Fifteen miles east of the city, at a summer camp near the town of Black Mountain, dancers and music lovers will converge for the Black Mountain Fall Festival from Oct. 9 to 11 and 16 to 18. Twenty musical groups perform each weekend, headlined by the David Grisman Quintet. The mix includes cajun music, blues and a percussion ensemble that plays instruments made from trash. Workshops on swing and contra dancing, drumming and musical instruments are held during the day. While some people are listening to the stage performances, other enthusiasts are in the old dining hall, where they dance until dawn. Tickets for each weekend are $55 in advance, $65 at the gate; order from Post Office Box 216, Black Mountain, N.C. 28711; (704) 669-4546. Sights

For a visual introduction to the city, drive west through the clutter and chaos of Tunnel Road. You'll pass through Beaucatcher Tunnel, then emerge to a stately view of the downtown skyline. Thanks to a recent rejuvenation, downtown is spirited and hospitable. There are narrow, angled streets and spacious open squares filled with cafes, galleries and boutiques. At Pack Square, the heart of downtown, the recently opened Pack Place Education, Arts and Science Center, (704) 252-3866, has provided a new home for several of the city's small museums.

Architecture enthusiasts will want to seek out the pink-roofed Art Deco City Building at 70 Court Plaza, and the Gothic Revival Jackson Building, a pencil-thin skyscraper at 22 South Pack Square. For a more comprehensive look, a two-hour, guided walking tour begins at the Downtown Welcome Center, 14 Battery Park Avenue, (704) 255-1093, and costs $7.50.

Biltmore Estate should certainly be visited, even considering the $21.95 admission charge. Built in the 1890's and designed by Richard Morris Hunt after 16th-century French chateaus in the Loire Valley, the splendid stone mansion is filled with original furnishings and art objects collected by George Vanderbilt in Europe. The 8,000-acre grounds, designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, include lavish formal gardens and a conservatory. Lunch at one of the two restaurants on the estate and a winery tour can extend the visit to nearly a full day. The house, 9 A.M. to 6 P.M. (tickets must be purchased by 5); grounds close at 8 P.M. (800) 543-2961.

The rough boulders of the Grove Park Inn in Asheville stand in sharp contrast to Biltmore's gargoyled facade. The rustic hotel was built in 1912 of stone carved from the mountain on which it sits, and the original structure remains largely intact despite the addition of two new wings. The terrace has dozens of rockers and a sweeping view of distant mountains; it is especially pleasant at sunset. On chilly days, comfort can be found by two huge stone fireplaces in the lobby. Visitors who are not staying at the hotel can sit on the porch and in the lobby. Many of Grove Park's original fixtures and furnishings were made by the Roycrofters, a well-known name in the American Arts and Crafts Movement; in addition, an impressive collection of arts and crafts furnishings now decorates the public areas of the new wings. At 290 Macon Avenue; (800) 438-5800.

At the Folk Art Center on the Blue Ridge Parkway, 15 minutes from town, one can finger a hand-carved bowl or chat with a broom maker as he works. The shop sells works by members of the Southern Highlands Handicraft Guild, and an exhibition gallery is on the second floor. Shows for the fall include a retrospective of sculptural glass works by William Bernstein, which runs to Sept. 30. At Parkway Milepost 382, open 9 A.M. to 5 P.M.; (704) 298-7928; free. Where to Stay

Reservations can be hard to find during the height of the leaf season, mid-October.

All glass and steel, the Radisson Hotel Asheville at One Thomas Wolfe Plaza, (800) 438-3960, is a jarring sight next door to the Thomas Wolfe Memorial, built in 1883. Even so, the 281-room hotel is conveniently situated and offers views from its upper-floor rooms and restaurant. One complaint: the carpets were annoyingly stained during a recent stay. A double room is $79 ($52 for people attending the Wolfe Festival).