I recently had the privilege of accompanying a Bulgarian friend to his citizenship ceremony here in London. Despite the tacky taste of awkwardness that regurgitates with most forms of public rituals, I was surprisingly moved by it all.

To welcome such a diverse group of individuals with open arms and to have them form an orderly queue and charge them £20 for an official photo produced by a bright red printer. A remarkable introduction to life as a Brit, and yet, all stemming from the most anti-British and bizarre of all things – Brexit. Many of my Bulgarian friends now hold British passports. Some of those passports have had the words ‘European Union’ erased.

Ironically, if it wasn’t for the EU, none of them would have become British citizens today.

Those passports are like palimpsests – multi-layered records, in which the writing is partially erased. But with time, traces of the original text begin to reemerge. Palimpsests, like Brexit and post-socialism, are funny things. You get to start with a clean sheet by recycling old text and superimposing new meaning on it. But in the end, all you’ve done is paradoxically preserve the original layer.

The Berlin Wall today, too, is nothing more than a fragmented palimpsest, in various stages of decay, scattered across the world. There’s even a wall panel exhibited in Sofia that someone recently spray-painted a new layer of graffiti on.

Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Show all 76 1 /76 Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Crowds march through central London Getty Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Protesters gather in Parliament Square Led By Donkeys Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Mayor of London Sadiq Khan joins protesters PA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Anti-Brexit protesters fill Parliament Square in London PA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march A demonstrator marches EPA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People's Vote Final say march - 19 October 2019 Angela Christofilou Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Protesters push a float depicting Dominic Cummings using Boris Johnson as a puppet during the Final Say Brexit march in London PA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march EU supporters react after the result of the vote on the deal delay was announced at the House of Commons REUTERS Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march A demonstrator carries his dog draped in EU flag AP Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Thousands of people taking part in a People's Vote march AFP/Getty Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Protesters use their flags to shelter from the rain Getty Images Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Protesters march towards Parliament Square Getty Images Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Anti-Brexit demonstrators carry placards and EU flags AP Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Sir Oliver Letwin MP in Parliament Square, London, during an an anti-Brexit, Let Us Be Heard rally, after it was announced that the Letwin amendment, which seeks to avoid a no-deal Brexit on October 31, has been accepted PA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Thousands of people taking part in a People's Vote march UK BROADCASTERS POOL/AFP via Get Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march A protester with "Bollocks to Brexit" stickers on his head Getty Images Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Demonstrators march EPA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Britain's main opposition Labour Party shadow Secretary of State for Exiting the EU Keir Starmer, shadow Home Secretary Dianne Abbott, shadow Chancellor of the Exchequer John McDonnell, shadow Foreign Secretary Emily Thornberry speaks on stage in Parliament Square AFP via Getty Images Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Anti-Brexit supporters cheer outside 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shout and chant Getty Images Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Cory (7) sits on his father's shoulders as protesters march towards Parliament Square Getty Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march People attend the 'Together for the Final Say' march EPA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Protesters march towards Parliament Square Getty Images Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Mayor of London Sadiq Khan speaks on stage PA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march A woman in EU costume EPA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Anti-Brexit protesters fill Parliament Square in London PA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Anti-Brexit protesters AP Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Anti-Brexit protesters hold an Independent banner Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Protesters hold an anti-Brexit placard by The Independent stall during the Final Say Brexit march in London Tom Richell Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Anti-Brexit protesters in Parliament Square, London, PA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Demonstrators hold placards and EU flags AFP/Getty Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march An anti-Brexit protester joins in the Final Say Brexit march on 19 October AP Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march EU supporters march in London REUTERS Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Sir Patrick Stewart and Paul McGann join in the Final Say Brexit march in London on 19 October PA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march EU supporters march Reuters Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march A demonstrator shouts into a megaphone as she marches AFP via Getty Images Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march A dog dressed in an anti-Brexit placard is walked in the Final Say Brexit march in London EPA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march EU supporters march REUTERS Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march A morris dancer takes part in the Final Say Brexit march in London PA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Whippets are dressed in EU flag clothing during the Final Say Brexit march in London AP Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Protesters march towards parliament in the Final Say Brexit march in London on 19 October 2019 PA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march An anti-Brexit demonstrator takes part in the Final Say Brexit march in London AFP/Getty Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march EU supporters call on the government to give Britons a vote on the final Brexit deal Reuters Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Anti-Brexit protesters Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march An anti-Brexit protester Angela Christofilou/The Independent Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Anti-Brexit protesters demonstrate in London during the Final Say Brexit march on 19 October AP Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Protesters push a float depicting Dominic Cummings using Boris Johnson as a puppet during the Final Say Brexit march in London AFP/Getty Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Protesters march towards parliament from Park Lane in the Final Say Brexit march in London on 19 October 2019 PA Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march Marchers visit The Independent stall during the Final Say March in London Tom Richell Best pictures from Final Say Brexit march An anti-Brexit protester holds a sign calling for a Final Say during a march in London EPA

To think that 30 years ago this Sunday, a day after the Berlin Wall fell, Bulgaria’s suffocating socialist regime crumbled. That until 30 years ago, my father had never set foot outside Bulgaria. That 30 years ago I was born in a world entirely different from the one a year before. A world of choice and options, a world of Cartoon Network and McDonald’s.

A world in which the old grey prefabricated mass housing projects in Bulgaria, a gift from the Soviet Union, burst out in technicolour. Each flat owner painting over their facades to distinguish it from a neighbour’s, to stand out, to be recognised. Today, what used to be a blanket of homogenous concrete covering the Sofia cityscape resembles a giant DIY mosaic palimpsest.

A photo taken in 2017 in the neighbourhood of ‘Mladost’ in Sofia. Mladost means ‘youth’ in Bulgarian ( Nikolay Nikolov) (Nikolay Nikolov)

Like the colourful facades, Bulgaria’s transition to democracy is also palimpsestuous. Meaning is layered and recycled. It’s comically fitting, too, that Bulgaria today has some of the highest recycling rates in the EU.

Thirty years ago, the narrative of democracy was introduced, tried, and tested by the same clique of people who ruled under socialism. Unlike Central European nations, where mass protests brought their regimes down, a palace coup spelt the end of Todor Zhivkov’s 33-year dictatorship. And just like that, power and wealth were recycled among a select few.

The story about democracy was rewritten again when its former tsar, Simeon Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, returned in 2001, only to renounce his title and be crowned prime minister. He was eventually succeeded by the current prime minister – Boyko Borissov (who – and you can’t make this up – was once Todor Zhivkov’s bodyguard).

Bulgaria is rich in examples like this – far-right groups stoking fear and fragmenting votes on xenophobic platforms wrapped in patriotism, only for their leaders to pop up in Moscow, criticise ‘the West’, and praise Vladimir Putin. Or the time in 2014 when an oligarch, Delyan Peevski, was appointed the head of the National Security Agency, causing the largest and longest mass protests in two decades.

In an old 1984 essay called The Tragedy of Central Europe, Milan Kundera writes of the cultural heritage that strings Europe together. Europe not as geography, but as shared identity. Kundera recalls a statement the Hungarian news agency director issued on the eve of the Prague Spring. That message ended with the prophetic words: “We are going to die for Hungary and for Europe.”

Simon Calder explores the newest rail revolution in southern Bulgaria

For Kundera, Bulgaria, then, was too far east to share the cultural heritage of Kafka or Freud or the resolve of the news agency director. Europe was not Bulgaria’s to strive for. And yet, after all that, it is the Bulgarian political playbook that these nations seem to be following. From Poland and Hungary’s recycled "illiberal democracies" to Britain’s catastrophic Brexit proceedings and America under Trump. All reliant on thirst for authoritarian power that has replaced the pledge of the news agency director.

There’s a famous Bulgarian song from the 1980s, secretly set to the melody of ‘Let it Be’, which begs the question ‘how are we going to catch up with the Americans’? If there is one thing we can learn, 30 years after the exhaustion of Bulgaria’s socialist regime, it’s that nothing lasts and if we don’t pay attention, history gets overwritten. And pretty soon, you start asking the question when will America - or the UK, Hungary, etc. – catch up with Bulgaria.