Making your own vinegar isn’t foolproof, but part of its appeal is that it requires little in the way of an initial investment, and few tools. (Though serious vinegar-makers may rely on pH meters and other gadgets, a wide-mouthed jar and a piece of cheesecloth are all you really need to get started.)

Vinegar, the result of acetic fermentation, simply requires oxygen, bacteria and alcohol. You can start the process with ready-made alcohol — a bottle of wine, sake or cider — or create your own alcohol by fermenting fresh peaches or coconut water. From there, the microbes get to work, turning the alcohol into vinegar.

Mr. Lee has a space-saving method at his restaurant. He seals fruit with sugar and water in clear plastic bags and stacks these on sheet pans in the walk-in refrigerator. As the fruit rots, the bags puff. But before they burst open, Mr. Lee transfers the contents to finish fermenting in small two- to three-quart jars.

He often draws out the process over several months, until the bacteria start to metabolize the acetic acid itself. Now, the vinegar changes, taking on new layers of flavor. Its sharp edges soften. As it ages, it becomes increasingly mellow.

“For me, good vinegar is something that’s alive,” Mr. Lee said. “It has a good shot of umami; it makes your mouth water.”