There's a new sushi star in town, and you won't find it inside the Loop. Tobiuo Sushi & Bar, which opened quietly in May in Katy, is already earning buzz for its accomplished sushi menu from executive chef Mike Lim, who comes to the project with an enviable sushi pedigree. Here's what people are talking about:

The chef: Executive chef Mike Lim's background includes leading sushi programs at San Francisco and Bay Area restaurants including Aya Sushi, Masu, Kappa Tei, Sushimoto, Barracuda and Hana Zen. Following Hana Zen he was recruited by the Japanese restaurant Morimoto in Napa, where he apprenticed under famed chef Masaharu Morimoto. That led to opening Roka Akor in San Francisco; he also opened the Roka Akor in Houston as corporate sushi chef. The owners of Tobiuo Sushi recruited him earlier this year to open their restaurant at La Centerra in Katy.

The menu: Lim is known for his artfully crafted sashimi and nigiri as well as seasonal dishes, crudo and tartare preparations. Cold dishes include amberjack crudo, aji crudo, scallop ceviche, bluefin tuna tartare and yellowtail tartare. Hot dishes range from green tea buckwheat noodles to bone marrow with pineapple soy and tempura flakes to a whole fried soft-shell crab bun. Lim also has implemented an aging program for fish, similar to dry-aging meats that steakhouses employ, that intensifies flavors.

Take flights: Tobiuo is distinguishing itself from its sushi competitors with special flights; the Uni Flight, for example, features three sea urchin roes from different international waters. There's also the Blue Fin Experience of three different cuts of Spanish bluefin tuna. And a caviar flight of white sturgeon, ossetra and Siberian roe.

Omakase and more: Omakase, or a meal where the chef chooses your order, is available with 24-hour notice. At Tobiuo, Lim will tailor omakase to guest preferences; usually 10 to 12 plates starting at $75. Lim also has instituted a special meal called the Fish Box: a mystery box flown in from Japan's Tsukji Market. The chef will open the box for the first time in front of guests and explain each fish then prepare a three-hour tasting dinner. Reservations are required; see the restaurant's website for details on the Fish Box dinners beginning later this summer.

Critical praise: Houston Chronicle restaurant critic Alison Cook was an early fan. "Sushi chef Mike Lim is the real deal," she wrote, noting that his skills "rival Houston's best, and an omakase meal at his sushi bar is a prime experience."

Tobiuo Sushi & Bar, 23501 Cinco Ranch Blvd., La Centerra, Katy, 281-394-7156. Open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Happy hour daily from 3 to 6 p.m.

Greg Morago writes about food for the Houston Chronicle. Follow him on Facebook or Twitter. Send him news tips at greg.morago@chron.com. Follow him on the podcast BBQ State of Mind to learn about Houston and Texas barbecue culture.