Let's break the stool apart from top to bottom. Each 15” round stool seat is 1" thick. Just below that will be a 10" square built out of 1" square tube. Encircling that 10" square will be some 1.5" x 1/ 8 " thick flat bar (C=44.4288", but I'd cut 44 5/ 8 ") turned on edge. Four braces will run inward from the center of the sides of the 10" square. They will need to be cut to 3 1/ 4 " because the stool post running vertical will be 1.5" square tube. Fastening the stool seat to the 10" square will require some gussets (small triangles) to be cut and (3/ 16 ") holes to be drilled in them. You can drill one or two holes per gusset. I prefer two holes but have used a single hole with good results. Back to the 1.5" square tube stool post running down 24 1/ 2 " towards the stool feet (angled out 125 degrees from the vertical, or cut to 55 degrees themselves). If you add the 125 degrees to the 55 degree cut you'll find another mathlete formula for a straight line (adds up to 180). Alright so let’s get back to the stool feet. There are 4 stool feet per stool, one per side of the stool post. I only put two on the sketch so I could give extra measurements and angles. Each of the 1.5" square tube stool feet are 11 1/ 4 " long with the 55 degree cut on one side and a 35 degree cut on the floor side (point to point, reference the image with the small square and the stool leg template I cut). The tip of that stool foot should sit 9 1/ 4 " out from the 1.5" vertical stool post (see the image with my template stool foot and small square). Mathematically speaking I added in an extra 1/ 4 " to the vertical stool post so it could hang down and leave you a good place to weld in case your cuts aren't quite perfect (see the image with the stool upside down). Now on the way down we skipped over the piece of 1" square tube that stabs off at a 45 degree angle that'll support the piece of 1" square tube used for a foot rest. The Foot Rests are really optional, but if you want them then cut a piece of 1" square tube that's 10" long on 45 degree angles (long to short, see the sketch on the right side of the stool). Then for the actual foot rest I'd cut a piece of 1" square tube that's 14" long with 45 degree angles on each end (long to long, see it in the bottom left side of my sketch). Those 45 degree cuts will need some small rectangles cut to cap the ends. You can use some thin sheet metal, a slice out of some 1" square tube, or even some of your 1.5" flat bar. Just trim them to fit, tack, and fully weld the seam when the time comes. The stool feet will also need caps cut. For them I recommend using 1.5" flat bar cut to 3" (It'll give you a slight lip to weld). That leaves us needing to preview my design for the table itself.

We'll again go top down but this time you'll need to look at the next sketch. We'll be using those formulas again so feel free to double check the measurements before you buy and cut material. For the 36" round top, we'll follow a similar frame structure. Instead of a 10" square built out of 1" square tube, we'll use a 24" square built out of 1.5" square tube. That will give us a hypotenuse or diameter of 33.9411" (~34" if you want to round). Plug that 34" diameter in to find our circumference for the encircling 1.5" x 1/ 8 " flat bar and you'll see we need 106.629". I'd cut at least 107" and trim down because depending on your method for bending that large radius it may be short. Most of the images you'll see here are before I built my roller press for bending large radius rolls. Maybe I'll do another instructable for the press one day. So let’s get back to that band… Take a look at the sketch of the table top frame again. You'll see I added in a few more pieces of 1.5" square tube in the middle of each side going out (instead of inward like on the stool seat). Those pieces are going to be 5" long (24" square + 5" brace + 5" brace = 34" diameter). You should also see the position of the gussets. I did not draw the one in the lower left corner though it does need installed. You can always add more gussets if you want. Running from the inside of the 24" square are more pieces of 1.5" square tube that are 9 3/ 4 " long. Those will tie into the 41" vertical post for the table (again 1.5" square tube, see the bottom image in the sketch). If you don't know how to use a framing square or don't know the difference in plumb and level when using a level... Now would be a good time to learn. No one wants their stool to lean or their drink to spill. Alright so now that we've went over the design let’s add all those pieces up and figure out what you need to buy when you go shopping. Earlier I gave you a bunch of measurements during the design preview. Let's make a list of those parts and quantities you'll need to cut out so we can add them up to determine the shopping list.