9b+

Change, Flatanger, Norway, 2012, Adam Ondra (not repeated)

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Adam’s first project in Hanshelleren cave – this route is 55 meters long and can be divided into two pitches. The first pitch is graded 9a+/b and has a bouldering character. When you reach the second half, you can expect a bit easier climbing, which is nevertheless demanding on endurance. With this first ascent, Adam got ahead of Chris Sharma with his many-year project “La Dura Dura”, which they both climbed in 2014 and thus the second route in the world of this difficulty got created. Third and the last route graded as 12 UIAA is “Vasil Vasil” in Moravský Kras area – again, it was made by Adam. As with “Change”, it hasn’t been repeated yet.

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9c

Silence, Flatanger, Norway, 2017, Adam Ondra (not repeated)

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Nowadays, the top of the list is occupied by a 45 meters long roof line in “Adam’s cave.” in Flatanger with circa 60 degrees of inclination. According to adam, it consists of 25 meters of 8b climbing, a kneebar restpoint, then 8C bouldering section, another not really comfortable resting position, and then another 8B boulder.

Some of the moves are so specific that that Adam had to build a special training regime to be able to do them – several months he spent just practicing the individual moves of separate body parts, for example he had to work on his calves. You can find an interview with Adam about this route on: this page.

Is anybody else able to repeat the route? We cannot really come up with specific names in our office; maybe it would be Alex Megos. Will the grading system shift once more? If we look back on history, it is quite probable. Adam is in the best shape yet and he keeps working on himself. But what about us, ordinary mortals? At least we can watch if he would be able to hold the baton and keep ascending as Wolfgang Güllich once did, or if he would get outrun by the new generation.

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AND WHAT ABOUT WOMEN?

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The shifting of grades remains to be a men’s job, however, climbing history was very much influenced by the fingers with polished nails as well. And it would be unfair not to mention these climbers.

Sport climber Lynn Hill won the world’s championship and several times held the title of champion in Rock Masters. The place, where she left the deepest mark in climbing history, however, was the Yosemite granite. In 1993, she became the first human in history to free-climb ”The Nose“ on the famous El Capitan. By this ascent, she has shocked many from the Stonemasters generation, who led the tempo of Yosemite climbing before.

Of course, there are many more women climbers who are definitely not behind her.

In September 2017, a sport climber from the Belgian national team Anak Verhoeven announced that she has sent her project “Sweet Neuf” and suggested the 9a+ grade for it. And girls are pushing it further this year. In November 2017, Austrian climber Angela Eiter became the first female to climb 9b: “La planta de shiva” at Villanueva del Rosario in Spain.

Up to date, the only woman who had ever climbed 9a+ was Margo Hayes, who at 19 climbed two 9a+ routes. The first one was in February 2017 – “La Rambla” in Siruana, originally put up by Alex Huber. And few weeks ago, she added Chris’ “Realization/Biographie”.

Few steps behind her is only 16-yers-oldAshima Shirashi, who wins one junior climbing competition after another since she appeared on the scene. She even got fourth place, in the world climbing championship for adults. The hardest route she climbed is “Redpoint” graded 9a/9a+, first ascended again by Alex Huber. Furthermore, she is the only woman ever to climb a V15 boulder.