CLEVELAND, Ohio - The thought of poutine - basically, gravy fries made a variety of ways - might be best described in the low-brow, we've-all-been-there: "drunk food."

But at Banter, consider it high-class drunk food, Cleveland-style. It's unique, it's fun, and it's worth a trip to the West Side restaurant that opened less than a year ago.

It's a place that, on a midweek night, draws groups, couples and friends to sip a craft beer or glass of wine while pondering the two main menu choices: House-made sausage and poutine. Located in Gordon Square in Cleveland's Detroit Shoreway area, Banter multitasks as a bar-restaurant-wine store.

The Canadian ... delicacy? ... of Poutine really only dates to the 1950s. It's the messy but oh-so-good fries, cheese curds and gravy. Before opening, the folks at Banter even went to Montreal on a fact-finding mission. What they have done is come back, classed up the dish, and added Cleveland touches.

The two-hands-required sausage options come with some serious, thick rolls to support the loaded, hearty, zesty and flavorful toppings. The poutine platters are worthy of sharing. (Note to owners: Serve tongs with poutine. It's a challenge to use a knife and fork as a chopsticks-like tool to surgically scoop up fries laden with toppings.) Poutine dishes are a goopy mess - and we mean that in the best way possible.

Best named dish in Cleveland? Vladimir Poutine. (Sidebar: In 2005, William Safire wrote a column for the New York Times saying the Russian leader's last name was being spelled 'Poutine' in the French press; interested linguists can read on here.)

Banter's Vladimir Poutine is a plateful of frites under braised Ohio lamb Stroganov, mushroom, borscht (of course) gravy, curd and orange zest.

A pair of chicken poutine dishes (Paprikash, with smoked chicken, spaetzle and creme fraiche) and Pollo Verde (pulled chicken, masa gravy, cilantro salsa and tomatillo) hit the spot. The comfort-food feeling they give offsets a heavily salted taste.

And who says duck is reserved for thinly sliced medallions at four-star restaurants? A rich splurge would be seared fois gras atop frites, with duck gravy, apple gastrique and duck confit.

The curry dog converted this non-curry fan, with its fermented ramp-curry ketchup, frites, curry madras and chive. The Polish Boy really is a loaded kielbasa with frites, Comeback City BBQ and coleslaw. Both were flavorful, though I could have done without fries on the Polish Boy since we also ordered poutine. Perhaps make it an option? The Banter dog (pork, smoked cheddar, mustard and an amazingly bright green neon relish) sits atop the sausage choices. The cheese took a back seat to the zesty, tasty dog with the sprinkled relish and drizzled mustard.

My favorite of the sausages we tried: Fried Chicken. It makes for a nice contrast of crunchy on the outside and chewy on the inside, with braised greens, sweet corn mustard and hot sauce. Great texture, nice heat, and the crispy shell isn't overdone.

The two dishes - loaded sausages and souped-up poutine - could be greasy messes. They are a bit sloppy but definitely not greasy - so kudos to the chef. They are filling, so come hungry.

As for drinks, the restaurant is split into thirds, with the taps, tables and kitchen in the first section by the front door. Weave your way into the second adjacent area, and you'll find spartan surroundings with hundreds of wine bottles and a few tables. The third room holds coolers of beer - everything from Belgian ales, local crafts and the likes of Pabst Blue Ribbon. (Nominal corkage fees apply.)

This is not a vibrant area. A Family Dollar and Burger King are close. But it takes one business to be the catalyst for neighborhood development, and hats off to Banter for trying something new.

If you're in the mood for a light dinner only, have a drink at Banter and go elsewhere. But because of the tasty variations of sausages and poutine dishes, Banter is worth multiple trips. My newest culinary bucket-list goal will be to try the Fried Malt Liquor Cheese Curds.

More on Banter

* The restaurant's floor is made from the old Elyria High School basketball court.

* During the Republican National Convention, Banter held a 'Wurst Off', asking people to vote for a Hillarywurst or a Trumpwurst.

* Tunes on a midweek visit covered 1980s hits.

* Banter holds occasional tastings, like one recently featuring 3 Floyds Brewing Co. of Indiana.

Taste Bites

Banter

Where: 7320 Detroit Ave., Cleveland.

Contact: 216-801-0305.

Online: bantercleveland.com

Hours: 11 a.m.-midnight Monday-Thursday; 11 a.m.-1 a.m. Friday-Saturday; noon-8 p.m. Sunday.

Prices: Poutine, $8-$22 (but only the foie gras is $22; everything else is $13 and under); sausage, $6-$9. One salad is on the menu: Banter Salad (shaved Brussel sprouts, Ohio apple, cider vinaigrette) is $8.

Reservations: No.

Credit cards: All major.

Cuisine: Sausage and poutine.

Accessibility: Plenty of space.

Grade: ***