> Fuel Tank



> Power steering fluid

> Brake/Clutch fluid

> Coolant



IHeartGroceries on 4/13/2012 said: Just got off the phone with the Ford house.

Their Mazda equivalent fluid is now identified as VC10A2.

It was priced 27.59/gal... Click to expand...

> Engine:

> Tranny:



GL-4

> PTO & Rear Diff:



GL-5

(SVG)

What's the deal with this GL-4 vs GL-5 business anyway?

>DIY Pics:

>Helpful Hints:

Squeaky clutch or shifter?

lapisbluinhou said:



What is the recommended lube for this guy and is it applied directly on the part?



FORZDA 1 said: The best grease I have found for underhood type stuff in the green "waterproof" grease from Advance auto. Can't think of the name right now, but you will know it when you see it. The shifter mechanism must be cleaned out real good with paper towels before adding lube. You lube it by "squishing" a blob of grease into and through the openings and wiping off the excess. Click to expand...





This guy is starting to make an awful noise when I press in the clutch. Not sure if he needs to be lubed or replaced.



FORZDA 1 said: The clutch slave cylinder push rod squeaks where it contacts the release arm. Just push a bit of the green grease into the contact area and it will be fine. Click to expand... What is the recommended lube for this guy and is it applied directly on the part?This guy is starting to make an awful noise when I press in the clutch. Not sure if he needs to be lubed or replaced. Click to expand...

> Post-transplant start-up options

(whoosh @ Apr 8 2009, 05:50 AM)

install the turbo and connect all lines (oil and coolant)

unplug the coil packs / just the connectors

turn the car over for about 10-15 seconds

obviously it will not start and thats the point to get oil running through the turbo

sit a minute and do the 10-15 seconds again

connect the coil packs and start it up



don't worry about the coolant

after your car is running and you are sure there are no leaks

let it cool a bit and add coolant until it's at the required level Click to expand...

ungrave said: I wanted to add that the crank/no start procedure from whoosh is a good idea but not the best way of going about it. Reason being is that with that procedure you are removing the spark but the engine is still injecting fuel into the combustion chamber.



A much better and easier way of doing this (and what I do on initial start up after each oil change) is to simply pull the fuel injector fuse.



Open the fuse box under the hood next to the air filter. Pull the fuel injector fuse, I believe it's labeled 'FUEL INJ'. Fuses are labeled under the fuse box cover. It should be the fuse near the corner of the fuse box by the MAF. Crank the engine till the oil light goes off, then put the fuse back in. Then crank it again and it'll start right up with instant oil pressure! Click to expand...

Notes on fluids & associated part information for the MS6Please do post corrections or suggestions-I'll integrate to this post as appropriateThis was mostly copied & pasted from dozens of posts,or taken from the '06 MS6 owners manual-notes gathered mostly just to make my life easier.based on US dollars, quarts or gallons=============================================- 15.9 us gal- ATF M-III, M-V, or equivalent (e.g. Dexron® II)dry fill- 1 quart- SAE J1703, or FMVSS116 DOT-3system flush- 1 liter- 8.5 us qts (2.25 us gallons)Type- Mazda FL22Mazda OEM - part# 0000-77-508E-20Ford Specialty Green Coolant - Motorcraft part # VC-10-A or VC-10-A2 - $27.59 gallon 50/50 mixZerex Asian Vehicle Coolant - NAPA Part # ZRX 675130 - $13.99 gallon of 50/50 mixget 2 gallons and top off with distilled waterIt seems thatMazda has coolant called "FL22"Some clarity, compliments of the BobIsTheOilGuy forums, and a poster named ponderosaTX "...Mazda automotive coolants are green but they have almost NOTHING in common with conventional North American green coolant. Prior to the 2005 model year, Mazdas were equipped with a first generation P-OAT (phosphated organic acid technology) coolant developed and manufactured by CCI, the leading Japanese coolant company. P-OAT coolants rely on a combination of phosphates and organic acids to prevent corrosion; they contain no silicates or borates. In the 2005 model year, Mazda started using a second generation P-OAT coolant which has a lower concentration of phosphates and an improved organic acid additive package. The other major Japanese auto manufacturers, namely Toyota, Honda, and Nissan all use essentially the same coolant technology.The only aftermarket P-OAT coolants are Japanese OEM coolants from Mazda, Toyota, Honda, and Nissan, Zerex Asian Vehicle coolant, and Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine Coolant (which reportedly is identical to the second generation Mazda FL22 OEM P-OAT coolant). For the record, Ford started using Japanese P-OAT coolant technology in many of its 2009 models (those sharing engine technology with Mazda) instead of G-05. Ford evidently found the performance of Japanese P-OAT coolants was superior to G-05 in Mazda engineered engines.Using conventional North American green coolant in a Mazda is a bad idea. Even German (BASF) coolant technology as embodied in G-05, which contains silicates and no phosphates, is a much better choice than conventional North American green for vehicles with aluminum blocks and aluminum radiators. But a genuine P-OAT coolant, particularly a second generation P-OAT coolant like Mazda FL22 or Motorcraft Specialty Green, is the best choice."It now looks like Ford Specialty Green Coolant may be the cost-effective alternative to Mazda FL22. Zerex Asian Vehicle Coolant is another option.5.5 - 6 qts7 quarts with Balance Shaft removed- 5W-30Oil Filter - cartridge styleOil Filter Part Numbers:FL-2017B - Motorcraft/Ford OEM cartridge oil filterL321-14-302-9U - Mazda OEM cartridge oil filter7203 - Napa Gold cartridge oil filter (made by Wix)57203 - Wix cartridge oil filterL15505 Purolator Premium Plus cartridge oil filterPL15505 Purolator Pure One cartridge oil filterGL15505 O'Reilly's/Microgard cartridge oil filterP7313 - Baldwin cartridge oil filterHP-7013 - K&N cartridge oil filter (made by Champion Labs)84203 - Carquest cartridge oil filter (made by Wix)LF594 - Hastings cartridge oil filterCH9641 - Fram cartridge oil filterP960 - Champ cartridge oil filter (Champion Labs, makes oil filters for other companies)S9641 - STP cartridge oil filter (made by Champion Labs)M1C153 - Mobil1 cartridge oil filterOil Filter Wrench - 76mm/14 flutesEngine Oil Crush Washer - Mazda OEM - part# 9956-41-400Drain Bolt torque specs - 23-30 ft-lbs- API Service(SAE 75W-90)3 qts - GL-42.5 us qts actual fillSynthetic Manual Transmission and TransaxleGear Lube 75W-90 API GL-4 (MTG)MT-90 (75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil)Ford Manual Transaxle fluid # XT-M5-QS (75W-90 GL-4 Gear Oil)Transmission Crush Washer - Mazda OEM - part# A601-17-117Drain and Fill Bolt torque specs - 20.2-37.5 ft-lbs- API Service(SAE 80W-90)3qts - GL-5- pto - 1.3 us qts actual fill- r.diff - 1.1 us qts actual fillSEVERE GEAR® Synthetic Extreme Pressure (EP) Lubricant 75W-90Long Life Synthetic Gear Lube SAE 75W-90 (FGR)75W-90 (75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil)PTO Crush Washer - Mazda OEM - part# 9956-21-800Rear Diff Crush Washer - Mazda OEM - part# 9956-41-800Drain and Fill Bolt torque specs - Transfer case: 29.0-43.3 ft-lbs........................................... Rear differential: 29.0-39.7 ft-lbsYou can go here and form your own opinion:Even more reading on the subject- clicky-clicky In theory, and in the print of many GL-5 containers, and many parts counter guys will say GL-5 superseded GL-4 and is suitable for all GL-4 or GL-5 locations.That said, many, including my Amsoil Rep and the Bobistheoilguy forums will tell you different. My Mazda manual also clearly states 4 for the tranny, 5 in the remainder.GL-5 contains sulfur compounds known to not be healthy to yellow metals such as brass (read: your synchros). GL-4 has a substantially lower quantity of sulfur than GL-5, which instead uses chemicals to try & lessen the impact on gold metals.My manual calls for GL-4My Amsoil Rep is is vehement on this as well!Trans:Transfer Case/PTO:Read Diff:the plugs are all either 23 or 24mmdrain & fill bolt torque specs from the FSM:- Engine: 23-30 ft-lbs- Transmission: 20.2-37.5 ft-lbs- Transfer case: 29.0-43.3 ft-lbs- Rear differential: 29.0-39.7 ft-lbscrush washer part numbers:- Trans oil plug washer - A601-17-117- T-case oil plug washer - 9956-21-800- Diff oil plug washer - 9956-41-800