“That’s not how Gagnaire would have done it,” a pastry cook named Michael muttered under his breath in response to a chef’s instructions. It was 2006, and I was standing nearby in the kitchen at a restaurant in Paris’s 7th arrondissement, my head down, my fingers gently pressing tart dough into tart rings. I didn’t look up but I could feel the chef’s fury. “What did you say?” he bellowed in French, in Michael’s general direction. Michael said nothing. I held my breath, hoping the chef’s next outburst wouldn’t involve me if I remained perfectly silent.

Between 2005 and 2007, I interned in pastry kitchens and at bakeries in Paris and around Lyon. At the time, Pierre Gagnaire was the chef most of the cooks and stagiaires (interns) I met wanted to work with. His three Michelin-starred eponymous restaurant in Paris was one of few that made adept use of molecular gastronomy even as many French kitchens were still plating the same classic coq au vin and sole meunière.

One of Gagnaire’s simplest principles is his belief that there are five distinct growing seasons, not the usual four everyone else considers. The fifth is happening right now in North America: A brief season he calls “Almost Spring” that is just after winter but before May. Peas, asparagus, and rhubarb aren’t quite at their peak yet during this time, but diners’ palates are tired of hearty stews and soups. It’s more of a theory on how to use roots and citrus in ways that feel lighter.

This recipe for chocolate soup — a dessert that’s an approachable form of avant garde — comes from Gagnaire’s newest cookbook, The Five Seasons Kitchen. It could be garnished with raspberries in the summer or candied chestnuts in the winter, but for Almost Spring, it’s just right with a simple nut crumble topping.

Chocolate soup with nut crumble Serves 6



Preparation time: 20 minutes



Cooking time: 20 minutes



For the chocolate water

250 ml still mineral water

50 g granulated sugar

25 g cocoa powder

14 g gelatine leaves, soaked in cold water

For the chocolate soup

200 ml double cream

450 ml whole milk

400 g dark chocolate, broken up

For the nut crumble

100 g unsalted butter, softened (left out at room temperature)

100 g granulated sugar

100 g ground hazelnuts

100 g T55 flour

100 g chopped walnuts





Method



1. FOR THE CHOCOLATE WATER

Boil the water with the sugar. Remove from the heat and add the cocoa. Wring out the gelatine and add. Pour into a baking dish to approximately 1.5 cm thick. Leave to harden in the refrigerator, then cut into cubes.

2. FOR THE CHOCOLATE SOUP

Boil the cream with half of the milk, then gradually pour over the chocolate, whisking together. Once the mixture is smooth and consistent, add the remaining milk. Leave to cool completely.

3. FOR THE NUT CRUMBLE

Preheat the oven to 160°C, 325°F, gas 3. Rub the softened butter into the sugar, ground hazelnut, flour and chopped walnuts to a coarse crumble. Spread this crumble out over a silicone sheet and bake for approximately 15 minutes. Leave to cool.



Finishing:

Divide the cubes of chocolate water between six dishes, then pour the cold soup on top and finish with small chunks of nut crumble.

Taken from The Five Seasons Kitchen by Pierre Gagnaire published in the English language by Grub Street Publishing © 2016. All rights reserved.

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