Andrew Mills I The Star-Ledger

By Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Boardwalk food gets no respect, and maybe it shouldn't. Underwhelming and overpriced, boardwalk food caters to - takes advantage of? - a captive audience.

But there is good, even great, boardwalk food out there, if you know where to look. I spent six days walking the six major boardwalks - Asbury Park, Point Pleasant Beach, Seaside, Atlantic City, Ocean City and Wildwood - most of the journey in a blistering heat wave. I stopped at 77 restaurants/stands, sampling close to 150 items, everything from fried pickles with sexy sauce to Seagull Droppings (more on that later). Candy and sweets stands were not considered.

Here are the 35 best boardwalk eats, drawing on my sweaty walking tour and past experience. There's no reason to bad-mouth boardwalk food ever again - unless you keep going to all the wrong places.

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Peter Genovese | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

35. White pizza, Manco & Manco, Ocean City

Manco & Manco started as Mack & Manco in 1956. The Mack family ended its partnership with the Manco family in 2011, while Manco & Manco's owners were found guilty of tax evasion in 2017. The legend goes on; there are 20 or so pizza stands on the Ocean City boardwalk, with Manco & Manco easily the most famous. I've always considered their white pie their best creation, and it didn't disappoint on this mission.

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Peter Genovese | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

34. Chicken, beef pies, Guma Spicy Pies, Wildwood

A newcomer to the Jersey boardwalk scene, Guma Spicy Pies is the brainchild of Augustine Guma, a childhood survivor of civil unrest in Uganda whose first job in this country was as dishwasher in a New York City restaurant. He now oversees a restaurant in Woodbridge, Va., a food truck and the Wildwood boardwalk stand. The pies are available in beef, chicken, veggie, crab and lobster versions. Call them a tasty, slightly spicy cross between a dumpling and empanada.

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33. Sicilian pizza, Pizza Plus, Point Pleasant Beach

Let's be blunt: With a few exceptions, Jersey boardwalk pizza is mediocre at best. Pizza Plus looks like dozens of other boardwalk pizzerias, but the Sicilian comes as a saucy surprise, with commendable cheese and crust. It was a bit undercooked; they need to keep those pies in the oven a minute or two longer.

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Peter Genovese | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

32. Tacos, Blue Cactus, Ocean City

Taco stands can be found up and down the major boardwalks; Blue Cactus stands out for fresh fillings and homemade guacamole and salsa. The tacos are a bit pricey - $5 for chicken, $6 for steak, carnitas and brisket, but you can save a couple bucks by buying three. They have Alex's Lemonade here, better than any of the boardwalk stands not named Bob's or Pucker.

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31. Seagull Droppings cone, George's Homemade Ice Cream, Ocean City

Hold on to your food and watch out for the seagulls! That's good advice on the Ocean City and Wildwood boardwalks, where those nasty birds think nothing of snatching that slice or sandwich right out of your hands. In their honor, or dishonor, George's Ice Cream has introduced Seagull Droppings, a merry mix of vanilla ice cream, Reese's Peanut Butter cups and dark fudge swirls. No, the gulls won't attack your ice cream. At least they left me alone.

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30. Upside down Sicilian, Joe's Italian Pizzeria, Wildwood

Joe's Pizzeria doesn't get anywhere near the publicity of Sam's Pizza Palace or Mack's Pizza on the Wildwood boardwalk, but its upside down Sicilian may be the best Sicilian on any boardwalk. It's nice and saucy, and not cheap - $5 - though Jersey boardwalk pizza is almost never a bargain.

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Peter Genovese | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

29. Lemonade, Bob's Lemonade, Ocean City

Boardwalk lemonade appeared on my list of 17 Popular Foods That Should be Banned in New Jersey and the Rest of the World. "Don't tell me boardwalk lemonade is part of the Jersey boardwalk experience,'' I said. " 'Bad' is not part of any good experience.'' Bob's Fresh Lemonade is right up there with Pucker in Asbury Park as the best Jersey Shore boardwalk lemonade. It's not sickly-sweet, and the lemon doesn't taste like it was sitting out in the rain for a week. It's pricey - $5 for a medium-sized cup (in photo), but worth it.

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Peter Genovese | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

28. Plain slice, The Sawmill, Seaside Park

The legendary Sawmill - the only building on the Seaside Park boardwalk to survive both Hurricane Sandy in 2012 and the disastrous fire in 2013 - once advertised the world's biggest pizza; it now says it's home to the "world famous jumbo Sawmill pizza.'' Whatever, it's a behemoth; a whole pizza is 27 inches in diameter. No matter how big your mouth is, it will not easily contain a slice, which packs more flavor and attitude than slices from a dozen competitors.

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27. Bucket of fries, Curley's Fries, Wildwood

I tried all the major boardwalk fry stands; Curley's came out the winner. Supremely crispy, the fries comes in regular, sriracha, Cuban and Old Bay versions. When I couldn't make up my mind, the guy behind the counter made up sample cups of each one. It was an unexpected random act of boardwalk kindness.

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26. Plain slice, Sam's Pizza Palace, Wildwood

Sam's Pizza Palace is anything but; call it a sprawling open-air seaside cafeteria. The different kinds of pizzas are displayed on a table out front, and a sign on the ancient cash register reads: We are not responsible for slices that are dropped or eaten by seagulls. In the 60s, plain slices were 15 cents; they're now $2.25, which qualifies as something of a bargain on a Jersey boardwalk.

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25. Lemonade, Pucker, Asbury Park

Seven years ago, I declared Pucker the state's best boardwalk lemonade; the quote appears on the boardwalk stand's facade. It's still #1, although there are several strong contenders. The regular lemonade (left in photo; the right is mango lemonade) is what lemonade should taste like: not too sweet nor sugary, with just the right amount of puckery aftertaste.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

24. Pork roll, egg and cheese, Jersey Roll, Seaside Heights

Jersey Roll, which opened on the boardwalk just three weeks ago, is a shrine to Jersey's unofficial state sandwich - pork roll/Taylor ham, egg and cheese. There are seven kinds of pork roll sandwiches on the menu, including the Jersey Fatty, with tater tots, mozzarella sticks and choice of sauce. Stick to the classic - The Pig & A Yolk (shown in photo), nearly big enough for two.

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23. Caramel popcorn, Johnson's Popcorn, Ocean City/Wildwood

Johnson's Popcorn is a Jersey food icon; the first one opened on the Ocean City boardwalk in 1940. There are now three Ocean City locations, plus one in Wildwood. The popcorn is scooped from a bin and ladled into transparent plastic tubs. This is pricey popcorn - $13 for a 28-ounce container on site, $31.95 if you're ordering online - but generations of Johnson's faithful customers think it's well worth it.

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Peter Genovese | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

22. Empanadas, Giovanna's Goodies, North Wildwood

Another of those boardwalk food stands you could easily walk past, Giovanna's offers a full range of Hispanic dishes - grilled chicken and rice, stewed chicken, oven roasted pork, steak, tostones and more. The empanadas - $3 each - boast crisp, firm shells with perkily seasoned meat inside.

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21. Margherita slice, Maruca's Tomato Pies, Seaside Heights

Maruca's started on the Seaside boardwalk in 1950. It was wiped out by Hurricane Sandy, then by the boardwalk fire in 2013. Now part of JR's in Seaside Heights, Maruca's is about to extend its reach, with a location in Asbury Park to open later this year. The margherita is a classic example of the iconic tomato sauce/mozzarella/basil pizza.

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20. Grilled cheesesteak, Steve's Grilled Cheese, Wildwood

Forget those greasy, gruesome boardwalk cheesesteaks; order a grilled cheesesteak at Steve's Grilled Cheese. More than a dozen kinds of grilled cheese are available, including mac n cheese, BBQ chicken and 4-cheese versions. But the Grilled Cheesesteak is the signature item, and the combination of good meat, gooey cheese and thick bread make it a winner.

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19. Wood-fired wings, Biergarten, Atlantic City

The Biergarten, open just two months, is a welcome addition to the A.C. boardwalk, undergoing a long-overdue freshening-up. The city's "first authentic biergarten,'' four blocks south of Boardwalk Hall, is an open-air venue, with a good craft beer selection. The menu is short and sweet: brats, Bavarian pretzels, truffle tots, pork or chicken skewers and a few other items. The wings are nice and no-nonsense - dry rubbed, with no designer or icky BBQ sauce. Proof that sometimes the basics work just fine.

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Peter Genovese | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

18. Donuts, The Fractured Prune, North Wildwood

There's nothing quite like a hot, made-to-order doughnut to kick-start your morning. The Fractured Prune has a location in Ocean City, but Wildwood is the only Jersey boardwalk stand. You'll have to wait a few minutes, but once you pop that sugary fried marvelousness in your mouth, all else will be forgotten.

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Peter Genovese | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

17. Dragonberry bowl, Playa Bowls, Asbury Park

The toughest thing at Playa Bowls is figuring out what the heck to order. There are a mere 30 bowls on the menu: acai bowls, pitaya bowls, green bowls, banana bowls, chai pudding bowls, green bowls and coconut bowls, with varying combinations of granola, fruit, seeds, nuts and more. The Dragonberry has three of my favorite things: strawberries, blueberries and honey, plus pitaya (a cactus fruit that gives the concoction a funky neon-purple glow), banana, papaya and coconut milk.

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16. Mango habanero wings, Spicy Cantina, Seaside Heights

The Spicy Cantina's open-air upstairs deck has the best view of the Seaside boardwalk, and you'll need to go upstairs anyway for the restaurant's Mexican food (downstairs is a bar, with burgers, pizza, panini, etc. on the menu). The tacos are good, but the wings are the way to go, with mango habanero, BBQ, Buffalo chicken and Thai chili sauces. The uber-crunchy mango habanero wings (photo) pack fruity, spicy heat; they remained standouts when re-heated two days later.

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15. Pork taco, MOGO Korean Fusion Tacos, Asbury Park

I've sung the praises of MOGO for many years. The storefront, on Cookman Avenue in Asbury Park, is a chill casual hangout; the boardwalk stand offers a condensed menu - six tacos, plus MOGO's Korean doughnut (at right in photo). The pork taco (foreground in photo, $4.50) is always my go-to: spicy marinated pork belly with citrus cole slaw.

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Peter Genovese I The Star-Ledger

14. Banana whip whole grain waffle, Bashful Banana, Ocean City

Mention the words "banana whip'' to any Ocean City resident or regular, and they should know exactly what you're talking about. It's a creamy concoction at the Bashful Banana made from ripened, then frozen bananas; the resulting banana custard can be ordered on its own, or added to splits, bowls, waffles and more. It may change your outlook on bananas forever. The Bashful Banana is on Colony Walk, between 9th and 10th streets.

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13. Forbidden Chicken sandwich, Hoagitos, Asbury Park

Hoagitos' boardwalk menu emphasizes chicken; the Belmar storefront's menu is more expansive (I love the sopressata sandwich, and the House Blend Burger sliders). The Forbidden Chicken (in background in photo, $8) is a tasty, tender buttermilk-dredged thigh with sweet n spicy glaze, carrot daikon slaw and roasted garlic mayo on a first-rate roll.

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12. Fish tacos, Martell's Shrimp Bar, Point Pleasant Beach

Martell's is the state's best known tiki bar, a sprawling complex of bars, decks and dining spaces. Well under-the-radar is Martell's Shrimp Bar, just inside the tiki bar's entrance and to the left, where over the years I've had some of the best seafood meals anywhere Down the Shore. The fish taco (photo) is highly recommended, with perfectly fried flounder topped with tomatoes, lettuce, Cajun spice, green onions, cole slaw and chipotle sauce. One great app: the tuna bites.

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11. Pork roll, egg and cheese sandwich, Johnny's Pork Roll truck, Asbury Park

"Why isn't it called a Taylor ham sandwich?'' the folks in North Jersey will fuss and moan. Because it's Johnny's Pork Roll truck, that's why, although owner Johnny Yarusi (photo) uses Taylor ham. There are several kinds of pork roll sandwiches - the Western, with provolone and sauteed peppers and onions; the Pulled Pork Roll, with sweet BBQ and Asian lime slaw; and the PBLT, with bacon, lettuce and tomato. Go with The Sandwich - a classic pork roll, egg and cheese. It's a hearty handful ($7). The truck can be found at North Eats, 7th and Boardwalk, Thursday-Sunday.

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Peter Genovese | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

10. Donuts, Brown's, Ocean City

The two legendary Ocean City boardwalk donut stands are within easy walking distance of each other — Ove's and Brown's, at the north end of the boardwalk. Ove's makes apple cider donuts with varying toppings, while Brown's offers six kinds of donuts: vanilla-glazed, chocolate-glazed, cinnamon, powdered sugar, honey-glazed and plain. They look heavy, but they're light and lovely. Make sure to get there in the morning before they run out.

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9. Golden fried shrimp, Phillips Seafood Shack, Atlantic City

You could walk right past Phillips Seafood Shack, just north of the Rainforest Cafe, without noticing it. It's the boardwalk outpost of Phillips Seafood, inside the Pier at Caesars. The boardwalk menu is a condensed version of the restaurant menu, but it has all the standards: New England clam chowder, clam strips, crab cakes, lobster rolls and more. The best of the bunch is the golden fried shrimp (photo), nine perfectly-fried pieces of shrimp ($10.95) atop a bed of seasoned fries.

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Noah K. Murray I The Star-Ledger

8. Soft serve, Kohr's, Kohr Bros., Point Pleasant Beach/Seaside Heights/Ocean City/Wildwood

No Jersey Shore summer is complete without a trip to Kohr's - or Kohr Bros, both descendants of the five Kohr brothers who opened an ice cream stand on the Coney Island boardwalk in 1919. I've had soft serve at both Kohr's and Kohr Bros., and honestly can't tell the difference, so they go on here as a joint entry. The creamsicle flavor is legendary, but I'll go with a vanilla/chocolate swirl any day. The hard ice cream is underrated.

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7. Crab cake sandwich, Ike's Famous Crabcakes, Ocean City

The Ike in Ike's Famous Crabcakes was the late Ike Cossaboon, who cooked for the New Jersey Conference of Mayors annual conference for 15-plus years, and opened his boardwalk stand in 1990. New owners took over in 2013, but they still claim to make the best crab cake at the Jersey Shore. Who am I to argue? The sandwich is pillowy-soft and close to perfect. It's $13.50 and comes with a heap of Ike's butterfly chips.

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Peter Genovese | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

6. Roast pork sandwich, Jake's Steaks, Wildwood

Jake's Steaks is practically hidden inside a Curley's Fries on Mariner's Pier, but one bite of the roast pork sandwich, and you'll have the location permanently implanted on your mental food Rolodex. It's overpriced - $11.99 - but that meat is the real deal. Get a Lemon Shake-up (lemonade) while you're there. They're kept inside a refrigerator, so they come out fresh and ice-cold.

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Peter Genovese | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

5. Watermelon ice, Polish Water Ice, Atlantic City/Wildwood/Ocean City/Seaside Heights

You can find Rita's stands on the Wildwood, Ocean City and Atlantic City boardwalks; Polish Water Ice is better. It's the creation of Thomas Curyto, of Polish descent. It's a creamier, denser version of traditional Italian ice. Free samples were available at the Atlantic City and Wildwood locations when I stopped by. The watermelon was my favorite - an icy-cold sweet fruity sensation.

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Peter Genovese | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

4. Bulgogi cheesesteak, Crunchik'n, Ocean City

The best cheesesteak on any Jersey boardwalk is .. . Korean? You'd better believe it. The cheesesteak at Crunchik'n is no mainstream cheesesteak, not with bulgogi (beef), sauteed vegetables, provolone and cilantro. It's overpriced at $9.75, but so are pretty much all boardwalk cheesesteaks. Don't forget to try the Korean fried chicken wings (10 for $10) while you're there.

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3. Lime ricky, Lime Ricky World, Wildwood

Why subject yourself to that icky overpriced boardwalk lemonade when you can have a lime ricky? That's lime ricky (lime, water, seltzer), not lime rickey, the drink with gin or bourbon. Lime Ricky World has been on the Wildwood boardwalk for 50-plus years. You can also get lime ricky shakes, lemonade and water ice, but start with a regular lime ricky. Tart and sassy, it may have you giving up boardwalk lemonade forever.

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Peter Genovese | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

2. Soft shell crab sandwich, Park Seafood, Seaside Park

Park Seafood was damaged by Hurricane Sandy, then by the 2013 boardwalk fire, relocating to the Aztec Hotel in Seaside Heights. Thank goodness the Seaside Park stand has re-opened. Skip the scrawny tuna bites and proceed to the soft shell crab sandwich (photo), nothing less than fried seafood perfection.

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1. Sausage sandwich, Dentato's Clam Bar, Seaside Heights

It doesn't look very photogenic, but the sausage, peppers and onions sandwich at Dentato's Clam Bar was the single best sandwich sampled on any boardwalk. Excellent sausage (and lots of it), a fistful of peppers and onions, and good roll add up to a superlative sandwich. Forget the clams; go for the sausage.

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What is your favorite boardwalk food stand/restaurant?

There are hundreds of Jersey boardwalk restaurants and food stands, and many worthy ones were left off this list. What are your favorite boardwalk hangouts? Let us know in the comments section.

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Alexandra Pais I New Jersey Local News Service

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Peter Genovese may be reached at pgenovese@njadvancemedia.com. Follow him on Twitter at @PeteGenovese or via The Munchmobile @NJ_Munchmobile. Find the Munchmobile on Facebook and Instagram.

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