if the bed is not heated to the right temperature, parts can begin to cool non-uniformly and slight shrinkage causes the part to lift.

oil from your hands can interfere with the bond between your plastic and printing surface.

if you're using a perforated board to print on, it can warp and twist if it is not clamped securely

the amount of contact your part has with the print bed or raft of print can also impact warping. Try to plan the best orientation for your printed part





Printing on Gecko Sheets



I found this video on you tube, and it sold me. I ordered some of the sheets and tried them with my



Gecko Sheets





Using a Gluestick with Kapton Tape



I have read several forum posts that talk about the success of using a glue stick to help plastic adhere to your print bed. The video I'm using as an example demonstrates the use of glue with Kapton tape. I have heard of people using a thin layer of PLA glue or even hairspray.







Manipulating the Design of Your Part



Okay..... I'm not a huge fan of this next video or the solution, but if you can watch the whole thing, this guy has some useful information and helps explain why warping and lifting is happening in your prints. I firmly believed there are ways to achieve good prints, without having to modify the design of your parts. Ultimately you don't want to change your designs.



Okay..... I'm not a huge fan of this next video or the solution, but if you can watch the whole thing, this guy has some useful information and helps explain why warping and lifting is happening in your prints. I firmly believed there are ways to achieve good prints, without having to modify the design of your parts. Ultimately you don't want to change your designs.

Here are some other articles that are worth reading.

Printing on Support Material with Dummy Geometry

Printing on Double-sided tape

Adding disks to corners of prints

12 ways to prevent Warping and Curling I think this should give you a start. I'm sure there are many more methods that may or may not work efficiently. The only way to know for sure, is to try. I should also note, that I have only printed using ABS, and I'm not sure how each of these methods apply to different types of plastic.



The STL files to print this project are available below.







I found this video on you tube, and it sold me. I ordered some of the sheets and tried them with my 3d printed money belt . Unfortunately my print bed only has 2 mounting holes, and the gecko sheets have 8 holes in them. I think I will make some clamps to help secure the sheets and keep them from warping. I'm not happy with the part of the video that shows the guy removing parts from the printer while the sheets are still attached to the bed. NOT GOOD!I have read several forum posts that talk about the success of using a glue stick to help plastic adhere to your print bed. The video I'm using as an example demonstrates the use of glue with Kapton tape. I have heard of people using a thin layer of PLA glue or even hairspray.Here are some other articles that are worth reading.I think this should give you a start. I'm sure there are many more methods that may or may not work efficiently. The only way to know for sure, is to try. I should also note, that I have only printed using ABS, and I'm not sure how each of these methods apply to different types of plastic.Thefiles to print this project are available below.

When I really started getting into this project, I began to learn a lot more about 3d printing. I had to really start to push the limits of our UP 3d printer, and my design was slightly limited by the size of parts I could print on the machine.When I started printing the main body or stage of the stabilizer, I ran into a few problems. I'm going to provide you with information and links that will describe all of the possible solutions to the issues I encountered.The most common issue with 3d printing on UP 3d printers, Repraps, and Maker-bots is what most will refer to as "".Having the corners of larger prints lift from the printing bed can happen for a number of reasons.There are several methods that people are using to prevent warping of their printed parts. The success of these methods will vary based on your printer, the size and shape of the part you are printing, and the material you are using for your print.Please keep in mind that I have not tested all of these methods. I am merely providing a summary of some of the information I have researched on the internet.The advantage of printing on Glass sheets, is that the glass will not warp and twist like perforated sheets do. You do however, need something on top of the glass for the plastic to adhere to. The most common solution seems to be Kapton tape, which is a polyimide film developed by DuPont which can remain stable in a wide range of temperatures. Kapton tap is a little pricey though, and you'll likely have to order it online.I just found this video, and I think I might try it next. If you can successfully print without a raft, you'll be saving time and plastic. Not quite sure how well this works for larger parts, which tend to be the prints that lift.