MICA (found in EVERY mineral makeup) is a group of silicate minerals that are widely distributed in different types of rock. Because Mica comes from the earth it may contain trace amounts of heavy metals. The levels of heavy metals in Mica are regulated by the FDA, and the small amounts that may eventually be in cosmetics do not pose a risk to human health.

BUT… if the mica crystals are not ground/milled finely enough (150µm or less), they will cause topical abrasion to the skin during makeup application. So, while you’re busy swirling, tapping and buffing that mineral makeup into your skin, you’re actually creating microscopic incisions all over your face, making it vulnerable to possible infection and environmental damage. This is especially problematic for anyone with tender or delicate skin (acneic, rosacea, eczema, etc.).

ZINC OXIDE is an inorganic compound derived from the mineral zincite. Most cosmetic grade zinc oxide is produced from synthetically grown zincite crystals. I admit, zinc oxide does have health benefits, but it’s still not natural. It provides minor relief from skin irritation and is used in diaper rash ointments and calamine lotions. It is also the key ingredient in physical sunblocks, one of the most famous being Zinka Nosecoat.

Most mineral makeups combine titanium dioxide (white pigment) and zinc oxide to create UVA/UVB protection (SPF). The opacity of the two ingredients, combined with the highly reflective quality of the zinc oxide, creates a physical sunblock (not sunscreen, which is chemical), effectively “bouncing” UVA/UVB rays off of the skin.

THIS IS PROBLEMATIC – When applied at moderate to full coverage, the zinc/titanium combo that creates the physical sunblock (SPF) causes many mineral makeups to reflect light back in flash photography (the same way it reflects UVA/UVB rays). This “strobing” effect giving skin a white-ish or unflattering grey cast in photographs.