Harvey may have pushed back its launch a week, but chef Chris Shepherd's One Fifth Romance Languages is open for business in Montrose.

One Fifth is the follow-up to the James Beard Award winner's highly successful Underbelly a few blocks away. Debuting days before Super Bowl LI, the restaurant first caused a stir among foodies due to its unusual concept. Concepts, rather, which are set to change annually through 2021. Its first iteration was a steakhouse. The new French, Spanish and Italian focus will run through the end of July 2018, then switch to seafood Sept. 1, 2018.

ALISON COOK'S REVIEW OF ONE FIFTH STEAK: CHRIS SHEPHERD IS HAVING FUN AND YOU CAN TASTE IT.

Housed in a 1927 brick church, formerly Mark's American Cuisine, the design of the 158-seat space has been tweaked for Romance Languages, though the set-up is the same with seating in the main dining area, upstairs in the choir loft and at both main and raw bars. A soft palette of fabrics has been draped over the formerly industrial grid on the vaulted ceiling, and a new Art Nouveau-style awning has been installed over the main bar.

As for the food? Expect some Shepherd-style twists and turns.

Shepherd garnered acclaim for his whole-animal, hyper-local ingredient focus at Underbelly, but he also is well-versed in Spanish and French cuisine — he was executive chef at the late Catalan restaurant on Washington Avenue for four years, and was trained in French technique. He spent two weeks in Italy this summer to bone up on that country's foodways.

The a la carte menu is separated into courses. The kitchen, under the day-to-day direction of chef de cuisine Nick Fine, sends out appetizers such as a Spain-inspired potato tortilla graced with Hackleback caviar; charred octopus with squid chicharrones; and a beyond-rich snail pot pie. Second, there's pasta: a flavorful duck heart bolognese dolloped with whipped ricotta; a tripe alla Romana with polenta from Circle S Farm in Cypress; braised rabbit-laced gnocchi; and the all-important classic carbonara involving house-made guanciale, pecorino and local farm egg. Entrees range from beef cheek bourgogne and chicken roulade to Suckling Pig Presse; desserts might incorporate marzipan or Italian hazelnuts.

Of course, in addition to raw bar options fans of One Fifth Steak might recognize, there are a few over-the-top choices to feed a hungry group,: paella with fideo pasta, shellfish and chorizo, as well as a maniacal, hearth-roasted 36-ounce bone-in rib-eye that comes saddled with foie gras and truffle. The pièce de résistance — literally labeled as such on the menu — is the $190 Big Dog Tower, Romance Language's answer to the steakhouse's popular Baller Board. The grand, three-tiered affair merges seafood tower and charcuterie plate: raw oysters, tins of seafood salad (think King crab Louie; shrimp and chorizo; mussels escabeche), King crab legs; proscuitto, bresaola, foie gras torchon, pate and terrine.

The wine list is long on Old World juice from France, Spain and Italy, with some Austrian, German and New World options in the mix. Cocktails involve European spirits such as cognac and grappa. American whiskey remains plentiful.

Shepherd co-owns One Fifth with Houston Texans linebacker Whitney Mercilus, Kevin Floyd of Hay Merchant fame and Steve Flippo.

One Fifth Romances Languages is at 1658 Westheimer. It is open Tuesday through Saturday, 5-11 p.m.; Sunday and Monday 5-10 p.m. For reservations visit onefifthhouston.com.