TORONTO — With the possible exception of his mother, nobody would argue that people don’t talk enough about David Chang. More often than not, though, he is talked about for the wrong things .

Diners and restaurant writers insist on seeing him as the inventor of every scrap of food sold under the Momofuku name, rather than as a restaurant operator who is very skilled — maybe singularly skilled — at creating the conditions other chefs need to come up with food that’s not just novel but relevant to our world.

Kojin, which he opened here in June, would be completely baffling if you believed that Mr. Chang was behind every dish. Once you’d made your way to the third floor of the askew glass cube that juts out of the Shangri-La Hotel, you’d search for his fingerprints on the menu, almost as big as a newspaper page and decorated with antique-looking illustrations of crab claws and sausages emanating from a hand-cranked meat grinder.