It was hard to figure out who was having the best time at the Denver ChopHouse on Christmas — those who received a free meal or those who served it.

“I feel like a very special person in God’s kingdom blessed many times over,” said Pam Dupee, as she looked down at her plate of ham and all the fixings set on a linen tablecloth.

At another table, 8-year-old Heavenleigh Lucas excitedly raised a forkful of mashed potatoes in the air when asked what was the best thing on her plate.

On a serving tray behind her were slices of pumpkin and pecan pies and a can of whipped cream.

Over at the bar, Todd Welter of Arvada and his family prepared sodas, hot chocolate and coffee for the guests.

“We love it, we love it, we love it,” he said of volunteering. “We haven’t even opened any presents yet.”

That was a scene played out from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Wednesday at the Denver ChopHouse & Brewery at 19th Avenue and Wynkoop Street just south of Coors Field. The restaurant staff and about 120 volunteers served an estimated 2,500 guests. The restaurant works with homeless shelters, other agencies and other businesses to provide the meal.

ChopHouse general manager Collin McDowell has only one regret: “I’m ashamed we only do this one day a year.”

The ChopHouse has offered a free holiday meal for 18 years, and it was McDowell who changed it from a buffet line to a sit-down dinner, where guests could choose between ham and turkey entrees.

“My thought is this is a group that spends an awful lot of time standing in line,” he said.

ChopHouse and its charitable arm, CraftWorks Foundation, are working to combat hunger in the areas where they operate restaurants. McDowell is passionate on the issue, saying the country isn’t lacking in food or money but, rather, people willing to share what they have.

“It’s heartbreaking,” he said.

But it was uplifting at the restaurant, where children received gifts, stockings and professional photographs of themselves with Santa.

Heavenleigh’s mother, Clarissa, at the ChopHouse also with her boyfriend and his small three children, said it was exciting to have “a real Christmas meal.”

Crystal Yazzie, mother of three children, ages 3, 5 and 6, said they don’t dine out often. When they do, it’s not at a place as nice as the ChopHouse.

Outside the ChopHouse, Jerry Donovan greeted guests. This is his seventh year.

“I’m single,” the 68-year-old Littleton resident said, “so I’d rather do this than watch some dumb football game.”

Just then, one of the departing guests, wearing a tattered hooded sweatshirt, nodded to Donovan.

“It was a magnificent meal,” he said. “Thank you very much.”

Lynn Bartels: 303-954-5327, lbartels@denverpost.com or twitter.com/lynn_bartels

Christmas 2013 A day for giving and receiving