In the Middle Ages, brewers sometimes stoked their brew kettles by throwing in rocks that had been heated red-hot. They were on to something, as Port shows in this intriguing dark lager, a collaboration with Bend Brewing in Bend, Ore.

What do the hot rocks do? They caramelize and even scorch some of the malt, giving a new layer of browned flavor — not just the caramel, chocolate or molasses notes (there is a tiny amount of the last, a huge amount of the first) but also a little of that burnt sugar taste we learned to love the first time we toasted a marshmallow.

This is a super-malty beer, pouring brown with a little glint of red under a really colossal head. Hops very much play second fiddle — the finish is long and sweet, with hops merely nipping sarcastically at your tongue once in a while.

Obvious food pairings are barbecued pork with a Kansas City-style sauce, Korean barbecue (galbi) and flan (crème caramel).


Quick sip

Style: A big, forgiving mouthful that says life is sweet, even with its regrets.

Price: $4 per 22-ounce bottle

Where to find it: Wally’s Wine & Spirits in Los Angeles, (310) 475-0606, https://www.wallywine.com; Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463, https://www.hitimewine.net; Wade’s Wines in Westlake Village, (818) 597-9463, https://www.wadeswines.com; Beverages and More stores, https://www.bevmo.com; and Total Wine stores, https://www.totalwine.com.