The newly opened Cosy Club in Cardiff offers a sense of mystery upon discovery.

Passing by St David’s shopping centre on a chilly evening from work, a brightly-lit sign on Hill Street caught my eye. Peering through the glass window, there was a vacant lobby. If I hadn’t noticed an inquisitive middle-aged couple creeping up the staircase inside, I would have presumed it to be closed.

Returning on another occasion with a guest, I found that upstairs is where the magic is at, showcasing a large shadowy floor space overlooking The Hayes. At the size of 7300 square feet, it’s the largest Cosy Club to date and the first in Wales.

It’s certainly cosy and warm, with candle-lit tables, furnished with eccentric décor. Think Downtown Abbey meets grandma’s house meets taxidermist. There’s even a hat and coat stand in the corner.

It looks and sounds rather sophisticated. But upon being seated with a menu, signs began to show that the restaurants atmosphere was more relaxed than pretentious. After all, you’re meant to feel homely.

One man a few tables away gracefully sipped from his wine glass wearing his gaudy scarf of similar colour to this tomato shaped squeeze bottle. The taste of cheap ketchup brought back fond memories of Barry Island…

It’s a restaurant where you could be sophisticated and buy a bottle of Laurent-Perrier Rosé for £75.00, or for some maybe not. But it’s still the kind of place you can indulge in comfortable familiar tastes, such as a burger and a beer, or even a brunch.

My guest ordered the Cosy Club breakfast. (Served all day) A Sausage pattie, hash browns, Heinz baked beans, black pudding, grilled tomato, button mushrooms, smoked back bacon, fried egg and toast for £6.95, with a moreish side portion of skin on fries for £2.50.

He enjoyed the breakfast. The black pudding was delicious and there were no cheapo beans in the making of the breakfast, good old Heinz. I agreed that the bacon could have been a little less crispy and the sausage pattie was on the small side, but it left him full and content.

Posting our whereabouts on Facebook, a friend recommended the Sirloin steak. However, decided to order the West Country faggots with champ mash, minted mushy peas and a red onion and ‘Togaman’ ale gravy for £8.50.

The mash was creamy and light, but could have been a bit more buttery, while the peas could have been more a little more minted. The sweet taste of the onion ale gravy worked well with the meaty faggots. It’s definitely a dish to order again.

With room for desert, I ordered the classic sticky toffee pudding with vanilla ice cream for £4.75. Small portioned, yet simple and tasty.

The staff members were prompt and helpful. Looking over at a couple who had just arrived, the dashing waiter pulled out the seats from the table with a smile. For a busy weekday evening, there was no effort to attract our waitress’s attention for more drinks or asking for the bill.

Whether you choose to be classy or comfy, when it’s time to grab your coat, this restaurant will at least let you leave on a bill of under £30 for two…

Address: 1 Hills Street, St David’s Dewi Sant, Cardiff

Website: http://www.cosyclub.co.uk/cardiff

Phone: 02920 225998