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Make your own net-tent! With your home sewing machine, you can make your own lightweight net-tent and camp with the satisfaction of having built your night's dwelling! When you make your own gear, not only do you save money, you also develop a familiarity and personal connection with your gear. This kit contains the materials needed to construct a net-tent and stuff sack. Please note that the net-tent produced from this kit is different from the bug shelters that we sell. Specs Weight: Roughly 10.5 oz (298 g) Packed size: 8" x 5" x 3" (20 cm x 13 cm x 8 cm) Height: 38" (97 cm) at the head

22" (56 cm at the foot) Width: 42" (107 cm) at the head

27" (69 cm) at the foot Length: 84" (213 cm) Floor area: 20 ft2 (1.9 m2) Kit Contents: Floor fabric 3.5 yd length No-see-um netting 4 yd length 70D nylon (or similar) 2" x 8" #3 coil zipper 66" #3 Regular Double Tab Slider qty: 2 3/8" Grosgrain webbing 30" 1/2" Grosgrain webbing 10" 3/4" Grosgrain webbing 14" 1/2" Dee-ring qty: 1 Mitten Hooks qty: 2 Cordlock qty: 1 1/16" Shockcord 6" Drawcord 66" Required tools: These items are not included with the kit. Ruler; the longer the better, a square would be helpful as well. Sharp scissors Lighter Fabric marker or metallic marker Sewing machine

Before beginning, you'll need to download the patterns here: DOWNLOAD PDF PATTERN Note that the patterns are not made to reproduce at full size. You will need to measure and mark your fabric based on the dimensions provided.

Overview These instructions take you through the process of making a net-tent using our DIY Kit or other materials you have procured. Before beginning, you'll need to download the pattern file from the Pattern tab. Please note that the techniques and process presented here are different from those used to manufacture our production shelters. Mark and cut patterns Mark the patterns on the fabric and netting as specified in the pattern file you downloaded above. Sew floor to walls Take one of the side walls and pin the long, straight edge to one of the long edges of the floor. Join using a top stitched french seam or flat felled seam. Double check to make sure you have the pieces oriented correctly! (Don't mix up the head and foot ends.)

or flat felled seam. Double check to make sure you have the pieces oriented correctly! (Don't mix up the head and foot ends.) As you sew the third and final stitch of the seam, include a 2" length of 1/2" grosgrain at the midpoint of the seam. The grosgrain should be folded in half and the cut end tucked under the flap of the seam that is being sewn. Reverse the stitch over the tie-out and then continue - you'll have stitched over the tie-out a total of three times (pictures coming).

Repeat the process for the opposite side wall.

Use the same method to attach the head wall (you can omit the tie-out at the headwall). Side pocket Stitch along each shorter side, about 1/4" off the edge.

Turn right side out and set one of the pockets aside for later (will be installed after ridgeline is sewn).

At the head end of the shelter, mark a point on the seam between the sidewall and floor, about 6" from the edge. Do this on the wrong side (I prefer to have the side of the seam that is nylon be the right side and the side with the netting be the wrong side - really it doesn't matter). You can install the pocket on either the left or right sidewall; it's your preference.

Position the pocket with the opening facing down and with the raw edge aligned with the bottom of the marked seam. The pocket should fall on the netting part of the sidewall. Use the marked point as a reference for the location of the front of the pocket.

Along the length of the pocket, run a stitch over the upper stitch of the seam below.

Fold the pocket over the stitch just sewn and run another stitch, this time over the lower stitch of the seam below. Vertical seams at head, corner tie-outs and door-tie With the right sides together, pin an edge of the front wall to the matching side wall edge.

Cut four 2" x 2" tie-out reinforcements from the 70D nylon (or similar material). Set three aside.

Fold the reinforcement so the edges are offset by about 1/4". Pin the reinforcement in place at what will be the bottom corner of the shelter. The reinforcement should sandwich the silnylon with the longer side of the reinforcement on the sidewall of the shelter and the short side on the headwall.

Sew the first [basting] stitch between the front wall and the side walls, (including the reinforcement).

Repeat on the opposite side.

Choose which direction you want the door to open. When facing the shelter, YAMA installs doors to open from left to right, with the right seam being the hinge. On this 'hinge seam', you will want to install a door-tie.

Sew the second stitch for each seam.

-On the 'hinge seam' side, include a 1.5" length of 1/2" grosgrain that has been folded in half: insert the cut ends at the transition between nylon and netting.

-On the 'hinge seam' side, include a 1.5" length of 1/2" grosgrain that has been folded in half: insert the cut ends at the transition between nylon and netting. Sew the third and final stitch for each seam.

-Before sewing, cut a 2" piece of grosgrain. Fold it in half and place a dee-ring in the fold. Run a stitch as close to the dee-ring as you can (a zipper foot may help).

-On the hinge seam side, include the grosgrain with dee-ring by tucking it under the flap at the transition from nylon to netting.

-On both sides, fold the flap towards the rear of the shelter. For the bottom corners, fold a 5" length of 3/8" grosgrain in half and insert the cut ends under the flap you're folding over. Place it so it's within the reinforced area and close to the bottom end of the seam. Keep the reinforcement patch properly positioned as you sew over it.

-Before sewing, cut a 2" piece of grosgrain. Fold it in half and place a dee-ring in the fold. Run a stitch as close to the dee-ring as you can (a zipper foot may help). -On the hinge seam side, include the grosgrain with dee-ring by tucking it under the flap at the transition from nylon to netting. -On both sides, fold the flap towards the rear of the shelter. For the bottom corners, fold a 5" length of 3/8" grosgrain in half and insert the cut ends under the flap you're folding over. Place it so it's within the reinforced area and close to the bottom end of the seam. Keep the reinforcement patch properly positioned as you sew over it. After completing the seam, go back to the tie-outs, fold them over across the seams, and stitch back and forth a few times along the center of the seams.

Take the shock cord and pass it through a mitten hook and the grosgrain added to the hinge in the second stitch. Tie the ends to form a loop (see Resources -> Tieouts for more info). Vertical seams at rear, corner tie-outs, and rear peak reinforcement Complete the seams at the foot wall in the same manner as at the head wall (don't forget the corner tie-outs). For the third stitch, fold the seam toward the front of the shelter and include peak reinforcements as described in the next steps.

From scrap silnylon, cut a triangle with two perpendicular sides measuring 4.5" - 5". These two sides should line up with the orientation of the fabric weave so that the hypotenuse is 45° to the weave.

Fold over the edge along the hypotenuse and pin.

As you sew the last stitch of the seam. The reinforcement should be tucked under the flap at the top of the sidewall.

Stitch along the hypotenuse of the reinforcement triangle. The top edge can be left raw. Front peak reinforcement Place a scrap of silnylon over the seams at the front peak.

From the apex (where the seams join), mark points 5" down each seam and down each cut edge.

Mark lines between these points and cut. Leave excess in the area shown.

Fold under about 1/4" on the cut edges and pin the reinforcement in place.

Stitch along the folded edges.

Trim excess to match the cut edge of the netting below. Prepare the zipper Install two zipper pulls on the zipper, one from each end of the zipper.

From scrap silnylon, cut two rectangles measuring roughly 4" x 5". Set one aside.

Fold in half lengthwise around one end of the zipper.

Stitch back and forth a few times across the width of the zipper tape, about 1/8" from the end.

Rotate the zipper 90° and stitch along the edge of the zipper tape. Sew as close to it as you can without sewing into it!

Trim excess.

Slide the loose end of the silnylon over the end of the zipper to turn it right side out.

For now, only do this at one end of the zipper. You will finish the other end at a later time. Install the zipper First, lay out the shelter so the front wall is flat. Mark a cutline by laying a straight edge parallel to the bottom edge and lined up with the top of the tub floor on both sides (seam between nylon and mesh). A second line should run about 1/4" off the left edge of the front wall on the side towards the center of the front wall. Mark an arc with radius of about 6" between the two lines. Cut along the marked line, stopping at the peak reinforcement on one end and the seam at the other end.

Starting at the top, pin the zipper in place along the zipper's outside edge. The right side of the zipper should face the right side of the fabric and the zipper teeth should fall roughly 3/4" below the reinforcement. As you pin the zipper, keep the fabric taut, but try not to stretch it in the process.

When you get to the other end of the zipper, trim it about 3/4" in from the seam. Unpin the last several inches of the zipper and finish the end in the same manner as the top end. Pin back in place.

Sew a stitch about 1/8" off the zipper teeth (spacing and direction may vary depending on your sewing machine's zipper foot).

Pin the inner edge to the zipper. This is one of the trickiest parts of the construction.

-Start by pinning the top end in place. Check for alignment and adjust as necessary until correct.

-Pin the zipper at the top of the radius so that the seam on the front wall is aligned on each side of the zipper.

-Pull the zipper tight between the places you just pinned. Pin halfway. Continue pinning the rest of this section by continuing to pull tight and pinning halfway.

-Pin the bottom end in place, checking alignment as you did at the top.

-Pin the remainder of the zipper by working out from the bottom end and pulling the fabric tight as you go.

-As you work around the radius, you will have to stretch the fabric. You probably won't have enough the first time you try. Be patient and keep at it. (It's ok to stretch the top (mesh) fabric a little to help, but the seam won't be aligned across the zipper.)

-Sew along the zipper, again about 1/8" off the teeth. To avoid wrinkles in the mesh, stretch it from side-to-side as needed while you sew (don’t worry if you end up with a few wrinkles, it’s mainly a cosmetic issue). Pulling the fabric too much can result in skipped stitches and improper thread tension so check your stitches frequently as you go.

-With the shelter right side out, sew a stitch about 1/4" to 3/8" off the zipper teeth on both sides (may vary with your zipper foot).

-Sew around the finished ends of the zipper to complete the installation. Ridgeline Sew a top stitched french seam between the tops of the sidewalls to create the ridgeline.

If desired, add a pocket to the ridgeline as you did to the sidewall. Place it about 30" from the front peak. Peak tie-outs These instructions are for installing a grossgrain loop. If you want to install a grommet as shown in the pictures, I recommend using a size 0 spur grommet installed into a seperate piece of grossgrain. This can then be installed at the same time as the simple grossgrain loop below, but some sewing machines will have difficulty sewing through the thickness. Fold a 2" length of 3/4" grossgrain in half.

Turn the tip of the shelter's peak inside out, just enough so that you can insert the cut ends of the grossgrain.

Sew back and forth a few times to enclose the cut ends of the grossgrain in the peak. Note: The material may be too thick for some home sewing machines to handle well. If this is the case, use a longer piece of grosgrain and attach the tie-out in the same way as the rear peak tie-out outlined below.

For the rear peak, use a 5" length of 3/4" grossgrain.

Fold so one end extends 1/4" past the other end. Fold the longer end over the shorter end to enclose the raw edge.

Place the grosgrain on the ridgeline at the rear peak and attach it by sewing at least two lines of stitching or a box pattern. It can be hard to work at this location so take your time and be careful not to sew through anything you're not supposed to (it's easy for other parts of the shelter to slip underneath the area you're sewing. Interior hang loop Sew a 6" length of the 3/8" grosgrain into the underside of the front peak reinforcement.

Add a mitten hook if desired. Stuff sack From some of your scrap silnylon, cut a rectangle measuring 11.5" high by 15" wide.

Cut two reinforcement patches from the 70D nylon measuring 1" x 2".

Place one at each top corner with the long edge oriented vertically.

Tack the reinforcement with a stitch about 1/4" off the vertical edge.

Fold the stuff sack in half, across the width, so the right sides are together (reinforcements facing out).

Begin a stitch about 1-1/2" from the top edge. Stitch along the vertical edge. When you near the bottom, turn the fabric and stitch along the bottom edge. When you hit the fold, turn around and overlap your stitching, finishing where you started.

At the top, fold one of the reinforcements over along the stitch used to tack it down. Then fold the top edge over about 1".

Begin stitching about 3/4" off the top fold to create the channel for the drawcord.

When you return to the starting point, continue about 1/2" then reverse about an inch before cutting the thread.

Using a paper clip or other improvised device, thread the drawcord through the sleeve.

Trim the drawcord and install a cordlock.

Tie off the ends of the drawcord. Finished! Sleep bug and critter free!

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