Also referred to as “Lydiard Lacing” , this variation of straight lacing eliminates the underlying diagonals, which looks neater plus relieves pressure on the top ridge of the foot.

Note that most military forces have regulations for just about everything, so I'd recommend that military personnel check before they adopt this – or any other – possible non-regulation lacing method!

Like other straight lacing methods, Straight Bar Lacing has an additional benefit for sporting or military use: The upper horizontal sections of shoelace can be quickly cut through with a knife or scissors in order to more easily remove a boot from a broken, sprained or otherwise injured ankle or foot.

On shoes with an odd number of eyelet pairs (eg. 7 pairs = 14 eyelets), a workaround is needed so that the ends still meet. The “across and back” workaround (shown above) is probably the best compromise in terms of retaining the overall look plus allowing a regular knot.

Straight Bar Lacing only works neatly on shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 8 pairs = 16 eyelets). This is because the shoelace must cross the shoe an even number of times so that the ends meet in the middle and can be tied together.

• At the second-from-top eyelet, run straight across on the outside, then straight back on the inside before tucking under the vertical shoelace segment inside the shoe (similar to the tucked segments of Ladder Lacing ).

• Alternate running up on the inside and across on the outside until one end reaches the second-from-top eyelet.

• Both ends continue straight across on the outside and in through the adjacent eyelets.

• Both ends run straight up on the inside, each skipping one eyelet and emerging two eyelets higher up.

• The left (blue) end runs straight up on the inside, then straight across on the outside.

• Begin straight across on the outside (grey section) and in through the bottom eyelets.

• Alternate running up on the inside and across on the outside until lacing is completed.

• Both ends continue straight across on the outside and in through the adjacent eyelets.

• Both ends run straight up on the inside, each skipping one eyelet and emerging two eyelets higher up.

• The left (blue) end runs straight up on the inside, then straight across on the outside.

• Begin straight across on the outside (grey section) and in through the bottom eyelets.

NOTE: These are approximate shoelace lengths for using this lacing on an average sized sneaker. For more accurate lengths, use the Shoelace Length Calculator .

Odd Workarounds

As mentioned above, Straight Bar Lacing only works neatly on shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs. Here's several common workarounds for shoes with odd numbers of eyelet pairs, using sample diagrams with seven pairs of eyelets.

Ends Tucked In

This first diagram shows how the ends don't meet naturally across the top of the shoe. For a quick fix, simply tuck the ends into the shoe diagonally across from each other at the top and second-from-top eyelets.

For a tighter fit, you could also permanently anchor the ends inside the eyelets, either with simple stopper knots or using Lace Anchors.

Across and Back

As shown in more detail in the main lacing diagram above, the second-from-top straight section runs straight across from left-to-right (on the outside), then right-to-left (on the inside), tucking under the vertical section on the left side. The inner straight section is fairly well hidden by the outer straight section, especially with flat shoelaces. Contributed by Jeremy J.

Twice Through One Eyelet

Lace the shoe normally, then at the top of the shoe, both ends emerge through the same top eyelet (in this case, the top-right). Feed one end across and out through the opposite eyelet (in this case, the top-left). When the ends are tied, there will be a double-pass across the top, but this will be fairly well hidden by the shoelace knot. Contributed by Dan S.

One Diagonal

Use a single diagonal somewhere in the lacing. At the top, it's less noticeable due to the loops and loose ends. At the bottom, if can even be run around the inside of the tongue to hide the diagonal, though at the expense of some slight discomfort. Near the middle, a diagonal may be positioned to line up with and run through a tongue centering loop (if the shoe has one).

One Crossover

Instead of trying to hide a single diagonal, this alternative makes a feature out of a single crossover, similar to the look of Roman Lacing. This crossover can be placed at either the top or bottom of the lacing, but unlike the above “One Diagonal” variation, it cannot be placed in the middle of the lacing.

Double Overlap

Like a squashed version of the above “One Crossover” variation, both ends run straight across one pair of eyelets and feed a second time through the opposite eyelets. Near the top, it's less noticeable due to the loops and loose ends. Near the bottom, any difficulty with tightening or loosening this section is not so noticeable as the shoe doesn't need to open wide at that point.

Combine with Lock Lacing

Lace normally up to the second pair of eyelets from the top, then finish with a High Lace Lock through the top two pairs of eyelets. Although this doesn't look as neat, it does pull the lacing extra tight.

See the Lock Lacing page for more information.

Skip One Eyelet Pair

All of the above odd workarounds are laced normally through an even number of eyelet pairs, then something is added that may be either visually or functionally awkward. An alternative is to not add anything – instead leaving either the top or the bottom pair of eyelets empty, or even to skip one pair of eyelets somewhere in the middle of the lacing.

Cut and Tie Off

Finally, if you're prepared to cut your shoelaces, the two portions can be anchored diagonally opposite each other at the bottom of the shoe, either with simple stopper knots or using Lace Anchors.

Note that the two “half” shoelaces should be different lengths. Use the calculations for Half & Half Straight Bar Lacing in the Shoelace Length Calculator.