It's easy to traffic in hyperbole, but Marble Room Steaks and Raw Bar is undoubtedly one of the region's most stunning destinations.

The restaurant, which opened Tuesday, Sept. 5, at the historic Garfield Building, 623 Euclid Ave., occupies an extraordinary space. Former home to the National City Bank headquarters, it is classic Cleveland.

Built in 1893 by the sons of assassinated U.S. President James Garfield, the space was originally the home to Guardian Bank. It later became Cowell & Hubbard Jewelers, then the English Woolen Co. before National City took over the property during the 1920s.

Visually, it's a jaw-dropper — particularly for anyone unfamiliar with old Cleveland grandeur. Decked in pink marble, the main complex occupies roughly 10,000 square feet of space.

Entering the opulent former bank lobby off of Euclid Avenue, guests pass through a small foyer into Marble Room's lounge area, where a 19-seat bar topped by a glass-encased wine display runs along one side, a handsome raw bar bordering the other. The lounge itself seats 75 and opens into an expansive formal dining room.

Massive pillars, topped by ornately carved capitals, rise to the ceilings. The majestic gold-and-blue floral ceiling is punctuated by vast chandeliers. A series of friezes ring the upper limits of the room.

Malisse Sinito, president of Millennia Hospitality Group (LockKeepers in Valley View), hosted a preview tour of the space last week.

While preserving the bank's original appointments, latter-day decorative touches were integrated to preserve the building's timeless quality. Soft fabrics in muted tones and matte-finish wood surfaces lend subtle luster. Oversized globe light fixtures were added "to bring the lighting down to a more human level," Sinito said.

Dramatic draperies in shades of khaki and taupe, hung high near the 40-feet ceilings, drop nearly to the floor. They confer a sense of privacy to the banquettes on either side of the main dining area.

A massive, bronze-colored bull stands at the base of the grand staircase that leads up to private meeting and dining rooms.

Initially, the property was meant to be home to Jeff Ruby's Steakhouse, a Cincinnati-based chain. When that deal fell through, the Millennia organization — which is transforming the historic building into The Garfield, a 123-unit apartment building — reconsidered its options.

"This had to be handled perfectly. There was no way we could mess this up," Sinito said.

A luxe steakhouse was the logical format, she added.

"What else could you possibly do with a room this beautiful?" she asked, her gaze drifting across the cathedral-like space with its soaring ceilings and expanses of dusty pink stone.

"Look at this opulence. In a space like this, anything else would have just been wrong. This is a place just made for a splash."

Of course, these days every new restaurant opening raises the specter of an overbuilt downtown dining scene. Sinito's said she's aware of potential cannibalization, but countered by adding that she can only focus on her mission to make the Marble Room a premier destination.

"If we'd been setting out to find another place to open, you know, another restaurant, I'd really have to think long and hard about choosing a location downtown," she said. "But when Frank (her husband, developer Frank Sinito, CEO of the Millennia Cos. and new owners of Key Tower) set his sights on the historic Garfield Building, and then the Jeff Ruby's deal fell through, it was a done deal."

A procession of designers contributed to the space's refurbishment and transformation, among them Morris Nathanson Design director John Bell of Pawtucket, R.I. The space was completed by American Preservation Builders LLC and members of the Millennia organization.

If the setting itself is the Marble Room's obvious headliner, the production would need a powerful co-star: remarkable food.

To provide that, Malisse Sinito wanted someone with extensive international experience at the helm and a reliable team in the kitchen.

Sonny Gorushanovich was her choice for general manager. In addition to stints in Europe and the Middle East, he has headed operations for dining at the Fontainebleau Miami Beach and worked as food and beverage manager for properties in Washington, D.C.

Millennia Hospitality then looked within its current team to build the core organization.

Alberto Leandri, executive chef for LockKeepers, was a lead player in setting the tone. Though he's playing the central role in creating Millennia's next project — Il Venetia, in the former David's restaurant space at Key Center — Leandri and Sinito needed a compelling force in the kitchen.

They decided that LockKeepers' longtime sous chef, Brandon Veres, was ready for the challenge. He'll oversee as executive chef.

Still in his 20s, the unassuming Veres, a Culinary Institute of America graduate, brings a driving work ethic and high level of expectation to the operation. He's teamed with chef de cuisine Kyle Anderson (late of Red the Steakhouse), executive pastry chef Dwight Penney (The Country Club, Pepper Pike) and executive sushi chef Jaango Enkhtaivan (last at The Four Seasons Washington, D.C.)

Lynda Khoury heads up Marble Room's private dining services. Khoury herself is something of a local restaurant legend: Early in Tremont's rebirth, she opened the Bohemia Club Cafe, later selling the space to Liz and Michael Symon to open the original Lola Bistro. She'll book events in Marble Room's 140-room banquet facility and several smaller spaces within the complex.

Steaks are at the heart of the menu, of course, with 10 types offered, including filets in three different sizes, a 12-ounce New York strip and a choice of dry-aged and conventional Delmonico cuts. Served a la carte, beef options are priced at $38 and up.

Looking for more prestige on your plate? As we toured Marble Room's meticulously organized walk-in coolers, Veres proudly showed off an exceptionally handsome 42-ounce, long-bone Tomahawk steak (it'll set you back $125) and A5 Miyazaki Kobe strip loin (sold by the ounce, $20 per, with a 4-ounce minimum). The raw bar will produce half-shell oysters, sashimi and sushi, and other raw or cooked shellfish. Whole Maine lobster, cioppino, King crab and a small selection of seafood are also available.

After opening day, Marble Room will offer lunch service Monday through Friday.

"We believe in lunchtime," Sinito said. "Midday can be a fun time. A lot happens during the afternoon.

"And I believe in a bar being open throughout the day, all day long," Sinito said. "I don't like to walk into a place at 'cocktail hour' and feel like it's opening cold. It should feel lively and inviting."

As for Sunday service, the space will be closed in order to host private events — anything from gatherings in the trio of interconnected Peacock Rooms on the mezzanine level, to the ballroom above, or the entire main dining room and lounge.

"People travel all over to get married," Sinito said. "When they see this place… talk about a destination wedding."