But it's the Festa de São Gonçalo, held in Amarante over the first weekend of June, that sees the real penis cake action take place. Kids clutch candy floss, the townspeople lightly tap their feet to the sound of rhythmic drums (the vibe is more village fete than Rio Carnival), and bunting made from paper penises (or is it penii? I find myself wondering) flaps suggestively in the breeze. Women wearing checked tabards and serious expressions offer me cakes in every shape and size, from foot-long phallic feasts to little plastic bags of "fun size" pastry penises that I can't help but stock up on as souvenirs.