These bags, designed to fit a bicycle's rear rack, are just the thing for cycling storage. The profiled design reduces heel-strike, while the carrying handle allows for easy portability. The straps provide a bit extra carrying capacity; slip in a rolled up newspaper or magazine on your way to a favourite cafe.

WHAT YOU NEED

Download the pattern sheets here

1 yard of 44/45" laminated cotton, oilcloth, vinyl, or similar fabric

1 spool of coordinating thread

3 1/3 yards of 1"- to 1 1/2"-wide webbing

2/3 yard of 1"-wide double-faced Velcro or standard sew-on Velcro

4 parachute buckles of appropriate width to accommodate webbing

Reflective 3M stripe (optional)

Finished dimensions - each pannier bag is 11" high x 11" wide x 5" deep

Seam allowance - 1/2" unless otherwise specified

Design note: this bag is made without a lining because the two panniers take up the entire yard of fabric. A waterproof lining could be added if desired (if using a lightweight material).

WHAT TO DO

1. Lay out your fabric in a single layer with right side facing up. You might want to make copies of each pattern piece or trace around them because you are cutting multiple fabric pieces from each pattern. Position the patterns on the fabric according to the layout and cut them out. Transfer markings from the pattern pieces to the wrong side of the fabric. Measure and mark the bottom/handle piece.



Front (cut 2)

Back (cut 2)

Flap (cut 2)

Side (cut 4)

Bottom/handle

4" 8" (cut 3)

Note: position the grainline arrow on the pattern pieces along the straight grain of the fabric. Mirror the front, flap, and back along the line indicated on the pattern.

2. Attach the webbing and buckles to the front

• Cut four 4" pieces from the webbing. Thread one piece through the female half of a parachute buckle and fold it in half, aligning the ends. Baste the ends together. Repeat with the remaining pieces of webbing and parachute buckles.

• Pin two webbing/buckle pieces on the bottom raw edge of each front piece at the placement marks, aligning the raw edges. Edgestitch the webbing ends in place.

Illustration: Missy Shepler/Sew a metre

3. Assemble the back

• Pin the back pieces with the right sides together, and stitch across the top wide edge.

• The pannier will be attached to the bicycle with four double-faced Velcro straps. To custom-fit the straps to your bicycle, lay the back pieces across the rear carrier rack with the right side facing up and the seam centered on the rack. At least 2" from each side raw edge, feel for the rack below the fabric and mark where the centre of the four straps should be positioned. (When this piece is facedown later on, the loops will wrap around the side poles of the rack.)

• If you are using standard sew-on Velcro, create double-sided Velcro by placing the wrong sides of the hook and loop pieces together (hooks and loops facing away from each other), and stitch along the long edges.

• Cut the Velcro into four 6" pieces and mark a straight line across the centre of each.

• Centre the Velcro pieces on the placement marks and stitch along the centre line, leaving 3" straps on each side of the centre line loose, so they can be wrapped around the bicycle rack.

4. Make the handle

Fold the short ends of the handle 1/2" to the wrong side and press. With the wrong sides facing, press the handle in half lengthwise. Unfold, and then press both long raw edges 1" to the wrong side, toward the crease. Refold the handle in half lengthwise, press, and edgestitch all around.

5. Make the flaps

• Pin the flap pieces with the right sides together, and stitch across the top wide edge. Press seam allowance open. Fold all the raw edges of seamed flaps 1/2" to the wrong side and press. Topstitch to hem the flaps.

• Note: If the fabric is flexible and thin enough, you may choose to create a 1/2 " double-fold hem rather than the indicated 1/2" single-fold hem.

Illustration: Missy Shepler/Sew a Metre

6. Attach the webbing and handle to the flaps

• Cut the remaining webbing into two 1 1/2-yard pieces and mark a line across the centre of each piece. Pin the webbing pieces to the flaps so the marked (centre) lines of the webbing are positioned directly over the seam, and 2 1/2" from each hemmed edge. Stitch on the marked centre lines to attach each webbing piece to the flaps.

• Centre the handle, right side up, over the right side of the flap seam; the handle should extend 1/2" beyond the webbing pieces. Stitch the handle to the flaps along the short edges, just outside the webbing. Stitch again close to the first stitch line for added security.

7. Assemble the panniers

• Stitch two sides to each front with the right sides together, stopping 1/2" from each top and bottom corner.

• Stitch one bottom to each front with the right sides together, starting and stopping 1/2" from each bottom corner.

• Stitch the sides to each bottom with the right sides together, stopping 1/2" from each bottom corner.

• Stitch one back to each bottom with the right sides together, starting and stopping 1/2" from each bottom corner.

• Stitch the backs to the sides with the right sides together, starting and stopping 1/2" from each side corner.

• Turn the pannier set right side out.

• Fold the top raw edge of the panniers and the sides of the seamed back 1/2" or 1/4 " to the wrong side and press. Topstitch to hem.

Illustration: Missy Shepler/Sew a metre

8. Attach the flaps to the panniers

• Pin the flap to the pannier with the wrong sides together, aligning the centre seams and side edges. Edgestitch the flap to the back along the side edges, stopping short of the pannier bag openings.

• Keeping the webbing and Velcro straps pinned out of the way, mark stitch lines across each flap approximately 3 1/2" from the centre seam. Make sure the marked lines are below the Velcro straps (on the back) and above the pannier bodies. Topstitch the flaps to the back along the marked lines.

9. Complete the pannier webbing

• Run the webbing down each flap and stitch it in place at the bottom (hemmed) edge, 1 1/2" from each side edge.

• Secure the webbing to the flap at any desired points. The webbing on the sample shown is only stitched once, halfway between the top centre seam and bottom edge. You can instead tack it twice, breaking the webbing into thirds; or stitch it down the entire length of the flap. If the webbing is left unattached in segments, you can slide newspapers, maps, craft projects, or other items through for even more storage!

• Thread the flap webbing through the male half of the parachute buckle and trim it to the desired length, being sure to leave it long enough to accommodate a fully stuffed pannier. Hem the loose raw edge of webbing with a double-fold hem.