It’s home to the original Ninfa’s, the restaurant that put fajitas on the map, first for Houston, then for Texas, then for America and the world. And aside from a few other spots like nearby Our Lady of Guadalupe Church, few institutions have been around El Segundo as long as D&W, aside from what used to be the Maxwell House coffee plant, a 16-story roasting facility that closed this year. Once open around the clock, the plant was the reason D&W owner Keith Weyel has always maintained a 7 AM opening hour and 2 AM last call—every minute Texas law allows. It made sense to catch those third shift workers on their way home in the morning, and it was also a hit with weary cops and assistant district attorneys—it’s always felt like a place where you might stumble into Texas versions of The Wire’s Jimmy McNulty and Bunk Moreland, maybe a little worse for drink. And they might just be sitting right next to and laughing with barrio toughs they’ve locked up on multiple occasions.