Originally published as Beijing by Cadogan Guides.

Fun but authoritative, the book is written in the strong voice of someone who loves poking around Beijing’s hutongs, buzzing with pleasure at each new find… old China hands will even learn a thing or two. And the well-worn tourist attractions like the Forbidden City are given a new spin in a refreshing break from all the been-there-seen-that guides on the shelf. TIME.

More than comprehensive. Holiday Asia.

A vastly expanded and comprehensively updated second edition is now available on-line via Medium.

Contents and Index

Gazetteer: All the sights worth seeing in central Běijīng

Běijīng Suburbs and Beyond: Sights beyond the Third Ring Road, Summer Palaces, Great Wall sites, day trips to remote villages and much more

Background: History and background essays, stories, navigation aids, tables of emperors, etc.

Travel: Visas, entry formalities, public transport, departure—essential information about travel to and around Běijīng

Practical A–Z: Practical advice from books through laundry to wildlife

Language: How Chinese Works, key vocabulary

Walks: Links to city and rural walks mentioned in the text

Stories: Links to 50 brief background essays from the main text

Alphabetical Directory of All Sights

Alphabetical List of Metro Stations With Links to Nearby Sights

Gazetteer

Sights area by area

IMPERIAL CITY

Introduction to the Imperial City and Tiān’ān Mén Square

Palace Museum or ‘Forbidden City’ 故宫博物院, including Monumental Mismanagement, The Two Palace Museums, Where are They Now?, A Storm in a Coffee Cup, The End of the Emperors, The Last Occupant of the Forbidden City, Pride and a Fall, and The Ends of the Eunuchs

Jǐng Shān Park 景山公园

Tài Miào 太庙

Zhōngshān Park 中山公园

Forward to the Past (walk) including Huáng Chéng Gēn Yízhǐ Gōngyuán 皇城根遗址公园, Mahakala Temple 普渡寺, Imperial Archive 皇史宬, Chāngpú Héyán Gōngyuán 菖蒲何岩公园, and Běijīng Imperial Art Museum 北京皇城艺术馆

Tiān’ān Mén Square 天安门广场, including Square of Heavenly Discord, Tiān’ān Mén Chénglóu 天安门城楼, Monument to the People’s Heroes 人民英雄纪念碑, Chairman Máo Memorial Hall 毛主席纪念堂, Miraculous Máo, National Museum of China 中国国家博物馆, Great Hall of the People 人民大会堂, The Shock of the New, Grand National Theatre 国家大剧院, China Numismatic Museum 中国钱币博物馆, and Zhèngyáng Mén 正阳门

Legation Quarter (walk) 东交民巷 including Běijīng Police Museum 北京警察博物馆

China Railway Museum (Zhèngyáng Mén Branch) 中国铁道博物馆正阳门馆

Běijīng Planning Exhibition Hall 北京市规划展览馆

Běi Hǎi Park 北海公园

In Search of the Ice Houses (walk)

Peking University Red Building 北京大学红楼

SOUTH OF QIÁN MÉN

Introduction to South of Qián Mén — The Old Chinese City

Taking Pleasure from the Weather

Máo’s Maze

Temple of Heaven Park 天坛公园

Altars for all Seasons

Altar of Agriculture 先农坛

Běijīng Natural History Museum 自然博物馆

Táorán Tíng Park 陶然亭公园

An Early Bar Street

Húguǎng Guildhall 湖管会馆

Joining the Club

Out Clubbing (walk)

Former Residence of Jì Xiǎolán 纪晓岚故居

Cháng Chūn Sì 长春寺

Bàoguó Sì 报国寺

Ox Street Mosque 牛街清真寺

Islam in China

Fǎyuán Sì 法源寺

Grand View Garden 大观园

Museum of Ancient Pottery Civilisation 古陶文明博物馆

Yuán Chónghuàn Ancestral Temple and Tomb 袁崇焕祠和墓

Today Art Museum 今日博物馆

NORTH, AROUND THE BACK LAKES

Introduction to North, Around the Back Lakes

Guō Mòruò Museum 郭沫若纪念馆

Prince Gōng’s Mansion 恭王府

Princely Privileges

East Bank of the Hòu Hǎi (walk), including Former Residence of Soong Ching-ling 宋庆龄故居, Guǎnghuà Sì 广化寺, Guǎngfú Guān 广福观, Huǒ Dé Zhēn Jūn Miào 火德真君庙, Guō Shǒujìng Memorial Hall 郭守敬纪念馆

Drum and Bell Towers 鼓楼, 钟楼

Déshèng Mén Arrow Tower 德胜门箭楼

Xú Bēihóng Memorial Hall 徐悲鸿纪念馆

In the Depths of Many Flowers (walk), Méi Lánfāng Memorial Hall 梅兰芳纪念馆

NORTH AND EAST OF THE IMPERIAL CITY

Introduction to North and East of the Imperial City

Wángfǔ Jǐng Dàjiē 王府井大街, including Wángfǔ Jǐng Paleolithic Museum 北京王府井古人类文化遗址博物馆, East Church 东堂, Lǎo Shě Memorial Hall 老舍纪念馆, Theatre Museum of Běijīng People’s Art Theatre 北京人艺戏剧博物馆

National Art Museum of China 中国美术馆

Dōng Sì Mosque 东四清真寺

Lama Temple 雍和宫

Buddhism and Lamaism

Sōngtāng Zhāi 松堂斋

Confucius Temple and Imperial College 孔庙和国子监

Civil Service Examinations

Confucianism

Dì Tán Park 地坛公园

Tōngjiào Sì 通教寺

The Dormition Church 圣母安息教堂

Dōng Yuè Miào 东岳庙

Rì Tán Park 日坛公园

Zhìhuà Sì 智化寺

Poly Art Museum 保利艺术博物馆

Losing Their Heads

Imperial Granary 南新仓

Míng City Wall Ruins Park 明诚墙遗址公园

Ancestral Temple of Wén Tiānxiáng 于谦祠

Three Small Temples for Three Big Heroes

Ancestral Temple of Yú Qiān 于谦祠

Ancient Observatory 古观象台

CCTV Headquarters 中国中央电视台广播部

Former Residence of Máo Dùn 茅盾故居

China Agriculture Museum 中国农业博物馆

WEST OF THE IMPERIAL CITY

Introduction to West of the Imperial City

Guǎngjì Sì 广济寺

Temple of Ancient Monarchs 历代帝王庙

Sex and the Citizen

White Dagoba Temple 白塔寺

Stupa, Dagoba, Chorten, or Pagoda?

Lǔ Xùn Museum 鲁迅博物馆

Altar of the Moon 月坛

Jesuit Cemetery 利玛窦墓

Línglóng Gōngyuán 玲珑公园

Capital Museum 首都博物馆

Military Museum of the Chinese People’s Revolution 中国人民革命军事博物馆

Běijīng World Art Museum 中华世纪坛世界艺术馆, Yùyuān Tán Park 玉渊潭公园

South Church 南堂

Christianity in China

Báiyún Guàn 白云观

Daoism

Tiānníng Sì Pagoda 天宁寺塔

NORTHWEST BEYOND THE ZOO

Introduction to Northwest Beyond the Zoo

Educating Emigrants

Běijīng Zoo 北京动物园

Běijīng Planetarium 北京天文馆

Paleozoological Museum of China 中国古动物馆

Five Padoga Temple 五塔寺

Purple Bamboo Park 紫竹院公园

Wànshòu Sì 万寿寺

Great Bell Temple 大钟寺

Běijīng Suburbs and Beyond

Introduction

SUMMER PALACES

Introduction

Summer Palace 颐和园

Gate of Good Luck

Construction and Corruption

‘Old’ Summer Palace 圆明园

Architecture and Xenophobia

THE GREAT WALL

Introduction Choosing which section to visit, Getting to the Wall, Alternative approaches

Wall Stories

Jūyōng Guān 居庸关长城

Shuǐ Guān 水关长城

Bā Dá Lǐng 八达岭长城, Zhān Tiānyòu Museum 詹天佑纪念馆, Great Wall Museum 中国长城博物馆

Mùtiányù 慕田峪长城

Sīmǎtái 司马台长城

Pánlóng Shān 蟠龙山长城, walk to Jīn Shān Lǐng

Jīn Shān Lǐng 金山岭长城, walk to Sīmǎtái

Jiǎnkòu 箭扣长城

Huáng Huā Chéng Shuǐ 黄花城水长城

Huáng Huā Chéng 黄花城长城

TOMBS AND BURIAL SITES

Introduction Choosing which tombs to visit and what to look for.

Míng Tombs 十三陵

Eastern Qīng Tombs 清东陵

The Legend of the Fragrant Concubine

Western Qīng Tombs 清西陵

Sleeping with an Emperor

Museum of the Western Hàn Tombs at Dàbǎotái 大葆台西汉墓博物馆

Peking Man Site Museum at Zhōukǒudiàn 周口店北京人遗址博物馆

ARTIST COLONIES

Běijīng’s Artist Colonies

A Licence to Paint Money

Dà Shānzi 798 Art District 大山子艺术区

Cǎochǎngdì Art District 草场地艺术区

Big Character

Sòng Zhuāng Artists Village 宋庄画家村

Other Art Zones

VILLAGES, RURAL TEMPLES, AND SCENERY

Introduction to Villages, Rural Temples, and Scenery

Tánzhè Sì 潭柘寺

The Flight of the Beekeepers

Jiètái Sì 戒台寺

Shall We Have Dinner on the Terrace?

Tián Yì Mù 田义墓

Fǎ Hǎi Sì 法海寺

Císhàn Sì 慈善寺

Běijīng Botanical Gardens 北京植物园

Fragrant Hills Park 香山公园

Bā Dà Chù 八大处

Dà Jué Sì 大觉寺

Yúnjū Sì 云居寺

Hóngluó Sì 红螺寺

Silver Mountain Pagoda Forest 银山塔林

Cuàn Dǐxià 爨底下

Jī Míng Shān Yì 鸡鸣山驿

Tōngzhōu Pagoda 三教庙燃灯佛舍利塔

MUSEUMS AND OTHER SIGHTS

Introduction to Museums and Other Sights

China Railway Museum 中国铁道博物馆

China Film Museum 中国电影博物馆

Guānfù Classic Art Museum 观复博物馆

Central Academy of Fine Arts Gallery 中央美术学院美术馆

Marco Polo Bridge 卢沟桥

Was Polo Here?

Wǎnpíng Chéng 宛平城, Museum of the Chinese People’s Anti-Japanese War 中国人民抗日战争纪念馆

Sōng Shān Ancient Cave Dwellings 古崖居

China Aviation Museum 中国航空博物馆

Mílù Yuàn 麋鹿苑

Museum of Imperial Examination Tablets 北京励志堂科举匾额博物馆

China Red Sandalwood Museum 中国紫檀博物馆

Jiāozhuānghù Tunnel Warfare Site 焦庄户地道战遗址纪念馆

Tank Museum 坦克博物馆

Grand Epoch City 天下第一城

Olympic Green 奥林匹克公园, National Stadium 国家体育场, National Aquatics Centre 国家游泳中心

Yuán Dynasty Capital City Wall Site Park 元大都城垣遗址公园

Běijīng Auto Museum 北京汽车博物馆

Background

See also Stories, below

Introduction to Běijīng

A Brief History of Běijīng, Mongolian Beginnings, Northern Barbarians, Western Ocean Barbarians, The Boxer Rebellion, The End of Imperial Běijīng, Republican Běijīng, Communist Capital, Modern Běijīng

Emperors Ruling from Yuán Dàdū or Míng and Qīng Běijīng

Hútòng Walking

Where’s the Loot?

Ancient Pastimes

World Heritage in China

Travel

Before You Leave Home

Entry Formalities, Visa Types, Visa Requirements, Visa Applications in Hong Kong, Visa Extensions, Customs

Travel to Běijīng, By Air, By Rail, By Road, By Sea

Arrival and Travel into Town, From the Airports, From the Railway Stations, From the Bus Stations, From the Port at Tánggū

Travel Around the City, Plate Spotting, Travel Smart Card or Yìkǎtōng, By Metro, By Bus, Reading Bus Routes, By Taxi, Tips for Trouble-Free Taxis, Road Kill, By Bicycle, By Boat

Exit Formalities

Getting Away, By Air, Buying Air Tickets, Travel to the Airports, Checking-in and Airport Services, By Rail, International Rail Services (including Hong Kong), At the Railway Stations, Railway Vocabulary and Reading Train Tickets, Choosing a Type of Train, By Road, By Bus, By Car/Motorbike/Bicycle, By Sea, Tour Operators

Practical A–Z

Books and Maps

Crime, Scams, and Nuisances

Electricity

Embassies and Consulates

Entertainment

Festivals and Public Holidays, Potemkin Běijīng

Guides

Health

Internet and Other Digital Resources, Just My Fifty Cents

Laundry

Lavatories

Media, A Foreign Journalist in Peking

Money and Prices

Museums, Temples, and Historic Sights

Packing

Photography

Planning

Police

Post Offices

Shopping, How to Bargain in Běijīng

Socialising and Social Niceties

Telephones

Time

Tipping

Tourist Information

Tours

Wildlife and Birdwatching

Language

Elementary Mandarin for Travellers to China

How Chinese Works

A Mouthful of Stones

Walks

Forward to the Past

Legation Quarter

In Search of the Ice Houses

Out Clubbing

In the Depths of Many Flowers

East Bank of the Hòu Hǎi

Pánlóng Shān 蟠龙山长城, walk to Jīn Shān Lǐng

Jīn Shān Lǐng 金山岭长城, walk to Sīmǎtái

Stories

Civil Service Examinations

The Legend of the Fragrant Concubine

Where’s the Loot?

Hútòng Walking

Confucianism

Joining the Club

A Foreign Journalist in Peking

How to Bargain in Běijīng

Monumental Mismanagement

The Two Palace Museums

Where are They Now?

A Storm in a Coffee Cup

The End of the Emperors

The Last Occupant of the Forbidden City

Pride and a Fall

The Ends of the Eunuchs

Square of Heavenly Discord

Miraculous Máo

The Shock of the New

Taking Pleasure from the Weather

Máo’s Maze

Altars for all Seasons

An Early Bar Street

Islam in China

Potemkin Běijīng

Gate of Good Luck

Construction and Corruption

Architecture and Xenophobia

Princely Privileges

Wall Stories

Buddhism and Lamaism

Losing Their Heads

Three Small Temples for Three Big Heroes

Sleeping with an Emperor

Sex and the Citizen

Stupa, Dagoba, Chorten, or Pagoda?

Christianity in China

Daoism

A Licence to Paint Money

Big Character

Educating Emigrants

The Flight of the Beekeepers

Shall We Have Dinner on the Terrace?

Was Polo Here?

Just My Fifty Cents

Plate Spotting

Road Kill

A Mouthful of Stones