From bars in empty buildings to the world famous Sziget festival, Jennifer Walker gives a local’s lowdown on the Hungarian capital’s cultural gems

Budapest culture in five words

Hedonism among the reinvented ruins.

Sound of the city

Budapest’s rattling yellow trams are the main transport for the city. Anywhere you go in the centre, the familiar whining and clattering from the tram echoes throughout the streets, becoming part of a hum that is distinctly Budapest.

Everyone’s tuning into ...

Tilos Rádió (“tilos” means forbidden in Hungarian) is a non-profit, independent, radio station. Back in the 1990s, it began life as an underground pirate radio station and has since evolved into a socially aware forum that caters to all views and musical tastes, and has become the country’s most popular station.

What’s the big talking point?

Protests and complaints against President Viktor Orbánthe’s current government, and new legislation.

The focus of outrage changes on a weekly basis, but ranges from the proposed internet tax, which was scrapped after thousands hit the streets to protest in the autumn, or the new Sunday trading ban. There is also a growing concern that Hungary is looking to slide east towards Russia and away from the EU, especially after Putin’s recent visit to the capital.

What Budapest does better than anyone else

Budapest’s ruin bars are unique to the city. These have become the city’s social hubs, where dilapidated buildings have been reinvented into quirky watering holes where furniture picked off the street is mixed up with modern pieces from local artists.

The look on the street

A Stylewalker event in Budapest. Photograph: Facebook

While most people associate Hungarian fashion with the cliched Eastern European tracksuit combo look – or embroidered folk costumes – fashion in the Hungarian capital is actually rather diverse.

Budapest’s street fashion is all about combining vintage wear with high-street brands. You’ll find retro throwback thrift shop and boutique pieces coupled with staples from brands like H&M and Zara. Many of Budapest’s youth are also into streetwear and skatewear as a throwback to the 90s. You might also find one or two pieces from Hungarian designers, like Nanushka, mixed into the outfit.

Who’s top of the playlist?

Facebook Twitter Pinterest The Carboonfools

The Carboonfools have been around since 2000, when DJ Titusz founded the band as his personal musical project. Since then, they’ve become one of Hungary’s biggest groups, frequently headlining at Budapest’s famous Sziget festival.

Best current venue

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Brody studios - Budapest’s multicultural bohemian hub. Photograph: Brody Studios

Tucked behind the heavy wooden doors of Vörösmarty Utca 38, in a quiet part of the VI District, Brody Studios is Budapest’s multicultural bohemian hub.

Here you’ll find Hollywood actors hobnobbing with local artists and culture aficionados. Brody Studios is not just a place for members to hang out and party, but it’s also a cultural venue with its own in-house artist programme. There are also various events ranging from monthly literary dinners to fashion shows and art exhibitions. While it’s a members-only arts club, Brody Studios does open its doors to non-members for special events such as Brody Underground Cinema, a film night focusing on locally made films, which include interviews with actors, filmmakers and producers.



Best cultural instagram account

This may not be the most active Instagram account in the city, but the photographic initiative @everydaybudapest is the best to follow to get an idea of the city’s life and everyday culture.

The Robert Capa Contemporary Photography Centre asked 12 esteemed Hungarian photographers to snap the city on their mobile phones and upload it to the Centre’s Instagram account. While this was initially set up to run during the Photo – Street festival last year, photographers continue to upload shots to the account.

Cultural moment from history

Frequently called “Europe’s answer to Burning Man”, Sziget Festival is one of Europe’s top festivals.

Sziget began as an amateur initiative in 1993. In 1994 it not only coincided with the 25th anniversary of Woodstock, it also featured acts from the original lineup, such as Jethro Tull, The Byrds and Jefferson Starship. Usually held in August, Sziget has expanded over the years and “Eurowoodstock” remains one of the city’s top summer moments.



Street art

Facebook Twitter Pinterest A Rubik’s Cube, the famous Hungarian puzzle, located on Rumbach Sebestyén utca in VII District. Photograph: Jennifer Walker

For years, the downtown area of the VII District was in a state of decay. But recently, the influx of the popular ruin bars and quirky boutiques have turned it into a trendy area. Urban art group Neopaint Works is a collective of street artists who have turned the area into an open-air art gallery.

Favourite local artist

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Alexander Tinei, 1014. Tree. 100 x 70 cm. Oil on paper. Photograph: Ando Gallery, Tokyo

Budapest’s art scene is a diverse mix of Hungarians and international artists, with thriving grass-roots galleries and collectives like Műszi, Budapest Art Factory and Puccs.

One artist who stands out is Alexander Tinei. Originally from Moldova, he’s lived in Budapest for more than 10 years. Despite some tough early years, Tinei has since had his paintings and sketches featured at the Saatchi Gallery, been auctioned at Sotheby’s and held solo exhibitions in Budapest, Paris, New York and Vienna. His work has also been published in Vitamin P2: New Perspectives in Painting and Painting Now.

Comedy gold

Facebook Twitter Pinterest An interview with trees and shrubs on their political views. A political spoof by the Dumaszínház collective.

Dumaszínház is a collective made up of some of Hungary’s best stand-up comedians.

Beginning in 2003 with only three members: Gergely Litkai, Tamás Ardai and Zoltán Sáfár, Dumaszínház has expanded since to include over 20 comedians. It has gone on to become one of Hungary’s biggest comedy groups, mixing up live shows with television parodies mocking politicians, popular culture and life in general.

Five to follow

Jennifer Walker is an Anglo-Hungarian ex-physicist based in Budapest. She’s a staff writer at We Love Budapest and writes about the city for various publications. Follow her @jdwalkerwriter