Talk about getting crushed -- Oregon just blew California off the map when it comes to producing world-class pinot noir.

the industry's leading publication, heaps lavish praise on the state in its latest issue, glowingly pronouncing that Oregon is now second-to-none in this country when it comes to its signature wine grape.

The timing of the article's acclaim couldn't be better. It comes at the precise moment Oregon winemakers are seizing the opportunity to create national wine-tourism destinations in a raft of new tasting rooms scattered throughout Yamhill, Polk and Marion counties.

And on the eve, no less, of the Thanksgiving wine-tasting weekend, one of the biggest sales and winery-touring events of the year.

"We're getting calls from all over the place," said Tom Danowski, the

executive director. "It's a fabulous gift to have that kind of coverage on our flagship variety."

The state's $2.7 billion commercial wine industry has relied for years on the thin-skinned red grape's success in opening lucrative new markets and wooing picky reviewers. But there was always the notion that cool-climate growing areas in parts of California could produce something just as delectable.

No longer. Now, the only competition in sight comes from France's celebrated Cote d'Or growing region 200 miles southeast of Paris, according to Wine Spectator.

"Oregon may not have the international caché that Burgundy does," said Harvey Steiman, who wrote the glowing article, "but it's producing a similar level of quality."

When news flashed that bad weather in Europe and elsewhere caused the worst global grape harvest in the past half-century, some wondered whether Oregon's winemakers could help fill the inevitable void.

Industry veterans knew the answer before the question was even asked: No.

"In terms of worldwide production, we're just a pin prick here," said Rollin Soles, winemaker at

in Dundee. "There's just not much to begin with."

Consumers can be thankful the state doesn't have to rely on sheer quantity for success. Given that Oregon produces only about 1 percent of all wine made in this country, it's simply not there.

So the message of quality will be the one vintners will repeat all weekend, as thousands of wine lovers fan out not only across the northern Willamette Valley, but in other winegrowing areas of the state, as well. Those include the Columbia Gorge, southern parts of the valley and the Rogue and Umpqua valleys.

And with good reason: Winemakers want to convert inarguably great press into on-site profits.

Although direct sales in tasting rooms account for a relatively small amount of most wineries' total sales, they account for as much as one-third of all annual revenues. That's because tasting-room sales priced at retail levels flow directly into a winery's coffers. Sales at supermarkets, restaurants and wine shops, while crucial for brand building, go through distributors, who pocket much of the difference.

"Selling wine through distribution channels pays the bills," said Oregon wine pioneer David Adelsheim, who founded

near Newberg in 1971. "But it gives you no return on investment."

Adelsheim and others note that some of their best and most expensive wines are purchased in their tasting rooms, especially now that affluent travelers have heard the word that Oregon's growing number of high-end bed-and-breakfasts and restaurants make its vineyard lands a destination point.

"Once upon a time, the only people who would come to Oregon wine country were very adventuresome, young and not particularly wealthy wine enthusiasts," Adelsheim said. "That's all changed. There's incredible national demand now for high-end experiences at Oregon wineries."

Sokol Blosser in Dayton was the first winery in its area to open a tasting room in 1978, when some days brought only a trickle of tourists. Last year, by contrast, nearly 40,000 people made the trek.

In wanting to guarantee a more intimate experience for visitors, the winery in July will open a new 5,000-square-foot tasting room replete with ancillary areas where it can host small groups for personalized tastings.

"We want to make a statement," said Alex Sokol Blosser, the operation's co-president. "We are out to offer one of the best wine country experiences you'll have on the West Coast."

He's far from alone in joining what some are calling the "arms race" of competing for direct sales in wine country by ramping up facilities for visitors.

At least half a dozen tasting rooms are either under construction or newly opened at wineries scattered throughout Yamhill, Polk and Marion counties.

Stoller Vineyards' new solar-powered tasting room near Dayton, for example, offers 4,000 square feet of picture windows looking directly out onto its vineyards. It includes features such as architectural ceiling designs fashioned from wood reclaimed from southern Oregon's 2002 Biscuit Fire and stately pillars gleaned from old warehouses in Portland's Pearl District.

"Revenue from tasting rooms is critical, it really is," said Gary Mortensen, Stoller's general manager. "Providing folks with something interesting to see and enjoy is a huge part of that."

Toss in a product that's now hailed as the best of its kind in the nation, and wine aficionados throughout the state are more than likely to enjoy their touring this weekend.

– Dana Tims