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A beef bánh mì sub here was an artful example of the exalted Vietnamese sandwich, its warm, crusty baguette generously filled with tender grilled meat, lightly pickled veg and a smear of pâté that contributed a livery, funky undertone.

A rice vermicelli bowl lost marks for its dry chicken breast and tepid rather than tangy dipping sauce. But it was redeemed by a fantastic, meaty, massive and nicely seasoned spring roll.

When we ordered some of Chez Anh’s pâté chaud (pastries stuffed with meat), our server warned us: “They’re ugly today.” But she continued. “I promise, they’re delicious.” We didn’t think they looked that bad, and they were, indeed, deliciously flaky and richly savoury — everything you would want in a sausage roll.

Among Nguyen’s other snacks, the rice paper rolls were simply made, good and fresh.

The desserts listed on Chez Anh’s wall-filling blackboard have always appealed on sight, although we’ve sadly missed on house-made macarons — Nguyen says to come early in the week for those — and slices of tiramisu or other cakes that sold out. I had a bowlful of green tea panna cotta that could have been better. It was jiggle-free and too cold. Better was a “Hungarian” square which was above all sweet and topped with orange-y glaze.

The café is not licensed, but it does serve, in addition to soft drinks, Cultured Kombucha, strong Vietnamese coffee and pandan iced tea.

When school starts in a few weeks, it’s likely that Chez Anh, which can already be packed with neighbourhood folks, will become still more crowded with Carleton University students who want take-out treats or a linger in an unpretentious spot staffed by people barely older than themselves, where a sassy playlist sends the sounds of Amy Winehouse, Lana Del Rey and Santana into the air.

This weekend, Nguyen is kicking off Night Market Fridays and Saturdays, when he will open to midnight and from 9 p.m. serve snacks such as lamb skewers, grilled squid, curry fish balls and mango sticky rice. Don’t be surprised if things get a little hectic, and comfort that server if she appears a little frazzled.

phum@postmedia.com

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Peter Hum’s restaurant reviews