Burning Man comes and goes, but you can feel the Burn all the time in Reno

Inside The Generator, in Sparks, NV, sculpture artist Josh Vaile describes the construction process on a piece he's working on for the 2018 Burning Man. Inside The Generator, in Sparks, NV, sculpture artist Josh Vaile describes the construction process on a piece he's working on for the 2018 Burning Man. Photo: Harriot Manley / Special To The Chronicle Photo: Harriot Manley / Special To The Chronicle Image 1 of / 9 Caption Close Burning Man comes and goes, but you can feel the Burn all the time in Reno 1 / 9 Back to Gallery

In Reno, fantasy becomes reality. And no, we’re not talking about a down-on-his-luck guy hitting the jackpot in a neon-lit casino.

We’re talking a towering, stained-glass whale arcing gracefully above the Truckee River downtown. Giant robots coming to life in cavernous warehouses. Children scrambling atop a school-bus-size metal chicken. And furred and feathered costumes spilling off the shelves in quirky shops and boutiques.

And that’s a cool thing for anyone heading to the Biggest Little City in the World. Whether or not you plan to make the annual, end-of-summer pilgrimage to join roughly 70,000 fellow Burners on the playa at Black Rock Desert (Aug. 26-Sept. 3), now you can see some of the event’s interactive art installations and experience the Burning Man vibe year-round in Reno.

While some Burning Man sculptures are meant to be burned at the festival, others made of metal, steel, glass and other noncombustible material are permanent works. These are the envelope-pushing, often monumental sculptures that you can discover in Reno’s parks, museums and public spaces. In addition, artists working on their latest creations open their doors so you can see what they’re up to — and maybe even pitch in — at vast shared maker spaces.

Photo: Harriot Manley / Special To The Chronicle A child steps into "Transparenza," a lucite castle by artist Andrea...

“Reno’s not the redneck, sleazy stepchild of Vegas anymore,” says sculptor and Reno resident Peter Hazel, who regularly presents his pieces at Burning Man. “It’s changing rapidly, and it’s amazing how the city has become so open to art now.”

Another big shift: Burners who visited Reno on their way to or from the festival liked what they saw and are putting down roots and opening restaurants, shops, and other businesses that capture the Burning Man spirit. (When at the event, people pledge to follow Burning Man’s “10 Principles,” which include ideas like creativity and social responsibility.)

Hillary Schieve, Reno’s dynamic mayor, notes that being the welcoming gateway to Burning Man has helped transform the city.

“We’ve got Apple and Tesla now, and we’ve got Burning Man. We’ve become a place that opens its arms to artists and Burners, and arts and culture are the things that make people gravitate towards a city.”

The Burning Man Project in San Francisco, where the event started in 1986, produces the annual event. Staff there notice the shift too, agreeing that Reno is seeing “more innovation, more acceptance of differences, and more great food and performing arts,” says director of communications Megan Miller. “These are all values that we celebrate in our community.”

Reno is still a long way from metropolitan perfection. Though unemployment has shrunk from 15 percent to 3.5 percent, Shieve says, the Fourth Street area running east from downtown, with soup kitchens and homeless shelters, has a grimly gritty air.

But right in the middle of it all is the Morris Burner Hostel, a 1930s-era former residence hotel.

Renovated and lavishly decorated by Burners (who all donated their time and talents), the Morris now serves Burners and non-Burners alike. “Everyone who walks through the door is considered family,” says manager Danielle Ganlin (playa name: Gemini).

Even regular visitors are noticing the difference.

“It’s not the same city as when I came here as a kid,” says Lisa Chamberlin, who lives in Southern California and is attending a conference here. “Instead of hopelessness, there’s optimism.”

It’s hard to measure Burning Man’s role in this shift. But let’s just say that Burners are helping Reno head in a positive direction.

Here’s a look at where to tap into Burning Man citywide, plus a side trip northwest to the playa to learn more about Burning Man and the Black Rock Desert. For even more Burning Man art in the Reno area, follow Reno’s Playa Art Trail.

Harriot Manley is a Marin County writer and photographer. Email: travel@sfchronicle.com. Instagram: @wandering.hat

YEAR-ROUND BURNING MAN (see map)

DINING

9. Great Full Gardens: With swirling murals done by local artist Dani Rumbaugh and healthy foods (vegan and vegetarian dishes included), this airy hangout aims to “embody the vibe of Burning Man, and the community that we support and love,” says co-owner Cyndi Wallis. During festival week, a slideshow and live stream capture all the action. Signature dishes include a wasabi vegetable bowl and a wild Alaskan sockeye gyro. 555 S. Virginia St.; 8 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 8 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday; 775-324-2013; www.greatfullgardens.com/.

LODGINGS

5. Morris Burner Hostel: Part low-cost lodging, part art-filled funhouse, this quirky 27-room hostel marks a bright spot along a shabby stretch of Fourth Street. Step inside to get a tour of public spaces and themed rooms with names like Sparkle Pony and Da Vinci’s Workshop, all decorated by Burner artists. Be sure to get a look behind the hostel, where artists often work on pieces in a large empty lot. 400 Fourth St.; 775-327-1171; www.morrisburnerhostel.com.

PARKS

4. Playa Art Park: This undeveloped city block along North Virginia Street, across from the Circus Circus hotel and casino, has turned into an inviting introduction to Burning Man art. The space presents a rotating exhibit of smaller Burner art scattered around a spruced-up empty lot. A big hit with families and Instagrammers, the park is especially striking at night, when the art pieces glow with colored lights. North Virginia Street between Fifth and Sixth streets; 8 a.m.-10 p.m. daily; www.renogatewayproject.com/reno-playa-art-park.

6. City Plaza: This public space along Reno’s Riverwalk has a scattering of Burning Man sculptures. But the big — and we mean big — standout is Space Whale, a four-story-tall, stained-glass sculpture by artists Matthew Schultz of the Pier Group, Android Jones and Andy Tibbetts. Glittering in the sun during the day, glowing with waves of color at night, this 40-foot-tall marvel depicts a mother humpback whale and her calf in a gravity-defying dive. Flat-out unforgettable. North Virginia Street at First Street; 775-682-3800; www.renoriver.org/reno-city-plaza-rink-river.

SHOPPING

10. South Virginia Street: Within a half-mile of each other along South Virginia Street, in the up-and-coming Midtown neighborhood, three shops let you load up on funky-fun outfits. At PolyEsther’s Costume Boutique, Esther Dunaway whips up fur-lined hoods, pirate jackets and lacy bustiers. Browse the racks or special order a custom piece. Junkee, part antique knickknack store and part recycled clothing boutique, displays bongo pants and shell bras next to kitschy kitchen aprons. The Melting Pot World Emporium touts itself as “Reno’s coolest store since 1996.” Get the look of the playa in street-wearable styles from brands including Mind Honey, Shrine and Tipsy Elves. PolyEsther’s: 655 S. Virginia St.; 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Friday-Saturday; 775-420-5050; www.polycostumes.com. Junkee: 960 S. Virginia St.; 11 a.m.-7 p.m. daily; 775-322-5965; www.junkeeclothingexchange.com. Melting Pot: 1049 S. Virginia St.; 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Sunday; 775-322-9445; www.meltingpotworldemporium.com.

11. Reno Bike Project: At Burning Man, the best way to get around is by bike. And each year, festival organizers rescue abandoned bikes (typically coated with bone-white playa dust) and bring them to this nonprofit. Bikes are repaired as needed, then sold for $60 to $80 each — great for next year’s festival, or for just pedaling around town Burner style. (Feel-good info: Each year, Reno Bike Project donates roughly 15 percent of its bikes to Reno’s homeless.) 215 E. Grove St.; 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Wednesday and Saturday, 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Thursday-Friday, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Sunday; 775-323-4488; www.renobikeproject.org.

MAKER SPACE

3. The Generator: The nonprofit brainchild of artist Matthew Schultz, the Generator provides low-cost access to high-cost equipment (think laser-cutters and 3-D printers) for artists, plus a chance to collaborate and dream in a supportive atmosphere of fellow creatives. It’s a great place to see what’s on tap for the next Burning Man. Informal tours let you chat with artists and even pitch in — things get pretty hectic as Burning Man approaches. Workshops and classes are also offered. 1240 Icehouse Ave., Sparks; 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; 775-453-6537; $5 per person suggested donation for artist-led tour; www.therenogenerator.com.

MUSEUMS

8. The Discovery (Terry Lee Wells Discovery Museum): Sure, science museums have dinosaur bones. But look up when you enter the lobby of this Reno family favorite and you’ll see an ancient reptile unlike any other. It’s a 50-foot-long wooden ichthyosaur that’s also a fully functioning marionette. The wooden marvel, made for Burning Man by artist Jerry Snyder, honors Nevada’s state fossil, a gigantic sea reptile that once swam beneath the surface of a massive inland sea. 490 S. Center St.; 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Saturday(until 8 p.m. Wednesday), noon-5 p.m. Sunday; 775-786-1000; www.nvdm.org.

7. Nevada Museum of Art: With an interest in the radical experimentation that can happen in extreme environments like the desert, it’s no surprise that Nevada’s only accredited art museum is strongly connected to Burning Man. While the museum’s outstanding “City of Dust: The Evolution of Burning Man” exhibit has moved to the Smithsonian, you can still see the “Guardian of Eden” sculpture by Kate Raudenbush, casting dramatic shadows in the entry courtyard. Purchased by the museum in 2008, it’s the first piece of Burning Man art to become part of a museum’s permanent collection. 160 W. Liberty St.; 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Wednesday-Sunday (until 8 p.m. Thursday); 775-329-3333; www.nevadaart.org.

THE PLAYA

1. Fly Ranch and Fly Geyser: Take a guided hike to see this geologic oddity poking above the high-desert grasslands like a rainbow-hued Michelin Man. The tallest of three geothermal geysers on 3,800-acre Fly Ranch, purchased by Burning Man Project in 2016, constantly spews mineral-rich, 150-degree water. Researchers believe the geyser formed when ranchers drilled a hole (no one knows why) and hit a hot-water artesian well. Unable to cap the gusher, they let the water spew, and, as calcium and other minerals precipitated out, the tower began to grow. Tours are offered by Friends of Black Rock/High Rock (see website for Fly Ranch nature tours and other events). Reservation-only tours begin at Friends of Black Rock/High Rock Visitor Center, 320 Main St., Gerlach; 775-557-2900; www.blackrockdesert.org.