Adrienne Keene is a citizen of the Cherokee Nation, a postdoctoral fellow at Brown University and the author of the blog “Native Appropriations.” She is on Twitter.

Cultural appropriation is not about a simple "borrowing" of cultural elements or an equal cultural exchange — it's a much more insidious, harmful act that reinforces existing systems of power. Throughout the history of the United States, policies and practices have attempted to forcibly assimilate native peoples and erase our cultures, through government-run boarding schools that had the goal of “Kill the Indian, Save the Man,” and laws that prohibited the practice of native language, spirituality and culture, and more. It wasn’t until 1978 with the passing of the Native American Religious Freedom Act that we were even allowed to legally practice our spirituality or keep sacred feathers, two elements often “borrowed” by outsiders.

The Native American headdress has been 'borrowed' so often that its power and meaning are all but lost to the non-native public.

I often write and think about how these power dynamics play out in the world of fashion. When I, as a native person, walk a store and see racks and racks of products featuring decontextualized “native” designs, with no connection to their communities that have protected and held these cultural markers for centuries, I can't help but think of this history, and wonder when we will have the power to control our own culture. With over 500 tribes in the United States, there is not one “Native American” anything. Each image or design comes from a particular tribe, often even a particular family, and we should have the ability to share, or not share, as we see fit.

The example I often turn to is the "warbonnet"-style headdress seen gracing the heads of everyone from the Paul Frank's monkey mascot Julius, to model Karlie Kloss or last month, Kimberly Stewart (wearing nothing but the headdress on national television). This headdress has been "borrowed" so many times and in so many ways that its original power and sacred meaning have been all but lost to the non-native public.

But for the communities that wear these headdresses, they represent respect, power and responsibility. The headdress has to be earned, gifted to a leader in whom the community has placed their trust. When it becomes a cheap commodity anyone can buy and wear to a party, that meaning is erased and disrespected, and native peoples are reminded that our cultures are still seen as something of the past, as unimportant in contemporary society, and unworthy of respect.

But does that mean that designers, companies and media creators cannot incorporate native elements into their work? Absolutely not. I just ask for partnership, for collaboration and for equal power and control over how our communities are represented. If these entities truly want to "honor" Native Americans, as is often the argument, why not bring contemporary native artists and community members in as collaborators? It comes down to issues of respect and issues of power. Who is benefiting from the “borrowing” of culture? Who has the right to represent an Indigenous community? Outsiders, or the community themselves?



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