PassTime Fish House mostly earns its 'almost famous' title | Review

Lindsey McClave | Special to Courier Journal

Show Caption Hide Caption PassTime Fish House is a satisfying secret Tucked back off Watterson Trail, PassTime Fish House combined classic seafood with dive bar fare.

Tucked back on Locust Road off Watterson Trail, one would be forgiven for having sped right past PassTime Fish House’s blink-and-you’ll-miss-it location; and something tells me the owners are OK with that.

Save for a sign placed just off the main drag, PassTime is solidly hidden from view — the dive bar vibe is strong for this place that is sure to have its fair share of devoted regulars. With a closing time of 8 or 9 p.m., PassTime is decidedly more restaurant than bar, their self proclaimed ‘Almost Famous’ cod fish sandwich drawing a dedicated following.

I can’t say it was almost famous enough to make the trek to this side of town worthwhile on a regular basis, however, if I were in the area and craving a well-seasoned, crispy cod filet struck, I would know just where to go.

We were greeted by a blanket of warm air upon arrival at PassTime — the din of large fans running on high taking the edge off the otherwise stuffy interior dining space. Owner Tommy Pass was the sole figure behind the bar, pouring beers and coordinating orders with the kitchen with a casual efficiency. He made sure we knew of the restaurant’s cash only policy right off the bat, although an ATM is on hand for anyone who may arrive unaware.

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Those with a dollar left to spare may be tempted to add it to the ever growing wallpaper of bills behind the bar with a signature scrawled across the face of each donation. Various sports jerseys and Jeffersontown relics are scattered about the rectangular room, a pool table and several unplugged arcade games situated in a small alcove off to the side.

Given the lack of air conditioning, the decision to eat outside on the covered front deck was an easy one. Orders are placed with Tommy at the bar and then delivered to tables as they come up from the kitchen. Our bowl of homemade bean soup ($4) was the first to arrive. It was a chipped bowl holding a classic and straightforward, albeit under-salted, soup with beans left whole as well as mashed into the broth, adding a touch of depth. I recommend saying yes to a garnish of raw, chopped onions but turning down the shredded cheddar (both available for an extra 50 cents).

Next up were the fish bites ($6.75), small strips of catfish rolled in a salt and pepper infused cornmeal crust. They were fried until just tender, the breading boasting an appealing, well-seasoned crunch. The fried shrimp ($9.95) were equally appealing. The shrimp were plump and clearly handbreaded and the floury outer layer was just coating the shellfish, allowing them to remain the star of each bite.

The pan-fried oysters ($9.95) were a different story, unfortunately. While the breading application was once again judicious, the oysters themselves had a mealy mouthfeel, making for a highly off-putting bite. Needless to say the majority of the order went untouched.

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The same cannot be said for our cod fish sandwich ($7.50). As previously mentioned, this menu highlight is denoted as "almost famous." Ample in size, the filet of cod arrived sprawled over a single slice of white bread (rye and wheat are also available). No adornments or accompaniments save a bag of potato chips and a slim pickle spear. The application of the cornmeal crust is what almost sets this fish sandwich apart. The breading fully encasing the cod and possessing plenty of flavor. The cornmeal is not over milled, allowing for great texture to remain, while the fish is flaky and light in contrast.

Appropriately simple in construction, this fish sandwich is indeed good, if not quite famous.

PassTime’s menu is rounded out with classic dive bar fare including buffalo wings, loaded French fries, a burger and deli sandwiches available for those who would prefer to pass on a fish dinner. We couldn’t resist adding a J-Town ribeye ($3.50) to our order. This cheekily named sandwich is constructed with a healthy slice of well-griddled bologna and fully dressed with onion, tomato and lettuce.

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In a city that is home to its fair share of well-executed fried fish sandwiches, PassTime puts up a good showing. Not the best but most certainly worlds away from the worst. The ‘almost famous’ denotation is an apropos descriptor for this down home, local’s joint off J-Town’s beaten path.

Reach freelance restaurant critic Lindsey McClave at lindsey@foodie-girl.com.

PASSTIME FISH HOUSE

Rating: 2.5 out of 4 stars

Address: 10801 Locust Road

Telephone: 502-267-4633

Website: passtime-fish-house.business.site

Cuisine: Bar fare with a focus on fried fish

Children’s Menu: No formal menu but many child-friendly options available

Alcohol: Beer only

Vegetarian: Minimal vegetarian-friendly options

Price Range: Inexpensive

Reservations: No

Credit Cards: No, cash only, ATM on site

Smoking: No

Access: Restaurant is not fully handicap accessible

Parking: Available in dedicated lot

Hours: Monday and Tuesday, 11 a.m.- 8 p.m.; Wednesday-Friday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.; Saturday, 12-9 p.m.; and Sunday, 1-8 p.m.