BAGHDAD -- Iraq has many rich historical sites -- from the ruins of Babylon, to the burial place of Jonah, the prophet who got swallowed by a whale.

However, for safety reasons, U.S. military personnel here don't get to do much travel outside the heavily fortified bases they call home. So the troops look for whatever day trips they can find. One of the busiest tourist stops these days is the bombed-out remains of Saddam Hussein's former presidential grounds.

For...