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Man I enjoy exploring Spain! After visits to Galicia and Andalusia, I figured it was time to venture to the north, starting with the heartbreaker that is San Sebastian. Known as Donostia in the Basque language, San Sebastian is one of the largest cities in the Basque Country, a corner of the world that continues to fascinate me. Before my visit, all I knew was that tucking into the local food was the most vital of the many things to do in San Sebastian.

You see, San Sebastian is famous for its food, particularly its pintxos. These small snacks are effectively Basque tapas, although they’re typically served on a stick. The city is also home to an impressive number of world-class restaurants, several with two or three Michelin stars. So yes, sampling food in San Sebastian was important.

But what is there to do in San Sebastian between meals? After all, they do eat dinner here much later than you may be used to, leaving more time for sightseeing. Well luckily, the city is also quite an alluring and entertaining place to explore. Here are 7 things to do in San Sebastian when you’re not busy eating.

1. Enjoy the La Concha Beachfront

With any visit to San Sebastian, you’re quickly going to nice one of its greatest features; it’s beautiful, long curving beach. La Concha Beach starts right around the border between San Sebastian’s historic centre and its modern downtown, before running right around the local bay. With low tide, the beach gets quite deep and even in the earliest moments of spring, it had its fair share of people. I can only imagine what its like in summer!

The beach might be the fixture it is today, were it not for the scenic boulevard that follows its curve. Not only does the beachfront boulevard extend the beach atmosphere into the city, but you get some great bay views as well. I think the greatest touch here is the glamorous white railing and lamp posts that run by the beach boulevard, elevating the space with an air of elegance. La Concha reinforced my belief that northern Spain has some truly fantastic beaches.

2. Wander the Old Town

If I’m going somewhere in Europe then you can bet I’m going to visit its old town. In San Sebastian, the Old Town is known as Parte Vieja and consists of a grid of high buildings along narrow streets. Thing is though, it’s hard not to see Parte Vieja when visiting, since so many of pintxos bars are found there. Still, that’s typically in the dark in the evening, so it’s nice to see the Old Town by day.

Now I keep saying Old Town, but in fact nearly everything here only dates back as far as the early 19th century. Sadly, nearly all of the city was destroyed during the Napoleonic Wars. This means that Parte Vieja is a great snapshot of that period in time, with its rather reserved style found throughout.

There are a few major spots to find your way to in Parte Vieja. The first is the Basilica of Saint Mary of the Chorus with its fabulous baroque facade that demands closer inspection with its elaborate entrance. Next there’s Constitution Square deep in the Old Town. With almost uniform balconies around its sides, it feels like a beautiful, oversized courtyard. Lastly there’s the Port Harbour, which is just quite colourful and charmingly humble.

3. Climb up to Castillo de la Mota

At the eastern point of the bay and sitting directly above San Sebastian’s Old Town rests Monte Urgull. This large hill is home to the city’s other big historic landmark, the Castillo de la Mota fortress. Visiting San Sebastian, it’s an absolute must that you walk up Monte Urgull and venture into Mota Castle. Watching over the city, there have been fortifications here since the 12th century and for a time was quite formidable.

Visitors don’t need to lay siege to Mota Castle to visit, as much of its grounds are open to the public. There is the Urguleko Gaztelua Museum inside the central keep, but I think the real draw is the incredible views the castle offers. On different sections of the ramparts, you gain unparalleled views in each direction, including across the bay to Isla de Santa Clara and back over the city. Hands down my favourite spot in San Sebastian.

4. Admire the Downtown Architecture

Some cities become much less interesting once you’ve left their old town; not San Sebastian. The city’s downtown area trades in traditional restraint for resplendent Belle Epoque architecture making it a joy to stroll about. Downtown, also known as Old Amara, enjoys quite a few pedestrian streets that crisscross through it and several quite lively squares. If you visit in spring like I did, the trees along each of the pedestrian streets are brought to life with blossoming trees.

It’s in downtown that you find many of San Sebastian’s most impressive landmarks as well. There’s the San Sebastian City Hall on the fringe of the Old Town, plus the neo-Gothic San Sebastian Cathedral. Besides that, the area is full of shops, offices and restaurants, with their architecture generally their most interesting element.

5. Watch the Surfers at Zurriola Beach

Zurriola Beach is the second of San Sebastian’s noteworthy beaches, sitting across the Urumea river by the Kursaal auditorium. Bordered by a great big breakwater and away from the heart of Donostia, it’s less popular and admittedly less attractive than the main city beach.

The major difference to La Concha however is that Zurriola is much less sheltered, meaning the waves are ideal for surfers. So if you surf, you’re in luck. If you don’t but would like to, there are opportunities to learn with surf schools and tours. For me, especially in March, I was content to watch locals ride the waves from the breakwater.

6. Cross the Urumea River to Gros

Besides the beautiful beaches and bay, San Sebastian is also defined by the Urumea River that flows through it. Lined with distinguished bridges and boulevards, the river is another pleasant slice of San Sebastian.

And yet, what lies across the Urumea river from the downtown area is even more intriguing. Here you find the Gros district, which for much of its life was working class and still holds quite a commercial feel to it. What makes this part of the city worth seeking out is the monumental buildings that pop up here and there in Gros. In particular, De Biteri Plaza is a great place to start.

7. Visit Miramar Palace

With a slope leading away from the beach up towards the surrounding hills, there’s plenty of San Sebastian to explore. While the backstreets further up the hillside offer nice views and a nice glimpse into regular life, the ultimate view around here is Miramar Palace.

Built in the 19th century, it was once a summer residence of the Spanish Royal Crown. The palace sits over the Pico Del Loro point that divides Ondarreta Beach, the third of San Sebastian’s beaches, with La Concha. The point offers splendid views of the bay. It may be a fair walk from downtown, but since its beach views the whole way round and a delightful spot itself, seems worth it to me.

Tips for Visiting San Sebastian

Accommodation

Owing to its robust culture and cuisine, San Sebastian is quite a popular tourist destination. This means you should find a great selection of hotels, pensions and apartments to choose from, given it’s not peak tourist season. If you’re after an affordable, modest but comfortable place to stay, I found Pension Easo in downtown to be suitable for my needs.

Getting There

With regards to getting to San Sebastian, both the main train station and bus station are found on the eastern side of the river, close to one another. Options though will vary depending on whether you’re travelling domestically or internationally.

Getting to Bilbao for example, requires you leave from the Amara Donostia station instead with the local Euskotren. There are bus connections to France as well, with destinations like Biarritz. My best advice is to use Rome2Rio and probably visit the bus or train station the day before leaving.

Food Guides

Since the purpose this post was to show the non-foodie side to San Sebastian – Donostia, I’ve deliberately avoided mentioning food tours or places to eat. A great place to start is this guide to the best pintxos in San Sebastian.

Which would be your first pick of these things to do in San Sebastian, Spain? Have you visited Donostia – San Sebastian and enjoyed an aspect of the city beyond the food? Please share your thoughts and questions in the comments below.

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This article is now available as a mobile app. Go to GPSmyCity to download the app for GPS-assisted travel directions to the attractions featured in this article.

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