“Denim culture also serves as a quintessential motif of the youth”

Nobody does versatility like denim. It’s the Schrödinger Staple of fashion, existing in paradoxes that continue to immortalise the iconic garment today. Denim is as down-to-earth as it is designer, described in a 1989 edition of American Fabrics as ‘one of the world’s oldest fabrics, yet it remains eternally young’.

Current fashion trends affirm the canonical presence of denim. Jeanswear in 2019 is as alive today as it was in 1873 when Levi Strauss and Co. first designed the trousers for gold miners. Popularised in the 1930s through the rise of ‘American Dream’ idealisms from Hollywood films and other distinctly ‘U.S.A’ paraphernalia, jeans soon took off in Women’s Fashion. Following an advertising spread for Levi’s Famous Cowboy Overalls for women in the May 15, 1935 issue of Vogue, denim rose out of the mines and into the spotlight.

Denim culture also serves as a quintessential motif of the youth – in the 1950s, jeans were synonymous with rebellion and Brando’s ‘bad boy’ style. Such sentiments paved the way for denim as a go-to in the hippie fashion of the 60s.

The history of denimwear is present even in its contemporary context. The rise of rugged, workwear looks in street fashion has brought trends all the way back to LS&CO’s 1873 origins. Coachella’s widely-publicised celebrity styles have its roots in Woodstock. The return of retro aesthetics brought back straight-leg ‘Mom’ jeans and the classic jean skirt. Undeniably, the presence of denim wear is one that remains timelessly relevant.

Textile longevity, however, is another story. Though the history of denim is a long and old one, the jeans we own are probably not. An ABC report in March last year revealed that ‘1.7 million Australians are buying at least one pair of jeans in any four-week period.’. Due to the commercialisation and mass-manufacturing of the garment industry, a fashion that once was ‘only sold West of the Mississippi’ is now too accessible for us to handle. Australians alone throw out more than 500 000 tonnes of textile waste annually. We’re all guilty consumers of fast fashion because it’s easy to prioritise cost over quality. Seasonal sales are hard to resist. But what’s the point of a cheap fix if it ends up in the landfill?

The production of blue jeans comes with its own environmental consequences. Cotton harvesting requires up to 25L of water per kilogram. Mass-manufacturing of fast fashion is one of the largest contributors to the planet’s high pollution levels. In 2016, RiverBlue – a film detailing the effects of water poisoning from textile dyes – highlighted the damages of denim’s trademark indigo dye. Clara Press, a fashion journalist and author of Wardrobe Crisis, explained the crisis through a jarring observance: ‘In some cases, farmers can actually predict the colour of the season by looking at the colour that the rivers are running.’

While big brands won’t always be transparent about the truth of their manufacturing procedures, local labels are now taking sustainable fashion into their own hands.

Bondi-based, Method of Denim, specialises in custom-made denimwear that’s great for both the world and your wardrobe. Their limited run batches ensure that each piece is sewn with the care and quality to last a lifetime (fun fact: the oldest pair of Levi’s jeans is 136 years old). No M.o.D product is the same, and the crew works closely with its customers to create the perfect fit. They recognise denim as the expressive platform and history it is. Their website proudly states a sustainable stand: ‘Denim isn’t made in a day… We’re moving away from fast fashion, ensuring sustainable methods of production to give you an even better product. It’s a win/win, really!’

For all things denim, Melbourne’s Ziggy Denim catalogue everything from skirts, shorts, jeans and jackets. With over 30 years of experience in the Australian denim industry, the label knows exactly how to create a staple fit. The brand also frequently collaborates and promotes local creatives, showcasing upcoming talent periodically on their blog. Past live creatives include Wafia, Bella Griffiths, Client Liaison and Slum Sociable. Founded in 2010, Ziggy Denim’s online shop is accessible 24/7 – if you need a good pair of anything denim ASAP, Ziggy has your back covered.

Maybe sustainability isn’t mainstream yet. But as denim moves forward in 2019, and as more designers are creating environmentally conscious fashion, there’s hope that we can better the world – one pair of long-lasting jeans at a time.

Featured image by Bella Griffiths for Ziggy Denim.