

The Lexan sheet was too thin, so the first thing I did was cut it in half across the long axis and glue both pieces together, resulting in a sheet 11” x 7” x 0.186” thick. A word on the glue: I used three types of glue in the project, Liquid Nails silicone adhesive, two part epoxy resin, and cyanoacrylate superglue. There’s a lot of prying stress put on the various pieces of the batarang while it is being filed into shape, and the Liquid Nails quits after a while. This doesn’t matter, as I had to pull it apart several times to correct mistakes. When everything was ready to be finally glued, I used cyanoacrylate which is notoriously unforgiving of mistakes. For gluing these two sheets together, the superglue is preferable.



I found an image of the batarang on the internet, and printed it out as a template at the size I wanted. Because I was going to have a hinged batarang, I only used one wing as the template for both halves, which helps with symmetry. It also helps that friendly Instructables user, InfiniTTTy, then drew up my template as a nifty .png file, which you can find at the bottom of this page. I then cut out the three pieces of the ‘rang with a coping saw. If you are going to do the cutting with a bandsaw, make sure you have good dust extraction – unlike sawdust, plexiglass dust can get hot enough to catch fire.



I call the three pieces ‘the fixed wing,’ the ‘pivoting wing,’ and ‘the back piece.’ The fixed wing and the back piece will join together to make the 'back assembly,' the half of the batarang you hold in your hand. This is a right-handed batarang, but you can easily reverse the pieces for a left-handed one. The fixed wing is just the pivoting wing with the circular axis removed, and the back piece is just the center of the batarang with a bit of overlap where the magnets will be placed.

