August 22. This day in 1639 was memorable for Madras. Do you know why?

For those who are sentimental about Chennai, it will always be Madras. Located on the Coromandel coast of the Bay of Bengal, this city finds its way into the hearts of residents and visitors making them love its idiosyncrasies, its soft brush with modernism and its cold stance on being traditional and conservative.

With a long and interesting history, this city, the fourth largest in India, has evolved from a few fishing hamlets to an industrial hub with a thriving automobile, IT, garment and movie industry.

Going back in time

A painting at the Fort Museum: Fort St. George. Photo: R. Shivaji Rao

It was Beri Thimmappa, the dubash of Francis Day, who brokered a deal leasing the sandy strip of land to Day in return for trade benefits, army protection and Persian horses. The Grant secured on August 22, 1639 was to be for two years and allowed the East India Company to build a fort and castle on its strip of land. When this Grant expired, a new one was signed and this one expanded the rights of the English. This new Grant was important because it saw the beginning of the growth of the city.

The construction of Fort St. George began in 1640. Once completed it grew into being the core around which the city began to develop. Fortified as it was, it became a citadel for the English during their many forays into war and fighting.

After Independence, Madras became the capital of the state.

Culture

In sync with nature: Bharatanatyam at the Kalakshetra Foundation. Photo: S. R. Raghunathan

In December, the city plays host to music lovers of the world. A five-week Music Season, described as one of the world’s largest cultural events, rocks the city with its sweet melodies.

Bharatanatyam is a classical dance form and is the official dance of Tamil Nadu. In a beautiful campus near the sea is Kalakshetra, a place of learning for this dance. Kalakshetra, meaning “place of the arts”, attracts students from all over the world.

The Tamil movie industry, fondly referred to as Kollywood, churns out almost 100 movies every year and the sound tracks from these movies play a merry tune as you go about your way.

Chennai is also known for its Theosophical Society, a section of the Society founded by Helena Petrovna Blavatsky, Henry Steel Olcott and others in 1875 and headquartered in Adyar.

At the top

Natural urban beach: The longest in the country. Photo: M. Srinath

The University of Madras, established in 1857 is one of the oldest universities in India and The Presidency College is one of the oldest government arts colleges in the country.

If you want to chill out in the evening, the Marina is where you head out to. A natural, urban beach, it runs from near Fort St. George to Besant Nagar, making it the longest beach in the country and the world’s second longest.

In 1794, the Government Survey School was established. It is the oldest engineering school outside Europe and is now a part of the Anna University.

Yale connection

Elihu Yale, after whom Yale University is named, was the governor of Madras for five years. It was a part of the fortune he made in Madras that made it possible for his generous contribution to Yale University.

WWI

September 1914: After Emden bombarded the city - an unexploded shell. Photo: The Hindu Photo Library

The closest brush with war was during World War I. The German light cruiser “SMS Emden” attacked an oil depot demolishing the shipping lanes in the Indian Ocean causing interruption to shipping. Madras was the only Indian city which was attacked during World War I.

Book talk

Long shelf life: Higginbothams on Anna Salai

The Higginbothams connection with books is old....very old. The main bookstore on Anna Salai (Mount Road) has been around since 1844.

In March 1859, in a letter to Lord Macaulay, Lord Trevelyan, the Governor of Madras, wrote: Among the many elusive and indescribable charms of life in Madras City, is the existence of my favourite book shop Higginbothams on Mount Road. In this bookshop I can see beautiful editions of the works of Socrates, Plato, Euripides, Aristophanes, Pindar, Horace, Petrarch, Tasso, Camoyens, Calderon and Racine. I can get the latest editions of Victor Hugo, the great French novelist. Amongst the German writers, I can have Schiller and Goethe. Altogether a delightful place for the casual browser and a serious book lover.”