The American pale lager is a beer that many love to hate. The most notable of its variety are typically macrobrew swill which is at times not just unenjoyable to drink, but rather actively offensive. Like the German helles lagers, it isn’t easy to brew since its minimalism leaves little room for off-flavors. But sometimes a capable brewery will attempt the style and deliver something that has some depth of character while still being light and easy-drinking.

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‘SANKATY LIGHT’ – CISCO – American Pale Lager – 3.80% ABV (Eye Choir’s Choice)

Appearance: Poured a light but firm pale yellow with a one finger, off-white head. There is a little bit of particulate haze as well as a mild to moderate amount of carbonation. 4/5

Smell: Very mild, but still stronger than most American pale lagers, with a forward lager yeast aroma which has a musty hay quality, as well as hints of pear and grape. Adding to the fresh fruit notes is a hop character which touches on citrus fruits as well as floral hops. A subtle grain aroma ties everything together from the background. Similar in a lot of ways to non-craft light lagers, but much more delicate and interesting. 4/5

Taste: Begins with a mild sweetness which brings out the classic cereal graininess, though a mild to moderate tartness quickly arrives, bringing more sourdough-like flavors from the malt, as well as accenting the fruitiness with a fresh apple juice note. This pairs very well with a herbal, green-tea-like hop note which rides in on a mildly bitter finish. Well balanced and awfully dynamic for such a mild, easy-drinking beer. 4.5/5

Mouthfeel: Very light bodied, with a seltzery carbonation that amplifies the acidity and ushers in a distinct dry finish. No alcoholic heat, and generally does not get in the way of the already subtle flavors. Makes this an absurdly quick drink though. 4.5/5

Overall: Keeping in mind the trappings of the American pale lager style have a mildness that nearly necessitates shallow flavors, this beer does an excellent job of keeping the familiar grain and hop flavors while providing enough faint details to actually be interesting. One of the few lagers that could sate macro-swilling casual drinkers and craft beer snobs alike. 4.5/5

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‘BLUE RIBBON’ – PABST – American Pale Lager – 4.74% ABV

Appearance: Poured an extremely pale and transparent yellow-beige with a two-finger, off-white head. There is absolutely no haze and a relatively minor amount of carbonation. 3/5

Smell: Clean but slightly sulfurous lager yeast aroma which is substantiated by a backbone of corn and grainy cereal malt. Only the faintest whiff of hops which comes across as perhaps floral. Very minimal and quite weak but not entirely unbalanced. 2.5/5

Taste:A mild to moderate sweetness serves up a hearty bready corn and barley flavor that is borderline cake-like and balances the faintly white wine-like must of the yeast that goes along with a very faint tartness. Mild bitterness in the back end has very little hop aroma, with only a faint grassiness. Very simple but not even overly so, with enough balance and freshness that it is quite drinkable and inoffensive. 3/5

Mouthfeel: Very light bodied, with a nice little carbonic bite that enhances the cool bitterness of the finish. No alcoholic heat, and a very watery mouthfeel, though these contribute adequately to the intended refreshing character of the beer. 3/5

Overall: Extremely simple and lacking in hops, but not entirely undrinkable, being neither particularly enjoyable nor unenjoyable. Not impressive, but given the reputation of other light lagers, it could be much much worse. 3/5

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‘UNDERDOG’ – FLYING DOG – American Pale Lager – 4.70% ABV

Appearance: Poured a pale, golden tan with a one-finger, light tan head. The body is quite clear, with a moderate amount of carbonation easily seen. 3.5/5

Smell: Grassy lager yeast aroma arrives first, augmented by some herbal and floral hops which have elements of tropical pomegranate or citrus as well. A background of clean pale malts supports these elements with notes of grainy biscuit. Somewhat simple but nonetheless produces a unique synergy, though perhaps a little bit weak. 3.5/5

Taste: Only the mildest sweetness, with instead a mild to moderate tartness sweeping the palate first, helping define the interesting balance between sharper fruit and spice flavors and a hay-like yeast character. The acidity is tempered by a refreshing mineral water impression. Malt is very mild, though in the mild to moderately bitter finish, some very dry stale bread notes come up. Balance is fine and flavors are somewhat dynamic, though in general there is a lacking of depth. 3.5/5

Mouthfeel: Light body, with a smooth mouthfeel. At times slightly watery, though this is propped up by a generous carbonation that accentuates a slight pucker through the dry finish. Lends drinkability, but not entirely notable. 3/5

Overall: No obvious flaws beyond a slight lack of intensity, though aside a somewhat interesting interplay between the yeast and aspects of the hops, not especially impressive. Certainly sessionable, anyway. 3.5/5

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‘SESSION’ – FULL SAIL – American Pale Lager – 5.10% ABV

Appearance: Poured a slightly dark but still brilliant gold with a one-finger, off-white head. No carbonation or haze at all can be seen, resulting in a totally crystal-clear body. 4/5

Smell: Dry hay-like lager yeast character that also features traces of grape skins and even a slight chalky earthiness. This helps lend a richness to a pale malt aroma that has somewhat of a mix between white bread and cornmeal. Faint floral hop aroma adds a delicate touch. Fairly interesting and dynamic for the beer style. 4/5

Taste: Biting mild to moderate tartness which accentuates the richness of the yeast before a mild to moderate sweetness comes in for an excellent balance. The corn flavor is especially prominent, even taking on a mild toasted character. Mild to moderate bitterness in the finish helps dry out the flavors, and even defines the hops into a pollen and grass sort of texture. Not super complex but nicely balanced and not boring. 3.5/5

Mouthfeel: Light body, with a sharp little carbonic bite that lasts well into the finish and breaks through the otherwise smooth, slightly slick mouthfeel. Very refreshing and easy to drink, especially in that its flavors aren’t particularly heavy. Virtually no alcoholic heat. 4/5

Overall: An excellent, sessionable lager, and though it may not be particularly intricate or experimental, it does exactly what it is supposed to, with great balance and enough restraint that you’ll keep coming back for more. 4/5