"Go to Fred Meyer, it tastes like bread," says Leiber, who is both always in motion and continually talking in a low-key, affable patter. "Winco is good, I wish they'd boil them. To have that flavor—most bagels are made by commercial bakeries. They don't have the time that it takes. They cut corners. Bowery makes really good boiled bagels, but I think they're crazy. They must work 16 hours a day. No one in their right minds would make boiled bagels as a business."