Original Post

Bill Kirby · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480 Sep 24, 2013 · San Francisco CA What do you need to learn all that for? My cell phone worked great from the top of the Chief to almost Cal Creek! Haha..

bearbreeder · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065 Sep 24, 2013 · Unknown Hometown Kirby1013 wrote: What do you need to learn all that for? My cell phone worked great from the top of the Chief to almost Cal Creek! Haha.. well if u want the free whirly bird sightseeing tour



;) well if u want the free whirly bird sightseeing tour;)

Bill Kirby · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480 Sep 24, 2013 · San Francisco CA I always figured if I got into trouble SAR would walk across 99 from town to come get me. I thought I be able to relay on one of the dozen or so people watching me with binoculars by the bridge crossing the Sea to Sky to see my smoke signals! Wait.. that only happens on weekends.



Seriously, Bearbreeder, What do you carry for self rescue? I carry two autoblocks (plus a one I rap so three), a PAS and a spare ATC. I know I could carry less but I'm a Noob. Plus I'm feel comfortable I can escape a belay, jug up to grab broken ankle boy and then descend with him/her.



T

Jake Jones · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,819 Sep 24, 2013 · Richmond, VA bearbreeder wrote: a few people have asked me how i ascend, escape the belay or backup my raps without any slings/cords



bearbreeder wrote: 1. grab an armful of cord Ummm... Ummm...

bearbreeder · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065 Sep 24, 2013 · Unknown Hometown Kirby1013 wrote: I always figured if I got into trouble SAR would walk across 99 from town to come get me. I thought I be able to relay on one of the dozen or so people watching me with binoculars by the bridge crossing the Sea to Sky to see my smoke signals! Wait.. that only happens on weekends. Seriously, Bearbreeder, What do you carry for self rescue? I carry two autoblocks (plus a one I rap so three), a PAS and a spare ATC. I know I could carry less but I'm a Noob. Plus I'm feel comfortable I can escape a belay, jug up to grab broken ankle boy and then descend with him/her. T the reality is that if your at the top of a long pitch you may have almost no gear



IMO you should be able to escape and get out with no more than a spare biner or two and perhaps a single sling



the penberthy is one item that allows you to use the rope for friction knots when you used up all the slings on the pitch



its like the munter, anchoring in with the rope, biner brakeetc ... and other skills that allow you to use less gear where you dont have said gear ... or your partner dropped it while being mauled by a crag bear that inhabits the ledges



;) the reality is that if your at the top of a long pitch you may have almost no gearIMO you should be able to escape and get out with no more than a spare biner or two and perhaps a single slingthe penberthy is one item that allows you to use the rope for friction knots when you used up all the slings on the pitchits like the munter, anchoring in with the rope, biner brakeetc ... and other skills that allow you to use less gear where you dont have said gear ... or your partner dropped it while being mauled by a crag bear that inhabits the ledges;)

Bill Kirby · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480 Sep 24, 2013 · San Francisco CA bearbreeder wrote: the reality is that if your at the top of a long pitch you may have almost no gear IMO you should be able to escape and get out with no more than a spare biner or two and perhaps a single sling the penberthy is one item that allows you to use the rope for friction knots when you used up all the slings on the pitch its like the munter, anchoring in with the rope, biner brakeetc ... and other skills that allow you to use less gear where you dont have said gear ... or your partner dropped it while being mauled by a crag bear that inhabits the ledges ;) Thanks.. lots to think about now. Thanks.. lots to think about now.

Dan Felix · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 35 Sep 24, 2013 · Unknown Hometown A simple tautline hitch has worked for decades for those in the arborist trade. I, myself, prefer a Blake's hitch to a tautline for ascending. And the better part is, both can be done with a lot less than 15 feet of rope.

bearbreeder · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065 Sep 24, 2013 · Unknown Hometown Dan Felix wrote: A simple tautline hitch has worked for decades for those in the arborist trade. I, myself, prefer a Blake's hitch to a tautline for ascending. And the better part is, both can be done with a lot less than 15 feet of rope. ahh ... but the 15 feet includes the loop coming back and what you need for the leg loop ...and what you need to tie off the device, assuming prussic



in reality its quite a bit less ... but regardless the key is to plan for it before hitting the knot at the end of your rope



the best thing about the penberthy is that its VERY easy to remember .... tie it a few times and youll never forget it



;) ahh ... but the 15 feet includes the loop coming back and what you need for the leg loop ...and what you need to tie off the device, assuming prussicin reality its quite a bit less ... but regardless the key is to plan for it before hitting the knot at the end of your ropethe best thing about the penberthy is that its VERY easy to remember .... tie it a few times and youll never forget it;)

Greg D · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883 Sep 24, 2013 · Here I had hope and thought there could be change. Then I realized if you promised a reduction in cord usage you really mean an exponential growth. Next, your wife is going to tell us what to eat on long routes. And that no American climber should excel above climbers of other nations. Then, if we get to the top of a route, we didn't get there by ourselves.



Looks like a Flemhiest... Eh hem. Klemhiest (needed to clear my throat) with a twist.

Andy P. · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 190 Sep 25, 2013 · Unknown Hometown Noah, I have also used the modified tautline as you pictured. Someone taught this to me a while back as the "stitch prusik." Although it may be more difficult to move up and down the line, it seems like a better solution to me as it is extremely easy for most climbers (I would think) to properly evaluate if it is tied correctly, will it hold, etc. I guess if you are familiar enough with other knots and confident in their use like the OP, one should go with those.

Noah J · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 436 Sep 25, 2013 · Desert, NM After thinking this over for a bit, I rigged a weighted setup, and after testing a few different options, I found it easier to use the penberthy. It's simple to think of it as basically an in-line kleimheist. Doing this I was able to easily rig a 3:1 with both truck and progress capture friction hitches using only ~15' of rope end and a few biners.



Thanks for the idea Mr. bearbreeder!

bearbreeder · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065 Sep 25, 2013 · Unknown Hometown its actually more of a single strand hedden since the eye is at the bottom, not at the top like a kleimheist



but you get the idea ... its quite easy to remember how to tie



glad u found it of use



as a side note ... the hedden knot will hold on even nylon slings on my 8mm mammut phoenix, as well as with dyneema slings ... while a 4 wrap kleimheist will slip



IMO as rope get thinner and thinner we should start figuring out what knots and materials work with those skinny lines ...



remember that many of the rescue and other commonly cited tests are done on 10.5mm+ lines



;)



4 wrap hedden holding body weight on a 8mm mammut phoenix

Buff Johnson · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145 Sep 26, 2013 · Unknown Hometown I pull out my Scotty because his transwarp theory is correct



--I've never beamed three people from two targets onto one pad before!

Bill Kirby · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480 Sep 26, 2013 · San Francisco CA bearbreeder wrote: one interesting thing about the hedden is that you can turn it into a knot with an ABSURD amount of gripping power, but still be fairly releasable ... all with a slight variation basically you do one wrap UNDER the eye, then the rest above like a hedden mr. prohaska published this two decades ago "pleasurable" knots ... hmmmmm =P proof in the pudding ... heres 25mm nylon holding body weight just fine with 1 wrap under and two wraps over ... on old 7mm stiff cord no less !!! so if you ever need to jug back up a single half/twin ... or your tag line ... ;) Thanks! Definitely interested in tying one with webbing. Thanks! Definitely interested in tying one with webbing.

Andy P. · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 190 Sep 27, 2013 · Unknown Hometown I tried the Penberthy last night on a whim at the gym, and even with just the foggy memory of the picture I saw in this thread I found it easy to tie first time - so I am now a believer it could work for me. I will do some experiments this weekend at the crag, I am looking forward to it.



bearbreeder - this is a cool thread, can we start a biweekly bearbreeder column in which we get tech tips from you? I wish there were more people like you on the internet spreading knowledge instead of hoarding it. We could call it "bear's nifty tricks" or something!