The Chilean wine industry toasted a major milestone last month as it became the fourth largest exporter of wine in the world, and is now just behind Old World stalwarts France, Italy and Spain.

Chile knocked Australia out of the spot after the International Organisation of Vine and Wine released its rankings based on 2013 data. That also means Chile exports more wine that any New World nation, a group that includes New Zealand, Argentina and the United States.

Australia still makes a lot of wine, but much is consumed by its own citizens. Exports have lagged as upstart wine producing nations crowd the shelves. Australia has had a difficult time convincing wine drinkers to spend more for their wines. Australia makes a range of distinctive, high-quality wines, but many people associate the country with less expensive wines, i.e. Yellow Tail. Australia cut its wine shipments by 12 percent in 2013, ceding the spot to Chile.

Chile hopes to avoid what happened to Australia by promoting the country not as a bargain bin, but as a source of premium wines. To be sure, it is both.

Ever have one of those odd chocolate combinations, like adding cayenne pepper? The richness of chocolate with the heat of a spice is what the red grape carmenere has been compared to. Completely unique among the Bordeaux varieties, carmenere, enjoyed by itself, shows how its idiosyncrasies contributed to the classic blends of Bordeaux.

Carmen Gran Reserva 2010 Carmenere Colchagua Valley smells of dried herbs and cedar with an overripe berry note. Its flavors encompass leafy herbalness, black plum, dark chocolate and paprika combined with a soft finish, offering an excellent example of carmenere. $16.

Carmenere may be the flagship red of Chile but their most planted red is still cabernet sauvignon. Montes 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Valley has more power than grace. It is characerized by a full, fruitful flavor and noticeable tannins on the finish. $14. 1/2

Another reliable Chilean brand is Casillero del Diablo, which usually is priced between $8 and $14.

Take advantage of Chile as it hits the big time.

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DAVID FALCHEK, a Times-Tribune business writer, reviews wines each week. Contact him at dfalchek@timesshamrock.com.