By Lily Templeton

Stephanie Hahn’s 22/4 concept threw a curveball at those expecting more of her unisex variations for Fall ‘14. But this season, the differentiation was more sensible than ever before despite her “gender-liberalized” approached.

In referencing Piet Mondrian’s words, “I believe it is possible that, through horizontal and vertical lines constructed with awareness, but not with calculation, […] can become a work of art, as strong as it is true,” Hahn ran with this idea of bisection to play with fabrics and fur rather than color. A more winter-appropriate palette plays on the codes of the Dutch painter, supplemented by furs and textural variations.

On paper, an excellent concept expected to be delivered with the surgical precision Hahn is reputed for. But in translating her vision of Mondrian-like blocks of texture into garments, the proportions that she worked with seemed to slip. Hitting slightly too short, or just a shade too long, they did little to highlight the care the designer put in her cuts.

The overall impression was one of awkwardness, a shame as there would have been plenty of reason to rave had she gone further with her excellent tailoring skills, rather than relying on familiar visual ploys that fell flat.