When most Americans hear about sunny European isles, they imagine yacht parking for movie stars and offshore accounts kept by Russian oligarchs. But among the wine-erati, balmy European islands are glamorous for a different reason: Because of their relative isolation, they've harbored fantastic winemaking traditions that have only recently come to international notice. Whether it's nero d'Avola from Sicily, assyrtiko from Santorini or rosé from Corsica, there's something sexy about the idea of vines surrounded by water, cut off from the rest of the world. Until now.

This spring, the wine buzz is all about the islands off Spain. Mallorca is the largest of the Balearic Islands in the Mediterranean and boasts a rich history (Romans, Vandals, Moors and such), white-sand beaches and thriving tourism. And though the Romans planted vines eons ago, a contemporary wine industry has been thriving there since the mid-1990s.

The best producers are blending traditional grapes such as manto negro and callet with international varieties like monastrell (mourvèdre), merlot, syrah and cabernet sauvignon. For an example of this style, check out the meaty

2009 Myotragus Vi de la Terra Mallorca ($26)

. Rich notes of candied cherries, ripe red berries, violets and chocolate are balanced by a uniquely Mallorcan undercurrent of dried seaweed; one sip will make you want to run out to the coast and barbecue something. (Important note for dinner conversation: The animal on the label is the myotragus, or mouse goat, an ancient breed that was about the size of a whippet.)

For something a little lighter and quirkier, seek out the

2009 Ca Sa Padrina Binissalem-Mallorca Arrel ($18)

, a seriously old-school wine that's mostly made from the indigenous grape manto negro. It's an enjoyable oddity: gravelly and salty, with notes of raisins and black licorice, accented by hints of the wild herbs that the Mallorcans use in their Herbes de Mallorca liqueur: anise (fennel), juniper, mint, lemon balm, rosemary and myrtle, to name a few. It's delicious with a hearty dinner salad.

Some 1,600 miles to the southwest of Mallorca are the Canary Islands, just off the coasts of Morocco and Western Sahara. This freakishly gorgeous subtropical archipelago is surprisingly temperate, allowing for a form of viticulture that's unlike anything you've seen. Picture, if you can, grape-carting camels, black volcanic soil and vines growing out of saucer-shaped holes lined with rock-wall rims.

The wines rarely make it off the island, even to mainland Spain. Fortunately for us, American importer José Pastor has persuaded a few Canary Islands wineries to send their products stateside. One of my favorites is the

2011 Bermejo Lanzarote Rosado ($28)

, from Lanzarote, the isle closest to Africa. Now, $28 might sound a bit steep for a rosé, even one in a beautiful curved bottle like this one. But when you consider the growing environment -- porous soil, epic winds and no rain to speak of -- the price starts to look much more reasonable. Each vine grows in its own hoyo, or dug-out bowl, a protected microclimate where the plant can survive off dew and avoid having its leaves ripped off by maritime gusts. This seashell-pink wine is made from the indigenous listán negro grape; aromatic, fruity and spicy, it hits the palate like a mouthful of seawater, screaming to be paired with grilled shrimp or scallops.

The

2010 Tajinaste Valle de La Orotava Tenerife Tinto Traditional ($25.50)

hails from Tenerife, the largest of the Canary Islands. Also made from listán negro, this summertime red is sleek and spicy, with juicy notes of berry and blood orange derived from a winemaking technique called carbonic maceration. And lest you surmise that the hoyos on Lanzarote might be the world's most labor-intensive form of viticulture, on Tenerife the vines are laid out in backbreaking braids on the ground.

You know you have a good wine if it makes you hungry. That's the effect of the

2009 Monje "Tradicional" Tacoronte -- Acentejo Tinto ($22.50)

, from the oldest continually operating winery on the island of Tenerife. Savory and subtle, with notes of dried red cherries and savory roasted herbs on the finish, this lean and exciting red is mostly listán negro, with a tiny bit of listán blanco (the white grape also known as palomino) in the mix to keep things interesting. It would kill with Cuban food, or, if you prefer, Canary Islands cuisine, which blends Spanish and North African influences.

As the weather warms up, I'm willing to bet we'll be seeing more Spanish island wines on restaurant lists. For now, you can look for Canary Island wines at

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