Portage House is another hit from a popular Louisville chef | Review

Lindsey McClave | Special to Courier Journal

Show Caption Hide Caption Portage House a mix of old, new as Fat Lamb owners take over Chef Dallas McGarity has taken some ideas from The Fat Lamb and brought them to Portage House.

I had the opportunity to review Portage House in May of last year and left enthused by the simple yet bold flavors being melded together by then Chef Paul Skulas.

From the outside, the young restaurant appeared to be quickly gaining steam, so I was somewhat surprised to learn both the ownership and chef reins were being sold to Chef Dallas McGarity, the brains behind The Fat Lamb, 2011 Grinstead Dr., the Highlands restaurant which has also experienced fast success. I don’t have many restaurants that I revisit time and time again, however The Fat Lamb is the exception to this rule and I was curious to see if McGarity was spinning similar magic across the river in this newly established hotspot.

If the quality of the food at Portage House isn’t reason enough to cross the bridge, its location at the banks of the Ohio in Jeffersonville should be. An ample yet cozy patio overlooks the river, which was dotted with boats bobbing to the beat of a band playing at the Riverstage Amphitheater during our recent dinner visit.

Restaurant Review: Whiskey Dry is a 'worthy contender' for the city's best burger

The aesthetic of Portage House is virtually unchanged — the hodgepodge of antique chairs, white speckled artwork and the reclaimed wood bar just as it was when I previously reviewed the restaurant. It brought to mind flavors of those meals and made me anxious to see what McGarity is doing to put his mark on the location.

Story continues below gallery

The menu at Portage House bares a strong resemblance to that of The Fat Lamb, with several dishes overlapping — think grilled double cheeseburger and his roasted Brussels sprouts; many dishes were a slight variation of those originating at The Fat Lamb, including the seared duck breast and griddled zucchini; and a handful are unique to the location — including the spinach and bacon risotto fritters and a garlic rubbed New York strip.

I found every item on the menu appealing, however I was left a bit uncertain about just what it is that makes Portage House distinctive. The Fat Lamb weaves the flavors of the Mediterranean through much of its menu, creating a common, but not overstated theme.

I didn’t find this tie that binds among the offerings at Portage House.

That’s not to say that the food isn’t impressive.

A starter of spinach and bacon risotto fritters ($9) quickly disappeared in front of my eyes as my dining companions spared for every last bite. Rolled in a thick and crunchy breadcrumb coating, the risotto remained fresh, not at all gummy as it can be wont to become, and the bacon made for a pleasingly salty bite. The garnishes were also well-paired, with a nest of lightly dressed greens adding a touch of freshness and balance to the rich dollop of garlic aioli found atop each fritter.

Restaurant Review: bar Vetti is currently serving up 'the best food' in Louisville

The cast iron goat cheese dip ($13) was also much appreciated. The cheese was creamy yet light with a salad of mixed greens bringing in a pleasant, bitter note. The unexpected pop of flavor from the cherry agrodolce — a traditional Italian sweet-and-sour sauce — was excellent, however, I would have preferred the cherries roughly chopped as their intensity whole tended to overwhelm a bite.

Along with our starters we explored Portage House’s cocktail program. Interestingly, three of the five house creations are tequila based, including the tamarittaville ($12), an eye catching riff on the traditional margarita that features a tamarind syrup acting as the sweet component with lime juice contributing plenty of tartness. There was a smokey note to the drink and the rim was covered in a brightly hued salty spice mix that brought a touch of heat to this well-balanced creation.

Two pastas and nine entrees round out the menu at Portage House. I elected to sample the rock shrimp and grits ($22). The small shrimp were impressively plump and perfectly cooked, mixing beautifully with the creamy polenta taking on the role of grits. The only element missing was heat — the dish yearning for a touch of spice woven into the mix.

The seared duck breast ($26) was also well-executed. The cherry agrodolce made a second appearance in this dish, and this time, the fruit and protein pairing is a classic combo by which Portage House has done right. The gigande beans made for a fun change of pace — and it's certainly an ingredient one doesn’t see used everyday.

Restaurant Review: Louisville institution Mike Linnig’s has room for improvement

We finished off our meal with the nutella mousse dessert ($8), one made popular at The Fat Lamb and the single housemade sweet on hand that evening.

Not that I minded.

Indeed, Chef McGarity has cooked up something delicious on both sides of the Ohio. My only hope is that Portage House further distinguishes itself, honing in on a common ground that allows the menu to meld and hold its own, distinctive form.

Reach freelance restaurant critic Lindsey McClave at lindsey@foodie-girl.com.

PORTAGE HOUSE

Rating: 3 out of 4 stars

Address: 117 E Riverside Dr., Jeffersonville, Indiana

Telephone: (812) 913-4250

Web: https://www.eatportagehouse.com/

Cuisine: Modern American

Children’s Menu: No

Alcohol: Full bar available along with a select list of wines, regional beers and five craft cocktails

Vegetarian: Several vegetarian friendly starters along with one pasta and one entree dish

Price Range: Expensive

Reservations: Yes

Credit Cards: Yes

Smoking: No

Access: Yes, the restaurant is handicap accessible

Parking: Street parking is available along with an adjacent lot

Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 4-10 p.m.; Saturday, 12-10 p.m.; Closed Sunday & Monday