Useful Info

Mera and Island Peak (2 Peaks) Climbing Difficulty

Mera and Island Peak are two of the most beautiful Himalayan peaks that are located in the Khumbu Region. Geographically these two mountain peaks are very near. However, a mountain chain divides these two mountains. This trek and mountain expedition offers the most amazing mountain views and close insight of two of the remote valleys over the Himalayas. The real thrill is to cross the Amphu Labtsa Pass (5780m).

Though Mera is slightly higher than the Island Peak, Mera is technically more straightforward. Ropes, glacier crossing equipments, crampons and ice axes is must for trekking and you should not underestimate any of them.

The summit of the both peaks is a strenuous, technically challenging, and physically demanding one. Anyone wishing to undertake this challenging journey is suggested to prepare well and enough before the journey.

Mera and Island Peak (2 Peaks) Climbing Season

Peak Climbing in Nepal is a seasonal activity. Autumn and Spring are the best seasons for climbing most of the mountains in Nepal. Autumn Season (September, October & November) and Spring Season (March, April & May) are the perfect seasons for Mera and Island Peak Climbing. During these months, the days will be sunny and warm in the Himalayas. The skies will be clear and the atmosphere of the Himalayas will be alluring. Thus, we can have great views of the mountains. Nevertheless, some adventure-seeking clients who don’t like hustle and bustle during the journey also can choose Winter Season (December, January, and February) months for this trip. Monsoon season (June, July, and August) will be pretty difficult time for climbing in the Himalayas because of monsoon. During monsoon the trails will be slippery, muddy and there will be landslides too.

Mera and Island Peak (2 Peaks) Climbing Preparations

The best preparation for tomorrow is doing your best today. Preparation is a key to success of any activity. Good preparations are must for the successful peak climbing. You need to consider several things before going for peak climbing. For the successful Mera and Island Peak Climbing, your physique plays a vital role. So, you must prepare yourself before the climb. You would better join a mountaineering course for 4-6 months. Otherwise, you can join gym and have aerobic training, cardio, stress endurance training, hiking trainings etc. You can also practice jogging, cycling, swimming, hiking etc. on a regular basis. Your previous experiences on mountaineering are also important. So, you must practice hiking to some smaller peaks. Similarly, you should be careful about your diet. You must include plenty of protein, carbohydrates, and minerals in your diet. A balanced diet is very important for physical fitness. Moreover, you must be mentally ready to cope up with the adverse situations in the mountain. The weather is unstable at high altitude and you should also spend couple of days in a camp. Hygiene matters a lot for the success of the climb. In addition to all these, you must also go through Mera and Island Peak Gears checklist and have enough collection of them.

Physical Fitness & Experience Required for Mera and Island Peak (2 Peaks)

Mera and Island Peak Climbing is a technical adventure activity in Nepal which requires previous trekking experience and technical skills about peak climbing gears to have successful summit. The trip is very suitable for adventure motivated trekkers who have ability to walk in snows ridges and adventurous trails. Walking in high altitudes might attract high altitude sickness, slow and steady walk would be the perfect solution. We suggest every trekker who are planning to come to Nepal for trekking and peak climbing adventure to do daily physical workout (jogging, hiking, cycling, gym, etc) prior to a couple of weeks. We recommend you to undertake Mera and Island Peak only if you have undertaken other smaller peaks of the same region. Here is the list of the activities that must be done compulsorily before attempting any peak climbing in Nepal:

Go for a run or hike to hills where you have to do ascents and descents.

Once a week, do a long walk.

Swim and cycle.

You can also go up and down the stairs of a tall building.

Eat healthy food.

Keep on doing. If you can, do more yoga related to breathing.

Mera and Island Peak (2 Peaks) Climbing Gears and Equipments

Mera and Island peak are the most popular mountain peaks of the Everest region. Island Peak is a difficult ascent in comparison to the Mera Peak. Therefore, you need to have many technical gears for the successful climb. Here is the list of the must to include equipments.

Climbing Helmet: Choose a good quality climbing helmet. Make sure your warm cap fits under your helmet.

Choose a good quality climbing helmet. Make sure your warm cap fits under your helmet. Climbing Boots: High altitude, Insulated stiff-soled climbing boots.

High altitude, Insulated stiff-soled climbing boots. Crampons: C2 crampons that fit the climbing boots.

C2 crampons that fit the climbing boots. Climbing Harness: Good quality climbing harness.

Good quality climbing harness. Ascending device or Jumar

Descending or belay device

Tape sling: UIAA tested 220cm open tape sling or 2 x 120 cm closed tape sling

UIAA tested 220cm open tape sling or 2 x 120 cm closed tape sling Carabiners: 2 x lockable carabiners. 2 x non-locking carabiners

2 x lockable carabiners. 2 x non-locking carabiners Prusik loop: Best quality prusik loop

Best quality prusik loop Ice axe: An ice axe with a wrist strap for climbing

Permit and Cost for Mera and Island Peak (2 Peaks) Climbing

The overall cost for Mera and Island Peak climbing ranges between USD 4500 to USD 5000. You need a climbing permit to climb Mera and Island Peak Climbing. You will need local area permit as well as climbing permits. The permit is also required to enter the Sagarmatha National Park. En -route, there are regular security checkpoints. You must show your permits to pass through them. Basically, you must have the following permits for Island Peak climbing:

Local (Everest Region) Area Permit: NRS. 2000 (US $20)

Island Peak climbing permit cost according to the four seasons:

March, April, and May: US $250

June, July, and August: US $70

September, October, and November: US $125

December, January, and February: US $70

Accommodations during Mera and Island Peak (2 Peaks) Climbing

At a reasonable Mera and Island Peak Climbing Cost, sophisticated hotels and resorts from normal tourist standard category to five-star categories are available in Kathmandu for your accommodation, where you can choose your suitable one. During the entire trekking (apart from the climbing period of these two mountain peaks) there is availability of tea house/lodges. And during the climbing period for a couple of days, we need to set up tent camp for our accommodations. So we will provide all tea house accommodation at available places and camping accommodation at the places where tea house/lodges are not available. Accommodation can be Single, Double, Triple or twin sharing basis as per your requirement.

Meals during Mera and Island Peak (2 Peaks) Climbing

Mera and Island Peak Climbing Expeditions are inclusive for all meals (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner) including the entire trekking and climbing period, apart from the BB plan during the stay in Kathmandu. We will have Dinner and Breakfast in the same teahouse/Camp where we spent overnight and Lunch will be en-route of trekking towards next destination since we have to leave our accommodation after breakfast to continue the trek. You can enjoy the taste of varieties of cuisines; Nepali food, Tibetan, Continental, Indian, Italian etc by choosing in the menu. During the camping period, while we are in Base Camp and High Camp, our kitchen team will prepare hygienic foods to serve you. There might not be several choices of foods during the camp as in the tea houses and restaurants; you have to understand that our crew have to carry all camping gears and kitchen equipments from available places but we are sure we will provide as much services and facilities as we can do to make your adventure holiday awesome.

Altitude Sickness

Altitude sickness is the effect of oxygen deficiency in the blood and tissues at the high altitude. It is the negative health effect of high altitude due to the rapid exposure to low amount of oxygen at high elevation. The common symptoms of Altitude sickness include headaches, vomiting, tiredness, trouble sleeping and dizziness.

Altitude Sickness generally referred as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) occurs only above 2500m. The main reason of altitude sickness is rapid ascent and decreasing amount of oxygen at the high altitude. There are mainly three types of altitude sickness: Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema.

Altitude Sickness can become a medical emergency if ignored. The best way to prevent altitude sickness is to travel to high altitude slowly. It normally doesn’t take long for your body to adjust into a changed altitude. At the higher altitudes, the air pressure and oxygen level is comparatively lower. Our body takes time to adjust to such change. We suggest you to keep you hydrated, not to smoke or drink alcoholic substance, eat hygienic food, sleep low, take it easy, use Diamox tablets etc. to prevent yourself from Altitude Sickness.

Is Nepal Safe?

No doubt, Nepal is safe for trekking, hiking and mountaineering. The trekking trails are improvised and maintained as well. In many technical sections, ropes have been fixed.

The stains of the devastating earthquake have also been healing up and the decade long armed insurgency has also come to an end along with the implementation of the new constitution.

Tourist Help Desk and Tourism Information Centre have been established at the prominent tourist destinations. Moreover, you will receive a respectable welcome everywhere you go. The Nepali people are simple and kind to you and pay a wonderful hostage to you.

Don’t worry; Nepal is a safe country to visit.

Tips for Mera and Island Peak (2 Peaks) Climbing

Be prepared well.

Pack sufficient, don’t include unessential, and don’t miss the basics.

Be ready to cope up with the unfamiliar weather pattern and respect the weather

Choose the easier route: simply the one from South Col.

Be aware of the altitude sickness

Quickly pass the Khumbu Icefall and other treacherous areas

Keep sufficient spare oxygen cylinders

Use ropes

Drink Plenty

Be familiar with your gears and alpine, medicines

Final Say

Mera and Island Peak Climbing is one of the most significant and straightforward trekking in the Everest region. They are the most sought after peaks of the region as well. The combination of the two comes among the most difficult and challenging climb. As we have already described above, climbing the Mera and Island Peak requires a lot of trainings and mental stamina as well as good collection of climbing gears and equipments. Therefore, we would like to request anyone hoping to ascent these two peaks to be fully prepared first. If you want any help from us, we are ready for your service.

Contact Nepal Guide Treks and Expedition for further help.