What is your name, position, and where is your company located?

My name is Chad Kimball. I am the owner and operator of Standard Handmade. We design and make boots and shoes authentically by hand, in Austin, TX.

What types of boots does Standard Handmade produce, and how have your current offerings evolved from Standard Handmade’ beginnings?

We believe in keeping our product line simple by offering just a few designs at time. The designs can be customized, of course. We offer just one men’s oxford shoe, one men’s boot (a semi lace to toe design), and one women’s boot (with an oxford opening), for now. The designs are completely original, yet feel classic, somehow, even when I’m using hair-on hides and resin heels.

We used to offer full custom boots and shoes. Meaning we started from scratch with each purchase, you could not purchase unless your feet were measured, each pair of lasts altered for your feet, and every design detail discussed, such as type of leather, color of leather, color of stitching, will there be inlays, how many eyelets, broguing pattern, wingtips or not, cap toe, etc… There are literally hundreds of options when having custom shoes made. I learned two really important things then. One, it requires an abnormal amount of overhead to supply such a variety of options, such as having to buy an entire hide of purple alligator leather just for one person’s purchase. Two, I learned that most people are either intimidated by the amount of choices they have to choose from, or are not interested enough to sort through them, yet lack the vernacular to explain what they want. That’s when I decided Standard Handmade needed to focus on having a product line. People can now choose from a boot or a shoe, between just three leather colors, a stitching color, and a sole color. That’s it. Less is often more, right? Of course, we offer full custom if that is what the client wants. We have to serve the client first.

I think that the type of leather used in a boot is one of the first thing a customer will focus on when thinking about if a boot’s right for them. What qualities (type of tannage, thickness, animal, etc) help determine if they’ll be used for a Standard Handmade’ Boot?

You’ve hit the nail on the head. The leather is the most important part. I spent about a year trying different types before settling on the leather we use now. We use 5-7oz leather for the upper. We use this because the leather has to be thick enough not to require more structural layers, which are typically non-leather, but it also has to be flexible enough to feel comfortable. We use full-grain, oil-tanned leather. We use full-grain leather because the grain is the tightest, strongest and has the most longevity of all grades of leather. We use oil-tanned leather because it softens and moisturizes the leather, as well as gives it some water resistance. But it doesn’t stop there either. We use 6-7oz veg tan to stiffen the toe box and the counter (heel). And we line the whole boot or shoe with 4oz suede calfskin to aid in moisture absorption from the feet, whisk away odor, and thus add life to the shoes. Oil-tanned leather is also able to absorb abuse. Most of the scuffs can be remedied with a wet rag.

Going that extra mile can really endear a customer to a business, and you have that promise into your business name. It’d be really interesting if you could give, say, three memorable examples of custom boots that Standard Handmade’s created, just to give an idea of how far you’re willing to go in order to have a satisfied customer.

Oh man. You have to make sure the client is happy with the end result. The first thing I think of is a client who ordered a pair of shoes just at the moment my wife and I had our baby. There were so many things I had to attend to then, and I was still working a full time job and commuting 3hrs a day. It took me almost 9 months to get his shoes to him, which I know sucks. So I emailed him with updates every month, sent him pictures of the progress and was just honest about having a newborn and the lack of time I had. Jeez, I was working 50hrs a week, commuting 15hrs a week, working late nights on shoes and trying to take care of a baby on a two hour sleep schedule so my wife could get some sleep at night, at least half of the time. He was understanding, but I know must have been frustrated. So when I shipped his shoes I included several pairs of socks, an entire polishing kit worth about $75, and a $250 gift certificate on his next pair. He made it clear how much it meant to him, and has since purchased and received his second pair.

Another occasion I can think of is a chair, not a boot, I worked in collaboration on with a local woodworker. Somehow, the thick, and expensive veg tan leather I used became discolored in two places just a few days after delivery, in a way that it couldn’t just be cleaned. I know that it wasn’t caused from me or my woodworker friend, but instead of wiping my hands clean of the situation, I decided to replace the leather free of charge over the weekend. They appreciated that gesture, and now even give my number to everyone they meet, which I never expected.

And as a follow up — making something custom for a client is a special responsibility. If done right you’ll create something they’ll treasure for decades to come. Are there any replies that stuck with you from customers who ordered a custom pair of boots?

Yes, here is one of the best compliments I’ve ever had from a client with over-pronated feet.

“Hey Chad, I expected cool shoes that were comfortable. I was little nervous to spend that kind of money on shoes, I had no idea what kind of product I’d be getting in return. I’m walking faster, my gait is more lively, I’m more stable and my posture is better. It’s really unbelievable what you’ve done here. Not only are they the coolest shoes I have ever own and I’ve gotten constant compliments on them. I feel more agile in them to the point I was even able to pull my girlfriend of the way of a car almost backing into her. I can’t thank you enough for the product and also the kind gifts you included. Expect an order from me for some boots after the holidays.”

If you had to guess, how many square-feet of leather goes into a pair of boots, say a men’s Size 10 “The Premiere Oxfords”? And what about something more rugged, like a mens’ Size 10 “The Asher Boots”?

Think of the size of a large leather tote. Easily 12 square feet. There are many layers you don’t see with the naked eye. In fact there are 7 different types of leather that go into each pair, and leather comprises of about 95% of each pair of our shoes. The Premieres are likely right at 12 square feet, and the Asher Boots approach 16. Most sides (half an entire cow hide) are about 18-24 square feet. So when our different leather components are combined, they can come close to taking up an entire side of a cow.

In a blog post of yours (The Philosophy of Handmade), you write about your fascination of hand tools at an early age. Have there been any tools you’ve had since you started that you simply won’t let go of?

That’s one of my favorite blog posts. Sometimes I feel I could write a book on the parallels of making things by hand and living life.

No shoemaker can work without a good pair of lasting pincers (pliers). They act as pliers, hammer and shaper. Mine are made by C.S. Osborne, likely the only place to get american made pincers. They grip any thickness of leather and have great balance for sinking shoe nails. As tools go, If I have just pincers and a knife, I can make a pair of wearable shoes.

Speaking of knives, I have pocket knife given to me as a child. I think I was eleven. I still use it on a daily basis. It’s a classic Old Timer with three folding blades. I have each blade sharpened for a different purposed. That’s like my longest tool companion, going on 27 years now. I think they were still made in the US back then? Who knows?

And to follow that up, is there a new tool that’s surprised you with its ability?

I bought a $250 hand-crank sewing machine modeled after an old Singer. I wanted it for doing patching work on shoes, but it has since become my main stitcher for smaller thread sizes. As long as I keep it oiled it never fails, and offers more control than an electric machine. Sort of like the difference between an automatic transmission and a standard. To get the real thing, I’d have spent $800 plus.

This might seem like a big question, but it’s not something everyone’s aware of: could you walk through the welting process at Standard Handmade, why it’s important, and what it can offer your customer that a typical, non-welted department store boot can’t?

Ah, welting. This is where everyone is divided or united. Or confused, likely. Everyone who writes about or owns many pairs shoes looks for Goodyear Welted shoes. Its seen as the ultimate in quality footwear construction. I’m here to say, it’s not all its cracked up to be.

Let me explain. A welt is basically a strap/strip of leather that is sewn around the bottom perimeter of a shoe in conjunction with sewing the upper and the insole to it, by way of a channel that is carved into the insole so that it can accept thread. The welt is then flattened to be horizontal and perpendicular to the shoe. It forms sort of the first layer of the sole and is meant to make an impenetrable bond to prevent the shoe from unraveling. The welt can then be sewn to the other layers of the sole, keeping the sole attached to the shoe.

The problem I have with the Goodyear welt is, most of the time, the welt is not actually sewn into the insole, rather it is sewn into a piece of canvas that is simply glued to the insole. So when the glue wears away the insole is no longer directly connected, and the pressure of keeping the sole on is left up to just the upper. plus you now have this annoyingly thick piece of canvas getting in the way of making a solid repair.

Typically, if you want welt construction, you should look for the terms “hand welt” or “english welt, or even ‘norwegian welt” which I love. These usually own up to the hype.

At Standard Handmade we have made the acute decision to use a Blake stitch to secure all the layers together. One of the biggest advantages of the Blake stitch is that you can trim the sole closer to the body of the shoe since it is a stitch that is sewn directly from the bottom of the shoe through each layer (the midsole, welt, upper) and into the insole. This allows for a sleeker, more finished look to the shoes, which we love. They seem more dressy, but also still feel at home when all you want is to be casual. This type of construction offers every bit of strength, if not more than any of the welt methods mentioned above. Then we hide the stitch so that you never see it and it can’t be damaged. This is also an improvement to goodyear welt construction in that with our shoes the stitches do not make direct contact with the ground when you walk.

Typically the criticisms you encounter with a Blake stitch are, it allows for water to leak in, and it makes a resole more difficult. We have studied, experimented and solved both of these issues. In fact we have figured out a way to make the resole even less expensive than those of traditionally welted shoes. And we have added a special layer of leather on the bottom to keep the water out.



Are there any misconceptions about boots or their construction that you’d like to set straight?

I’d love for everyone to know just how much work and integrity goes into making shoes and boots by hand. Not just my own. It’s a long, arduous process in which every piece of leather is meticulously shaped, carved and fitted to the next, and you have to take a few steps back in order to go forward. I do believe you can see the quality when you look at them, but the story of making them is so much richer than that. A boot made by hand cannot be made by apathetic hands. Apathetic hands would never come to complete such an intricate and complex set of steps. Boots and shoes made by hand, as a default, are made with respect and integrity for the craft, and our fellow man, but then true craftsmanship will always reflect those things.

What’s one thing you’re proud Standard Handmade does – but would never boast about or put in their marketing?

This is a good question. In the boot and shoemaking world there is an unwillingness of the makers to help newbies. I remember when I was getting started and really trying to learn, I’d email some of the makers I respected for their work, or even go visit them and they’d respond with coldness and even bitterness. It seemed like no one wanted to teach or train or even give pointers. Its as if they’d respond to emails or invite me to their shop just to reject me or use me as an outlet for all the ways in which they are bitter.

I’ve made it a point to change that. I welcome and am quick to answer all shoemaker’s and would be shoemaker’s questions about our process and even help them find resources and get started. I’ve even given lessons. To me it’s more important to carry the torch of the craft than to feel my time is wasted or that I’m too tired to help.

Where can people find more about Standard Handmade (links to online store, blog, Instagram, etc)?

Our online store is found at: standardhandmade.com and the blog tends to be a popular feature of the site. You can spend hours reading about shoes and leather without even buying anything. I also welcome all questions and messages. We’re small, and that’s the point. When you are small you can offer more customized service, and you can effect more innovation.

Instagram is our most popular social media platform. Follow us!

The feed is an inside look into our methods and values. It’s also a great place to reveal sneak peeks and one-off projects we are working on.

www.instagram.com/standardhandmade