BERKELEY, Calif. — Broc Cellars fits hardly anybody’s idea of a California winery. You won’t see any cellars, for one thing, or anything remotely pastoral, like a vineyard. The cellars are a warehouse, on a corner in an industrial district here in Berkeley. Across one street is a cement plant. Across another is a motorcycle-repair shop. The melody of passing freight trains plays every once in a while.

But despite the asphalt vista, Broc, in business less than a decade, produces some of the most invigorating, interesting wines in California today. Some are from familiar grapes: zinfandel, grenache and cabernet franc. Others seem tauntingly obscure: picpoul, valdigué and counoise. Each demonstrates that California, better known for wines of power and amplitude, can also do fresh, thirst-quenching and intriguing exceedingly well.

Broc is a tiny operation. The proprietor, Chris Brockway, works with one assistant, Sam Baron, and gets occasional help from his girlfriend, Bridget Leary (when she is not busy buying Broc for her mother’s wine bar, Four2Nine, in Point Richmond).

But even on this small scale, Broc offers a glimpse into one possible future for the California wine industry, a future that depends on vision, hustle and entrepreneurship rather than, as in Napa Valley, inheritance or making a fortune in another business to finance wine ventures. It’s a vision that may seem cutting edge but in fact is a throwback to California’s past, both stylistically in terms of Broc’s wines and financially, in terms of its shoestring budget.