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Anchoring the corner of Second Avenue North and 20th Street, Paramount is the latest star in the crown of the folks who have brought us El Barrio and Trattoria Centrale. Open almost two months, the bar and grill and late-night dining option has already established itself as a place to see and be seen, especially by the young professional crowd.

The name comes from the sign over the entrance, just about the only remnant of previous occupants of the space, most recently a yogurt shop.

The décor is quasi-industrial chic, exposed, distressed brick and duct work dominated by a mural-sized vintage photograph of the façade. Lighting is provided by an interesting system of work lights, their yellow control pulleys a colorful design element in themselves.

DETAILS

What: Paramount, 200 20th St. North; 205-320-2824

Prices: Appetizers, chili and salad, $4 to $9; Sandwiches, $6.50 to $10

Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 4 p.m. to 2 a.m..

Info: Full bar; not yet rated by Health Department

Bottom line: Review gets four stars out of five

A screen of hubcaps adds to the automotive repair shop feel, accented by roll-up garage doors that will open to the sidewalk when spring decides to stick around.

Despite a well-attended game room off the main area with its own beer bar and a variety of current and vintage games, Paramount is not large, and standing -room-only becomes the norm early on. We found both the staff and the clientele to be helpful in arranging seating for newcomers - just another way of meeting new friends.

The noise level is exuberant, but we were amazed that there was no problem carrying on conversation even the length of a six-top table. If one is there to watch a game, TVs can be seen from almost any point on the premises.

An extensive bar menu offers an interesting array of designer cocktails along with an impressive listing of beers, craft and conventional, regional and other regional. Some 20 are available on tap in three sizes as well as nearly double that number in cans and bottles. Selections may change due to availability. If some of the names are new to you, the servers are happy to guide you through unfamiliar territory. No one ever appeared too rushed to be of service, and it was a very busy evening.

From the “share it” section of the menu we ordered Alabama hummus ($5) and French (Canadian) fries ($9). A word of warning for those who might be peanut-intolerant and miss it on the menu, the Alabama hummus is a variation on the original incorporating boiled peanuts instead of chick peas.

Both were excellent choices. Cool and creamy, the hummus was slightly spiced with smoked paprika and maybe just a hint of garlic. Served with pita chips, this was an interesting surprise on a list of pub foods.

Also something one doesn’t often find in Central Alabama, the French (Canadian) fries was a more than reasonable version of the Canadian staple, poutine. Fair warning, this dish won’t win any beauty prizes, but what it lacks in pretty, it more than makes up for in flavor.

The concept is simple; the reality is delicious and definitely an addition to our list of comfort foods. Fill a dinner plate with fries, smother them with a braised chicken and mushroom gravy. Add some mozzarella cheese and chives. Serve warm with plenty of napkins and enjoy. We did!

Sandwiches and such on the “all mine” side of the food menu assume the role of entrée, and everything we ordered turned out to be entrée worthy.

Paramount chili ($8) was a good choice on a nippy evening. Generous chunks of tender braised beef shared space with kidney beans. Topped with corn chips for crunch and a dollop of sour cream with chopped scallions, this would be a good dish for any evening.

The fun guy ($7.50) is a vegetarian offering featuring Portobello mushrooms, tomato, arugula and mozzarella cheese on toasted pita. For those who find dairy products objectionable, the kitchen will gladly hold the cheese. Note that the staff will happily discuss adjustments and possible substitutions for most of their menu items.

Under house-ground burgers one will discover “You’re my boy, Blue” ($9.50). The name is a mouthful as is the burger. Cooked to order and served on an especially tasty yeast bun, this burger meets bacon meets blue cheese and caramalized onions and was deemed “one of the best” by the recipient.

The West Virginian ($6.50) is a quarter pound hotdog slathered with the house chili, a creamy slaw and yellow mustard. This diner enjoyed it but found it surprisingly spicy.

A warning! Paramount’s no- back barstool seats can be a bit daunting for those of us not so fleet of foot or seat!

We thoroughly enjoyed our evening at Paramount, a good antidote for nearly terminal cases of cabin fever after a couple of weeks of vengeful winter weather. The combination of good food, old friends and brand new friends kind enough to share a table made for lively, interesting conversation and a thoroughly delightful evening.