Iraq, the land of the two rivers and ancient Mesopotamian empires is the perfect blend of different landscape terrains where mankind took their first steps toward reading, writing, creating laws and governance. Over the past four decades, Iraq’s spiraling political and security climate has substantially hindered the protection of its rich heritage, culture and peoples. Despite deteriorating conditions and my upbringing in the west, stories from my childhood of sentiment and love for Iraq – told to me by my parents – provoked a continuing and deep yearning to visit the land of my ancestors. In January 2018, I visited Iraq for the first time in 11 years.

I had the pleasure of joining a team of academics and museum curators to deliver a training programme organised by the Friends of Basrah Museum (museum in Basra is still spelt as Basrah) in partnership with The Ashmolean Museum, The Aga Khan Museum, Glasgow Museums, and The British Institute for the Study of Iraq, to train Iraqi museum and cultural heritage professionals. Yet while documenting the training, I discovered a world of culture that exists beyond the museum walls.

I set out to capture the side of Iraq that is not often seen, highlighting the people, the beautiful landscapes, and the famous Iraqi hospitality, with one day of cultural exploration:

The Journey

With the kind facilitation of the Director of the Basrah Museum, we visited the Chibayish Marshlands, located only 116km North-West of Basra. Having only heard of the Marshes, it certainly lived up to my expectations.