× Expand Photo courtesy of Pokéworks. An assortment of poke bowls and a poke burrito from Pokéworks.

Pokéworks

122 West Main Street, Durham

919-973-3372; pokeworks.com

The ever-increasing popularity of poke (pronounced po-kay), a Hawaiian dish of marinated and diced raw fish or seafood often served over rice, has spawned the creation of lots of build-your-own-bowl restaurants across the country, and the Triangle is no exception. Two years ago, only a smattering of niche restaurants were offering interpretations of the dish on their menus; today, there are at least five dedicated poke restaurants in the area.

In November, national chain Pokéworks entered the fray with a location in downtown Durham’s new One City Center, the chain’s first North Carolina outpost. Super-fresh fish is a prerequisite for any poke place, and Pokéworks delivers on that front; but it takes its “Poke Your Way” tagline literally, with an endless number of build-your-own combinations that includes kale noodles as a base option (in addition to grains), unlimited sauces and toppings, plus chicken, tofu, and cooked seafood for the raw fish-averse. The choices can be dizzying, but there are stellar signature bowls on offer, too.

Vibe: Through the double doors on Main Street, Pokéworks’ cheery energy is on full display, with yellow neon signage, bright accents in the brand’s signature orange, and an assortment of succulents and greenery. The Chipotle-style assembly counter and large, wall-mounted menus line the back wall; a friendly and efficient staff offers guidance while keeping the line moving. Your whole office crew could sit comfortably at a long high-top table, whereas the window-facing counter seats are prime real estate for solo diners or people-watching. The place hums through lunch, so order ahead online if you’re in a rush.

Menu: There are three base options: poke salad (romaine and spring mix); poke burrito (sushi rice and seaweed wrap); and poke bowl (kale noodles, sushi rice, brown rice, or quinoa). From there, the build-your-own combinations are myriad. Choose your protein—there’s chicken, tofu, and cooked seafood in addition to raw ahi tuna, albacore tuna, and salmon—then mix-ins, such as seaweed, cucumbers, or edamame. Add in “flavor,” including signature sauces or seasonings (think: sweet chili gochujang), then pick your toppings. Unlimited freebies include items such as seaweed salad or pickled ginger, while premium toppings, such as avocado or wasabi tobiko, are available for an upcharge. Finish off your creation with “crunches” such as garlic crisps, toasted rice puffs, or shredded nori.

Feeling overwhelmed? Pokéworks also offers eight signature dishes, such as the Hawaiian Classic, an ahi tuna bowl dressed with green onions, sesame oil, and Hawaiian salt, and the Shiso Salmon, which deploys fresh shiso leaves and ponzu sauce to bring a citrusy, herbaceous bite.

Sides are limited but include novelties such as spam musubi, a nod to Hawaii’s beloved snack of grilled Spam atop rice wrapped in nori. Tractor-brand organic sodas anchor the drink menu (try the mandarin cardamom).

What to order: The poke bowl is the best option for novices and is an ideal way to experience Pokéworks, particularly since this format allows you to split the base between both tender kale noodles (a protein-packed pasta that incorporates the flavor and color of its principal ingredient) and a grain (opt for the warm sushi rice). All the brightly colored raw fish is delivered daily on weekdays, but the more classic marinated cuts, such as ahi tuna and salmon, are crowd pleasers. In the mix-in stage, equally colorful toppings such as yellow mango and orange slices beckon, but the purple-hued ogo seaweed, which has a nice bite and mild salinity, is a standout.

Take advantage of the unlimited flavors, mix-ins, and crunches to customize your bowl. Among the sauces, the Pokéworks Classic, a ginger sesame vinaigrette, layered with its “spicy ginger” and “umami shoyu,” adds a balanced depth of sweet and tangy flavor, while aioli blends, bolstered with Siracha or wasabi, bring a touch of spice. It’s tempting to go overboard with the crunchy toppings, but don’t miss the stately floral-shaped lotus chips, which eat like a slightly sweet potato chip and add extra flair to an already supremely Instagrammable dish.

Price: Bowls are $10.95–$13.50. Premium toppings, such as avocado and wasabi tobiko, are $2 or less. Sides range from $2.50 to $3.95. Drinks are $2.50.

Perfect for: Workday lunch dates; a grab-and-go option downtown; poke aficionados and novices alike.