Japan Blue?

It’s another brand which slowly became popular over the past few years while I wasn’t paying attention. They are not a new player though, but part of the one-stop jeans machine that is the Japan Blue Group, encompassing Rampuya (dye), Collect Mills (fabric), Momotaro (premium jeans) and Japan Blue (entry level jeans).

The unusual fabric and the modern cut caught my eye, so instead of a pair of Momotaro’s, I’ve chosen to commit to this very cool Godzilla denim.

This “high tapered” fit is a fairly modern fit – moderately high rise, fair amount of room in the thighs, but tapering very aggressively from the knee down. This results in a comfortable fit, good movement in the top block, a slim silhouette and strong stacking near the hem.

This is a sanforised 18 oz RHT denim with exaggerated irregularity & slubbing nicknamed “Godzilla” from Collect Mills.

Godzilla is the successor to Japan Blue’s previous top-of-line “Monster” denim. Warp is rope dyed with indigo. Weft is dyed to the core in brown/malt. This is a very tactile fabric, with a relatively rigid hand. Godzilla will fade very fast, as you can see in the two week photo a little further down the page.

I’m guessing the intention is for a quick path towards vintage-looking, dusty fading patterns. Expect some shrinkage with the first wash, but hem & seam roping effects probably would not become pronounced until the 2nd or 3rd wash.

The cotton used is apparently blended and not single origin. I have no idea what this blend includes. On examining the loose bits of cotton from the belt loops and testing the hand of the denim, I would guess medium and short staple cottons were utilised.

This is a modern Japanese style of denim fabric. The exaggerated irregularity and slub formation reminds me of some of Oni and Eternal’s older fabrics. This Godzilla denim appears much more layered though, likely due to the play between the two different colours in the denim.

Straw coloured threads in a couple of sizes are present. The monotone stitching are basic, but neat. All the necessary reinforcements are made, apart from hidden back-pocket rivets or a crotch rivet – these areas are bar-tacked instead.

Don’t expect reproduction style, thick dual tone chain-stitches with specialist repro cotton threads – you’re in the wrong price bracket – better to look at the company’s Momotaro or Rampuya brands instead.

The coin pocket is folded selvedge, not chain-stitched.

The hardware consists of basic brass buttons & punch-thru rivets with plain backings.

The patch is made of cattlehide, dyed indigo. The standard Japan Blue logo is embossed on the patch. This leather seems to wear well, showing little disturbance by washing or drying.

The pockets are made out of medium weight sashiko fabric. This adds some interest to the jeans, but it isn’t a particular rugged fabric, nor was it shirting quality.

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All in all, this is a modern pair of enthusiast Japanese jeans.

In many ways this pair of Godzilla jeans epitomises “Japanese raw selvedge denim”.

This is not an obsessive reproduction. This is not modern Americana.

But it is a good example of a pair of Japanese jeans with a nice fit and a fun fabric, which can be expected to develop a high contrast fade relatively quickly.

The fit and the denim are to my liking, and I wouldn’t hesitate in recommending the Godzilla jeans to beginner and intermediate denim hobbyists.

The is especially considering the lower price and great value compared with the traditional Big 5 offerings.

For advanced denim geeks, due to the just-good-enough construction and basic peripherals, you might like to spend a bit more money on Momotaro’s for your Collect Mills fabric fix.

Purchased from Okayama Denim.

1 month update here.