We expect a lot from SIHH. We look forward to the new movements, inventive designs, the good, the bad and the ugly the watch world has to offer. We didn’t anticipate this though. The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar isn’t just miraculous as a phenomenally contemporary timepiece from the world’s oldest watchmaker; it’s a genuinely ground-breaking innovation.

For a bit of background as to why the Twin Beat is important, the higher the frequency of a movement – i.e. the more often it counts intervals of time – the more accurate it is. The only problem is that doing so requires more energy and thus eats into the power reserve. It’s a compromise, one that means you either sacrifice accuracy on the wrist or how long it can last.

The Twin Beat system helps limit that compromise. When in Active mode, which runs off a 5Hz balance, the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar maintains an impressive 36,000 vibrations per hours, more accurate than most watches. Even Seiko’s phenomenal hi-beat is just 2k higher. However, when set aside and put in Standby mode (which runs off a 1.2Hz balance), the frequency drops, extending the power reserve to its full 65 days.

Speaking of Seiko, Japan is in fact the inspiration for the Twin Beat – specifically the double balance clocks of the Edo period. Essentially, the Twin Beat switches to another balance at a far, far lower frequency of 8,640 vph. That one change increases its power reserve from 4 days to 65 days. That is a world of difference and any power reserve of 65 days is ground-breaking.

That’s all the more impressive given everything the watch displays. It’s an intensely modern perpetual calendar complete with a power reserve indicator and, because of its talking point, a frequency indicator.

Granted there’s a lot going on with the open-worked nature of the dial, a lost more than Vacheron’s more classical timepieces, but that leans nicely into its technical nature. This is a patent-pending movement so you can forgive the watchmaker for wanting to emphasise its mechanical plus points rather than relying on their unsurpassed finishing along.

Despite the new movement, the watch itself is actually classical in proportions. The platinum case is an accessible 42mm wide – and just 6mm thick – yet thanks to red indexes against anthracite us still easy to read.

Last year Vacheron showcased that they too could make an accessible luxury timepiece with the FiftySix; this year the world’s oldest (continually operating) watchmaker has gone the other way, flexing their watchmaking muscles for an inspired, genuinely ground-breaking movement. We can’t wait to get it on our collective wrist.

Price & Specs:

Model Name: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar

Ref: 3200T/000P-B578 Dial/Case: 42mm diameter x 12.3mm thickness, 950 platinum case Movement: 3610 QP, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, mechanical, manual-winding Functions: Hours, minutes, instantaneous perpetual calendar, power reserve, frequency mode

Water Resistance: 3 bar (approx. 30m)

Frequency: Active mode – 5Hz frequency, standby mode – 1.2Hz frequency Power Reserve: Active mode – 4 days, standby mode – approximately 65 days of power reserve Price & Availability: $199,000



Discover more at Vacheron Constantin’s website.