Sukiyabashi Jiro, immortalised in the 2011 documentary “Jiro Dreams of Sushi”, has earned three Michelin stars every year since 2007 and is considered to dish up some of the world’s greatest delicacies.

But the restaurant — where the chef’s selection starts at 40,000 yen ($360) — was glaringly absent from the Michelin Guide Tokyo 2020 when it was unveiled to the media on Tuesday because it does not accept reservations.

“We recognise Sukiyabashi Jiro does not accept reservations from the general public, which makes it out of our scope,” said a spokeswoman from the Japanese branch of Michelin.

“It was not true to say the restaurant lost stars but it is not subject to coverage in our guide,” she told AFP. “Michelin’s policy is to introduce restaurants where everybody can go to eat.”

To win a coveted seat at the restaurant, you either need to be a regular, have special connections, or go through the concierge of a top hotel.

On its website, Sukiyabashi Jiro says it is “currently experiencing difficulties in accepting reservations” and apologises for “any inconvenience to our valued customers.”