Hello. This is my first post on this website, so I‘ll be happy to accept your sound criticism and I hope you won’t be too strict.I decided to design a tri and bought Turnigy AquaStar 3520-1700KV Water Cooled Brushless Outrunner Motor

Product http://www.rcfair.com/en/product/1455582/ which you can see in Figure 1:Figure 1: Turnigy AquaStar 3520-1700KVI was overwhelmed with joy when I eventually got the precious little box. It looked perfect since there was no slackness or any other visible flaws. I could say that was a masterpiece from the Heavenly Empire. However, after checking the cooling system my joy was all ashes.Bleeding showed that the system was depressurized. External and acoustic examination would not help me locate the failure point. Browsing for information about the motor or its parts did not work either, except a Youtube video highlighting the same issue. The the guy had one and the same problem!Finally I decided to take it apart and get at least one tiny step closer to the solution (Figure 2)Figure 2: Disassembling the motorI removed the air cooling system and got to the two locking screws, by which the magnet fixture was attached to the motor shaft. The screws had hexagonal head sockets and turned out to be made of God knows what kind of alloy, because my attempt to unscrew one resulted in the socket taking up a circular form (Figure 3).Figure 3 – The locking screw after my attempt to unscrew it)The second screw shared the same fate. I was outraged!After several days of torment and numerous attempts to hear advice from our website’s hobbyists, I decided to follow through (my special I thanks to Alexander Poltavtzev from Ulan-Ude City).I drilled out the screws with a 2.5mm drill and knocked the shaft out, and Figure 4 shows how deep it was sunk in.Figure 4: knocking out the shaftThe shaft knocked out and the magnet fixture removed (Figure 5).Figure 5: the stator with the windings and the cooling system.(you can see the sunk in internal parts)Then I took the screws out; you can see them set in the lock (Figure 6, 7)Figure 6: Knocking out the screwsFigure 7: The locker screwNow I had to somehow separate the internal part of the cooling system from the external one. I bolted the motor to a plank by the case and tried to pull out (shake out lol) the internal system. You know as well as I did that it wouldn't have worked, because the Chinese connect the parts with a compound, evidently, in an effort to leak-proof the system. However, whether they were pressed into each other or glued together, I had no idea.There was just one option – heating it up! External heating turned out to be less convenient and less effective than internal heating with a gas-heated soldering iron (Figure 8).Figure 8: Heating up the inside of the system via water input holesThe heating lasted 4-5 minutes, and the approximate temperature was 80-90°C. The compound turned into an elastic glue-like substance, and I twisted the internal system out (Figure 9). I wiped the sweat from my forehead, feeling the happiest man on earth. My wife felt even happier except she thought with regret that she should have gotten some popcorn and Coca-Cola for the doggone blockbuster experience:)Figure 10: The separated cooling systemIt turned out that I had bent the lock collar when knocking out the shaft.Figure 11: The damaged lock collarFurther work would consist in rethreading the screw holes (Figure 12).Figure 12: Rethreading the holesThen I reinstalled the shaft and screw-locked it (Figure 13) using screws, which I had bought in some RC store in Moscow about 3-4 years ago.Figure 13: The M3x4 locking screws and a screw in the basecapFixing bushers and the lock collar (Figure 14)Figure 14: The lock collar on the shaft.Attention! It is imperative that you keep to this assembly order!Later, after doing a few must-do things like removing old compound and degreasing parts, I applied rubber adhesive. I did know that I should have used a sealing compound, I just chose the adhesive (Figure 15).Figure 15: The rubber adhesivePreparing parts for gluing (Figure 16). I used Ex-Long CA Ex-Tips (1pc)

Product http://www.rcfair.com/en/product/8463/ and a piece of adhesive tape.Figure 16: The adhesive and the tipFigure 17: Glueing the partsNow we have a fully rebuilt AquaStar 3520 motor with a leak-proof cooling system (Figure 18), plus an extra part))Figure 18: The result of my workI hope this information will help you. Thanks for reading!