A Crock-Pot is one of the simplest and most trustworthy pieces of home-ec tech there is. Its hallowed history dates back nearly half a century. That ultra-basic interface—High, Low and Warm temperatures, plus a timer—is so foolproof there seems no reason to make it "smarter."

So, when news came in January of a Smart Crock-Pot with Wi-Fi and the ability to be controlled by smartphone, I was thrown for a loop. As an enthusiastic home cook and professional gadget nerd, I welcome new kitchen technologies. But the very...