It was the British military’s first nuclear test at Maralinga—the first of seven over seven years—in a program that would ravage the health of the region’s Indigenous communities and irreversibly scar the landscape. One of the lesser-known facets of this story, though, is that the test site has recently been opened for sightseeing. It’s one of those “dark tourism” opportunities that draws young people in from the cities—and I was one such candidate keen to take a look; to see what’s there, but also to try and understand this insane period of Australian history.