Discussion Topic Return to Forum List This thread has been locked Messages 1 - 19 of total 19 in this topic Dean Towarnicki



Trad climber Missoula, MT Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 21, 2008 - 08:58pm PT I recently went to a local Big Choss Country crag and my belayer, unknown to me, was flipping me off while I showed him how to pink-point a climb. He said it was "ethically immoral" and that "my bros wouldn't be stoked." I told him everyone at the gym does it, but he didn't seem to care about that. Should I have him belay me any more? Should I return the favor and give him the finger while on pink-point lead (which was probably rap bolted too, eh)? Should I find a Scout Master and get a badge. Thanks.



























ron gomez



Trad climber fallbrook,ca Apr 21, 2008 - 09:00pm PT Keep him, at least he's honest!

Peace Loomis



climber Lat/Lon: 35.64 -117.66 Apr 21, 2008 - 09:26pm PT Have him give you the DAS parka he is wearing and call it even. mojede



Trad climber Butte, America Apr 21, 2008 - 09:48pm PT Call hardrock up to straighten his asc out--hehe.



That Kootenai Cyn. ? Shrug



Trad climber Apr 21, 2008 - 10:01pm PT This (almost) looks like the picture from the 5th story down on this thread. :) http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=579462 Dean Towarnicki



Trad climber Missoula, MT Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2008 - 10:24pm PT Yeah, I'll tell Hard Rock there is some free gear involved. He will have my back then, cause nothing is better than feee gear to Hard Rock. Yup it's Kootenai. Warm up lap on Venus de Milo before hitting Ball and Chain. couchmaster



climber Apr 21, 2008 - 11:15pm PT Whats a "Pink Point" ? Mimi



climber Apr 21, 2008 - 11:42pm PT Asking about a pink point reminded me of this ale-spraying post by Russ in a classic thread, Perspectives on John Long's Climbing Book. Absolutely hilarious!



Russ Walling and I (Largo) put our heads together and came up with the following thoughts on the various modes of ascent.



Definition of Terms



Onsight Free Solo:

=



Angus McGillicuddy has never been to Mt. Hogwash. Walking along the base, Angus spots a line of bolts up an overhanging schist intrusion. He fancies the look of the route, laces up his boots, blows his nose, chalks up and gapes at several girls from the Swedish Sport Climbing Team, who are limbering up and changing into bright-colored lycra tights. Psyched, Angus winks, spits into his palms, then solos up the schist intrusion.



Free Solo:

=



Angus has been to Mt. Roughage several times. On two occasions, he's climbed the "Watercloset", a difficult route that follows a basalt intrusion via chancy dynamics. Angus has it in his mind to solo the "Watercloset". Now at the base, he laces up, touches his toes, exhales hard, then solos the route.



Worked Solo:

=



Angus has been coming to Mt. Peatmoss for 11 years. He's lead "Compost" 50 times, toproped it 70 times, and also on a toprope, has worked the crux bit over and over till he knows it better that the hair on his palms. Now he plans to solo "Compost", an intricate razor job up a monzonite intrusion. At the base, he flexes his guns, flexes his back, flexes his loins, jumps onto "Compost" and solos it in six minutes.



Onsight Flash or a Vue:

=



Angus has never been to Mt. Basura. One route, "The Offal", takes a loose line up a steep albeit trashy intrusion. Angus racks up and leads "The Offal", straight off, placing all the gear. He takes no falls, nor a single rest on the line.



Beta Flash:

=



This is Angus' first trip to Mt. Gizmo. At the local pub, Angus runs into Jack Nastyface, the local hardman. since Angus is buying, Jack describes down to the last pinky lock the sequence for climbing "The Honest Indonesian", an improbable Mt. Gizmo test piece following a sketchy dun intrusion. With the sequence memorized, Angus flashes the route the next afternoon.



Deja Vu:

=



It's been some years since Angus was last at Mt. Tallywacker. He remembers trying the "Chamfered Luby" and failing miserably. The successive lunges along the scarlet intrusion notwithstanding, he remembers little about the route. But, Angus is a better climber that he was 7 years ago and the next morning, he manhandles the "Chamfered Luby" on his "first" try.



Red Point:

=



Angus has tried to climb "The Widget" on Mt. Sputnik for 5 years now. He's aided it, toproped it, and studied it from a helicopter, (on jumars with opera glasses of course). Finally he leads it, no falls, placing the gear as he goes.



Pink Point:

=



Angus has been trying to climb "The Bullwhip" on Mt. Mapelthorp for 10 years. He's gotten close, and after hosing the windgate intrusion with Gumout, squeegeeing it clean, then buffing each hold with 600-grit sand paper, he wants to try the lead once again. But first builds a model of the route on his home climbing wall preworks all sequences to a "T", then finally on the day of reckoning... he raps down the route, places all the gear, then flashes the lead.



Brown Point:

=



Angus has never tried "Intelligent Gas from Uranus" on Mt. Bachar. He starts up the blank face between the two brown intrusions full of intentions to make a flash ascent. Things go awry in a hurry, and Angus is soon hanging from the cord. He's quickly on a toprope, pulling through the first two grim bits. Later, stumped at the crux, he incorporates a side rope, one etrier and a 'come-along' belay. This makes Angus feel like he's got the strength of 10 men as he works out the crux. Within hours, he stands on the summit ready to rap down and place the gear for a 'pink point' ascent the next day.



There are however other procedures that Angus sometimes employs in his quest for the summit that are worth mentioning. For instance, he's been known to 'hangdog'. That is, after he falls off his lead attempt, he won't hesitate to hang on the rope, rest, then carry on, fully refreshed.



When Angus first went to Mt. Pipedream, he didn't have time for too many shenanigans, but he did want to bag "The Tijuana Virgin", a nearly non-existent line of pockets along as ivory intrusion. To save time, he rapped down to the crux, worked it out on toprope, then rapped down to the deck and 'red pointed' the route. thus, Angus had 'speed dogged' the route (also known as 'greyhounding').



At Mt. cameltoe, Angus desperately wanted to scale "The Man in the Boat", but first wanted the beta. He sent his hapless buddy Shawn O'Sean up to work out the moves while he watched smugly from below. Shawn was 'seeing-eye doggin' for Angus, who was then set to try his Beta Flash.



Also, at Mt. Cameltoe, Angus took a liking to "The Pipefitter". He did not, however, like the looks of the first bolt, which was 30 feet off the talus slope from hell below. Angus needed a 'coon dog' to go up and fetch him that first clip. Shawn had already mounted "The Pipefitter" 69 times before, and gladly 'coon dogged' for Angus. He clipped the first bolt, lowered, then handed off the blunted sharp end for Rover to take over in relative safety.



Angus encountered a similar situation at Mt. Hamstring. "The Rocky Mountain Oyster", followed an overhanging intrusion and the first bolt, way the hell up there, already had a quickdraw on it. Nobody's fool, Angus took a long bight of rope, twirled it overhead like a lariat and hurled it at the in situ quickdraw. the bight of rope hit the dogleg biner at the gate and with a click!, Angus was clipped in! He named this method the 'rodeo clip'.



Angus certainly is not one, but he's known a few "dog's asses".

These craven swine cannot accept defeat and alter an existing route to make it easier for them to scale, placing additional bolts, chiseling holds, etc: Starvation, thirst and financial ruin to them all! Jingy



Social climber Flatland, Ca Apr 21, 2008 - 11:47pm PT locker - Do you mean that you'd probably kick a guys azz for taking the brake hand off?



Hey, if you can't trust the person you are climbing with.... mission



Social climber boulder,co Apr 22, 2008 - 12:48am PT They sure don't make 'em like

The Fish any more... Hard Rock



Trad climber Montana Apr 22, 2008 - 09:42am PT Dean-



If that's Brenden I will have a talk with him. I set him up with a hanging belay and aid off his shoulder and then head. As for gear - I just scored a number 5 stopper at the UM sale last week ($1.00 - no sling). I told Brenden I would let him read Old Number 5 since he couldn't find it on the Climbing web page but if his behavior doesn't improve I will withdrawl the offer.



-Kurt ktmt



Sport climber Montana Apr 29, 2008 - 06:10pm PT Look, I've climbed with and been belayed by both these bro's and you're all missing the point. Even you Dean.



First, let's remember this is western Montana. Now look at the belayer --we'll call him "BQ"-- the shaggy hair, the beard AND a puffy jacket?? No way he's sporting any over-complicated, springloaded, Gri-Gri bling. That's a Muenter hitch or my forum identity isn't Anonymous.



Second, BQ would never flip you the bird! He's obviously giving you sick 'beta on the double mono crux of some heinous overhanging limestone crimpfest. You know how he loves that stuff.



The real question is: can you trust those anchors once you've fired the pink point?



P.S. I hope you didn't tell Hard Rock about the old fixed stopper to your left.

Anastasia



climber Not here Apr 29, 2008 - 06:47pm PT He might have a third hand, let me take a closer look.

He is using something but it is so small...





atchafalaya



climber Babylon Apr 29, 2008 - 06:54pm PT shes kinda hot, and it looks like she has a bad attitude. I say keep her! Jaybro



Social climber The West Apr 29, 2008 - 08:03pm PT I've heard tha tthat "bullwhip route" on Mt MApelthorp has only been brownpointed... Dean Towarnicki



Trad climber Missoula, MT Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2008 - 09:53pm PT I have considered all your comments and have decided to not climb with, lets call him "BQ". Though he was using a munter hitch or grigri (i cant remember cause i was so drunk) it was backed up by the one gallon jug of water, though only half full... for style. I think i will be climbing with this individual for now on. She is constantly lecturing me about safety, so thats good, and other unimportant reasons.





Hard Rock



Trad climber Montana Apr 30, 2008 - 09:45am PT Dean-



Don't climb with BQ. I know for a fact that he hasn't caught a leader fall when waking up from a nap (pre auto belay devices - 3rd day on a wall). And I'm not sure he is any good at hip belays. Anyway, I can provide belay backup for your lady. Also, we can start climbing my woody if it ever warms up (jennifer reported snow at the cabin yesterday afternoon).



-K jsmiley



climber Montana Apr 30, 2008 - 08:48pm PT Hey there,

Never posted anything on Supertopo before...but this photo really concerns me and I feel the need to reply. First off, in response to "Hardrock", this is Kootenai Canyon, Missoula's only gym now that the Rock Garden went in the red. How does this gym compare to all those fancy gyms in Boulder: 1) is the parking suffice, can you get the van down the trail to the base of the Boardwalk Ledge. 2)Maybe we can get, what is his name "BQ", as punishment for taking his brake hand off (Gri Gri or not), in case any area youth--who may look up to this man--catch wind of this and begin to display such bad habits, maybe HE can start carrying in all our gear for us; or wait better yet, "Hardrock" have him take precise measurements of all our hands and then go reshape Arm's Race...yeah like Boulder ahhhhhh yes Boulder.

Anyway I'd like to address the climber, Dean T....., shame on you! No, not for climbing with folks, who give away the double middle digit monos required to warm up on this climb, as there laughter echoes down the canyon and pisses off all the fisherman cause the fish have been scared off, or convinces the tourons that Montana's wildlife DOES include orangutans and howler monkeys, no none of this...what bothers me dearly is some of the training you may have endured to, just to merely "pinkpoint" said warmup...if all these folks only knew you were doing countless pullups at parties, not to impress a lady like everybody else does, but just to outdo the KOOTENAI MASTER....

cheers Hard Rock



Trad climber Montana May 1, 2008 - 03:01pm PT Hard Rock came from a pen name I used when writing some climbing fiction in the mid 80's. One piece was the whole letter section for Climbing. One of the letters explain how I was changing my legal name from Kurt Krueger to Hard Rock.



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