Like Dislike

The option that, perhaps, makes the most sense is to rebuild the existing engine. These days there are so many rebuilding scenarios, it can make your head spin and really lighten you wallet. With each one of the scenarios brings with it even more decisions and a host of mathematical calculations.

The major concern is just how bad it might be in the block. You can see much with just the heads removed, but what I could see of the cylinders and piston heads, seemed serviceable. Scored cylinder walls – bad; just trashed bearings – not so bad. This is the first unknown you need to know. From this point you’ll know the cost of just making it run again and how much $$$ you need or have left in the budget for any upgrades.

For me I don’t think I’m in this for just a ‘repair’- e.g. bad bearings – replace them and snap it back together.

Option 1: Rebuild it just like it is. Simply get a $600.00 kit and replace everything and put it back together – same heads, same intake nothing changes other than the knock goes away.

Option 2: Rebuild it better. For my 351C 2v, the simplest way is to add the kit and give it more room to breath. Add a 4 barrel carb and matching intake.

Option 3: Rebuild it bigger. Have the engine bore to 0.030 or 0.040 and find the matching kit (you can buy the rebuild kits to match the new bore) and add a 4 barrel carb and matching intake.

Option 2 and 3 give you more decisions you’ll have to make. How much horse power and torque will this changes make? Can you existing stall converter and transmission handle that increase? (My concern as I have C6 automatic) Will you need to change the gearing in the rear end to optimize the new power? Will this new power impact handling or frame/body? (The concern here keeping that body from twisting/rolling – my Mustang still has the sub-frame – being a unit body – installation of sub-frame connectors is on my list.) You are looking at a few Benjamin’s to make this all happen like it should – all based on the basic rebuild direction.

So these are some of the considerations I’m weight now for #ProjectSportsRoof.

Give me your thoughts?

Thanks for reading.

Tim

1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression Test Part I I’ve done all the clean up and all the adjustments necessary to get a good reading on the health of the ’72 351C engine in my 1973 Mustang. The next step is to check the compression. First up was to warm the car a bit and then pull the plugs. Here’s what the …

1973 Mustang – Project SportsRoof – Compression Test Part II This is the wrap up on the compression testing for the 1973 Mustang w/ a 1972 351 Cleveland power plant. You’ll might have notices that I referred to the remote tester, which is my code for remote starter…yeah…that’s it!!! All of these tests were dry test and I should have done a …

Share this: Twitter

Pocket

Facebook

More

Email

Reddit



Print



Like this: Like Loading...