How big and bad is the Gangster Burger?

After online interest in what must be the most massive sandwich on St. Paul’s North End, the Pioneer Press had to see for itself.

Jason Tall, the chef of the Rice Street Deli, took a full 20 minutes Friday to fry up his culinary opus: two half-pound hamburger patties, three six-ounce steaks, a half-pound of gyro meat, a half-pound of Italian beef, and six slices of cheese – on a sesame seed bun.

“You sure you want it? You know what’s on it?” Tall asked.

Yes.

“You want the deluxe?” Tall asked.

Sure – that included a leaf or two of lettuce and a wedge of onion. Picture a sprig of parsley on a porterhouse.

Though the sandwich goes for $15.99, Tall said he tries hard to discourage people from ordering them.

“I don’t make too many of these . I don’t make any money on them. Look at all that meat!”

Then there’s the logistics of sizzling up four types of meat on a tiny grill. The meat required for just one G-Burger took up every bit of fry space.

“If anyone else orders anything right now, I’ll be screwed,” Tall fretted.

Patrons crowded to watch: “Oh man, haven’t seen one of these yet,” one gaped.

The seven-inch high creation, too big for any of Tall’s to-go boxes, much less a pair of human jaws, had to be packaged in several layers of foil. It took two people to wrap it.

“See? Like a pyramid,” Tall said, carefully tucking the three-pound mound in a plastic bag.

Four hours later, Pioneer Press staffers had yet to consume the G-Burger. Most were content to stare at it. Culinary assessments varied.

One reporter, a vegetarian, jokingly tried to file a police report for terroristic threats.

“That’s not a crime. That’s delicious!” said St. Paul police spokesperson Peter Panos.

The deli is tucked in one corner of the Reemco Gas Stop at Rice Street and Maryland Avenue. It was opened in August as a way to help the struggling gas station survive.

Tall said one of his other creations – Gangster fries, or fried potatoes topped with gyro meat, melted cheese and cucumber sauce – is a big hit.

“I had a 70-year-old lady come in and ask for Gangster fries. That made my day,” he said.

Tad Vezner can be reached at 651-228-5461.