The tuk-tuk rocks and splashes through the mud, and my guide for the day, Jaswinder Kaur, giggles. "I don't trust this driver,” she says. “But I trust God!"

We are on our way to Jai Hind camp, home to about 1,200 families in the south of Delhi, India. Here, more than anywhere else in the Indian capital, life revolves around water. Tankers carry water to the camp seven times a day and, until recently, filling up a couple of 50-litre tanks was an ugly game, explains Kaur, who works with the Forum for Organised Resource Conservation and Enhancement (Force), a charity trying to improve sanitation and access to clean water in India.

Fights often broke out around the vehicles in the past, meaning only the strongest would secure enough water to last their families for a few days. This left the elderly, sick and marginalised ethnic groups with little water to drink, bathe or wash their clothes.

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In Jai Hind, things are slowly improving. The camp is classified as a 'notified slum', which means that the government acknowledges its presence on public land and commits to take care of sanitation, water drainage systems, food supply and other basic needs of the local population. Here, the public administration teamed up with another charity, WaterAid India, to build a community toilet block – reducing the problem of open defecation, improving women’s safety and water efficiency.