Prime Minister Tony Abbott's Canberra and Sydney wine cellars have been lambasted as tragic, bewildering, pedestrian and a little on the cheap side at a time when Australia advertises itself as a world-leading restaurant.

Public servants from the Department of Prime Minister and Cabinet say Mr Abbott has had access to more than 170 bottles worth $4700 for official functions he can offer the nation's most prestigious and powerful visitors.

The average cost of a bottle from Tony Abbott's government cellars is about $26. Credit:Bloomberg

Melbourne wine critic Jeremy Oliver lampooned the selections by saying stores at Kirribilli House, The Lodge and another 61 bottles held by PM&C's Canberra headquarters in the Andrew Fisher building looked as if they were curated by someone "planted" by the anti-alcohol lobby.

"I’m a patriotic Australian and these lists sadden me," said Mr Oliver, an industry critic for 30 years and author of an Australian wine guide written for the nation's fastest-growing export market, China.