In my own experience, as well as in my experience with clients, Limit (or Max) Bouldering is a tough exercise for many people to connect with, and is probably the most misunderstood exercise in your training plan. Ironically, for most of us, it is also the most important.

By definition, we need to be at our limit, but we've cultivated a mindset of needing to "send" or go to the top every try. As such, it's a struggle to get people (including myself) to remain focused on a single move or short sequence that defines that limit. Exploring the top end of your abilities can be an extremely frustrating endeavor for even the most experienced, most dedicated climbers. I've had entire training seasons in which I didn't send a single hard boulder in the gym.

Those were my most successful.

To improve your climbing you don't need a modern big gym, so we filmed on a wall that is only 8 feet tall, in a tiny space, and detailed how an effective Limit Bouldering session should look. In fact, it could be to your advantage to NOT have a huge bouldering wall in front of you for these sessions.

Enough about that... you can just watch the video!

Your friends may not understand why you aren't trying to send all the boulders, but they'll wish they had followed suit when you're the one making big progress.

