Our top wine was the 2013 Vel’uveyra from Ronsel do Sil in Ribeira Sacra, a lively wine with savory floral and mineral flavors. It was also our best value at $20. Ronsel do Sil is typical of many of the godello producers. It has been in business only since 2010, and makes a just small amount of wine.

No. 2 was the 2014 Cuvée de O from Bodegas Avancia in Valdeorras, a vivacious wine with flavors of citrus, apples and honeysuckle. Our No. 3 was the 2014 from Bodegas Godelia in Bierzo, a tangy, earthy, textured wine with aromas of flowers and herbs. This wine in particular had notes that reminded me of chenin blanc.

No. 4 was the 2013 Sobre Lías from Bodegas Valdesil in Valdeorras, a rich, floral wine with flavors of apples and minerals. The phrase “sobre lías” indicates that the wine was aged on its lees, which was apparent by its rich texture. The other bottle in our tasting labeled sobre lías was our No. 7, the 2013 Viña Somoza from Valdeorras, which also showed a telltale creaminess, well balanced by good acidity. (Incidentally, the label indication is strictly optional.)

The other wines in our top 10 varied between the taut and tangy, like the 2014 Triay from Monterrei and the 2013 A. Coroa from Valdeorras, and the richer styles, like the 2014 Guímaro from Ribeira Sacra, the 2014 from Palacio de Canedo in Bierzo and the 2013 Cepas Vellas from Bodegas Godeval in Valdeorras.

For now, at least, these wines represent excellent values. Nothing in our top 10 cost more than $25, though the most expensive wine in our tasting — the 2013 As Sortes from Rafael Palacios in Valdeorras — did not make the cut. Nothing was wrong with the $65 bottle; it just did not rise above the others. Other producers worth looking for include Dominio do Bibei and Telmo Rodriguez.

It’s not a bad thing to have a divergence of styles, especially with a new and developing type of wine like godello. You will find this in just about every other genre of wine, so why not godello? Especially since it’s a work in progress.