Seoul’s food traditions extend back centuries, from the hearty bowls of seolleongtang (beef bone soup) found in its cozy restaurants to the simple vegan fare of its Buddhist temples. But the dining scene is changing fast in the South Korean capital. Not only are chefs rediscovering — and reinventing — these old-school dishes, but they’re also creating a new modern Korean cuisine that combines traditional ingredients with Western cooking techniques. Restaurants are diversifying their drink lists, too, beyond the classic soju.

“Now Seoul possesses a broad list of restaurants to enjoy, ranging from street food to three-star fine dining,” says Matty Kim, an Eater contributor and photographer. “Seoul is on the rise as a gastronomic destination of Asia.”