1. A NEW GRAND CRU

Randall Grahm isn’t going gently into the future. Owner of Bonny Doon Vineyard, creator of Big House Red, and an irrepressible wine pontificator (see “Been Doon So Long,” his 318-page “Vinthology,” or his tweets @RandallGrahm), Grahm has spent 35 years trying to make Old World-style wines in California. By his own standards, he has failed.

The...