Shake n Bake METHod Enso’s Story



Disclaimer:



The forthcoming post is a 100% hypothetical scenario that I’ve generated based on the information that I’ve picked up doing research over time… I have never actually done any of the things listed in this thread, they are illegal, and I do not want anyone else to do anything in this thread either as it is illegal. It is simply a fictitious story that I imagined.



So why am I writing this?



• To explain the process, start to finish, in an organized fashion in great enough detail that ANYONE (with at least some common sense) will be able to follow the procedure with successful and amazing results…



• To hopefully show the SnB critics that, if baked and cleaned properly, this meth will stand proud against any meth produced with any technique.

• Can it be recrystallized into clear/transparent glass shards? Yes

• Can it be eaten, snorted, smoked, injected, shelfed (anally administered)? Yes

• Can it Get you tweaking for 8-36 hours depending on tolerance? Yes.

• Can it be produced and cleaned to the point where it runs well on foil or glass pipe, leaves little to no residual black trail on foil or pipe (or none after proper cleaning), and cracks back? Yes.

• Can it produce around a 85% yield with extreme purity without recrystallizing? Yes

• Remember, d-meth (The most wanted isotope of meth which is produced by this METHod) is d-meth. Regardless of how you get the precursors.

The starting materials such as Pseudoephedrine (PSE)] to reduce into meth. I promise you, 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by SnB is exactly the same as 1 gram of 100% pure d-meth produced by a Birch Reduction, a Red Phosphorus Reduction, or any other methods its the impurities that make the meth different, and these impurities vary by the method one would use.

• If you are not familiar with these METHods… You don’t need to be, but I recommend that you do a little more research before you get started.

• BTW Contrary to popular belief, P2P TEK is NOT better than PSE TEK’s… P2P produces Racemic (50% d-meth isotope and 50% l-meth isotope) Meth, so it is LESS desirable assuming that the meth produced from both METHods are the same purity level.

• If I can make this detailed enough that you all can produce unbelievable stuff strait away, and you see how easy and relatively safe it really is when it is properly explained.

Here’s what this write up will do for you:

• Provide a source of information based on experience and chemistry background.

• Organize the good information into a very detailed but simple TEK that, hopefully, just about . anyone can follow and produce amazing meth.

• Painfully focus on the details of everything in hopes that everyone can understand.

• Provide accurate information based most heavily on successful experience integrated with accurate information from my research and studies.







Recommended Materials/Tools:

The tools that I use can obviously be substituted for others… Ex: You do not need baby food jars if you have a better or more convenient airtight container for your acetone/Epsom and Isopropanol/Epsom mixtures when you put them in the freezer if you want to recrystallize, but I highly encourage you to use the chemicals that I list, or something equal or better in quality.



• 1 Box of 12-Hour or 24-Hour (2.4 grams Pseudoephedrine)

(Can be Sudafed or any of the generics)

(Depending on the store and type, costs about $10 - $20)

• 90 grams Lye (Sodium Hydroxide – NaOH)

(Get crystals not liquid)

(DON’T USE DRAINO FFS)

(Sold as drain cleaner)

• 60 grams Ammonium Nitrate Crystals (NH4NO3 – AN)

(from instant cold packs)

(Most Instant Ice Compresses now are made with UREA… You need to get the AN.)

(You will use about 1 per 2 cooks or so)

!!!!! BIG HINT !!!!! (if you find it hard to find you can use AS((Ammonium sulphate)) just at a different ratio and that is (1.1 = 90 grams in this situation) and is easily bought as fertilizer)

• About 100ml of Dyethel Ether.

(WASHED Starter Fluid)

• About 200ml of Hexane.

(CRC QD Electronics Cleaner)

(I used Naphtha for a while, but it is hard keeping it warm enough.)

(Google it. Or I can for you )

• isopropanol alcohol

• 1 Sodastream Plastic Bottle (500ml)

(can get 3 bottles for $15)

(I highly recommend these they can withstand a fuck load of pressure, they normally be used to make soda)

• 2 Energizer Advanced Lithium AA Batteries.

(Energizer Ultimate works as well but they are more expensive and the case is harder to cut through)

• A couple bottles of bottled water

• Usually Around 30-50 drops of Muriatic Acid Solution 20% Muriatic to 80% Water (also called . hydrochloric acid –HCl)

• Some Acetone

(most hardware stores stock it as paint thinner)

• A pair of PVC Pipe Cutters

(Will be using these to cut the casing off of the batteries)

(hardware store)

• A couple pairs of plyers

(One of these will be used to hold the battery while cutting the casing, and the other will be used to pull the center out of the battery)

• A bunch of coffee filters

• A couple of cotton balls

• A blow-dryer

• A grocery bags to use as a trash bag

• A few 1 Quart ziplock baggies (I heard slide seals are great)

• 2 Eye Droppers

• Something to test PH

(Ph strips for a pool work wonders)

• A Mason Jar

• A sewing needle

• A plate to use as an evaporation plate

• A Plastic Funnel

• A blender

• 1/4 Cup measuring cup

• Any safety gear that makes you feel more secure (Kitty Litter, gloves, face mask, whatever)

(I do recommend something to breathe through so that you do not inhale a bunch of Ammonia. IT . SMELLS REALLY BAD.)

• Honestly, use common sense, do not store your lithium in or around any water or go doing this outdoors in the rain that’s just stupid. You will catch fire, Please, safety first.



I know that it looks/sounds like a lot of things to get up front, but don’t get discouraged. It will probably cost around $100-$150 for your first cook and around $20-$30 for each cook after that… You will likely yield between 1.5 – 2 grams of high quality meth that you can cut at least 25% if selling and still keep a very marketable product at $500 a gram where I’m from, so you will have about $750 to $1000 street value worth of product for each cook. This bee thinks that’s is a pretty good Return on Investment.



OK, Now we are going to do an outline or “RECIPE” of the actual procedure. I am doing it this way so that you can just follow a step by step process that’s not "too" wordy. Just make sure you understand what you are doing before you start. This process is EASY with VERY LITTLE DANGER “IF” you understand what you are doing.



Basic Procedure Outline:

1. Place a layer of Epsom salt into a cookie sheet and bake in the oven at 400 degrees for about an Hour or 2.

2. Crush the dry salt into a fine powder, and put about half an inch of the dry salt into each of the baby food jars

3. Add acetone to one jar and isopropanol alcohol to the other jar, each about 3/4 full seal them up with the lid and place them both in the freezer

4. Make sure your Sodawater bottle is completely clean and COMPLETELY dry.



5. Prepare an area to work, clean the area up, and have all the materials and tools easily organized and accessible in the work area.

6. Put your PSE pills into the blender, blend them until they are a fine powder, and put the powder into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid.

7. Measure out 90 grams of Lye and put the Lye into a small Tupperware container sealed with the lid.

8. Cut open the Instant Ice compress package, throw away the bag of water inside, measure out 60 grams or 90 grams of the AS put it into a Small Tupperware Container sealed with the lid.

9. Pour your Hexane into a plastic baggie and seal, and Put it aside for the next step

12. Removing Lithium Strips from 2 AA Batteries:

a. Hold one end of a battery tightly with a pair of plyers

b. Use PVC Pipe cutters with the other hand to cut through the battery casing

Hints: (Try to prevent cutting past the casing and into the inside of the battery as much as you can.

(You could always use a steak knife or something sharp to cut around the battery then just pull . apart)

c. Once the casing is cut all the way around the battery, set the cutter down and use the other pair of plyers to:

• Tightly hold the second end of the battery.

• Bend the battery back and forth with the plyers in each of your hands to ensure the casing is cut all the way through.

• While holding each end of the battery tightly with the plyers, pull the casing apart, and one side of the casing will come off exposing the “guts” of the battery.

• Discard the 1/2 battery casing that was removed and use the now free plyers to clamp on the exposed battery guts while still holding the casing with the other pair of plyers… now pull apart again and the “guts” will come free of the casing.

• Place the center directly into the Hexane in the Ziploc baggie, and keep them submerged in the fuel as much as possible.

• Repeat this process with the second battery.

• Remove the excess air from the Ziploc baggie and seal it.



13. Add the Tupperware container of AN or AS to the RV using the funnel.

14. Add the Tupperware container of Lye to the RV using the funnel.

15. Add the Dyethel Ether to the RV using the funnel.

16. Remove the Lithium strips from the Battery insides:

• Open the Ziploc baggie containing the solvent and the battery insides.

• Put your clean hands into the fuel and unroll the 1st roll of battery insides while keeping them submerged the entire time

• Locate the strip of Lithium (this will be the dull gray looking strip, not the black and shiny silver strip)

• Remove the Li strip while still submerged in the fuel, and discard the rest of the battery insides into a grocery bag (be sure to also remove and throw away the shiny folded piece of metal that will be attached to the strip of Li at one end or the other)

• Repeat the process for the 2nd roll of insides.

• Now rip off a piece of Li maybe 3 inches long, and begin tearing it into small pieces that can fit through the funnel and into the RV. (Doesn’t matter if they are flat, or balled up, or folded, just keep them relatively small)

• Repeat this process until all of the Li is in the RV.

17. Pour the fuel from the Ziploc bag into the RV using the funnel.

18. Remove the funnel and screw the lid onto the RV.

19. If the reaction is already building (Ammonia (NH3) bubbles emerging from the bottom layer of reactants and traveling to the top of the RV through the NP), by the time the cap is on…cool. If not, give the RV an easy swirl to get some of the reactants in the bottom to mix together and initiate reaction…

20. Blow-dryer can be used at this point, and throughout the remainder of the cook to initiate/increase the reaction in the RV.

21. While holding RV with both hands, use your thumbs to “push In” on the center of the bottle to test internal pressure.

22. Try this push test all the around the bottle to find the spot that is easiest to push in, and remember where this spot is as it is the spot you will use for monitoring pressure throughout the cook.



23. Allow the reaction to continue while monitoring pressure until pressure builds high enough to warrant pressure relief:

• These Sodastream bottles are really strong and can hold an incredible amount of internal pressure without failing (used for carbonation of liquids to make softdrink) , so don’t burp the RV until you are unable to push the bottle in whatsoever with the force of both of your thumbs pushing together.

• The first pressure release will probably be needed about 2-5 minutes after the reaction starts really going but go by pressure, not by time.

• After a few burps during the first 10-15min of good reaction, once everything slows a bit, you really only need to burp the RV a couple of times more prior to adding your PSE.



24. When pressure reaches the threshold, release the pressure in the reaction vessel (soda stream bottle).

• Slowly loosen the cap on the RV just enough to let A VERY LITTLE bit of pressure escape, and to get the reaction rolling strong again, and then close the cap.

• There may be a whistling sound as the high pressure gasses are venting out of the RV… this is a Good sign that you are letting the pressure build enough before venting.

• You may even see NH3 gas shoot out of the cap like steam blowing out of the sides of an iron… Scary, but VERY good sign that you are building the kind of pressure that you want.



25. You should see little tiny Bronze beads start forming around the RV floating just on top of the NP mixed around with the Li within the first 10 minutes if everything is going well.

• If the Bronze is not starting to appear within 10 – 15 minutes, it’s a pretty good indication that you are not allowing enough pressure to build in the RV, and you are either releasing the pressure too early, too often, or both. No big deal, Just be observant and learn.



26. Swirl the bottle and/or heat with blow-dryer as needed to keep the reaction continuing strong throughout this process.



27. Continue this process for probably about 25 – 45 minutes, (less burping and stronger ammonia reaction = quicker bronzing of Li = Less time… Kinda hard to give you an accurate time frame here) until approximately 3/4 of the Li in the RV has been converted to Bronze

• The color in the fuel will dissipate over these initial 25-45min, and the clear fuel will get foggy as it becomes saturated with Li Bronze particles.

28. Slowly loosen the RV cap, vent all of the pressure, then remove the cap



29. If the reaction is slowing down at this point, recharge the RV by adding a little bit more lye and AN (or SA) to the RV through the clean funnel. No more AN or Lye need to be added if the reaction is still going strong.

30. Add the PSE to the RV through the funnel slowly and then remove the funnel and screw cap back onto the RV.

31. Shake the hell out of the bottle for about 10 seconds.

32. Continue shaking the fuck out of the bottle as much as possible while continuing to regulate pressure with the blow-dryer and burping for the next 20-30 minutes.

33. The PSE must be based before the reaction can take place between the PSE and the Li, so it will be a bit (maybe 10-15 min. before you see the fuel start really going dark like chocolate milk)

• It is REALLY important to keep the pressure in the RV high, and the temp of the fuel as warm as you can during this time as it aides the reaction taking place between the PSE and the Li.

• You will start seeing the fuel go dark after shaking the fuck out of the RV, and then go back to clear after the bottle settles.

• This color change will likely happen many times.

• Sometimes the fuel doesn’t really go nearly as dark as other times… it’s ok… just keep going…

34. Once you get to the point where you are able to shake the fuck out of the bottle, then set it down… and the fuel settles and goes back to clear in about 30-45 seconds, your cook is complete.

• You will still have some Li floating on top of the fuel, but it should be a very small amount compared to the original amount, and the remaining pieces will be thin and significantly reacted into bronze.

• If you still have a significant amount of Li, don’t worry about it… Under-reacted product is still pretty decent, and you’ll get better next time.

35. Slowly loosen the RV cap and vent all of the pressure.

36. Prepare the funnel with the 2 cotton balls stuffed tightly into the stem, about 7 coffee filters in the funnel, and about a 1/2 inch layer of the dry Epsom in one of the middle coffee filters.

37. Use the prepared funnel to carefully filter the fuel by pouring it from the RV into the Mason Jar.

• Don’t fill the funnel more than about 1/2 way full at any time to prevent Particulates from getting over, around, or through the filters.

• As you are draining the fuel from the RV into the funnel, some of the Li and the reactants will also be poured into the funnel… This is fine.

• As the last of the fuel is in the funnel, agitate the pile of reactants and Li with a small wooden or plastic spoon or something similar that is clean and made of either wood or plastic to get trapped meth to move on with the fuel through the filters.

• Add a little more clean fuel to the filters in the funnel, agitate mixture again, and allow fuel to collect remaining meth to the mason jar.

• Once the filters have no more fuel, remove them from the funnel, squeeze them over the funnel to get as much of the meth/fuel as possible, dump the inner contents that they contain into a plastic Ziploc baggie, and discard the filters.

• Remove the cotton balls from the funnel, squeeze the fuel from them into the mason jar, and discard them.



38. Dump the contents of the reaction vessel into the same baggie with the rest of the reactants from the funnel, add a little clean fuel to this baggie, seal the baggie, and shake it around for 5 or 10 minutes to get as much of the trapped meth out of the reactants as possible.

39. Repeat the filtering process as before filtering the new fuel from the baggie into the original fuel in the Mason Jar, but this time, once the fuel filters through, after squeezing the filters and the cotton balls to get the excess fuel, just throw the filters and cotton balls into the baggie with the rest of the reactants, seal it, and set it aside for disposal.





Water Pull

• If you want to do gas Titration, please do it. Water pull is what I like.

•If you want to gas I will add it to the end of this write up.



40. Add an equal amount of cold water to the fuel in the Mason jar, put the cap on securely, and shake the fuck out of it for about 3-5 minutes to wash the fuel and remove certain impurities.

• Do not do this water cleaning if you are going to bang your dope as the sulfur impurities that you are washing away are the very things that provide that great fucking initial rush that takes your head outta this world when you get ahold of some good Banger’s Dope.



41. Dump the Fuel/water mix into a plastic baggie, seal it, and then hang it from the wall by the corner of the bag with a tack.

42. Allow the layers to separate (Fuel will be on the top, and the dirty waste water on the bottom), poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie with the sewing needle and allow the waste water to drain into any container for disposal.

43. When the water is just about gone, switch the waste container for the Mason Jar and collect the fuel.

44. Repeat this washing process 1 more time.



45. After the 2nd water wash, pour the fuel from the Mason Jar into a plastic Ziploc baggie and add 1/4 cup of water.

46. Use an eye dropper to add 1-2 drops of HCl acid to the fuel/water mix, shake it around for a minute.

47. Let the mixture settle and separate and obtain a sample of the water layer to test the PH

• Use a long eye dropper or a needleless syringe to access the water beneath the fuel layer



48. Repeat this process until the PH of the water layer is between 6.8 and 7.2

• Use some kind of PH testing (Meter, strips, drops, whatever)

• When you start getting around 9 PH, just add one drop of HCL at a time, and retest PH after each drop

(It’s very easy to suddenly drop below target 7 PH and have dope that doesn’t smoke well)

(I want you all to do this part well so you can join me in the quest for waterpulling)



49. Let layers settle and separate, use a needle to poke a hole through the bottom corner of the baggie, and drain the meth/water solution onto your evaporation plate.

(Pyrex dish if you like)

50. Pinch the hole in the corner of the baggie when the water is almost completely drained and then drain the fuel back into the Mason Jar.

• Do not let any of the fuel pass through the drain hole onto the evaporation plate.



51. Repeat the water wash of the fuel, the addition of the 1/4 cup of water, the PH neutralizing (This time it will only probably need 2-3 drops of HCL total), and the collection of the water/meth once again to the same evaporation plate.

52. Use a blow-dryer and optionally a hot plate or non-gas stove to evaporate the water on the plate leaving a meth crystal layer on the plate.

53. Use a razor to scrape all of the meth into a pile.

54. You can abuse as you wish at this point (But this is dirty dope, and I advise you clean it up)

• The upcoming Acetone Wash will ensure that it burns cleanly on your foil or pizzle.

• You can continue onto the recrystallization from there if you like,

(not necessary, but I would recommend it)





Acetone Wash



55. Allow meth to completely dry.

56. Crush meth crystals into a fine powder, and then put the powder into a shot glass

57. Use an eye dropper to siphon some acetone from the jar in the freezer and add to the meth in the shot glass until the powder is well covered, swirl mixture for about 30 – 60 seconds, and then dump mixture onto a new clean evaporation plate…



58. Hold the evaporation plate at a slight angle to allow the excess acetone to drain and collect at the bottom of the plate with the dissolved impurities

a. Save these nasty dissolved impurities to use as a cut on the shit you sell, or to smoke later when you’re in a bind as it will still contain some meth



59. Scrape the remaining meth crystals out of the shot glass onto the plate with the rest of the meth using a knife, or razor, or whatever, and then clean the shot glass





ReCrystalization



60. Scrape together the clean meth crystals that did not dissolve into a pile, allow them to completely dry, and crush them into a fine powder, and add once again to the clean shot glass



61. Use the CLEAN eyedropper once again to transfer the non-salt portion of the Isopropanol Alcohol from the jar in the freezer to a small saucepan and heat on stove until it starts boiling



62. Use eyedropper to slowly add hot Isopropanol Alcohol to the meth in the shot glass

a. Just enough so that the meth will completely dissolve.

b. Stir...MA will dissolve...anything that doesn't is more impurity

c. Siphon ISO/MA into 2nd shot glass carefully leaving solid impurities in first shot glass



63. Heat ISO/MA till you just see first signs of film start to develop on surface.



64. Remove from heat...add a drop or 2 more of ISO, add add a couple drops of Acetone for good measure, and allow to evaporate

a. Freezer takes about 6 hours, produces smallest crystals

b. Fridge = longer & bigger crystals

c. Room temp = longest & biggest shards



65. Carefully remove fragile crystals when they are no longer growing



66. Give crystals, once completely dry, one last quick rinse with dry cold Acetone to remove surface impurities, and let completely dry one last time…



• You now have beautiful crystal clear shards that will get you “NO” higher than the salt you started with, but they are pretty. Smoke them crystals, watch it run (clean as water with little to no trail), watch it crack back, it’s like Magic.



…..That’s all folks…..

Next story: ensos one pot fire extinguisher METHod.

Followed by: RP-I reduction how he did it the proper way.



Edit : just some formatting