From the first soft bite of blood sausage, I knew I would like Insa.

Just seeing the word “soondae” on the menu of this new Korean restaurant had been enough to get my hopes up. Purplish links of coagulated pigs’ blood bound by rice and an arterial network of springy, skinny cellophane noodles, soondae does not tend to travel far from Korean neighborhoods. Insa sits between a moving company and a mechanic’s garage in an industrial patch of Brooklyn near the Gowanus Canal. The area is not crowded with Korean restaurants or, for that matter, Koreans.

Soondae here? If nothing else, it suggested that Insa had plenty of confidence.

I dragged one dark, purplish slice across a line of salt laced with ground chile and perilla seeds. The seared skin crackled between my teeth: the sign of an animal-gut casing. Blood sausage can sometimes be dry, but Insa’s soondae spilled with tender crumbs that were almost juicy, moistened with braised pigs’ snouts and ground belly meat. The noodles gave it a little bounce but didn’t get in the way of the deep, galvanic taste of iron. It was wonderfully well made, and not quite like any soondae I’d tasted on 32nd Street or on the kimchi belt along Northern Boulevard in Queens.

Insa was opened before Christmas by Sohui Kim and her husband, Ben Schneider. He is the designer, woodworker, decorator of the themed karaoke rooms in back, and propmaster of the retro lounge that’s dressed in David Lynch red. She is the chef.

Mr. Schneider was raised in Manhattan. Ms. Kim moved from Seoul to the Bronx when she was 10. The couple also owns the Good Fork, about two miles away in Red Hook, Brooklyn, where the menu dips its toes into Korean cuisine. The one at Insa dives straight into it.