Big numbers are big news and by now everyone knows German strongman Alex Megos was down in Oz this winter where he managed to burn his name into Australian climbing lore by not only clawing his way up the first ascent of the new hardest route in the land – R.E.D. (9a/35) at Diamond Falls – but by also putting up the country’s hardest boulder problem – Wheelchair (9a+/36). Add a host of other hard ticks amongst the atrocious weather and Alex’s trip was something special indeed.

Here at VL we were keen to find out a little more about his time down here so we put a few questions to the man.

You can see Alex looking poised on R.E.D. on the cover and read our editorial about the history of foreign raiders in the latest Vertical Life, which you can download here.

Before you came to Australia you must have had a few preconceptions about what it would be like – how did the reality match up to those preconceptions?

I definitely have to say that Australia exceeded all expectations. The Grampians as well as the Blue Mountains are very unique places and it was so much fun climbing there.

We know that you live in Erlangen, which is not far from Obertrubach where Wolfgang Gullich is buried, so we were wondering if Punks in the Gym was one of the routes you were inspired to try before you came out here? Did you get a chance to try it, and if so, how did it go?

Of course Punks in the Gym was one of my routes I definitely wanted to climb. Not just because it was climbed by Wolfgang, but also because it was the first 8b+ in the world and, of course, because it is a very nice route!

Yes, I got a chance to try it. We went to Arapiles for two days. Well, it could have gone better. I tried to flash it and fell after the sika crimp, so basically after the hard part. I didn’t know what to do there. In every video it looked like it’s over after the crimp, but it isn’t…

You live very close to some of Gullich’s other really famous routes that were first for their grade, Wallstreet (8c/33) and Action Directe (9a/35) – have you tried these lines?

Tried Wallstreet and did it.

Didn’t try Action Directe yet.

What were the top three routes/boulders that you climbed while you were here and why?

The top three boulders were Ammagamma (V13), the Wheel of Life (V15), and Wheelchair (V16) – my new link up – as it challenged me the most.

I can’t name just three top routes, because I climbed five routes which were just unbelievably great! And these routes were Serpentine (29), The Groove Train (33), Flower Power(33), Punks in the Gym (32) and R.E.D (35).

Australians like to think that Taipan is one of the world’s best walls, how would you rate it and the routes you did on it?

Taipan is definitely one of the best walls on Earth and to be honest I have never climbed some sport routes on a wall which is more impressive than the Taipan Wall.

How did you hear about the Red project, and was there anything in particular that inspired you to climb it?

I heard about it the first time we went to Diamond Falls. The other guys I was climbing with (locals) told me about its history. Well, just have a look at the guide book and then you will know what inspired me; It is the only line which has no link ups. The line through the highest point of the wall and definitely a logical line.

According to your normal standards, you spent a reasonable amount of time projecting R.E.D before sending it, do you get bored easily or is it that you just tick everything quickly?

Well, I have never liked to project one route for too long. I don’t know exactly why. Mostly because it feels impossible or really hard at the beginning and I find it hard to motivate myself when success is far away…

You climbed at three of Australia’s main areas, Mt Arapiles, the Grampians and the Blue Mountains – how did you find the different styles compared to each other?

I think its pretty amazing that every area has a different style, especially Mt Arapiles and the Grampians, although they are really close to each other (geographically).

I liked all this different styles and every style suited me quite well. I can’t tell which style I liked the most.

We hear that some days up the Hollow Mountain Cave there were big crowds of climbers watching you climb. How have you found all the extra attention you have garnered since doing the first 9a onsight?

Luckily there weren’t big crowds of climbers watching me, just a few.

I think at the beginning it’s really hard to get used to that extra attention. I have a great respect for all the professional climbers who can easily deal with that kind of pressure. If there is one thing I can tell about having some extra attention, it’s that it’s not easy to deal with.

From what we understand you are a very systematic trainer, did you train specifically for the trip out here or for any of the routes you climbed?

To be honest, no, I never trained especially for one route or boulder. I just train in general to get and to stay fit.

It also depends on the season. In summer I go more climbing than training, compared to the winter, where I mostly train.

Most of the training I do with my two trainers Patrick Matros and Dicki Korb. They do the training with me now since more than six years. During the last years they also support me in general in any kind of issue, like mental coaching and management.

Training to get super strong requires a lot of energy and motivation, where do you think this energy and motivation comes from?

I think I get a lot out of climbing. It gives me a physical and mental balance, fun and satisfaction. You always have to make sure that the energy you get from climbing is bigger than the energy you need to keep motivated.

You have already achieved an incredible amount but what is the facet of your climbing that you think you most need to work on?

Crack climbing. I was in Indian Creek last year on my road trip with my friend Peter Würth and I barely could climb a 5.12- crack. In every other area that’s my warming up grade. 😉

What do you think about the current state of competitive climbing compared to outdoors climbing? Are you going to be competing more frequently in the World Cups in the future?

At the moment it doesn’t look like I am competing the next years. I am a lot more motivated to climb outdoors. But everything can change, you never know…

You are only 20 years old yet you have a reputation for conducting yourself very professionally? How important is this side of climbing to you?

Well, I am climber, right?! So climbing is the thing I am doing all that for. I don’t want climbing to be my profession, because it’s always more fun to do something when you are not forced to do it. If it gets too professional and you don’t have the time for climbing anymore, then there’s something wrong.

Do you think that the demands of sponsors and the media have changed climbing?

Yes. Definitely yes. Just have a look at the climbing and the climbers 30 years ago. Nobody of them saw climbing as their profession although there were definitely some who saw climbing as their inner calling. Since that time the support from sponsors and the media attention have changed, which also led to a change in the mentality of the climbers. We just have to look at other sports which became famous during the past century. Some of the changes are good, most of them are not so good for the pure spirit of the sport.

If there was one thing that you could transplant from Germany to Australia to make climbing here more enjoyable, what would it be?

All my friends (and German bread). 😉