Fans of Bud Light and Coors may be disappointed to learn that, unlike its sister store, Taste of Tops bar does not offer their beer of choice.

But that's fine by manager Kirsten Eccles. The new bar adjacent to the landmark Tops Liquors, owned by Kirsten's father Greg for 26 years, features 12 beers on tap and 500 beers by the bottle, a non-mainstream selection created by design.

"If they ask (for the mainstream beers), I've got hundreds of other beers here, let me find one for you," Eccles said.

Since it opened three weeks ago on University Drive a few blocks west of Mill Avenue, Taste of Tops has already gained a crop of regulars who enjoy unusual or hard-to-find beers that appeal to more refined palates. Several make daily visits.

"We felt like we needed to fill a void for a fine wine and beer bar. There's not much off Mill (Avenue). This is much more like a neighborhood bar," Eccles said.

Eccles said beer from only specialty kegs, no domestics, will flow from the rotating taps. Even higher-end mainstreams such as Newcastle and Guinness won't make the cut. Instead, they are reserved rarities such as Dandelion Lips of Faith, Sierra Nevada Brown Saison and a Firestone Walker IPA. Glasses range from $4 to $6.

A wines-by-the-glass list that features 20 white and red selections ($6-$14) and a small-plates menu, which offers hummus ($6), an olive bowl ($5) and an impressive cheese plate ($12), add unexpected elegant touches to the bar.

Eccles said customers express some surprise when they spot the wood L-shaped bar, cushy black couches in the corner, intimate tables and flat-screen TV. The bar's casual lounge look exudes a vibe different from the more industrial grab-and-go liquor store next door.

If patrons wish, they may choose a beer or wine bottle from the store and the bartender will bring it over. There is a $5 corkage fee and a nominal charge for beer that is consumed in the bar. Diners may bring in takeout meals from nearby Thai Basil restaurant and Tessio's Pizza to enjoy with their beverages.

Eccles said her bar sees a steady stream of customers from nearly the time it opens until last call. Her clientele is a mix of professionals unwinding after a long day at work, university students and neighborhood residents. There have already been a few date nights and many walk or bike over.

Plans include expanding the menu and offering more beer and wine tastings and art shows. Currently, artist Dave Wilson's work graces the walls. Taste of Tops first wine tasting is 6 to 8 p.m. next Wednesday and will feature Argentinean wines.

Regular Amy Manoil can walk to the bar from her central Tempe home.

"It's different from Mill, it's more relaxing," the Arizona State University student said as she sipped her Unibroue Ephemere, a Canadian beer from Quebec with a hint of apple. "It's a place for people who appreciate good beer . . . not a 50-cent Bud."

Phoenix native Andre Gironda admitted to being somewhat of a beer snob after living in Seattle, Chicago and San Francisco, cities that celebrate and boast the quality of their microbrews.

The Tempe consultant was very pleased with the selection.

"I don't know what I would do without this place," Gironda said over a glass of Tripel Karmeliet, a Belgian-style ale. "It makes me want to consider moving here."

Details: Taste of Tops, 403 W. University Drive, Tempe. 3 p.m. to midnight Monday-Thursday, 3 p.m. to 2 a.m. Friday-Saturday, noon to 10 p.m. Sunday. 480-967-5643 or www.topsliquors.com.