(Left) The Panchchuli peaks at perched at a height of 22,500 feet above sea level (Right) The 'Peach' cottage of The Birdcage in Mukteshwar, Uttarakhand

Picture this: a cluster of red-roofed cottages with white picket fences; a private fruit orchard; a forest filled with silver Oak trees; 300+ species of birds; the snowcapped Panchchuli peaks, and a cobalt-blue sky. Welcome to The Birdcage, a boutique homestay in the Kumaon range of Uttarakhand in northern India, a sight for sore eyes—and minds.

After an eight-year stint in the corporate world, Birdcage proprietor Nishant Singh—not wanting to feel “empty inside”—packed his bags and journeyed to the mountains. “I’ve always wanted to live in the mountains. The energy, its biting cold winds…” For several years after, he ran a bed and breakfast inn in Manali whilst frequenting different parts of the Himalayas. “Manali changed a lot over the years. From being a peaceful destination, it became a hotspot for tourists and that’s not what I was searching for,” he elaborates.

1 /3 The Birdcage has separate cottages instead of one massive block so guests can take a leisurely stroll the space Red roofs and chimneys at The Birdcage, Mukteshwar, Uttarakhand Gardens and white picket fences surround the cottages at The Birdcage

This cemented The Birdcage’s foundation in Mukteshwar—a town perched 7,500 feet above sea level, an hour’s drive away from Nainital. The host in Nishant takes over: “It’s offbeat, but still accessible—a seven-hour drive from Delhi. Also, it doesn’t hurt that this is the first spot from where you get 180-degree views of the snowcapped Himalayan peaks.”

The Birdcage features 7 cottages, 7 private gardens, an overhanging restaurant, a courtyard and its own herb garden. It’s been designed so guests can comfortably while away their time inside the boutique, for a couple of days even.

1 /3 Snowcapped mountain peaks of the Himalayan range, as seen from The Birdcage, Uttarakhand Gardens and white picket fences surround the cottages at The Birdcage, Uttarakhand Sunset as seen from The Birdcage

Architect Himanshu Lal, who works on restoring heritage buildings, and Nishant, have been mindful of three of the property’s intrinsic elements. Firstly, exploiting its incredible views. The wide bay windows, sky lights and sit outs are everywhere—guests catch the sun set, or watch the day break, from their beds.

Secondly, the layout and design of The Birdcage respects its indigenous orchards — the property was previously home to all kinds of fruit trees. The cottages—named Apricot, Peach, Plum, Apple, Ivy, Cherry Blossom, and Jasmine—conform to the robust orchards that surround them in their private gardens.

Lastly, the design allows deliberate inclusion of contemporary elements. Take for example the television—they do have one, but it is compact and placed in the corner. Facing the bed is, instead, a large window that serves up views of the Panchchuli peaks, perched 22,500 feet above sea level!

Nishant’s house and office take to the same heritage architectural style. They remain in close quarters with The Birdcage, separated only by a white picket fence: “Yes, it is possible to fend for yourself without cutting away from nature,” he laughs.

1 /5 Fireplace at The Apricot Suite of The Birdcage Oopen-to-sky bathroom at The Apricot Suite of The Birdcage Bay window at The Apricot Suite of The Birdcage, Uttarakhand Exterior view of The Apricot Suite of The Birdcage Kumaon Hills as seen from The Birdcage, Mukteshwar, Uttarakhand

Apricot Suite at The Birdcage

As I stand upon the overhanging deck of The Birdcage’s largest cottage—The Apricot Suite—it becomes difficult to summon up the long list of tasks that I have waiting for me back in the city. In front of me, I see the endless Kumaon hills tumbling atop one another. Beneath, I spot newly sprung cabbages and garlic in the herb garden. To one side, a hint of the plum orchard, with fruits ripe and ready for plucking. To the other, is a walking trail leading up to the Silver Fur Forest. One can safely arrive at the conclusion that the environment around The Birdcage has no room for stress.

How about inside the cottage? The air inside the Apricot Suite is warm—a welcome, and invigorating disparity from the cold bite of the wind outside. With a cup of freshly brewed honey- ginger-lime-and-fresh mint tea in hand, it becomes pretty easy for one to stare into the small fire burning from the stone fireplace, for hours together and forget about the outside world.

Resonating with Life

The Common Daisy, Petunia, Pansy, Snapdragon… are some of the many flowers in The Birdcage’s gardens. The place also happens to be dog-friendly, complete with dog-friendly meals on order! Often up to something, one or more furry friend can be spotted around the homestay.The natural tone has been transported into the rooms by interior designer Aphun Gangmei. Real, raw branches have been framed as artwork, faint maroon hues of oak trees have been painted across the occasional bedroom wall.

Apart from homey, well-designed spaces, the hideaway offers leisure activities from the colonial-era as well.

Your day would begin with an array of fresh fruits, a variety of cereals and a mean Eggs Benedict. Then, you could bike up to the many wee waterfalls ahead of Mukteshwar, or walk down below to the Silver Fur Forest. For lunch, you could fill up with the hearty Chicken Breast, stuffed gloriously with ham, cheese and mushrooms. After an evening nap, you could catch the sunset from your room with tea and cookies on the side or play board games in front of the fireplace.

1 /3 Recreation: cafe/restaurant at The Birdcage, Mukteshwar, Uttarakhand Recreation: bike to the neighbouring falls at The Birdcage, Mukteshwar, Uttarakhand Recreation: play board games at The Birdcage, Mukteshwar, Uttarakhand

The hideaway is snowed in during the winter months—around January—and everything is coated in a brilliant sheen of white. The changing seasons keep things interesting. “That’s the reason we have quite a few regulars”, says Nishant. I disagree. From ousting the city dweller’s trepidation to establishing a connect with the mountains—the reasons to revisit, are aplenty.

1 /2 Snowed in cottages of The Birdcage Snowed in cottages of The Birdcage

Leti Bunga, Village Shashbani, PO Bhatelia, District Nainital, Uttarakhand 263132 | Ph: +91 7409 333 127 | Visit the website.

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