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WHEN IT'S TIME TO SET UP THE GEARS IN YOUR AXLE YOU DON'T NEED A GARAGE FULL OF EXPENSIVE TOOLS AND YOU DEFINITELY DON'T NEED TO SEND IT OFF TO A SHOP. TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD WE'LL TAKE YOU STEP BY STEP THROUGH BUILDING YOUR AXLES AT HOME. PLUS WE'LL HELP A VIEWER RECENTER HIS HONE WHEELS ON THIS WEEK'S DRIVEWAY RESCUE.IT'S A JOB THAT MOST PEOPLE NEED TO TACKLE AFTER INSTALLING A LARGER SET OF WHEELS AND TIRES AND A LIFT KIT. BUT IT'S ONE THING THAT ALMOST EVERYONE IS AFRAID TO DO FOR THE FIRST TIME. THEY END UP TAKING THEIR RIG TO A SHOP TO HAVE IT DONE, AND THAT IS UPGRADING THE RING AND PINION IN YOUR DIFFERENTIALS, OR MAYBE ADDING A LOCKER TO GET SOME MORE TRACTION OFF ROAD. IT'S HONESTLY NOT THAT HARD IF YOU FOLLOWA FEW KEY STEPS. SO TODAY I'VE GOT TWO POPULAR TYPES OF AXLES IN THE SHOP. AND WE'RE GONNA GO THROUGH THE CORRECT WAY TO SET UP A RING AND PINION EVEN IF YOU'RE WORKING IN YOUR HOME GARAGE. ASIDE FROM JUST RATCHETS AND SOCKETS YOU'LL HAVE TO GET SOME SPECIALIZED TOOLS TO PROPERLY SETUPA RING AND PINION. YOU'RE GONNA WANT TO GET A MAGNETIC BASED DIAL INDICATOR SETUP, A SET OF CALIPERS, AN INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH WITH A DIAL MEASUREMENT, AND A FOOT POUND TORQUE WRENCH, AND YOU CAN JUST GET A CLICK TYPE TORQUE WRENCH FOR THAT SETUP. THERE'S SOME TOOLS THAT ARE NICE TO HAVE BUT YOU DON'T NECESSARILY HAVE TO HAVE THEM, AND THOSE ARESOME BEARING RACE DRIVERS AND A PINION DEPTH CHECKING TOOL.BUT BEFORE YOU USE ANY OF THESE SPECIALIZED TOOLS THE FIRST STEP IS TO COMPLETELY TEAR DOWN THE AXLE. AND THERE'S SOME SPECIAL STEPS YOU HAVE TO FOLLOW THERE AS WELL. THE BEARING CAPS INSIDE AN AXLE NEED TO BE REINSTALLED INTO THE FACTORY POSITION. EACH CAP NEEDS A WITNESS MARK ON IT FOR BOTH LOCATION AND DIRECTION OF THE CAP. A LETTER PUNCH WORKS BEST FOR THIS.KEEP ANY SHIMS INSIDE THE AXLE TO ACT AS A BASELINE FOR SETUP. ON AN AXLE WITH A PINION SUPPORT IT'LL HAVESHIMS UNDERNEATH IT. ON DANA SERIES AXLES THERE WILL BE SHIMS ON THE CARRIER SIDE BEARINGS AS WELL AS UNDERNEATH THE PINION OR THE RACE INSIDE THE HOUSING.IF YOU'RE INSTALLING A GEAR SET ONTO AN AXLE THAT DOES NOT HAVE A PINION SUPPORT, SO A DANA SERIES AXLE OR MAYBE A STERLING, THE FIRST STEP IS TO DETERMINE THE DEPTH OF THE PINION INSIDE THE AXLE HOUSING. NOW THAT WAS WHEN YOU'D GET OUT YOUR SPECIAL TOOL, THE PINION DEPTH CHECKER TOOL TO FIGURE OUT THE THICKNESS OF THE SHIM. BUT IF YOU DON'T HAVE THAT TOOL AND YOU'RE WORKING AT HOME, YOU CAN STILL FIGURE OUT THE DEPTHOF THE PINION. IT JUST TAKES A COUPLE OF EXTRA STEPS. THE SHIMS FOR THE PINION DEPTH EITHER SIT BEHIND THE MAIN PINION BEARING RACE OR UNDERNEATH THE PINION BEARING ON THE HEAD OF THE PINION ITSELF. WE NEED TO MAKE A SET OF SCUFF BEARINGS FOR THE AXLE BY GRINDING THE INSIDE OF THE PINIONBEARING WITH A DIE GRINDER AND THE OUTSIDE OF THE BEARING RACE WITH A SANDER UNTIL THEY CAN BE EASILY SLIPPED INTO THE HOUSING AND ONTO THE PINION AND REMOVED WITHOUT A PRESS. THEN TEMPORARILY INSTALL THE NEW RING GEAR ONTO THE FACTORY DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY. WE'RE USING A SET OF 5.38 GEARS FROM YUKON GEAR AND AXLE. FROM THE FACTORY UNDER THE PINION BEARING WAS A 30 THOUSANDTHS THICK SHIM. SO THE SAME 30 THOU WORTH OF SHIMS ARE INSTALLED UNDER THE SCUFF BEARING RACE INSIDE THE AXLE HOUSING.THE PINION YOKE IS HAND TIGHTENED TO PUT PRESSURE ON THE BEARINGS. THE CARRIER IS THEN DROPPED BACK INTO THE HOUSING.AND THE GEAR MARKING COMPOUND IS MIXED AND PAINTED ONTO THE GEAR. THE CONTACT PATTERN AND PINION DEPTH CAN NOW BE CHECKED. WITH THE PATTERN IN PLACE, IT TELLS US WHETHER OR NOT THE SHIM THAT WE DROPPED INTO THE HOUSING IS THE CORRECT THICKNESS, AND IT'S NOT. YOU CAN SEE THAT THE PATTERN ON THE DRIVE SIDE OF THE TOOTH IS FAIRLY WELL CENTERED. BUT ON THE COAST SIDE IT'S ACTUALLY FALLING OFF TOWARDS THE INSIDE OF THE RING GEAR, TOWARDS WHAT'S CALLED THE TOE OF THE TOOTH. AND YOU WANT THOSE TWO CENTERED, MATCHED UP TOGETHER.NOW THAT TELLS ME THE PINION IS TOO FAR AWAY FROM THE AXLE CENTERLINE.NOW TO FIX IT IT'S PRETTY EASY. ALL I'VE GOT TO DO IS DISASSEMBLE EVERYTHING AND CHANGE THE SHIM UNDERNEATH THAT BEARING RACE. THAT'S WHY WE BUILT SCUFF BEARINGS.I CAN SIMPLY PULL IT OUT WITH MY HAND, SWAP THE SHIM, CHECK THE PATTERN AGAIN.THERE ARE A LOT OF CHOICES WHEN YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A LOCKER. WE'LL HELP YOU MAKE THE RIGHT ONE. PLUS WHEN RECENTERING YOUR WHEEL SOMETIMES YOU HAVE TO RUIN YOUR WIFE'S FAVORITE CAKE PAN.WE'RE SHOWING YOU THE PROPER PROCEDURE TO UPGRADING A RING AND PINION IN YOUR RIG. I'VE ALREADY SET OUR PINION DEPTH IN OUR DANA SERIES AXLE AND TO DO IT I INSTALLED OUR NEW RING GEAR ONTO THE FACTORY DIFFERENTIAL. THE NEXT STEP IN THIS PROCESS IS TO SWAP THIS RING GEAR OVER TO SOME TYPE OF A LOCKER.PEOPLE ASK ME ALL THE TIME, WHAT KIND OF LOCKER SHOULD I PUT IN MY RIG. AND IT REALLY DEPENDS WHAT TYPE OF RIG YOU'RE BUILDING. BUT ALL LOCKERS BREAK DOWN INTO TWO MAIN GROUPS, SELECTABLE OR MECHANICAL. A GOOD EXAMPLE OF A SELECTABLE LOCKER IS THISYUKON ZIP LOCKER. IT'S AN AIR OPERATED DIFFERENTIAL. WHEN UNLOCKED IT'S AN OPEN DIFFERENTIAL, PERFECT FOR A DUAL PURPOSE RIG OR MAYBE AN EXPEDITION RIG. SOMETHING THAT'S GONNA SEE A LOT OF HIGHWAY DRIVING BUT WHEN IT'S IN THE DIRT NEEDS LOTS OF TRACTION. A MECHANICAL LOCKER, WELL IT'S NOT SELECTABLE. IT MOUNTS INSIDE THE AXLE. WHEN IT SENSES WHEEL SPIN, IT LOCKS THE TWO AXLES TOGETHER. NOW A MECHANICAL LOCKER IS INSIDE THAT AXLE AND IT'S JUST THERE TO DO WORK. YOU HAVE NO CONTROL OVER WHEN THAT AXLE LOCKS UP. IT JUST LOCKS WHEN THE WHEELS START SPINNING.IF YOU'RE ON THE STREET TAKING A CORNER, YOU'LL SOMETIMES FEEL THAT LOCKER LOCK INTO PLACE. THAT'S WHY YOU SEE THEM MAINLY USED IN A VEHICLE THAT SPENDS MORE TIME IN THE DIRT THAN ON THE STREET. BUT IF YOU'RE PUTTING A 14 BOLT UNDER YOUR PROJECT, YOU'RE PROBABLY GONNA CHOOSE THE MECHANICALLOCKER FOR A VERY SPECIFIC REASON. THE YUKON GRIZZLY LOCKER REPLACES THE SPIDER GEARS INSIDE THE 14 BOLT'S FACTORY DIFFERENTIAL. THIS MAKES THE MECHANICAL LOCKER MUCH MORE COST EFFECTIVE FOR THE 14 BOLT, ALMOST HALF THE PRICE OF A SELECTABLE LOCKER FOR THE SAME AXLE. BUT ON A FRONT AXLE ASSEMBLY IT'S MORE COMMON TO CHOOSE A SELECTABLE LOCKER.SO FOR OUR DANA 60 FRONT I'LL FINISH UP THE GEAR SET INSTALL USING A YUKON ZIP LOCKER. ONCE YOU'VE CHOSEN THE CORRECT LOCKER FOR YOURPROJECT AND YOU'VE GOT YOUR PINION DEPTH FIGURED OUT, THE NEXT STEP IS TO SET THE BACK LASH. NOW TO DO THAT IN A DANA IT'S DONE WITH SHIMS ON EITHER SIDE OF THE SIDE BEARINGS.NOW IF YOU REMEMBER FROM THE FACTORY THE SHIMS WERE UNDERNEATH THE BEARING BETWEEN THE BEARING AND THE CARRIER. ON AN AIR LOCKER LIKE THIS ZIP LOCKER THEY'RE ACTUALLY ON THE OUTSIDE. AND THAT'S WHY WE STARTED BY DROPPING THE GEAR SET IN WITH NO PINION BECAUSE NOW WE HAVE TO TAKE A SERIES OF MEASUREMENTS. TO DETERMINE THE TOTAL NUMBER OF SHIMS NEEDED THE LOCKER IS MOVED TO ONE SIDE AND THE GAP BETWEEN THE BEARING RACE AND THE AIR FITTING IS MEASURED. THAT WILL BE THE TOTAL THICKNESS OF OUR SHIM PACK. THEN THE LOCKER IS REMOVED, THE PINION DROPPED BACK IN AS WELL AS THE LOCKER. THE LOCKER IS THEN PUSHED UP AGAINST THE PINION AND THE GAP IS MEASURED AGAIN. THIS IS THE THICKNESS OF SHIMS NEEDED FOR THE RING GEAR SIDE OF THE LOCKER. THE REMAINING SHIM COUNT GOES ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE BEARING.THEN THE DIAL INDICATOR IS INSTALLED ONTO THE AXLE AND THE BACKLASH IS CHECKED. OUR BACKLASH IS WITHIN SPEC BUT IF WHEN WE INSTALLED THE GEAR SET IT WASN'T, TO CHANGE IT YOU MOVE THE SHIMS FROM ONE SIDE OF THE LOCKER TO THE OTHER. IF WE HAD TOO MUCH BACKLASH WE'D NEED TO MOVE THE RING GEAR TOWARDS THE PINION. SO WE'D TAKE A SHIM OUT OF THE FAR SIDE OF THE BEARING AND SLIDE IT INTO THE OPPOSITE SIDE. THAT WOULD BASICALLY MOVE THE RING GEAR OVER INSIDE THE HOUSING.AND IF WE HAD TOO LITTLE BACK LASH, WE NEEDED MORE,WE'D DO THE OPPOSITE. JUST MOVE THOSE SHIMS BACK AND FORTH. NOW YOU THINK RIGHT NOW WE'RE SO CLOSE TO BEING DONE WITH THIS AXLE, BUT BELIEVE IT OR NOT WE AREN'T.WE'VE GOT THE PINION DEPTH SET, WE HAVE OUR BACK LASH TAKING CARE OF, BUT WE HAVEN'T TAKEN CARE OF PINION BEARING PRELOAD. SO THIS ENTIRE AXLE GETS TAKEN APART ONE LAST TIME. PINION BEARING PRELOAD IS SET TWO DIFFERENT WAYSDEPENDING ON THE TYPE OF AXLE. EITHER WITH SHIMS, OR A CRUSH SLEEVE IN BETWEEN THE TWO PINION BEARINGS. OFTEN WHEN UPGRADING THE GEAR SET THE NEW GEARSWILL BE SHIM TYPE AND ELIMINATE THE CRUSHED SLEEVE FROM THE SYSTEM. WHEN THE PINIONS ARE COMPARED SIDE BY SIDE IT'S EASY TO IDENTIFY THE EXTRA MATERIAL ON THE PINION THAT'S THERE TO ELIMINATE THE CRUSH SLEEVE. TO SET THE PRELOAD THE SHIMS ARE PLACED ON THE PINION AND IT IS INSTALLED INTO THE HOUSING. THE PINION BEARING NUT IS TIGHTENED UNTIL THE BEARINGS ARE FULL SEATED AND THE ROTATING TORQUE IS CHECKED WITH A DIAL TYPE INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH. AND WITH THAT OUR SET UP IS COMPLETE. WE'RE NOW READY TO COMPLETELY ASSEMBLY THISAXLE FOR GOOD, DROP IT IN THE LOCKER, TORQUE DOWN THE CAPS, AND RUN IN THE COPPER LINE TO THE BULKHEAD FITTING.UP NEXT WE HELP A MAN WHO WANTS A SAFE SET OF WHEELS FOR HIS FAMILY FOUR WHEELER.NEED HELP SOLVING A PROBLEM WITH YOUR PROJECT, HERE'S DRIVEWAY RESCUE.TODAY WE'RE HELPING A VIEWER WHO IS BUILDING A DUAL PURPOSE RIG TO TAKE HIS WIFE AND THREE KIDS ON OFF ROAD ADVENTURES. HE'S PLANNING TO BUILD A SET OF RECENTERED HONE WHEELS BUT WANTS TO MAKE SURE THAT HIS WHEELS WILL BE SAFE AND STRONG. HOW YOU DOING JESSE.GOOD IAN, THANKS FOR COMING OUT.ANYTIME, GOOD TO SEE YOU. SO I'VE SEEN PICTURES OF IT, TELL ME ABOUT YOUR BLAZER.IT'S A '77 CHEVY KFIVE. I BOUGHT IT FOR $1,000 DOLLARS DOWN IN ALABAMA.DROVE IT HOME AND STARTED TEARING INTO IT. SO NOW IT'S GETTING A FIVE POINT THREE LS WITH 32 SPLINE SM 465 MANUAL TRANS, 203/205 DOUBLER,CUCV ONE TON AXLES WITH 4.56 GEARS.THIS IS GONNA BE A FAMILY WHEELER?YEAH, I JUST REALLY WANT SOMETHING THAT I CAN DRIVE AROUND TOWN AND THEN TAKE WHEELING. SO IT'S GETTING OVERBUILT BECAUSE IT'S NOTGONNA SEE A TRAILER. AND IT'S GONNA SEAT SIX. WE HAVE FIVE PEOPLE IN OUR FAMILY NOW. SO THERE'S ALWAYS ROOM FOR ONE MORE.ROOM FOR ONE EXTRA ONE.YEAH, ONE LITTLE KID THAT SQUEEZE UP ONE MORE.ALRIGHT JESSE, AS YOU KNOW WE'RE RECENTERING THESE BECAUSE THE OFF SET IS NO GOOD. THEY NEED TO BE DEEPER. THEY'RE POSITIVE BECAUSE OF THE HONES, BECAUSE OF THE PLANETARY HUB. SO I THINK THE PLAN IS GONNA BE PRETTY SIMPLE. YOU'VE GOT YOUR PRESSED CENTERS. I BROUGHT MY PLASMA CUTTER CAUSE WE KNOW IT'S GONNA WORK REAL WELL.AND WE'LL GO AHEAD AND WE'LL JUST TRIM THIS OUTER RING OUT. AND THEN WE CAN SET THE PRESSED CENTER IN PLACE, TACK IT, AND THEN WE'LL USE THE TRUCK AS THE JIG TO DO ALL THE FINISH WELDING.BUNT PAN! THE BUNT PAN IS SIMPLY A GUIDE FOR THE PLASMA CUTTER TO MAKE CUTTING A GOOD SMOOTH CIRCLE EASY AS CAKE. LET'S REMOVE THE BUNT CAN.WHOO LOOK AT THE CAKE! I MEAN JESSE I THINK THIS MIGHT STILL BE GOOD JUST BE LIKE, YOUR CAKES MIGHT BE A LITTLE IRONY. THE INSIDE OF THE RIM IS PREPPED AND THE CENTER IS DROPPED INTO PLACE.[ welder crackling ]WITH THE WHEEL BOLTED ON TO THE TRUCK'S REAR AXLE A DIAL INDICATOR IS USED TO MEASURE THE RUN OUT OF THE WHEEL.WITH SOME INITIAL BEADS LOCK THE CENTER ONTO THE WHEEL.ALRIGHT IT'S LOCKED IN THERE GOOD RIGHT NOW WITH THOSE BEADS. LET'S PULL IT OFF, WE'LL THROW IT ON THE BENCH AND DO SOME FINISH WELDING ON THE BACK SIDE. NOW WITH A LITTLE MORE WELDING THIS WHEEL IS FINISHED. BUT SINCE THIS TRUCK IS GONNA BE A TRUE DUAL PURPOSE RIG AND SEE SOME STREET DRIVING, I'VE GOT A SURPRISE FOR JESSE. ALRIGHT FIRST OF ALL JESSE, WE GOT ONE OF THESE FOR YOU. ACTUALLY I GOT FIVE OF THOSE FOR YOU, AND FIVE OF THESE. RECENTERED HONE IS THE RIGHT WHEEL FOR YOUR TRUCK NO QUESTIONS ASKED.A DO IT YOURSELF RECENTERED HONE, I MEANIF IT WAS JUST A TRAIL TRUCK, YEAH, KNOCK THAT OUT, KEEP GOING. BUT YOU'VE GOT THREE LITTLE KIDS, YOU'RE GONNA DRIVE THIS ON THE STREET. THESE FROM TRAIL WORTHY FAB ARE A BETTER DECISION OKAY. THEY ARE WITHIN FOUR THOUSANDTHS OF AN INCH OF RUN OUT. WE COULD ONLY GET THAT ONE TO 30, AND THAT'S GONNA BE NORMAL WHEN YOU'RE WORKING IN YOUR GARAGE. SO THIS, FOR ANY VEHICLE THAT'S GONNA BE TRAIL AND STREET, BETTER DECISION. SO I GOT FIVE OF THESE FOR YOU AND FIVE OF THESE 41 INCH TALL PIT BULL ROCKERS. SHAKE IT, SHAKE IT!ALRIGHT JESSE, I KNOW THIS MIGHT FEEL LIKE CHEATING, SWITCHING OVER TO A NEW WHEEL, BUT I THINK IT'S THE RIGHT DECISION, DON'T YOU?I'M OKAY WITH IT.I FIGURED YOU WOULD BE. SO YOU GOT FOUR MORE OF THESE TO BUILD. IF YOU WANT TO RECENTER THE REST OF THOSE WHEELS, GO AHEAD AND DO IT, GIVE THEM TO ONE OF YOUR BUDDIES WITH A TRAIL TRUCK.BUT I THINK THIS WILL KEEP YOUR FAMILY SAFE WHEN YOU'RE ON THE ROAD AND ON THE TRAIL. AND WHEN YOU'RE ON THE TRAIL GIVE ME A SHOUT, WE'LL GO FOUR WHEELING TOGETHER.AWESOME, THANK YOU SO MUCH.THANKS FOR HAVING US OUT MAN!SOMETIMES IT'S BEST TO REUSE OLD PARTS, BUT SOMETIMES YOU'VE GOTTA UPGRADE.WHENEVER THERE'S A CONVERSATION ABOUT AXLES, THERE'S ALWAYS A QUESTION ABOUT WHY CERTAIN MODELS HAVE BECOME SO POPULAR, IN PARTICULAR THE FORD NINE INCH AND THE CORPORATE 14 BOLT.WHEN YOU SEE HOW THE GEAR SET IS SET UP IT'S EASY TO UNDERSTAND WHY. BOTH THE 14 BOLT AND THE FORD NINE INCH USE THREADED SIDE BEARING ADJUSTERS TO MOVE THE CARRIER AROUND INSIDE THE DIFFERENTIAL, NOT SHIMS. NOW THAT MAKES GEAR SET UP A LOT EASIER. THEY BOTH USE WHAT'S CALLED A PINION SUPPORT. NOW THAT MEANS THAT THE PINION IS COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED AWAY FROM THE DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING ANDPINION DEPTH IS SET BY CHANGING SHIMS THAT GO IN BETWEEN THE SUPPORT AND THE AXLE HOUSING. NOW THAT MAKES AXLE SETUP JUST A LOT EASIER AND FASTER. YOU'RE NOT CONSTANTLY DISASSEMBLING, REMOVING THE CARRIER, CHECKING THE CONTACT PATCH, PUT IT BACK IN, AND REASSEMBLING IT. YOU JUST PUT IT ALL INTO THE HOUSING AND YOU CANMAKE ALL YOUR FINE TUNE ADJUSTMENTS WITH EVERYTHING IN PLACE. THERE'S HUGE AFTERMARKET SUPPORT FOR BOTH OF THESE AXLES. LOTS OF GEAR RATIO OPTIONS AND LOCKERS, AND COMPANIES LIKE YUKON GEAR AND AXLE EVEN ALLOW YOU TO ELIMINATE WHAT'S POSSIBLY THE ONLY WEAK LINK IN THESE TWO AXLES, AND THAT IS THE CRUSH SLEEVE USED TO SET PINION BEARING PRELOAD. THEY OFFER THESE SOLID SPACER KITS FOR BOTH THE 14 BOLT AND THE NINE INCH.NOW THAT WILL ELIMINATE THE CRUSH SLEEVE AND JUST ENSURE THAT ONCE YOU'VE GOT YOUR GEAR SET SET UP, IT'S GONNA STAY THAT WAY. ANOTHER QUESTION I GET ASKED HAS TO DO WITH NARROWING A FRONT AXLE ASSEMBLY, AND CAN YOU REUSE A FACTORY INNERC. WELL YOU CAN, AND THERE ARE SOME STEPS. THE FIRST IS TO CUT THE INNERC OFF OF YOUR STOCK AXLE HOUSING FLUSH AT THE FACTORY WELD. GRIND THE REMAINING WELD DOWN UNTIL YOU'RE FLUSH WITH THE CASTING. THEN USING A CUTTING TORCH, THE REMAINING AXLE TUBE IS CUT INTO TWO HALVES AND THE TUBE CAN BEAIR HAMMERED OUT. THIS WILL ALLOW YOU TO REUSE THE FACTORY INNERC AND OUTER KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY. NOW THIS IS PERFECT FOR RECREATIONAL WHEELER OR MAYBE A DUAL PURPOSE RIG. BUT IF YOU'VE GOT ANY OFF ROAD RACING OR ROCK BOUNCING PLANNED FOR YOUR FUTURE, YOU'RE GONNA WANNAUPGRADE TO AN AFTERMARKET KNUCKLE AND INNERC ASSEMBLY LIKE THIS ONE FROM REID RACING. THE INNERC IS A HEAVY DUTY FORGED UNIT THAT'S MODELED AFTER THE DANA 70 "C", MUCH BEEFIER THAN THE DANA 60. THE KNUCKLE IS A DUCTILE IRON PIECE THAT'S GOT STIFFENING RIBS IN KEY PLACES TO MAKE IT A LOT STRONGER AND IT CONVERTS IT FROM A BALL JOINT STYLE KNUCKLE TO A KING PIN KNUCKLE, MUCH STRONGER.IT ALSO CONVERTS IT OVER FROM A UNIT BEARING TO THE OLDER STYLE TAPERED ROLLER BEARING SPINDLE. THAT JUST MAKES SERVICING THE AXLE DOWN THE ROAD A LOT EASIER. BUT IF YOU'RE PLANNING TO BUILD A BOMB PROOF AXLE FOR YOUR PROJECT, THIS ISN'T THE ONLY DECISION YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO MAKE. INSTEAD OF USING YOUR FACTORY PINION YOKE, UPGRADE IT TO A 1350 YUKON FORGED UNIT.IN STOCK FORM THE YOKE USES A SMALL TAB TO RETAIN THE UJOINT CAP, BUT THE AFTERMARKET YOKES HAVE FULL CAP RETENTION AND USE THE LARGER 1350 UJOINT STRAPS INSTEAD OF THE SMALL BOWLS. FOR EVEN MORE BEEF UPGRADE THE ENTIRE DRIVELINE TO LARGER 1410 UJOINTS AND YOKES. SO NOW IT'S UP TO YOU GUYS. TAKE ALL THIS AXLE KNOWLEDGE THAT YOU'VE LEARNED TODAY, HEAD OUT INTO THE JUNKYARD, PICK YOURSELF UP A COUPLE OF ONE TONS AND TEAR INTO THEM AND BUILD YOURSELF A COUPLE OF BOMB PROOF AXLES FOR YOUR PROJECTS.