If you know where to look and are patient you can really save a lot of money on yoursupplies. Please check the second to last page of this instructable for a list of resources andtips for getting the best value out of your purchases.

Lining Fabric ~ (1) Yard: This is the structural layer of your corset. If your corset

were a house this layer would be the foundation. It must be very strong and have

minimal elasticity. This is the most important component in a corset! There is a

special fabric made especially for this purpose called coutil and it is the only thing

you should use for any corset you want to last more than a few hours. If you insist

on using another fabric, make sure it has the qualities I mentioned above and a

very tight (preferably herringbone) weave.



Fashion Fabric ~ (1) Yard: The fancier coutils are both expensive (+$30/yard) and

difficult to find, so this layer is employed to give you absolute freedom in creating

the look you want. Since this layer is for purely cosmetic purposes you can choose

from a great number of fabrics that would otherwise be unsuitable for corsets. For

a steampunk aesthetic I prefer brocades, faux leathers, course hemp fabrics,

and upholstery fabrics. This layer is what everyone is going to see, so be creative.



I rarely use anything but a combination of spring steel and spiral steel in mycorsets. I mention the other types more as a cautionary tale then a recommendation.You'll need to measure your completed pattern to know what lengths to purchase.Bones come in pre-cut and continuous lengths. If you buy continuous lengths you will needa bone cutting tool and a way to tip the sharp edges.

Spring Steel (white steel): This should be used in the front and back of the corset,

over the abdomen and the spine respectively. Spring steel has only one degree

of flexibility so it's perfect for maintaining the vertical lines around the busk and

lining up the grommets. Also, since it can't flex to the sides, it will more evenly

distribute pressure along its length than other boning types. The absence of this

quality would make the corset both uncomfortable and quite possibly a health

risk.



Spiral Steel: This should be used for all the bones between the spring steel ones

above. Spiral steel has two degrees of flexibility and can thus more elegantly and

comfortably conform to one's contours while maintaining the strength, elasticity

and durability of spring steel.



Plastic (featherlight): This is not a corset material despite what others might

suggest. It is often conveniently sold in its own bone casing for ease of

attachment. The problem with plastic is that it starts to get used to whatever shape

you bend it to. Before you know it, your corset that you put so much work into will no

longer properly conform to your contours and will have the very unattractive quality

of looking like a rack of lamb.



Rigilene: This product is great when I am designing a new pattern and want to

slap some bones in place quickly to see the effect they will have. But unless you

find the idea of corset lined with dozens in inward facing tiny spears that exhibit all

the negative qualities of plastic boning, avoid using this in anything you plan to wear.



Other: I have read numerous accounts of people making all kinds of strange and

exotic substitutions for bones. While there are probably artisans that can make

a fine corset boned with bamboo shoots I am not one of them. Here is a short list

of some suggestions I have found and all are completely unacceptable: long zip

ties, wooden skewers, braided rope, fiberglass rods, and the bottom portion of a

plastic hanger. Supposedly, the best material for corset boning is whale bone

(which isn't actually a bone) which was used extensively for quality corsets during

the Victorian era. For obvious legal and ethical reasons, whale bone is not an option.



Busk Closure: The busk is a steel hook and loop mechanism at the front of the corset

that permits the corset to be put on and taken off with relative ease. There are two main

types, but for the purposes of this instructable we are only going to focus on the straight

busk (a.k.a. standard busk). The main disadvantage of the busk closure is the price.

Typically they range from $12-$18 depending on length and style. You'll need to

measure your completed pattern to know what lengths to purchase.



Laced Closure: The lace closure laces up the front identically to the lacing in the back.

This will significantly reduce the total cost of the corset, but the final product will take

much longer to put on and take off. The front lacing should not be used for tightening the

corset.



Eyelet Tape: This is a strip of fabric with grommets or eyelets already attached. I would

not recommend using this for your corset as it is not directly compatible with the method I am going

to show you. Also, eyelet tape is far less attractive than setting your own grommets.

____________________________________________________________________________Any thread will do so long as it is strong and feeds well through your sewing machine. For thisinstructable I will be using my two favorites: Coats and Clark Dual Duty XP for the internal (hidden)stitches and Gütermann Extra Strong Thread for the external (visible) ones.____________________________________________________________________________Your local sewing supply or online retailer will most likely sell a kit that has the grommets, a holepunch and a small anvil type or pliers type setting tool, generally for only a few dollars more then thegrommets alone.I recommend size 00 (pronounced: double aught) two-piece grommets like the ones in the image.Notice they come in many different finishes like brass, nickle, black and antique brass.