“Purposefully naff, twinkly, 1970s Capri glam” that is completely at odds with the London restaurant scene right now, one reviewer from The Guardian newspaper wrote. “It feels pleasantly deranged,” wrote another for The Evening Standard.

As the traveling circus rolls into town for fashion week, London is sulking under the looming prospect of a chaotic Brexit. But Gloria — an all-but-unspeakably trendy Shoreditch trattoria frequented by style-set types like Alexa Chung and Georgia May Jagger since it opened six months ago — offers a dollop of escapism for hordes of bright young things. Those who are willing to grin and bear the two-hour waiting time for a table, anyway.

The recipe for success at London’s “It” restaurant of 2019 appears to be very simple: More is more is more.