This seaside town has stepped out of the shadow of its twin. One could say it was gentrifying, were it not built for the gentry

What’s going for it? St Leonards has come of age. For years, all talk has been of its elderly twin, Hastings, newly colonised by rat-race escapees, with their boutiques selling linocut prints or vintage eccles cakes. But slowly, to the west, its neighbour has been undergoing its own metamorphosis. It is very much yin to Hastings’ yang. Whereas Hastings’ Old Town is all higgledy half-timber and tattooed sea dogs, hipster or otherwise, St Leonards has from its birth been a refined, Regency place. Work began on the town in 1826, by a prescient down-from-London-er, James Burton, a property developer who built much of Bloomsbury, and his son, Decimus, an architect. Their work survives, its stucco now largely freshly painted and reappreciated after the doldrum decades. Shab remains, but also the flipside, a slightly anarchic freedom and odd shops that come from low (although risen) property prices. One could say St Leonards was gentrifying, were it not in fact built for the gentry.

The case against Don’t mention the G-word, or call it, as some property column or other (was it me?) did a decade ago, “Portobello-on-Sea”. It is not, although the interiors bloggers are coming. Still host to the usual ingrained seaside town problems. Traffic.

Well connected? Trains: two stations, St Leonards Warrior Square and West St Leonards, to London Charing Cross (90-100 mins), via Tunbridge Wells (34-45 mins) and Sevenoaks (54-65 mins); direct to London Victoria (2 hrs); to Eastbourne (23-33 mins), to Brighton (75 mins) and to Gatwick airport (90 mins). Driving: sluggish, both to Eastbourne (40 mins) and Brighton (1 hr if you are lucky) and north via the A21.

Schools Primaries: St Mary Star of the Sea Catholic, St Paul’s CofE, Silverdale, Christ Church CofE and West St Leonards are all “good”, says Ofsted. Secondaries: St Leonards Academy and Saxon Mount are both “good”.

Hang out at… Norman Road and Kings Road are where the hepcats hang, perhaps at the brilliant Kino cinema, Half Man! Half Burger! or St Clement’s.

Where to buy Some very fine architecture – a smorgasbord of riches. Want period details? You got ’em. Start with the fabulous original waterfront of Regency homes (including James Burton’s) on the Marina. Explore the leafy avenues rising up the hill behind. There are excellent mid-Victorians east towards Hastings, around Warrior Square. West, find later Victorians around Pevensey Road and Filsham Road, often with fine views. Heading out to Silverhill, there are excellent streets of 19th-century townhouses off London Road. Large detacheds and townhouses, £500,000-£900,000, though higher for humungous bling. Detacheds and smaller townhouses, £300,000-£500,000. Semis, £200,000-£600,000. Terraces and cottages, £175,000-£350,000. Flats, £90,000-£400,000. Rentals: a one-bedroom flat, £450-£675pcm; a three-bedroom house, £875-£1,075pcm.

Bargain of the week Five-bedroom Victorian townhouse, needs refurbishment, £250,000 with pcmestateagents.co.uk.

Let’s move to Chichester, West Sussex: it punches well above its weight Read more

From the streets

Clare Tomlinson ‘A vibrant community, full of creativity, independent shops and great places to eat. Try Fika, Ghurka Chef and Goat Ledge.’

Amy Krang ‘Inspiring, with great architecture and lovely sea views.’

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Do you live in Ticehurst, Burwash and the High Weald? Do you have a favourite haunt or a pet hate? If so, email lets.move@theguardian.com by 15 October.