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(MkIII) Homemade Headset Tools... Results 1 to 59 of 59 Thread: (MkIII) Homemade Headset Tools... #1 Derailleurless

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 9,122 Reputation: (MkIII) Homemade Headset Tools... <P><table border=1 bgcolor=DAFFC4 width=500><tr>

<td align=left><font size=3 face=arial><center>This post is one in a series of twelve posts depcting the build of my Hollowpoint MkIII.

<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=130055"><b>Link to <font color="blue">MkIII / Speedhub bike build post.</b></font></a></center></td></tr>

</table></P>

<table width=500><tr><td align=left><font size=3>Oh goody, more homemade tool solutions.



About four years ago, I put together a post titled "Thanks Gearjunky - 99¢ headset cup remover". It was a length of PVC tubing sliced open at the ends to impersonate a headset cup remover. Only problem was that every few uses, the PVC would become chipped along the edges and eventually shatter. Someone much smarter than I ran with Gearjunky's idea, but made their tool out of copper pipe. Not too long ago, I copied, and have been using this for maybe a year already. I must say, it's much improved over the old PVC design.



This is a simple piece of 1" copper, capped on one end, and flared open on the other with four 4" cuts. Combined with a rubber stopper to hold the flares open during the removal process, it's worked like a champ each and every time. And, since I'm banging on metal and not plastic, I retired the rubber mallet for a real hammer. Bangs out headset cups in a snap.



The second tool is a low-tech headset press. God bless Mike T., but I simply can't bring myself to whack a headset cup into the frame using a 2x4 and a hammer.



For me, the answer is a simple 3/4" x 8" UNF (fine-threaded) bolt with a stack of fender washers. A 1/2" bolt would be ever better for this application. The UNF threading requires 16 turns per inch of movement for a 3/4" bolt, or 20 turns per inch for a 1/2" bolt.



Avoid coarse threaded UNC bolts of similar diameters -- they would require 10 and 13 turns per inch, respectively, resulting in a less even press and a greater chance for the cut to get crooked while going in.



Here's a bunch of pictures.</td></tr>

</table></P>



<img src="https://www.booboodog.net/images/headset-tools.jpg">



<img src="https://www.booboodog.net/images/headset-removal1.jpg">



<img src="https://www.booboodog.net/images/headset-removal2.jpg">



<img src="https://www.booboodog.net/images/headset-press1.jpg">



<img src="https://www.booboodog.net/images/headset-press.gif">

<table border="1" bgcolor=DAFFC4>

<tr><th></th>

<th>Index of MkIII Build Posts</th>

<th></th></tr>

<td><font size=1><b>

<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=130055">MAIN: MkIII / Speedhub Build Pics</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=84431">Iron Horse MkIII Naked Frame (March 2005)</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=1151&postcount=4">Hollowpoint Speedhub Build Pictures (April 2003)</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189936">Cane Creek AD-12 Air Chamber Volume Adjustment</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=126928">White Brothers 2006 Technology</a></b></font></td>



<td><font size=1><b><a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=110833">White Brothers DT 1.2 Fork Porn</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189946">Stripping Anodization</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189954">Bottom Bracket Drain Hole Drilling & Installation</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189971">Drilling Out Cable Stops (Full Length Cable Run)</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189977">Dremel Cut & Prep of Cable & Housing</a></b></font></td><td><font size=1><b><a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189926">Hopey Steering Damper Installation</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189989">Stripping & Polishing an Aluminum Frame</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1190007">Homemade Headset Removal & Installation Tools</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189999">Star Fangled Nut Removal (Drilling out the Star Nut)</a></b></td></td>

</tr></table> Last edited by Speedub.Nate; 09-15-2005 at 07:56 PM . speedub.nate

· MTBR Hiatus UFN · #2 A wheelist

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 5,991 Reputation: Originally Posted by Speedub.Nate Originally Posted by .......bless Mike T., but I simply can't bring myself to whack a headset cup into the frame using a 2x4 and a hammer.



"Wow I didn't know it was that easy" was his comment. #3 Derailleurless

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 9,122 Reputation: I have complete faith in your method, as long as you're the one doing it. I'm sure once I see you do it, I'll change my opinion. speedub.nate

· MTBR Hiatus UFN · #4 Squalor

Reputation: Join Date Jan 2004 Posts 1,573 Reputation: Nate -



I use the exact same method for a headset press except I use a long eye-bolt instead of a regular bolt.



I then inset a long lever (I use an old handle from a floor jack - but whatever will work) and hold the nut on the bottom with the adjustable wrench.



I can just rotate the lever while holding the bolt and eveything tightens up without having to remove the wrench...



Same idea, just a little different implementation.



LP #5 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Jan 2004 Posts 1,230 Reputation: Nate, where did you source the parts for the press? I was thinking either hardware store or autoparts store, but I was wondering if a "UNF" bolt or "fender washers" were going to be hard to find. Thanks. #6 Derailleurless

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 9,122 Reputation: Originally Posted by bikerboy Originally Posted by Nate, where did you source the parts for the press? I was thinking either hardware store or autoparts store, but I was wondering if a "UNF" bolt or "fender washers" were going to be hard to find. Thanks.



The fender washers are pretty common. Bring along a headset cup just to make sure the diameter of the fender washer is large enough to cover the edges of the cup. speedub.nate

· MTBR Hiatus UFN · #7

Reputation: Join Date Jul 2005 Posts 78 Reputation: Originally Posted by lanpope Originally Posted by Nate -



I use the exact same method for a headset press except I use a long eye-bolt instead of a regular bolt.



I then inset a long lever (I use an old handle from a floor jack - but whatever will work) and hold the nut on the bottom with the adjustable wrench.



I can just rotate the lever while holding the bolt and eveything tightens up without having to remove the wrench...



Same idea, just a little different implementation.



LP #8

Reputation: Join Date Apr 2004 Posts 92 Reputation: Originally Posted by Speedub.Nate Originally Posted by In fact, they weren't as easy to find as I expected. At the time, Home Depot nor my local True Value didn't stock any UNF bolts. I tracked some down at an Orchard Supply Hardware store.



The fender washers are pretty common. Bring along a headset cup just to make sure the diameter of the fender washer is large enough to cover the edges of the cup.



I use that method on pressing everything in, bearings, headsets, it always works like a champ and costs next to nothing. If I had money to throw away I'd get the headset press from Park tools but this works fine for me. #9 EDR

Reputation: Join Date Jun 2005 Posts 9,928 Reputation: cool ideas. d #10 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Jan 2005 Posts 1,622 Reputation: nate the bicycle tool guru...keep tinkering for us poor folx who really ride and work on our bikes "He can make even a global summit meeting seem like a kegger." M. Dowd, NY Times, 19 July 2006 #11 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Jan 2005 Posts 105 Reputation: So, how do you set the crown race? #12 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 3,042 Reputation: Originally Posted by TeamRoundBoys Originally Posted by So, how do you set the crown race? #13 Derailleurless

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 9,122 Reputation: Originally Posted by Ratt Originally Posted by tap on with a pipe, keep the pipe on the floor and move the fork up and down to avoid damaging dropouts and rebound knobs.



Of course, if you use FSA headsets, most have that nifty split ring crown race, which snaps into place with light finger pressure. speedub.nate

· MTBR Hiatus UFN · #14 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 3,408 Reputation: Originally Posted by Speedub.Nate Originally Posted by Same here. I have a length of ABS pipe (PVC will do) with an interior diameter just larger than a 1-1/8" steerer tube. I simply stand the fork upside down on the pipe (which itself is standing on the floor) and bang on the underside of the crown with a rubber mallet.



Of course, if you use FSA headsets, most have that nifty split ring crown race, which snaps into place with light finger pressure.

now what do you use to get the crown race off?? #15 Derailleurless

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 9,122 Reputation: Originally Posted by wickerman1 Originally Posted by now what do you use to get the crown race off??



I wish everyone would adopt the split crown that FSA uses -- it snaps on with light finger pressure and pops off with the gentle twist of a screwdriver blade. speedub.nate

· MTBR Hiatus UFN · #16 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2005 Posts 7 Reputation: That is exactly how we pressed in the headset on my Distance...just a peice of allthread and some washers. #17 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Sep 2005 Posts 181 Reputation: For the press i use the same washer screw method but i also use some pieces of wood (soft pine) so I don't scratch that nice Chris King finish. #18 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Sep 2004 Posts 80 Reputation: thanks for the inspiring video!!!!!!! saw the video and ran to home depot for my setup, home depot even has fender washer rubber spacers if your worried about any scratching issues.

My "friend" would charge me 10 bucks a smash for this.

thanks for the info, and keep on keepin it real. RETROROCKS





<img src="https://www.booboodog.net/images/headset-press1.jpg">



<img src="https://www.booboodog.net/images/headset-press.gif">

<table border="1" bgcolor=DAFFC4>

<tr><th></th>

<th>Index of MkIII Build Posts</th>

<th></th></tr>

<td><font size=1><b>

<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=130055">MAIN: MkIII / Speedhub Build Pics</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=84431">Iron Horse MkIII Naked Frame (March 2005)</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=1151&postcount=4">Hollowpoint Speedhub Build Pictures (April 2003)</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189936">Cane Creek AD-12 Air Chamber Volume Adjustment</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=126928">White Brothers 2006 Technology</a></b></font></td>



<td><font size=1><b><a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=110833">White Brothers DT 1.2 Fork Porn</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189946">Stripping Anodization</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189954">Bottom Bracket Drain Hole Drilling & Installation</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189971">Drilling Out Cable Stops (Full Length Cable Run)</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189977">Dremel Cut & Prep of Cable & Housing</a></b></font></td><td><font size=1><b><a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189926">Hopey Steering Damper Installation</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189989">Stripping & Polishing an Aluminum Frame</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1190007">Homemade Headset Removal & Installation Tools</a>



<a href="https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=1189999">Star Fangled Nut Removal (Drilling out the Star Nut)</a></b></td></td>

</tr></table>[/QUOTE] #19 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Jun 2005 Posts 165 Reputation: Another option for setting the crown race is to use a cut down peice of 1 1/8 Copper Pipe (about 12~18 inches long). Copper is a really soft metal and will deform to the crown race shape. It also will not shatter like PVC will when hit too hard. (PVC is sharp when is shatters)



If you have some time, you can hold the fork in one hand with the crown race and pipe in place and tap the crown race down (slow and boring). If you have less time a 2X4 between two sawhorses gives you a really good place to place the top of the rigid crown (not the suspension crown) of the fork and tap harder. In both cases watch the race seat and try to keep the race flat while is being tapped on the the fork.



Also, you can order just the headset press step washers to fit inside the headset from mail-order / web based part houses. Then you only need a single fender washer in the press.



Originally Posted by Speedub.Nate Originally Posted by Same here. I have a length of ABS pipe (PVC will do) with an interior diameter just larger than a 1-1/8" steerer tube. I simply stand the fork upside down on the pipe (which itself is standing on the floor) and bang on the underside of the crown with a rubber mallet.



Of course, if you use FSA headsets, most have that nifty split ring crown race, which snaps into place with light finger pressure. #20 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 3,042 Reputation: Patent infringement? <img src="https://www.parktool.com/images/products/productimages/spr_HHP-3_2005922_35260.jpg">

A slight variation on your design #21 Trail rider and racer

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 4,691 Reputation: Very nicely presented Nat. I'll have to make my own. T r e v! #22 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2007 Posts 348 Reputation: So, would this work for 1.5" headset as well? I'd like to make one of those tools, I'll be installing a Cane Creek Double XC into a blindside, anything I need to know about it being a low stack and 1.5"? #23 Derailleurless

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 9,122 Reputation: Originally Posted by yomattyo Originally Posted by So, would this work for 1.5" headset as well? I'd like to make one of those tools, I'll be installing a Cane Creek Double XC into a blindside, anything I need to know about it being a low stack and 1.5"? speedub.nate

· MTBR Hiatus UFN · #24 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Aug 2005 Posts 1,689 Reputation: If I remember correctly you will need a washer the size of the inside lip that the bearing sits on as the cane creek recommended not pressing using the outside of the cup. You should check their website to make sure. #25 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Sep 2006 Posts 177 Reputation: Here is a picture of my headset remover I went to the hardware store looking for a 1" copper pipe and the cheapest one they had was 2 feet long and 20 dollars.



I already had a breaker bar that I had used in the past to knock around each "corner" of the cup successively. The problem with this is obvious. Not only does it damage the cup to hit only one side of the lip but you could easily hit your hand as you're holding it so carefully.



So I took a washer that was the right diameter to just fit inside the headtube (happens to be 33 mm for a 1.125" headtube). I held it with vice grips and filed down two sides of it so that I could slip it through the inside of a cup and get it into the headtube. It turned out that it needed to be filed down to 29 mm to do this.



Then I simply drop the washer into the headtube. It sits cleanly against the inside of one cup. I pound the washer using my breaker bar and the cup is out in seconds with no damage.



The washer cost about 50 cents.



#26 A wheelist

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 5,991 Reputation: That's an excellent idea 'clover. Thanks for that. I've knocked them out for decades with a large screwdriver but your gizzmo makes the removal so much better. #27 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Aug 2007 Posts 1,307 Reputation: Originally Posted by Mutantclover Originally Posted by



I already had a breaker bar that I had used in the past to knock around each "corner" of the cup successively. The problem with this is obvious. Not only does it damage the cup to hit only one side of the lip but you could easily hit your hand as you're holding it so carefully.



So I took a washer that was the right diameter to just fit inside the headtube (happens to be 33 mm for a 1.125" headtube). I held it with vice grips and filed down two sides of it so that I could slip it through the inside of a cup and get it into the headtube. It turned out that it needed to be filed down to 29 mm to do this.



Then I simply drop the washer into the headtube. It sits cleanly against the inside of one cup. I pound the washer using my breaker bar and the cup is out in seconds with no damage.



The washer cost about 50 cents.



I went to the hardware store looking for a 1" copper pipe and the cheapest one they had was 2 feet long and 20 dollars.I already had a breaker bar that I had used in the past to knock around each "corner" of the cup successively. The problem with this is obvious. Not only does it damage the cup to hit only one side of the lip but you could easily hit your hand as you're holding it so carefully.So I took a washer that was the right diameter to just fit inside the headtube (happens to be 33 mm for a 1.125" headtube). I held it with vice grips and filed down two sides of it so that I could slip it through the inside of a cup and get it into the headtube. It turned out that it needed to be filed down to 29 mm to do this.Then I simply drop the washer into the headtube. It sits cleanly against the inside of one cup. I pound the washer using my breaker bar and the cup is out in seconds with no damage.The washer cost about 50 cents. http://bostonbicyclemechanic.blogspot.com/ #28 Derailleurless

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 9,122 Reputation: Very nice. The improvement I'd like to see is an easy homebuilt way to press the cups out, instead of banging them. This is a step in that direction. speedub.nate

· MTBR Hiatus UFN · #29 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Jul 2008 Posts 736 Reputation: Nice way to show the tools Nate, THANKS!! I've used similar.I have used a similar device to hold the external BB tool onto the external BB cups straight so not to run the chance of stripping the "dents' in the cup, I posted it here.



.http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=658693 Training on Hills Builds Character, That's How I Got To Be One! #30 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date May 2006 Posts 696 Reputation: Originally Posted by TeamRoundBoys Originally Posted by So, how do you set the crown race? http://facebook.com/CharlemontTrails

NEMBA Past President... NEMBA Past President... #31 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Jan 2004 Posts 2,200 Reputation: Originally Posted by hado_pv Originally Posted by 1 1/8 hole in my solid oak work bench. invert the fork and drop it until the race is set.



Tim #32 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Mar 2009 Posts 136 Reputation: Does the rubber stopper in the bottom of the removal tool help stop damage to the cups?

I'm just trying to picture this working(and fitting) inside the headset. #33 VENI VEDI BIKI

Reputation: Join Date Jan 2010 Posts 838 Reputation: I do the same thing but use brass bushings between the cups and washers #34 Derailleurless

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 9,122 Reputation: Originally Posted by thechez Originally Posted by Does the rubber stopper in the bottom of the removal tool help stop damage to the cups?

I'm just trying to picture this working(and fitting) inside the headset. speedub.nate

· MTBR Hiatus UFN · #35 El Pollo Diablo

Reputation: Join Date Feb 2007 Posts 1,473 Reputation: FWIW, I've had varied luck with this type of homemade headset tool...

done a bunch of FSA HSes and one C'dale HS, no problem, but cracked the hell out of a Crank Bros headset doing the exact same thing. #36 Derailleurless

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 9,122 Reputation: Originally Posted by SnowMongoose Originally Posted by FWIW, I've had varied luck with this type of homemade headset tool...

done a bunch of FSA HSes and one C'dale HS, no problem, but cracked the hell out of a Crank Bros headset doing the exact same thing. speedub.nate

· MTBR Hiatus UFN · #37 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Apr 2006 Posts 44 Reputation: I am a machinist currently and I was born and raised in a bike shop. So getting back into biking, I should make myself some tools.

Here is my headset press with spacers and Chris King spacers.













If anybody want the dimensions, just let me know,

Scott. #38 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Oct 2005 Posts 660 Reputation: For headset removal I have used PVC, but it doesn't last. Now I use an old aluminum handlebar with a grip on one end to remove headsets. Works well and it is kind to the headsets.



urmb How inappropriate to call this planet "Earth," when it is clearly "Ocean.

― Arthur C. Clarke #39 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Jun 2008 Posts 85 Reputation: Originally Posted by dorkboy Originally Posted by

Here is my headset press with spacers and Chris King spacers.













If anybody want the dimensions, just let me know,

Scott. I am a machinist currently and I was born and raised in a bike shop. So getting back into biking, I should make myself some tools.Here is my headset press with spacers and Chris King spacers.If anybody want the dimensions, just let me know,Scott.

wow! I myself have made tools like the OP, but that is a some serious hardware. You could/should sell that thing. I'm sure it's pretty time consuming to build a single unit one off like that but if you did small runs at a time you could probably make a nice little side business out it. Boutique brands seem to gain cult like followings in the MTB community. #40 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Mar 2008 Posts 217 Reputation: Originally Posted by yomattyo Originally Posted by So, would this work for 1.5" headset as well? I'd like to make one of those tools, I'll be installing a Cane Creek Double XC into a blindside, anything I need to know about it being a low stack and 1.5"?



Thanks! MTB Art, Illustration, Design #41 nocturnal oblivion

Reputation: Join Date Mar 2006 Posts 2,329 Reputation: Originally Posted by reptilezs Originally Posted by nice. very similar to fork bushing removal tools. the headtube ID for std 1 1/8 is 33.8mm Talk about a simple tool, I love it. "...like sex with the trail." - Boe #42 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Feb 2012 Posts 1 Reputation: Headset press I have just come in from the garage having seen and acted upon the flared tube idea for removing my headset, very effective, but met with the challenge of re seating the replacement. I then remembered a post about using threaded bar, washers, bolts and so on. I found some washers that were the right size but no bolt. Luckily, having never thrown anything out, I struck upon the idea of using an old rear hub QR skewer. This gives you the flexibility of gently turning, levering the headset in, the former worked better.



If I hadn't had large enough washers, a couple of wood cores were going to be my next option.



One headset successfully seated with out buying any fancy tools and without even having to leave the garage. #43 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Sep 2006 Posts 177 Reputation: Sounds like a convenient solution Fjord. But I feel the need to bring up something that happened to me when using a small allthread to install a headset. Basically when I was halfway through pressing, the allthread snapped and one half went rocketing across the room like it was shot out of a gun. Granted the skewer is probably treated steel and my allthread was probably low strength steel. I guess what I'm trying to say is if you find yourself using a fairly small diameter rod with high tension, stand clear of the two ends. The one I use now is massive in comparison to that one that snapped. #44 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Jul 2007 Posts 907 Reputation: I just use a woodworking clamp and a couple rags to protect the headset.......rotate the clamp around to apply even pressure......



We're not launching the space shuttle here, just installing a headset right?



I like some of these solutions though.....beats the heck out of the spendy purpose made tools... #45 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Jul 2006 Posts 473 Reputation: Has anyone made one for a tapered head tube? #46 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Mar 2012 Posts 195 Reputation: impressive tools. good work guys #47 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Jun 2012 Posts 896 Reputation: Originally Posted by MaddSquirrel Originally Posted by If I remember correctly you will need a washer the size of the inside lip that the bearing sits on as the cane creek recommended not pressing using the outside of the cup. You should check their website to make sure. #48 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Sep 2006 Posts 177 Reputation: Originally Posted by aBicycle Originally Posted by Is this really an issue?



So the 40 is pretty ghetto install friendly, but not 100%. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again the way I did in a pinch, although I agree with Cane Creek in that it isn't the best way.



Hope that makes some sense. #49 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 3,042 Reputation: Originally Posted by aBicycle Originally Posted by Is this really an issue? #50 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Jun 2006 Posts 7,815 Reputation: Originally Posted by aBicycle Originally Posted by Is this really an issue? #51 The Wiking

Reputation: Join Date Aug 2011 Posts 69 Reputation: Originally Posted by Mutantclover Originally Posted by



I already had a breaker bar that I had used in the past to knock around each "corner" of the cup successively. The problem with this is obvious. Not only does it damage the cup to hit only one side of the lip but you could easily hit your hand as you're holding it so carefully.



So I took a washer that was the right diameter to just fit inside the headtube (happens to be 33 mm for a 1.125" headtube). I held it with vice grips and filed down two sides of it so that I could slip it through the inside of a cup and get it into the headtube. It turned out that it needed to be filed down to 29 mm to do this.



Then I simply drop the washer into the headtube. It sits cleanly against the inside of one cup. I pound the washer using my breaker bar and the cup is out in seconds with no damage.



The washer cost about 50 cents.



I went to the hardware store looking for a 1" copper pipe and the cheapest one they had was 2 feet long and 20 dollars.I already had a breaker bar that I had used in the past to knock around each "corner" of the cup successively. The problem with this is obvious. Not only does it damage the cup to hit only one side of the lip but you could easily hit your hand as you're holding it so carefully.So I took a washer that was the right diameter to just fit inside the headtube (happens to be 33 mm for a 1.125" headtube). I held it with vice grips and filed down two sides of it so that I could slip it through the inside of a cup and get it into the headtube. It turned out that it needed to be filed down to 29 mm to do this.Then I simply drop the washer into the headtube. It sits cleanly against the inside of one cup. I pound the washer using my breaker bar and the cup is out in seconds with no damage.The washer cost about 50 cents. with speed, shall technique be conquered



The streets are the sketchiest of trails. #52 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Jul 2013 Posts 21 Reputation: I paid $15 to a LBS to get my headset installed. It was efficient. #53 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Jun 2006 Posts 7,815 Reputation: Originally Posted by taptee Originally Posted by I paid $15 to a LBS to get my headset installed. It was efficient. that? #54 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Jul 2013 Posts 21 Reputation: Originally Posted by bad mechanic Originally Posted by that? What was the point in resurrecting a year old thread just to post

I just wanted to share this with other enthusiasts so headset installation doesn't sound too intimidating.

Oh, and I am a huge fan of the story of Lazarus. That too. #55 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Oct 2014 Posts 1 Reputation: What can I do if the headset went in at a slight angle using this method? If I keep turning, will it even out eventually? #56 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Dec 2003 Posts 3,042 Reputation: Originally Posted by youhjjhhhjj Originally Posted by What can I do if the headset went in at a slight angle using this method? If I keep turning, will it even out eventually? #57 Trail Tire TV on blogger

Reputation: Join Date Oct 2007 Posts 4,237 Reputation: Originally Posted by youhjjhhhjj Originally Posted by What can I do if the headset went in at a slight angle using this method? If I keep turning, will it even out eventually? Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... Going to try and bringback. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/ #58 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date Aug 2013 Posts 85 Reputation: Hey, I thought I'd share a lucky find I had a few weeks ago.



However, I'll add that I've had pretty good success using allthread, nuts & washers as a bearing press. Although It lacks centering and alignment advantages of a high-quality bearing press, it still functions pretty well.



Well, one day I happened to be crossing the street and noticed an old, greasy metal object on the ground. I picked it up and realized it was some sort of bushing or spacer, I assume from a car's suspension. I took it home, cleaned it up and realized it looked like it might fit my allthread press. Sure enough, the ID is almost an EXACT fit on the allthread I happen to be using. And the OD is perfect for some headset and hub bearing applications. It's approximately 1" in length, so it resists sideways torquing when applying load to press bearings.



I have been meaning to take it to an auto parts store to see if it is just one of many different bushing sizes available, but haven't done so yet. If so, this would probably be a really inexpensive way to get centering and aligning guides for the home made presses I see people using here. If I ever visit the auto parts store, I'll share what I find here.



If anyone else happens to do same, please let folks know. #59 mtbr member

Reputation: Join Date May 2014 Posts 1,503 Reputation: I tried this method for my Cane Creek headset in my new frame and couldn't keep it from going in crooked. So I read instructions (I am man I don't stop and ask directions lol) and lo and behold they show driving cups in with a bearing race driver and hammer. So I went to my toolbox and got my aluminum race driver set and headset installed rather simple. That's how I did it. Used a dead blow hammer too. Members who have read this thread: 15 arca_tern,

stlburner,

bustour,

offrhodes42,

jenren81,

Superblah,

mccrarystv,

soulshaker,

gr8fasushi,

DowneyDude,

NateMob,

stm32disco,

Bolo240,

frank33v,

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