1 of 1 2 of 1

I’ve just returned home from Germany, where I’d been invited to attend ProWein, now the biggest wine trade show in the world. How big? We’re talking over 6,000 exhibitors from 57 countries spread throughout nine massive convention halls. There were more than 50,000 people in attendance over a three-day period.

For the most part, it’s walk-around-tasting-style like any wine festival, but there are also plenty of opportunities for one-on-one appointments, along with various forums and seminars, plus self-serve regional or thematic tasting stations.

Those three days, along with energy, stamina, and the arches of one’s feet, become things of the past before you know it, so while it’s impossible to cohesively tackle the whole event, I made sure to scratch the surface of most major areas, and take note of what kept people buzzing. Here’s a small handful of observations that rose to the surface.

Biodynamics and beyond

There were more than a few areas and events devoted to natural wines, those made with minimal intervention and without the aid of chemicals in the vineyard or winery, along with those focused on organic wines and those farmed according to biodynamic practices. All of these aspects of the show were wildly popular, and it certainly wasn’t just with aging hippies or millennial hipsters looking to be the cool kids.

All walks of life and positions in the trade, including global importers looking to beef up their portfolios, were flocking to these parts of the show, where producers were more likely to discuss the quality and validity of their wines, rather than simply winemaking methods.

It’s fine and dandy to take these more honest approaches to wine, but if what’s in the glass ain’t that great, then the method of getting there quickly becomes moot at best, or a scapegoat at worst. Far from fringe movements, many wines falling into these categories were some of the most exciting I had at the fair.

Of particular note was Château L’Escart 2013 Cuvée Eden (Bordeaux, France; $30.15, available at Granville Liquor Store, 2658 Granville Street), a biodynamic Merlot-driven blend rounded out by Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, farmed and crafted by the Laurent family, who have been making wine in Entre-Deux-Mers for seven generations. Expect red berry fruit, leather, and fresh mint on the nose, then brambly currants, sun-dried tomato, cherries, and good gravelly notes from their crisp limestone soils on the palate.

Myth-busting Australia

Slowly but surely, the demand for Australian wine is rallying. This comes after a glut of industrial, boozy, ultrasweet plonk swept the world years back, only for its market share to eventually come crashing down hard. The resurgence we’re seeing now, which proved popular at ProWein, centres around well-made wines, expressive of regional terroir, that even offer a little spring in their step. Think Clare Valley Rieslings, delicate Pinot Noirs from the Yarra Valley, sparkling from Tasmania, and elegant, Rhône-inspired blends from McLaren Vale.

Also, let’s stop thinking of the country as New World. When the phylloxera epidemic decimated European vineyards in the late 1800s—resulting in vines being replanted, grafted onto pest-resistant rootstock—vine cuttings from France and Spain had already found themselves happily and healthily snug in Australian soils, many of them still going strong today.

Want to drink Shiraz made from some of the oldest vines on Earth? Pick up a bottle of Turkey Flat Vineyards 2012 Shiraz (Barossa Valley, Australia; $45.99, B.C. Liquor Stores), made from vines established in 1847.

Everyone loves bubble

Regardless of country, grape variety, or technique used to get there, it seems there’s an insatiable global demand for wine with bubbles. Sure, Champagne never goes out of style, everyone loves Spanish cava, and Italian prosecco continues to be wildly popular, but there were also plenty clamouring for British, Chilean, Californian, and German sparkling, and so on.

Seriously, who could say no to Germany’s charming, citrus- and apple-laden Dr. Loosen Sparkling Riesling ($15.99, B.C. Liquor Stores), with its kiss of sweetness and overall affability?

Reining in the alcohol

Over the years there’s been a fairly consistent myth that a higher alcohol percentage means a wine is of higher quality and value. More and more, consumers are realizing that wines with more booze often leave them more tipsy or lethargic than they’d like. Quality comes at all levels, and turning that dial down just a bit can make a big difference. In fact, we’re even seeing some markets like Australia make a point of fearlessly advertising certain wines as lower-alcohol.

If the bustling Loire Valley, France, section of the fair with its tendency toward bright, lively reds was any indication, we’ll see more light-on-their-feet reds crashing on our shores quite soon. More wines like Jean-Maurice Raffault 2013 Chinon (Loire Valley, France; $19.49, B.C. Liquor Stores), with its crunchy, red Cabernet Franc fruit, smattering of fresh herbs, and glistening minerality? Hell, yeah.