OVID, N.Y. — John Reynolds had just finished feeding his pigs, and was now pouring his funky, eccentric ciders into glasses inside the worn wooden barn that serves as the fermentation room, tasting room and shop for his Blackduck Cidery.

Mr. Reynolds’s first love is perry, the traditional name for pear cider, and that’s what he began with that day — a hazy, unfiltered 2014 vintage that showed a surprising balance of piercing acidity and creaminess, along with winelike tannins. “For me, perry is always a more complex drink than apple cider,” he said.

But Mr. Reynolds, who previously worked nearby in the horticulture department of Cornell University as a plant-breeding specialist, didn’t stop at pear cider. Over the course of an afternoon here on his farm in the Finger Lakes region, he poured crazy, often-transcendent ciders that blend apples with fruits like chokeberries or sea-buckthorn fruit or local riesling grapes.

He normally makes a cider with black currants, but he lost most of his crop last year. “I’m a fruit grower first and cider maker second,” he said. In the future, he’ll make a quince cider from trees he planted a few years ago. “And medlar fruit is definitely something I’m tempted to plant.”