One of the downsides of dealing with vintage muscle cars is that every time you take one out on the open road, you are stressing out those vintage drivetrain components and inviting failure. We have all been there; it just goes with the territory. When it comes to early Ford big-block starter failure, regardless of whether you are driving a 352ci 1958 Ford or a 1964 427 FE, John Vermeersch of Michigan's Total Performance in Mt. Clemens has a viable solution.

"Generally speaking, trying to locate a replacement for that failed 58-year-old 'big nose,' or pull-type Ford starter (known as an inertia-type drive in factory terminology) at 4 o'clock on a Saturday afternoon in Two Car-Ville, Idaho, is quite remote," says Vermeersch. "However, by switching to the readily available, mid-1964 to 1979 self-contained compact lever-type Ford starter, you can be up and running in no time at all."

The lever-type starter shares the same three-hole mounting position on the Ford big-block bellhousing and can be found at just about any auto parts store, such as NAPA, Kmart Auto Department, Sears Service Center, and so on.

That's the good news. The bad news is that the old inertia-style Bendix starter drive features a 1-inch-diameter, nine-tooth gear that interfaces with the 153-tooth big-block Ford flywheel or ring gear.

Conversely, the mid-1964 and later passenger car Bendix has a starter gear with a different pitch and width. It is still a 1-inch-diameter, nine-tooth starter gear, but it is made to interface with the later-model 184-tooth Ford flywheel or ring gear, says Vermeersch.

"We've come up with an earlier style, nine-tooth Bendix drive, part number C5A-11350-TP, that can be swapped out with the later-model starter drive and will interface with the older, 153-tooth flywheel while providing the proper depth and gear pitch that's required." Note that this starter swap is also necessary when installing full-length tubular headers on mid-1964 and older FoMoCo big-blocks.

Vermeersch says, "This affords the vintage Ford owner two options. The first is to carry one of these drives in their glovebox, just in case. The second, and by far the more practical option, is to take the easier and less stressful approach and permanently replace that antiquated pull-type starter with the more efficient mid-1964 and later-model Ford starter equipped with one of our nine-tooth Bendix drives. "

Vermeersch says the cost for this starter drive is an affordable (ahem) $24.95. The photos here show just how easy it is to swap out these Bendix drives.

Special thanks to Herbert Leite for the use of his one-owner 1963 1/2 427 Ford Galaxie 500; Lee H. Perreira Services for the use of the rollback truck; and Calgary, Alberta, Canada's Amperage Technologies for technical assistance in preparing this article.

See all 10 photos

See all 10 photos 1 Total Performance Inc. dug deep into its parts books to find the correct depth and pitch nine-tooth Bendix starter drive that will interface with the 1958-1964 153-tooth big-block Ford FE flywheel or flexplate (PN C5A-11350-TP, $24.95). It is a direct bolt-in and fits 352, 360, 390, 427, 427 SOHC, and 428ci Ford FE.

See all 10 photos 2 This comparison photo clearly shows the external differences between Ford's 1958-1964 1/2 inertia-type drive starter (top) and the late 1964-1979 self-contained, lever-type starter. Furthermore, the weight difference alone—19.25 pounds versus 11.75 pounds—makes starter installation a heck of a lot easier. Your arms will thank you for it!

See all 10 photos 3 Disassembly begins by loosening the two 1/2x20x6.626-inch through bolts (or body bolts) that secure the starter snout and endcap to the starter housing. However, do not remove the starter snout quite yet.

See all 10 photos 4 An expandable band secures the magnet cover in place via a single screw. With the cover removed, the installer can take out the removable pole shoe, which enables the removal of the starter drive.

See all 10 photos 5 Removing the snap ring from the main shaft comes next. Extreme caution is advised, as these rings are under tension and tend to launch themselves. Don protective eyewear.

See all 10 photos 6 From there, all that is required is spreading the lever arms enough to release them from the registration tangs located on the top and bottom of the OE Bendix drive. It should screw right out.

See all 10 photos 7 Once the new drive gear is installed (the application of a coat of white lithium grease to the shaft is highly recommended) reassembly is as simple as reinstalling the snap ring and cup washer.

See all 10 photos 8 Heading into the home stretch. Time for the reinstallation of the magnet cover and steel band, and bolting the snout and endcap back together.

See all 10 photos 9 With everything back in place, retighten the 1/2x20x6.626-inch through bolts, and your starter is ready for installation.