Delicious, cheap and just a bit hard to digest: that’s patates braves, our genuine patates braves. In addition to being one of the most common tapas in Catalonia, they are also a fine representative of our traditional cuisine. They’re an extremely cheap dish – some used to call it poor-man’s potatoes – but suddenly, some years ago, fried potatoes with spicy sauce started invading all our bars and some restaurants.

What is the origin of patates braves?

The origin of the tapa seems to be found in Madrid. They appear in the archives from the 1960s: some bars began to serve them and clients queued just to taste them. So, given the success and simplicity of the concoction, they soon spread all over Spain, until today when no bar dares to omit them. But just like all food, there are good patates braves and horrible versions.

What is the original sauce on patates braves?

Basically, there are two kinds of sauce for patates braves. The first one, the original one used in Madrid bars in the 1960s, is a spicy red sauce, usually made with tomato and cayenne pepper. Since it was too hot, some people added mayonnaise to make it more palatable, allow the sauce to adhere to the potato better and take it away from the poor-man’s potato. But just like everything in life, the recipe started travelling, and when it reached Catalonia it changed. Here, the patates braves sauce is made with a powerful aioli topped by a spicy oil made of chili and spicy red pepper (some use spicy chorizo). So while in the Madrid style red sauce is the star, here in Catalonia aioli is.

What should the potatoes be like?

The potatoes spark yet another debate. Even though they were originally served in large, irregular chunks, some people leave on the skin, some cut them like traditional chips, and some even cut them into thin slices. There is even a version in which the potatoes aren’t fried, they’re just boiled, and some fine restaurants have made their own version in incredible shapes. In short, we’ll try to make a ranking in Part II of this article next week, but it’s hard given the two concurrent currents. We suggest a binding referendum which asks “Catalan style or Madrid style patates braves?”. I guess since it’s just a minor issue this referendum wouldn’t be banned… or maybe it would.

In this first part of our “Patates Braves tour” around Barcelona, we were able to sample some of the best patates braves in town, according to our sources.

Fàbrica Moritz

Even though they may not deserve to be in the most select part of the rankings, at Fàbrica Moritz they make a nod to the history of the dish by making a “Madrid style” version with the original sauce, and another “Barcelona style” version, with the regulation aioli. We recommend that the more discerning patates braves fans rise to the experience head on, with a face off to get a good foundation and better evaluate the patates braves experience in Barcelona.

Segons Mercat

A little glass of beer to accompany us at our first stop. We sample the delicious potatoes in the Barcelona or aioli style at Segons Mercat, which come with a powerful, garlicky aioli combined with a subtle spicy oil that just barely reddens the sauce.

Fragments Cafè

The patates braves at Fragments Cafè in Sants are in the same vein, but the potatoes are a bit flourier and the aioli milder. However, the spicy oil is more noticeable and pools at the base of the tapa.

Senyor Vermut

After a long wait –it’s packed on Sundays– we were finally able to try the delicious patates braves at Senyor Vermut in the Eixample. Powerful aioli, but especially a very spicy sauce over them, decorated and blended with a few strips of friend green pepper on top. A beer or vermouth is essential to sooth the delightful burn.

Bodega Montferry

The patates braves at Bodega Montferry in Sants are in the Madrid style and have tons of personality. They’re cut like your typical chips but a bit thicker, and the skin is left on. They come with a dry, reddish tomato sauce that is moderately spicy and a few sprigs of rosemary on top given them a highly personal touch. Delightfully rustic!

Montesquieu

Finally, we tasted the mythical patates braves at Montesquieu in Sant Gervasi. Cut into slices, very crispy and covered in an orangey sauce based on spicy red pepper, tons of pepper and a few other secret ingredients it’s impossible to wrest from them, it all results in a delicious liquid that spreads impeccably around all the potatoes. It is a more refined version of this tapa that has legions of fans in Barcelona.

So what kind of patates braves do you prefer: the “Barcelona style” or the “Madrid style”? No need to answer yet… Next week we’ll be back with more Barcelona mainstays: Tomás, La Esquinica, Bar del Pla... We’ll cover all of them! And you can’t miss our ranking of the best patates braves in the city!