The correct way to build a snake cages if you want snage cages for sale plz wait

A few months past, i made a decision that cup tanks, tubs, and alternative styles of snake cages simply weren't cutting it. Either they were the incorrect size, or unpleasant, or not stackable. Or it absolutely was not possible to retain heat or wetness... and it is usually been one thing I wished to try to to, and that i wasn't aiming to let living in associate flat stop me!

snake cages I've created are three feet wide, two feet deep and a couple of feet high, with a shelf. this can be quite enough for a female; if you were attempting to conserve house, you may go two.5 feet wide, 1.5 feet deep and one.5 feet high. (For males, I build a snake cages three feet wide, two feet deep and one.5 feet high, and that i split it in 2.) Most of theI've created are three feet wide, two feet deep and a couple of feet high, with a shelf. this can be quite enough for a female; if you were attempting to conserve house, you may go two.5 feet wide, 1.5 feet deep and one.5 feet high. (For males, I build athree feet wide, two feet deep and one.5 feet high, and that i split it in 2.)





Step one - opt for your artifact

If you are on a budget, you may decide on base. you'll be able to use it, however i counsel against it. Enough coats of varathane will build it immune to water, however sooner or later you'll find yourself with warp / swelling. So, I recommend you utilize plyboard - a hardwood plyboard (avoid cedar and alternative soft woods, because the off gas toxic fumes). i take advantage of 3/4" birch plyboard, therefore the cutlist below is for 3/4" plyboard. If you utilize a unique size (no but 5/8", though), you may got to atone for this.

With this size cage, i believe you'll be able to lie with all with one sheet of plyboard (8' x 4'). If you wish an additional piece, most stores have smaller items that you just should buy for an occasional worth to complete your project while not shopping for an entire sheet.





Cutlist:

36" x 24" - 2 items (top and bottom)

22.5" x 24" - 2 items (sides)

34.5" x 22.5" - one piece (back)

34.5" x 4" - one piece (bottom trim / litter dam)

34.5" x 1.5" - one piece (top trim)

18.5" x 1.5" - 2 items (side trim)





Step two - Gather your materials (note costs area unit in CAD)

- The items of cut wood (as above) - $50-80 (my 3/4" birch plyboard is $66 / sheet)

- A box of a hundred and fifty wood nails, size eight x one 1/2 - $5

- A drill and a 1/8" bit

- Wood glue (optional) - $5

- 2 circular vents - $4 (or any vents you please - i favor these)

- Jigsaw to chop a hole for the vents

- One in. bit

- Sand Paper - $5

- three Long screws (3") - $3

- Saw and blade guide - $10

- little will of water primarily based stain, if you wish - $8

- A 3.785 cubic decimetre (1 gallon) will of Waterborne Varathane - $40 (you could be ready to go away with a smaller will, however do yourself a favour and find the massive one. you may save cash within the long-standing time.)

- applier to use the Varathane - $6-10

- Tube of GE I siloxane (plain 100% siloxane, not the mould resistant type) - $8

- around ten feet of glass door slippy track: 3' of "top", and seven feet of "bottom". - $2-3/foot

- Glass (more data below) - $50-70





Step three - live and type your items

When you begin building, delineated your items and take one in every of the 3' x 2' items which is able to act because the bottom of your cage. Then, take one in every of your facet items. As within the image, very cheap can lie flat with the facet on prime of very cheap piece.













Step four - Drill, Glue and Screw

Because plyboard is thus dense, you may have to be compelled to drill pilot holes. For hardwood and eight x 1/2" screws, you may would like a 1/8" bit.

Hold your items along so that they area unit absolutely perpendicular and drill your initial hole where - I begin the highest.









A word on wood glue: you'll be able to actually use wood glue if you wish additionally to the screws (you can even use glue and nails). However, I usually opt to use solely screws; if i want to, I will take the cages apart, and it saves on time and materials that area unit gratuitous given the employment the snake cages can get.

If you're victimisation glue: when drilling your initial hole through the 2 items wherever you may insert the primary screw, separate the items and place a bead of wood glue on the sting of the facet piece.









Put the items back along, screw within the initial screw, build the remainder of your pilot holes and insert screws.





Step five - Repeat!

Using an equivalent drill, (glue) and screw methodology on top of, add the opposite facet of the cage. the rear piece is next, and this can go between the 2 facet items on prime of very cheap piece. when you've got hooked up the rear to the edges, flip the cage onto one in every of the edges thus you'll be able to attach the rear piece.

When the rear is hooked up, flip the cage into its bottom and place a bead of glue round the fringe of the highest, and punctiliously place the highest piece.













Start by drilling and ass each corners. you'll have to be compelled to wiggle the edges alittle bit therefore the corners meet flush with the edges. Continue drilling round the prime.





Step six - Vent Holes

So currently you've got your basic box. We'll be doing the trim later; I like end the drilling and sawing before adding the trim, as a result of it makes the cage lots easier to scrub out.





First, decide wherever you wish your vent. I sometimes place one vent on all sides, and one vent 10" from the highest and also the alternative vent 10" from very cheap (centered horizontally). Trace the form of your vent.









Using your one in. bit (or any size sufficiently big to induce the jigsaw blade in - i take advantage of a 3/4" bit within the photo), drill a hole within the circle, close to the road you sketched.













Insert the jigsaw blade into the opening you trained and saw towards the sketched line, following it around during a circle, so creating the right hole for your vent.





Do an equivalent on the opposite facet, however creating your hole 10" from the highest rather than 10" from very cheap.





Step six - Bottom Trim and Shelf

snake cages with vent holes. Clean out your snake cages of wood, and switch it onto one in every of the edges. Take your bottom trim piece, and place a bead of glue (if you wish) round the 2 sides and also the bottom of the trim piece, and place it within the bottom of the cage. Drill your pilot holes and screw in situ, then wipe off any glue that squished out. Now you've got yourwith vent holes. Clean out yourof wood, and switch it onto one in every of the edges. Take your bottom trim piece, and place a bead of glue (if you wish) round the 2 sides and also the bottom of the trim piece, and place it within the bottom of the cage. Drill your pilot holes and screw in situ, then wipe off any glue that squished out.





I love putt shelves in my cages; it will increase floor house and my snakes very do use them. you'll be able to build a visible rectangular shelf, however I since I even have a jigsaw anyway, i favor to create mine curvy employing a scrap piece of wood. So, take your scrap piece and sketch out your rough form. during this case, I had already used that piece for alternative shelves, thus it absolutely was already a weird form and that i simply cut the sting off.

After sawing, sand the sting of your shelf thus there area unit splinters or sharp edges. In viewing these photos, I see a did somewhat of a shoddy job sawing this shelf. Oops!









Step seven - putting in the Shelf

I continuously had a tough time putting in shelves till I started doing it this fashion. notice a box or some thick books to support your shelf at the peak you wish it. live the peak of the box / books. On the rear of the cage, wherever you may screw within the shelf, live this height from very cheap of the cage, adding 3/4" for the thickness of very cheap. for instance, if your box is 12" high, measure 12.75" from the floor/bottom of the cage. Then add .375" to induce it into the center of the shelf.









Mark that height on the rear of your snake-cages. you may need to insert 2 screws within the back of the cage to carry up the shelf, thus house out the 2 screws (i.e., if your shelf is 15" wide, place one screw at 5" from the facet of the cage, and also the next at 10" from the side). Drill your pilot holes, employing a larger drill as needed by the larger screws you're victimisation, and screw within the screws. Do an equivalent on the facet of the cage with the last long screw to secure the shelf. And voila: you've got yourself a shelf!









Step eight - Finishing your trim

Get your initial trim piece and your saw and blade guide. you wish to chop a forty five degree angle off on one facet, therefore the flat facet can sit flush on very cheap trim, and also the highest facet can rest within the prime corner. Drill and screw as was common. Cut your alternative facet trim an equivalent and place it on the facet of the snake cage.

Lastly, cut either side of your prime trim at a forty five degree angle, thus it's sort of a (very long) trapezoid.









And your snake cages is built!

Step nine - Staining and protection

snake cages, now could be the time. I failed to stain this cage, however once I do stain, I stain the skin solely. You actually will strain the within if you wish to. In my expertise, a cherry is my favorite - it's deep however still picks informed the wood grain. Wood stained red is additionally lots nicer than that shiny red base coating. Chocolate brown is good too, however you will not see abundant wood grain. If you wish to stain your, now could be the time. I failed to stain this cage, however once I do stain, I stain the skin solely. You actually will strain the within if you wish to. In my expertise, a cherry is my favorite - it's deep however still picks informed the wood grain. Wood stained red is additionally lots nicer than that shiny red base coating. Chocolate brown is good too, however you will not see abundant wood grain.





Always use a water-based stain, ne'er oil primarily based. employing a soft rag or staining sponge, poor some stain onto the highest of the cage and wipe it into the wood with the sponge/cloth. unfold it as way as you'll be able to and add some a lot of. once doing vertical surfaces, place your sponge/cloth over the gap of the bottle and switch the bottle the wrong way up rigorously, thus you do not get any on your floor (or carpet in my case). you'll have to be compelled to dab at the sides of the plyboard to induce the stain into the insufficient crevaces. One coat ought to be enough; let it dry for twenty-four hours before protection.