Lancashire hotpot, fisherman’s pie, Jane Grigson’s shepherd’s pie: few foods comfort like an old-school potato dish. Luxuriate in these: Rory O’Connell’s roasties, Jeremy Lee’s proper chips and Simon Hopkinson’s sublime saffron mash. Brilliant winter warmers for January days. A little further afield we present Meera Sodha’s saag aloo, Giorgio Locatelli’s gnocchi and Fuchsia Dunlop’s potato slivers with chilli and Sichuan pepper. Potatoes have the ability to heal, I think, whether they’re the Quality Chop House’s signature confit or in Anja Dunk’s heartbreak soup. It uniquely nourishes us, the humble spud, never more than here in our 20 best potato recipes.

If you season the dish well, if you mash the potatoes especially for it, shepherd’s pie can be well worth eating.

So familiar, so seemingly simple, and when good they put a smile on a face as big as can be.

Jeremy Lee’s chips with everything. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

A tortilla welcomes anything, so be adventurous with what you add: peppers, asparagus, leftover roast vegetables.

Tortilla with chorizo by Nieves Barragán Mohacho. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

A simple dish with familiar ingredients, the potatoes come out with a crispy bottom and a soft top.

Malmann’s squashed potatoes by Olia Hercules. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

This legendary dish is something of a labour of love – but it’s worth it.

Confit potatoes by the Quality Chop House. Photograph: Andrew Montgomery

Delicious warm, even better at room temperature. If you can find jersey royals, they are ideal.

Peter Gordon’s minted baby potatoes, peas and creme fraiche. Photograph: Lisa Linder

An easy yet fulfilling dish to make, using just one pot.

Blanche Vaughan’s Lancashire hotpot. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

Cooked to achieve a golden brown crisp skin with a fluffy, floury interior. Bliss.

Roast potatoes by Rory O’Connell. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

If you are going to serve these potatoes with fish, then it is nice to cook them in fish stock.

Simon Hopkinson’s saffron mash. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

Aside from its obvious gustatory charm, the real joy of a fish pie is that you can prepare it well in advance.

Fisherman’s pie by Annie Bell. Photograph: Nassima Rothacker

One of the most famous of Jewish foods, and can be marvellous if properly prepared, just before eating.

Claudia Roden’s potato latkes. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

Spuds and black pudding is the perfect Irish pairing, and out-trends avocado on toast any day.

Black pudding and pink fir hash with duck eggs by Jess Murphy. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

This dish uses a classic Gujarati spicing of cumin, coriander, turmeric and chilli.

Meera Sodha’s rainbow chard saag aloo. Photograph: David Loftus

Elegant and silky, these little clouds of flavour will dissolve in your mouth.

Giorgio Locatelli’s gnocchi with taleggio, radicchio tardivo and walnuts. Photograph: Lisa Linder

Fried potato and cheese cakes, served with a peanut sauce and coriander and chopped tomato salsa.

Claire Thomson’s llapingachos. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

Layer ‘almost’ transparent slices of potato with grated comté cheese, and make a side dish into a main course.

Nigel Slater’s potatoes with smoked garlic and comté. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin/The Observer

Warming, comforting and nourishing. Make extra dumplings to enjoy the next day with hot sage butter.

Simon Hopkinson’s cabbage, caraway and pepper soup with potato dumplings. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

In Sichuanese cuisine, this is the most common method of cooking potatoes, where they remain a little crunchy.

Fuchsia Dunlop’s stir-fried potato slivers with chilli and Sichuan pepper. Photograph: Chris Terry

Push a piece of the truffle butter on top of the potato, finish with parmesan and pop under the grill to melt.

Baked russet potato with black truffle butter by Sam Astley-Dean and Phil Howard. Photograph: Romas Foord/The Observer

It is no coincidence of course that bowl-food is comfort food, and this soup has great healing powers.