Long before that Emilio was considering the future of his craft and positioning his excellent distillery, Don Mateo de la Sierra, as one of the most progressive and sustainable distillers of mezcal in Mexico. That vision, as well as a shared disdain for the impending NOM-186 regulations, are what drew importer David Suro to his products four years ago.

Together they’ve invested in both the distillery and the fields. Emilio’s main rancho, El Limon, is now recognized as Bat Friendly and Biodiverse certified. He uses certified deadwood harvested sustainably from the local region to prevent degradation of the surrounding forest which Emilio sees as crucial to the future of his operation. He’s forward thinking, but completely rooted in tradition.

The distillery (in Michoacán they call it “la vinata” from the old way of describing the products, Vinos de Mezcal) is one of the cleanest and best organized I’ve ever seen. It sits on the side of a mountain in at 6500 feet. All around old growth pine and oak trees are dotted with orchids and lichen and a lush garden of roses separates the distillery from the kitchen where Emilio’s mother Dehlia is already preparing Gorditas for the group.