"Can you recommend an eye cream?" "Has anyone tried retinol?" "WTF is an epidermis?"

Over the past year, I've noticed my group chats with both friends and female colleagues have started to centre on a particular topic: skincare.

I'm clueless about creams and serums, so I've been soaking up their first-hand recommendations. And when it comes to favouring first-hand reviews, I'm not alone.

Skin influencers, or skinfluencers, have become hot property in the online space, with vloggers and Instagrammers gaining cult followings for road-testing products and sharing information, opinions and advice. But not all content makers are transparent about brand sponsorships and product endorsements, and some spout information that is factually incorrect.

So, is it ever safe to trust online influencers about something as individual as skin? And when should we seek out an expert?

We spoke to a dermatologist, a skin Instagrammer who uses her science degree to help her navigate the skin care world and a serious skin-thusiast about where they draw the line, and the essential tips they'd like you to know.

From teen acne to busting beauty myths

Hannah English's fascination with face-based products stemmed from teenage acne.

"I was given one of the books by Paula Begoun," recalls the 31-year-old Melbournian.

"It explained that there are lots of claims [from skincare companies], but often the ingredients don't back them up. That's when I started being a bit more sceptical of the science behind things."

After obliterating her teen acne, Hannah completed a pharmaceutical science degree. Today she works as a clinical researcher doing trials for new drugs.

"Skincare ingredients work the same as drugs, they're substances that change the way your body works," she points out.

"So, I was applying all of my knowledge from uni to my skincare and I started recording my routine on Instagram with notes … and [my profile] kind of grew from there."

Hannah isn't a skincare professional, but she says her "sciencey" posts are founded in data.

"I've still got university access to journal articles, so I do tend to use that or a textbook," she says.

"There is some precision in the language, but generally I try to think about it like I'm speaking to my younger self or one of my girlfriends."

Where do you take your skincare advice from: experts, online influencers or friends? ( Unsplash: Chris Knight )

And through her Instagram presence, she's trying to bust some beauty myths, like the notion that "natural is better".

"It's a logical fallacy — uranium is natural," she says.

"I guess people are afraid of what they don't know, and they think that if something comes from a plant or is minimally processed that means it's healthier, but often, we can refine a plant extract through chemistry and only pull out the most effective parts.

"Resveratrol, for example, is a strong antioxidant that comes from grapes, but if you just put a grape [in a product] it's not going to do anything. If you pull out the molecule that's doing all the work, you'll create a more effective product."

Hannah believes that the cost and accessibility (or lack thereof) of visiting a dermatologist deters people from making appointments, especially when it comes to cosmetic concerns. But she says there can be downsides to only accessing info online.

"If you can google something and find the answer — great. I think a lot of people don't necessarily know how to discern the information, though," she says.

While some skinfluencers are informed, others are less than concerned with the accuracy or ethicality of their content.

"I do see a lot of people repeating misinformation," Hannah says.

"I try and politely comment, but people don't like being told [they're wrong] either.

"So, I just try and focus that energy on fact-checking what I do."

While Hannah often helps followers answer skincare queries, she recommends that people visit a dermatologist for medical skin problems, questions about prescription products, such as higher-dose retinoids, or if they're looking to transform their skincare regime.

Seeking out the science

Chantelle Peterson says she consumes skincare videos for pleasure and education. ( Supplied: Chantelle Peterson )

Like Hannah, medical scientist Chantelle Peterson sought out professional help in her teens to combat acne. Today though, she prefers to get her skincare knowledge from YouTube.

"It's enabled me to be in control of that research, rather than someone in a store telling me."

Chantelle says transparency is a key factor in why she follows certain skinfluencers.

"There are times when they say, 'This product is not necessarily worth your money, you can find things that do the same thing but for less'."

Understanding the application of ingredients is another drawcard.

"[Through watching skincare vloggers] I've learned about things that enhance your skin, like Vitamin C for extra sun protection, that there are different types of retinoids, and why some products should have certain ingredients to help repair and retain the skin barrier."

Of course, having studied medical science at university, Chantelle has a much stronger grasp of technical-sounding skincare terms than the average Australian. And while she doesn't necessarily follow influencers with dermatology credentials, she does look for content makers with a clear understanding of the science.

Like a group chat filled with tips from trusted friends, Chantelle says first-hand anecdotes from skinfluencers are the reason their content resonates.

"They'll just talk about their experiences and the rest is really up to the [viewer], which I really like and appreciate," she says.

"Yes, textbooks and a doctor might tell you information, but hearing, 'This is my experience of [a product]' is truly valuable."

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Remember, there are things you need a dermatologist for

Sydney-based dermatologist Dr Nina Wines says it can be risky to trust what we read, or hear, online.

"Beauty bloggers aren't bound by the legalities of evidence-based medicine," she points out.

"They often can say things that are not necessarily accurate because they don't have the medical knowledge to know what they're saying is wrong. Whereas, as doctors, we're bound by ethics and law to ensure that what we say is accurate.

"But, like everything, some [bloggers] are a little bit more educated than others."

Dr Wines explains that everyone's skin is different — another reason why product reviews can't be treated as gospel.

"Everyone's skin is as unique as them, we all have unique genetics, environmental exposure and sun damage," she says.

"That's why everything needs to be individualised to the specific person."

For example, Dr Wines says Vitamin-A-rich retinoids — adored by anti-ageing experts and skinfluencers alike — can damage skin if used incorrectly.

"Effectively, retinoids cause a slight peel effect to the skin and if over-applied they can cause irritation," she notes.

"Irritation in a white-skinned person causes redness, but irritation in a darker or olive-skinned person can actually leave pigmentation. So, it really needs to be prescribed well."

Dr Wines says dermatology is a broad speciality, that enables her to assist clients with hair, nail and skin issues, offer anti-ageing advice and cosmetic procedures, and remove cancerous growths

"To become a dermatologist in Australia can take around 13 years," she says.

"We're trained to not only look for skin cancers and melanomas, and treat medical skin problems, such as acne, rosacea, lupus … if you have internal problems like nutritional deficiencies or internal issues going on that can present in the skin.

"For instance, one day a lady of mine had a nodule around her belly button and I knew she had stomach cancer."

Dr Wines' skincare tips:

Beautiful skin requires a holistic approach: wear sunscreen, use products that are appropriate for your skin type, sleep well, eat well and don't smoke.

Beautiful skin requires a holistic approach: wear sunscreen, use products that are appropriate for your skin type, sleep well, eat well and don't smoke. Laser treatment can improve skin health at any age, but it's a complex process. Make sure your practitioner is highly experienced and that they're using the right equipment. For more advice on skin laser treatments, check out this government fact sheet.

Laser treatment can improve skin health at any age, but it's a complex process. Make sure your practitioner is highly experienced and that they're using the right equipment. For more advice on skin laser treatments, check out this government fact sheet. Don't believe everything you see: for example, there's no evidence that edible collagen bars actually benefit your skin.

This is general information only. For detailed personal advice, you should see a qualified medical practitioner who knows your medical history.