Peartree House

Edinburgh is blessed with good pubs, but not with good beer gardens, perhaps because there's not often the weather for them. If the sun does make an appearance, make a dash for the Pear Tree, adjacent to Edinburgh University's main campus in the Old Town. Its large cobbled suntrap, with high walls to block any cooling winds and several large benches for groups, is where lecturers might find all their truanting students on a nice day. During summer the outdoor area also hosts barbecues and live music from local bands.

• 38 West Nicolson Street, 0131-667 7533. Open Mon-Thurs 11am-midnight, Fri-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 12.30pm-midnight

The Caley Sample Room

Caley Sample Room

An institution in the west of the city, the Caley Sample Room is a gastropub that gets everything right. Named after the Caledonian Brewery down the road, it now reserves just one pump for Caley beer – Deuchars IPA – but stocks several guest ales and speciality beers, plus 24 wines by the glass and the same number of whiskies. It earned a nomination for Best Pub Grub at the 2010 Scottish Restaurant Awards thanks to its thoughtful takes on classic pub meals, and its less common dishes such as haggis parcels with turnip and thyme jus, and pan-seared sea bass with clam, potato and pancetta chowder. Book in advance on match days – Murrayfield and Tynecastle stadiums are both nearby.

• 42-58 Angle Park Terrace, 0131-337 7204, thecaleysampleroom.co.uk. Open Mon-Thurs noon-midnight, Fri noon-1am, Sat 11am-1am, Sun 11am-midnight

The Last Drop

A wide hollow in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle, the Grassmarket used to be the scene of regular public hangings, but is now one of Edinburgh's busiest drinking areas. The traditional pubs all tend to be popular with tourists and wedding parties at weekends, so some locals regard them as inauthentic and overpriced. The Last Drop is a characterful exception: it's dark and dimly lit, with wooden beams and brick archways leading to a back room covered in foreign banknotes and bright posters for local events. A healthy mix of people from all walks of life attend, with students and local workers joining the visitors. It serves good pub food – the fajitas are recommended – with a sizable student discount

• 74-78 Grassmarket, 0131-225 4851. Open Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 12.30pm-1am

The Port O'Leith

Visit the Port O'Leith on a weekday afternoon and you might struggle to understand why it has a reputation that stretches far beyond Edinburgh. By day it's no more than a colourful local bar, with a ceiling covered in maritime flags and walls adorned with scruffy life jackets and buoys acquired from visiting sailors. By night, and particularly at weekends, the place is transformed into a party pub where, for lack of a dancefloor, the dancing often spills up on to the bar itself. It can get very rowdy, so don't go for an intimate evening or quiet conversation, but a Saturday night in the Port O'Leith is sure to be memorable.

• 58 Constitution Street, 0131-554 3568. Open Mon-Sat 9am-1am, Sun 12.30pm-1am

The Regent

East of the city centre on Abbeyhill, the Regent isn't easily chanced upon, but those who know it are happy to go out of their way. It's a gay-friendly real ale pub that has twice been voted Pub of the Year by Edinburgh Camra, thanks to its four ale pumps and intriguing bottled beers. Deuchars IPA and Westons Old Rosie scrumpy are always on, and local, national or seasonal beers guest on the other two pumps The honey-brewed Waggle Dance and Liefmans fruit beer are bottled options for the sweet-toothed. In the red-and-orange main room you can pick a book, magazine or board game from the giant shelves, or retreat to the smaller green room where a different local artist is showcased each month.

• 2 Montrose Terrace, 0131-661 8198. Open Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 12.30pm-1am

The Sheep Heid Inn

At the end of a long walk, a short cycle, or a 30-minute bus ride round the back of Arthur's Seat is the village of Duddingston and its deservedly famous Sheep Heid Inn. It is said to have been established in 1360 – which would make it the oldest pub in Scotland. Mary Queen of Scots was apparently a regular patron, as was her son James VI, who gave the landlord a ram's head snuff box – hence the name and the sheep heids on the walls. There's a beer garden, a conservatory area and, most exciting of all, a 19th-century skittle alley, which can be hired for the evening.

• 43-45 The Causeway, Duddingston, 0131-661 7974, sheepheid.co.uk. Open Mon-Thurs 11am-11pm, Fri, Sat 11am-midnight,Sun 12.30pm-11pm

The Holyrood 9A

Holyrood 9A

Half a mile from Edinburgh's controversial Scottish Parliament building is this smart, atmospheric bar serving probably the best pub burgers in the city. Revived and redecorated by new owners in 2009, it is now an inviting spot, with high white ceilings, dark wood-panelled walls and a beautifully lit chrome display wall behind the bar. There are 20 beer taps, featuring premium European lagers, wheat beer and even raspberry beer; several of Scotland's best beers from the BrewDog and Harviestoun breweries; and guest ales too. If choosing a beer is tricky enough, there are also 19 gourmet burgers, including The Bohemian which comes topped with chilli gouda, sliced turkey, rocket, prosciutto and pesto mayo.

• 9A Holyrood Road, 0131-556 5044, fullerthomson.com. Open Mon-Thurs, Sun 10am-midnight, Fri, Sat 10am-1am

Joseph Pearce

Joseph Pearce

Between Leith's shore area and the top of Leith Walk in the city centre are four fantastic bars owned by a friendly Swedish couple: Sofi's, Boda Bar, Victoria and Joseph Pearce. Each has been decorated in a gently bohemian style, and all four host regular events aimed at bringing people together, such as a knitting club and book clubs, a jogging club that stretches between the two most distant bars, and live music. The pick of the bunch is Pearce's, the closest one to the centre. It serves beautifully presented food, has high ceilings and huge windows that bathe the bar in light, and a large outdoor area where you can sit in the sun and people-watch.

• 23 Elm Row, 0131-556 4140, bodabar.com. Open Sun-Thurs 11am-midnight, Fri, Sat 11am-1am

The Blue Blazer

On a chilly winter evening, there's nowhere better in Edinburgh than the Blue Blazer, a cosy two-room pub halfway between the Lothian Road and the Grassmarket. Attracting local regulars, art students, retirees and weekend visitors, the Blazer is always busy with drinkers enjoying the open fire and the convivial chatter. Its old blue leather benches and too-small wooden tables ensure the emphasis is on the company and the drinks rather than style. With at least half a dozen guest ales, around 50 malt whiskies and 75 rums (from Antigua, Venezuela and less common sources such as Australia, India and Peru) its tasting events are not to be missed.

• 2 Spittal Street, 0131-229 5030. Open daily Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 12.30pm-1am

The King's Wark

The King's Wark

The Water of Leith is little more than a countryside stream for much of its length, but it becomes the focus of Leith's night scene as it gets closer to the sea. Several good bars and restaurants line its verges at The Shore, but the King's Wark is the jewel. The low ceiling and rough stone walls tell of the building's 15th-century origins and create an intimate atmosphere when the light fades and candles are lit. There are four ale pumps and a decent selection of spirits and wines, but the Wark is best visited on an empty stomach: locals speak of the breakfasts and seafood-based mains in hushed tones of reverence.

• 36 The Shore, 0131-554 9260. Open Mon-Thurs noon-11pm, Fri-Sat noon-midnight, Sun 11am-11pm

• Ally Brown writes about travel and music for Scottish arts and listings magazine The Skinny