In Wilmington, we discovered the exuberantly restored Grand (Opera House) scrubbed into a shine. We nodded to the Queen, now home of WXPN's World Cafe Live. We stopped inside the quiet parenthesis of Willington Square - a "representative" courtyard of mid-18th-century brick houses that had been uprooted and relocated to suggest the city's mercantile past. We headed toward the train station, the Tubman-Garrett Riverfront Park, and (at last and again) the Christina herself and all that has been set down beside her. The Penn Cinema. The Chase Center. The Delaware Center for the Contemporary Arts. The Delaware Theatre Company. Restaurants. A collection of painted birdhouses sits along the river walk - fanciful, inviting. The old stuff of the city's shipbuilding past has been restored. And in the Riverfront Market - a revitalized warehouse built of thick walls and massive timbers - the commerce of the day was getting done.