Lou Gerber

For FLORIDA TODAY

Countries belonging to the British Commonwealth all have national emblems, some of which we know and recognize immediately, like the English Tudor Rose, the Scottish Thistle, the Irish Shamrock and the Canadian Maple Leaf.

Rarely do we find any symbol that’s imminently edible, until we come to Wales, where the leek is its prominent emblem.

Granted, Wales has an alternate or secondary symbol, the daffodil, which grows abundantly in season. But the leek is preferred for two reasons. One is that its colors, green and white, are reflections of the ancient and still-in-use Welsh flag.

The other is such a well-established myth that it’s seemingly become fact. Back in the 6th century when St. David was a well-regarded Welsh bishop, later to become patron saint of Wales, he urged all Welsh soldiers engaged in a battle against invading Saxons to wear leeks on their helmets or armor to differentiate them from the enemy. The Welsh won the battle, reportedly fought in a field of leeks.

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To commemorate that important victory, and honor what is now St. David’s Day on March 1, Welsh citizens wear a leek on their clothing, though some prefer the alternative daffodil, which is far less pungent to breathe for a full day.

Beyond this one-day celebration, the Welsh Guards, a regiment within the Household Division of the British Army, wear a leek badge on their hats as part of their uniform.

Leek references go on and on, in poetry, painting, literature and even in lines in Shakespeare’s “Henry V.”

Beyond Wales, leek images have been found in ancient Egyptian tombs, and there are leek references in the Bible. According to history chronicler, Pliny the Elder, the Emporer Nero was a heavy leek consumer, a proponent of both its healthful and medicinal properties.

We find homage to the leek as a symbol of Wales in modern times as well. An image of it was embroidered on Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation gown. And the current British one-pound coin features a leek on the reverse to represent Wales as part of the United Kingdom.

In Wales, as well in other parts of the United Kingdom, the leek is an integral part of local cuisine. Leeks are a member of the onion family, which includes shallots, scallions, chives and garlic. As such, their use is mostly as a seasoning to soups, stews and other dishes, although there are a few preparations where they are treated as a vegetable side dish, kind of like asparagus.

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If cooked properly, a simple leek side dish can be pleasing, since cooking tempers its pre-cooked strong flavor. Think creamed onions, for example.

Here’s one treatment that’s both delicious and distinctive. If preferred, another vegetable, like broccoli or asparagus, can be combined with the steamed leeks. Or the leeks can be used as a bed for poached white fish or chicken.

Gerber is a former restaurant critic. For 24 years, he owned and managed a large, award-winning restaurant on Hilton Head Island, South Carolina.

CREAMY DIJON LEEKS

2 leeks

1 shallot, chopped fine

1 tablespoon butter

1 teaspoon olive oil

1 tablespoon flour

1 cup chicken broth

1 ½ tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoon chopped parsley

Wash the leeks thoroughly, trim off the thin roots at the base of the white end. Then cut both the white and green parts into 3-inch pieces.

Put the leek pieces into the top of a steamer and cook until tender (about 12-15 minutes).

Saute the chopped shallot in the butter and olive oil until cooked.

Mix in the flour, stirring constantly, and cook for 2 minutes.

Gradually whisk in the chicken broth, stirring until slightly thickened.

Whisk in the Dijon mustard.

Arrange portions of the steamed leeks on side plates and top with generous servings of the sauce.