Denmark’s fashion scene is unparalleled in the realm of Scandinavian fashion, and the Danes have managed to become the vanguards of Nordic design. Over the past years, Copenhagen has become the epicentre of Scandinavian designers that believe in anything but trends – yet they are some of the biggest trend-makers on the planet, perhaps without even knowing it. Copenhagen Fashion Week is the last remaining fashion week in the Scandinavian landscape, as Stockholm Fashion Week has cancelled its plans to showcase SS20 collections this year. The (great) Danes have managed to merge wholesale, exhibitions and runway shows into one jam-packed schedule, featuring exciting new talent alongside designers who have stood the test of time and made it big outside the borders of Denmark.

Freya Dalsjø is in a league of her own; her designs are uncompromising and always a step ahead of the others. For her SS20 collection, Dalsjø went in the opposite direction of the other designers at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Her collection was uniformed with a hint of space-age and The Matrix. Dresses with clean incision gunshot wounds were the highlight of the collection. This was also Dalsjø’s most tactile collection to date; her use of highly textured fabrics made her collection stand out amongst the rest in a colour palette consisting of silver, orange, grey, white and black.

Rodebjer stayed true to their ideology this season. Their signature aesthetic has always been very relaxed, cool and almost resort-like, with kaftans, tunics, wide-leg trousers and new interpretations of modern tailoring dominating the runway. One of the many highlights of the show was the brand’s take on summer knits, which were asymmetrical and loose-fitting. What was also quite interesting was seeing how the brand took the colour black and made it summer appropriate, mixing it with Middle Eastern detailing in gold, saree-inspired gowns and summer-friendly puffer coats.

Holzweiler pumped up the volume this season, staging a show in a large public gym hall with undoubtedly the best casting of the season. The brand focused primarily on light and airy functional clothing in a muted summer palette of blue, cream and yellow paralleled with stunning crochet accessories in crisp white and terracotta. The Norwegian fashion house also blurred the lines of gender-restricted garments, placing men in near sheer tops and even a dress. The audience was also urged to put away their phones so they could enjoy the show without distractions.

The undeniable highlight of the season was Cecilie Bahnsen. Staged on a dock just outside the city centre, Bahnsen sent her angelic and romantic-looking models down the runway in a collection that offered new notions of femininity through a simple yet enchanting colour palette of lemon, candy floss, asphalt and rice. Her dropped hemline dresses have become a staple for the brand; however, she managed to turn things around and bring something new to the table, featuring feather dresses and sheer tailoring. Her collection also featured her latest collaboration with Suicoke: three styles of beaded couture-inspired sandals.

Mark Kenly Domino Tan is a favourite amongst the Danish royal family, and it shows in his designs. The MKDT woman has come of age and become more sophisticated. His incredible use of fabrics and technique is unparalleled in the Danish design community, as no one cuts cloth quite like him. The collection was primarily set in crisp white colours, with sudden jabs of navy and warm beige. The highlight of this collection was undoubtedly the tailoring – not to mention the big white fur coat. The collection was narrow and simple, but featured enough contemporary elements to grab our attention.

Saks Potts is five years old this year. In that time, it has grown tremendously, going from being a small local brand to becoming a grand international contender in the fashion industry. The brand presented a show that sent chills down your spine from the beginning, with a live orchestra playing familiar tunes whilst the 70s and 80s inspired collection travelled across the concert hall. The collection was filled with timely cowboy-inspired items like a crystal cowboy hat, paralleled with studded denim and fur-trimmed patent coats. The SS20 by Saks Potts was the most well-thought-out collection of the season, with a clear concept and pristine execution.

Danish design legend Henrik Vibskov is extremely loyal to his Danish roots; not only does he show during Paris Fashion Week, he also brings his collection (and his theatrics) to his hometown. The collection was heavily inspired by Japan and our dystopian future, featuring wearable clothing with a kooky and playful twist. His models wore perhaps this season’s wildest shoes, which appeared to be handmade from wood, plastic and foam. The highlight of the show was the technical anorak-style parachute dress in beige with drawstrings – not to mention the avant-garde tailoring.

Read more about Copenhagen Fashion Week on their website.

words. Madeleine Holth