THE LAST TIME I VISITED Klein Constantia, one of South Africa's oldest wine farms, I had a long conversation about baboons. I won't go into the details; suffice to say I hadn't appreciated the havoc a hungry troop could cause. Winemaker and owner Lowell Jooste eventually took me outside to show me where he was thinking of installing some high electric fences.

Now, the fences are installed—and pretty much everything else has changed too.

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