This makes an Equalized, Small Angle, Redundant, No Extension, Strong, & Timely anchor. Practice at home before you use this tool in the mountains. It is an anchor to be made when other options do not exist.



To take it a step further, one (or both) of the red non-locking carabiners can be omitted by girth hitching the dyneema sling to the first piece. Warning: when webbing is attached directly against the wire of the nut, it significantly reduces the fabrics durability. BUT, with a new sling, it should be strong enough to rappel from. Check your personal gear's breaking strengths. I would not use that configuration to belay a lead climber as significantly more force can be generated.



For example: You are climbing a big alpine route, and your progress is slower than you anticipated. Then an afternoon thunderstorm comes in. Bailing off the route is better than getting zapped. Your best option, even though you have 1500 feet (450m) of unknown terrain to rappel through. You only have 18 pieces total on your rack. That will allow for nine, 2-piece, anchors. So you now need to be very conservative with the use of your rack...this anchor is key in that scenario.

