In Kotli, a city in Kashmir under the shadow of the Himalayas, Imran Khan walked to the front of the stage. The 20,000-strong crowd had already surged forward as one, crushing the wooden fence before them, shouting “Imran Khan, Zindabad!”— “Long Live Imran Khan!” Imran stood there looking out over the multitude, right arm raised in defiance, red and green silk ribbons on his wrist, set against his black shalwar kameez fluttering in the breeze. It was an arresting image of a proud, strong and determined man.

That was a scene witnessed during a week spent on the road, as Imran began the long campaign leading to next week’s general election. I followed him to Kashmir and the tribal heartlands of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, watching