Initial reaction:

Stripping everything back to its core.

Demeulemeester without the master:

This was the first season without Ann Demeulemeester at the helm, and felt very much like a cleansing ritual that honoured her philosophies and the codes of the brand.

A lesson in draping:

It was all about fluidity, asymmetric cuts, and light fabrics draped impeccably around the body. The familiar became the new, as soft trench coats were bunched and twisted around the waist, dresses came wrapped with capes, and sleeves fell long over the hands. For men, looks were accentuated with a burnished gold, on boots, shirts and jackets.

How they wore it:

With a subtle redness under the eyes, and eyebrows combed through with red pigment. Hair was wet and swept into a ‘ponytail’, sprayed tightly into place rather than tied. Like running your fingers through wet hair. Silver bangles were piled up arms, and bunched leather leggings underpinned every look.

Act I & Act II:

The collection came in two parts – a study in black, and then off white. It really felt like we were stripping back to the essence of the brand, honouring Demeulemeester's incredible ability to electrify a monochrome palette with cut and fabric choice.