In general terms, all finger techniques are equally good. However, different techniques suite different climbers, holds, angles and rock. Most climbers have a dominated finger position and this position is therefore trained frequently, meanwhile the abandoned techniques are getting weaker. A balanced gripping repertoire is the key factor for any top-climber. Introduction article-2002!



Open hand Open crimp - Often weak Closed crimp

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our preferred technique usually depends on where and how you began to climb. If you started out on verticals with crimpers you are probably strong in a, while if you started out on steep indoor bouldering your strongest position is. Climbers that have started out on small limestone pockets and slopers, like in Fontainebleau, are often very skilled in

T he good thing is that, through recruitment training of your finger muscles, it is relatively easy to adapt and increase the strength of the different finger positions. In bouldering, you have probably noticed that you feel stronger by the number of tries. This is in fact partly due to recruitment. For each try, more muscle fibre is being used and coordinated.



