Kerala’s passion for football is legendary, but to experience its intensity, visit Mekkad near Angamaly, some 40 km off Kochi. In the hours leading to the kick-off of the World Cup in Russia, the village erupted in celebrations, with fans taking out a roadshow. With loud music trailing behind, the group stopped and danced at every junction. “When the whole world shrinks to the size of a football, how can one not get into the flow,” asks Baijin Abraham, an ardent fan.

Almost everyone in the village shares the football fervour. Banners and posters of favourite teams and players adorn every corner. When the game is on, the streets are empty, with fans glued to television screens. Many of them cluster in “House of Brazil”, the piece de resistance of all the football fervour. The home of Salu Paul is painted in the colours of his favourite team, Brazil, and he is certain that the Selecao will lift the cup this year. “Let’s wait and see,” he says.

His enthusiasm is contagious, rubbing off on the equally passionate football lovers. Salu’s home has transformed into a fan club. Live action from Russia is projected onto a huge screen installed for the occasion. He would not have it anyway else. This has been the routine for the past four World Cup seasons, and every year, fans throng the house to watch the game.

His wife, Lathi, wears a sari with Brazil insignia. Their daughters, Evena, 14, and Nayana, 10, are amateur players. During the previous World Cup, 300 football lovers witnessed the game at the “House of Brazil”, and the number has soared this time. Fans crawl in and out of the house from late evening. It’s like a huge festive ground where the enthusiasm for the sport never dims.

The heated debate now is about the sacking of the Spanish coach, Julen Lopetegul, just a day before the team started its campaign on Friday, conceding a draw to Portugal. Spain’s fans are desperate, while supporters of other teams share their concern. That’s the football spirit in Mekkad.

(K.K. Mustafah is a Senior Special News Photographer with The Hindu based in Palakkad)