“The Dragon and the Wolf” brought the Dragon Queen and the Queen of the Seven Kingdoms face-to-face for the first time. Costume designer Michele Clapton shares how she explores this in the outfits of each queen, down to every stitch.

This season allowed for Clapton to explore Daenerys’ style in a colder climate, in addition to representing her homecoming: “We kept the boots and trousers because that’s her trademark. I wanted to start going towards charcoal and red, because those are [Targaryen] sigil colors.”

“I didn’t want her to wear a crown,” Clapton continues, “but I wanted her to wear something that signified status.” Clapton chose a chain with a three-headed dragon on the end: “There was a weightiness to it. I wanted her to have authority.”