It’s back-to-school shopping season, and American families will spend $82.8 billion this year, most of it on clothing, the National Retail Federation estimates. It’s second only to Christmas for many retailers.

Families with children planned to spend an average of $237 on clothing per child, according to data from the federation. And most of that shopping is still done in department stores, said Ana Serafin Smith, a spokeswoman for the group.

So what’s popular this year? Everyone agrees: It’s ’80s and ’90s nostalgia. Think neon, fanny packs and “dad sneakers.” Street-style activewear is also in demand, as is apparel with messages about inclusivity and peace.

It’s a far cry from the plaid jumpers, skirtsuits and berets pictured above, from a 1952 article in The New York Times advertising dress patterns for sale. Virginia Pope, then the paper’s fashion editor, described how to use the patterns, which were available for 25 to 35 cents and a self-addressed stamped envelope.