Locals in the Amazon basin know about wild cacao; most of it is Criollo, the most aromatic variety, or a close relative. Recently, outsiders have begun working with indigenous groups to sell Peruvian and Ecuadorean chocolate beyond the region.

Now they are turning to Bolivia. On a visit there two years ago, a Danish chef, Rasmus Bo Bojesen, met with Marcela Baldivieso and David Vacaflores, who had found the cacao trees growing on islets in an Amazon tributary about 10 years earlier. Mr. Bojesen, who had worked at Bernachon, an esteemed chocolatier in Lyon, France, joined their chocolate project in the village of Baures. There they ferment and dry the beans, which are then transported to Denmark, where the organic cacao is turned into simple 70 percent chocolate slabs and tablets, for nibbling and cooking, with organic Brazilian cane sugar the only additive. The Oialla chocolate, which was given a common Bolivian girl’s name, has an intense depth of rich, bittersweet flavor. All of these projects help the rain forest and the villages.

Oialla Chocolate is sold at Épicerie Boulud in 2.2-pound slabs, $44 a pound. Individual squares are about $5. A 100-gram (4-ounce) box of five small bars is $50, from caputoschocolate.com, and at some Neiman Marcus stores.