<div class="bbcode_center" style="text-align:center;"><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376759/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1376759" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376759/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 169px"></a></div>

<div class="bbcode_center" style="text-align:center;"><span style="font-size:36px;"><b>Razorless De-liding</b></span></div>

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Welcome to the short and sweet guide to delid your Intel Ivybridge 3570k/3770k CPU These steps were developed by the local user <a class="bbcode_url" href="http://www.overclock.net/u/337333/fnarfbargle">fnarfbargle</a><br><br>

Before we get started Here is an excellent place to read a few facts and to learn about the what,why, and how to(delid with a razor).<br><div class="bbcode_center" style="text-align:center;"><a class="bbcode_url" href="http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-ivy-bridge-club/0_20"><span style="font-size:16px;">[Official] Delidded Ivy Bridge Club</span></a></div>

<br><br><b><span style="font-size:16px;">Alright to begin with gotta have a disclaimer:<br>

We take no responsibility of your injures and the possibility of personal harm and destruction of your chip.</span></b><br><br><b>Doing any procedure where de-lidding is happening will obviously void your warranty.</b><br><br>

While delidding this way is "easier" it can leave marks/Indentations on the side of the IHS This will not harm the CPU but may interfere with any aftermarket coolers if the Indentations are severe enough.<br><span style="font-size:16px;"><br></span>

<a class="spoiler-link H-spoiler-toggle" href="#"><strong>What I mean when I say Indentations!</strong> <span class="spoiler-help">(Click to show)</span></a><div class="spoiler-hidden"><span style="font-size:16px;">Usually Caused by over tightening the vice<br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1377489/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1377489" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1377489/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 335px"></a><br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1377490/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1377490" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1377490/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 335px"></a><br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1377491/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1377491" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1377491/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 335px"></a></span></div>

<span style="font-size:16px;"><br><b>Now lets list what you need</b></span><br><br>

You need a Vice (could have rubber arms or metal its up to you, Personally just use what you have).

<a class="spoiler-link H-spoiler-toggle" href="#"><strong>Some Useful Advice from Jayjr1105 on how to choose your vice</strong> <span class="spoiler-help">(Click to show)</span></a><div class="spoiler-hidden">OK just some advice for people wanting to do this. I just tried 5 different Vice's in a shop and none of them would bite down on the CPU. (I am testing with a non soldered 775 Pentium). If the vice you use is an older vice with rounded off teeth, forget about doing it until you get a smaller electronics or precision vice. If a larger style shop vice is fairly new and still has good sharp corners on its jaw, that should be fine as well. You probably only have a 1/16 of an inch to bite down on.</div>

<a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376761/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1376761" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376761/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 335px"></a><br><br>

Second a hammer! Or "Calibrated Hammer" <img alt="biggrin.gif" class="bbcode_smiley" src="http://files.overclock.net/images/smilies/biggrin.gif"> (The Favorited tool of Jeremy Clarkson!).<br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376763/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1376763" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376763/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 335px"></a><br><br>

Some piece of extra wood (Needs to have a flat side)<br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376765/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1376765" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376765/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 335px"></a><br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376767/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1376767" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376767/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 335px"></a><br><br>

The Cpu (if you can guess which socket it comes from KUDOS to you) Hint: its not 1155 <img alt="biggrin.gif" class="bbcode_smiley" src="http://files.overclock.net/images/smilies/biggrin.gif"><br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376768/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1376768" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376768/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 335px"></a><br><br>

And your brain and judgement. <img alt="thumb.gif" class="bbcode_smiley" src="http://files.overclock.net/images/smilies/thumb.gif"><br><a class="spoiler-link H-spoiler-toggle" href="#"><strong>Here is a quick video by the man himself fnarfbargle</strong> <span class="spoiler-help">(Click to show)</span></a><div class="spoiler-hidden"></div>

<a class="spoiler-link H-spoiler-toggle" href="#"><strong>More Videos By Adopters of this technique!</strong> <span class="spoiler-help">(Click to show)</span></a><div class="spoiler-hidden">-Thanks to jamdox</div>

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Now onwards to the steps!<br><br><ol class="bbcode_list"><li>You want to make sure your vice is secure(you could have it mounted to something or just have someone holding it opposite to the direction you are hammering)</li>

<li>Proceed to clamp the IHS down Now you will find that your IHS has 2 "lips" or "ridges" you could clamp to, Now you want to clamp it on the ridge that is furthest away from the PCB(refer to pictures) You want to clamp it to the point where you can no longer move it by hand and it is secure. (Warning: Over tightening could lead to some Indentations left on your IHS Depending on the type of Vice).

<a class="spoiler-link H-spoiler-toggle" href="#"><strong>Some tips on how to align the CPU on the vice</strong> <span class="spoiler-help">(Click to show)</span></a><div class="spoiler-hidden">

<ul class="bbcode_list"><li>one suggestion, I see most have been placing the chip with the long axis of the die in line with the strike direction. it may be better to place the cpu in the vise with the long axis of the die perpendicular just in case it whacks the far side of the IHS. Unlikely, but worked well in this direction too. - Thanks To Jpmboy<br></li>

<li>Took longer to get to the garage than I spent in it... This is a fantastic idea. I'm not sure if it was mentioned or not, but I would recommend placing the cpu in the vice so that the two little tabs/ears on the lid are resting on top of the jaws. This places the core(under the lid) parallel to the vice jaws. This way, when the lid starts to come loose and shift, it has more room to do so before hitting the core. Not that you should be hitting it THAT hard anyway... - Thanks to dbranger94</li>

</ul></div>

<a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376783/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1376783" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376783/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 335px"></a><br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376784/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1376784" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376784/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 335px"></a></li>

<li>Now after you have securely clamped it, You then want to pick up the piece of wood, Line up the flat side Horizontally against the PCB (see picture)<br><a class="H-lightbox-open" href="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376803/"><img alt="" class="lightbox-enabled" data-id="1376803" data-type="61" src="http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1376803/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL" style="; width: 500px; height: 335px"></a></li>

<li>Finally take the hammer and give it a few good solid whacks, If you have it clamped securely the CPU should not come loose, in an event that it should come loose then re-clamp it and proceed after a few good solid hits the PCB will separate from the IHS.</li>

</ol><a class="spoiler-link H-spoiler-toggle" href="#"><strong>Some Optional Tips!</strong> <span class="spoiler-help">(Click to show)</span></a><div class="spoiler-hidden">

<ul class="bbcode_list"><li>Suggest adding a longish adhesive tape to the PCB and the vice to reduce the risks of flying objects and damage, should help some what. - Thank you MacClipper</li>

</ul></div>

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After you have Separated the IHS form the CPU You would need to "scrape" the glue/adhesive Off both the PCB and the IHS, Using a credit card worked great for me! For more tips on how to do this, Refer the the Delidded Club( linked above)<br><br>

Here is a quick video I did on my 3770k Excuse me as I was quite nervous lol.<br><a class="spoiler-link H-spoiler-toggle" href="#"><strong>Here is a quick video I did on my 3770k Scraping off the Adhesive and how to apply CLU to the CPU die. Excuse me as I was quite nervous lol.</strong> <span class="spoiler-help">(Click to show)</span></a><div class="spoiler-hidden"></div>

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After "Scraping off the Adhesive you then proceed to apply TIM to the CPU die The most recommended TIM to apply on the die is Coollabroatory Ultra/pro here are some links on where to buy!<br><a class="spoiler-link H-spoiler-toggle" href="#"><strong>USA Links and I think International(Thanks to iwalkwithedead and WiSK for finding these links!)</strong> <span class="spoiler-help">(Click to show)</span></a><div class="spoiler-hidden"><a href="http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10740/thr-77/Coollaboratory_Liquid_Ultra_100_Metal_Thermal_Interface_Material.html" target="_blank">http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10740/thr-77/Coollaboratory_Liquid_Ultra_100_Metal_Thermal_Interface_Material.html</a><br><br>

<a href="http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/coliul.html" target="_blank">http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/coliul.html</a><br><br>

<a href="http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27832" target="_blank">http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27832</a><br><br>

<a href="http://highflow.nl/toebehoren/koelpasta-pads-cleaners/coollaboratory-liquid-ultra-0-15ml.html?sl=EN" target="_blank">http://highflow.nl/toebehoren/koelpasta-pads-cleaners/coollaboratory-liquid-ultra-0-15ml.html?sl=EN</a><br><br><br>

Where to Buy Link<br>

<a href="http://www.coollaboratory.com/en/where-to-buy/" target="_blank">http://www.coollaboratory.com/en/where-to-buy/</a></div>

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Any questions and comments can be posted here!(If there are any changes to be made to the OP just leave a comment below and I'll change it ASAP(<br><br>

Thanks for reading and Have fun Delidding! <img alt="thumb.gif" class="bbcode_smiley" src="http://files.overclock.net/images/smilies/thumb.gif"><br><br><div class="bbcode_center" style="text-align:center;"><b><span style="text-decoration:underline;">MEMBERS LIST</span></b></div>

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To become a member just post a pic with your delidded CPU with a Hammer or vice or a piece of wood! and ill add you asap!