Lakeland's Posto 9, the Brazilian-flavored restaurant with a rooftop lounge that debuted in December, has abandoned the idea of a no-tipping policy.

LAKELAND — Lakeland's Posto 9, the Brazilian-flavored restaurant with a rooftop lounge that debuted in December, has abandoned the idea of a no-tipping policy.

From the start, the restaurant's decision to ignore convention and pay servers and bartenders a competitive salary along with health and other benefits was something of a gamble.

There is a growing number of restaurateurs who have converted to paying servers and other staff a salary in the hopes that it will reduce turnover, boost morale and lead to better overall service.

Despite some successes, an overwhelming majority of eateries have stayed with tradition.

When Marco Franca, the owner of Posto 9, announced last year that he would institute a no-tipping policy, some scoffed, including Larry Ross, a professor of business administration at Florida Southern College and a former restaurateur.

Ross said Posto 9's failure at maintaining its policy is more about market forces than a reflection of management.

"In Europe and Asia, it (no tipping) is the model," he said. "But here, we grew up on a tipping model. … He (Franca) knew he was taking a risk."

Franca announced the change Sunday on Facebook, saying the no-tipping policy had proved an obstacle to finding talented bartenders — a position that has become even more essential now that his Ipanema Rooftop Lounge is open.

Franca said he’d been paying some of his top servers and bartenders a salary of $17 an hour, plus benefits, but it wasn’t enough to lure the quality of mixologist he’s seeking. He said he's switched to a much lower hourly wage for front-of-the-house staff, freeing them to subsidize pay through customer tips.

"Every time we spoke to someone, their expectation was, 'Yes, you have a great salary, but I can make three times more (through tips),'" he said. "I cannot force the market … we tried. A business such as ours depends on people, and we humbly accept that change. We're very happy with the reaction of the community."

Customer reaction on Facebook is mixed. Some are sympathetic to the restaurant, whose owners have invested a substantial sum in renovating the downtown space and creating what many describe as a destination-worthy environment.

More than a few comments center on pricing, suggesting that Posto 9 should lower its prices now that salaries have been scaled back.

Writes Peggy Chapman: "I hope the prices change, as I assumed the tip was in the price of the meal ... I find the prices high."

And this from Karina Ferrer Sloan, which is more sympathetic in tone: "It was a great initiative, but we understand how hard it is to find good, talented and responsible personnel. We support you in your decision. You guys are great!!!! You have created an outstanding environment in downtown Lakeland. With or without tip you have our patronage. Good luck."

Franca said he is reducing prices on some menu items, but not cocktails, which will remain competitive with like-minded establishments .

"I bring in very high-end products," he said. "People think we are going to be (priced) like a Chili’s (Grill & Bar), and that’s not what we want to do. We want to be compared to Ulele (Restaurant & Brewery in Tampa), or the Ravenous Pig in Winter Park."

Franca said the average food ticket at his restaurant is $80, much too low to sustain a no-tipping policy. In order to preserve a salaried structure for servers, bartenders and other front-of-the-house staff, the ticket would have to average $250 or more, he said.

Posto 9 will continue to offer its employees — now numbering 85 — a benefits package that includes health, dental, vision and life insurance, with the restaurant covering half of the cost.

Although sensitive to much of the negative feedback concerning his pricing, Franca said he's dedicated to helping elevate the dining experience in Lakeland — something that can’t be done on the cheap.

He said as much as 15 percent of his business is from outside of Polk County, which serves to support his business model. The restaurant also has attracted attention from Orlando-area food writers and bloggers.

"(Posto 9) is to be a culinary experience," Franca said. "We want people to understand that food is art. And with the investment we've made, the (staff), the quality of ingredients, this is not a $20 plate (kind of place)."

— Eric Pera can be reached at eric.pera@theledger.com or 863-802-7528.