If you were taught, like I was, to press a horizontal bust dart down, try this alternative. For this technique, the size of the bust cup determines in which direction the pressing should be done.

Option 1: If the bust is a size ‘A’ or ‘B’ cup, the dart is pressed down and over a ham, in the usual manner.

Option 2: However, if the bust cup size is a ‘C’ or ‘D’ cup or larger, the dart is pressed up, also over a ham, to mimic the curvature of the body.

The reasoning is: Pressing the dart’s two extra fabric layers down can add to the size of the bust. Pressing the dart up in the larger bust sizes gives the illusion of lift to the bust and eliminates the extra thickness of the fabric layers under the bust.

Here is option 1 after the dart has been pressed.

And here is option 2.

How were you taught to press bust darts? What do you think of this bust dart pressing technique? If you have additional tips, please share them below.

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