Deep-fried hot dogs at N.J.'s Rutt's Hut

Larry Olmsted, special for USA TODAY | USATODAY

The scene: Rutt's Hut is a beloved and long-established -- since 1928 -- roadside dining institution, though it's hard to imagine why you would be on the road on which it's located if not to eat here. As you approach for the first time you will almost surely think you are being led astray by your GPS. The setting is industrial New Jersey, empty lots in the shadows of a fenced highway paralleling the banks of the drab Passaic River. Rutt's itself is hardly a "hut" but rather a large red, brick-mill-like building, which fits the neighborhood's character.

When you arrive, it immediately becomes clear that this is the favored destination of many, with a large parking lot, visible rooftop sign and two restaurants in one. The front part is an old-school saloon, very much in the mold of an American Legion or VFW hall, dark and worn with a long bar down one side and tables spread around the room. It's not just a bar with a counter; the man who takes your food orders and barks them into an intercom is also your bartender. The menus are ancient boards hung above the racks of bottles and in this half of Rutt's, cheap beer is as strong a draw as cheap food. Around the back of the building is a very different establishment: a brighter, glass-windowed, fast food-style counter operation reminiscent of Nathan's Coney Island. There are a few stand-up or stool counters for eating on the premises and this is the family-friendly part of Rutt's, all the same food with none of the watering hole.

Reason to visit: "Ripper dogs," onion rings, fried anything, cheap draught beer.

The food: Deep-fried hot dogs may sound unusual to many Americans, but they are fairly easy to find in New Jersey and Connecticut, home to this unique regional preparation that enjoys a cult following. Rutt's is to hot dogs fans what places like Arthur Bryant's and the Rendezvous are to barbecue, high profile and hotly contested, loved or hated but not to be ignored.

How deep fried the dogs are varies widely – some places exclusively use fry baskets; others use a quick turn in a pan of oil or a hybrid of frying and cooking on a flattop grill. From the bar at Rutt's you can't see the dogs being cooked; you just see them appear through a pass-through in the back of the bar. But they clearly take their deep frying seriously, resulting in dogs whose skin darkens, blisters and splits from the intense heat, (hence the nickname, the "ripper"). There is also an extra-well done version called the "cremator" that appears blackened and split.

I like the idea of fried hot dogs and have had them at several places. They give a nice crisp snap to the casing while keeping the interior hot and juicy, and are not at as oily as you might think. But ultimately there are three main ways to vary the humble hot dog: in its cooking, in the quality of the sausage, and in the toppings. I've profiled a few places in this column that go the esoteric-topping route, while Rutt's focuses on the cooking – the only notable option is a unique house relish, with mustard, carrots, onion and cabbage. The cooking was well executed, but the dog itself -- a pork and beef mixture -- I found unexceptional. Note that there are legions who disagree, as Rutt's is beloved and a frequent topic on the many websites and food chat rooms devoted to dogs. It is often the fate of venerated institutions to disappoint simply because expectations are so high, as mine were at Rutt's Hut. Some fans consider it the nation's best hot dog. I don't.

So I did not love the Rutt's ripper, but I liked it and would gladly have it again. It's the kind of place that any neighborhood would be glad to have. And while the relish is not my cup of tea, I appreciate its novelty and definitely see how people could love it. It's also worth noting that if you simply order a hot dog, as I initially did, it is served medium, which is not "ripped" -- therefore, not as snappy -- and largely defeats the point of frying. Regulars often revel in their insider knowledge of how to order, but it would be nice if the bartender asked how you wanted it.

I tried a variety of things to sample the offerings, though it was hard to make a dent in the lengthy menu. My conclusion was that given its fame for fried dogs, the Rutt's kitchen knows its way around hot oil. Everything I had that was fried stood out, including the delicious fried-shrimp basket and excellent onion rings. Like the dogs, the shrimp themselves were serviceable but not exceptional, while the artistry came out in the frying. The shrimp, the onion rings, and the fries were all perfectly cooked, fresh out of the oil, hot, crispy but not too greasy. Deep frying is much harder than it looks -- an art that most restaurants don't get right -- but after 85 years, Rutt's certainly does.

Given that Rutt's is ultra-cheap, the dog is undisputedly a great value and certainly worth the price ($1.95). In fact, the menu, ambiance and prices suggest that little has changed here since the 1950s (including the light bulbs, making it tough to photograph the food). But what surprised me was the breadth of the Rutt's menu, given how famous its rippers are. There are burgers and BBQ beef and pork sandwiches – all under two bucks. There's a Taylor ham sandwich, a gyro and a fried clam roll, plus baskets of fried seafood. The list of full-on entrees ranges from steaks to broiled stuffed flounder, goulash to roast Long Island Duckling – all of them under $10. You definitely get your money's worth. That said, in the time I sat at the bar many regulars came in and every one of them ordered hot dogs.

What regulars say: "Two rippers." What every customer I saw in Rutt's ordered.

Pilgrimage-worthy?: Maybe – go if you are a hot-dog lover, otherwise only if you are in the area.

Rating: Mmmm (Scale: Blah, OK, Mmmm, Yum!, OMG!)

Price: $ ($ cheap, $$ moderate, $$$ expensive)

Details: 417 River Road, Clifton; 973-779-8615; ruttshut.com/

Larry Olmsted has been writing about food and travel for more than 15 years. An avid eater and cook, he has attended cooking classes in Italy, judged a BBQ contest and once dined with Julia Child. Follow him on Twitter, @TravelFoodGuy, and if there's a unique American eatery you think he should visit, send him an e-mail at travel@usatoday.com.