When I was growing up, I wanted to be Sam from the sci-fi series Quantum Leap, travelling through time to wake up in a new city with a new adventure. In 2015, I got a chance to feel a bit like him while on a north American book tour: in New York, I met Madhur Jaffrey; in Toronto, I got lost in vast Asian markets; and in San Francisco, I danced at a block party and ate tacos in the Mission district. They practically vibrated in my hands with flavour and personality, from the zingy salsa and the spicy vegetables to the hot, soft tortillas. Which are just the sort of vibrations I need now, in January 2020.

Cauliflower and sweet potato tacos with coriander chilli salsa

You don’t have to char the chillies for the salsa, but it gives them a milder, smokier and more rounded flavour. Tortillas vary in size and quality – my preference is for smaller, hand-sized ones such as those from Gran Luchito.

Prep 15 min

Cook 40 min

Makes 12, to serve 4

For the coriander chilli salsa

2 jalapeño chillies

½ red onion, chopped into ½cm dice

50g coriander leaves, very finely chopped

4 tbsp fresh lime juice (ie, from 3 or 4 limes)

¾ tsp fine sea salt

For the roast vegetable filling

1 large cauliflower (about 800g), cut into small florets

1 large sweet potato (around 400g), peeled and cut into 2½cm pieces

5 tbsp rapeseed oil

2 tsp ground chipotle

2 tsp ground cinnamon

2 tsp fine sea salt

For the black bean puree

1 x 400g tin black beans

1 tsp ground chipotle

½ tsp fine sea salt

12 small tortilla wraps, to serve

Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7. To make the salsa, hold one of the chillies in a pair of tongs over a small gas flame until charred thoroughly (if you don’t have an open flame on the cooker, grill the chillies instead, until blackened), then put on a plate, repeat with the other chilli and leave to cool.

Put the onion, coriander, lime juice and salt in a small bowl. Once the chillies have cooled down, finely chop and mix into the salsa. Taste and adjust if need be.

Line two large baking trays with greaseproof paper. Put the cauliflower and sweet potato in a large bowl, add the oil, spices and salt, and toss with your hands to coat. Transfer the vegetables to the baking trays, spread out in a single layer, and roast for 35 minutes, until tender and slightly charred.

While the vegetables are roasting, make the black bean puree. Drain the beans, reserving the liquid from the tin, then blend four tablespoons of the liquid with the beans, chipotle and salt, until smooth. Transfer to a small bowl.

When the vegetables are almost ready, heat the tortillas according to the packet instructions. Transfer the vegetables to a bowl and put on the table with the salsa and black bean bowls. To build the tacos, smudge a tablespoon of black beans on to a warm tortilla, top with roast vegetables and finish with a spoonful of salsa.