PEAK WINTER ROUTE(S)/NOTES

Mount Massive East Ridge- The East Ridge route from the Fish Hatchery is the most popular route in the winter. A trail is commonly broken to the Colorado Trail by recreational skiers and snowshoers. From there, rolling, possibly confusing, terrain brings you to the East Ridge. We found strenuous trail breaking thru exceptionally deep powder in this section in February 2012. Wind scoured terrain makes the final 2000' vertical go quickly. Expect a long, full day. Winter TH's: Fish Hatchery- From Third and US 24 in downtown Leadville, go 3.6 miles Southwest on 24 to CO 300. Turn west and go ~3 miles to the Fish Hatchery, on your left. Stay left in the Hatchery until you find the TH for the Colorado Trail, and eventually Mount Massive, it's in the back.

Mount Harvard Short and easy in the summer, Harvard tosses aside these characteristics when the winter snows lie deep. Expect to work hard for this Sawatch giant! South Ridge- Is there a standard winter route on Harvard? If so, this technically easy way might be the leading candidate. North Cottonwood Creek Road is a popular place with skiers and snowmobilers, but expect to be on your own upon leaving the road. We found Horn Fork Basin to be a unrelenting wallow, below and above treeline, in December 2012 and 2016 as Columbia blocks the wind from blowing excess snow over its flanks. Come prepared for 16-20 miles of hard work. East Ridge- Shorter than the South Ridge, this route has gained popularity over the past few winters. The 4wd road leads one all the way from the Arkansas River Valley to the Colorado Trail intersection, and a potential spot for high camp(~11,000'). A couple spooky spots lurk near/at treeline, but solid route finding choices are helpful in avoiding them altogether. Scrambling on the Upper East Ridge is the route's crux as the snow covered slabs may force one onto the avalanche prone North or South Face at times. Use your own judgment in determining which passages are safe under the current conditions. In February 2017, we were able to rock hop under the crux tower without worrying about open, loaded slopes lurking lower on Harvard's impressive South Face. This option may not have been available after the next storm. Some parties may appreciate a rope here. Winter TH's: Harvard Lakes- Plowing stops at the National Forest Boundary, 5.4 miles from the stoplight in Buena Vista. Expect to add up to 2.4 miles RT to this approach in winter. It has been possible to drive to Harvard Lakes at times in past winters. Use your own judgment. North Cottonwood- 1.6 miles further down Chaffee County 365 from the Harvard Lakes, this TH is not typically reachable in winter. Expect to add up to 5.6 miles RT to this approach during winter. This road is frequently packed down by snowmobilers. Frenchmen Creek- FS 386 is plowed for 0.3 miles from its intersection with US 24. Expect to add up to 2.8 miles RT to your outing.

Blanca Peak Unlike the other fourteeners in the Sierra Blancas, Blanca is normally a mild climb during the winter months. The North Ridge presents an obvious path to the summit and the commonly rocky Northwest Face may be a feasible option if avalanche conditions are reasonable. The slope leading to the Blanca-Ellingwood Point saddle can be problematic, and holds potential avalanche concerns. Also, this is a long, exposed hike and one should come prepared for an overnight adventure. Winter TH's: Lake Como Road- The infamous Lake Como Road is one the greatest variables when climbing in the Western Sierra Blancas during the winter. It's not plowed, and the snow closure is continuously changing. Many parties are able to drive to the 8800' and 9700' obstacles in winter. We were able to drive ~10,400', just short of Jaws I in March 2006. Also, infrequently parties find major storms have blocked the road at CO 150 turnoff, 6.8 miles short of Lake Como. These final two examples are exceptions from the norm.

Uncompahgre Peak East Slopes- Uncompahgre's standard winter route is typically very safe. Minor route adjustments are necessary to avoid certain slopes during unsafe conditions. The final, east facing slope to reach the upper plateau can be dangerous after big storms. 15 miles, 5000' vertical RT. West Face- This scree-loaded slog may be Uncompahgre's safest winter route upon reaching the upper mountain. Choose any route thru the scree. The large snow gully on the climber's left may be passable or hazardous. Use your own judgment. Getting to this route involves traveling many more miles than the Nellie Creek approach and crossing multiple, potentially dangerous avalanche paths in Matterhorn Creek Drainage. Winter TH's: Nellie Creek- The Nellie Creek 4wd road is not plowed during winter, but is popular with snowmobilers. Expect a hike of 15 miles and 5000' vertical. Winter Uncompahgre and Wetterhorn Climb, January 2015

Mount Belford Northwest Ridge- This mellow, enjoyable route in the quickest, easiest route to Belford's summit in winter. There's an enormous avalanche chute coming off Pecks Peak at treeline, but it usually doesn't hold any substantial snow. There are also several chutes to the west of Missouri Basin that have slid with a heavy snowpack. The remainder of the route is avy safe. Winter TH's- Belford and Oxford Missouri Gulch- Plowing on Chaffee County 390 stops 4 miles from US 24, 3.7 miles short of the TH. Expect to add up to 7.4 miles RT to your outing. This is a popular road with snowmobilers, and aggressive drivers. I wouldn't be surprised if you're able to shave a couple miles off your hike by following someone else's tracks.

Mount Princeton The standard route is a fairly safe winter climb, but stay directly on the ridgetop rather than the road between the radio towers and Tigger Peak. This is quite tedious, especially if you are breaking trail, but this route avoids the avalanche chutes. Also be aware that reaching the Chalet on Mount Princeton requires crossing a big avalanche chute. Unless avalanche danger is low, bringing a tent (if overnighting) is recommended.

Mount Oxford West Slopes- On Belford, why not Oxford also? This route is possibly the easiest way to Oxford's summit in winter. Most parties find a clear, windblown saddle between the two. In February 2012, I spent 2.5 hours slogging thru quad deep snow while adding on Oxford. Hopefully you'll find snowless tundra on your route! East Ridge- Starting from the Colorado Trail access point on Chaffee County 350, Oxford's most straightforward, shortest route may not be the easiest way to go. Multiple parties have reported hours and hours of bottomless wallowing!

Mount Lindsey You can drive to the Singing River Ranch in winter and from there it’s a fairly long climb. The route is said to have moderate to low avalanche danger as long as you stick close to the ridge on the later part of the route. The ridge can have some tricky scrambling in winter.

Mount of the Holy Cross Holy Cross is a technically easy mountain in winter and fairly safe, but the climb physically hard and demanding because of the road closures. The crux of the standard route is getting down from Halfmoon Pass to Cross Creek and then back up again. Other than the area between Halfmoon Pass and Cross Creek, there isn't much avalanche danger, but since there is little traffic in winter, expect to break trail the entire way. Going up Cross Creek from that trailhead is another alternative.