Pulling all-nighters in the run-up to a catwalk show is a well-known practice in the fashion industry. For Moschino’s creative director, Jeremy Scott, at his Milan show this week, even that was not enough – or so he would have us believe.

“Fashion today moves so darned crazy fast,” the show notes informed guests. “It’s accelerated to such a lunatic pace that Jeremy simply didn’t have time to complete the collection. [He’s] been working like a trouper and only sometimes grabbing a few hours’ shut-eye on his sketching desk. But the fashion calendar stops for no one.”

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Accessories were typically irreverent, including measuring-tape clutch bags, scribbled-on tights and wide-brimmed hats. Photograph: Pixelformula/Sipa/Rex/Shutterstock

The statement was, of course, not true, but Scott was making a much bigger one. The increased speed at which the industry is moving, and fast fashion – the theme of his first collection for Moschino in 2014 – are pressing issues.Since then the designer has not shied away from making social and political statements with his designs, exploring themes such as conspiracy theories, body image and recycling.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Kendall Jenner carrying an oversized bottle of Toy 2, Moschino’s new women’s fragrance. Photograph: Pixelformula/Sipa/Rex/Shutterstock

This time, skirt suits were printed in rough felt-tip sketches. These scribbles covered everything from from hats to tights and varied from leopard to fashion figurine designs. Elsewhere, the Moschino teddy-bear mascot came illustrated on T-shirts, while another of the house’s signatures, chunky gold chains, were drawn on tracksuits, mini dresses and swimsuits.

This ingenuity was mixed with the whimsical as specific objects from the atelier morphed into runway looks. Huge metallic pattern-cutting scissors formed the structured silhouette of an evening gown; a thimble became a hat; and a ruffled tape measure transformed into a floor-length scarf. One model arrived carrying a roll of fabric still attached to her dress – the ultimate poster girl for this collection, entitled Unfinished Business.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest The fashion pack: Jeremy Scott (centre) with the singer WizKid, presenter Thando Thabethe, model Jasmine Saunders AKA Golden Barbie, record producer Cassper Nyovest and model River Viiperi. Photograph: David M Benett/Getty Images

Scott is no sloucher. In addition to heading up the menswear and womenswear at Moschino in Milan, he runs his eponymous label from New York, and this year he has added a collaboration with H&M. The collection, which will be unveiled in October, presents Scott with a chance to reach a new audience at a lower price point. “I thought it was the perfect opportunity for me to deliver further what I wanted to do when I first came to Moschino with the french fries phone case,” he said, referring to the entry-level accessory that became a cult hit.

His collections, for all their daring, often divide opinion. Scott, who cites designers such as Thierry Mugler among his role models for his ability to create a distinctive world, is happy to keep sketching outside the lines. “I don’t do something that’s for everyone … I wouldn’t dull myself down to appeal to more people. It’s not that middle of the road; it’s not who I am,” he said.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Here comes the bride … Gigi Hadid in a puffball wedding gown. Photograph: Dave Benett/Getty Images

His method seems to be working. In July, Moschino’s owner, Aeffe, reported a 79% jump in net profits in the first half of 2018 to €8.3m (£7.5m), compared with €4.6m in the same period last year. Overall revenues rose 14.1% to €171.1m, compared with €150m for the same period.