Tuesday 15th, May 2018

7 am

Our tent lit up as the sun rises over Chaka Salt Lake (茶卡盐湖). We got up and followed the daily routine of making breakfast, packing the bags and tent. Looks like it’s going to be a sunny day.

9 am

With the sun on our backs we cycle out of town. The highway snakes through very desolate and dry areas, but further ahead we saw something! Our eyes lit up like a child’s first visit to the candy store (or in Pheng’s case – stationary store) when we saw a herd of camel. We had to stop to snap a couple of photos.

10 am

We arrive at the fork where we had to bid farewell to our friend, he’s going to Dulan and us to Wulan. The new road is quiet, deserted and reasonably hilly.

3 pm

We finally reach the town after strong headwind, but nonetheless glad to have arrived early enough for some sightseeing. The town square looks newly built with many people in the garden planting shrubs and bushes under the scolding sun. We found a shaded spot under some trees to make a peanut butter banana sandwich and a soy drink. Later on one of the gardeners offered us hot water which we happily accepted.

5 pm

Grey clouds slowly covered the town, making it gloomy and comfirms the forecast of light rain. We decided to get a room today to avoid getting wet and left the town square. The first hotel wasn’t cheap enough so we went to the next. As we were talking to the manager at the second hotel, a group of police officers enters interrupting us. Matt was close to saying “Have you not learn to line up?”. We secretly listened to their conversation and could tell it was because the hotel was not licensed to accommodate foreigners. Those that are licensed are very expensive.

Then they asked to see our passports, we obliged telling them it’s in English so… good luck. Seeing our bikes they asked where we are going, we told them we are heading towards Dunhuang (敦煌).

Police: From here you can't go to Dunhuang… (gibberish follows) P&M: Why? Police: Foreigners cannot go to Delingha (德令哈, a town enroute to Dunhuang) P&M: Why? Police: There's some military things there Pheng opens a dictionary app on his phone and hands to a policeman to enter what they just said. 「军事基地 military base」

So we looked at other ways to carry on, obviously back tracking was least favourable. It turns out our only option was to take the southern route which our friend had been on all along.

6 pm

The hotels here are too expensive so we tell them we will get on our way going south. They worry about us so have contacted a police check point somewhere 20-30 km down the road for us to rest overnight. Stranglely both of us don’t remember seeing one earlier in the day.

6:30 pm

A police car turns the corner to our hotel and we are told to follow them to the ‘little’ road to leave the town. With their blue-red lights flashing, we followed closely as we were paraded through town. We went through the exact same road we came in, but this time all the locals were waving and shouting greetings at us. We felt really welcomed. Most corners now had police check points.

8 pm

The day is getting darker, the road getting quieter, but luckily we get tailwind this time. We stopped for another peanut butter banana sandwich. We put our lights on as it’s completely dark now.

9 pm

We’ve past the 20 km sign post for a while now so the police check point must be nearing. A few drop of rain comes but we’re optimistic it’s only light rain. The road has been uphill most of the way but cycling in the dark made it easier as you don’t see the towering hills ahead. The check point must be near.

9:30 pm

The rain got heavier and we’ve only just past 28 km. We’re beginning to think this check point was made up. We desperately searched for lights, or any sign to where it could be…but nothing.

10 pm

We saw a light! A small light.

Why would the check point be so far from the road? Perhaps they only have a small torch?

The light pointed and waved at us, and we returned waving back. This must be the check point. Up ahead Matt found a driveway, a dirt road driveway, but given how late it was we didn’t care and carried on towards the light.

We reached some farm houses but the light was gone. This wasn’t the check point. Matt says we should go back, but Pheng wants to call it a day. We looked around for somewhere flat to tent, but luckily a man holding a torch appears from behind a wall! We asked him if it’s okay to tent here (we are both soaked and the ground is wet) and he said “yes it is okay”.

Matt opened tent bag preparing to pitch but Pheng thought it wouldn’t hurt to ask:

您有空房间吗？ Do you have a spare room?

He said he’ll go ask, and ran back. A while later he reappeared shouting “come over!” We rushed to his place and parked our bikes. Unloaded our bags and entered his home.

10:30 pm

Shivering from the rain, we entered a warm home with the fireplace roaring. We were extremely glad to have found shelter. We chatted and told them today’s event and how we mistook his light as the police check point.

We were offered hot milky tea, homemade bread and yoghurt. These people are of the Mongol ethnic group (蒙古族).

11 pm

The spare bed was comfortable and dry. We brushed our teeth and slept soundly.

… Next morning

We woke up very happy…