David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

Rood Food and Pie: The Triumph of Sliders and Pie in Lakewood

LAKEWOOD, Ohio -- Sliders, glorious sliders. At Rood Food and Pie, they’re the thing that puts the fun back into the fundamentals of truly great dining. Who knew that almost the entire culinary world’s worth of tastes and textures could be captured between two halves of a small yeasty bun? Well, Brian Ruthsatz, the restaurant’s owner, operator, creator, and resident aesthete did.

He also knew that fine, fun dining is defined by so much more than what’s on the table, so he conjured up an environment…actually two of them….that are as creative and celebratory as the food.

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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One is all polished dark tropical woods and rustic exposed brick. It’s illuminated by woven rattan pendant lamps that cast bands of warm light on walls hung with local art and photos of vintage RTA trolleys. The cumulative effect is of a chic, sleek Cambodian nightclub run by a nostalgic Cleveland expat.

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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The other is bright, white and a world away. The closest I can come to it is a 1950’s South Beach Miami trailer park: neon pink flamingos, pierced metal patio tables, plastic hedge, shag carpeting, and in a triumph of fantasy interior design, a custom-built “canned-ham” style trailer that doubles as the bar.

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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Back to the food, I do know this “simply sliders” situation is going to require a leap of faith but take the plunge. The payoff is 13 mostly pitch perfect options of bold and beautiful fillings, each paired with one of the six available slaws, served with house-made curry and sweet cardamom buns. They’re the perfect size and optimal squishiness for the ultimate slider experience. You make your own and it’s best to dine in a small pack so you can mix and match fillings and slaw, though the house pairings are usually pretty compatible.

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

Sesame-Crusted Wagyu Beef

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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Rood’s gateway slider, Sesame-Crusted Wagyu Beef, the one most resembling the original White Castle mini-hamburger, quickly leaves its slider progenitor behind. These sesame seed-sprinkled beauties made of premium beef have a delectable crisp crust that yields to a soft barely pink center. The salty black-bean hoisin sauce intensifies the clear meaty flavor and adds a nuance of minerality that layers beautifully when topped with the bright notes of pickled ginger and deeper spicier tones of root vegetable kimchee.

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

Sweet Korean BBQ Pulled Pork

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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Diving deeper into the menu, there’s a luxurious silky richness to the Sweet Korean BBQ Pulled Pork, smothered in a syrupy beet molasses cut with the contrasting tones of garlic, ginger and Asian pear. The accompanying Fennel and Spanish Onion Slaw melds the elements into a cross-cultural creamy and crunchy experience that elevates the sandwich into an extraordinary experience.

Vegan? No problem. There’s five mostly fine offerings. Though the Barbequed Grilled Jackfruit, mildly sweet but mostly insipid, didn’t work, the Crispy Fried Jackfruit proved once again that anything crumb-coated and freshly fried is instantly transmuted into something truly scrumptious The rich earthy tones of Awoken Wild Mushrooms, paired with a tart sour cherry slaw in a cardamom bun, was filled with myriad impeccable flavors.

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

Crispy Fried Jackfruit

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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Save room for dessert

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

Brandy Banana Cream pie

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

Salt and honey pie

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

Baklava pie

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Since it’s Rood Food and Pies, dessert is pretty important here. The Whiskey Chocolate Cream and Brandy Banana Cream pies, usually stalwarts on the menu, are mighty fine. Boozy, rich and sweet, they’re creamy and crunchy in all the right places. A crisp flaky buttery crust that yields almost effortlessly to a fork surrounds the elegantly spiced, nut-filled honey custard splendor of the Baklava Pie. You’re on your own with the others, they change seasonally, but proceed with confidence, Rood knows what it’s doing, pie-wise.

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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Perseverance seems to be the key here. Three long years in the making, the pay-off is a delight-filled celebratory theme park of boldly creative dining with a joyful dedicated esprit de corps that’s contagious. Three cheers…four stars!

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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TASTE BITES: Rood Food and Pie Where: 17001 Madison Ave. Cleveland, OH 44107

Call: 216-712-4506 Online: www.rfpie.com

Hours: 4:30 p.m.-10:00 p.m. Monday-Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Closed Sunday.

Prices: Appetizer: $4.00; Sliders $10.00-$23.00; Pies $5.25-$6.25.

Reservations: Accepted

Credit Cards: All major cards accepted

Kid-friendliness: No children's menu. Lunch could be fun for adventurous tykes, but if it's dinner or later, get a sitter.

Bar Service: Good craft cocktails; interesting, Euro-centric reasonably priced wines; and some fine small batch beers.

Accessibility: Easy access throughout.

Noise Level: On some weekends, it can get loud, but usually there's just a nice hospitable hum.

Grade: ****

(updated August 2019)

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

Owner Brian Ruthsatz and chef Mark Wilson.

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

The trailer, aka bar, offers a variety of mixed drinks and draft beers.

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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David Petkiewicz, cleveland.com

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