Whatever the name, the approachable loaf is made in 20 states, from Kalispell, Mont., to New Haven, Conn., as well as in England, Canada and Australia. For each loaf sold, 10 cents goes back to the Bread Lab to help fund grain research.

The loaf is something of a Trojan horse, a way to sneak healthy ingredients onto the taste buds of a younger generation. Its disguise as a standard-issue sandwich bread might be just the guerrilla tactic needed to get regional whole grains integrated into the developed world’s diet.

“If it’s crusty, you’re not going to get soccer moms saying, ‘Hey, we need to make peanut butter and jelly sandwiches out of this,’” said Anthony Ambeliotis, a member of the collective who sells a version of the approachable loaf for $4.50 at Mediterra Bakehouse, his family bakery outside Pittsburgh.

Despite a growing interest in baking bread and declining consumption of white bread, most loaves sold in America are still less than ideal in nutrients and fiber. Even the whole-grain breads that have reached a national market sometimes contain chemical preservatives or additives, like flavor enhancers or sugars.

“Why is it that ‘affordable’ has to be this hyper-centralized, hyper-processed product?” said Stephen Jones, the director of the Bread Lab, standing in its flour-covered research kitchen in Burlington, Wash., about 70 miles north of Seattle.