IF this qualifies as diet food, count me in.

That’s the thought that crossed my mind the other day as I sat hungrily at a counter in Eataly with Peter Kaminsky, a veteran food writer and the author of a new book, “Culinary Intelligence: The Art of Eating Healthy (and Really Well).” Mr. Kaminsky’s manifesto makes the not-altogether-depressing argument that some of us might be able to tame our gluttonous appetites (and maybe even slim down) by focusing on eating foods that deliver maximum flavor.

A few of those foods had been placed in front of us on the counter, and their presence was both tempting and reassuring: a tennis-ball-size globe of fresh mozzarella, dressed in olive oil and sea salt and crimson sun-dried tomatoes, and four fat-stitched sashes of prosciutto. Ham and cheese: yes!

Rich deposits of protein and umami would satiate us during our midday tour of the Flatiron district food emporium, Mr. Kaminsky promised me, and would help prevent us from succumbing to various white-flour pitfalls, like pizza and pasta, that fragrantly lurked in other parts of the marketplace.

Two modest supplies of bread arrived, but the 65-year-old author initially chose not to liberate his from its paper wrapping. The 45-year-old writer strove to do the same, even though I suspected it was very good bread and would taste even better dipped into that olive oil and topped with a knuckle of mozzarella.