National Rosé Day takes place on the second Saturday of June each year. This year, it falls on June 10. Here, Victoria Moore brings you the pick of this year's rosé crop.

Why, you are thinking, is she troubling us with 20 rosé wines? We just want to know about the One: the best, the pinnacle of all rosés, the ethereal elixir that will transport us to the pine-scented Côte d’Azur the instant we set eyes on its voluptuously curved bottle, and turn us into Brigitte Bardot in a tiny white bikini as we take the first sip.

Look, I can’t do that. I’m not talking about the Brigitte Bardot thing: you can probably get there if the bottle is good enough and you finish it. I’m talking about choosing just one bottle. I am picky but there are several exceptional rosés from Provence, all subtly different. It would be a pity to limit yourself to just one of them.