You'll never guess what this Berks County restaurant makes with Lebanon bologna "It was one of those things when we tried it for the first time, it actually worked."

Andrew Kulp | Lebanon Daily News

Lebanon prides itself on bologna, but a new Berks County restaurant has taken the region’s most famous export and given it a gourmet spin.

The restaurant is called Nitro Bar, and the dish is the Lebanon bologna “cheesesteak.”

Though not the first to try their hand at a Lebanon bologna cheesesteak, Nitro Bar has crafted perhaps the most elaborate version of the sandwich, made with caramelized onions, Cooper sharp cheese sauce, crispy onions, cherry peppers and watercress on a hoagie roll.

The cheesesteak is one of several Pennsylvania Dutch-inspired items on the menu, but has become a signature dish of sorts for Nitro Bar.

“Most people are blown away by it,” said Adam Cocuzza, owner of Nitro Bar. “It took a minute to really start moving, but then I think the more people saw it online, the more people heard about it, the more people that tried it and told their friends – it’s definitely a word-of-mouth sandwich.”

What is Nitro Bar?

Located in West Reading, about 30 miles east of Lebanon, Nitro Bar launched in August just down the street from the restaurant Say Cheese!, which Cocuzza also owns along with his family.

Cocuzza had been eyeing the property at 416 Penn Ave. for years, as it was originally home to the West Reading Motor & Hardware Company founded in 1913.

“It’s a building that needed to be saved, not in the sense that it was falling down, but it’s such an iconic building of the area,” said Cocuzza, who grew up in the area. “People remember the building as A to Z Vacuum, but they moved in in the late '60s. There’s 50 years of history prior to them ever moving in.”

The building’s first floor is currently under construction, but on track to open in early 2020 as a separate restaurant called West Reading Motor Club.

Upstairs, Cocuzza opened the trendy Nitro Bar after nearly two years of renovations, leaning on past experience developing restaurant concepts on Philadelphia’s Main Line.

“We really wanted to a make it feel like a bar, but honor the local food, then kind of tie it all in with the automotive history of the building and the automotive history of the area,” said Cocuzza.

How did Lebanon bologna get on the menu?

To elevate his Nitro Bar concept, Cocuzza employed the services of executive chef Jeremy Nolen, whose 20-year career includes launching the menu at acclaimed German beer hall Brauhaus Schmitz in Philly.

Nolen went to work building a menu that paid homage to the region’s Dutch influence, but with a modern, upscale twist. There are updated takes on red beet pickled eggs and the Dutch platter, along with more traditional bar fare like wings and a burger.

Out of those efforts to walk a line between traditional Dutch favorites and tavern meals, the Lebanon bologna cheesesteak was born.

“When we were coming up with the menu, we wanted some kind of cheesesteak, but we didn’t want a regular cheesesteak, we didn’t want like a chicken cheesesteak,” said Nolen. “I was just trying to think of other things, toss around all kinds of ideas in my head.”

A Berks County native, Nolen eventually landed on Lebanon bologna – “I guess I just like it” – though even he was skeptical before taste-testing.

“It was one of those things when we tried it for the first time, it actually worked,” said Nolen. “Wasn’t sure if it would, but then we tried it and said, ‘Wow, this is actually pretty good.’”

The Lebanon bologna cheesesteak is a hit

The reviews are in, and Nitro Bar is currently pulling a 4.7 rating or better out of 5 from customers on Google, Facebook and Yelp, with several expressing their delight over their cheesesteak.

“If someone asked me, “What does Berks County taste like,” I would say, “The Lebanon bologna sandwich at Nitro Bar,” writes John Bertolet on Google. “It’s killer!”

Even Cocuzza and Nolen, a couple of seasoned industry professionals from a serious restaurant market, didn’t know what a big deal it would become.

“I think both Jeremy and I were surprised with how the sandwich turned out,” said Cocuzza. “And then I see that equal amount of surprise on the guests’ face every time they eat it, because in theory, it sounds great, but you’re really not sure about it.

“I think most people just eat Lebanon bologna or put it between two pieces of bread. Nobody really takes it to a level of any sort.”

More about Nitro Bar

Nitro Bar isn’t merely a curiosity because of its cheesesteak. While a bit of a drive even if you happen to live as near as the Myerstown area, it’s a unique experience in a time when most every restaurant strives to double as a sports bar.

At Nitro Bar, there are no TVs. The place is a total throwback, with an old school jukebox under a neon sign, a real shuffleboard table and one arcade cabinet set up to play classics such as Donkey Kong and Ms. Pac-Man – not to mention a serious specialty cocktail program.

Of course, there’s also a large craft beer selection, bottled or draft, a handful of which are nitrogenized for a smoother, less carbonate taste.

The space is also appointed with memorabilia celebrating the region’s automotive history and other odds and ends from past generations.

If any of those things interest you, not to mention an innovative menu with a Lebanon bologna cheesesteak, Nitro Bar in West Reading – open 4:30-11 p.m. Tuesdays through Thursdays and 4:30 p.m.-midnight Fridays and Saturdays – is worth the trip.

Know of a fun food curiosity or restaurant that deserves to be featured in the greater Lebanon Valley? Email andrewkulp@ldnews.com with your suggestions.

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