By daybreak the army had erected a 15-foot-high makeshift white flagpole on a low dais in the center of the city's central square, Lal Chowk, and covered it with orange, brown and red Kashmiri carpets. At the flagpole's tip, a tightly folded Indian flag dangled from a halyard.

Then, less than an hour before Mr. Joshi was due to arrive, there were two thunderous explosions, which the army said appeared to be detonations of rockets fired by guerrilla groups.

Suddenly, two olive-drab army buses lumbered into the square, which was empty except for soldiers and a small crowd of journalists. About 70 of Mr. Joshi's supporters stepped gingerly from the buses, uneasily eyeing the huge military presence.

Four white sedans sped into the square, and Mr. Joshi, in a traditional Kashmiri feran, or woolen cape, and saffron scarf, hurried toward the flagpole. He began waving an Indian flag, which he tried to mount on a collapsible flagpole that a supporter supplied. But as followers pushed to get close, the pole broke in several places and the flag tumbled down onto Mr. Joshi. National Anthem Is Sung

Undetterred, he moved to the army's flagpole and tugged on the halyard, unbundling the flag above him, releasing a shower of yellow, blue and red confetti that had been folded with the banner. Then he and his followers sang the national anthem, bringing even the soldiers to precise attention.

Moments later, Mr. Joshi was hustled back to his car and rushed to the air force helicopter that was to carry him home. He was in Lal Chowk for exactly 11 minutes.

Before boarding the helicopter, Mr. Joshi declared that he had accomplished his mission.

"The people of Kashmir," he said, "have understood the message that the country is behind the idea of national unity and solidarity, and it is useless to fight against democratic forces of the country. They will understand that it is no use to take to the politics of the gun. It is of no use to be misguided by a neighboring country." Rebels Derides Visit