very appreciative of the work that went into these charts.Thank you very much!



if I understand things correctly, using the 3 targets for the 14.5 or 16" carbines, they all do the same thing: provide the ability to zero in at a particular distance by using a 25 m/y range. The difference is in how you set the rear elevation while doing the zero. I guess why one would choose one over the other would be at which distance you want to be closer to zeroed at, right?



My understanding from reading RIBZ threads on this site as well as on



25m: 6/3

50y: 6/3 -4 (for the 20" A4 rifle; the M4 carbine will zero at 41 meters/45 yards)

100y: 6/3 -6

150y: 6/3 -6

200m: 6/3 -4

300m: 6/3

400m: 4

500m: 5

600m: 6/3 (after one full rotation upward)



so I am confused as to why someone would perform the mod to the rear sight and then want to choose the 25/300 target at 6/3, versus clicking down to 6/3 -6 and using the 100m target, versus clicking to 6/3 -4 and using the 50 m target.



Can someone explain? total newbie here, but I amof the work that went into these charts.Thank you very much!if I understand things correctly, using the 3 targets for the 14.5 or 16" carbines, they all do the same thing: provide the ability to zero in at a particular distance by using a 25 m/y range. The difference is in how you set the rear elevation while doing the zero. I guess why one would choose one over the other would be at which distance you want to be closer to zeroed at, right?My understanding from reading RIBZ threads on this site as well as on AR15 Armory was25m: 6/350y: 6/3 -4 (for the 20" A4 rifle; the M4 carbine will zero at 41 meters/45 yards)100y: 6/3 -6150y: 6/3 -6200m: 6/3 -4300m: 6/3400m: 4500m: 5600m: 6/3 (after one full rotation upward)so I am confused as to why someone would perform the mod to the rear sight and then want to choose the 25/300 target at 6/3, versus clicking down to 6/3 -6 and using the 100m target, versus clicking to 6/3 -4 and using the 50 m target.