All Souls’ custom stone mill, designed by the baker Fulton Forde, shears the bran off into large pieces that can be sifted easily and rubs the germ oil into the starch; in most flours, oils are removed to increase shelf life. The resulting flour has a texture that’s almost creamy. Mr. Bauer calls it the flour equivalent of a well-marbled steak.

“All Souls really exemplifies Asheville’s commitment to ingredient-driven cooking,” said John Fleer, the chef of Rhubarb and a veteran of Blackberry Farm. “What could be more on point than growing and milling your own flour? It makes for the best pizza crust anywhere.”

Fresh milling is all the rage these days. Bruno in New York, Etto in Washington and Nellcôte in Chicago all have their own mills. Mr. Bauer lets the flour dictate how his pizzas are cooked.

Image All Souls’ baker, David Bauer, is a pioneer in the movement to use local, freshly milled grains. Credit... Mike Belleme for The New York Times

Unlike with a classic Neapolitan pie, which has a pale crust puffed and blistered black in an ultrahot oven, All Souls fires its pies cooler to bring out three colors: black bubbles of char, a deep gold that signals the sugars in the dough have caramelized, and a soft white underbelly.