAMS – American Pale Wheat Ale brewed with hibiscus – 5.80% ABV

Appearance: Poured a pale light orange with a one-finger, faintly yellow head. There is an almost imperceptibly slight haziness as well as some moderate carbonation. 3.5/5

Smell: Mild wheat graininess which is characteristically paired with a slightly earthy sourbread yeast note. Floral character is strong, both from the hibiscus flowers as well as slightly herbaceous hops. Some citric fruit flavors as well as those reminiscent of pears or melons tie everything together neatly. Reasonably well-balanced for something so unconventional in such a mild style of beer. 4/5

Taste: Immediately mildly tart and bitter, which brings a medicinal perspective to the floral notes, as well as some dry, tart mineral-like quality from the yeast. However, there is a mild underlying sweetness, which brings out corn syrup-tinged honey malt as well as a deceptively strong strawberry note. The finish fleshes out the dry, almost astringent tartness. Definitely different, though the perfume-like hibiscus and fruit come on a bit strong and don’t quite mesh with the lack of sweetness. 2.5/5

Mouthfeel: Light to moderate body, with a syrupy mouthfeel which gives a jam-like context for the fruit notes. However there is a bold splash of carbonation that helpfully brightens this aspect of the drink. Still, there is an odd mild to moderate alcoholic heat on the finish that is a questionable match for the fresh floweriness. 3.5/5

Overall: Quite unique, with a very detailed combination of hibiscus, light hops and fruity yeast. However, the balance between this and the drier flavors as well as some heavy earthiness could be improved. 3.5/5

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‘SUMMER WEIZEN’ – SMUTTYNOSE – American Pale Wheat Ale brewed with chamomile – 5.46% ABV

Appearance: Poured a brilliant gold with just the faintest highlight of orange and a one finger, white head which quickly dissipates. Neither carbonation nor sediment is visible. 4/5

Smell: Slightly spicy Belgian yeast takes the forefront, bringing out mild lemon and banana notes. This is supported with flowery, spicy, and citric hops, which mix well with the added chamomile. The malt comes in underneath, with a raw bread dough with faint notes of grassy honey. Seems to take a bit from non-American styles, but still identifiably American, especially in the hops. 4.5/5

Taste: Begins with a mild to moderate tartness that highlights the fresh citrus and funky yeast notes. The bitterness is very mild, though the hops’ similarity to the yeast and chamomile flavors help it integrate well. The beer finishes with a mild to moderate sweetness that boils the flavors down to the steady, wheat backbone. Reasonably well-balanced, but lacks the powerful detail found in the aroma. 3.5/5

Mouthfeel: Light body, which is further lightened by a moderate bite of carbonation. Very refreshing and smooth, and not boozy or syrupy in the slightest, though not as creamy as one might expect from a wheat beer. 3.5/5

Overall: Fascinating bouquet, though the taste is unfortunately a little shallow, even if it is a tad unconventional. Still very enjoyable and certainly a quaffable summer beer. 4/5