Everest Southeast Ridge aka South Col

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Elevations and Times Between Camps Base Camp: 17,500'/5334m

C1: 19,500'/5943m - 3-6 hours, 1.62 miles

C2: 21,000'/6400m - 2-3 hours, 1.74 miles

C3:23,500'/7162m - 3-7 hours, 1.64 miles

Yellow Band - 1-3 hours

Geneva Spur - 1-2 hours

South Col: 26,300'/8016m - 1 hour or less

Balcony: 3 - 6 hours

South Summit : 28500' - 8690m - 3 to 5 hours

Hillary Step - 1 hour or less

Summit: 29,035' / 8850m - 1 hour or less

Return to South Col: 3 -7 hours

Return to C2: 3 hours

Return to Base Camp: 4 hours Summit Stats The Himalayan Database reports that through December 2019 there have been 10,155 summits (5,140 members and 5,015 hired) on Everest by all routes by 5,780 different people. 1,343 people, including 941 Sherpa, have summited multiple times. There have been 702 summits by women. The Nepalese side has seen 6,552 summits with 195 deaths through December 2019 or 2.9%, a rate of 1.23. 122 died not using Os.

The Tibet side has seen 3,603 summits with 110 deaths through December 2019 or 3%, a rate of 1.08. 48 died not using Os. see more facts here Typical Climb Schedule March 29 - Arrive Katmandu, Nepal

March 30,31 - Katmandu

April 1 - Fly to Lukla(9200'/2804m)

April 2-10 - Trek to Base Camp (17,500'/5334m)

April 11-13 - Setup BC

Apr 14 - 29 May - Climbing Period: C1 (19,500'/5943m) C2 (21,000'/6400m) C3 (23,500'/7162m) South Col (26,300'/8016m) Summit (29,035'/8850m)

May 30 - Disassemble BC

May 31 - Trek to Lukla

June 1 - Fly to Katmandu

June 2,3,4 - Weather days or Katmandu

June 5 - Depart for Home

Base Camp up the Ice Fall click to enlarge map





Everest Base Camp is on the lower left with the initial route up the ice fall as seen from Kala Patar. Climbers can only see a small portion of the Khumbu Ice Fall from this angle. Everest is the highest peak in back, the one in front is Everest's West Shoulder. See more pictures of Base Camp Overview Mt. Everest was first summited by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary with a British expedition in 1953. They took the South Col route which is described on this page. At that time the route had only been attempted twice by Swiss teams in the spring and autumn of 1952. They reached 8500m well above the South Col. Of note, Norgay was with the Swiss thus giving him the experience he used on the British expedition. The Swiss returned in 1956 to make the second summit of Everest. Today, hundreds of climbers from around the world use this route to try to stand on top of the world. It is considered slightly more dangerous than the North Ridge Route due primarily to the instability of the Khumbu Icefall. However some considered it slightly easier than the north due to the absence of the ladders and rock climbing on the steep steps of the North Ridge route. Nepal was closed to foreigners until 1950. Recent Events Recent years have been tragic with 17 Sherpas killed in the Khumbu Icefall by a serac release on April 8, 2014 and 19 people killed on April 25, 2015 at Everest Base Camp from an avalanche triggered off Pumori's ridge by a magnitude 7.8 earthquake almost 200 miles away in Nepal. 2016 - 2018 were relatively normal with no major events. However, in 2019 9 people died on the Nepal side, most were avoidable and a result of inexperience of both client and guide. Statistics The Himalayan Database reports that through August 2020 there have been 10,271 summits (5,164 members and 5,107 hired) on Everest by all routes by 5,790 different people. 1,352 people, including 941 Sherpa, have summited multiple times. There have been 772 summits by women members. The Nepal side is more popular with 6,554 summits compared to 3,632 summits from the Tibet side. 216 climbers summited without supplemental oxygen, about 2.1%. 35 climbers have traversed from one side to the other. About 62% of all expeditions put at least one member on the summit. 621 climbers have summited from both Nepal and Tibet. 119 climbers have summited more than once in a single season. 304 people (185 westerners and 119 Sherpas) have died on Everest from 1924 to August 2020, about 3.5%. 109 died on the descending from summit bid or 35% of the total deaths. 13 women have died. The Nepal side has 194 deaths or 2.9%, a rate of 1.23. The Tibet side has 112 deaths or 3%, a rate of 1.08. Most bodies are still on the mountain but China has removed many bodies from sight on their side. The top causes of death are from avalanche (77), fall (71), altitude sickness (36) and exposure (26). In 2019 there were 878 summits, 216 from Tibet and 662 from Nepal and 3 didn't use supplemental oxygen. There were 11 deaths. Everest is actually getting safer even though more people are now climbing. From 1923 to 1999: 170 people died on Everest with 1,169 summits or 14.5%. But the deaths drastically declined from 2000 to 2019 with 8,988 summits and 134 deaths or 1.5%. However, three years skewed the deaths rates with 17 in 2014, 14 in 2015 and 11 in 2019. The reduction in deaths is primarily due to better gear, weather forecasting and more people climbing with commercial operations. Of the 8000 meter peaks, Everest has the highest absolute number of deaths at 304 but ranks near the bottom with a death rate of 1.17. Annapurna is the most deadly 8000er with one death for about every four summits (72:298) or a 3.84 death rate. Cho Oyu is the safest with 3,845 summits and 52 deaths or a death rate of 0.55. see more facts here See more pictures of the Best of Everest

Khumbu Ice Fall to C1 click to enlarge map

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This picture shows the lower third of the ice fall as seen from Base Camp. There is still twice as much to climb at the top of this photo. The route changes each day since the glacier is constantly moving. Lhotse's summit is peeking out on the top right above the icefall. 3-6 hours, 1.62 miles one way

The Khumbu Ice Fall is a 2,000 foot climb on a moving glacier complete with deep crevasses and towering seracs. Climbers step over the crevasses on aluminum ladders with crampons on their boots. More people have died in the Icefall than anywhere else on Everest's south side in recent years. In 2014 an ice serac released off the West Shoulder of Everest onto the Khumbu Icefall killing 16 Sherpas - the worst single incident tragedy in the history of Everest on either side. In 2015, the Icefall Doctors took the route more towards Nuptse in hopes that future similar events would not hit climbers. It is the first step in climbing Everest. Narrative

The Icefall is ever-changing and ever-moving. In my four times climbing Everest, it was different each time and during the climbs themselves. I have now been through the Icefall about 40 times.



Climbers start before sunrise to minimize the movement of the glacier heating up with sunrise and mid-day heat. This means a 3:00AM wake-up call and a quick breakfast. The first time climbers are probably already awake with anticipation or just because they are still not used to sleeping at 17.500'. They dress in layers but not too many because it can be warm: long underwear, shell pants and light top, a shell jacket and a warm jacket in the pack for breaks. Good leather gloves, sunglasses, headlamp and warm cap top things off. They eat as much as they can at the early breakfast, top off water bottles (not hydration packs since they freeze) and put harness on then start heading towards the icefall. Depending on where their camp is located at Everest Base Camp, this can take 10 to 30 minutes to reach the last flat section, Crampon Point, where they attach their crampons to their boots.



The first section is pretty much a continuous climb that undulates wildly. Sometimes it is a 60 degree climb, others a more gentle 20 degree. After an hour in a "normal" year climbers reach the first ladder. The first time crossing a long ladder can be interesting but it gets simple as time goes on.



Breathing is heavy and labored the first couple of trips. Using a Buff is mandatory since it warms their breath and helps manage the Khumbu cough.

There are huge seracs that teeter above climbers threatening to fall at any moment. Climbers are now in the section known as the Popcorn. It is common to hear a loud crash, an avalanche in the Icefall or maybe one of those towering seracs falling. Instinctively climbers lower their shoulders and raise their arms over their head. More than likely it was off their route since the Icefall Doctors are careful to avoid the sections of the Icefall where most of these crashes happen or are exposed to Everest's West shoulder's hanging seracs.



Next climbers reach a flat section known as the football field. A large area of flat hard packed snow. This is where they take a break, drink some water, slow their breathing and eat something. This is about halfway up and it has taken at least two hours, probably three the first time up. It should be sunrise but climbers are on the West side of the Icefall and the sun does not hit this are until 9:00 at the earliest. It can be cold if the wind is blowing so most people throw on a down parka during the break. More of the same for another two or three hours. Sherpas returning from the previous day, or even that same morning, of load carrying to the High Camps occupy the route. They had loads that made climbers feel like a wimp. Climbers struggle with their 20lb load and Sherpas scoot by them with their 60 to 100 pound loads. Respect for these special people grow not because of their strength but because of their completeness.



The next section is the Upper Icefall but it fools climbers because think they see the top of the Icefall before realizing there is more to go. The final section always involves steeper ladders and sharper grades. It usually takes four to six hours to cover the 1.62 miles and climbers get faster as their acclimatization increases. At the top of the Icefall, the terrain becomes a flat expanse of snow that leads into the Western Cwm. Camp 1 is still another half to full hour from here. See more pictures of the Khumbu Icefall Western Cwm between C1 and C2

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Western Cwm route from Camp 1 (top triangle) to Camp 2 (bottom triangle) as seen from Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face. This area is heavily crevassed and smart teams rope up or always stay clipped into the fixed rope. It takes about 2-3 hours to walk from C1 to C2 and it can be extremely hot. 2-3 hours, 1.74 miles one way



Atop the Ice Fall is Camp 1 serving as a weigh station to the Western Cwm and Camp 2. The Cwm is a 'U' shaped valley carved out by the Khumbu glacier. Everest is on the North (left), Lhotse is directly ahead and Nuptse is on the right or South. The Cwm is straightforward but has several dangers. First it is hot. Temperatures can easily reach 100 degrees Fahrenheit. The sun is reflected by the snow and ice covered walls of the valley and lightly filtered at this 22,000 foot altitude. Then there are the crevasses. Some are crossed on ladders but others remain hidden by thin snow bridges. It was on one of these bridges that I fell into a deep crevasse in 2002. Camp 2 sits on the most Eastern point of Cwm and serves as Advanced Base Camp and a launching pad for the summit. Narrative



Climbers still cannot actually see Everest until they go another quarter mile up the Western Cwm, they do have a spectacular view of Pumori and other 7000m hills behind them. I have already described climbing the IceFall so here is a description of the last steps to Camp 1. Once climbers top the Icefall there is a large flat expanse of snow on the western end of the Western Cwm. It looks easy but they are tired. Camp 1 is not visible from the top of the Icefall. There are normally five to 8 ladders in this area along with a fixed rope. Climbers are told to always attach themselves to the rope and be extra careful in this area. There is a tendency to relax their guard but now is not the time. The walk to C1 has a gradual gain but climbers will still be breathing hard. Anywhere from half to a full hour later, the sight of yellow, red or green tents on the pure white snow come into view. But also a large part of the Cwm unfolds in front of climbers. While not all of it is visible, climbers can see Nuptse on their right, Lhotse ahead and Everest on their left. Most climbers don't notice all this since they are focused on getting into their tents and having a brew and some food. Normally each tent prepares their own food at this camp so it starts to feel like a real climb at last. IMG had a large cooking tent where we all gathered and Sherpas boiled water for us.



Next is the climb to C2 in the Western Cwm. It is about 1.74 miles from Camp 1 to Camp 2 with an altitude gain of 1,500'. So it is not far and not that high but ... it is hot, very hot if they travel in mid day. So most leave Camp 1 at 6:00 AM or earlier. The sun reflects off the walls of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse's snow covered slopes making the temperature rise above 100F degrees. Then it can be brutally cold if the cloud moves in, the wind picks up and it starts snowing. Layers are important for this section. Camp 2 seems like a mirage throughout the walk, never getting closer. The last half hour is the most mentally challenging. The route goes up in angle and once in Camp 2 proper, it can be the steepest walk because the tents are set up along a rising rock gully. If your the camp is at the top of the gully, it can be a very long final half hour. See more pictures of the Western Cwm

Lhotse Face to C3

click to enlarge map Route from Camp 2 (lower left triangle) to Camp 3 (upper triangle) up the Lhotse Face, across the yellow band and up the Geneva Spur to the South Col. Climbers must be clipped into the fixed line at all times to avoid falling resulting in injury or death. 3-6 hours, 1.64 miles one way The next stage is the Lhotse Face, Lhotse is the fourth highest peak in the world at 27,920 feet. The face is a steep wall of hard packed ice and snow that holds Camp 3. Climbers climb the Lhotse face twice during the attempt on the summit. First as an acclimatization climb and then on the way to the summit. It is not uncommon for someone to die on the Face. The steep angle and hard ice make it difficult to get a grip with their crampons. Climbers must be clipped into the fixed line at all times - even while at Camp 3. Narrative



Climbing the Lhotse Face is a big challenge after the Khumbu Ice Fall on the way to the summit. There are usually two ropes, an up and a down, attached to the face with ice screws and anchors. Each rope is about 200' long so climbers must unclip their carabineers and jumars at the junctions. This is a two step process so that the climber is always attached to the fixed line by at least one device. It is very normal for a long line of climbers to be going up and another long line coming down - usually Sherpas returning from carrying loads to the higher camps. So, in the middle of the Himalayas, climbers have a traffic jam! The angle can be very steep especially just above the base or the bergschrund and again near the top most camps. By steep, I mean 40 to 50 degrees. This can be extremely tiring.



Depending on the weather, the Face is usually rock hard blue ice. Climbers have to kick their crampon points into the ice stealing precious strength with each step. After a few weeks, the path is fairly well set due to the thousands of kicks into the ice but one storm can have climbers starting all over again. There are usually two or three levels of camps because flat areas are at a premium and Sherpas need a somewhat flat area to carve out tent platforms. In 2011, there were three "Camp 3's" ranging from 23,500 to 24,000'.



The final few hundred feet into Camp 3 are difficult for almost everyone. climbers are very tired, probably dehydrated and on steep terrain. However once in their tent, the views are amazing on a clear day! See more pictures of the Lhotse Face Yellow Band and Geneva Spur to C4

click to enlarge map Route from Camp 3 to the South Col. Across the Yellow Band and to the left up the Geneva Spur. This is the first time most climbers start to use bottled oxygen. The climbing and Yellow Band is not technically hard but climbers are approaching 8000m. 3-6 hours, 0.8 miles one way From Camp 3, on the way to the summit, climbers must cross the yellow band and the Geneva Spur on the way to the South Col. These barriers, while not technically difficult, are a challenge at an altitude of 25,000 feet and 6 weeks of expedition life. The South Col is another world. Sitting between Everest and Lhotse at 26,300 feet, it serves as the base for the summit attempt. Climbers don't spend long here since the weather is always temporary and the altitude destructive. Normally it is 8 to 12 hours depending how long the climb from Camp 3 took. Once there, they eat and rest and then go to the summit. Narrative Let's take a look at the climb above C3 and onto the South Col. The terrain starts out fairly steep from C3. Most climbers are on supplemental oxygen and leave their tents after sunrise. It can be extremely cold before the sun moves over Lhotse or if the winds are the least bit strong, it can be miserable. But as soon as the sun hits, and there are no clouds, then it can become horribly hot. Many climbers are in their full down suits trying to minimize the weight in their packs. After about a couple of hours they approach the Yellow Band,a strip of limestone that cuts through the Himalayas in this area. They leave snow and climb on smooth rocks at a 20 to 30 degree angle. This is only for about 100 - 300 feet depending on the route that year but it takes concentration. The fixed ropes are a huge asset here. A jam usually occurs in this area if several teams are going for the summit on the same day. Once clear of the Band, it somewhat flattens out until the bottom of the ridge defining the South Col. This is actually on the Geneva Spur. Climbers are a little weary at this point more from the altitude than anything else so when they see Geneva Spur's 150' of 40 degree rock, ice and snow, it causes a long pause. But it is actually easier than it looks. From all the traffic, there are steps but also the uneven rock allows for good foot placement. In low snow years, this area may be snow free and most Sherpas and some climbers remove their crampons to make it easier. Topping the ridge, climbers follow a rocky "path" worn by other climbers and soon step on the South Col proper - an area the size of two football fields with ten or twenty or thirty tents huddled together on the west end. But most climber notice the tents second - after they see the actual summit pyramid of Mount Everest for the first time. See more pictures of the South Col and above