Tommy Ton has been to enough fashion shows to know that when he staged his first for Deveaux, the New York label where he’s been creative director for a little over a year, he didn’t want an old-school up-the-runway-and-back format. Instead, with Henri Scars Struck on the piano, his multigenerational models (including a white-haired gentleman 82 years young) milled about the space exchanging glances, embracing, and walking arm in arm in an evocation of what happens on the street. Stephen Galloway did the choreography. It was an apt concept for Deveaux, where Ton has described the aesthetic as “beautiful everyday pieces with a gestural, loose fit.”

For close followers of Ton’s post-street style work, this collection will look familiar. It’s a reprise of the men’s lineup he and Deveaux cofounder Andrea Tsao showed in January, only this time both women and men wore the clothes. In fact, the collection is almost fully interchangeable, with only the graceful bias-cut acetate dresses and scarf-neck blouses reading as categorically for-females, though time will probably prove that assumption wrong. Ton is very fond of a tossed-over-the-shoulder gesture; one novelty here were the cashmere crewnecks with built-in asymmetrical capes. His suiting is minimal—there are no visible closures or hardware, for example—but it’s not clinical. That’s down to the workwear inspiration behind the trousers and the jackets’ relaxed, easy fit, a sensibility that extends to Deveaux’s outerwear, which features sloping shoulders and sashed waists. The standout coats were single-breasted and plaid, inset with solid panels loosely tracing the side seams. Ton showed one on a man and the other on a woman, driving home his one-for-all message.