It’s the rare wine list that can be all things to all people. Only the most well-financed restaurants have the resources to range freely the world over and present the best of the best. Instead, most wine-conscious restaurants narrow their visions and choose a style or region in which to concentrate.

The selection must complement the cooking. And, ideally, it must convey something significant about the restaurant’s identity and aspirations.

I’m thinking, for example, of the wine list at Marta, which reels you in both with its counterintuitive emphasis on Champagne — “With pizza? Really?” — and with its pricing, which distinguishes it as among the least marked-up Champagne lists in New York. It offers a wide selection of Italian wines as well.

Another restaurant, Wildair, offers a hard-core list of wines grown and made naturally. Within that stylistic realm, which speaks to the wine director Jorge Riera’s passionate belief in the beauty of these wines, Wildair offers a wide variety of grapes from different regions.