Pre-Code Hollywood is seen by many critics as one of the greatest eras in American cinema, and while I'm certainly no movie buff, when it comes to fashion and costume design, I'm inclined to agree.







In case you're unfamiliar with the term, "Pre-Code" refers to films made between the introduction of sound and the mandatory enforcement of Motion Picture Production Code censorship guidelines (known colloquially as the "Hays Code"). Pre-Code films were bawdy, risque and irreverent, exploring everything lesbian relationships to drug use, sex work and extramarital affairs.

While that may seem a bit anachronistic at first, the era of Pre-Code cinema also overlaps with the Jazz Age, the rise of Flappers, increased availability of birth control, and the transition of some women into white collar jobs, which were often located in cities.

Now that the trailing skirts and cinched corsets of the Edwardian Era were no longer in fashion (and never would be again), a new kind of lingerie came into a focus. Looser and more provocative with higher hems and fewer layers, this style of lingerie was scandalously close to naked, replacing the layers of chemises, knickers, corsets, corset covers and petticoats that encompassed lingerie for previous generations.

It's hard to convey just how much of a complete reversal the underfashion aesthetics of the 1920s were to the Edwardian Era. From heavy corsetry that had to be professionally made to simple patterns that were mostly unlined rectangles, these new intimates were a radical departure from established lingerie traditions.

Widespread use of machine-made lace and the development of synthetic fabrics (such as rayon, then known as "artificial silk") also meant the concept of mass-produced luxury was beginning to take off. Beautiful, comfortable lingerie was no longer the sole domain of the very wealthy, and an increase in the number of lingerie colors available - not just black and white, but also peach, mint, and eau de nil - also increased their fashion appeal.

Rompers, chemises, bralettes, and tap pants - all items in the new lingerie wardrobe - did not require a lady's maid to get into or out of, and could be washed, repaired, or even completely made at home. The changing role of women in society is reflected in the underfashion. It's a brilliant example of sartorial trends mirroring cultural shifts.

Of course, we all know the Roaring Twenties led to the Great Depression, but instead of being diminished, the escapist, fanciful nature of cinema was amplified, especially in costume. There's an element of over-the-top opulence to many movie costumes from this era, perhaps meant to be a distraction from everyday life.

While many of these pieces would be irreproducible today due to the expense involved, even in their era, they would not have been cheap. Costume design at this time was unfathomably lavish, with many studios having their own in-house costume departments to make everything custom for each individual actor.

Full sleeves, lace applique, fur trim, crystal pleating...these details were incredibly labor and time intensive, requiring dozens of hours per garment. Yet Pre-Code Cinema has some of the most fantastic examples of lingerie artisanship I've ever seen.

As a woman living in the 21st century, it's startling how many pieces from this era would be right at home on the runways and in the lingerie drawers of today. The emphasis on drape, comfort, and a natural silhouette is quite similar to this era's athleisure, bralette and romper trends. In addition, loungewear, especially robes and pajamas, is coming back in a big way. I can't help but wonder if there are similar changes in today's social climate sparking that return to historical forms.

Of course, I don't want to portray the 1920s and 1930s, as either a cinematic or a historical era, as an ideal. I'm in love with the clothes, and that is where my romance begins and ends. The 1920s and 30s were a regularly horrible, traumatic, and even gruesome era for millions of people. No amount of hand-finished stitching or antique lace can change that, and my nostalgia isn't at all for this period in history, but rather for the intricacy in lingerie construction and detailing that's been lost to memory.

I would be wrong to finish this article without mentioning where you can find pieces with a similar spirit today. Betty Blue's, Karolina Laskowska, Shell Belle Couture, Carine Gilson, Dottie's Delights, Evgenia Lingerie, Kiss Me Deadly, Rosamosario, I.D. Sarrieri, Harlow & Fox, and La Perla are all excellent places to start your search. Most of these names are luxury brands, and that's because the techniques and materials they're using (intricate lace appliques, volumes of silk, etc.) are only possible for garments in the 3 and 4 figures. However, ebay and Etsy are always worth a look, especially if you're okay with previously owned items.

I hope you enjoy this trip to the lingerie past as much as I enjoyed compiling it. What's your favorite look from the scenes below?

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