The first thing people say when they find out I’m attempting a femme Khal Drogo is “What are you going to do with your boobs?” It’s a fair question, and when I started out on this project I didn’t really have a clue what the answer was. Once the girdle was made though, I had more of an idea what space I had to fill. Of course because of the shoulder makeup whatever I make has to be sleeveless and strapless.

The only option to me is creating a type of bra type top in the same materials and style as the girdle and since I have neither the skill or the time to make a bra from scratch I’m going to cover an existing one. I’ve used a really great strapless bra with solid cups for this – it needs to have some substance or it wont take the weight of the Pleather.

The first thing I did was use the existing bra cups to size up and cut two squares of Pleather which we’ll then use to cover the bra cups. Cut these generously as Pleather doesn’t stretch.

Once you have these squares cut, lay them over the existing cups and make a mark with tailors chalk or 2 pins to mark where the nipple line is. At this line we need to create a small seam – this will help the inflexible Pleather take the shape of the bra. To create the seam just fold the fabric at the point you’ve marked and stitch along the line on the underside as close as possible. As I prefer to hand sew, I doubled up my cotton and also doubled back on the seam for extra strength. If you are doing this on a sewing machine use a short stitch for security.

Once both pieces are done you can pin them to your bra – try to leave plenty of fabric either side of the cup so you can butt these two squares up to each other at the centre line. Remember, you want your seam to run roughly along the nipple line and the two cups should line up.

Use a running stitch around the cups pulling the Pleather taught to the curve as you go. Remember I said Pleather is inflexible? Well, there is still a tiny bit of play in the fabric which which will enable you to create a really smooth finish. I then used the same running stitch down the side seam of the bra and a ladder stitch where the Pleather meets at the centre line.

Once you are happy with all this you can run back over the stitching. Next we can attach the Pleather to the bottom edge of the front band – secure it on the back of the bra with an over-casting stitch. Again, I doubled my thread here for strength.

Once I’d sewn the front, I wasn’t really sure what to do with the excess fabric at the top of the cups. You could really shape this however you wanted. I thought about pin pleats but it looked too fussy and although with the right bra or a very minimal bust you could just fold over and stitch down the excess material, these cups are very shallow so I was glad of the extra movement the excess would allow me – I ended up just trimming the excess to shape.

The only thing left to do with the front was to decide if i wanted to embellish it or leave it plain. I decided I’d try to mirror the crude leather stitching on the girdle with a line along the seam of the cup. When teamed with the girdle I thought it looked quite cohesive, so I used a hot glue gun to attach the false stitching.

The final thing to do on this bra is to cover the back band. It’s more important you use a stretchy material for this bit or else you will end up with a very uncomfortable and ill-fitting bra. I chose a lightweight stretch cotton jersey for the job. This bit is pretty simple – just use the over-casting stitch to secure the fabric to the back strap making sure to butt right up against the side seam where the Pleather finishes. Here’s an inside view.

Finally, the boob dilemma has been resolved! In hindsight it was nice to have a little creative freedom in this piece.