As we are increasingly made aware of the threats of the climate crisis, if you are going to eat meat, never was there more of a case to eat every part of the animal.

Liver is the most accessible of the offal family: sweet, succulent, rich in iron and other minerals and, with the exception of calves’ liver, inexpensive.

Today’s recipe is a celebration of summery, southern Mediterranean flavours that beautifully complement the liver.

Sautéed chicken livers on toast with sweet peppers, black olives and toasted pine nuts

A crisp green salad is the perfect addition to this, either as a lunchtime snack or a dinner-party starter.

Prep 20 min

Cook 30 min

Serves 4

400g chicken livers

6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve

1 yellow pepper, deseeded and cut into thin strips

2 red peppers, deseeded and cut into thin strips

3 garlic cloves, peeled, 2 finely sliced, and 1 halved

4 anchovies, chopped

2 tbsp small capers

2 tbsp pine nuts

12 kalamata black olives, stoned and halved

Salt and black pepper

4 slices sourdough

4 tbsp red-wine vinegar

1 tsp caster sugar

1 handful parsley, roughly chopped

Trim the chicken livers of gristle. Heat two tablespoons of oil in a large frying pan over a medium-high heat, then stir-fry the peppers until they begin to soften and colour – eight to 10 minutes. Add the sliced garlic, turn the heat to medium, cook for another two minutes until softened, then stir in the anchovies, capers, pine nuts and olives. Gently fry for another four minutes to allow the flavours to mingle. Once the peppers are soft, scrape into a bowl and set aside.

Wipe out the pan and return it to a high heat. Once smoking hot, add another tablespoon of oil. Season the livers with salt and pepper, and add half to the pan so as not to overcrowd it. Cook for one or two minutes on each side, until golden but still bouncy (the middle should be pink), then scoop out into the pepper bowl. Repeat with the remaining livers, adding another tablespoon of oil. Once cooked, return the set-aside peppers and livers to the pan, turn the heat to medium, and stir in the vinegar and sugar, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to gather all the cooking juices. Meanwhile, put the sourdough on to toast. After a minute or two, add the final two tablespoons of oil to the livers to make a beautifully glossy sauce. Turn off the heat, taste and season with a touch more salt, sugar or a splash more vinegar to balance the flavours. Halve or slice any larger pieces of liver.

Rub the toast with the cut sides of the halved garlic clove. Stir the parsley into the livers, then pile on to the toasts and serve immediately with a final flourish of oil.

And for the rest of the week

Serve on crostini as canapes at a summer party. Or, if you are avoiding gluten, accompany with rice. The livers and peppers look fantastic with Camargue red rice and make an inexpensive, delicious main course that’s perfect if you are entertaining.