Friday

1) 2 p.m. Ski in the city

A host of the Winter Olympics in 1928 and 1948, St. Moritz is prime snow-sports territory, with a paradise of idyllic paths for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and sledding. Still, downhill skiing is the siren call of these mountains. Outside town, Corvatsch offers skiers daredevil verticality, but St. Moritz’s own Corviglia has glorious expanses of snowy slopes. (Day passes start at 50 Swiss francs, or about $50, depending on the week.) Warm up frozen toes afterward with a hot drink at Alpinahütte, where you’ll find skiers reviving with glühwein (mulled wine), skiwasser (hot water with raspberry syrup and lemon) and bull shots, a 17-Swiss-franc concoction of vodka and consommé.

2) 6:30 p.m. Aperitivo

Badrutt’s Palace, with its green-tipped tower marking the bull's-eye of Via Serlas, is the heart of St. Moritz society. The hotel’s remodeled King’s Social House, said to be the oldest club in Switzerland, serves dinner and cocktails to a crowd that stays late to dance in its basement lounge. But there’s even more action at the plush Renaissance Bar: Badrutt’s pocket-size, antique smoking lounge, known to regulars as Mario’s, after the now-retired barman there. Around the fireplace, scores of merrymakers pack the velvet banquettes and armchairs, lighting cigars with matches in sterling silver cases and inviting new acquaintances for rounds of Mario’s signature cocktails (like the hot negroni, with Campari, red wine, cranberry and juniper berries for 25 francs) and the popular club sandwich ( available for home delivery, via Badrutt’s slick black Rolls-Royce).