Jetro, which has operated in Hunts Point since 1985, moved to a new 200,000-square-foot building in 2012 that more than doubled its size. Bodega owners troll for bargains in enormous aisles — some as long as two football fields — packed to the ceiling with Goya black beans and Little Debbie honey buns as well as specialty items like halal chicken, cured pork tails and frozen whole goats.

Felix Rodriguez, 62, the owner of La Gondola Deli in the Bronx, said he initially got so turned around in the warehouse that he left by an exit on a different side than he had entered on, and was convinced his car had been stolen. (Store workers had to help him find it). He spent several days learning where to find everything, including the plantains, pineapples, bananas and strawberries that his customers request.

“You have to satisfy the customer,” he said. “If they come back the next week and you don’t have what they want, they’re not coming back.”

Jetro does not advertise to the general public, and sells only to members, though membership in this case is more of a technicality: It is offered free to anyone with a business license. The doors open seven days a week, starting at 2 a.m. on weekdays for those who want to avoid checkout lines, or simply do not have anyone to mind the bodega while they shop.