On Friday we visited a genocide memorial in Kigali. It’s set up somewhat similarly to DC’s holocaust museum–informative, but also commemorative, respectful and emotional. Somehow, in my several days of considering all the differences between Gulu and Kigali, it never crossed my mind how different studying the conflicts would be. In fact, the conflicts are different in almost every way. Uganda’s civil war stretched on for 23 years. Rwanda’s genocide lasted only 100 days. Uganda’s conflict ended a mere 2-3 years ago. Rwanda has had 16 years to recover from and digest theirs. Perhaps because of how concentrated that violence, or perhaps because the country has had more time to build memorials and process the tragedy, the genocide feels more tangible. The memorial’s displays of machetes, clubs, and pipes used to beat victims to death sharply called to mind how physically difficult it is to kill another human, and therefore all the more horrible. The pictures of bodies covering the floor and tables of a school house clearly depicted just how horrific the extent of the killing was. Letters and reports to the UN, the US, and other countries that could have offered aid, detailed how unequivocal the world’s neglect was.

One part of the memorial was dedicated to the children who had died. Plaques below photos told the child’s name, birthdate, cause of death, and a few personal details like “favorite food” or “hobbies”. Some plaques also offered the child’s last words. I’m really not much of a crier, but one child’s last words of “Mum, where should I run to?” nearly had me in tears. Another child’s last words of “UNAMIR will come for us” left me furious. Not only did Kofi Annan and the UN do nothing to help, despite UNAMIR chief, General Dellaire’s reports, warnings, and calls for aid, but they in fact withdrew troops and instructed Dellaire not, under any circumstances to use force. One placard estimated that a mere 5,000 troops were necessary to stop the genocide.

Another one of the most horrifying aspects of the conflict to me, is how purposeless it was. Rwanda is a beautiful, lush land. There is enough food and water for all. Resources were not the root of this conflict. In fact, tribalism was not even the root of the conflict. Indeed, before colonialists arrived, Hutus and Tutsis lived as one people, with one culture, one language, one religion, not as two divided warring tribes. The ethnic divisions in Rwanda were entirely created by colonialism. They “tribal lines” they created were based on socio-economic status, and grew to encompass every aspect of life. The genocide was an act of retribution, punishing the Belgian-favored Tutsis for their years of power. But the Hutus were not attempting to seize power–they already had it. The Hutus stood to gain nothing but the extinction of their brothers.

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