The helpful monument curator also pointed me to two other local landmarks.

First, the Peabody conservatory – a music school which contains a most unexpectedly beautiful, multi-story, working library.

Like many charitable enterprises that share the name – including a housing trust in London – this was founded George Peabody. Peabody had quite the life. He grew up poor in Massachusetts, before making his money in trade in Baltimore. He moved to London and made even more money, founding the bank which became JP Morgan.

At the same time as becoming the farther of philanthropy, he got kicked out of the Reform Club when his home stage of Maryland defaulted on its debt, kept a mistress in Brighton, part-funded the Great Exhibition at Crystal Palace, and gave himself gout. When you’re tired of London…

The other local landmark was also founded by wealthy residents from Baltimore’s rich past. Father and son William and Henry Walters made their money on whisky and railroads – and spent their money acquiring an eclectic mix of artwork from around the world. The young Walters attached a gallery to their house and eventually gifted that plus his collection to the city as a free museum.

Among the stuffed alligators and medieval Flemish weaponry – it is unclear how much of their profits the Walters drank – my favourite object was this 13th century Parisian stained glass window.

The explanatory plaque reads:

‘St Vincent of Saragossa was martyred in Gaul (France) in A.D. 304 under Emperor Diocletian. St Vincent’s arms and legs are locked into a cross-shaped rack, while men tear at his flesh with iron combs. A hand at the upper left commands the torture. St. Vincent suffers calmly.’

It reminds me of Brexit.

Too much culture makes you hungry, so I headed to Lexington market for lunch. A few blocks away from the past luxury of Charles Street, there are more signs of homelessness and Baltimore’s subsequent decline. Still, according to Google the best crab cakes in Maryland are found in the market, at Faidley’s. One patron apparently liked them so much he had his ashes scattered on the floor. I doubt I’ll be going that far.