It is an exciting time to be a woman in the food industry!

Many food writers know that we female chefs are shy and retiring creatures, ready to bolt like startled deer at the first sign of loud noises, bright lights, or press coverage. In consideration of our delicate feelings, they have decided we should only be written about twice a year. Our first moment comes with the new Michelin guide, at which point the requisite articles appear asking where all the women/black/Hispanic chefs are, and why they have been under-represented in the nominations again. Then, when the James Beard Awards are announced, those same pieces get dusted off and republished.

But now John Besh's sexual harassment allegations have provided women with another chance to get in on some of that Boys Only press coverage. For the past two weeks, my Twitter feed and email inbox have been filled to overflowing with food journalists begging me to Come Forward With My Story, demanding that I Make a Statement, encouraging me to Speak Out. Apparently, the rules have changed. Women may not have value as chefs, but as victims we’re finally interesting!

Women may not have value as chefs, but as victims we’re finally interesting!

Only a real grouch would point out how depressing it is that what’s gotten food writers actually excited about covering female chefs is their sexual assaults, not their approach to food.

Warning: I am about to display anger. When women display this emotion, it is known to cause discomfort, headaches, and nausea.

Let me make it clear to those who’ve asked for my comment:

Yes, I have experienced things in the food industry that would be considered sexual harassment and assault.

No, I will not be your headline.

Make no mistake about it, I think it’s long overdue that women feel safe enough to come forward and speak about the assault and harassment they experience in restaurants, and I’m glad reporters are holding the perpetrators responsible. This is 100 percent a good thing. But if the press had been as eager to celebrate the talents of female chefs as they are to discuss their victimization, we wouldn’t be in this position in the first place.

Women are second-class citizens in the restaurant world. We have less access to investors and are perceived as less profitable investments because, in large part, we have smaller profiles than male chefs. We get nominated for fewer awards, our restaurants get reviewed less often, and we get less press coverage than men.

Michael Nagle/The New York Times/Redux

Women need safe places to work. But until the playing field is financially level, there will never be safe places, because we will never be able to control our own futures. The odds are against us getting the award that drives business into our dining rooms. We are statistically less likely to get the review that makes all the difference. Maybe if women in this industry felt like they had the same opportunities, they would be able to leave abusive kitchens faster. Maybe then they wouldn’t feel like they had to endure the unendurable. Maybe male chefs would view them as equals, not as targets.

I’ve been in this business for 20 years, and I don’t think I’m owed anything except equality of opportunity. But don’t ignore me, marginalize me, cut me out of your coverage, and then ask me to be your victim. Don’t pack your headlines with the hot young men, the male-dominated restaurant groups, the macho celebrity chefs, and then expect me to be impressed by your sudden outrage.

You’re probably saying, “You talk a big game, young lady, but where’s your proof?” Well, I read in an article (Just kidding! My husband read it to me.) that men like numbers, so I put some together for you.

Over the past 12 months, The New York Times has written major reviews for 44 restaurants. Six of those kitchens are run by women.

In the past 27 years, 361 James Beard Awards have been given out. Eighty-one of them have gone to women.

Since 2000, Food & Wine has selected 192 of the Best New Chefs in America and given them extra coverage. Twenty-eight of them have been women.

Of the 72 Michelin-starred restaurants in New York, six are run by women. Of the 14 restaurants in the U.S. with three Michelin stars, none have female chefs.

I’m sure you’re thinking, "Fewer women get awards and press coverage because there are fewer women in the restaurant business."

My simple feminine intuition crumbles before your rigorous logic, but below you'll find a list of 65 women who are executive chefs, executive sous chefs, or restaurant owners in New York City alone. I just made this list off the top of my head, but I bet if a man put it together it would be twice as long, and twice as good.

Maybe every single one of us is a terrible cook? It’s possible, but isn’t it a convenient coincidence that the worst cooks happen to be female? Or African-American? Or Hispanic? Because let’s not forget that if you’re a chef of color, your numbers are even worse than those of women.

Isn’t it a convenient coincidence that the worst cooks happen to be female? Or African-American? Or Hispanic?

Since I can barely do my own job, I shouldn’t make suggestions to other people on how they should do theirs. But here’s a fun game we can play, press friends: For one year, put your headlines where your outrage is and give half your coverage to women. For every review of a restaurant led by a male chef, run a review of a restaurant led by a female chef. If you call some male chefs for comment on an article, call the same number of female chefs. A male chef gives you his recipe for the ultimate potato salad? Then run a piece where a female chef tells you how to cook the perfect pasta.

On the one hand, how dare I tell you how to do your jobs! Journalistic integrity! On the other hand, you’re not exactly writing about nuclear proliferation. What’s stopping you from trying this? Do you think your readers value women so little they’ll stop reading? I wonder where they got that idea.

But really, I just came here to say "thank you" to the press. Thank you for finally letting me know what us ladies have to do to get your attention. As you’ve made clear, it doesn’t matter how well we cook. It only matters if a man wants to grab our pussies.

Female Chefs in New York, Off the Top of My Head

April Bloomfield–Spotted Pig, The Breslin, The John Dory, Salvation Taco, Tosca Alex Raij–El Quinto Pino, Txikito, La Vara, Tekoá Missy Robbins–Lilia Gabrielle Hamilton, Ashley Merriman–Prune Einat Admony–Balaboosta, Taïm, Bar Bolonat Lynn Bound–54 Below Sara Jenkins–Porsena, Porchetta, Nina June Julie Taras Wallach–Tipsy Parson Barbara Sibley–La Palapa Suzanne Cupps–Untitled Melissa Rodriguez–Del Posto Jody Williams–Buvette, Via Carota Rita Sodi–I Sodi, Via Carota Angie Mar–The Beatrice Inn Jean Adamson–Vinegar Hill House Emma Bengtsson–Aquavit Caroline Fidanza–Saltie Lidia Bastianich–Felidia, Becco, Del Posto, Esca Rebecca Charles–Pearl Oyster Bar Alex Guarnaschelli–Butter Leah Cohen–Pig & Khao Hong Thaimee–Ngam, Thaimee Box, Thaimee at McCarren Sawa Okochi–Shalom Japan Sarah Sanneh, Carolyn Bane–Pies 'n' Thighs Anna Klinger–Al Di La Lauren DeSteno–Marea Susan Povich–Red Hook Lobster Pound Sohui Kim–The Good Fork, Insa Mary Redding–Mary’s Fish Camp Ann Redding–Uncle Boons Duangjai Thammasat–Ayada Gazala Halabi–Gazala’s Place Sripraphai Tipmanee–Sripraphai, Qi Thai Grill Rawia Bishara–Tanoreen Patti Jackson–Delaware and Hudson Wafa Chami–Wafa’s Express Julieta Ballesteros–La Loteria Ratchanee Sumpatboon–Larb Ubol Pam Panyasiri–Pam Real Thai Hillary Sterling–Vic's Ivy Stark–Dos Caminos Mary Cleaver–The Green Table, The Cleaver Company Denisse Chavez–Taqueria El Atoradero at Parklife Katherine Fuchs–The Thirsty Koala Amy Scherber–Amy’s Bread Melissa O’Donnell–Lil' Gem Isa Chandra Moskowitz–Modern Love Paola Bottero–Paola’s Kristin Sollenne–Bocca Di Bacco Anita Jaisinghani–Pondicheri Janine Booth–Root & Bone Christina Tosi–Momofuku Milk Bar Simone Tong–Little Tong Noodle Shop Zhu Rong–Hao Noodle and Tea by Madam Zhu’s Kitchen Clare de Boer, Jess Shadbolt–King Claire Welle–Otway Umber Ahmad–Mah-Ze-Dahr Victoria Blamey–Chumley’s Jocelyn Guest, Erika Nakamura–White Gold Butchers Daniela Soto-Innes–Cosme, Atla Sarah Nelson–Beauty & Essex, The Stanton Social Lucero Martinez–Pampano

Amanda Cohen is the executive chef and owner of Dirt Candy on the Lower East Side.

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