Barbecue

The elements of traditional Korean barbecue ignite the senses: the tantalizing sight of intricately marbled strips of beef, the intoxicating aroma of grilling meat, the popping and hissing of the grill.

The usual suspects are brisket, rib-eye, octopus, chicken, pork belly, bulgogi (marinated beef), and, the sine qua non of Korean cuisine, galbi (short ribs). A quick primer: start with unmarinated meats, and then move on to marinated so as not to let char mar the grill. Grab tongs for gripping, scissors for snipping. Swaddle the finished morsels with lettuce leaves or dip them in sesame oil. Hail the parade of banchan, the complimentary side dishes that soon cover the table—kimchee (fermented cabbage), sukju namul (marinated mung bean sprouts), oi sobagi (cucumbers in chile sauce).

There is no shame in reaching for what you desire. We’re all equal before the grill.

Steven Visneau

This upstairs-downstairs spot, with its tufted banquettes, seems eternally ready to host a wedding reception. The quality of both meat and banchan is standard, but many come for the all-you-can-eat barbecue buffet, which is DIY all the way. You can choose your own meat from the glass-front cooler, but pace yourself. If you leave anything behind, they’ll charge you for it. The lunch buffet is a bargain at $16.95, but know that the coveted LA galbi, sliced laterally across the bones, is reserved for dinner.

This hidden, homey barbecue haven is long on charm, with brick walls, bamboo plants, and servers (and an owner) who bustle like aunties in their aprons. You’ll find yourself returning here for other things as much as for the barbecue, which comes classic with steamed eggs, soybean-paste soup, and purple rice. There are great daily lunch specials mostly priced under $10, and traditional hot pots satisfy. Insider tip: if you call ahead to preorder your lunch, they’ll have it waiting for you.

For beginners in the Korean barbecue game, newcomer Royal Palace is a neophyte’s dream. At the encyclopedic all-you-can-eat buffet, banchan choices are impressive. Slake your curiosity about burdock and spicy garlic stems, sweet boiled black peanuts and sliced fish cakes. Peruse the meat case and see what speaks to you most. You can try your hand at approachable LA galbi, but you can also sample messes of buttery beef tongue, tube-shaped intestine, and marinated squid.

Fire and wood chips have been grandfathered in at this place where the house specialty is exceptional meat. The short ribs are prime Black Angus; the brisket is Kobe. There’s juicy rib-eye and duck with a caplet of fat. The spicy marinated (yangnyeom) galbi is phenomenal, a sweet, charred tangle of flavorful meat and caramelized sugars. The unmarinated option is more austere, but still intense. (Editor’s note: at press time, the owners indicated they had plans to sell the restaurant.)

This reliable fixture offers authentic delicacies worth trying under the heading “cultural cuisine”—raw skate, raw crab, pig’s feet, Korean steak tartare. There is a satisfying haemul pajeon pancake, almost as many grill-at-table options as Koryo Kalbi (including tongue but not duck), and a whole host of meats done in the kitchen. With the quality of the banchan, the classicism of souffled eggs and purple rice, and the attentiveness of the service, do you really need to grill it yourself?

The elegant doyenne of the Asian Trade District, with its burgundy awning and wood-paneled sushi bar, has stood on the corner of Royal and Harry Hines since 1979. The barbecue selection may not be as broad as Koryo Kalbi’s, but the galbi is prime Black Angus. A sequenced prix fixe dinner for two offers an intriguing foray beyond basic barbecue. Small servings of pine nut or vegetable porridge for dessert are a traditional touch no other place offers.