Trip Report Glorious Jamming in Joshua Tree

by

by karodrinker Thursday December 1, 2011 3:21pm

Photos by Ben and Marina Kong





Its now 5:28 am on Sunday morning and Ive just returned from the desert. Parched and cracked lips, grimy broken fingernails, and a sore back from the 9 hour drive cant dampen my enthusiasm. I ran off to Joshua Tree to escape from the normal family Thanksgiving, instead choosing 3 days of monkeying around in a monzonite dreamworld.

Credit: karodrinker

We left San Jose at 9:30 on Wednesday night, aiming for an early Thursday morning arrival. By 5:30 am, we were driving around the Hidden Valley Campground, which like all the other campsites in Joshua Tree was fully packed. Ive never seen so many Sportsmobile Vans in my life. Trolling around Ryan campsite around 6am, we found a site with a tag stating only 1 night reserved. Hoping we could swoop in and take the site later that day, we parked the cars and made coffee. I had been driving since 2 am, after Jarom had driven his 4 and half hour shift while his girlfriend Lucia snoozed away riding shotgun. Ben and Marina had driven behind or in front of us in their hatchback all 450 miles, neither sleeping much at all.



sunrise upon arrival

sunrise upon arrival Credit: karodrinker

As the sun rose and the landscape was revealed around us, I lost all feelings of tiredness and instead felt filled with joy and energy. The campsites were all nestled amongst awesome piles of featured rock, with corridors and caves all around. The flat expanse of the desert spread out before us, evenly filled with thousands of unique, gangly Joshua Trees and hundreds of golden granite islands. A hundred yards away was a pile of huge beautiful boulders, with a large steep rock called the headstone perched right on top. Alone,I scrambled quietly up the rocks above the campground and watched the sun fill the park with light and warmth.



Slowly, campers emerged from their tents. When we saw a man awake inside the tan, lifted Sportsmobile at our hoped for site, we rudely asked if they were indeed leaving that day. He told us he was and we slipped our tag under his at the post, our campsite secured! Jarom and I grabbed our climbing shoes and chalkbags and went to the pile of rocks with the headstone. Fantastic moderate bouldering on gritty, sharp rocks up to 30 feet high. A glorious handcrack with big face holds led up a particularly high boulder offering easy exhilaration. Good climbing seemed to be everywhere.



Our campsite at Ryan

Our campsite at Ryan Credit: karodrinker







We headed over to the Hidden Valley Campground to rope up and climb some classics. Jarom and Lucia climbed the 5.5 Secovar, and Ben and I climbed the 5.7 Jungle, both on Intersection rock. Fun easy climbing up chimneys and finishing with a 20 foot #4 fist crack variation. Across the parking lot over on Chimney Rock, a striking vertical crack in a flaring corner caught my eye. The guidebook called the crack Damper, a 5.9. I racked up 3 #4 camelots and 2 #3s and got to work. Reaching deep into the crack I was able to get decent fist jams while scumming my back against the flaring left side of the climb. Inch by inch, I slowly grunted my way up, learning along the way that Joshua Tree cracks can be strenuous and physical. Jarom followed me up and we set up a top rope on Pinched Rib, a beautiful quartz dike on a vertical wall rated 5.10.



damper

damper Credit: karodrinker

pinched rib

pinched rib Credit: karodrinker



Ben Kong, Turkey Lover

Ben Kong, Turkey Lover Credit: karodrinker

That night a cold wind picked up, forcing me to pull my sleeping bag over my head so as to warm it with my breath. Even with all my warm clothes and my down jacket, it was hard to avoid feeling chilled by the steady blowing wind. Morning came, the sun rose but the wind remained until well after 10. We packed food and went to the Real Hidden Valley climbing area. Jarom and I headed straight for Championship Wrestling, a 5.10 offwidth on the Sports Challenge rock. Using all our big gear, 4 #4s, a #6 and 2 big bros, Jarom fearlessly led up this surprisingly fun climb and I followed. Even the offwidth climbs in Joshua Tree are awesome!



We top roped the 5.11d Cool but Concerned next, and while I pulled on the big jug at the start of the crux the hold broke off, making the climb substantially harder. Next we climbed the 5.10d Hang and Swing on the far right side of Sports Challenge Rocks East Face. Hang and Swing is an awesome zig zagging finger to hand crack with some great face holds as well. So far, the day had been incredible! We then moved into the sun and climbed Sphincter Quits 5.9, an eighty foot, splitter finger crack. We ended the day top roping Whats it to You, the 5.10d to the right of Sphincter Quits. The evening was spent getting to know our campsite neighbors, a lovely couple Dave and Bridgite on one side, and a friendly archaeologist couple on the other. Dave played his guitar, Bridgite talked in her heavy German accent about how much Europeans enjoyed Yoshua Treee.

Credit: karodrinker

At 7am on Saturday morning, our last day, we climbed to the top of the campsite rocks and stretched out with a Yoga session led by Jarom. Shortly after, before breakfast, Jarom and I hurried over to take turns leading Cryptic 5.8 on the Headstone Rock. 4 bolts lead up an exciting arete featuring excellent holds and a fun balancy mantel near the top.



Morning Yoga

Morning Yoga Credit: karodrinker

Cryptic

Cryptic Credit: karodrinker

After breakfast we went back to Sports Challenge Rocks steep overhanging East Face to top rope the 5.10c Clean and Jerk and the 5.12 Leave it to Beaver. Clean and Jerk is quite possibly the best climb Ive done anywhere, offering a challenging boulder problem start to a long, over hanging hand crack, with some great face holds, chimneying and finger locks thrown in. I loved it so much I climbed it 3 times. Next up was the super strenuous Leave it to Beaver. After 3 attempts, Jarom was able to climb through the crux without falling, but lost steam and fell near the top. I worked the climb and learned the moves, hanging many times but reaching the top, fully exhausted.



Looking up Clean and Jerk, quite possibly my favorite climb ever.

Looking up Clean and Jerk, quite possibly my favorite climb ever. Credit: karodrinker

Beginning of Clean and Jerk, lap 1.

Beginning of Clean and Jerk, lap 1. Credit: karodrinker

Laughing my way up perfect jams on my 3rd lap up Clean and Jerk

Laughing my way up perfect jams on my 3rd lap up Clean and Jerk Credit: karodrinker

With the sun setting on the Hidden Valley used a century ago by cattle thieves to hide their stolen herds, I read through the guidebook looking for one more moderate classic crack. The Hidden Tower Rock has a long 5.8 crack called Sail Away that looked like a great way to close the trip. I led up the hundred foot tower as the light from the sun turned everything around me a rich golden hue. The climb was a classic indeed, offering satisfying hand jams and finger jams and easy protection. The small pinnacle summit allowed a view of the entire Hidden Valley.



Sail Away

Sail Away Credit: karodrinker

9 hours later and here I am, back in real life, writing this in the hopes of remembering the details. Joshua Tree filled me with a calm satisfied happiness that I have rarely found anywhere. I hope this feeling lasts forever.



Marina Kong, Ben Kong, Kalen (5th wheel) Glenn, Jarom Feriante, Lucia

Marina Kong, Ben Kong, Kalen (5th wheel) Glenn, Jarom Feriante, Lucia Credit: karodrinker



Story by Kalen GlennPhotos by Ben and Marina KongIts now 5:28 am on Sunday morning and Ive just returned from the desert. Parched and cracked lips, grimy broken fingernails, and a sore back from the 9 hour drive cant dampen my enthusiasm. I ran off to Joshua Tree to escape from the normal family Thanksgiving, instead choosing 3 days of monkeying around in a monzonite dreamworld.We left San Jose at 9:30 on Wednesday night, aiming for an early Thursday morning arrival. By 5:30 am, we were driving around the Hidden Valley Campground, which like all the other campsites in Joshua Tree was fully packed. Ive never seen so many Sportsmobile Vans in my life. Trolling around Ryan campsite around 6am, we found a site with a tag stating only 1 night reserved. Hoping we could swoop in and take the site later that day, we parked the cars and made coffee. I had been driving since 2 am, after Jarom had driven his 4 and half hour shift while his girlfriend Lucia snoozed away riding shotgun. Ben and Marina had driven behind or in front of us in their hatchback all 450 miles, neither sleeping much at all.As the sun rose and the landscape was revealed around us, I lost all feelings of tiredness and instead felt filled with joy and energy. The campsites were all nestled amongst awesome piles of featured rock, with corridors and caves all around. The flat expanse of the desert spread out before us, evenly filled with thousands of unique, gangly Joshua Trees and hundreds of golden granite islands. A hundred yards away was a pile of huge beautiful boulders, with a large steep rock called the headstone perched right on top. Alone,I scrambled quietly up the rocks above the campground and watched the sun fill the park with light and warmth.Slowly, campers emerged from their tents. When we saw a man awake inside the tan, lifted Sportsmobile at our hoped for site, we rudely asked if they were indeed leaving that day. He told us he was and we slipped our tag under his at the post, our campsite secured! Jarom and I grabbed our climbing shoes and chalkbags and went to the pile of rocks with the headstone. Fantastic moderate bouldering on gritty, sharp rocks up to 30 feet high. A glorious handcrack with big face holds led up a particularly high boulder offering easy exhilaration. Good climbing seemed to be everywhere.We headed over to the Hidden Valley Campground to rope up and climb some classics. Jarom and Lucia climbed the 5.5 Secovar, and Ben and I climbed the 5.7 Jungle, both on Intersection rock. Fun easy climbing up chimneys and finishing with a 20 foot #4 fist crack variation. Across the parking lot over on Chimney Rock, a striking vertical crack in a flaring corner caught my eye. The guidebook called the crack Damper, a 5.9. I racked up 3 #4 camelots and 2 #3s and got to work. Reaching deep into the crack I was able to get decent fist jams while scumming my back against the flaring left side of the climb. Inch by inch, I slowly grunted my way up, learning along the way that Joshua Tree cracks can be strenuous and physical. Jarom followed me up and we set up a top rope on Pinched Rib, a beautiful quartz dike on a vertical wall rated 5.10.I had precooked a 20 lb turkey for Thanksgiving, and having whetted our appetites for climbing, we turned our attention towards returning to camp and preparing Thanksgiving dinner. We all ate our fill of turkey, gravy, sweet potatoes, cranberries and lots of pumpkin pie. Sleep came quick and easy at 7pm.That night a cold wind picked up, forcing me to pull my sleeping bag over my head so as to warm it with my breath. Even with all my warm clothes and my down jacket, it was hard to avoid feeling chilled by the steady blowing wind. Morning came, the sun rose but the wind remained until well after 10. We packed food and went to the Real Hidden Valley climbing area. Jarom and I headed straight for Championship Wrestling, a 5.10 offwidth on the Sports Challenge rock. Using all our big gear, 4 #4s, a #6 and 2 big bros, Jarom fearlessly led up this surprisingly fun climb and I followed. Even the offwidth climbs in Joshua Tree are awesome!We top roped the 5.11d Cool but Concerned next, and while I pulled on the big jug at the start of the crux the hold broke off, making the climb substantially harder. Next we climbed the 5.10d Hang and Swing on the far right side of Sports Challenge Rocks East Face. Hang and Swing is an awesome zig zagging finger to hand crack with some great face holds as well. So far, the day had been incredible! We then moved into the sun and climbed Sphincter Quits 5.9, an eighty foot, splitter finger crack. We ended the day top roping Whats it to You, the 5.10d to the right of Sphincter Quits. The evening was spent getting to know our campsite neighbors, a lovely couple Dave and Bridgite on one side, and a friendly archaeologist couple on the other. Dave played his guitar, Bridgite talked in her heavy German accent about how much Europeans enjoyed Yoshua Treee.At 7am on Saturday morning, our last day, we climbed to the top of the campsite rocks and stretched out with a Yoga session led by Jarom. Shortly after, before breakfast, Jarom and I hurried over to take turns leading Cryptic 5.8 on the Headstone Rock. 4 bolts lead up an exciting arete featuring excellent holds and a fun balancy mantel near the top.After breakfast we went back to Sports Challenge Rocks steep overhanging East Face to top rope the 5.10c Clean and Jerk and the 5.12 Leave it to Beaver. Clean and Jerk is quite possibly the best climb Ive done anywhere, offering a challenging boulder problem start to a long, over hanging hand crack, with some great face holds, chimneying and finger locks thrown in. I loved it so much I climbed it 3 times. Next up was the super strenuous Leave it to Beaver. After 3 attempts, Jarom was able to climb through the crux without falling, but lost steam and fell near the top. I worked the climb and learned the moves, hanging many times but reaching the top, fully exhausted.With the sun setting on the Hidden Valley used a century ago by cattle thieves to hide their stolen herds, I read through the guidebook looking for one more moderate classic crack. The Hidden Tower Rock has a long 5.8 crack called Sail Away that looked like a great way to close the trip. I led up the hundred foot tower as the light from the sun turned everything around me a rich golden hue. The climb was a classic indeed, offering satisfying hand jams and finger jams and easy protection. The small pinnacle summit allowed a view of the entire Hidden Valley.9 hours later and here I am, back in real life, writing this in the hopes of remembering the details. Joshua Tree filled me with a calm satisfied happiness that I have rarely found anywhere. I hope this feeling lasts forever.

Trip Report Views: 5,446 karodrinker About the Author

Kalen Glenn is a father, climber, skateboarder and surfer from San Jose, CA.

Comments jfailing



Trad climber PDX Dec 1, 2011 - 03:28pm PT Leave it to Karodrinker... Fun report man - I eyed Sail Away last time I was down there - looks stupendous! Nice sendage, hope you can make it back again soon dourbalistar



climber San Jose, CA Dec 1, 2011 - 05:21pm PT Nice meeting and climbing with you, and thanks for all the hand jamming tips. Also, your turkey was awesome!



-ben. karodrinker



Trad climber San Jose, CA Author's Reply Dec 1, 2011 - 08:17pm PT ben, watching you devour every last bit of turkey made hauling that big bird totally worth it. Jam on turkey lover. bluering



Trad climber Santa Clara, CA Dec 1, 2011 - 08:31pm PT As the sun rose and the landscape was revealed around us, I lost all feelings of tiredness and instead felt filled with joy and energy.

I concur.



I'd recommed some night walks/scrambles through the desert with friends. There are some wild corridors to do too. Jumbo Corridor is cool at night with headlamps after some adult beverages. Ryan has some fun stuff too.



The Headstone is pretty wild.



donini



Trad climber Ouray, Colorado Dec 1, 2011 - 08:32pm PT Nice! I hope to be doing a little jamming there this weekend on my way to my wintering grounds in Patagonia. karodrinker



Trad climber San Jose, CA Author's Reply Dec 1, 2011 - 10:56pm PT Jim, I'm guessing you have already climbed Clean and Jerk, but if not, it has possibly the most enjoyable hand jamming on the planet. Have fun! miss.julienne



climber Grand Junction, Colorado Dec 2, 2011 - 10:09am PT "Come on Jerome you can climb your heart out. You can do it, do it good..."



-Now I've got the damn song stuck in my head for the day.

Nice trip kalen Jarom



Sport climber Palo Alto, CA Dec 2, 2011 - 12:03pm PT Kalen, thanks for documenting the adventures! J Tree was so surreal... can't wait to get out there again! Russ Walling



Social climber from Poofters Froth, Wyoming Dec 2, 2011 - 12:20pm PT Good stuff man! survival



Big Wall climber Terrapin Station Dec 2, 2011 - 02:22pm PT Looks good gang!! looking sketchy there...



Social climber Lassitude 33 Dec 2, 2011 - 02:46pm PT Looks like a great time. rhyang



climber SJC Dec 2, 2011 - 09:25pm PT Looks awesome Kalen ! JohnnyG



climber Dec 2, 2011 - 09:30pm PT awesome...brings back many great memories of t-giving there



also, sweet photo of the trees and stars johntp



Trad climber Punter, Little Rock Dec 3, 2011 - 12:16am PT Nice! Ezra Ellis



Trad climber North wet, and Da souf Dec 4, 2011 - 11:36am PT Sweet, thanks for sharing! mooser



Trad climber seattle Dec 4, 2011 - 11:41am PT I thought at first that this was gonna be a thread about musicians, and I was gonna express my chagrin at not being there.



Great TR! Sounds like you had a stellar time on some stellar routes. You chose some good ones, for sure.



Thanks for the post! dourbalistar



climber San Jose, CA Dec 5, 2011 - 02:02pm PT Our campsite neighbors at Ryan brought a guitar and mandolin, so there was definitely some jamming around the campfire, too. Mungeclimber



Trad climber Nothing creative to say Dec 5, 2011 - 03:03pm PT ++like JEleazarian



Trad climber Fresno CA Dec 5, 2011 - 03:05pm PT The best TR's make me want to drop everything I'm doing and run over there to climb. Yours met that criterion with flying colors.



Thanks for a great report.



John le_bruce



climber Oakland, CA Dec 5, 2011 - 03:32pm PT Like a lot of people on this forum (I'm guessing), I cut my teeth out at J Tree and have always felt something special when I'm there. Like it's hard to force yourself into your sleeping bag at the end of the night - just one more headlamped climb, then one more after that, then a hike under the moon, then...



First time I climbed Clean and Jerk was solo with the Mini-Trax. Was planning to do something less popular, not wanting to clog up such a classic, but was happily surprised to find no one there while walking by. Five, six, seven laps later and still surprised to find at each top out that no one was in the neighborhood. Finished that day with a few laps on an equally empty Coarse and Buggy, before driving back to LA.



Illusion Dweller, Bird of Fire - maybe even better in that same difficulty range.



Batrock



Trad climber Burbank Dec 5, 2011 - 04:57pm PT I climbed the Damper yesterday with Donini, really he soloed it with a rope, set up a TR and I proceeded to grunt and flail my way to the top. I tried doing it keeping hands and feet in the crack and not use any face features but I got my but handed to me and had to resort to using face footholds. Donini is The Crack Master. karodrinker



Trad climber San Jose, CA Author's Reply Feb 24, 2012 - 01:38am PT oh man I'm feelin the pull of the desert... 10b4me



Social climber Lida Junction Mar 12, 2014 - 04:21pm PT bump