Ketchup is not only a condiment in itself, but it can be the basis for a number of flavorful sauces. Because it is sweet and spicy and tart with an agreeable mouth-coating texture, it can be used in a variety of preparations as a flavor booster.

It is a base for many barbecue sauces. In England and in the Caribbean, it is mixed with mayonnaise to make Marie Rose Sauce, which is often used as a dip for poached shellfish or conch fritters. It is of course the base of cocktail sauce, in which is mixed with horseradish and lemon juice.

Patrick Miranda, who worked with me at Olivea, and was a sous at Euclid Hall, showed me another variation on a ketchup-based sauce. It combines ketchup with red curry paste, that thick Thai condiment which mixes chiles, galangal, garlic, lemongrass and other seasonings.

Patrick, who not only is a fine cook but also does one of the best Christopher Walken impersonations I have heard, served this sauce with a grilled pork chop and a root vegetable gratin. I tried adding a squeeze of fresh lime juice to red curry ketchup and turned it into a great sauce for raw oysters.

John Broening is a chef at Spuntino and Le Grand Bistro in Denver. E-mail: johnbroening@msn.com.

Red Curry Ketchup

Makes about 1¼ cups.

Ingredients

1 cup ketchup

2 tablespoons red curry paste

Juice of 1 lime

Directions

In a small mixing bowl, vigorously whisk the ketchup and the red curry paste with a whisk until combined.

Gently whisk in the lime juice. Place the red curry ketchup in a container with a resealable lid and refrigerate until ready to use.