Aberdeenshire has the highest density of castles anywhere in Scotland. From Balmoral Castle in the Cairngorms National Park to Drum Castle, Craigievar Castle, and Crathes Castle in the heart of the shire, to Fyvie Castle, Slains Castle, and Findlater Castle further afield, Aberdeenshire really is Mecca for travelers with an interest in these historic fortresses. This area is also home to Scotland’s most beautiful ruined castle: Dunnottar Castle.

Dunnottar Castle crumbles on a rocky headland off the coast just south of Stonehaven. As you approach you instantly get a sense for what makes this such a legendary sight: The castle’s ruins occupy the entirety of the headland’s raised, flat expanse while cliffs drop steeply into the sea on every side. This headland is connected to the mainland only by a narrow strip of land that today provides access for visitors but which proved extremely difficult to besiege in the past.

The best way to visit Dunnottar Castle is to start from pretty Stonehaven village. Until my visit this past May I had forgotten the cozy, welcoming feel of Stonehaven, and it makes the best starting point for a hike to Dunnottar Castle as there’s a path leading out of town from Stonehaven harbour. This path leads steeply out of town before hugging the coast and running south past the Stonehaven War Memorial and Strathlethan Bay.

Gorgeous views of the Aberdeenshire coastline greet you as you walk along the grassy clifftops. Stop and rest on one of the benches to admire the ruins of Dunnottar as they quickly grow nearer. In the early morning or evening this is a photographer’s dream.