Not everyone drinks beer for the sole purpose of getting drunk. Granted, that’s a happy bonus, but there are those out there who drink beer for its refreshment qualities, when water is too bland, and sugary drinks too unhealthy.

Barley’s Brewing Company’s latest offering, the Belgian Session IPA Séance, is one such beer. It’s something of a departure for Barley’s, whose original intention was to brew British-style Ales known for their full flavors and round finishes.

This IPA, because Brewmaster Angelo Signorino, Jr and Brewer Gabe Sturgess used Belgian yeast for the process, is light, even slightly sweet on the first try. At 4.3% ABV, it’s one of the lightest beers Barley’s has ever produced, the standard usually running around 6%-7% ABV.

IPAs generally are hoppy, which adds to the bitter natures of their finishes. This IPA, however, is mellow and bright. I clearly discerned a grassiness that was markedly palatable, and the sweet lemoniness in the nose as I sipped only added to the experience.

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Session beers are so-named because of the allotments of time workers were allowed to drink during the work day. They had a “session” to down as much as they could before returning to the grind, so these brews tended to be lower in alcohol content (so workers couldn’t be dismissed for being drunk) and not strongly-flavored.

Now, the idea is this is the beer you can have two or three of during happy hour and not ruin your day. It’s the libation you reach for when you’re mowing the lawn or sunning at the pool. It’s big and subtle at the same time; it’s an every-man – and every-woman – kind of brew.

Try pairing this mild beer with dishes with similar profiles, like the Fish & Chips, whose battered exterior, and sharp tartar sauce highlights the citrus notes. Or Mildred’s Sauerkraut Balls, a menu staple made with spicy sausage and cheese, served with parmesan peppercorn dressing. The whisper of heat from the meat, and snap of pungency from the cheeses really accentuates the sugary quality of the yeast and hops.

The Belgian Session IPA Séance may very well end up going the route of other interim brews, like the Blood Thirst Wheat, winner of Barley’s annual home brew contest, which is now part of the full-time lineup. Its broad appeal, crisp zip, and universal drinkability makes this brew a can’t-miss and instant favorite.

“We come out with about three new beers a year, and one usually sticks around,” shares Ian Boyland, Assistant General Manager of Barley’s Brewing. “We know what we like to drink, but it’s not about us. That’s why we like feedback, to know what customers want, so we can bring it to them.”

Barley’s Brewing Company is located at 467 North High Street, directly across from the Greater Columbus Convention Center. The Belgian Session IPA Séance is available daily for $5 a pint ($3.50 during Happy Hour), $15 for a filled growler (growlers cost $4 each, or you can bring your own). This brew is not bottled, and can only found at Barley’s locations, and a few select bars.

For more on Barley’s seasonal brews, and to see what’s next, visit www.barleysbrewing.com.

Photos by Ayana Wilson.

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