The Hill has long been a symphony of unusual sights, sounds, and smells: streets lined with shotgun-style houses; fire hydrants painted red, white, and green; charming, Italian-owned shops and trattorias; the aroma of fresh garlic cooking in olive oil; a BBQ joint…

On the surface, if one asked, “Which does not belong?” the last would be the unanimous choice. Yet it does.

J. Smugs GastroPit is located in the footprint of several former Italian restaurants: Leonardo's Burger Kitchen, Leonardo's Kitchen & Wine Bar, and Rizzo’s Station Pizzeria. John and Joe Smugala (the latter of Smugala’s Pizza Pub fame) and their wives, Linda and Kerri, own the restaurant.

SLM learned of the endeavor in May. An initial pre-Memorial Day opening ended up being too ambitious, but the partners were right on time for the next holiday, opening the doors last Friday, June 30.

The menu is a mix of BBQ basics (baby back ribs, brisket, pulled, pork and chicken), standard sides (homemade slaw, pit beans, fries, pickled vegetables, mac and cheese), and Italian salads (a chopped salad; a caprese; and The Hill, a winning combination of baby spinach, romaine, artichokes, kalamatas, pepperoncinis, roma tomatoes, and shredded Parmesan).

Squeeze bottles contain four homemade sauces, as well as honey mustard and hot sauce. The Dr. Pepper, billed as the hottest, is spice-heavy with chopped garlic and onion, but it carries only average heat. (And for the record, the moist, crusty, baby backs require no sauce at all.)

The most unexpected menu items are in the Starters category (pretzel stick with cheese, bacon-wrapped street corn, smoked wings, pulled pork poutine) with a few leaning the way of Pisa (smoked meatballs, garbanzo beans with Parmesan).

The most popular item during the first days has been the brisket burger, a half pound of 100 percent freshly ground brisket served with standard garnish and a choice of cheese on a Companion pretzel bun.

But the most unexpected surprise (and perhaps a nod to the gastropub) is the depth of the beer list: 12 crafts on tap and another 38 crafts and mainliners in bottles.

Three desserts are on the menu: a brownie, a Hill-made cannoli (natch), and Kerri’s Kupcake, Maple Bacon Bourbon flavor on the day we visited.

Pitmaster Kevin Weidlick’s menu was a joint effort inspired by Alex Cupp, owner of The Stellar Hog and a longtime friend of Joe Smugala. “I coached his select soccer team when he was younger,” Smulaga says of Cupp, “and he’s absolutely killing it at The Stellar Hog. I taught him a few things back then and feel honored to have him helping me now.”

J. Smugs' inaugural hours (subject to change) are Thu - Sat: 11 a.m. - 10 p.m. and Sun: 11 a.m. - 6 p.m.