Even knowing the agricultural and cellar practices of a winemaker will not give the full picture.

There are many reasons to prefer producers who work organically or biodynamically in the vineyard. These techniques may be healthier for vineyard workers, for the soil and for the environment in some ways, and they may yield better wine. But adopting these techniques still leaves plenty of wiggle room for dealing — or not dealing — with climate change.

Do producers plow or till the rows between the vines, which releases carbon to the atmosphere? Or do they plant and maintain a cover crop, whether grasses, legumes or something else? An organic or biodynamic grower could do either. But maintaining a cover crop creates a lower carbon footprint.

Do they mow the cover crop? Or simply roll it? Rolling it releases less carbon from the soil.

Using organic compost is good for vineyards. But do producers make it themselves? Or do they buy it and ship it, possibly from a distance?

Do they use electric or hybrid vehicles? Or standard combustion engines?

Are they practicing regenerative agriculture by minimizing use of chemical sprays and acting to promote biodiversity and soil life?

Have they converted to renewable fuels? Do they practice carbon sequestration, in which carbon is captured and stored rather than released into the atmosphere?

Where does their electricity come from? How do they manage their use of water?

These are the many questions that consumers would need to address in judging a producer’s carbon output, and the answers are not easy to find.

Finally, skilled farmers are empathetic and intuitive, sensing what is needed to maintain and encourage a healthy ecosystem. It’s hard for consumers to determine how well vineyards and their carbon footprints are managed. An official certification for organic or biodynamic practices bears little relation to a farmer’s skill or carbon management.