Legend has it that the Lebanese capital of Beirut was rebuilt from the ashes seven times, making it an urban phoenix in mythology. With a volatile past, the city has become as synonymous with conflict as it has with hummus and tabbouleh. But when Anthony Bourdain first visited Beirut in 2006, it was love at first landing. Bourdain discovered a city that defied expectation and logic, a city that made no “damn sense at all—in the best possible way.”

Beirut has experienced a renaissance in recent years, mystifying visitors with its magical ability to move seamlessly between two worlds. Each moment feels as uniquely European as it does Middle Eastern—dizzying streets with French names lead to clubs that were once underground bunkers, interspersed with the city’s finest shawarma or man’oushe with za'atar. But the magnetic aura that captured Bourdain’s heart extends beyond Beirut’s city limits to make the entire nation an attractive place to explore.