East & West Coast Explorer Road Trip

From Auckland, embark on a circular route north of the city to uncover secluded and spectacular beaches, sophisticated vineyard restaurants and a menu of family-friendly activities.

Aucklanders are a lucky bunch, and this trip takes in some of their favourite day escapes from the energy and bustle of the city. Plan your route to be slightly more leisurely, and enjoy a few days blending virtue and vice by combining fine wine, beer and local markets with coastal bush walks, beaches and active adventure.



3 DAYS 317km/197 miles



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BEST TIME TO GO: February to April for leisurely vineyard lunches.



BEST FOR FAMILIES: View the underwater spectacle at Goat Island.



1. AUCKLAND



Before heading off on a journey where food, wine and markets are tasty features, explore the culinary scene of New Zealand's most diverse and cosmopolitan city. The best farmers market is at La Cigale, where stalls are laden with local goodies on weekend mornings. On Wednesday evenings, La Cigale becomes a food-truck stop, while on Thursdays and Fridays the space is converted into a quirky evening bistro serving simple rustic dishes.



The Drive » Head north on SH1 and turn left to Puhoi after the spectacular Johnstone Hills tunnels. Pay tolls ($2.30) for the Northern Gateway Toll Road on SH1 online at www.nzta.govt.nz. The total distance of this leg is 43km.



2. PUHOI



This quaint riverside village is a slice of the real Bohemia. In 1863, around 200 German-speaking immigrants from the present day Czech Republic settled in what was then dense bush. The Bohemian Museum tells the story of the hardship and perseverance of these original pioneers. Raise a glass to their endeavour and endurance at the character filled Puhoi Pub. Puhoi River Canoe Hire rents kayaks and Canadian canoe for an excellent downstream journey from the village to Wenderholm Regional Park.



The Drive » Continue north on SH1 and turn right just after Warkworth to negotiate wine country and pretty coastal coves to Matakana, 25km from Puhoi.

SHAUN JEFFERS/SHUTTERSTOCK The gannet colony at Muriwai Beach is well worth a look.

3. MATAKANA

Around 15 years ago, Matakana was a rural village with a handful of heritage buildings and an old-fashioned country pub. Now it's stylish wine bars and cafes are a weekend destination for day-tripping Aucklanders. An excellent Saturday morning farmers market is held in a shaded riverside location, and the area's boutique wineries are becoming renowned for pinot gris, merlot, syrah and a host of obscure varietals. A local arts scene is anchored by Morris & James, a well-established potters' workshop.

The Drive » Leave Matakana on Leigh Rd and continue through the seaside village of Leigh before turning right into Goat Island Rd. Twelve kilometres north of Matakana, Mathesons Bay is a secluded cove with good swimming. The total distance to Goat Island is 16km.

4. GOAT ISLAND

This 547-hectare aquatic area was established in 1975 as the country's first marine reserve and has now developed into a giant outdoor aquarium. Wade knee-deep into the water to see snapper, blue maomao and stripy parore. Excellent interpretive panels explain the area's Māori significance and provide pictures of the species you're likely to encounter. Hire snorkels and wetsuits from Goat Island Dive & Snorkel in Leigh or join a boat trip with Glass Bottom Boat Tours.

The Drive » Continue to Wellsford (34km) before taking SH16 to meander another 57km southwest through farmland and past Kaipara Harbour to Helensville.

5. HELENSVILLE

Heritage buildings, antique shops and cafes make village-like Helensville a good whistle-stop for those negotiating SH16. Energetic and relaxing activities also combine for an interesting destination that's perfect for adventurous families. At the Woodhill Mountain Bike Park 14km south of Helensville, challenging tracks career through the Woodhill Forest, and at Tree Adventures high-ropes courses include swinging logs, climbing nets and a flying fox.

Nearby Parakai Springs has thermally heated swimming pools, private spas and a couple of hydroslides.

The Drive » Continue south on SH16 to Waimauku (17km) and turn right for the 8km to Muriwai. Look forward to rolling pastures dotted with sheep, followed by a winding drive through the forest.

6. MURIWAI

A black-sand surf beach, Muriwai features the Takapu Refuge gannet colony. Viewing platforms get you close enough to watch these fascinating seabirds. Every August hundreds of adult birds return to this spot to hook up with their regular partners and get busy in spectacular (and noisy) displays of courting. The net result is a single chick per season; December and January are the best times to see them testing their wings before embarking on an impressive odyssey to Australia.

Nearby, two short tracks wind through beautiful native bush to a lookout that offers views along the 60km length of the beach. Note this wild beach is only safe for swimming when patrolled.

The Drive » Return to SH16 and turn right to Kumeu. Orchards and vineyards feature along this 16km route, and it's a good area to buy fresh fruit.

7. KUMEU

West Auckland's main wine-producing area still has some vineyards owned by the original Croatian families who kick-started NZ's wine industry. The fancy eateries that have mushroomed in recent years have done little to dint the relaxed farmland feel to the region, but everything to encourage an afternoon's indulgence on the way back from the beach or the hot pools.

The Drive » Depart Kumeu on Waitakere Rd and turn right into Bethells Rd after 10km. It's 12km further to Te Henga (Bethells Beach).

Reproduced with permission from the 1st edition of Lonely Planet's Auckland & The Bay of Islands Road Trips guidebook, researched and written by Brett Atkinson & Peter Dragicevich, © 2016. 8. TE HENGA (BETHELLS BEACH)

Breathtaking Bethells Beach is a raw, black-sand beach with surf, windswept dunes and walks, such as the popular one over giant sand dunes to Lake Wainamu. If you're keen to stay the night at this rugged and beautiful spot, enquire about glamping at Bethells Cafe.

The Drive » Leave Bethells Beach on Bethells Rd which veers into Te Henga Rd. Around 11km from Bethells Beach turn right into Scenic Dr and follow this winding bush-clad route before turning back towards the coast onto Piha Rd. This leg is 37km in total.

9. PIHA

This beautifully rugged, black-sand beach has long been a favourite for Aucklanders. Although Piha is popular, it's also incredibly dangerous with wild surf and strong undercurrents. Near the centre of the beach is Lion Rock, whose 'mane' glows golden in the evening light. It's actually the eroded core of an ancient volcano and a Māori pa (fortified village) site. At low tide you can watch the surf shooting through a ravine in another large rock known as The Camel.

The Drive » Piha Rd leads back into Scenic Dr, which continues through West Auckland suburbs to Titirangi, 25km from Piha.

10. TITIRANGI

This village marks the end of Auckland's suburban sprawl and is a good place to spot all manner of Westie stereotypes over a coffee, wine or cold beer. Once home to NZ's greatest modern painter, Colin McCahon, there remains an artsy feel to the place and the house he lived in during the 1950s has been opened to the public as a mini-museum. More art is on display at the Te Uru Waitakere Contemporary Gallery, an excellent modern gallery housed in the former Hotel Titirangi.

Titirangi means 'Fringe of Heaven' – an apt name given its proximity to the verdant Waitakere Ranges.

The Drive » From Titirangi, continue through the west Auckland suburbs of New Lynn and Avondale to rejoin the motorway (SH16) back to central Auckland, 17km from Titirangi, at Waterview.

* This is an extract from Auckland & the Bay of Islands Road Trips 1.