We’re of course speaking of panettone (pronounced pann-eh-TOH-nee), the traditional Italian bread served around Christmas. The boxed fruitcake lines grocery stores around the world but is deeply rooted in Milanese folklore dating to the Middle Ages.

Image A seasonal treat with Italian origins. Credit... An Rong Xu for The New York Times

One legend of its origin involves a nobleman’s love for the daughter of a baker named Toni. Forbidden from marrying her, the nobleman disguised himself and went to work for the baker, creating a new bread to impress the woman, made with butter, eggs and candied fruit. The bread was such a hit at court, a new dessert was named in its honor — pan del Ton — and the nobleman was allowed to marry the daughter.

Five hundred years later, the boxed version of panettone became widely available. Homemade panettone is notoriously difficult: Butter a couple of degrees too warm can turn the dough to mush.

But the proof of the pudding is in the eating.

“It melts in your mouth and it’s suddenly gone,” one baker told The Times. “And then you want to eat more.”

Remy Tumin contributed reporting.

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