Well-loved Harbin Hot Springs ravaged by Valley Fire; pools survive

The resort at Harbin Hot Springs was destroyed by the Valley Fire that burned through Middletown Saturday night. The resort at Harbin Hot Springs was destroyed by the Valley Fire that burned through Middletown Saturday night. Photo: Kurtis Alexander Photo: Kurtis Alexander Image 1 of / 45 Caption Close Well-loved Harbin Hot Springs ravaged by Valley Fire; pools survive 1 / 45 Back to Gallery

MIDDLETOWN, Lake County — Harbin Hot Springs, a tranquil New Age health resort in Middletown with clothing-optional communal soaking pools, was a favorite destination for those on a holistic pilgrimage to serene rural California. But the classic 19th century retreat was in much need of healing Monday after being leveled by the ferocious Valley Fire.

The degree of devastation at Harbin wasn’t immediately known after the 61,000-acre fire ripped through Middletown, Cobb and the rural areas around the expansive resort.

David Hamilton, a former resident of Harbin, returned Monday to view the damage. Though the pools were blackened with debris, Hamilton saw a glimmer of hope.

Video: A devastating sight at Lake County's Harbin Hot Springs

“We’re really blessed,” Hamilton said. “There’s no damage to the springs and pools. That’s the essence of what Harbin is.”

Firefighters blocked

Power poles and wires collapsed along Highway 109, blocking firefighters from getting into the area northeast of Middletown in time to save the resort, which was first developed in 1867 and destroyed by previous fires in 1894 and 1943.

A Chronicle reporter hiked half a mile past downed electrical lines early Monday to the once-luxurious campus of pools, meditation gardens, camping areas and fountains.

Virtually everything was gone.

The previously pristine spring-fed pools were a sludgy black and littered with fallen, charred tree limbs, melted rooftops and broken tiles. The water remained lukewarm from the natural hot springs nearby.

Dead fish floated upside down in the koi ponds on the once-terraced hillside, while several blackened stone Buddha statues gazed peacefully across the scorched landscape.

A stream coming from the hill above still trickled through the property. Piles of debris burned and smoldered across the demolished grounds.

A note on the Harbin Hot Springs website said it was a “miracle, and a testament to our staff and guests” that no one was killed.

“Our retreat center is one of the oldest hot springs of its kind in California, and it has risen from the ashes of fires in the past,” the retreat’s message reads. “Those who have visited Harbin know that it has always been much more than a collection of wooden structures. As a result, there has been an incredible outpouring of support for our community, and generous offers to help us rebuild.”

Harbin’s center is maintained and operated by more than 100 residents who share the duties of preserving the land as a healing retreat.

“This is an emotional time for us, and those who love this place,” the retreat’s message continued. “For now, we ask our friends to visualize one of their favorite ‘Harbin moments’ from a past retreat — a massage, workshop, meal, yoga class, hike, temple meditation or hot spring soak — and take a deep breath. Please know that we are confident that Harbin Hot Springs can move forward with your prayers, support, and encouragement.”

A previous loss

The loss of Harbin comes a year and a half after another beloved California hot springs and lodge was consumed by flames. The historic two-story lodge at Wilbur Hot Springs in rugged Colusa County was destroyed by a fire in March 2014. That fire, though, likely started in the kitchen of the rustic wooden structure, built in 1863 and remodeled in the 1970s. The lodge has since reopened.

Another popular vacation spot destroyed by the Valley Fire was Hoberg’s Resort. The large 19th century lodging, spa and popular wedding destination in Cobb burned along with nearly everything else in the town.

Kurtis Alexander and Evan Sernoffsky are San Francisco Chronicle staff writers. E-mail: kalexander@sfchronicle.com, esernoffsky@sfchronicle.com Twitter: @KurtisAlexander, @EvanSernoffsky