It also means that, when Avery was evaluating distributors to cut off, Brennan’s was compared to customers that served entire metro areas or states. Even with five stores across southern Wisconsin, including two in Madison, it was a mere drop in the barrel. So the decision to keep the beer flowing to Brennan’s was an easy one, McGregor said, dismissing the suggestion that Brennan’s served as a kind of foot in the Wisconsin door.

“We stayed in Brennan’s simply because of personal relationships,” he said. “They had been a longtime supporter of us, had come out to the brewery multiple times.”

Avery now believes the days of market contraction are over, thanks to improvements at its existing brewery and a $27 million new facility that will double its capacity to about 100,000 barrels by the time all the equipment is on line by early next year.

The beer that Avery is bringing back to Wisconsin — it hit shelves early this month — is solid all around and spectacular in places.

It sells five year-round beers in six-packs of bottles and/or cans: the flagships IPA and White Rascal Belgian wit, along with Ellie’s Brown Ale, Out of Bounds Stout and Joe’s Premium American Pilsner.