As Hurricane Harvey continues to devastate the Gulf Coast, Houston and the surrounding region are only beginning to reckon with a recovery process that experts are saying could take years. With first responders and government agencies consumed by immediate, life-saving rescue operations, civilian volunteers have played a crucial role in assisting the thousands of Texans who have been displaced by the storm. Unsurprisingly, the Houston restaurant community has stepped up as a major leader in relief efforts, donating meals to first responders, hosting fundraisers, and simply comforting members of the community—even as they face the repercussions of the storm for their own families and businesses.

A number of Houston chefs, from Seth Siegel-Gardner and Terrence Gallivan of The Pass & Provisions to Chris Shepherd of Underbelly and Hay Merchant, have jumped at the chance to help fuel the exhausted staffs at police stations, firehouses, and hospitals. In most cases, the policy is to feed the community "until we run out," since delivery interruptions have limited supplies in the kitchen.

When Oxheart chef Justin Yu finally managed to reach his restaurant Theodore Rex, which was due to open this fall in the old Oxheart location in Downtown Houston, it was completely flooded. "When I saw a trash can floating through what was basically a river outside and helicopter airlifting someone out of a nearby building," he says, "I knew I had to turn around and find a way to help." Two of his three businesses were flooded, but the one that remained dry (the recently opened Better Luck Tomorrow) immediately redirected its kitchen operations to provide free meals to first responders. "I could sit here feeling bad for myself," says Yu, "But I then I see people who have lost their houses, their jobs, their mode of transport... at least I can rebuild."

It's not just first responders who are grateful for the services provided by restaurants whose staffs are braving harsh conditions, limited resources, and a citywide curfew in order to keep their doors open. With grocery stores either closed or stripped bare and power shut off in many areas of the city, restaurants have become a welcome refuge for Houston residents seeking a hot meal. "People have been stuck in their homes for days on end," says Ryan Pera of Coltivare, "so there was an incredible conviviality when things finally started to let up last night. It’s been incredibly moving to see the reconnections happen with friends and neighbors. That is what a restaurant is all about."

And the restaurant community's bond isn't limited by city or state borders. "We’ve had so much outreach from chefs and restaurants from around the country," says Shepherd, "My phone is blowing up with like 50 texts a day." José Andrés and his non-profit World Central Kitchen have traveled to Houston, where they are recruiting chefs from around the country to join them in preparing meals for those affected by flooding; Austin-based Salt Lick BBQ has set up "Operation BBQ Relief", while In-N-Out Burger has set up a mobile kitchen outside the downtown convention center; and restaurants across the country (see list below) have set up fundraisers.