Lindsay Cohn

Special for USA TODAY

You might not expect modern, multicultural cuisine in one of the oldest cities in the country. Today, Hartford, Conn.’s dining scene — much like the area itself — remains faithful to its New England roots, while embracing a more diverse, innovative approach to food. Connecticut’s capital is also responding to the locavore movement with seasonal menus and an emphasis on farm-to-table ingredients.

“One thing that makes our culinary scene unique is our proximity to Connecticut farms, Atlantic Ocean and Long Island Sound," says Steven Abrams, partner in Max Restaurant Group. "From the rolling hills of Litchfield to the icy waters of Stonington, our farmers, fisherman and food artisans bring us amazing ingredients.”

Perhaps the most committed to farm-to-table fare is executive chef and owner of Millwright’s, Tyler Anderson. “The majority of our ingredients are raised, harvested or foraged from local purveyors in New England," he says. "It stems from a firm belief in knowing where the food we are serving comes from.”

Local chefs and restaurateurs have also found a way to marry centuries of tradition with a contemporary culinary sensibility. Hartford boasts some of the nation’s most historic sites, many of which now house the area’s preeminent restaurants. Chef Chris Prosperi’s award-winning new American restaurant Metro Bis moved to the Simsbury 1820 House in 2013; ON20 took over the prestigious space on the 20th floor of the Hartford Steam Boiler Building in 2008; and Black Eyed Sally’s has operated out of a 19th-century brick building since it opened in 1995.

Nicknamed the Insurance Capital of the World and “CT’s rising star,” Hartford is, of present, a rather international city. In fact, if you walk along Franklin Avenue and the surrounding streets, you’ll find cuisines ranging from Italian to Spanish to Peruvian. But it wasn’t always this way. The shift towards culinary and cultural inclusiveness only came at the second half of the 20th century. "In 1938, you wouldn't put an Italian name on a restaurant sign because everyone would think you were associated with the Mafia," says Vinnie Carbone, third-generation owner of Hartford landmark Carbone’s Ristorante (formerly Southern Plantation until 1961).

Browse the gallery above for the Hartford metro’s trademark tastes.

Plus, see more from the Only in series below.

Made in South Carolina: Flavors only found in Greenville

Made in North Carolina: Flavors only found in Charlotte

Made in Motor City: Flavors only found in Detroit