With polls set to open on Wednesday, political observers say Malaysia’s election is too close to call.

There is much speculation the country could see its first change of government since independence after former Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamad returned from retirement to contest the vote as leader of the opposition coalition.

In downtown Kuala Lumpur, rising out of the shadow of the Petronas Twin Towers, is a skyscraper-in-making; still covered in scaffolding, but already taller than its iconic predecessor.

Labelled “The Exchange 106”, it is a pet project of Prime Minister Najib Razak, and with 106 planned stories, it is set to be the tallest building in Southeast Asia, let alone the country.

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Heavily involved in its development was 1MDB - the scandal-ridden state fund that many believed would topple Mr Razak. Established by the Prime Minister in 2009 to promote economic programmes, the fund accumulated billions in debt, after his associates allegedly stole and laundered from it.

Yet both Mr Razak and his skyscraper have survived, even surpassing the ambition of the building - and man - who previously held the title.

It’s perhaps apt: an illustration of the rivalry between two leaders for legacy, etched into the skyline of the capital.

A quest for redemption

For many - especially former Prime Minister Mahathir Mohamad - this election is personal.

He’s publicly apologised to his supporters for supporting Mr Razak, and choosing him as his successor. “It was the biggest mistake of my life, supporting [Prime Minister] Najib [Razak],” he told a rally of thousands a week ago.

Mr Mohamad says his attempt to topple his protege is his attempt at redemption.

He still has strong support among rural Malays, who remember him for transforming Malaysia from an agricultural backwater into a key trading nation under his 22-year rule before he retired in 2003.

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Returning to political life at 92, to take down the man he mentored as his successor, Mr Mohamad has insisted it is with “great reluctance” that he is running. If he wins, it will make him the oldest leader in the world.

A curious alliance

In his quest, Mr Mohamad has found a perhaps unexpected ally - opposition leader Anwar Ibrahim, the man he jailed for sodomy - who remains in prison after Mr Razak put him there for five years. In reportedly ill health, he has run the campaign of the PKR (translation) from his hospital bed.

Together, along with another three parties, they have formed the Pakatan Harapan, or the Alliance for Hope.

Despite their declared differences, Mr Mohamad insists they have now found common ground.

"He (Anwar) shares my view and I share his view, that we must get rid of Najib, because Najib is disastrous for the country,” he said last month. “And because we have the same objective, this objective is very, very important, very serious. It outweighs our previous problem with each other. We were prepared to forget about the past and focus on removing Najib."

Mr Ibrahim’s daughter Nurul Izzah, herself an opposition lawmaker, says her father has forgiven Mr Mohamad. “It's time for us to be actively playing our part, you know, to design the Malaysia that we want, and that Malaysia has to be inclusive,” she said.

A confident national front

The ruling Barisan Nasional coalition has proven to be resilient. In power for six decades despite persistent corruption allegations amid its ranks, as well as a recently faltering economy, its leaders remain confident of victory.

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Mr Razak has promised to create three times more jobs than the opposition, if given the mandate to lead the country for another five years.

And even though in the last general election in 2013, the ruling coalition lost its majority, Mr Razak insists they will do better this time around.

“There is no movement for changing the government, I don’t see that,” he declared in April. “That’s not saying that we’ll win with a huge majority, no, I’m not going to predict that, but I’m going to say that we are reasonably sanguine about the result.”

Free and fair?

Election watchdog Bersih says that’s because the ruling coalition has gerrymandered the electoral map, introduced a stringent and subjective “fake news” law, created a culture of fear, and appointed an Electoral Commission that’s far from impartial.

“Bersih” is the Malay word for “clean”, and Deputy Chairman Shahrul Aman Mohd Saari says the organisation has been trying to clean up the election system for years, only to be sidelined by the Electoral Commission. This year, the Commission has also banned the Human Rights Commission from monitoring the poll.

Bersih says it continues to document hundreds of alleged registered voters residing at the same homes; while more than two million voters remain registered without addresses.

“Even though Bersih has declared that these elections are not free and fair, we are all working extremely hard to get people out to vote,” Mr Saari says. “Only a high voter turnout can beat the cheating and the rigging of elections.”

Persistent dissent

Political cartoonist Zunar agrees. Previously been arrested for his work, his books and artworks seized by authorities, he has been charged with multiple counts of sedition - but it hasn’t stopped him from releasing a special election series.

In his current studio - he constantly moves to avoid the police - Zunar grins. “If you cannot beat them, laugh at them, they cannot do anything about it,” he shrugs.

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He doesn’t hide his disdain for the government.

“In one of the interrogations by the police, I told them, you can ban my cartoons, you can ban my books, but you cannot ban my mind,” Zunar says. “I will keep drawing until my last drop of my ink.”

This year, he has tried to make his political cartoons accessible, he explains. Prominent in much of his work is Mr Razak’s wife, Rosmah, depicted with her Birkin bag, dripping in jewels. “People may not always understand all the political talk,” Zunar says, “but they understand diamond rings and corruption.

He has drawn an election explainer too: a caricature of two men brandishing playing cards. In Prime Minister Razak’s hand, a sketch of a top hat and magic wand; while opposition leader Mr Ibrahim wields a card with just one image - Mr Mahathir Mohamad.

“Najib’s weapon is tricks and cheating, whereas Anwar’s weapon is Mahathir,” Zunar explains.

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The potent political alliance was forged last year. Zunar has a cartoon for that moment too: current Prime Minister Razak trapped and suffocated by their handshake.

“This [handshake] can bring down Najib,” Zunar nods. “Both shake hands and Najib is in the middle. They squeeze Najib with both hands.”

On the streets, that pressure is visible and mounting.

The racial divides that once defined Malaysian politics have become increasingly porous, as a majority Malay-led opposition coalition takes on a majority Malay-led ruling coalition. Arguments that the opposition lacks experience have now been countered with the country’s historical strongman Mr Mohamad at its helm.

Money and trust

How many will vote on election day comes down to trust - and the economy.

In the opposition-controlled constituency of Lembah Pantai, a multitude of party flags festoon every wall, street and satellite dish. Electoral lines have been recently redrawn, and the ruling coalition hopes to reclaim the area. It’s a declared battleground district and senior party leaders visit regularly.

At the Monday night market, Mahadi now sells grilled chicken wings, after rising taxes - including a new Goods and Services Tax - and petrol prices forced him to quit taxi driving.

He says he will be voting for the opposition, but not because he doesn’t trust the current prime minister.

“Actually, we don’t care what he does,” he shrugs. “But you have to take care of the people, especially those living in poverty.”

“Malaysia is a rich country, full of resources,” he says. “But still so many are poor.”

Many here have remained staunch ruling Barisan Nasional supporters. And they are quick to point out that the new opposition figurehead once faced his own allegations of corruption and authoritarian rule.

“Whoever becomes Prime Minister, a lot of problems arise. Look at Mahathir’s time. There were a lot of problems then too,” one retiree shakes his head.

Here, hope is laced with cynicism that change - if it comes - will truly be change at all.