On a former fishing cannery pier jutting out over the Columbia River, Buoy's brewpub is bathed in light from floor-to-ceiling windows. Buoy also makes some of the finest light lagers in the state, whether it's a clean and biscuity Czech Pilsner that's become a staple all over Oregon or a world-beating helles whose roundness fills the palate. It's one of the finest examples of this tank-intensive style in Oregon. In an inverse of the experience at many Oregon breweries, the stalwart year-round taps—whether IPA, cream ale or dunkel—are usually a more rewarding experience than the one-off seasonals. The burgers, chowder and jalapeño-jam fried Bay oysters are equally reliable, as are the trademark spicy Bloody Marys. In summer, there are the sea lions. While the view from the patio out onto the Columbia River is nice, it's more fun to look through the brewpub's glass floor, where rutting, grunting sea lions are mere feet below. This, predictably, turns the thick glass floor into Romper Room, as adults maneuver around children sprawling above Astoria's most hilarious nuisance.