2 onions, sliced or chopped

1/2 teaspoon coriander seeds, crushed

2 small bay leaves

1 lemon, sliced in rounds

Chopped fresh parsley for garnish

1. Pat sardines dry and season on both sides with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil over medium-high heat in a large, heavy skillet and add sardines. Cook on one side for about 2 1/2 minutes, flip over and cook on the other side for another 2 1/2 minutes, or until flesh is opaque and flakes when poked with a fork. Add 2 tablespoons of the vinegar, toss together and scrape bottom of pan with a spoon to deglaze. Remove from heat and transfer to a ceramic baking dish.

2. In a mortar and pestle, mash together garlic, a generous pinch of salt, saffron and ginger.

3. Heat remaining olive oil over medium heat in the skillet in which you cooked the sardines and add onions and pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, until onions are tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic mix, coriander seeds and bay leaves and continue to cook, stirring often, until onions are very soft but not browned (add a little salt if they begin to stick), another 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in remaining vinegar and turn heat to medium low. Simmer for another 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and add to dish with sardines. Toss together gently.

4. Top sardines with lemon slices. Cover dish and refrigerate for at least 1 hour (as long as overnight). Before serving, sprinkle with parsley.

Yield: Serves 4

Advance preparation: The dish will keep for 2 to 3 days in the refrigerator.

Nutritional information per serving: 304 calories; 21 grams fat; 4 grams saturated fat; 5 grams polyunsaturated fat; 12 grams monounsaturated fat; 74 milligrams cholesterol; 7 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams dietary fiber; 142 milligrams sodium (does not include salt to taste); 24 grams protein