The Wendigo kitchen seasons well. Triple vinegar pork ($13) — pork shoulder brined in apple cider vinegar, roasted with white wine vinegar and finished with red wine vinegar — fell to pieces on top of scalloped potatoes, rich but balanced.

A riff on a rib eye sandwich, the pho-rench dip ($9) crunched with pickled sprouts and jalapenos, all smashed inside a hard roll. The au jus tasted exactly like pho; it was good enough to drink by itself.

Similarly, the fried tomato po' boy ($9) barely resembled its Southern namesake. But fried red tomatoes with avocado, remoulade and smoked mushrooms totally worked, even in a soft bun that could have used more "oomph."

Where Wendigo tended to slip was with texture. A trio of trout tacos ($12) desperately needed something crunchy in the wrap. The same problem plagued limp carrot and radish slaw.

Pigs in 'ze blanket ($7), a childhood staple made with puff pastry and homemade sausage, were mildly spicy but too dense, the pastry getting tough toward the inside.

Similarly, flavors were spot on in French onion dip ($5.50), except we couldn't dip anything in it. The caramelized onions were cut too long in a creamy base too thick for bagged kettle chips.