Bell Buoy has been a seafood stand of choice for well over a half-century. As the big, blue neon sign atop the low-slung building emphasizes by word and picture, the main reason to stop in is to pick up your fill of sweet, meaty, local Dungeness crab. East Coast and even Alaskan species pale in comparison. Pre-plucked Dungeness meat is always available and, for those feeling flush, one can purchase just the luscious legs (price on a May visit: $45 per pound). But for a traditional Oregon family feed, the only authentic option is to buy your crabs whole, which is to say boiled, cleaned (if you prefer), cracked, wrapped and packed in ice for transport. Cover the table with newspaper and commence to frenzied feasting. Bell Buoy will also sell you magnificently fresh Oregon razor clams in season and beautiful chunks and strips of smoked fish which they prepare right on site. MICHAEL C. ZUSMAN.