The HFT20’s brushed 316L stainless steel case is handsome, well proportioned, and devoid of the cookie-cutter vibe common to so many startup offerings. The lug-span is just 49mm, which is fairly short for a 42mm watch. The lugs curve downward just enough to fit a diversity of wrist-shapes, and, importantly, they do so without hoisting the watch to an absurd height. These aren’t the sexily torqued and multi-faceted lugs of the Breguet Type 20s from the early 1960s (ooh la la), but they draw some attractive lines that remain faithful to earlier Type 20 references. While I’d have preferred drilled lugs for the vintage vibe and easy strap changes, I’m not convinced the spring-bar mounts are located in a spot that would be flattering if drilled. Further, I’d hate to see those spring bars relocated, as they’re perfectly placed to create a lovely contour between the lugs and any strap. Regarding straps, the only major clinker of the HFT20 is the strap rivets, which are merely decorative. Worse, they’re seated within full-perimeter stitching, which advertises their superfluousness like a billboard. The rivets are especially grating here because, otherwise, this strap may be the best in its class. They’re thick, stiff, beefy chunks of stitched leather that will take at least a month of constant wear to even start to break in. The edge finishing and tapers are exquisite. Maybe Hemel could offer a no-rivet version, but for now it’s a great strap for fans of the riveted look, and the rest of us can, of course, swap it out. The watch looks smart on all kinds of straps, and the burgundy Horween mil-strap I’ve been sporting is especially well suited to the HFT20’s retro military mojo.

Behind the solid, engraved case back are either the Seiko meca-quartz VK64 movement or the automatic mechanical Seiko NE88 column-wheel chronograph. Both movements have the ghost-position for changing the date (and I assume a full date wheel inside), which is—like the decorative rivets—one of those vexatious things you end up with at this price point. Even my no-date Sinn 556 Anniversary has the same drawback. I’m not aware of a meca-quartz or an off-the-shelf column-wheel movement without a date complication, so it is what it is. The Earth hasn’t stopped turning, and these movement choices turn out to be a brilliant formula for Hemel.