WINE LOVERS often act in irrational ways. They chase after wines they’ve never tasted based entirely on numerical scores, spend vast sums of money to store those very same bottles and, at a time when great wine can be purchased in almost every part of the world, they join a wine club.

I’ve never considered joining a wine club. I like to choose my own wine, or to consult retailers whom I know and trust. But I love a great surprise and a good deal even more. Could there possibly be a wine club that delivers both?

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