Known as the 'diamonds of gastronomy', truffles are highly sought after by chefs across the world, and more growers are entering the industry in Australia.

Key points: First harvested 20 years ago, Australia is now the fourth largest Perigord black truffle producer globally

First harvested 20 years ago, Australia is now the fourth largest Perigord black truffle producer globally The unique fungi can trade for around $2,500 per kilogram

The unique fungi can trade for around $2,500 per kilogram Truffles are sniffed-out by dogs or pigs, then harvested by hand

Sue Daly, a nurse by trade, never imagined finding herself in agriculture, but loves to hunt for Perigord black truffles at her 360-tree plantation in central Victoria with her two border collie Labrador cross dogs Holly and Abbie.

Australia's first truffle was harvested 20 years ago in Tasmania, but since then the industry has skyrocketed and Australia is now the fourth largest Perigord black truffle producer globally.

Ms Daly said growing the unique fungi does not come without challenges.

"It's a mysterious fungus that's completely unpredictable from one day to the next. We are not quite sure what we are going to find out here," Ms Daly said.

It is worth the effort, however, as truffles can trade for around $2,500 per kilogram.

Ms Daly explained it took about four years after planting the inoculated trees to harvest its first truffles, and about ten years to reach commercial production levels.

"It's a big investment in infrastructure, irrigation and soil structure. We played a long game of patience before we harvested our first truffles," she said.

Ms Daly says growing truffles comes with various challenges. ( ABC Rural: Jessica Schremmer )

Harvesting truffles begins with the work of her specifically-trained helpers Holly and Abbie sniffing were the truffles are, but the truffles are then harvested by hand.

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"So then it's a process of establishing whether they are ready for harvest. That involves getting down on our hands and knees and having a sniff of the soil," she said.

"If we can smell nice, ripe aromatic truffle then we will harvest it."

Ms Daly with specifically-trained truffle hunter Holly sniffs where the truffles are. ( ABC Rural: Jessica Schremmer )

Why chefs love cooking with truffle

Head chef at Sault Restaurant Daylesford, Hugh Maxwell, said it was all about the rarity and uniqueness of the truffle.

Chef Hugh Maxwell says his restaurant only uses truffle when in season. ( Supplied: Jo Okelly )

"It's like eating the earth, in a way, but in a palatable way," Mr Maxwell said.

"It's a mixture between a mushroom and fungi and the ground, with the flavours of wood and oak.

"It's quite nutty, mushroomy, earthy."

He explained they mainly used truffle in heavy dishes with beef, creamy dishes, and dishes with a lot of butter.

"Fat tends to help bring out the aroma of a truffle," Mr Maxwell said.

"It helps to bring out the oils and also reacts really well with the truffle oils itself."

Mr Maxwell appreciates the unique flavour and aroma of fresh truffle. ( Supplied: Jo Okelly )

Mr Maxwell said he appreciated cooking with truffles due to the way it was farmed and the time, effort, and passion that was put into growing the produce.

He said they only used it when it was in season, and his restaurant buys from a local producer.

Not all truffle is sellable

Australian Truffle Growers Association president Peter Stahle noted that not all highly-prized truffle harvested was sellable.

"A lot of the truffle is damaged, doesn't look good or might be not quite ripe," he said.

Ms Daly has to sniff the truffle to see if it is ready for harvest but says not every truffle can be sold. ( ABC Rural: Jessica Schremmer )

Ms Daly estimated she had to throw away about 20 kilograms of truffle a year due to millipedes, snails, and slaters eating the truffle, and infections like truffle rot damaging the fungi.

And despite putting up farm fencing to keep kangaroos and rabbits out, wombats started to tunnel under — creating new ways for the rabbits to get in.

"We realised we lost about 10 kilograms of precious truffle to rabbits getting in well before they [truffles] were ripe," Ms Daly said.

Gaining popularity with Australians

Currently, about 85 per cent of truffle produced in Australia is exported to over 30 countries.

Mr Stahle said growers had an export advantage as they supplied Europe with fresh truffle in their off-season.

Jerusalem artichoke from Sault kitchen garden, Holy Goat cheese, truffle dish. ( Supplied: Jezriel Ganino )

Last year, growers in Australia produced about 13,000 tonnes, but production was expected to ramp up in coming years.

He expected competition from growers in South Africa and South America to develop in the years to come.

"As the community in Australia starts to understand the truffle, they are starting to demand more of it … so domestic consumption, we hope, will rise."

Ms Daly noted it was exciting to see Australian consumers become more aware of truffles.

"The interest is growing, and more Australians are experiencing what we've been missing out on for centuries," she said.



