When I was seventeen, my parents bought the family a camcorder for Christmas. To test it out, I decided to record a music video to the song “Video Killed The Radio Star,” which mostly consisted of me moving slightly while the camera was set to the strobe effect. I wanted to look like I was from the late 1970s (or at least what I thought looked like it), so I put on some hair gel. As I did that, a clump of hair came out from near my temples. It was then I started doing a little research on how to prevent going bald and stopping hair loss, but back in the 1990s, there wasn’t much information available.

I was pretty worried that I was losing my hair. I knew baldness ran in my family, and my barber already said my hair was thin and suggested I would likely go bald. A few clumps of hair didn’t mean much, right?

Fast forward to September 1996 of my freshman year in college, just 9 months later. One day while I was showering in the dank dorm showers, I noticed a lot more hair than usual in the bottom of the shower.

Later that day I looked at my hairline. It looked different than it had back in January. It had receded in the front of my scalp, across my forehead and temples, and a small bald spot was developing in the back.

I was only eighteen. I couldn’t believe I was really starting to go bald. I was only 5’7″-ish, and struggling with my weight at that time, so I didn’t want to add baldness to the list of potential things that helped me stay dateless! My dad went bald at a young age, and I always worried I would be next. And, my twin brother Jonathan was going through the exact same thing (not a surprise).

I have always been proactive, and fortunately the FDA had approved minoxidil for over-the-counter use in early 1996, and it was showing up in stores at this time. I went to the local K-Mart (RIP) and bought a three-month supply of the 2% solution, which was all that was available at the time. A few days later Jonathan did too.

Luckily, since I started using it early enough, that alone caused frontal regrowth as well as growth at the back. And, the shedding stopped. I have used minoxidil 2% since fall of 1996, and my head has just as much hair as it did then. In fact, in recent years, my hair has actually gotten thicker, and I’ll explain how. Jonathan has used the exact same treatment and experienced the same positive results.

I make no guarantees (so consult your doctor!) of general safety or effectiveness for what I list below. It is simply based on my experience since 1996.

I list all the anti-baldness treatments I have used, along with discussion related to them, and they are all available over-the-counter (minus Retin-A), and are cost-effective. Note that the key to effectively stopping and treating hair loss is to catch it early. In fact, a lot of my success is related to the fact that I caught it in its earliest stages.

Minoxidil

I have faithfully used generic 2% minoxidil since 1996. When I started using it, my hair loss stopped immediately, minus some possible initial shedding. Within a few weeks I noticed small, fine, hairs coming in.

Within a few months, I saw normally colored hair growth around my temples and front of my scalp, and I assume in the back as well (since minoxidil has actually been proven to cause growth there). That hair remains to this day (well, not the exact hairs but you get my point).

Without being on sale, minoxidil sells for around $20 for a three month’s supply. Most guys today use 5% minoxidil, which is just as cheap, and more widely available than 2%, but with theoretically more risk of side effects.

The instructions say to use a dropperful (1 ml) twice a day. I am down to once a day (if that) thanks to using other treatments. So, for about $20, I get what amounts to a six month supply. Right now you can get generic 5% minoxidil for under thirty dollars on Amazon, for a six month supply.

I sometimes add Retin-A to my minoxidil because it seems to increase its effectiveness. However, that is only available by prescription. If your doctor will prescribe it, you can add some to your minoxidil bottle.

Minoxidil likely works by bringing more blood to the scalp. It doesn’t address the main cause of male pattern baldness, which involves sensitivity to DHT. This article briefly explains how DHT causes baldness if you want to know. So, minoxidil may result in diminished returns after a while for a lot of users. Also, minoxidil alone may not work for every guy, nor will it work for long periods for every guy.

One side effect of using it regularly is dry scalp. I had extremely dry scalp after using it. The solution? This thing called a “soft pocket palm brush,” which I labelled a “head scraper” back in college. Give your scalp a vigorous once over with it every few weeks to a month, and you’ll notice you’ll pull up a lot of dead skin.

Some people claim other Minoxidil side effects (like increased wrinkling, especially around the eyes), but the fact is that it is a commonly used, over-the-counter drug attests to its general safety. While not risk free, it is generally thought to be safe when used topically. I haven’t experienced any of the side effects, at least not that I know of.

If you are concerned about increased wrinkles from minoxidil, the mechanism by which that happens may relate to collagen destruction. Internal and topical Vitamin C could help with that. I have taken 500-1000 mg of Vitamin C a day basically for the same time I have used minoxidil. I also apply Vitamin C topically (face and scalp) to help prevent any premature aging.

Internal Saw Palmetto And Plant Sterols (Phytosterols)

This small study showed that a combination of saw palmetto and beta-sitosterol (a specific plant sterol) taken internally (I assume) had positive results in treating hair loss. This is because saw palmetto and plant sterols may inhibit 5-alpha reductase, preventing the conversion of testosterone to DHT. I have taken saw palmetto extract since around 2001, and plant sterols since about 2007. I take a daily saw palmetto and sterols a few times a week.

I have noticed no negative side effects from taking these chemicals. Granted, I don’t take a high amount compared to what others do, but I can say that they haven’t negatively impacted me.

Since starting this, I began cutting my minoxidil usage down to once a day, and nothing on my hairline changed. If anything, I saw an improvement in my hair count, so I continue taking them internally.

Topical Saw Palmetto and Plant Sterols

UPDATE: Now with more details!

In 2011 I decided to start applying these elements to my scalp topically. That actually resulted in an expansion of my frontal hairline, for the first time since 1996. For the base of the mix, I combine equal parts filtered water and softened coconut oil or joboba oil (let it melt a little), and sunflower lecithin powder. I now add bioperine/piperine. This is because black pepper extract has been shown to render topical chemicals more effective and is itself a DHT blocker.

This is an example of a one dose application for me. For the first 3 ingredients, it is basically equal parts of all three. Play with the consistency until you get what you want. Also sunflower lecithin powder is by far the most cooperative lecithin available for this (versus soy granules which aren’t good for this). Also I highly recommend plant sterol softgels versus any capsule based ones (Puritan’s Pride’s sterol product is what I use).

Ingredients:

1 tsp coconut oil (softened)

1 tsp filtered water

1 tsp sunflower lecithin powder

5 mg bioperine/piperine

1-2 plant sterol softgels (and also, if desired, saw palmetto)

Mixed tocotrienols softgel (as a preservative and possibly anti-hair loss impact)

Directions:

Heat the water (I put it in the microwave for about 10 seconds).

Dissolve the bioperine tablet in water; stir until it dissolves.

Add coconut oil, lecithin, sterols, and tocotrienols.

Whisk vigorously until it gets the consistency of mayonnaise.

I then apply immediately, and if I am saving some of it, I put it into a glass container with a lid on it in the fridge. I leave it on for about 4-5 hours if possible. It is greasy so don’t go out or touch your head to anything. If I want to cover my whole head, I will heat up a little almond milk (also rich in sterols) and dissolve the cream into that and apply like a shampoo.

UPDATE: in response to a comment to this article, I want to mention that I use coconut oil simply because the solid consistency makes the end product feel more like a commercial cream. Lecithin is an emulsifier, which put simply, allows the water and oil to remain together rather than separating, again providing a more cream-like consistency. Lecithin is also a surfactant, which means it may help the absorption of the active ingredients into the skin.

2019 UPDATE: I have switched out the Vitamin E I had used previously in the formula for mixed tocotrienols (Vitamin E-like chemicals). The reason is explained below.

After using this, my frontal hairline expanded about 1/4 inch, particularly on the front right and left sides near my temple. And, that is using this very lazily, i.e. about once a week.

Nizoral (Ketoconazole)

One study found that this anti-dandruff shampoo may be just as effective as minoxidil in treating hair loss. That doesn’t mean it will be magic, but could be a cheap part of a hair-loss program.

Nizoral is available from Amazon and drug stores. Online advice from successful users seems to be that the OTC concentration (1%) works well. Shampoo with your regular shampoo first, rinse, and apply the Nizoral. Massage in your scalp and leave on for about three minutes. Use it every third day. Sadly, in some people it can cause hair loss, so watch out for that side effect.

I will update this article if I see any noticeable improvement or side effects.

UPDATE: Since the original publication of this article, I have stopped using minoxidil on Nizoral days, effectively reducing my 2% minoxidil down to once a day, 5 days a week. I haven’t noticed any change in my hairline, either better or worse.

Derma Rolling (Microneedling)

This is the newest addition to my anti-hair loss routine (as well as anti-wrinkle). Most people aren’t exactly lining up to stab themselves with little needles, but this is exactly what derma rolling is. The hypothesis is that the process gently stabs the surface of the skin to stimulate blood flow from the capillaries, without actually damaging the skin.

It may sound crazy, but one study found that microneedling + minoxidil was significantly more effective in promoting hair growth than minoxidil alone, in every measure (hair count, hair thickness, etc). In fact, considering that scalp blood flow is significantly lower in those with early male pattern baldness, dermarolling alone may have some benefits.

Here is a link to Amazon’s listing of some derma rollers. In the study, they used the 1.5 mm length roller one time a week. They also applied minoxidil 5% twice a day, waiting 24 hours after derma rolling. Be sure to learn how to use the roller properly, including sterilizing it correctly before and after use. That is beyond the scope of this article.

I highly suggest getting a 1.5 mm roller that has fewer needles (around 192), versus ones with a lot of needles (500+). For example, get one that is 1.5 mm in length, that looks like the image on the right. Anything with more needles/wider won’t have the same impact because of the way they are designed. I noticed this when using a wider one versus a narrower one. The link above provides some that will work.

02/09/2018 Update: I have seen some some fairly significant frontal regrowth since starting derma rolling. The 1/4 inch regrowth line from the sterol cream has gotten noticeably thicker, and expanded, and it seems that hairs in other areas are coming in as well.

Mixed Tocotrienols (Added for 2019)

There is one small study that suggests tocotrienols (chemically a part of the Vitamin E family along with tocopherols) may have an impact on hair loss, when taken internally. I have just started this a month ago, so I will see what happens, but in the study some results were seen after four months, and even more results after eight months. The dose was 100 mg of tocotrienols per day. I have found that this brand is the most reasonably priced.

Topical Caffeine (Added for 2019)

I knew about caffeine as a possible baldness treatment back in 2008. I remember doing a few coffee rinses before bed, which made my hair a little darker which I ended up liking. But I got tired of it and was using other things so I just stopped. However, after doing some research into caffeine a few months ago, I decided to add some caffeine to my hair loss regimen.

This study looks at the evidence and the rationale for topical caffeine. I ended up buying Alpecin shampoo because it seemed to be the best brand for the job, although other options exist. I use it a few times a week.

Here is why I like caffeine and think it may be worth adding. If you look at the study I linked to above, caffeine may stimulate hair growth in ways that minoxidil and DHT blockers do not. While I wouldn’t use it by itself, combined with other treatments, it may promote extra growth.

Azelaic Acid

UPDATE 2020: I finally decided to give topical azelaic acid a try. I have read some of the promising research related to it, in that it might block DHT and also work in other mechanisms. I buy the bulk powder, and then add 6 grams to the 60 ml bottle of minoxidil I use. This creates a 10 percent azelaic acid solution, and it dissolves easily in the alcohol-based minoxidil solution (shake and let it sit for a while first).

What About Finasteride?

So far, I haven’t mentioned Proecia/finasteride in this article. Let me state that I am not against it at all. The main reason I haven’t tried finasteride yet is that I have had no reason to go to something that powerful yet. Also, it wasn’t available when I started losing my hair, and other things have worked for me.

If what I am doing now ever stops working, I’ll be heading to my doctor (or using an online service like Hims or Keep) and asking for finasteride. While side effects are rare, there are people who report serious sexual side effects from using finasteride. If what I am doing is working, side-effect free, then I’ll take the risk of finasteride when that time comes.

Remember, this is just my experience. But, whatever I’m doing, I’m doing it right, for me. I have kept my hair 20 years after seeing it start to recede. A good friend of mine started balding at exactly the same time. He dismissed it. He is completely bald. There is nothing wrong with that, and he owns it perfectly. However, there are things you can do, especially if you catch it early enough!

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