Explore Nevada: Incredible ski trip for Nevada fanatics Ancient trees and towering peaks make for unforgettable experience

Benjamin Spillman | Reno Gazette-Journal

Show Caption Hide Caption Explore Nevada: Spring skiing Wheeler Peak The highest peak entirely within Nevada is an incredible spring skiing destination for people willing to hike for their turns. (Images from Rick Gunn)

Both physically and spiritually, Wheeler Peak is about as far as you can get from a Tahoe ski resort without leaving Nevada.

The 13,065-foot peak near the border with Utah towers over a bro-free desert landscape of cattle ranches, windmills and wildlife.

It’s what makes Wheeler a practically perfect destination for people looking for an authentic Nevada ski experience without frills.

Wheeler provides Nevada fanatics a chance to tick off a visit to the only national park and the tallest mountain entirely within the state. It’s also an opportunity to visit some of the oldest trees on the planet.

And if you’re willing to lug your skis up the mountain you’re rewarded with a chance to soak up the incredible views while you make turns in places few skiers ever visit.

We made a scheduled three-day Wheeler trip in early June. The mountain was mostly snow-free when we rolled off U.S. Highway 50, aka, “the Loneliest Road in America,” into Baker in the Snake Valley.

That’s the most common point of entry into Great Basin National Park where we reserved a group campsite in the Grey Cliffs campground.

We picked Grey Cliffs because it allowed plenty of space for our group of five, three skiers and two campers, and it allows reservations. Other campgrounds in the park are first come, first served.

The group sites also include concrete pads under the picnic tables which make it easier and less messy for meals and spending time in camp.

But this trip was about skiing, not camping. Skiers on the trip included myself, Daniel Ellsworth of Reno, who was making his final overnight backcountry ski trip before his son is due to be born, and Rick Gunn, a fantastic outdoor adventure photographer from South Lake Tahoe.

After an uneventful night, we left for the Wheeler Peak trailhead, located at 10,000 feet at the top of Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive.

From there we started hiking on dirt using the summer trail to the peak.

Even though the trail has a low angle grade, hauling a full pack, skis and water at high altitude is a lot of work. With breaks to rest and take in the scenery we moved at about one mile-per-hour.

On foot, we covered about 3.5 miles and gained a little more than 1,900 feet in elevation.

Early in the hike we enjoyed views of Wheeler and Jeff Davis peaks. Once we climbed onto the ridge leading up Wheeler we lost our view of the peaks but gained a spectacular view of the Spring Valley to the east, nearly 6,000 feet below.

The final part of the hike, about a half-mile with nearly 500 feet of elevation gain, was off-trail over a snowfield and some talus.

Looking back, it was also the most treacherous part of the trip because ridgetop wind gusts of 35-miles-per hour were buffeting the skis on our packs which made it difficult to keep balanced while hiking over the rocks.

At about 11,900 feet we reached the top of our line, a narrow strip of snow sheltered at the bottom of a northeast-facing gully.

The snowfield near the ridgetop and just east of the line was sun-cupped but looked more hazardous than it turned out to be. That’s because by the time we reached that point the snow had softened and made it relatively easy to make turns despite the bumpy surface.

Once we reached the line the real fun began. The snow was soft and smooth and there was about 1,500 vertical feet of snow-covered terrain between us and Teresa Lake.

The ski down was incredible. The strip of snow was just wide enough for easy turns. And the view included Bald Mountain and Stella and Teresa lakes.

At the bottom of the gully we took off our skis for a brief walk over some rocks then returned to the snow and skied through trees down to Teresa Lake.

When we reached the lake, Gunn decided to cool down with a brief swim while the rest of the group rested up for a hike to the bristlecone forest.

The bristlecone forest is an area of Great Basin National Park marked by a stand of ancient bristlecone pine. The gnarled trees can live for thousands of years in a hostile environment. They’re among the oldest living things on the planet and the park has marked several with plaques that detail their age and other facts.

We had planned to ski to the trees but the snow coverage was thin so we walked the mile from the lake to the forest before heading back to the trailhead and parking area.

On the return hike I reflected on why skiing Wheeler Peak was such a memorable Nevada experience.

Mainly, it was an affirmation of a decision two winters ago to plunge into backcountry skiing.

The chance to experience the challenges and thrills of skiing away from the crowds, noise and chaos of ski resorts is the sport’s greatest appeal, at least for me.

And, contrary to popular perception, the Snake and other interior Nevada ranges can be superb ski destinations for people who are willing to do the work it takes to find their lines. Be sure to put "Wheeler Peak ski trip" on your Nevada to-do list.