Quad808 Must Stop Buying More Stuff Thread OP

Discussion DJI Dashboard - How To tips and tricks *MAVIC* last edit 7/25/2020

Well...if you are here, you might be thinking....geez...does this guy ever update this info? Don't worry...it's still all relevant, so read on!



I will attempt to keep this up to date (time permitting) with the latest how to's and links for you to get the most out of your DJI craft. Tips and parameter settings will be added to the end of this blog entry.



Ok, before you dive deep down the DJI rabbit hole, go here: https://drone-hacks.com/ I have joined a great team that strives to automate this process and is constantly bringing new hacks to the drone community!! Our long term goals are not only to support all DJI models, but also to support other manufactures of drones as well, such as Autel, and Fimi drones! This app is easy to use, easy to understand what it can and can't do, and even has a WIZARD MODE!! This wizard mode will guide you in what we recommend is best for your drone. Drone-Hacks can do much more than what I have written in this blog. Currently Drone-Hacks can downgrade your firmware without having to unlock it, if it has been downgrade locked by DJI. (all except for the Mavic Pro 2 for now...that one is locked down pretty tightly), with Drone-Hacks you can disable NFZ enforcement and disable height limits with Custom Flight Controller on the most recent firmware for many drones. This is the way to go if you ask me. Don't take the chance to do this manually....it takes a lot of time and effort, and Drone-Hacks can do this for you in minutes....AND you can reverse everything you do to go back to completely stock settings!! FCC mode, RC boost mode for increased RC power, performance mods and you can also obtain root on your drone if you need it for dev purposes for purchasing a professional license. It is well worth the money, and had this been available way back when I created this blog, I would have purchased it in a heartbeat. This application will free up your drone for sure!! Please check it out, and it is free to download and run. For any "hacks" to be done, you will need to purchase a license, but it's not expensive. You owe it to yourself to hack your drone and get the most out of it to enjoy your purchase. Thanks!! BTW you are all invited to join us on SLACK where we hang out...lots of great drone peeps there, and someone is always willing to help you with any questions you have about anything drone related. This is where some very smart people hang out and you can find out just about anything drone related, even very specific hardware or software reversing questions.

Create a SLACK account and come on by: https://join.slack.com/t/dji-rev/sha...8h_8f97F9LbYug





DUMLdore V3. is HERE!!! jezzab has re-written it from the ground up!! FANTASTIC!!

jezzab put a LOT of work into this re-write and now has an ABOUT button where you can show him some love. DO IT.

https://github.com/jezzab/DUMLdore





Well...Look what jezzab and Co. have done.

COMPLETELY REMOVE NFZ FROM CURRENT STOCK FIRMWARE AND Dji GO 4.1.22.

Yes, you read that right.

Go to the end of the blog bitches. Yours truly walks you through it.





YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO DOWNGRADE BELOW V01.04.0100 WITHOUT UNLOCKING FIRST



How to unlock from 1.04.0100 and higher:



Go here:

https://github.com/jezzab/DUMLdore/r...DUMLdoreV3.zip



Get whatever firmware you are downgrading to with this tool:

https://github.com/cs2000/DankDroneDownloader



Watch this EXCELLENT video by digdat0.

DJI Mavic - How to rollback the 1.04.0100 firmware (the one which prevented rollback) (8 min 4 sec)

This one will help if you are having FTP time out issues, and not just for this unlock. You should make this suggested change anyway.

DJI Mavic Rollback - Fixing FTP Access/timeout errors (4 min 46 sec)



ROOT. Not Groot. I said ROOT.

Wuuuut?!! Yup. You got it. Easily done for the masses. This means you. Go to the end of the blog.



*New Mavics are arriving WITHOUT AN INTERNAL SD CARD*

*What does this mean? As of right now, in order to downgrade and FLY WITHOUT the dreaded SD card error on earlier firmware, you will need to open it up and put in a SD card. Newer firmware from 1.03.1000 and up write to the internal memory and NOT to the SD card. Older firmware requires the SD card, so thats the reason for the error when trying to run older firmware. No fix at the moment other than open it up and put in a SD card.* - special thanks to dwallersv and the OG's for help in their detective work to solve this issue.



*If you are only reading this blog and not going to the discussion thread, you are missing out on a lot of new developments. Come on in:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...FFICIAL-THREAD



How to keep your ALL PARAMETERS PAST .700!! Yes this includes EVERYTHING like turning off NFZ and Height restrictions.

Go to the end of the Blog.



Many thanks go to all the hard working people making this possible for us to enjoy our Mavics/Dji craft more than ever!! OG's RULE!!

Freedom always comes at a cost with responsibility. Use it wisely!!





So... You are probably wondering ...How do I go about turning off the DJI NFZ, and getting rid of the Height restrictions? You came to the right place.



Parameter changing: How to

Q. What is the DJI Dashboard? How to I change Parameters like turning off NFZ??

A. The DJI Dashboard is a hidden menu available in the DJI Assistant 2 software, that has been there all along, just hidden by DJI. With access to this menu, you have direct access to your DJI quad to change parameters as you see fit. Be careful what you change.



Q. Is this considered hacking? Or Illegal to access this menu and make changes?

A. Absolutely not. All you are doing is using a keyboard key combination to access the menu. You are not changing any files that DJI installed on your computer. Once you gain access to the Parameters, the settings are not locked down in anyway. You have free access to change them.



INFO:

As of right now there are excellent youtube videos by digdat0 that fully explain how to go about this. I will link them further on down this page.

You are responsible for whatever you do or don't do with this information. Don't PM me for help, ask in this forum.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...FFICIAL-THREAD



Sometime today 6/28/17 DJI pulled firmware from being accessed by users. This was due to the exploit found, but I am not even sure it could be called an exploit, "oversight" is maybe a better word. This is not "hacking". All you are doing is accessing the menu created by DJI themselves for changing parameters on the Mavic, Phantoms and Sparks.



Lets get started.

Things you need as I type this. Windows 7, 8 and 10 have been tested and working. (I used Win10 Pro) Mac works as well, but this guide is for Windows users, since that is what I use. *NOTE* Dji has crippled Assistant V1.1.2 firmware version check in order to try and force you to use the latest version from Dji, which of course, doesn't allow parameter mods. Gee....I wonder why?!!

1. DJI Assistant2 1.1.2

DON'T use the latest version from Dji. This won't work, since DJI doesn't want you doing any of this.

Assistant 1.1.2 MUST detect the Mavic connected to your PC for any of this to work. DJI uses "unsigned" device drivers, and some versions of Windows will not install them, when you install Assistant. Search on how to enable installation of unsigned device drivers for your version of Windows and allow this, then install Assistant, if your drone is not being detected properly.



Go to the installed Assistant directory: C:\Program Files (x86)\DJI Product\DJI Assistant 2\AppFiles

With Notepad++, edit the main.js file. (Notepad++ here:

Look for " // mainWindow.webContents.openDevTools()"

Delete the "// " (slash slash from that line

Save the file

*if you don't want to modify a file to make it easier to access the console, just open Assistant and press CTRL-SHIFT-i

Open DJI Assistant 2 - go to step 7 if you are already on firmware .400, or .700 on the Mavic.

Continue on with modifying parameters to your newly upgraded or downgraded craft. *note* if you have modified the parameters on your craft, then upgraded or downgraded with stock firmware, you will need to change parameters again.

2. Mavic MUST be on .400 /.700 firmware for all parameter changes to work.

3. Once downgraded and the DJI assistant is on your PC(sorry MAC users...I have a PC, but MACs work as well, check the thread).

4. disable internet access just to be safe(optional)

5. Plug in the USB cable to the Mavic and power it up. Once the back lights are flashing in stand by, like its ready to connect to the RC, connect the Mavic to your computer.

6. Right-click the Assistant and run as Administrator - once Assistant starts you should see your connected Mavic on the left side of the screen.

7. Don't connect/click on the Mavic just yet.. do a CTRL-SHIFT-i to open a window in Assistant. (If you did the additional steps in Step 1, the window should automatically open) Click on the Resources tab. Go to Local Storage\file change the debug from 0 to 1 and hit enter so save the change. Now close that window, NOT the Assistant program. Connect to the Mavic.

You should now see the full DJI Dashboard with many more options. From the left menu you can scroll down and go into Parameters. Be extremely cautious on what you change. There are a ton of parameters in there. Again...be careful. Search around the net...you will find the parameters that you need to change. I have example changes below, and will add more as they are discovered. You are on your own, this is now YOUR CRAFT...don't ask me what you need to change for your needs. Hit enter after making any parameter change for it to stick. It writes directly to the craft, so there is no "save" button. You can now go fly and test your changes. Congrats!! You are one step closer to being in control of your own craft.



Fly responsibly! Fly Safe!! Just because you now can, doesn't mean you should - that's all the nanny I have in me!!





GO App patching...what is that all about?!!

*INFO* The Stock Dji GO app is very chatty, and sends back untold amounts of data to Dji. (China) Dji originally sold the Mavics being able to use with just the controller, but now they require you to use them with the GO app, and to sign in to a verified Dji account.



Current DJI GO news…basically with a Patched Dji GO app we can: Remove the need to login with a actual DJI account. See my install notes below. Set the Tx power to FCC mode (US based high power tx) Europe uses a lower power setting, so this is now set at the higher output level. Blocked firmware upgrade check (the Go app no longer knows what firmware you are on) RemoveUpdateForce: This prevents the GO app from locking until you update Blocked ALL communications back to DJI from the app. Allows Here maps to get through, so you can fly with full internet/data enabled Enable Mavic Flight Modes on the Spark Enable P3 Series patch 4.1.3 Enable Wifi Channel Select Included a Windows Patching tool with a nice GUI. PatchAPK.exe Included a download_tools.bat file to get the tool files you need Enabled Quickshots for Mavic. *Shows up in Go app, but doesn't work on .700 firmware. You will need 4.1.14 GO and either 1.03.1000 OR 1.04.0000* *more patches are being worked on, so this list may be incomplete*



I have tried to make this as easy as it gets:



How to create your own patched GO APK for your Mavic, Using Windows

1. Grab the patching files from Bin4ry's git. (GO "OG" Modding Master!!) You should end up with a .zip file. If not, you did it wrong. Click on the green Clone or download button.https://github.com/Bin4ry/deejayeye-modder 2. Unzip to a folder. Look for download_tools.bat and run it. It will download the tools you need and create the folder you need also 3. Now, you should have the following files in your tools folder: Apktool.jar, bspatch.exe, and patch.exe. Check the contents after running download_tools.bat *Some Info*

Although you can patch older versions of Dji GO: 4.1.3, 4.1.8 and 4.1.9, I only recommend patching 4.1.22 NoSecNeo version as of 12/18, or if you need full OTG support, patch 4.1.14. This is what I will focus on here. Why? This is the latest version that the "OG" crew is focusing on, and it works great.

***info** There are two different versions for older APK's, the "1" version and the "2" version number. The "1" version # is for phones and the "2" is for tablets. Currently the NoSecNeo versions are only a "1" version, but works just fine on tablets. (4.1.22 and 4.1.14...if the app doesn't look right, change your devices PPI settings, then launch it again.

GO Versions and what to do...so confusing, or is it??

You have two choices. Use the Stock app and live with DJI madness. Don't complain to me. Or use a "patched" GO version, that allows you to be FREE from DJI data gathering via the GO app. (who knows WHAT they are gathering...you DID allow them to grab all your data in order to use the GO app, remember clicking I AGREE?!!) What a joke.

The GO app continues to evolve with new features etc, so 4.1.22 NoSecNeo is the latest version that has been worked on and made easily patch-able, and what I fly with on a regular basis. This one is a mayjah, mayjah, MAYJAH GO! (props to Flossy Carter) I have used most of the GO versions, and this one is the one you want if you are going to patch. Don't bother with patching the earlier versions, unless you need full OTG support, then patch 4.1.14. This is what I recommend, until a better one comes out that can still be patched.



I only work on Android versions, so these instructions apply only to Android.



What you need: 1. Download the patch-able "mysterious" 4.1.22 GO without SecNeo version here: http://www.openpilotlegacy.org/dji.g...92-noseceo.apk You will use this for patching. 4.1.14 here: [url]http://www.openpilotlegacy.org/dji.go.v4_4.1.14-1027326-noSecNeo.apk[url] Other versions of 4.1.14 or 4.1.22 apks won't work that you can find on the net. Dji in an effort to stop YOU from patching the GO app, put SecNeo into the apk, (Info:https://www.secneo.com/) and we need the "mysterious" version that showed up that has it removed. The newest version, 4.1.22 NoSecNeo has been released for patching. Go here: http://www.openpilotlegacy.org/dji.g...92-noseceo.apk 2. Download the GO Patching program, so you can make your own version, with the patches of your choice. YES...you get to choose the patches you want!! This means you can be assured your GO app has not been tampered with by someone else. Go here: https://github.com/Bin4ry/deejayeye-modder (you may have done this earlier, but this version changes, so its always best to get the latest version, even if you have it already.) Patch info and what they do is in the Patch-Descriptions.txt, located in the Patching folder after you unzip it.

Click on the Green Clone or download button and then click on Download zip. Save this to your desktop. After doing so, right click on it and unzip it. Almost there. 3. Go into the deejayeye-modder-master folder and right click on download_tools.bat and run as Administrator. This will open a window and will download the files you need in order for the patching process to work. The window will close when it's done downloading. 4. Copy dji.go.v4-4.1.22-3028592-noseceo.apk or dji.go.v4_4.1.14-1027326-noSecNeo.apk into the PutApkHere folder. DO NOT MOVE IT. Just copy it. Save the original file for future patching. Now rename it to orig.apk IF YOU DON"T RENAME THE copied dji.go.v4-4.1.22-3028592-noseceo.apk or dji.go.v4_4.1.14-1027326-noSecNeo.apk TO orig.apk THIS WON"T WORK. Only rename the version you are patching 5. Now the fun part. Right-click on the RunMe.bat file and Run as Administrator. Click on yes to allow. This brings up the patching menu where you can choose your patches. Just enter the # of the patch you want and you will see the menu turn from no to yes for that patch. When you are done with your choices, type in P and enter. If you want to know what each patch does, read the Patch-Descriptions.txt, so you know what you are patching. Enter P and be patient. You will get a status when it is finished. 6. Once you are done, your patched GO app will be in the __MODDED_APK_OUT__ folder, and named something like: mod-41.apk. I rename the .apk to include the version # and what patches I use, since you can create GO with different patching options. Example: mod-41_4.1.14_14567_11_12.apk *If you are going to patch again, move this folder out and save it. If you don't it will be overwritten and the contents lost the next time you patch. 7. Uninstall any current GO app loaded on your device. Delete the cache and files, then uninstall the app. Do not try and install this over an installed STOCK version of GO. Remove any DJI folders that you find. Side load this APK onto your Android device, with the device in Airplane mode. Search how to do this if you don't know how. Make sure you save your flight records/videos if you want to keep them from the previous install of GO. If you use the patches I do, this means you will use an off-line bogus login for the GO app, so it won't be your actual Dji account. You will still have flight records. Run for the first time still in Airplane mode. We want the login to time out. Enter a for user and b for pass. Go into the app and set some settings. Exit the app. I usually go and force stop it, then run it again. 4.1.14/.22 runs solid. I have not had errors or crashing at all. Make sure your device is power enough to run GO. Check on the DJI site to find recommended devices. You can now use the GO app on-line or off-line in airplane mode. It is recommended to use it in airplane mode. Just go online with GO and grab the off-line HERE maps for your area. Good to go!

There has been a good group effort to make patches for the NoSecNeo versions, so check back for updates. INFO for experienced users: Using patched 4.1.22, even if you are staying on .700 firmware or below is a wise choice. If you want new features, like Quickshot modes, you will already have the required version of the GO app, so you will then just need to upgrade your firmware. Just remember that .700 (Mavic) and .300 (Spark) are the last STOCK firmware versions to support all Parameter changes, such as disabling NFZ and height restrictions** There is, of course a work around for this, so you can use firmware up to 1.04.0200 as of this update. This is called "mixing modules" Go to the end of the blog. This is more advanced than rolling your own patched GO app

GO 4.1.14 /4.1.22/905 testing

info: NFZ database is in two places, one is on the Mavic, updated by module 905 in the firmware. The other is in the GO app. The GO app is used first and if that can't be accessed, defaults back to the Mavic for NFZ info.



Did some NFZ testing and trying to get rid of popups as much as possible. This is long, so read on if getting rid of DJI's NFZ is important to your situation.

Myself and nocommie in Slack have been doing some work and experimenting on GO, AND rooting the Mavic to delete the 905 NFZ database. He has been getting NFZ popups, even though we removed NFZ from our 4.1.22 and 4.1.14. I went across from the international airport for some testing. Props off, sitting in the car. I used two different devices, both with NFZ removed from the GO app - 4.1.22 and 4.1.14. I used two different Mavics, both on .700. Mavic #1 not rooted so 905 is on there. Mavic #2 rooted, 905 removed. All devices used off-line maps and were in airplane mode at all times. Parameters modded to have NFZ turned OFF.

Results:

#1 Mavic + 4.1.14 - immediate upon connection with RC, RC shows In NFZ. Connect to 4.1.14 GO, warnings about NFZ, Here Map is red. I was able to arm, but immediately Popup saying reduced performance and must update to latest NFZ data. After arming RC going nuts with beeping. Fail.

#1 Mavic + 4.1.22 - same as above, EXCEPT no red on Here map. Fail.

#2 Mavic + 4.1.22/4.1.14 RC connected, shows NFZ very briefly, then disappears once GPS is acquired. (I don't think this is related and may be part of the RC boot up process)Connect to GO. No errors, no popups, no red Here maps...RC - Ready to Fly, Go Ready to fly - Mavic armed. No NFZ warnings, nada. PASS!!



So bottom line: To really be as free from DJI's NFZ as much as we have found you need:



Patched 4.1.22/4.1.14 with NFZ removed, AND rooted Mavic with NFZ files removed. *If you are using NLD, you can do this with the NLD NFZ Removal patch! You need to be on 01.04.0300, or you can stay on 01.03.0700 and TURN OFF NFZ via the checkbox in NLD. If you don't root your drone and remove the nfz.db you will still get warnings(some) but still can fly.* Rooting and removal of the nfz.db only applies to 01.03.0700.



Does this mean that if I don't delete the nfz.db, but I make changes in parameters to turn NFZ off, and I still get all kinds of NFZ warnings, OR I choose to use STOCK GO, Android or iOS I wouldn't have been able to take off? I am sure I would have been able to, but warnings and RC beeping means Fail. This happens because, you have turned off enforcement of NFZ via parameters, but you still have the NFZ DBs so you get all the warnings, but you can still take off.I don't condone flying in legitimate NFZ areas, but if you are like my co-worker who lives on the edge of a wrongly drawn DJI NFZ, you may need to do this to enjoy your craft.



905. I have been telling people to delete it if you are upgrading past very early firmware 01.03..400 with the thinking that if you downgraded back to 01.03.400, then removed module 905 from any higher firmware, you wouldn't have it on your Mavic. This is right and wrong at the same time. If you have upgraded past 01.03.400, you have 905 on your bird. If you have NEVER upgraded past 01.03.400, or have upgraded but have always removed 905 from the firmware, you DO NOT have 905 on your Mavic. It will only have the stock NFZ version.

How do you tell if you have 905? Connect to Mavic with GO...look for the following:

Aircraft Database 01.00.01.05 or higher and/or Basic FlySafe 01.00.01.05 or higher.

If you see either of these versions, you have the latest NFZ on your Mavic. So far there are 4 different versions: 00.00.01.04, 01.00.01.04, 01.00.01.05 and for the poor souls that are on 1.04.0100 firmware, 01.00.01.07.



What does all this mean, if you stay on .700 and turn off NFZ in parameters? Do I have to go through all the above just to turn off NFZ? No, it just means that you will still get warnings and popups, but still can fly.



How to upgrade/downgrade your Mavic/Spark

Now, you can upgrade and downgrade to:

ANY FIRMWARE VERSION YOU WANT TO!!! All this applies to NLD also. And it's automated! https://nolimitdronez.com/



Jeezab's DUMLdore!! Now new version V3!!!



There is an excellent wiki that is available that I am contributing to here:

http://dji.retroroms.info/start



Just to be clear: I did not code or discover any of this. I simply want to document this to make it easier for you to accomplish what you can to get the most out of your bird There are extremely smart individuals working on this in order to free up our Dji products THAT WE OWN. I am proud to be able to contribute in my own small way to help.

READ THE WHOLE PROCESS AND UNDERSTAND IT BEFORE JUMPING IN! You need to have installed a working Dji Assistant version, AND it must be able to detect your Mavic. This is so the correct drivers are installed. Go here to download DUMLdore V3: https://github.com/jezzab/DUMLdore/r...DUMLdoreV3.zip (click on Clone or Download and save the .zip file to your desktop) Unzip DUMLdore V3 to it's own folder. You need ALL THE FILES, not just the .EXE!! Get the firmware files here: http://dji.retroroms.info/howto/firmware.

Here is a good program that will grab the firmware for you too. https://github.com/cs2000/DankDroneDownloader

Click on the green Clone or Download button, then Download Zip. Save it, unzip and run it.

Click on the firmware you want and save it. You will need to click and save each one separately. I would recommend saving them to their own firmware numbered folder, such as .400, .550, .600 etc. There are several firmware files for each version. Get them all for safe keeping.

Now on to the fun part of running DUMLdore V3.00!! Power up the Mavic, but DO NOT CONNECT TO THE PC YET!! *make sure your battery is more than 50%* Let it fully boot up. Now connect to the PC and let Windows discover it. Go to the DUMLdore V3 folder and run DUMLdoreV3.exe as an Admin. You have options - Load Firmware, Flash Firmware, Activate Device, Unlock Device and Pull Upgrade Logs. You will see the status at the bottom of DUMLdore V3. What is "unlock" for? Well Dji in all their infinite wisdom, forced a firmware upgrade on Spark owners and locked the craft if you didn't do the upgrade. You are locked no more. Due to an error on my part, my Spark did just that...locked out of flying, courtesy of Dji. Connected the locked Spark up to DUMLdore, hit unlock and within seconds it was just that...unlocked. This also works to unlock the Mavic. Yes, there have been reports of LOCKED Mavics. No worries, this works.

How to UPGRADE or DOWNGRADE FIRMWARE *NOTE* I highly recommend getting a small fan and directing it onto the Mavic to help with cooling. It can get quite hot, and there have been cases of it locking up during the upgrade/downgrade process. This is a Dji hardware/process error, and has nothing to do with using 3rd party tools. Once the upgrade/downgrade process starts - the drone takes over to complete the process, DUMLdore V3s job is done at that point. It is only there to start the upgrade/downgrade process

Click on Load Firmware. This will load the path of the firmware file to DUMLdore V3. I copied the firmware file directly to my Desktop and renamed. Click on the firmware file. You will get a dialog status box from DUMLdore V3 saying the Firmware file is loaded, and now it AUTO DETECTS if the firmware file is correct for the connected device!!

Click on Flash Firmware. The firmware file will begin uploading. DUMLdore V3 will guide you with a dialog message and status of the uploading file. This is where the work begins. The process for the Mavic takes about 10 to 15 minutes, and is automated at this point. You will see the front red light flash, stay on solid, dim, and flash some more. The fan will come on, and the Mavic gets hot. Ensure you have proper space for airflow to the Mavic and you may want to consider directing a fan on the underside of the Mavic to help with cooling. At one point during the process the fan will turn off and the Mavic can get pretty hot. Be patient. Once the Mavic restarts for the final time, the front red lights are on solid, you are done!! *note* If you want to run it a 2nd time to make sure all modules got updated, you can. The 2nd run through only takes about 3 minutes, and what the process does is error check the various firmware modules to ensure they are the correct version.

Be patient. Once the Mavic restarts for the final time, the front red lights are on solid, you are done!! *note* If you want to run it a 2nd time to make sure all modules got updated, you can. The 2nd run through only takes about 3 minutes, and what the process does is error check the various firmware modules to ensure they are the correct version. DO NOT RUN ASSISTANT AT THE SAME TIME AS DUMLdore V3.00, DUMLdore v3 will show the progresss of the flash AND the firmware version it detects.

*CAUTION* Be patient and wait. If the front red lights are not on solid, then it is still upgrading/downgrading...DO NOT JUST DISCONNECT AND TURN OFF POWER. Let it do it's thing. BE PATIENT

*CAUTION* Be patient and wait. If the front red lights are not on solid, then it is still upgrading/downgrading...DO NOT JUST DISCONNECT AND TURN OFF POWER. Let it do it's thing. BE PATIENT If you are upgrading the controller, same steps. On the controller you can watch the screen change to Connecting, to Upgrading, then back to Connecting and you are done

For the Goggles, follow the same steps. In order to check your firmware version, connect back up to DUMLdore V3. The Assistant we use V1.1.2 will allow you to mod, but will not give you the firmware version anymore. DUMLdore V3 takes care of this for you.



https://nolimitdronez.com and the NLD Mod Client



There is a new program that can do the parameter changes for you, for a small fee. They have now incorporated a custom version of DUMLdore into this app to make life easier for you to upgrade or downgrade your firmware as well as making all parameter changes for you. There is a nice GUI and it is very easy to make the changes needed with this app, instead of using Assistant. You will need Assistant installed to use this app. If all of this seems too hard for you to do, please consider purchasing. This program was created to make it much easier and fully automated for you to make the changes below:



*Big MAHALO to digdat0 for creating such helpful videos for all of us!! Please subscribe to his channel!!*

digdat0 has done it again with a great how to video for you that need to see how it's done.

How-to rollback to any firmware on Mavic, P4, Inspire2, Spark (14 min 17 sec)



How to access the DJI Dashboard from digdat0:

DJI Mavic - How to enable assistant2 dev console to allow debug (1 min 56 sec)

For Mac

HOW TO ENABLE DJI ASSISTANT 2 DEVELOPER CONSOLE TO ALLOW DEBUG MAVIC PRO PHANTOM 4 INSPIRE 2 (1 min 7 sec)

Now that you can get into the full dashboard...what now? Watch these excellent videos from digdat0. digdat0 is adding videos daily. I am linking here just to make it easier for you lazy types. Subscribe to his channel. It's worth it.

Sport+:

DJI Mavic - How to modify flight parameters for Sport mode improvements (2 min 13 sec)

Remove Altitude limit:

DJI Mavic - How to modify flight parameters for altitude ceiling (1 min 45 sec)

GPS+ mode:

DJI Mavic - How to modify flight parameters for faster GPS speed (1 min 18 sec)

Simple Guide to Modifying Mavic, Phantom 4 Pro, Inspire 2 Flight Paramaters

Simple Guide to Modifying Mavic, Phantom 4 Pro, Inspire 2 Flight Paramaters (8 min 53 sec)

Safer Auto Take-Off Mode

Safer Auto Take-Off Mode for DJI Mavic, Inspire2, P4, Spark (2 min 56 sec)

Safer Autoland Mode *Note* only working on .400 Mavic and .300 Spark or older firmware. In order for this to work on higher firmware, you will need to turn off Precision Landing in the GO App *thanks to Porto and the gang at Multicopter Pilots*



Tips and tricks:



Lets talk about dedicated devices for flying:

Looking for an inexpensive screen to use for your Mavic, or Spark that runs the Go app flawlessly?

I have far too many tablets that I have purchased to use for flying. And the Wunderphone. I have:

Amazon Fire:

HD7

HD8 - 2017 *screen is not as good as the HD10, or even the HD7

HD10 - 2017

Nvidia Shield K-1

Wunderphone - Huawei Ascent XT2 (specs here:

Samsung S8, S9



Looking at all of these, which would I use on a regular basis? And why do I have so many?

LOL...'cause I can.



Best, brightest screen...S8 S9, S9+ they are the most expensive. I got tired of taking it out of the case to put in the RC, and the screen is not as big as a tablet.



Shield K-1 - high resolution screen, much better than the Fire HD 8, but I like the Fire HD 10's screen better.. $$ and it's not available anymore. Brighter screen than the Fire HD line 7,8 and 10, but not by much. Sharp, high resolution screen. Has a GPS. But, get this...for the $200 I paid (New) for the K-1, I could have bought both the Fire HD 8 and 10 AND the Wunderphone. Now it's not so much a deal, is it?



HD 7+8. Got this because it was cheap, and wanted to test it out to see if it had the power to run GO seamlessly. It does. Not as locked down as previous Amazon tablets. Expandable memory card slot, supports OTG and easily put Google Play Store on it. Screen is not that bright at all, so sunshade is a MUST for use outdoors. No GPS, but off-line maps work perfectly.



HD 10. Got this because it was a deal, and again...wanted to test with GO. Slightly higher specs than the HD 8. Screen is higher quality than the HD 8, and it's brighter. Big. Really big. Fantastic to fly with, and it fits in the same holder as the HD 8.



Wunderphone. Easily the cheapest grab and go screen. AND ITS A FULL SMARTPHONE, unlike the tablets. Nothing extra needed to use it. No tablet holder, no extra cables (OTG for spark, but thats it) Its fast and bright. Big battery. 720p screen, but you don't notice it as any different than a 1080p screen because it is a small screen. Plenty bright enough to use WITHOUT a sunshade, like the S8/S9. (the S8/S9 is twice as bright in the sun, according to specs) At $49 its a total steal, probably one of the best bargains I have ever seen for the amount of tech you are getting. Actually, any price under $100 is fantastic, considering the price for smartphones now a days. I held out for the At&t version, only because that is my provider...and if I want or need to use this as a phone, I can. Dedicated screen? I wouldn't hesitate to pick up the Cricket version from Walmart, or Target, or the one from Best Buy. Fantastic value. This is THE screen for the Spark with a controller. If you just need to travel light and don't want to use a tablet, and you don't want to use your everyday phone like me and have to take it out of the case in order to fit it in the RC, grab this and go. If this goes on sale again at Walmart, I am jumping on it, you can bet on that. Same phone here:



Here are some parameter settings you can change



Recommended settings from digdat0 and others. These are the settings I use for the Mavic:

#Sport+

g_config_mode_sport_cfg_tilt_atti_range = 43 (35 stock)

g_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_vel_up= 9

g_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_vel_down = -10

g_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_acc_up = 9

g_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_acc_down = -10

g_config_fw_cfg_max_speed = 20

brake_sensitive_gain = 110

g_config_mode_mode_sport_cfg_rc_scale = 1

g_config_control_dyn_tilt_min = 28



#GPS+

g_config_mode_normal_cfg_tilt_atti_range = 25

g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_vel_up = 8

g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_vel_down = -6

g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_acc_up = 8

g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_acc_down = -6



#Height+ *remove height restrictions*

g_config_flying_limit_height_limit_enabled = 2

g_config_flying_limit_limit_height_abs_without_gps = 3000

g_config_flying_limit_limit_height_abs = 3000

g_config_flying_limit_limit_height_rel = 3000



#NFZ Changes *700 and below*

g_config_airport_limit_cfg_cfg_disable_airport_fly _limit = 1

g_config_airport_limit_cfg_cfg_limit_data = 20250910



#Wind- *remove wind warnings*

g_config_air_est_big_wind_level1 = 8

g_config_air_est_big_wind_level2 = 11



#RTH Speed increase

g_config_go_home_gohome_idle_vel = 13



#Turn off Auto Land on low battery *you will get warnings, but will not auto land if the -value is 0*

g_config_landing_auto_landing_vel_L1 = -1 (-1) *L1 sets descend rate below approx. 20m

g_config_landing_auto_landing_vel_L2 = -6 (-3) *L2 sets descend rate above 20m *fast descend rate for 1st stage of Auto landing*

*Be careful with this setting. If you have the value as 0, the quad will just sit there and you need to manually bring it down.*



#Atti Mode (via sport mode button) *this will stick on .700, but will revert to GPS mode on newer firmware*

g_config_control_mode[1] (fswitch_selection_1) 8 = Sport Mode Default

g_config_control_mode[2] (fswitch_selection_2) 7 = GPS Mode Default

Changing either to 6 will add beginner mode on the switch

Changing either to 3 is ATTI so you can either change GPS mode or Sport Mode position to ATTI



Setting that will level your gimbal when you land automatically

g_config_landing_ctrl_gimbal_pitch_to_horiz_enable 1 (0)



Here are my Spark settings I fly with

#Sport+

g_config_mode_sport_cfg_tilt_atti_range = 45 (35 stock) *no change, so leave at stock

g_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_vel_up= 10

g_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_vel_down = -6

g_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_acc_up =10

g_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_acc_down = -6

g_config_fw_cfg_max_speed = 20

brake_sensitive_gain = 150



#GPS+

g_config_mode_normal_cfg_tilt_atti = 40

g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_vel_up = 8

g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_vel_down = -6

g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_acc_up = 8

g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_acc_down = -6



#Height+ *remove height restrictions*

g_config_flying_limit_height_limit_enabled = 2

g_config_flying_limit_limit_height_abs_without_gps = 3000

g_config_flying_limit_limit_height_abs = 3000

g_config_flying_limit_limit_height_rel = 3000



#NFZ Changes *700 and below*

g_config_airport_limit_cfg_cfg_disable_airport_fly _limit = 1

g_config_airport_limit_cfg_cfg_limit_data = 20250910



#Wind- *remove wind warnings*

g_config_air_est_big_wind_level1 = 8

g_config_air_est_big_wind_level2 = 11



#RTH Speed increase

g_config_go_home_gohome_idle_vel = 13



#Turn off Auto Land on low battery *you will get warnings, but will not auto land if the value is 0*

g_config_landing_auto_landing_vel_L1 = -1 (-1) *L1 sets descend rate below approx. 20m

g_config_landing_auto_landing_vel_L2 = -6 (-3) *L2 sets descend rate above 20m *fast descend rate for 1st stage of Auto landing*



#Atti Mode (via sport mode button) *this will stick on .700, but will revert to GPS mode on newer firmware*

g_config_control_mode[1] (fswitch_selection_1) 8 = Sport Mode Default

g_config_control_mode[2] (fswitch_selection_2) 7 = GPS Mode Default

Changing either to 6 will add beginner mode on the switch

Changing either to 3 is ATTI so you can either change GPS mode or Sport Mode position to ATTI



Setting that will level your gimbal when you land automatically

g_config_landing_ctrl_gimbal_pitch_to_horiz_enable 1 (1)



How about getting around the Critical Return to Home problem in Sport+?

Critical RTH workaround:

IN DJI Dashboard go to Flight Settings, then change Battery Type to Non-DJI Battery and Battery Cells to 3s

*caution* This will disable the Mavic from sensing Low battery. Use at your own risk, just like any other change in default settings.

*prelator did a test and write up here:



Change descend rate in GPS mode for faster descend rate, but not as fast as Sport+

normal_cfg_vel_down -3(stock) -6

normal_cfg_acc_down -5(stock) -6



Change the High Wind Warnings so they don't trigger so often (from rford71)

stock

g_config_air_est_big_wind_level1 6

g_config_air_est_big_wind_level2 9

my adjustments

g_config_air_est_big_wind_level1 10

g_config_air_est_big_wind_level2 13

Kilrah recommends:

g_config_air_est_big_wind_level1 8

g_config_air_est_big_wind_level2 11



Smoother Sports mode Yaw

g_config_misc_cfg_follow_gimbal_yaw_sport = 1 (default 0)

Note:

Don’t forget to also set Sport Mode Yaw Exp to a more sluggish value such as 0.20 or 0.15 for the Mavic.



How to keep all parameter changes past .700, including NFZ/Height restriction removal.

Mixing Modules

-EXPERIENCED USERS ONLY-



*UPDATE*

Confirmed. Module 905(NFZ update) is on firmware 500 and higher. If your Mavic has ever been upgraded to firmware higher than .400, using mixed module upgrading and removing 905, will not get rid of 905 already on your Mavic, even if you go back down to .400. It makes no sense to do it, since if the module is currently on the Mavic, and not in the firmware you are flashing, the flashing just skips the module, leaving it installed. Adjust your mixing accordingly. This doesn't apply if your Mavic has never gone past .400. Then removing 905 makes sense if you are mixing firmware and upgrading.** The only way to remove 905 files from the Mavic is by gaining root access.



Ok, heres the scoops. Here is how the Dji firmware works. It is made up of modules, or individual firmware files wrapped up into one. You can open it with 7zip to see all of them.

*All parameter changes are located in the FC (flight controller) software, which are modules 305/306. *

We know that the firmware was changed for the FC to disallow certain parameter changes in firmware above .700, like the ability of turning off NFZ and removing the height restrictions - the two that everyone wants the most. These are located in modules 305 and 306. Those update the firmware for the FC (flight controller). What this means is that you can keep .700s 305 and 306 on the Mavic and update to a higher firmware than .700 and keep all your parameter tweaks, including NFZ and height tweaks. Why does this work? It's because of the way the Dji firmware flashing works. By removing ANY module from the higher, or lower firmware that you are flashing...if the module is not present in the firmware you are flashing, the flashing procedure skips it. Usually only 305,306 and 905 have been removed, keeping the older version, but you can do others as well. Just be careful and ask questions if you aren't sure of what you are doing. It is remotely possible that you could brick the Mavic. Make sense? The parameters stick because you aren't overwriting the 305/306 with new firmware versions of305/306 of the higher version firmware (breaking parameter changing) since they are removed, but you get the benefit of updating other modules to more recent firmware.

Will this cause issues? Not sure yet. Reports are positive and I have done this myself without issues with various modules. The only downside of doing this is that you lose any improvements in the recent firmware that 01.03.0700 didn't have AND lose precision landing. If you are going to do this on a new Mavic Pro/Platinum, you will need to install an INTERNAL memory card. Not the slot in the side. See the section above talking about new Mavics not having the internal memory card.



Here is what I did last night, just for kicks. I took a look at all the firmware versions prior to .700 and looked specifically for module 905. (NFZ updates) They started in .500 firmware. That means that .400 and below had factory NFZ database which is minimal and people had very little problems with it. Using DUMLdore I downgraded to stock .400 from .700, I Checked with assistant and it was on .400. All good in the hood.

Opened .700 with the latest version of 7zip. Went to module 905 and deleted it, then closed 7zip. The other way to do it is to extract the firmware to a folder, delete the module, then using 7zip , create a .tar file with all the files, then rename it with .bin. Both ways work. Here is a 3rd way to do this, If you are on .700 now, just use your backup firmware file you make using DUMLdore, as long as it is a stock full firmware. That works fine to use. Loaded up DUMLdore and upgraded to .700 without the NFZ module 905. Went without any glitches at all, like normal. There are no flight issues or performance issues at all, since this is only the NFZ update. I did a second flash with the same firmware, just as a check of the module versions on the Mavic matched the modules in the firmware flash. The 2nd flash always takes about 3 minutes since it is just checking each module version against the flashing firmware version.



If you have no need for newer features from the latest firmware, there really is no need to upgrade your firmware off of .700. There is a camera fix for 1080/60p that has been discovered starting in firmware .800 for recent Mavics. Possibly after June 2017. To take advantage of this, you will need firmware above .700, but you can mix modules, you don't need to use stock firmware.



*CAUTION* Just be patient and wait. If the front red lights are not on solid, then it is still upgrading/downgrading...DO NOT JUST DISCONNECT AND TURN OFF POWER. Let it do it's thing. BE PATIENT



If you want to keep all your parameter tweaks on any given firmware above .700, make your changes on the lower firmware and then just delete the 305 and 306 and optional 905 from the newer firmware and flash it. The only issue reported to date is that when flashing to 1.04.0000 or 1.03.1000 and keeping .700s 305, 306 - Precision RTH is affected and is not working, even though you can choose it like normal at take off. The craft behaves just like a regular RTH - off by a couple of feet at most. Precision RTH is off by INCHES. If you are using patched GO version 4.1.14 above, you will now have quickshot modes working. It will not work on earlier versions of patched GO, like 4.1.3, 4.1.8 or 4.1.9.



One more thing...If I were to do this again, I would reset all the parameters to default before doing it, just in case the holdup in flashing is caused by non-stock parameters. You are going to have to change them anyway, so it wouldn't hurt to do so. Better safe than have a bricked Mavic because it got stuck.



One more, one more thing. I have done the above...(.700 with no 905 module) and upgraded to 1.04.0300 with 305, 306 and 905 removed. This keeps .700 version of 305,306, but firmware shows up as 1.04.0300. Easily upgrade and downgrade doing this AND keeping all parameter changes. I didn't reset parameters before upgrading, and all parameter changes were the same on the 1.04.0300 firmware. No issues in flight so far, upgrade RC to same 1.04.0300. Easily down-gradable back down to .700 if needed, and keeping the same parameters, since you aren't doing an overwrite of the FC firmware. Good stuff!!! A side benefit of this is the possibility that on your Mavic 1080/60p is fixed if you are on a newer Mavic. There was a hardware change, but date of that change is not certain. Mid 2017 so far has been tested and confirmed.



As always, you are solely responsible for anything you do to your own Mavic or Spark. NOW GO FLY AND ENJOY!!!



HOW TO ROOT

-EXPERIENCED USERS ONLY-



You know you want it. Why? Oh...maybe so you can delete that pesky nfz file that seems to muck everything up.

jcase is the man here, and has made this really easy to do. digdat0 comes through with yet another cool video, so you can see the whole process.

Courtesy of jcase:







It is a commandline program, you run it in java.

If on linux or osx, open terminal

if on windows open command prompt

then java -jar DUMLRacer.jar <mode>



Modes are AC, RC or GL



AC - aircraft

RC - remote

GL - Goggles





After it is done, it enables root and downgrade. Jezzab has implemented the exploit into DUMLdore V3.00 in order to bypass the downgrade lock.

Both races need to be won with DUMLracer, you can check with "adb shell".

The root is most reliable on the 01.04.0100, less so on others. It may take a few minutes to start as well after reboot.



It is "perm", it can be removed if you so wish by doing:



adb shell

mount -o remount,rw /vendor

rm /vendor/bin/*

reboot



Say THANK YOU to jcase: Any donations in excess of the drone cost, will go to Special Olympics!

PayPal Donations - >

Bitcoin Donations - > 1LrunXwPpknbgVYcBJyDk6eanxTBYnyRKN

Bitcoin Cash Donations - > 1LrunXwPpknbgVYcBJyDk6eanxTBYnyRKN

Amazon giftcards, plain thank yous or anything else ->



Excellent video AGAIN by my man digdat0. Show him some love and subscribe to his channel. Remember he also provides custom service for those who need help doing any of this "stuff". https://flyflydrones.com/

DJI Mavic - Defeating the anti-rollback using jcase method in fw 1.04.0100 and 1.04.0200 (5 min 10 sec)



Well...Looky, Looky what we have here...jezzab and Co. have been at it again.

DON'T BE DUMB.

NFZ Removal Tutorial



How to fully remove NFZ from 4.1.22 GO and on your stock firmware drone WITHOUT mixing firmware. These are instructions for MAVIC only for now. Spark, P4., I2 coming soon. Stay tuned. Following these steps will allow you almost the full monty. All performance mods will work, but you still can’t bypass GO Altitude limits, but you can use stock firmware and NOT have to bypass NFZ in parameters. Yes, you read that right. You will be rid of ALL NFZ zones on the map, all of the pop-ups and warnings in the app and be able to arm and fly ANYWHERE! You will have all other benefits of the FW such as Quickshots, Precision Landing etc.



Just to be clear, this project was undertaken to get around DJIs INCORRECT NFZ and Warning zones that they implemented without any legal obligation or requirement.

DON'T DO ANYTHING STUPID IF YOU PROCEED WITH NFZ UNLOCKING! If you do something STUPID like flying around airports or other aircraft etc, everyone involved in this project will do whatever we can to identify you and provide your info to the authorities! DO NOT TEST US!



Tools/software needed:



DUMLdore V3.03:

Latest bin4ry/deejayeye-modder software so you can patch GO and remove the NFZ from the app.

https://github.com/Bin4ry/deejayeye-modder

DDD – DankDrone Downloader -

Latest GO that is patchable:

Jezzabs stage2.bin file ​attached here:



Without getting into the details of what jezzab has done for all of us…here is what you do:



Use DDD and download 01.04.0100/.0200 and or .0300.

Use DUMLdore V3.03 and flash your Mavic to the firmware of your choice in #1. Stock. No mixed firmware, and make sure it is stock, no f’ing around with the files on your bird.

Flash it again, just to make sure, to the same version. No really. Just do it. Stop whining.

Now, close DUMLdore . In the DUMLdore folder you will see the stage2.bin file. Rename this file so the program doesn’t use it. (Example, rename it to stage2original.bin) Replace that file with stage2.bin attached here.

Start up DUMLdore. Hold ALT and click the Load Firmware button and select any firmware file. You will not actually flash the firmware but you must select one to get the process started. Then click on Flash Firmware. You will see stage 1, then stage 2. You will see Completed. Exit DUMLdore and restart device. Then it will change to Flashing complete. Device may be powered off. Exit DUMLdore restart the Mavic and you are DONE. If you flash ANY firmware again, it will put the NFZ back on the Mavic. Then you will need to do steps 4 and 5 again.

Don’t forget to rename the stage2.bin file back, or swap it out again.

Man up and send jezzab some LOVE via PayPal. This means you. All the OG’s work hard. Time to pay back and make someone happy.



Test in an area where you had NFZ warnings before, WITH PROPS OFF. I am NOT telling you to fly in a NFZ. Use your smarts.

You are responsible for your flying. Not DJI.





Excellent resource links provided by Hostile...thanks my man!

Lastest info on DJI Jailbreaking, Rooting, Mods, and Tweaks

I'll repost this here , as referenced in the dji_system.bin repo, this is a good place to start:



For those of you not in the loop, that want to help with the "retention" process regarding control of your DJI aircraft, please familiarize yourself with the following repos:



This represents the front lines of the resistance as it were... "the movement" pretty well begins in all of these individual battle grounds.



























So... that is all! Have fun folks, stop by Slack and see us if you get bored. #android_apk_patching, #archived_fw_flashing, #factory_mode_access, #firm_cache, #hardware, #mavic_rooting, #safety_shaming channels all have something for everyone. If not.. feel free to lurk in #general.



Hope you found this useful!! Well...if you are here, you might be thinking....geez...does this guy ever update this info? Don't worry...it's still all relevant, so read on!Go here:Get whatever firmware you are downgrading to with this tool:Wuuuut?!! Yup. You got it. Easily done for the masses. This means you. Go to the end of the blog.*What does this mean? As of right now, in order to downgrade and FLY WITHOUT the dreaded SD card error on earlier firmware, you will need to open it up and put in a SD card. Newer firmware from 1.03.1000 and up write to the internal memory and NOT to the SD card. Older firmware requires the SD card, so thats the reason for the error when trying to run older firmware. No fix at the moment other than open it up and put in a SD card.* - special thanks to dwallersv and the OG's for help in their detective work to solve this issue.Q.A. The DJI Dashboard is a hidden menu available in the DJI Assistant 2 software, that has been there all along, just hidden by DJI. With access to this menu, you have direct access to your DJI quad to change parameters as you see fit. Be careful what you change.Q.A. Absolutely not. All you are doing is using a keyboard key combination to access the menu. You are not changing any files that DJI installed on your computer. Once you gain access to the Parameters, the settings are not locked down in anyway. You have free access to change them.As of right now there are excellent youtube videos by digdat0 that fully explain how to go about this. I will link them further on down this page.Sometime today 6/28/17 DJI pulled firmware from being accessed by users. This was due to the exploit found, but I am not even sure it could be called an exploit, "oversight" is maybe a better word. This is not "hacking". All you are doing is accessing the menu created by DJI themselves for changing parameters on the Mavic, Phantoms and Sparks.Things you need as I type this. Windows 7, 8 and 10 have been tested and working. (I used Win10 Pro) Mac works as well, but this guide is for Windows users, since that is what I use. *NOTE* Dji has crippled Assistant V1.1.2 firmware version check in order to try and force you to use the latest version from Dji, which of course, doesn't allow parameter mods. Gee....I wonder why?!!DJI Assistant2 1.1.2 https://dl.djicdn.com/downloads/dji_...(b21de8d8).zip Assistant 1.1.2 MUST detect the Mavic connected to your PC for any of this to work. DJI uses "unsigned" device drivers, and some versions of Windows will not install them, when you install Assistant. Search on how to enable installation of unsigned device drivers for your version of Windows and allow this, then install Assistant, if your drone is not being detected properly.Go to the installed Assistant directory: C:\Program Files (x86)\DJI Product\DJI Assistant 2\AppFilesWith Notepad++, edit the main.js file. (Notepad++ here: https://notepad-plus-plus.org - just get it. Great program for editing.Look for " // mainWindow.webContents.openDevTools()"Delete the "// " (slash slash from that lineSave the file*if you don't want to modify a file to make it easier to access the console, just open Assistant and press CTRL-SHIFT-iOpen DJI Assistant 2 - go to step 7 if you are already on firmware .400, or .700 on the Mavic.Continue on with modifying parameters to your newly upgraded or downgraded craft. *note* if you have modified the parameters on your craft, then upgraded or downgraded with stock firmware, you will need to change parameters again.Once downgraded and the DJI assistant is on your PC(sorry MAC users...I have a PC, but MACs work as well, check the thread).disable internet access just to be safe(optional)Plug in the USB cable to the Mavic and power it up. Once the back lights are flashing in stand by, like its ready to connect to the RC, connect the Mavic to your computer.Right-click the Assistant and run as Administrator - once Assistant starts you should see your connected Mavic on the left side of the screen.Don't connect/click on the Mavic just yet.. do a CTRL-SHIFT-i to open a window in Assistant. (If you did the additional steps in Step 1, the window should automatically open) Click on the Resources tab. Go to Local Storage\file change the debug from 0 to 1 and hit enter so save the change. Now close that window, NOT the Assistant program. Connect to the Mavic.You should now see the full DJI Dashboard with many more options. From the left menu you can scroll down and go into Parameters. Be extremely cautious on what you change. There are a ton of parameters in there. Again...be careful. Search around the net...you will find the parameters that you need to change. I have example changes below, and will add more as they are discovered. You are on your own, this is now YOUR CRAFT...don't ask me what you need to change for your needs. Hit enter after making any parameter change for it to stick. It writes directly to the craft, so there is no "save" button. You can now go fly and test your changes. Congrats!! You are one step closer to being in control of your own craft.Fly responsibly! Fly Safe!! Just because you now can, doesn't mean you should - that's all the nanny I have in me!!*INFO* The Stock Dji GO app is very chatty, and sends back untold amounts of data to Dji. (China) Dji originally sold the Mavics being able to use with just the controller, but now they require you to use them with the GO app, and to sign in to a verified Dji account.*more patches are being worked on, so this list may be incomplete**Some Info*Although you can patch older versions of Dji GO: 4.1.3, 4.1.8 and 4.1.9, I only recommend patching 4.1.22 NoSecNeo version as of 12/18, or if you need full OTG support, patch 4.1.14. This is what I will focus on here. Why? This is the latest version that the "OG" crew is focusing on, and it works great.You have two choices.The GO app continues to evolve with new features etc, so 4.1.22 NoSecNeo is the latest version that has been worked on and made easily patch-able, and what I fly with on a regular basis. This one is a mayjah, mayjah, MAYJAH GO! (props to Flossy Carter) I have used most of the GO versions, and this one is the one you want if you are going to patch. Don't bother with patching the earlier versions, unless you need full OTG support, then patch 4.1.14. This is what I recommend, until a better one comes out that can still be patched.I only work on Android versions, so these instructions apply only to Android.What you need:info: NFZ database is in two places, one is on the Mavic, updated by module 905 in the firmware. The other is in the GO app. The GO app is used first and if that can't be accessed, defaults back to the Mavic for NFZ info.Did some NFZ testing and trying to get rid of popups as much as possible. This is long, so read on if getting rid of DJI's NFZ is important to your situation.Myself and nocommie in Slack have been doing some work and experimenting on GO, AND rooting the Mavic to delete the 905 NFZ database. He has been getting NFZ popups, even though we removed NFZ from our 4.1.22 and 4.1.14. I went across from the international airport for some testing. Props off, sitting in the car. I used two different devices, both with NFZ removed from the GO app - 4.1.22 and 4.1.14. I used two different Mavics, both on .700. Mavic #1 not rooted so 905 is on there. Mavic #2 rooted, 905 removed. All devices used off-line maps and were in airplane mode at all times. Parameters modded to have NFZ turned OFF.Results:#1 Mavic + 4.1.14 - immediate upon connection with RC, RC shows In NFZ. Connect to 4.1.14 GO, warnings about NFZ, Here Map is red. I was able to arm, but immediately Popup saying reduced performance and must update to latest NFZ data. After arming RC going nuts with beeping. Fail.#1 Mavic + 4.1.22 - same as above, EXCEPT no red on Here map. Fail.#2 Mavic + 4.1.22/4.1.14 RC connected, shows NFZ very briefly, then disappears once GPS is acquired. (I don't think this is related and may be part of the RC boot up process)Connect to GO. No errors, no popups, no red Here maps...RC - Ready to Fly, Go Ready to fly - Mavic armed. No NFZ warnings, nada. PASS!!So bottom line: To really be as free from DJI's NFZ as much as we have found you need:Patched 4.1.22/4.1.14 with NFZ removed, AND rooted Mavic with NFZ files removed. *If you are using NLD, you can do this with the NLD NFZ Removal patch! You need to be on 01.04.0300, or you can stay on 01.03.0700 and TURN OFF NFZ via the checkbox in NLD. If you don't root your drone and remove the nfz.db you will still get warnings(some) but still can fly.* Rooting and removal of the nfz.db only applies to 01.03.0700.Does this mean that if I don't delete the nfz.db, but I make changes in parameters to turn NFZ off, and I still get all kinds of NFZ warnings, OR I choose to use STOCK GO, Android or iOS I wouldn't have been able to take off? I am sure I would have been able to, but warnings and RC beeping means Fail. This happens because, you have turned off enforcement of NFZ via parameters, but you still have the NFZ DBs so you get all the warnings, but you can still take off.I don't condone flying in legitimate NFZ areas, but if you are like my co-worker who lives on the edge of a wrongly drawn DJI NFZ, you may need to do this to enjoy your craft.905. I have been telling people to delete it if you are upgrading past very early firmware 01.03..400 with the thinking that if you downgraded back to 01.03.400, then removed module 905 from any higher firmware, you wouldn't have it on your Mavic. This is right and wrong at the same time. If you have upgraded past 01.03.400, you have 905 on your bird. If you have NEVER upgraded past 01.03.400, or have upgraded but have always removed 905 from the firmware, you DO NOT have 905 on your Mavic. It will only have the stock NFZ version.How do you tell if you have 905? Connect to Mavic with GO...look for the following:Aircraft Database 01.00.01.05 or higher and/or Basic FlySafe 01.00.01.05 or higher.If you see either of these versions, you have the latest NFZ on your Mavic. So far there are 4 different versions: 00.00.01.04, 01.00.01.04, 01.00.01.05 and for the poor souls that are on 1.04.0100 firmware, 01.00.01.07.What does all this mean, if you stay on .700 and turn off NFZ in parameters? Do I have to go through all the above just to turn off NFZ? No, it just means that you will still get warnings and popups, but still can fly. https://nolimitdronez.com/ *no, I do not get any sort of "kick back" from them, just providing the info and link. They are good guys and part of the "OG" group on Slack, doing all this work for us. I highly recommend this app. Super easy to use.*Now that you can get into the full dashboard...what now? Watch these excellent videos from digdat0. digdat0 is adding videos daily. I am linking here just to make it easier for you lazy types. Subscribe to his channel. It's worth it.*thanks to Porto and the gang at Multicopter Pilots*Lets talk about dedicated devices for flying:I have far too many tablets that I have purchased to use for flying. And the Wunderphone. I have:Amazon Fire:HD7HD8 - 2017 *screen is not as good as the HD10, or even the HD7HD10 - 2017Nvidia Shield K-1Wunderphone - Huawei Ascent XT2 (specs here: https://droidchart.com/en/huawei/hua...xt2-h1711-3841 Samsung S8, S9Looking at all of these, which would I use on a regular basis? And why do I have so many?LOL...'cause I can.Best, brightest screen...S8 S9, S9+ they are the most expensive. I got tired of taking it out of the case to put in the RC, and the screen is not as big as a tablet.Shield K-1 - high resolution screen, much better than the Fire HD 8, but I like the Fire HD 10's screen better.. $$ and it's not available anymore. Brighter screen than the Fire HD line 7,8 and 10, but not by much. Sharp, high resolution screen. Has a GPS. But, get this...for the $200 I paid (New) for the K-1, I could have bought both the Fire HD 8 and 10 AND the Wunderphone. Now it's not so much a deal, is it?HD 7+8. Got this because it was cheap, and wanted to test it out to see if it had the power to run GO seamlessly. It does. Not as locked down as previous Amazon tablets. Expandable memory card slot, supports OTG and easily put Google Play Store on it. Screen is not that bright at all, so sunshade is a MUST for use outdoors. No GPS, but off-line maps work perfectly.HD 10. Got this because it was a deal, and again...wanted to test with GO. Slightly higher specs than the HD 8. Screen is higher quality than the HD 8, and it's brighter. Big. Really big. Fantastic to fly with, and it fits in the same holder as the HD 8. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHFS2GD...vert-amazon-20 (shop around, might be better pricing elsewhere) So much you can see on a screen this big. If you have a choice to go for the HD 8, or 10...get the 10. Same as the HD 8 as far as features. Excellent value, and videos look fantastic. It's actually not much heavier than the HD 8. Plastic build quality, which keeps the weight down...so a case is a must.Wunderphone. Easily the cheapest grab and go screen. AND ITS A FULL SMARTPHONE, unlike the tablets. Nothing extra needed to use it. No tablet holder, no extra cables (OTG for spark, but thats it) Its fast and bright. Big battery. 720p screen, but you don't notice it as any different than a 1080p screen because it is a small screen. Plenty bright enough to use WITHOUT a sunshade, like the S8/S9. (the S8/S9 is twice as bright in the sun, according to specs) At $49 its a total steal, probably one of the best bargains I have ever seen for the amount of tech you are getting. Actually, any price under $100 is fantastic, considering the price for smartphones now a days. I held out for the At&t version, only because that is my provider...and if I want or need to use this as a phone, I can. Dedicated screen? I wouldn't hesitate to pick up the Cricket version from Walmart, or Target, or the one from Best Buy. Fantastic value. This is THE screen for the Spark with a controller. If you just need to travel light and don't want to use a tablet, and you don't want to use your everyday phone like me and have to take it out of the case in order to fit it in the RC, grab this and go. If this goes on sale again at Walmart, I am jumping on it, you can bet on that. Same phone here: https://www.bestbuy.com/site/cricket...?skuId=6032705 or here: https://www.target.com/p/cricket-hua...77#lnk=sametab g_config_mode_sport_cfg_tilt_atti_range = 43 (35 stock)g_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_vel_up= 9g_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_vel_down = -10g_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_acc_up = 9g_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_acc_down = -10g_config_fw_cfg_max_speed = 20brake_sensitive_gain = 110g_config_mode_mode_sport_cfg_rc_scale = 1g_config_control_dyn_tilt_min = 28g_config_mode_normal_cfg_tilt_atti_range = 25g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_vel_up = 8g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_vel_down = -6g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_acc_up = 8g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_acc_down = -6*remove height restrictions*g_config_flying_limit_height_limit_enabled = 2g_config_flying_limit_limit_height_abs_without_gps = 3000g_config_flying_limit_limit_height_abs = 3000g_config_flying_limit_limit_height_rel = 3000*700 and below*g_config_airport_limit_cfg_cfg_disable_airport_fly _limit = 1g_config_airport_limit_cfg_cfg_limit_data = 20250910*remove wind warnings*g_config_air_est_big_wind_level1 = 8g_config_air_est_big_wind_level2 = 11g_config_go_home_gohome_idle_vel = 13*you will get warnings, but will not auto land if the -value is 0*g_config_landing_auto_landing_vel_L1 = -1 (-1) *L1 sets descend rate below approx. 20mg_config_landing_auto_landing_vel_L2 = -6 (-3) *L2 sets descend rate above 20m *fast descend rate for 1st stage of Auto landing**Be careful with this setting. If you have the value as 0, the quad will just sit there and you need to manually bring it down.**this will stick on .700, but will revert to GPS mode on newer firmware*g_config_control_mode[1] (fswitch_selection_1) 8 = Sport Mode Defaultg_config_control_mode[2] (fswitch_selection_2) 7 = GPS Mode DefaultChanging either to 6 will add beginner mode on the switchChanging either to 3 is ATTI so you can either change GPS mode or Sport Mode position to ATTIg_config_landing_ctrl_gimbal_pitch_to_horiz_enable 1 (0)g_config_mode_sport_cfg_tilt_atti_range = 45 (35 stock) *no change, so leave at stockg_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_vel_up= 10g_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_vel_down = -6g_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_acc_up =10g_config_mode_sport_cfg_vert_acc_down = -6g_config_fw_cfg_max_speed = 20brake_sensitive_gain = 150g_config_mode_normal_cfg_tilt_atti = 40g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_vel_up = 8g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_vel_down = -6g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_acc_up = 8g_config_mode_normal_cfg_vert_acc_down = -6*remove height restrictions*g_config_flying_limit_height_limit_enabled = 2g_config_flying_limit_limit_height_abs_without_gps = 3000g_config_flying_limit_limit_height_abs = 3000g_config_flying_limit_limit_height_rel = 3000*700 and below*g_config_airport_limit_cfg_cfg_disable_airport_fly _limit = 1g_config_airport_limit_cfg_cfg_limit_data = 20250910*remove wind warnings*g_config_air_est_big_wind_level1 = 8g_config_air_est_big_wind_level2 = 11g_config_go_home_gohome_idle_vel = 13*you will get warnings, but will not auto land if the value is 0*g_config_landing_auto_landing_vel_L1 = -1 (-1) *L1 sets descend rate below approx. 20mg_config_landing_auto_landing_vel_L2 = -6 (-3) *L2 sets descend rate above 20m *fast descend rate for 1st stage of Auto landing**this will stick on .700, but will revert to GPS mode on newer firmware*g_config_control_mode[1] (fswitch_selection_1) 8 = Sport Mode Defaultg_config_control_mode[2] (fswitch_selection_2) 7 = GPS Mode DefaultChanging either to 6 will add beginner mode on the switchChanging either to 3 is ATTI so you can either change GPS mode or Sport Mode position to ATTIg_config_landing_ctrl_gimbal_pitch_to_horiz_enable 1 (1)How about getting around the Critical Return to Home problem in Sport+?IN DJI Dashboard go to Flight Settings, then change Battery Type to Non-DJI Battery and Battery Cells to 3s*caution* This will disable the Mavic from sensing Low battery. Use at your own risk, just like any other change in default settings.*prelator did a test and write up here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=220* normal_cfg_vel_down -3(stock) -6normal_cfg_acc_down -5(stock) -6stockg_config_air_est_big_wind_level1 6g_config_air_est_big_wind_level2 9my adjustmentsg_config_air_est_big_wind_level1 10g_config_air_est_big_wind_level2 13Kilrah recommends:g_config_air_est_big_wind_level1 8g_config_air_est_big_wind_level2 11g_config_misc_cfg_follow_gimbal_yaw_sport = 1 (default 0)Note:Don’t forget to also set Sport Mode Yaw Exp to a more sluggish value such as 0.20 or 0.15 for the Mavic.Ok, heres the scoops. Here is how the Dji firmware works. It is made up of modules, or individual firmware files wrapped up into one. You can open it with 7zip to see all of them.We know that the firmware was changed for the FC to disallow certain parameter changes in firmware above .700, like the ability of turning off NFZ and removing the height restrictions - the two that everyone wants the most. These are located in modules 305 and 306. Those update the firmware for the FC (flight controller). What this means is that you can keep .700s 305 and 306 on the Mavic and update to a higher firmware than .700 and keep all your parameter tweaks, including NFZ and height tweaks. Why does this work? It's because of the way the Dji firmware flashing works. By removing ANY module from the higher, or lower firmware that you are flashing...if the module is not present in the firmware you are flashing, the flashing procedure skips it. Usually only 305,306 and 905 have been removed, keeping the older version, but you can do others as well. Just be careful and ask questions if you aren't sure of what you are doing. It is remotely possible that you could brick the Mavic. Make sense? The parameters stick because you aren't overwriting the 305/306 with new firmware versions of305/306 of the higher version firmware (breaking parameter changing) since they are removed, but you get the benefit of updating other modules to more recent firmware.Will this cause issues? Not sure yet. Reports are positive and I have done this myself without issues with various modules. The only downside of doing this is that you lose any improvements in the recent firmware that 01.03.0700 didn't have AND lose precision landing. If you are going to do this on a new Mavic Pro/Platinum, you will need to install an INTERNAL memory card. Not the slot in the side. See the section above talking about new Mavics not having the internal memory card.Here is what I did last night, just for kicks. I took a look at all the firmware versions prior to .700 and looked specifically for module 905. (NFZ updates) They started in .500 firmware. That means that .400 and below had factory NFZ database which is minimal and people had very little problems with it. Using DUMLdore I downgraded to stock .400 from .700, I Checked with assistant and it was on .400. All good in the hood.Opened .700 with the latest version of 7zip. Went to module 905 and deleted it, then closed 7zip. The other way to do it is to extract the firmware to a folder, delete the module, then using 7zip , create a .tar file with all the files, then rename it with .bin. Both ways work. Here is a 3rd way to do this, If you are on .700 now, just use your backup firmware file you make using DUMLdore, as long as it is a stock full firmware. That works fine to use. Loaded up DUMLdore and upgraded to .700 without the NFZ module 905. Went without any glitches at all, like normal. There are no flight issues or performance issues at all, since this is only the NFZ update. I did a second flash with the same firmware, just as a check of the module versions on the Mavic matched the modules in the firmware flash. The 2nd flash always takes about 3 minutes since it is just checking each module version against the flashing firmware version.If you have no need for newer features from the latest firmware, there really is no need to upgrade your firmware off of .700. There is a camera fix for 1080/60p that has been discovered starting in firmware .800 for recent Mavics. Possibly after June 2017. To take advantage of this, you will need firmware above .700, but you can mix modules, you don't need to use stock firmware.*CAUTION* Just be patient and wait. If the front red lights are not on solid, then it is still upgrading/downgrading...DO NOT JUST DISCONNECT AND TURN OFF POWER. Let it do it's thing. BE PATIENTIf you want to keep all your parameter tweaks on any given firmware above .700, make your changes on the lower firmware and then just delete the 305 and 306 and optional 905 from the newer firmware and flash it. The only issue reported to date is that when flashing to 1.04.0000 or 1.03.1000 and keeping .700s 305, 306 - Precision RTH is affected and is not working, even though you can choose it like normal at take off. The craft behaves just like a regular RTH - off by a couple of feet at most. Precision RTH is off by INCHES. If you are using patched GO version 4.1.14 above, you will now have quickshot modes working. It will not work on earlier versions of patched GO, like 4.1.3, 4.1.8 or 4.1.9.One more thing...If I were to do this again, I would reset all the parameters to default before doing it, just in case the holdup in flashing is caused by non-stock parameters. You are going to have to change them anyway, so it wouldn't hurt to do so. Better safe than have a bricked Mavic because it got stuck.One more, one more thing. I have done the above...(.700 with no 905 module) and upgraded to 1.04.0300 with 305, 306 and 905 removed. This keeps .700 version of 305,306, but firmware shows up as 1.04.0300. Easily upgrade and downgrade doing this AND keeping all parameter changes. I didn't reset parameters before upgrading, and all parameter changes were the same on the 1.04.0300 firmware. No issues in flight so far, upgrade RC to same 1.04.0300. Easily down-gradable back down to .700 if needed, and keeping the same parameters, since you aren't doing an overwrite of the FC firmware. Good stuff!!! A side benefit of this is the possibility that on your Mavic 1080/60p is fixed if you are on a newer Mavic. There was a hardware change, but date of that change is not certain. Mid 2017 so far has been tested and confirmed.As always, you are solely responsible for anything you do to your own Mavic or Spark. NOW GO FLY AND ENJOY!!!You know you want it. Why? Oh...maybe so you can delete that pesky nfz file that seems to muck everything up.jcase is the man here, and has made this really easy to do. digdat0 comes through with yet another cool video, so you can see the whole process. https://github.com/CunningLogic/DUMLRacer Download it. Go to releases and get the lates DUMLRacer.jar and put it in the same folder.It is a commandline program, you run it in java.If on linux or osx, open terminalif on windows open command promptthen java -jar DUMLRacer.jar Modes are AC, RC or GLAC - aircraftRC - remoteGL - GogglesAfter it is done, it enables root and downgrade. Jezzab has implemented the exploit into DUMLdore V3.00 in order to bypass the downgrade lock.Both races need to be won with DUMLracer, you can check with "adb shell".The root is most reliable on the 01.04.0100, less so on others. It may take a few minutes to start as well after reboot.It is "perm", it can be removed if you so wish by doing:adb shellmount -o remount,rw /vendorrm /vendor/bin/*rebootSay THANK YOU to jcase: Any donations in excess of the drone cost, will go to Special Olympics!PayPal Donations - > [email protected] Bitcoin Donations - > 1LrunXwPpknbgVYcBJyDk6eanxTBYnyRKNBitcoin Cash Donations - > 1LrunXwPpknbgVYcBJyDk6eanxTBYnyRKNAmazon giftcards, plain thank yous or anything else -> [email protected] How to fully remove NFZ from 4.1.22 GO and on your stock firmware drone WITHOUT mixing firmware. These are instructions for MAVIC only for now. Spark, P4., I2 coming soon. Stay tuned. Following these steps will allow you almost the full monty. All performance mods will work, but you still can’t bypass GO Altitude limits, but you can use stock firmware and NOT have to bypass NFZ in parameters. Yes, you read that right. You will be rid of ALL NFZ zones on the map, all of the pop-ups and warnings in the app and be able to arm and fly ANYWHERE! You will have all other benefits of the FW such as Quickshots, Precision Landing etc.Just to be clear, this project was undertaken to get around DJIsand Warning zones that they implemented without any legal obligation or requirement.If you do somethinglike flying around airports or other aircraft etc, everyone involved in this project will do whatever we can to identify you and provide your info to the authorities!Tools/software needed:DUMLdore V3.03: https://github.com/jezzab/DUMLdore/releases/tag/v3.03 Latest bin4ry/deejayeye-modder software so you can patch GO and remove the NFZ from the app.DDD – DankDrone Downloader - https://github.com/cs2000/DankDroneD...ive/master.zip Latest GO that is patchable: http://www.openpilotlegacy.org/dji.g...92-noseceo.apk Jezzabs stage2.bin file ​attached here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...6&d=1524734531 Without getting into the details of what jezzab has done for all of us…here is what you do:Use DDD and download 01.04.0100/.0200 and or .0300.Use DUMLdore V3.03 and flash your Mavic to the firmware of your choice in #1. Stock. No mixed firmware, and make sure it is stock, no f’ing around with the files on your bird.Flash it again, just to make sure, to the same version. No really. Just do it. Stop whining.Now, close DUMLdore . In the DUMLdore folder you will see the stage2.bin file. Rename this file so the program doesn’t use it. (Example, rename it to stage2original.bin) Replace that file with stage2.bin attached here.Start up DUMLdore. Hold ALT and click the Load Firmware button and select any firmware file. You will not actually flash the firmware but you must select one to get the process started. Then click on Flash Firmware. You will see stage 1, then stage 2. You will see Completed. Exit DUMLdore and restart device. Then it will change to Flashing complete. Device may be powered off. Exit DUMLdore restart the Mavic and you are DONE. If you flash ANY firmware again, it will put the NFZ back on the Mavic. Then you will need to do steps 4 and 5 again.Don’t forget to rename the stage2.bin file back, or swap it out again.Man up and send jezzab some LOVE via PayPal. This means you. All the OG’s work hard. Time to pay back and make someone happy. https://www.paypal.me/DUMLdore Test in an area where you had NFZ warnings before, WITH PROPS OFF. I am NOT telling you to fly in a NFZ. Use your smarts.I'll repost this here , as referenced in the dji_system.bin repo, this is a good place to start: http://dji.retroroms.info For those of you not in the loop, that want to help with the "retention" process regarding control of your DJI aircraft, please familiarize yourself with the following repos:This represents the front lines of the resistance as it were... "the movement" pretty well begins in all of these individual battle grounds. https://github.com/Bin4ry/deejayeye-modder - APK "tweaks" for settings & "mods" for additional / altered functionality https://github.com/hdnes/pyduml - Assistant-less firmware pushes and DUMLHacks referred to as DUMBHerring when used with "fireworks.tar" from RedHerring. DJI silently changes Assistant? great... we will just stop using it. https://github.com/MAVProxyUser/P0VsRedHerring - RedHerring, aka "July 4th Independence Day exploit", "FTPD directory transversal 0day", etc. (Requires Assistant). We all needed a *public* root exploit... why not burn some 0day? https://github.com/MAVProxyUser/dji_system.bin - Current Archive of dji_system.bin files that compose firmware updates referenced by MD5 sum. These can be used to upgrade and downgrade, and root your I2, P4, Mavic, Spark, Goggles, and Mavic RC to your hearts content. (Use with pyduml or DUMLDore) https://github.com/MAVProxyUser/firm_cache - Extracted contents of dji_system.bin, in the future will be used to mix and match pieces of firmware for custom upgrade files. This repo was previously private... it is now open. https://github.com/jezzab/DUMLdore/r...DUMLdoreV3.zip - Even windows users need some love, so DUMLDore was created to help flash dji_system.bin files on windows platforms. jezzab deserves LOVE too, so click on the About and share!So... that is all! Have fun folks, stop by Slack and see us if you get bored. #android_apk_patching, #archived_fw_flashing, #factory_mode_access, #firm_cache, #hardware, #mavic_rooting, #safety_shaming channels all have something for everyone. If not.. feel free to lurk in #general.Hope you found this useful!!