Mods: I've run into issues with the character-limit for individual posts here... so editing the previous one to split it out as an "introduction", making this new post the "body" of the guide, and will tack on another one afterwards which will contain the Appendices and follow-up notes. This should also make it all easier to edit to correct mistakes and add more relevant info as it comes to hand... Hopefully it all makes sense in the end. Cheers!

Build Guide #1: "Weasel" foam mini-missiles.

A cheap, safe, compact, durable, accurate, HPA-capable, post-launched, fin/spin-stabilised, home-made alternative to the Demolisher missile.

Required Tools: (absolutely necessary...)

(insert list here...)

Optional Tools: (not necessary but REALLY handy...)

(insert list here...)

Specialist Tools: (not 100% necessary but these will get you the most precise, consistent and maybe faster results...)

* Scales capable of measuring between 0-10 grams in 0.1 gram increments.

* A Drill press with a depth-stop. Don't be put off seeing a lathe in use - a lathe is just a fancy drill-press on it's side.

Weasel Missiles - Materials

(see also "Appendix 1: Alternative Materials")

Weasel Missile: Parts

(names as used in the guide)

Weasel Missile: Dimensions (in mm)

1. FOAM BODY and LAUNCHER-POST

* Ideal Launcher-Post Material:

NZ/AU-spec "ø15.0mm Grey PVC Conduit"

* Ideal Body Material:

"Climaflex 15 x 13" closed-cell polyethelyne foam pipe-insulation (pipe "lagging")

* Alternative Body-Material: "Gorilla" 15x13 polyethelyne foam pipe insulation.

* Other Alternative Materials: see "Appendix 2: Alternative Materials" (below)

Foam Body Preparation:

2. WARHEAD

ø42.0mm EVA Foam Golf Balls:

ø40.0mm EVA Foam Golf Balls:

Warhead Preparation:

Drilling the Warhead Bore



Drill Options:

Customising a drill-bit for boring the warhead:

Holding a half-ball while drilling the bore:

3. FRONT-WEIGHTING

* Ideal Weighting Material: Bostick brand "Blu-Tack" pressure sensitive adhesive

4. INNER SLEEVE

* Ideal Material: 19mm electrical tape - (insert link here)

Making a sleeve-winding Jig:

Having an evenly-spaced spiral marked out on a jig like this isn't 100% necessary but it sure can make life easier - especially once you start

"Left-hand" or "Right-hand" wind-direction: Does it matter at all which way it goes??

Inner Sleeve Preparation:

Winding an inner sleeve:

Sealing the end of the sleeve:

inserted

5. ASSEMBLY

Warhead to body assembly:

Sleeve insertion:

6. FINS

* Ideal Fin Material: ≈50.0mm Duct Tape (Gaffer tape)

Fin Preparation:

Making a Fin-Jig:

Using the Fin-Jig:

7. A final tweak: chamfering the bore-mouth

(WIP...) Build-Guide #2: "LONGWEASEL" missiles

(WIP...) Build-Guide #3: "BLU MEANIE" pneumatically-propelled grenades (PPG's)

"Blu Meanie" (balance-demo)

"Alimental System 2019 snapshot" (incl. shell-launched and RSCB'd Blu Meanies)

...Clockwise from left: i) Weasel missile in a short Absolution shell. ii) LongWeasel missile in a long Absolution shell. iii) long Absolution absolver shell. iv) short Absolution absolver shell. v) Weasel missile.clockwise from left: (hyperlinks are in the main body of the guide - will add links to these ones later...)i. ODø42.0mm "Climaflex" 15 x 13mm closed-cell polyethelyne foam pipe-insulation [body material].ii. "Fuller" hot-glue [body/warhead adhesive].iii. Blu-Tack pressure-sensitive adhesive [front-weighting]iv. Shoe-Goo contact adhesive [fin-adhesive]v. Duct/Gaffer tape [fin-material]vi. 19mm Electrical tape [sleeve-material]vii. ø42.0mm EVA foam practice golf balls (use ø40.0mm balls for Blu Meanies)(insert hyperlink here... Mitre10, Bunnings and Placemakers in NZ all carry it, but - annoyingly - it's not listed on anyone's web-sites. Usually it's found in the electrical section but sometimes it's in plumbing...)* Size: OD: ø16.0mm ID: ≈ø12.4mmThe launcher-post material the Weasels/Blu Meanies are based around is the same grey PVC conduit used as barrelling-material for the Absolution absolver shells. It's cheap, readily available here and has an ideal internal fit for .50 cal foam darts. Doubly handy!(New Zealand):: 1.0m or 5.0m lengths* Bulk Price: ≈NZ$25.00 / 5.0m length* Unit Cost (per 75.0mm): NZ$ 00.38* Size: OD(measured): ø42.0mm ID(nominal): "15.0mm" ID(measured); ≈ ø16.5mm Wall-thickness(nominal): 13.0mmThe image above is of the Climaflex "XT"( ie: split tubing) as that's what's available in NZ. You seal the seam using the pre-attached double-sided tape (works fine so far...) If you can get it, Climaflex "Classic" is the unsplit tubing, which is actually better for our purposes.(New Zealand):: 2.0m length = enough for approx. 30 missiles(insert link here. NB: not available on our local Mitre10's website because they won't freight it - you have to visit the store.)* Bulk Price: ≈NZ$10.00 / 2.0m length* Unit Cost (per missile): NZ$ 00.30(UK):2.0m length = enough for approx. 30 missiles(NB: this link^^ is for the Climaflex "Classic" ie: UN-SPLIT tubing. This is actually better than the split "XT" material as it doesn't need you to re-join the seam, so it remains more resistant to the pressure-blast on firing if not using a sleeve. Again though, you want to check each length for fit so buying on-line is not advisable.)Some stores here carry this instead of the Climaflex 15x13 foam. Same nominal dimensions but noticably different texture and ID/OD in the flesh. This did end up being a good fit to our prefered "grey conduit" post material (and price and weight were acceptable), but the ø40-41mm OD was too small to seal to the IDø41.55mm tubing used for barrel-launching Blu Meanies. You also have to use the ø40.0mm balls for warheads.1)First up, put a new, sharp, full-length blade in your craft-knife and don't use it for anything other than cutting foam ever again. Find or make a blade-guide or a jig you can trust is accurate. A toilet paper roll will do in a pinch, but ideally something you can't cut or nick.2)a 60.0mm long section of IDø41.55mm extruded aluminium tube, cut and finished with both ends at exactly 90˚. Sand or de-burr the inside rim of the open ends so it doesn't snag the foam.1.2.3) Alternative cutting-jig from PVC pipe: Cut the pipe to just slightly longer than your desired finished length (60.0mm for Weasels) then file/sand both ends down to that length, keeping them absolutely square (90˚). (Insert picture of smugly using a shop-sized disk-sander to achieve this...) If the pipe's ID is too small for the foam though you'll be squishing the foam while you cut and it will end up wonky. If you need to, split the completed jig with a hack-saw, clean it up to remove any burrs or sharp edges then hit it with some GENTLE heat from a heat-gun. DO NOT OVERHEAT PVC. It's nasty shit to breathe in. Use something like another piece of PVC pipe as a mandrel to open it up to the right ID. Let it cool with this mandrel still sitting inside, making sure the ends remain square. When finished, it should grip the foam enough to not slip under the knife, but not compress it.3.4) Rough-sizing the foam: Once a missile is completed its foam body-length will be 60.0mm. For now though, cut each foam segment to ≈65.0mm. If your foam has a seam, start there. DO NOT SAW BACKWARDS AND FORWARDS with the craft knife. Just hold the blade parallel to the face of the pipe and gently pull the blade towards you, letting the blade fall through the foam while with your other hand you rotate the top of the jig away from you. Trust you've made the jig accurately, keep holding the blade parallel to the face and don't stop the movement; ideally the blade should end up spiralling through the foam in one continuous cut until it's done.4.4)Insert a length of tubing into the foam's bore (here using some Nerf Modulus barrelling). This holds the foam open while you strip the protective covering off the double-sided tape.5)Taking care not to let the two faces touch prematurely, replace the large tube with a piece of your chosen launcher-post material. Make sure your foam is properly aligned down the seam, then bring the two sides together so the outside surface rejoins smoothly.4.5.6) Seal the seam: With the post still in the bore, pinch tightly all the way down the seam to ensure the every bit of tape from the inside to the outside is firmly adhered.7)At this point you'll need ONE end of the foam cut as square as possible (that's where the warhead will be attached). If necessary, re-cut any dodgey faces (you should be able to shave off a 2.0mm slice easily enough) and mark them as having been squared. Once the body, warhead and sleeve are assembled you'll be trimming the other end of the body down to get it to 60.0mm long, so make sure you leave enough to comfortably slice it again. If you're not confident, make the inital segment-length longer.6.7.* Average Weight:(full ball);(half ball with ø17.0mm x 16.0mm bore)(AliExpress): 30 balls (=60 warheads) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33046411678.html * Bulk Price: NZ$15.29 / 30 x balls* Unit Cost (per misssile): NZ$ 00.25* Average Weight:(full ball);(half ball with ø16.0mm x 16.0mm bore)(AliExpress): 20 balls (=40 warheads) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000016805272.html * Bulk Price: NZ$7.77 / 20 x balls* Unit Cost (per missile): NZ$ 00.19... is very much a feel thing. How you start the cut pretty much determines how you end it. I still haven't worked out a jig that doesn't squash the foam and bind the blade so I just use the thinnest craft-knife I can find (less chance of it getting stuck) with a virgin blade locked at full extension, hold them by hand and ... cut.BE SUPER-CAREFUL CUTTING THESE. Respect that blade and use theImagine what would happen if the item you are cutting were to suddenly VANISH. Where would the blade end up??If it's anywhere near your body, you're doing it wrong. STOP IMMEDIATELY and re-position safely.1) Settle the blade on top of the ball and wiggle it a tiny amount left-and-right to find the absolute highest point the blade will sit at ( = "top-dead-centre").2) Hold your tongue in the right position and cut straight down in one fluid motion. Again, no sawing, just pull towards you. Most likely you won't get through it in one go so once you have a good deep start, rotate the top of the ball away from you as you make the next slice - the blade is kept in the cut and fresh uncut ball is brought up to the cutting edge. You can work your way around the whole ball like this and spiral into the middle, but a well-aimed single cut from the top is what seems to work best.1.2.1)A round-nosed bit isn't a perfect match the outer diameter of the foam ball so won't allow quite as much weight to be packed fully-forward, but it's a damn sight easier to just buy of one of these instead of custom-grinding your own.2) Standard: just your ordinary drill bit, but ø16.0mm. This is probably one of the mos=re expensive options3) ø16.0mm(images to come): If you're using either of these remember the thinnest the foam can be on anywhere on the warhead is 4.0mm. Adjust your bore-depth accordingly.4) ø16.0mm(images to come):5) Customising your own drill-bit (see below...)1) get a cheap 16.0mm spade bit.2) Grind the tip off.1.2.3) Grind the new face in a curve to match the curvature of a circle ≈4.0mm smaller than the outside diameter of the foam ball.4) Re-grind the cutting-faces on each side of the tip, leaving the leading edge on each side as the highest surface (ideally, grind past that notch in the pix...). You'll only ever be drilling into foam with this though so you might not need this detail.3.4.1) image shows a short length of PVC pipe holding a ø42mm warhead with just a press-fit.2) Depending on the pipe's ID though the drilling action may push the warhead into the pipe resulting in inaccurate bore-depth or angle - a 40.0mm ball is too loose so here I've taped a milk-bottle cap into the bottom of the pipe as a stop.3) The resulting jig will hold a ø40mm ball with the "tip" of the ball just touching the cap. The walls of the pipe are left just high enough to grip the foam firmly enough to keep it from moving while still allowing a "quick-change" for the next warhead.1.2.3.4) Holder installed in a lathe to drill out warhead-bore. This is definitely the most precise way to do this, and the more accurately centred the bore the better the final accuracy of the projectile will be. Not everyone's got a lathe though, so the set-up could also be clamped in place under a drill-press or even (with practice...) done by hand.5) There might be a little tuft of foam at the bottom of the bore the drill can't ream out. Twist it off with a pair of needle nose pliers.6) Drill in to leave a MINIMUM of 4.0mm of foam at the tip. For a ø42mm ball this means a maximum depth of 17.0mm; for ø40.0mm balls it means a maximum depth of 16.0mm. The thicker the foam at the tip the longer your projectiles will last and the softer their impact on target, but it also drives the weight-distribution rearwards which affects stability in flight. 4.0mm seems like a good compromise.NB: If you're using anythingthan Blu-Tack for the front-weight (eg: hot glue), leaveof foam up front rather than 4.0mm.4.5.6.(or local equivalent)* Specific Gravity: 1.8(New Zealand):- 75gram pack https://www.kmart.co.nz/product/bostik- ... 75g/695303 * Bulk Price: ≈NZ$2.50 per 75gm (= 25 units)* Unit Cost (per 3.0gm): NZ$ 00.101). It held my teenage universe together, sticking posters onto bedroom walls. Now it has 1002 uses: putting the "Blu" in Blu Meanies (and Weasels...). It's specific gravity is twice that of hot glue so makes for a dense, malleable, cold-workable and above all SAFE front-weight.2) Each weight should be a- maybe slightly more if you're making longer projectiles (eg: LongWeasels) or only using them with quite powerful launchers (4B or gruntier). If you haven't got a set of scales that can measure this accurately you can fudge it and at least keep each weight close to identical by cutting the strip into segments each 24.0mm long (?check this length?).3. Finding that doing each component in batches of 6 allows a bit of practice with each technique. You can try subtle changes, stuff some things up, get better... and in time the over-all consistency improves.1.2.3.4) You could just hold these by hand as you tamp the Blu-Tack into the bore, but I had this nifty doming block so using that. You're applying a fair amount of force during tamping; if you were to do it directly on a bench-top the warhead tip would permanently flatten out. Note: in use, expect the tip of the warhead to flatten slightly after a few impacts. This happens as the weight is slammed up against the sleeve-tip which still has a bit of "give" to it. This doesn't seem to be affecting performance, but not 100% sure about this yet (?check in on this later?)5) Find something to use as a ram to push the Blu-Tack fully into the ø16.0mm bore (using the back of a syringe-plunger here). There'll be air-pockets trapped in there, so keep working it until it's fully compressed.6) A 3.0gm ball should compact down into the ø16.0mm bore to a thickness of about 11.0mm. In a 42.0mm warhead with a 4.0mm front-wall of foam at the tip, this leaves ≈6.0mm of bore exposed behind the weight. The tip of thewill be fitted hard up in here to stop the Blu-Tack from being pushed back when it hits its target..4.5.6.7.with 5.0mm (rather than 4.0mm) of foam-thickness left at the tip and afront-weight (rather than the current 3.0gm). Bored-out warhead weight: 1.25gm, Total warhead weight: 4.5gm. A Weasel with this warhead would still have flown quite well, but even small amounts of extra weight and different balance can add up to noticable changes in performance. This example would be more suitable on a LongWeasel, but less suitable for a Blu Meanie. Again, consistency in your construction will be key to understanding what's going on once you start experimenting with changes.7.Readily available, relatively sticky, waterproof and durable. It'sthough so you need to allow it to "re-shrink" back to it's resting state once it's been pulled off the roll and cut to length. Depending on the stretch, let it settle for at least half an hour before winding into a sleeve.* Size: 19.0mm x 5.0m* Bulk Purchase: (insert link here)* Bulk Price: ≈NZ$2.00 / 5.0m roll = enough for approx. 16 missiles* Unit Cost (per missile): NZ$ 00.12* Average sleeve weight (completed, glued and trimmed):Weasel missile: ??? gmLongWeasel: ??? gmBlu Meanie: ??? gmunwinding and re-winding sections of the sleeve to tweak the "fit" to the post.1) lay 600mm of masking tape face down on a cutting mat (green painter's tape is easier to remove afterwards).2) Trim one edge to straighten.3) Mark at 13.0mm (or if your e-tape isn't 19.0mm wide, 6.0mm narrower than the width of the e-tape...)1.2.3.4) Cut to create a strip of tape 13.0mm wide.5) Spiral-wrap the tape around your chosen launcher-post material. Leave an even 1.0mm-wide gap between the winds.6) Using a permanent marker, entirely colour-in the gap between the tape spirals.4.5.6.7) Remove the tape. The distance between the centre of each "loop" that's left will now be an even 14.0mm.8) & 9) Saw and/or file enough of a groove into the centre of this line to permanently mark the jig.7.8.9.10) Gently sand the jig smooth then clean with methylated spirts. Don't remove too much material from the post as it needs to remain an accurate gauge for how tight the sleeve you're making will be on an actual launcher post.11) Bevel the end of the jig slightly so it can easily slide in and out of a completed sleeve.12) Completed jigs:on the left and (confusingly)on the right.10.11.12.For ease of ammo-loading and to best preserve the sleeve while in use, to a certain extent you want to be "screwing" a finished missile onto it's launcher-post rather than jamming it straight on. If you're squeezing a Weasel into an Absolution shell or some other sort of "barrel", the direction in which your fins are angled determines the direction you want to be twisting the missile to do this. The fin-angle direction will also determine which way the missile will spin once launched. Importantly, if your missile's post-fit is very tight and you're using a twist-lock QD-fitting on something like an Absolution or Alimental shell, the direction you are screwing the missile will have a bearing on whether you are potentially loosening or tightening the connection.So in a round-about way, the direction you want your missile to spin will determine the wind-direction you choose:(on the left in the picture above) if you intend your missiles to spin(viewed from the back moving away from you). Some people find it easier to wind the sleeve-tape this way, and to me the resulting angle of the fins (and clockwise spin in general...) just seems "right". This does mean though that you can potentially end up loosening a shell off the QD fitting as you screw a missile onto the post in the shell. Solution: don't make your missile's inner sleeves so tight ... OR ... don't be so worried about "look" and just use the Left-hand wind-pattern.(on the right in the picture above) if you intend your missiles to spin, and/or if you're worried about the tightness of your post-fit.If you're only making these to launch through a barrel OR if you plan on post-launching but not ever using shells with twist-lock QD-fittings OR you just want to cut to the chase and fire some sweeet, sweet hi-V large-calibre action...Quit yer' fussing and just get on with it.E-tape stretches as it is pulled off the roll, so pre-cut your electrical tape into 330mm lengths and leave to shrink back to it's resting-state. For Weasels, you want to end up with a minimum length ofof fully pre-shrunk tape. This is very important as otherwise your sleeve could eventually shrink to the point it will not fit on the launcher post.1.2.1) Take a pre-shrunk <300mm length of 19mm e-tape, hold one end under your thumb on the jigand set the angle for the spiral wind. The end you start at will become the "tip" of the sleeve (ie: the end that will be at the front of the projectile behind the warhead.)2) Spiral the tape onto the jig with one edge following the groove; a 5.0mm over-lap should happen on the other edge as you wind.3) Wind the first 1 or 2 spirals a little bit tight, then loosen off slightly to an evenly gentle "snug" fit for the rest of the sleeve. This might take several goes until you get the hang of it, trying the fit each time by sliding the sleeve on and off the jig. E-tape can be wound and unwound for this just fine though... another reason why we're using it.1.2.3.is a sleeve that can slide on and off the post with relative ease but which isn't "rattley" (ie: the air pressure stays in and the missile stays aligned as it launches, but without too much friction), where the fit of the sleeve to the post is tightest near the warhead. This tightness should keep the missile from moving off the post just long enough for a good head of pressure to build up (allowing for a more "explosive" launch rather than a damp squib), but it shouldn't be so tight that fully seating the missile down onto the post requires effort.This "tuning" of fit will be a feel thing... and only experience will tell you how well it's working with the particular launcher(s) you have.(apart from those first few tighter coils). As it shrinks back into shape it could result in an unusably tight sleeve that won't fit back on the post. At best it'll make its missile's performance worse with less powerful launchers as it will be more difficult to "blow" it off the end of the launch-post.1) Mark a line 70.0mm from the "front" of your winding jig.2) Slide the pre-wound sleeve back onto the jig enough to fully cover the line (even at the sleeve's shortest part). This is the minimum length needed for a standard Weasel's 60.0mm foam body. The sleeve will extend into the warhead slightly as well and you'll need a little for trimming afterwards at the rear, so it's better to make the whole thing a bit longer and trim it down.3) There should be enough sleeve-material overhanging the leading edge of the jig to allow the sleeve-end to definitely close when it's twisted up.1.2.3.4) Twist the e-tape to close up the sleeve. (Twist in the opposite direction to the wind to prevent it unravelling as you do this.)5) Snip off the excess.6) Immediately apply just enough hot glue to hold the twist together.4.5.6.7) Quickly flatten and chill the hot glue (a steel plate or anvil is handy for this).8) Keeping the jig in there, add more small daubs if necessary. You're not aiming for a seal here (the warhead will provide this) - you want just enough to hold the twist together while itsrammed into the missile's core without adding too much extra mass. Consistent weight in your projectiles is important though, so try to use the same mount of glue for each sleeve. Don't let the glue "mushroom" over the edges of the tip as this will make it tricky to insert. If there are overhangs, carefully snip off the excess once it's cooled (being careful not to cut the tape).7.8.9) Completed inner sleeves, ready for insertion.9.1) Even when carefully cut, a warhead might not have a completely flat back. Same with the leading edge of the body-foam.2) Do a dry-fit of a warhead to the body and rotate to see where the best fit is... you may want to try a few different warheads. A gap the size of the one pictured isacceptable.3) When you find the best orientation, mark at the seam with a soft pencil.1.2.3.4) Apply an even bead of hot-glue equi-distant between the outer rim and the bore. Use a hot-glue gun that can reach decent temperatures (full-sized are better than mini-guns for this). You want the glue fairly liquid so it spreads across the entire surface and hot enough so you have time to centre the head and insert the sleeve before it solidifies. Use just enough glue - the amount pictured here is slightly more than ideal but this is better than too little.5)- things get melty-melty otherwise.4.5.6) Centre the warhead on the body and press home. Note how the heat from the glue allows the body to flare out underpressure; you'll fix that while the glue is still mobile, just as soon as the sleeve is sent home.7) If you're getting this much spill you're using too much glue. Try and avoid handling those sections while you insert the sleeve and pick the excess glue off once it cools to just "tacky". If you've got this much overspill on the outside though it's probably on the inside too and you've GOT to get that sleeve in there before the glue cools.6.7.8) Alternative adhesive:could be used instead of hot glue if you wanted to pre-assemble the warhead+body without having to worry about glue overflowing into the bore and interfering with the sleeve insertion. Shoe Goo adds about the same amount of weight as hot-glue; I've not tried any others but it would be worth measuring and if necessary compensating for as it could be a significant amount. Personally I prefer hot-glue at this join because it makes for a more "solid" feeling projectile. The Fuller hot-glue ends up about as stiff as that on a Demolisher missile. The edges of the join are where you grab it to load/unload; to me it just feels more "definite" and so somehow more accurate (meh... call me crazy).8.Because the sleeve ends up inserted a few millimetres into the warhead's bore it actually acts to centre the warhead to the body. This is why we use a ø16.0mm bore hole there, and part of the reason you want that hole as centred in the ball as possible.1) Before you glue your warhead on, have your sleeve ready to go with the winding-jig (or another piece of post-material) fully inserted in it. Have this handy when you glue that join because you have to insert it quite quickly afterwards.2) You'll be forcefully inserting the sleeve into the bore of the freshly-glued (but still mobile) warhead+body assembly. The reverse-wound e-tape sleeve will obviously be sticky on the outside so you have to do this in* Hold the missile solidly in one hand with the warhead firmly into your palm, or upright, with the warhead hard against a bench-top.* Make sure the warhead is centred on the body.* Line up the sleeve and... just3) The sleeve tip should make it ALL the way into the warhead in one go before any hot glue-overflow in there cools, stopping hard up against the back of the front-weight. This forms a final air-seal for the launcher-post tip and at the same time centres the warhead on the body. As a final thing, leave the winding-jig in the sleeve and go around the still-cooling warhead/body join pinching/pushing/smoothing anything that needs it to make that seam as look as pretty possible. Pretty ≈ better performance :) That "flaring" of the body that you see in image #1 will subside with this action and the natural rebounding of the foam.1.2.3.4) If you're making Weasel missiles, get the 60.0mm foam-cutting jig you prepared earlier.5) Push the missile into the jig until one end is lined up on the warhead/foam seam. Using the same super-sharp blade and spiralling cutting action as before, steady the blade with the other end of the jig and use it to slice through just the outer layers of the body-foam...6)as you cut through the last bit of foam and inner-sleeve, you're going to hit the winding-jig. This will blunten your beautifully-sharp foam-scalpel. Ideally, you'll swap to another knife for this part of the operation.As a last thing: with the winding-jig still in the bore, go around the rear of the body with your fingers, squeezing the foam down onto the sticky inner-sleeve to seat it home onto the tape.4.5.6....(insert link here...)Duct tape is flexible, easy to work, takes the Shoe-Goo well and presents a soft, target-friendly edge on impact - but is still super-durable. Probably every modding workshop has some; if not it's cheap and extremely easy to find. It truly does hold the universe together.thefor each fin was settled on primarily because at that length their tips form a perfect square around the ø42.0mm body-foam, allowing the whole missile to sit, stack and store stabily flat and square.The more surface area a fin has the more they'll deflect air, the faster they'll impart spin and the more drag they'll have. As a starting point, the fins began at this length initially because that was how wide a piece of masking tape was (see below...), but it turns out it actually works pretty well.Also, 3.0+7.0 = 10.0mm... which is a nice round figure to measure out and cut to.having 4 fins allows the missiles to stack square, they're easier to lay out for assembly (viewed from the back, fins directly opposite one another are perpendicularly aligned...) and 4 fins each need a smaller surface-area to impart the same spin as 3 larger ones.* Sure, you're trying to hand-craft identical items here, but DON'T PANIC. These have ended up this shape because it's a straight-forward one to make. Remember: this Isn't Exactly Rocket Science.* That said, you want every fin to be as identical as possible. As a foundation for this you need to ensure they're made* The fins are composed of a dual layer of duct tape adhered face-to-face; best results come from keeping the size of the pieces you are sticking together manageable (ie: don't try to do too many fins at once).* The method described below should get you 8 fins at a time, enough for two Weasels. They'll end up in two matching sets of 4 fins each.* Because these are hand-made there will always be slight differences between fins, but possibly larger differences between. An individual missile will fly best if all of its fins are at least close to identical, so try not to mix and match fins between them. Make, store and install them as a set.1)(L-R): ruler for measuring that also doubles as a (safe) straight-edge for cutting. Sharp craft-knife. Decently-strong scissors are helpful as you'll be cutting through a few layers at a time. Duct tape.2) Using scissors or the craft knife,. Keep the ends relatively square as you'll be trimming them afterwards (picture here shows a single length ≈100mm long about to be cut in half).3) Lie one piece of tape face up on a flat surface and (keeping each piece's weave-pattern oriented the same way) carefully. It doesn't matter if the two pieces are slightly rotated or off centre (you can trim it back), but the resulting double-layer MUST be flat.1.2.3.4) DO NOT FOLD the tape to double it up. You'll end up building a curve into your fins which will then make their missile's performance unpredictable.4.5) Cutting across the original orientation of the tape (ie: edge-to-edge), cut the doubled-up duct-tape into four strips of even-ish width.6) Stack the four strips on top of each other, aligned along one long edge.7) You'll be cutting all of these down at once to 10mm wide.5.6.7.8) Take the aligned stack and trim off the overhanging edges. If you've got a cutting mat, use one of the white guide-lines and make the cut.9) End result: 4 strips 10mm wide x 50-ish mm long.8.9.10. Next, cut each strip in half - but with the cut made at 45˚.10.11) Starting to look like fins! Take one four-fin stack and align their long edges and trailing-edges at the corner you're holding.12) Cut all four strips to the same 45˚ angle at the same time. The long edge of the fins should end up 30mm long. This side will be inserted into a 3.0mm-deep slit cut into the side of the missile's foam-body.13) What you end up with from one sqaure of doubled-up duct-tape: 2 sets of (close-to-identical) fins. As mentioned above, store and install these sets as a unit: don't mix-and-match fins.11.12.13.14) My first try at making them in bulk: 24 sets of fins and 3 dud strips. This was about two hours work - we can definitely improve on that.14.OK, so now we've got four flat, identical(ish) fins. Your Hand-crafting-Foo is getting stronger by the hour. Next... we need to firmly attach these fins into evenly-spaced, evenly deep, identically-canted slots.Again,- it's not that hard.Started out trying to emulate the Demo missile's fin-cant angle. The more angle you give them the faster the missile spins but the more drag there is. Off the launch-post, 16˚of cant will bring a muzzle-blast-affected Weasel into stable flight relatively quickly, but you can see the velocity just getting sucked out of it like going through a wall of jelly. 12˚ cant gives less drag so higher velocities, but is a bit slower getting the spin up to speed so is correspondingly less accurate (they seem to travel in long, slow curves).1) This is the sort of jig you'll end up with: a toilet paper roll with some slits in it. Low-tech, but surprisingly effective.2) Development-testing of differing cant-angles. You can see how the "offset" distance from the top to the bottpm of the tape will change the cant-angle.3)(L-R): i. Fine-tipped permanent marker-pen. ii. Scissors for cutting cardboard. iii. Toilet paper-roll (NB: whatever you use needs to be a good close fit to the body-foam) iv. 1" (25mm)-wide masking tape. The green stuff (painter's tape) isn't too sticky so can be easily removed then re-placed once the angles are marked on it. Not pictured: a set of dividers (see below).4) The loo-paper roll will be wound with an overlap...5) To make the jig last the ditance (hopefully you'll be making a few missiles..), you need to be inserting them from the end pictured here and pushing them out the other end.3.4.5.6) Wrap one turn of tape around the toilet paper roll with about a 10mm overlap.7) Cut through the very middle of the overlap. Make sure you cut through BOTH layers of tape, but not the tube.8) Peel away both sides of the excess tape from the overlap...6.7.8.9) You can see that what's left is one exact wrap around the tube.10) Unwrap the tape and lay flat. Divide the length of tape into four exactly equal parts. The more accurate you can these marks, the better your missiles will fly. A pair of dividers is good here.11) Mark out a 6.0mm offset to set the jig up for a 14˚ cant-angle.9.10.11.12) Use the dividers set to the same measurement and mark the top edge into four equal parts.13) Using the fine marker pen, draw a line between each of the points marked on the two edges. The more evenly spaced and parallel you can make these lines, the better your missiles will fly.14) Result: a jig for a 4-fin missile with a fin cant-angle of 14˚ (using a 6.0mm offset across the 25mm tape). Offsetting to the right like this will induce clockwise spin.12.13.14.15) Rewrap the tape around the tube. Make sure the two ends match up with no gap or over-lap.16) Using scissors, cut through the tape along each of the four lines. The more accurate and parallel those cuts blah, blah, blah...17) As a final thing on the jig, mark a line that's centred between two of the cuts. If your body-foam has a seam this is where it will get aligned to have those two fins placed evenly away from the seam.15.16.17.1) Insert a completed missile into the jig with its rear surface level with the edge of the tape.2) Using the fine marker pen, mark the position of the four cuts onto the rear of the foam. As you make the final cuts into the foam for the fins, you'll be holding the foam flat on its side and using those marks to keep the foam and the blade absolutely vertical.3) When viewed from the back, this is how the fin-alignment should look on a completed missile.1.2.3.4) Create a simple guide on a craft-knife help set the length and depth of cut into the foam. Make sure you use a fresh and sharp blade, and only ever cut foam with it.5)Note that the knife will produce an undercut in the foam to house the leading edge of the fin. Once glued, this will help with the durability of the fin's adhesion - physically retaining the fin in the slot.6)hold the jig flat on its side and set the blade in the first cut on the jig. Align the marks and the blade completely vertically. Slice gently down only 1.0mm or so into the foam at this stage, just to create a precise line to follow once you remove the jig and complete the cut to full depth. Do this for all four fin-slots.4.5.6.7) Remove the jig. If your knife is sharp enough the cut will be waaffer-theen with no divits or tearing of the foam.8) As described in points 2 and 3 above, hold the foam flat on its side, position the blade in the slit, align the marks and the blade completely vertical and finish the fin-slits off, Use the tape-guide on the blade to cutting each slot to an exposed length of 27.0mm and an even depth of 3.0mm.9) To reiterate: the rear of each cut should be exactly alined with the one on the opposite side. This will make sure your fins are all mounted perpendicular to the body at that point.7.8.9.10) Test fitting: Choose one set of four matching fins. Slide a fin up into each of the slots to test for fit.11) Do this with all four slots. Leave the fins in there, ready for gluing. Each slot should be just long enough to recieve the fin. When a fin's trialing edge is aligned with the rear of the body its leading edge should fit snugly up into the undercut portion of the slot with no curling or bunching.12) If that under-cut hasn't been cut completely, get the tip of a super-sharp blade and - following the cut - gently open it up a little.10.11.12.13)Shoe Goo. This has more body than many other contact adhesives so fills gaps better and once cured it has a substantilal amount of flex - meaning it's ideal when you need a join with a bit of "give". It also has a fairly long working-time (8 minutes or so... which we'll need if all four fins require their depth tweaked on assembly).14)Do these one at a time. Don't glue up the next fin until you've got the first one in place. You have two minutes to do each fin (no pressure...)remove the first fin. With a tooth-pick, scoop up a decent glob of Shoe Goo. Be generous, but it does add weight so don't go overboard. As you do them, make sure you apply an even quantity to each of the four slots. Good balance = good flight.15) Insert the toothpick into the front of the slot and pull backwards, effectively trying to wipe the glue off the toothpick onto the foam and into the slot.13.14.15.16) You want to end up with an even bead of glue along the outside of the slot.17) Now you've seen how much glue you've applied, you want ALL of it pushed down into the slot - with special attention paid to the very front (in the undercut) and the very back to make absolutely sure there's enough adhesive there. These are the places where the join is most likely to come away.18) Use the toothpick to clean all the adhesive from the exterior, wiping it off into the slot. It should give the interior a good even coating without oozing back out.16.17.18.19) Re-insert the slot's fin from the back, all the way up into the undercut.20) The rear of each fin should be aligned with the back of the body; Do all this to each of the fins - one by one - until all four are evenly set in place in their slots. At this point, rotate the missile while carefully checking that the outside edge of each fin is parallel with the body, that their exposed widths are the same and that there's no bunching or weird curvature about to be set into them as the adhsive cures.21) As a final thing, re-insert some launcher-post material and go around each of the fins - pinching them hard along their entire length to ensure the fins are fully coated with adhesive and are completely seated against the walls of the slot in the body-foam. Now would be the time to swipe off any excess adhesive that might have overflowed.19.20.21.20. Finished! If everything's gone well, in about 10 more minutes you can go and test you some missiles.22.While this isn't an absolutely necessary feature, even a tiny chamfer here makes the Weasels/Blu Meanies easier to load onto a post and should help prevent the sleeve coming away from the foam.Initially I'd recommend leaving this process out and see how your loading goes. If sleeve/foam de-lamination becomes an issue you can always do it later.1.2.3.4.......END BUILD-GUIDES