Remember the phrase, "If more is better, then too much is just right"?

It was common back in the day when adding power meant swapping or modifying parts instead of reprogramming a computer. It was just as wrong then as it is today. "Too much" of most anything will likely cost power, especially if it's done out of balance with the rest of the engine's operating systems.

This appears to be what happened with a 1968 Olds 442 that came to Muscle Car Restorations for a complete resto. While MCR was working on the car, the owner had the engine build done at another shop. Once finished and assembled, MCR began their standard road test procedures and found the 442's 455 seriously lacking in power. Not just down a bit from factory levels (the build was supposed to be to stock specs) but almost un-drivable. Actually, it was barely able to get out of its own way.

Basic trouble shooting showed that the timing was set properly, the cranking cylinder pressures were nominal, the fuel flow looked good and the carb seemed to be working correctly. So what's up? Going to have to go inside to find out and the first place to look is the camshaft. If that doesn't reveal the problem then the heads will have to come off.

As it turns out, the cam was the issue and replacing it brought a near dead 455 back to vigorous life again. No one will be embarrassed while driving this 442 on cruise night. Once the cam was out, it was totally obvious what was causing the power loss. No, the problem wasn't that the cam was missing a lobe or two that could have been caused by poor break in procedures. Rather, it had way too much overlap for this engine. There was simply no way that this otherwise stock build was going to be able to flow enough air at a high enough RPM to bring this camshaft into its power band. And the result was a complete loss of low end power.

This is a classic example of "too much" actually having the completely opposite effect from what must have been intended. But this whole experience did present an opportunity to show that a cam change is not the same on all engines so the swap was documented so we all could learn something from it.

Love Olds Engines? You'll Dig These Stories!

See all 22 photos This 455 Olds is supposed to be a fresh stock rebuild but it can barely get out of its own way. Since timing and cranking compression checked out, MCR believes the next step is to check out the camshaft for any potential problems.

See all 22 photos The first step is to get everything on the front of the engine out of the way. Start by draining the coolant, removing the radiator and all the accessories from the front of the engine.

See all 22 photos A couple of the water pump bolts have studs for the accessory brackets so mark where they go so they get back in the right spot during reassembly.

See all 22 photos The harmonic balancer on Oldsmobile engines is press fit onto the crankshaft so you'll need a puller to remove it.

See all 22 photos This is what you will find under the timing chain cover. Note that the fuel pump lever rides on the cam eccentric which is what powers the fuel pump. Both the cam and crank gears will need to be removed with the chain as a unit.

See all 22 photos Olds engines use non-adjustable rocker stands that are torqued to the head. Alternately loosen each bolt only partway until they are free and keep each set of rocker arms and stands together as a set so you can return everything back to its original location.

See all 22 photos Slip a screwdriver or other suitable pry bar under the edge of the intake manifold to break the gasket seal before you lift the manifold off of the engine.

See all 22 photos Unless the engine is excessively worn, the lifters should be able to be removed from their bores with a magnet but don't be surprised if pliers are needed to coax some out.

See all 22 photos Since the distributor is driven off the cam, it will also need to be removed. Mark the relationship of the rotor electrode tip with the main housing and the cap so that you can confirm correct alignment when you re-install it.

See all 22 photos MCR will screw a bolt into the end of the camshaft to give them something to hang on to as they remove the cam. Do the same to insert the new cam.

See all 22 photos While MCR did not have exact specs on the old cam, a quick comparison of the lobes shows the likely problem. Note the cam on the left has considerably more duration than the stock cam profile on the right. You can also see that the old cam has a much narrower lobe centerline angle. This is clearly way too much cam for an otherwise stock engine.

See all 22 photos Cam companies supply a special break-in lube that should be generously applied to both the cam lobes and the new lifters as they are being installed. Notice that the new cam lobes are not shiny like the old ones. That occurs during the break-in period that begins immediately upon engine start up and involves a minimum engine rpm for a specific amount of time. Follow the cam manufacturer's instructions to the letter on this or risk starting over again.

See all 22 photos Unlike the top cam gear, some crank gears have three keyway slots that will allow you to install your new cam "straight up" or + or 4 degrees advanced or retarded. Unless you are sure that you have reason to do otherwise, use the "0" slot to install your cam according to the manufactures original specs.

See all 22 photos Another MCR tip is to put a drop of bright paint into the crank and cam gear alignment dots to make them easier to see. If you can't get your dots to line up like this, your chain is off a tooth on one of the gears.

See all 22 photos Be sure to remember to generously oil the gears and chain before you replace the gear cover. MCR uses the crank bolt (with extra washers as needed) to make it easy to rotate the engine, just remember not to rotate the crank before reinstalling the distributor.

See all 22 photos Just like you needed a puller to remove the balancer, you'll need a tool to press it back into position (which can usually be rented or borrowed from your local parts store). It would be wise to replace the crank seal in the gear cover while it's off the engine as insurance against an oil leak.

See all 22 photos Since Olds uses non-adjustable rocker arms, it's important to check the lifter pre-load (how much the plunger is depressed into the lifter with the valves closed) with the new cam. Our lifter pre-load spec is .030-inch +/- .010. A simple cam swap wouldn't normally change this but if the cam base circle is different or if the heads or block have been decked or the valves have been ground, the pre-load could change dramatically and cause major damage if not properly addressed.

See all 22 photos The intake gaskets for Olds engines double as a large valley pan. There are reference holes at each corner to hold it in place as you set the intake on it.

See all 22 photos MCR prefers to use a bead of silicon sealant in place of the end rail seals. They also run a bead around the water passages to insure against coolant leaks.

See all 22 photos All that remains is to put back the accessories, fan, radiator, coolant, and then start the engine and run the cam break-in routine. The new cam woke up this 455 and restored power, torque, and drivability to what you would expect from a 1968 442.

See all 22 photos Setting the car up on their Mustang Chassis Dyno, MCR is able to set the best timing, confirm proper A/F ratios and perform basic drivability tests. The 455 now produces 310 pounds of torque (at the wheels) at just 3000 rpm, proving that the cam was indeed the culprit. A quick road test showed that this Olds can now bust the tires in Second gear, which is what you'd expect from an engine well known for its torque output.