Those unfamiliar with Texas history and culture might be surprised at our love affair with kolaches, semisweet yeast rolls of Czech origin that come with fillings ranging from plum preserves to sausage and jalapeño cheese.

But since Texas cuisine encompasses everything from buñ uelos to barbecue and salsa to sauerbraten, it's only natural we would make such a delectable Czechoslovakian pastry our own.

Kolaches, which take their name from kolae, Czech for cake, were introduced to Texas by immigrants from the Czech lands of Bohemia, Moravia and Silesia, who migrated to east Texas beginning in the early 1850s. They came here partly because of religious and political persecution at home, and partly because of our abundance of inexpensive farmland.

In their new home, the Czech people were free to openly celebrate their culture, and they took full advantage of it through their language, music, dances and food — which included kolaches.

Various cities in Texas claim to make the best. The city of Caldwell has declared itself the Kolache Capital of Texas and holds an annual Kolache Festival every September. Not to be outdone, the city of West has declared itself Home of the Official Kolache of the Texas Legislature.

Denise Mazal, native Czechoslovakian and chef/owner of Little Gretel Restaurant in Boerne, was taught how to make kolaches by her mother, who was also a chef. Mazal, who estimates she has made more than a half-million kolaches in her career, says kolaches were historically served at weddings; families would often start a week before the event, turning out 1,000 or more for their guests.

"There are so many little things about making them," she says, pointing out that the right humidity and temperature in the kitchen are critical for good results. There is an old saying, she says: "When the baker breaks a sweat, the temperature of the room is perfect."

As for the types of kolaches she makes, Mazal tries "to go back in time, to the original roots." She prefers the Old World versions that feature fruit, such as plum jam, farmer's cheese with fresh peaches and poppy seed. She doesn't think "a sausage in a bun," as she puts it, should be called a kolache.

It appears that both sweet and savory kolaches have their devotees. But when it comes to these tender, doughy, pastries, what's not to love?

CZECH TRADITIONAL FARMER'S CHEESE AND PEACH KOLACHES

From Denise Mazal

DOUGH

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons warm milk

2 packages dry yeast

1 teaspoon sugar for proofing the yeast

3 ¾ cups sifted flour, plus additional as needed for sprinkling

6 tablespoons sifted sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

3 egg yolks

7 tablespoons melted unsalted butter, cooled to lukewarm

TO FINISH:

Zest of ½ lemon

Egg Wash (recipe follows)

Cheese Filling (recipe follows)

7 peaches, each cut into 8 small wedges

Struesel (recipe follows)

Melted butter, for brushing finished kolaches

EGG WASH

2 egg yolks

1 tablespoon milk

CHEESE FILLING

16 ounces farmer's or ricotta cheese

6 tablespoons sugar

1 egg yolk

Zest of ½ lemon

STREUSEL

1 cup plus 1 tablespoon flour

¾ cup sugar

7 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

FOR DOUGH

Warm the milk in a measuring cup to about 110 degrees. Add yeast and 1 teaspoon sugar. Stir until completely dissolved.

Let the yeast proof until foamy, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, sift the 3¾ cups flour, 6 tablespoons sugar and salt into the bowl of a stand mixer.

Add the egg yolks, melted butter, lemon zest and proofed yeast mixture and mix on lowest speed to incorporate all the ingredients, about 1 minute.

Increase the speed slightly and knead until very smooth, about 5 more minutes. (A blister on the surface of the dough is a good sign.)

Remove the dough hook and scrape the dough off the walls of the bowl. The dough should not stick to the spatula.

Leave dough in the bowl and sprinkle it with flour. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it rise in a warm place until it doubles in size.

Once doubled, transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface, divide in half, and roll out into two long cylinders.

Divide each cylinder into eight equal pieces (2 ounces each) and form small balls.

Before placing them on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or a greased baking sheet sprinkled with flour, roll them in the excess flour on the table.

Do not crowd the kolaches; it will take two baking sheets to accommodate them.

Press down on the balls with your palm to flatten them. Let them rise in a warm place (about 15 minutes).

Flatten the risen buns again and make a deep indentation in the center of each.

Brush the edges with Egg Wash. Put Cheese Filling in the middle, place fresh peaches on the top.

Sprinkle Streusel over peaches. Let the completed kolaches rise for an additional 15 to 20 minutes; meanwhile, heat oven to 350 degrees.

Place trays, one at a time, on the middle rack of heated oven and bake 20 to 30 minutes.

Brush the edges of the kolaches with melted butter. Cool slightly before serving.

FOR EGG WASH

Combine egg yolks with milk and whisk with fork.

FOR CHEESE FILLING

Combine cheese with sugar, egg yolk and lemon zest.

FOR STREUSEL

Mix the flour and sugar together.

Rub the butter into the flour/sugar mixture to form a crumbly topping.

Source: Chris Dunn/adapted from a recipe from Denise Mazal

TEX-CZECH SAVORY KOLACHES

Adapted from a recipe from Denise Mazal

Kolache dough (see cheese and peach kolache recipe)

8, 4-inch smoked sausages, cut in half lengthwise

Egg Wash (see cheese and peach kolache recipe)

Prepare dough according to recipe above. After you have divided each cylinder into eight equal pieces (2 ounces each) and formed small balls, roll each ball into a flat, oblong shape the size of your hand.

Lay a piece of sausage on the dough and roll up, fully encasing the sausage.

Press seams tightly together and lay kolache seam side down on parchment-lined baking sheets (you will need two standard size baking sheets).

Leave room between the kolaches for expansion. Let kolaches rise for 15 to 20 additional minutes; meanwhile, heat oven to 350 degrees.

Brush risen kolaches with egg wash if desired; place trays on the middle rack of oven and bake for 20 to 30 minutes. Best served warm.

NOTE: Some cooks like to fully encase the sausage with dough; others like the sausage to stick out ends of dough like pigs in a blanket. Fillings that contain cheese are best fully encased.