Verona Restaurant is one of those proverbial gems, a first-rate traditional Italian restaurant in an unremarkable setting. Here, at the end of a strip mall that houses a Subway sandwich shop and a dry cleaner, ordinary dishes like eggplant rollatini and fried zucchini dominate. Prepared with skill and flair, they remind you why these standard items are beloved by so many diners.

Another reason to visit this sleepy corner of Randolph: the moderate prices. Sebastian Lamaj, the Albania-born owner, whose parents both have doctorates in mathematics, majored in economics at Rutgers. Not surprisingly, he is conscious of value. “I’m not looking to lessen the portions and raise prices,” he said on the telephone after my visits.

The interior of Verona, which opened in 2011, is another surprise. The tables are set with linen; the glassware sparkles. Hosts and servers take their roles seriously. One night I watched a server patiently help two elderly diners into their coats.

Image Offerings include linguine Verona with applewood smoked bacon, wild mushrooms, spinach, diced tomato and goat cheese. Credit... Alex di Suvero for The New York Times

The grace and efficiency with which the restaurant is managed is more remarkable considering that Mr. Lamaj is only 30. After working at Bank of America for five years, he returned to the restaurant industry, where he began busing tables at age 15. “Restaurants appeal to the more creative part of me,” he said.