Just before noon on a recent morning, Jeff Osaka walked the floor of his soon-to-open restaurant in Denver’s RiNo neighborhood, giving visitors a nickel tour of Osaka Ramen, the noodle shop he plans to open later this month in a former carpet store.

Osaka has been a star on the Denver dining scene since mid-2008, when he arrived from California to open Twelve, a sophisticated fine-dining establishment in LoDo that he closed in August.

This current outing is much closer to his heart and roots.

“Whether it’s zero degrees outside or 100 degrees, a noodle bowl is all about comfort,” Osaka said. “It’s like your mom’s apple pie or a perfect hamburger. There’s a really personal connection to it.”

He is apparently not the only one feeling that tug.

A fresh wave of noodle shops is popping up in Denver, joining the ranks of pho and udon joints that have long lured diners to Federal Boulevard.

Some of the new restaurants feature noodles as part of a broader menu, such as chef Miki Hashimoto’s sushi-driven room at Tokio (2907 Huron St.) and the pan-Asian cuisine at Cho77, a new place at 42 S. Broadway operated by chefs Lon Symensma and Ryan Gorby.

But all are characterized by big bowls of hot, brothy noodles that practically shout to be slurped. These are not restaurants for the faint of ear.

Diners get the full gamut of noodles: delicate rice versions, hearty buckwheat, udon and ramen, all swimming in broths that can range from fatty pork to vegetable-based concoctions. And then come the toppings, where things really get lively, reflecting a range of farm and field.

But it’s also about the feel. “There’s the warmth of the bowl. When it comes to the table, it should be piping hot — almost inedible from a temperature standpoint,” Osaka said.

The mini-surge of modern noodle shops feels a bit like a coincidence, but also a confluence of Denver dining habits — flavorful, approachable foods with a healthy, “clean” aura to them — and an easy-to-manage, budget-friendly niche for restaurateurs.

“A noodle bowl really has just three components,” Osaka said. “You have the broth, the noodles and the toppings.”

But there is complexity in that simplicity, sort of a Zen accumulation of profound depth beyond the mere surface.

Osaka Ramen will offer five ramen bowls, including the Shio, with chicken broth, Japanese sea salt, bonito, seaweed, pork shoulder and poached egg, and the Tonkotsu, with pork broth, bamboo shoots, black garlic oil, pork belly, ginger and poached egg.

The shop will join other recent arrivals that include Tengu at 3053 Brighton Blvd. — the first noodle shop in RiNo — and the popular Katsu Ramen at 1930 S. Havana St. in Aurora.

Cho77, which Symensma (ChoLon Bistro) and Gorby opened earlier this year, is also packing them in. By 5 p.m. on a recent Wednesday, the place was full.

“The cool part about Cho77 is that several of our noodles are rice-based so they are gluten-free.” Symensma said. “Also, unlike many noodle shops that are heavy and fatty, ours are healthy and use lots of fresh citrus and herbs to create bold fresh flavors.”

Cho77 offers four noodle bowls, including a showstopper that mixes shrimp and octopus with rice noodles, grilled pineapple and tofu puffs, plus a more offbeat “bacon, egg and cheese” version with miso bacon, poached eggs and a Parmesan broth.

One thing about this latest wave of noodle shops — they tend to be larger than their Japanese counterparts.

“In Japan, a lot of ramen shops only seat about eight people,” Osaka said. “You come in and eat your ramen bowl in five minutes, then leave. But this is America, where people like to sit and talk over a bottle of wine.”

Osaka’s place will have room for 70 diners, including eight seats at the kitchen bar.

Hashimoto, who opened Tokio in November, wanted a space that was at least as big as Japon, his longtime Washington Park restaurant that he shuttered in 2013.

“We wanted to do sushi and yakitori, but the noodle bowls were a big part of what we wanted to offer,” he said. “Ramen is like a hamburger in the U.S.A. It’s fast food but with big flavors, like miso paste or fish sauce or something spicy.”

Asked why noodle shops seem to be having a bit of a moment, Osaka said he frankly didn’t know. “I’ve been asked that a lot.” he said. “I don’t know why it’s taken so long to hit Denver.

“I never would have predicted this surge. I’m from Los Angeles, so I’ve been eating ramen all my life.”

William Porter: 303-954-1877, wporter@denverpost.com or twitter.com/williamporterdp

Green Tea Soba Noodles with Tuna

This recipe is from chef Charlie Palmer’s new cookbook, “Charlie Palmer’s American Fare: Everyday Recipes from My Kitchens to Yours” (Grand Central Life & Style ). This dish has a distinctly Asian twist. Green tea soba noodles are available at Japanese markets and many supermarkets. Serves six.

Ingredients

¼ cup rice wine vinegar

¼ cup soy sauce

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon mirin

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

¾ cup avocado oil

2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil

2 tablespoons chopped scallions

2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds

12 ounces green tea soba noodles

2 ribs celery, trimmed and shaved crosswise

1 large carrot, peeled and shaved crosswise

1 ½ pounds ahi tuna, cut into ½-inch dice

Directions

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil over high heat. The water should be as salty as the sea.

Combine the rice wine vinegar, soy sauce, lemon juice and mirin in a small mixing bowl and whisk to blend well. Add garlic and ginger, stirring to combine. Begin whisking in the avocado oil and, when blended, whisk in sesame oil. Transfer to a serving bowl and stir in the scallions and sesame seeds. Set this dressing aside.

Add the soba noodles to the boiling water, stirring to loosen them. Return the water to a strong boil, lower the heat, and continue to cook for about 3 minutes or until the noodles are tender. Drain well. Rinse in cold water and place in a colander and drain completely.

Place the soba noodles on a serving platter. Add the celery and carrot, toss to combine, and top with the diced tuna. Serve the sesame dressing on the side.

Quick Beef Noodle Bowl

This hearty broth features shiitake mushrooms and comes courtesy of “Nourish: The Paleo Healing Cookbook,” by Rachael Bryant (Page Street Publishing). Serves four.

Ingredients

2 teaspoons coconut or avocado oil

½ onion

4-inch piece peeled ginger root

6 garlic cloves, peeled and mashed

1 cinnamon stick

2 whole dried cloves

8 cups beef broth

½ ounce dried shiitake mushrooms

4 zucchini

1 pound beef sirloin

1 tablespoon gluten-free fish sauce

GARNISH

½ onion

2 limes

Fresh cilantro leaves

Fresh basil leaves

Fresh mint leaves

Green onions

Directions

In a saucepan, heat the oil over medium-low heat and add the onion half, cut side down. Cut the ginger into slices and add to pan, along with garlic. Cook until softened, about 5 minutes, then add cinnamon and cloves. Pour in beef broth and turn up the heat, bringing to a simmer for about 30 minutes.

While the broth is infusing, soak the mushrooms in just enough hot water to cover them. Peel the zucchini, then use a mandoline or julienne peeler to make long strips of zucchini “noodles.” Reserve those in the refrigerator for later. Slice the beef thinly against the grain and pop the sliced beef in the fridge, too. Thinly slice the onion, quarter the limes and roughly chop the cilantro, basil, mint and green onions. Set out the garnishes in bowls or on a platter.

Use a slotted spoon to remove the onion, ginger, carlic, cinnamon and cloves from the broth and discard. Add the mushrooms along with the soaking liquid, as well as the fish sauce to the still-simmering broth. Divide zucchini “noodles” and sliced beef between four bowls and ladle the hot brother over the top, which will cook the beef. Let guests garnish as they please.