It may not surprise you that the wine panel loves cru Beaujolais. Over the years we have tracked its progress as one of the great wine values out there. When last we checked in, in 2013, we examined a cross-section of the crus in the excellent 2011 vintage. This time we are focusing on two, Morgon and Fleurie, both of which have many excellent producers.

Recently we tasted 20 bottles, 10 from each cru, from the 2014 vintage. This was not intended to be a complete assessment. Some of the best wines had not yet been released, and even so, we could not include all the top producers. Still, it gave a good sense of what’s available. For the tasting, Florence Fabricant and I were joined by Randall Restiano, the wine director for Eli Zabar’s restaurants, and Matthew Kudry, the wine director for Estela.

The 2014 vintage, we generally agreed, was a very good one, maybe even superb. The wines were gloriously aromatic, full of the aromas of red fruit and flowers, fresh rather than jammy. On the palate the best had great minerality, as if the floral, fruity flavors were laced with the essence of granite. And the wines had a sense of structure. You can certainly enjoy these wines over the next five to seven years, perhaps even longer.

It was not so easy in our blind tasting to tell the difference between Fleuries and Morgons. Theoretically, at least, Morgons should be a little denser and Fleuries a little more elegant. But differences in sites and winemaking methods sometimes blur those distinctions. I was right on just over half the bottles, which was maybe little better than if I had simply guessed without tasting the wines.

Our top wine was from Patrick Brunet’s Domaine de Robert, a producer I don’t remember encountering before, but I will certainly look for this terrific Fleurie in the future. It was bright, pure and complex, structured enough to age well.

Right behind was a cluster of excellent producers. Julien Sunier’s Morgon was also complex and structured, with flavors of fruit, flowers and herbs that lingered. Christophe Pacalet seems to get better every year. His 2014 Fleurie was pure and tangy, and, at just $16, it was our best value.