TBP 058 :: Joe Kinder on The BD Bootcamp, Route Development, and Being a Pro

Project Description

Date: July 11th, 2016



About Joe Kinder

This is an interview with Joe Kinder, a 36-year-old climber from New Hampshire who was one of our sport’s first professional (aka paid) athletes. He’s climbed up to 5.14+ sport and 5.13+ trad, and he’s given back much to the sport by developing a whole lot of new routes all over the US. He’s well known for his consistently high level of psyche for climbing, and for being a genuinely good person and fellow climber at any crag.

Joe, Sam Elias, and Dan Mirsky recently completed the BD Training Bootcamp, where they lived and trained together in Golden, CO for several weeks at a time while being coached by Kris Peters and Justen Sjong. They all saw a lot of success after the bootcamp sessions, and I talked to Joe about what he accomplished after the bootcamp and how he’s changing his overall training because of it.

About Our Talk

In this interview we talked about his history with climbing, growing up with Dave Graham, why he develops routes, training, diet, and lots more.

BD bootcamp results

Route development

Moonboard training

Making a living as a sponsored athlete

Diet and alcohol

Goals of 5.15

Joe Kinder Links

Joe’s experience with the BD Bootcamp (Video)

Joe sending Maquina Muerte in Spain, 5.14d (Video)

Joe in 30 Days in Norway (Video)

Joe on Instagram

Joe on Facebook

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Transcript

Neely Quinn: Welcome to the TrainingBeta podcast, where I talk with climbers and trainers about how we can get a little better at our favorite sport. I’m your host, Neely Quinn, and today we’re on episode 58 where I talked with Joe Kinder.

Joe Kinder, as we all know, is a really great athlete. He’s a strong climber, having climbed up to .14+ and he’s also super generous with his time as a developer of new routes. I talked with Joe about that and his climbing and his history with climbing, but also I wanted to talk with him because he and Sam Elias and Dan Mirsky just did the Black Diamond Training Boot Camp. Well, they didn’t just do it – it was last year, but they went through three cycles of training with Kris Peters and Justen Sjong and they trained together pretty nonstop for weeks and then had a break, and then trained again and had a break, and then trained again.

During that time they also had a sports psychologist, they had a physical therapist, and they also had me as a nutritionist. I wasn’t in the videos but I did see them several times and helped them individually with their diets. We talk a little bit about his diet in this, and it was cool to see them in the midst of their training. Those guys worked their asses off, so it was cool to talk to him afterward through this interview and see how all that hard work paid off.

Before I get to the interview I want to let you know that I may be absent from the podcast for a few weeks. Seth just did a six month programming bootcamp for computer programming stuff and he is graduating – on this Thursday, actually – and we’re going to go for about three and a half/four weeks on the road, on the west side of the country, and go climbing. I may or may not do podcast episodes but I figure since I’ve been doing two a week for so long you probably have some to catch-up on.

Anyway, that’s that and I’ll get into this interview now. Enjoy Joe Kinder.

Neely Quinn: Welcome to the show, Joe. Thank you very much for being with me today.

Joe Kinder: No problem.

Neely Quinn: So, tell me about yourself for anybody who doesn’t know who you are.