CANYON DE CHELLY, Ariz. — A sliver moon dangled overhead. Cedar and pinyon logs had burned to embers in the desert chill, blue corn mush had been spooned out and a Navajo medicine man had waved an eagle feather fan and offered blessings to the dawn.

About 150 runners began to slog through miles of sand toward the darkened mouth of the canyon. Here and there, and then as one, they raised their arms and loosened howls at the turquoise dawn.

“Wooo! Woooooooooo!”

Crows, startled, careened across a cloudless sky.

The Canyon de Chelly Ultra, a 34-mile-long trail race, had commenced, women and men running in beauty. I had driven hours across the mountains to see it.

The ultramarathon extends deep into Canyon de Chelly, the sacred heart of Navajo. Runners will pass the rock formations known as Sleeping Duck and Speaking Rock and the towering red sandstone obelisk that is home to Spider Woman, who Navajos believe wove the map of the universe.