Not even Jamie Oliver could complain about the contents of the grocery staple that has been around since 1876, when HJ Heinz first boiled up a bucket of fruit picked from his vines in Pittsburgh. Indeed, still made of nothing more than tomatoes, vinegar, salt, spice and sugar, without anything remotely artificial in its recipe, each spoonful comes with a blast of lycopene, the age-defying antioxidant that guards against everything from cardiovascular disease to prostate cancer. This isn’t some artery-clogging dose of saturated fat, it is a dollop of superfood. No wonder the average British household buys 2.5kg of the stuff every year; in most larders, it is about the only thing in there that is remotely healthy.