BUILT from the sand up just 42 years ago to become what is now Mexico’s No. 1 travel destination, Cancún will likely always conjure images of spring break debauchery. But the city’s 17-mile-long hotel-zone peninsula, home to most of its 150 hotels and the site of a $71 million shoreline expansion in 2010, draws everyone from middle-class families to jet-setters. The best place to feel the city’s true pulse, though, is in the other Cancún: downtown, in the tangle of mostly tourist-free squares, market stalls and shiny new developments offering their own destination-worthy nightspots, shops and restaurants. Cancún has thus far dodged the bullet of drug-cartel violence: Its home state, Quintana Roo, was one of only 14 to be spared a spot on the State Department’s most recent Mexico travel warning.

Friday

4:30 p.m.

1. EVERYBODY’S PROMENADE

Get a sense of perspective by strolling downtown’s Malecón Américas (Avenida Bonampak), a three-quarter-mile paved palm-lined promenade that hugs the shore of the Nichupte Lagoon, which separates this part of town from the hotel zone. It’s the newest addition to a development that includes Las Américas Cancun Mall across the street, where locals converge in Mexican chains like the Liverpool department store, and in surprisingly lovely outdoor atriums outfitted with kiddie diversions including a festive carousel. Pop in for a true taste of Cancún living.

6 p.m.

2. GONE THE SUN

Sunset watching takes some planning here, as the magic happens lagoonside in the hotel zone, not at the beach. Snag a coveted table at La Habichuela Sunset (Kukulcán Boulevard; kilometer 12.6, 52-998-840-6280; lahabichuela.com), the new outpost of the family-owned downtown favorite, La Habichuela. Whether indoors in the sweeping, high-ceilinged, Mayan-themed dining room with its west-facing wall of glass, or outside on a stone patio leading right up to the lapping waters, you’ll have a perfect view. Draw out the afterglow with a mixed seafood ceviche for 145 pesos, or about $11 at 12.8 pesos to the dollar, and a Golden Margarita, 160 pesos, made with 1800 gold tequila and Grand Marnier.

8:30 p.m.

3. PASTA AND AFTER

Join in-the-know locals at the festive, quirky Cheester for creative and reasonably priced pizzas and pastas; options include the thin-crusted, salmon-topped pie, for 150 pesos, and, for 120 pesos, the Mama Mia, a pan of linguine, big enough for two, tossed in a cilantro cream sauce. A new location (Las Plazas Outlet; 52-998-880-8080) has sunny yellow walls and tables topped with red-and-white-checked oilcloths, while the original spot (Calle Mazatlàn; 52-998-887-8786) has outdoor seating and graffiti-covered walls. After carb loading, walk around the recently remodeled Parque de las Palapas, the social square of downtown that jumps to life nightly. Go for the live music, arts-and-crafts tables for little ones, food vendors (don’t miss the marquesitas, crispy crepes filled with sweetened Edam cheese then rolled up tight) and an infectious happy mood.