In Defense of Vallejo

It’s not fair to mock the former capital of California as a crime-ridden cesspool—it’s got a vibe and culture all its own

View of the Vallejo Waterfront taken from Mare Island (photo courtesy of Visit Vallejo)

You can’t even say something positive about Vallejo these days without getting an awkward response. People ask things like, “Isn’t Vallejo dangerous?” or “Didn’t that city go bankrupt?” To which I politely answer, Vallejo has a violent-crime rate that’s half that of Oakland’s, on par with San Francisco — and no, the city isn’t in a perpetual state of bankruptcy. (Vallejo went bankrupt in 2008 during the Great Recession when every city in America was struggling, so to pinpoint Vallejo as some sort of third-world failed state is not only unfair but also ignorant).

Vallejo is the last city in the Bay that feels like it belongs to the working class, eccentrics and creatives.

If you choose to believe the negativity the media churns out about Vallejo, you’re doing yourself a great disservice. That’s because Vallejo, and particularly downtown Vallejo, is fucking awesome. And I have plenty of reasons why.

The Farmers’ Market

Even the Dark Side can’t resist the farmers’ market (photo courtesy of Yelp)

Downtown Vallejo’s weekly farmers’ market is truly one of the Bay Area’s last undiscovered gems. There you’ll find fresh produce, delicious comfort food, live music and all kinds of interesting paintings, sculptures and clothing produced by a variety of local Bay Area artists in an environment that is as diverse and integrated as one might imagine a cafeteria would be at the United Nations headquarters.

Also, the food, drinks and everything else are sold at a fair price. Try saying that with a straight face about pretty much anywhere else in the San Francisco Bay Area. (Note: You can’t.)

Artist Community and the Vallejo Art Walk

Flyer for the Vallejo Art Walk (image courtesy ArtVallejo.org)

Many of the once-empty storefronts that line Georgia Street are now fully functional art studios. Community art spaces like The Hub, Artiszen and others are bringing a creative energy to Vallejo. Vallejo is the last city in the Bay that feels like it belongs to the working class, eccentrics and creatives. It is reminiscent of pre-gentrification San Francisco, if San Francisco were a small town. When you attend events like Poetry by the Bay, you’ll get what I’m talking about.

Sculptures displayed as part of Vallejo’s “Art Window” project downtown

As artists continue to get pushed out of the urban core, it seems that more often than not they end up settling in Vallejo. Nowhere is this more evident than at the Vallejo Art Walk, which takes place on the second Friday of every month.

The art community in Vallejo has been getting lots of media attention these days: it’s gotten a shout-out from KQED, Vice and Magnum by way of prominent photographer and recent Vallejo resident Carolyn Drake. Vice also prominently featured Vallejo in a documentary on the Bay Area’s rap scene.

The Architectural Beauty of Downtown Vallejo Rivals San Francisco’s (And You Can Afford It)

Victorian home in Vallejo

Photo courtesy of the author

The residential areas of downtown Vallejo have perfectly preserved Victorian, Craftsman, Tudor and other classic styles of homes that would cost an unthinkable amount of money to rent in San Francisco or Oakland, but that rent here for $1,600–$2,000 a month.

Yes, you can rent a fucking beautiful Victorian in Vallejo for as much as it costs to rent a tiny studio in the Tenderloin, and it’s only 28 miles from San Francisco, with direct ferry service to the city and multiple buses to BART. You’re welcome.

Explore the Waterfront

Bernie Sanders holding a rally at the Vallejo Waterfront in 2016 (photo courtesy of the “Daily Republic”)

The Vallejo Waterfront functions as the town center. It’s where people go to congregate. The waterfront is Vallejo’s equivalent to Dolores Park, but just way less crowded. It’s a wonderful place to take a leisurely stroll while enjoying a view of the Napa River as it flows into the San Francisco Bay. The rusted cranes across the river on Mare Island give the Vallejo Waterfront a bit of industrial grit that adds an interesting contrast to Vallejo’s natural beauty.

Places to Go in Downtown Vallejo

The Conscious Cup

The interior of the Conscious Cup (photo courtesy of Yelp)

Nathan’s Conscious Cup is an unassumingly hip coffee shop that has paintings from local artists featured on its walls, a record player spinning any genre from jazz to psychedelic rock, and a comfortable vibe from the moment you walk in. The coffee’s great, the food’s delicious, and they also have kombucha. I don’t really know what kombucha is, but you probably do.

Good Day Cafe

Outside the Good Day Cafe (photo courtesy of Yelp)

The Good Day Cafe is a traditional American diner that serves everything you’d expect a traditional American diner to serve. Yet what makes this place stand out isn’t what they serve; it’s how exceptionally delicious the food they serve is. This is one of Vallejo’s most popular spots to get a bite to eat. During the week it’s crowded, and during the weekend, expect to wait 30 minutes to get seated — but between the food and the friendly service, it’s worth it.

Mare Island Brewing Company

Enjoy your brew with a view (photo courtesy of Yelp)

Mare Island Brewing Company is probably my favorite spot in all of Vallejo, if not all of the North Bay. The crowd is always chill, and it’s hard not to be when you have a stunning view of the Napa River to enjoy while sipping a tasty beverage. It’s conveniently located in the Vallejo Ferry Terminal, so if you’re coming from San Francisco, this should be your first stop. Everything on tap here is exceptional, but my personal favorite is Farragut’s Farmhouse Ale. Seriously, it’s one of the best beers I’ve ever had.

Conclusion

Photo courtesy of the author

Downtown Vallejo is a diamond in the rough that is beginning to shine. The beauty, the grit, the diversity and the history of Vallejo make it a truly special place. The city has had a quiet influence on the culture of the Bay Area and an incalculable impact on the Bay Area’s hip-hop culture — it is, after all, the hometown of Bay Area legends E-40 and Mac Dre.

The Mare Island Naval Shipyard served its task of maintaining the world’s most powerful navy, even during trying times like World War II. It also provided jobs to many blue-collar men and women from all over Northern California, regardless of their race.

And this article doesn’t even scratch the surface of all the things downtown Vallejo has going. There are other bars, galleries, bookstores, vinyl-record stores, cafes, restaurants, etc., that I haven’t even had the opportunity to explore. Vallejo is reemerging in more ways than can be imagined. Hollywood is taking notice of its scenic beauty—recently, the popular Netflix show 13 Reasons Why was filmed partly in downtown Vallejo.

Photo courtesy of the author

Vallejo is more than the bankrupt former stomping grounds of the Zodiac Killer — it’s the most diverse city in America, and more importantly, it’s worth your attention.