Take a bite of som tum at Immm Rice & Beyond, and for a brief moment, perhaps less than two seconds, you’ll marvel at the crunch of raw, grated papaya, the fresh rush of lime juice, and the layer of sweetness surrounding it all. Then the spice comes. And if you ordered the som tum at level 4 out of 5, even though the waitress looked at you like you signed a death wish, then it comes on like an ambush. The heat grasps at your tongue, filling your head with a head spinning sensation, as if you just downed a few shots of whiskey in a row. Honestly, it does feel intoxicating, and I can’t get enough of it. Which explains why I dig in to go through all the sensations again. $10. 4949 N. Broadway, 773-293-7378, immmchicago.com