What is a parmo, the Middlesbrough delicacy branded ‘monstrous’ by obesity campaigners? The dish was popularised after being made on MasterChef earlier this year

The parmo, a cult delicacy from the North East, has been described as “monstrous” by a leading obesity campaigner.

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Modern versions of the speciality, from Teesside, are most commonly made with chicken breast. Pork was originally used, according to locals. To make a parmo, meat is flattened, covered in breadcrumbs, and deep-fried until crisp and golden. It is finished with a layer of béchamel sauce and melted cheese.

Middlesbrough’s favourite takeaway item is said to contain more than 2,000 calories – more than a Cornish pasty, a Staffordshire oatcake with bacon and cheese, even a chicken tikka masala from Brick Lane in London.

Now the dish has been singled out by National Obesity Forum chair Tam Fry, who has commented on new NHS data on public health, reported by i last week.

A fair few calories

The figures show that obesity is most prevalent in London, the West Midlands, and the North East of England. And it is in the latter part of the country where year six-aged school children are most unhealthy, with 22.8 per cent classified as obese.

Mr Fry told The Times: “I can answer in two syllables — parmo. You would have to be an Olympic athlete to eat it without effect; for the rest of humanity, there is an unbelievable risk of obesity.”

He also cited updated guidance from the Department of Health that advises the British public to “eat less food,” which he said is “particularly necessary for a majority of people who live in the North East, where the lifestyles have got worse, with people consuming too much junk food basically because they have not got the income which will allow them to buy good food”.

Defended by locals

The parmo’s origins have been long disputed in Teesside. Many believe the creation is the work of former soldier and restaurateur Nicos Harris. The story goes that he first served a parmo at The American Grill in 1958.

Whatever its backstory, the dish is famous in Teesside and fiercely defended by locals. Last year, mayor Ben Houchen campaigned for the parmo to receive Protected Designation of Origin Status. His plans were labelled ‘irresponsible’ by critics.

Mr Houchen isn’t the only person who thinks parmos don’t deserve such bad press.

MasterChef contestant Anthony O’Shaughnessy brought the food to a wider audience after cooking it on the lastest series of the show. Judges John Torode and Gregg Wallace loved it – and Mr O’Shaughnessy thinks issues of obesity are about much more than a single dish.

“The parmo is not the worst choice out there,” he said to i.

MasterChef fame

“I don’t think it’s reasonable to condemn a particular dish without bringing the rest of the British takeaway culture into the frame.

“The parmo is a hugely popular delicacy in Teesside and I know people there who eat one every week. Some parts of Teesside are hugely disadvantaged. Unemployment is high and child poverty is above the national average.

“If a struggling parent can provide a hot meal for their whole family for £5, they will do it. That is what makes the parmo so popular in its hometown. It is cheap food that is very sustaining.”

Mr O’Shaughnessy said maligning one food isn’t the answer, and said anything can be a part of a balanced diet.

“Takeaway food in our country has never been a sensible choice. My parents grew up eating fish and chips fried in beef dripping. Takeaway food can be part of our lifestyle – in moderation.”

Irresponsible?

John Caulson, co-founder of touring street food seller Parm Star, echoed the former MasterChef contestant. And he disputed the 2,000 calories per dish.

“A parmo is undeniably a calorific food and, like many of the best things in life, should be eaten in moderation,” he told i.

“That figure [2,000-plus] is based on a huge takeaway-sized portion and is grossly misrepresentative.”