The Secret Fork

For the Argus Leader

Well, here we are at the bitter end of 2017. That means it is time to look back, determine who were the winners and losers this past year, and look ahead to coming attractions in 2018.

Big Winner: Local microbreweries. Remedy Brewing opened on the East Bank, joining Monk’s, Wood Grain, Prairie Berry and Fernson. Then Hydra opened a downtown tap room. That’s six local breweries offering their outstanding beers within walking distance of each other. I think that’s a big deal. Can we squeeze in one more?

Winner: Food trucks. Although it is hard to think of food trucks when the temperatures dip into the subzeros, they had quite the year, too. I think it is fair to say that the trend has caught on. So much so that one truck, Swamp Daddy’s, is opening a sit-down location, just like Big Rig BBQ did a year ago. I’m excited to see what other Cajun and Creole creations Swamp Daddy’s will offer.

The Secret Fork: Kabob restaurant worth visiting more than once

Winner: Khorosan Kabob House. These guys deserve mention. After falling victim to the realities of the Sioux Falls commercial real estate market, this family-owned and -operated restaurant reopened on West 12th. Just in time, too, because I was starting to suffer symptoms of eggplant bouranee withdrawal.

Winner: The Local Guys. I’m specifically talking about the guys who formed Vanguard Hospitality and took over the flagship Minervas location, plus Grille 26 and Foley’s, which became Morrie’s Steakhouse. Grille 26 even pulled off a win in the bracket challenge. And, speaking of local guys, Bread & Circus gets a shout out for bringing some PDX hipsterism to sandwiches here in Sioux Falls. Go visit them in the former Taste of the Big Apple location. The naughty fries may have been the best dish I tried in 2017.

Loser: Hy-Vee Market Grille. This one must have looked a lot better on paper over in West Des Moines. I might not have an MBA from Wharton, but it turns out you don’t need one to conclude that opening the identical full-service restaurant and bar concept at something like seven locations might be overkill. You’ll notice in several of the Hy-Vee locations, Market Grille has quietly transitioned to a seating area. I even saw a salad bar at the 49th and Louise location. I’ll be interested to see if Hy-Vee can manage to repeat this mistake with their Wahlburgers concept.

Bracco World Cafe, Starz restaurants to close Dec. 31

Loser: Starz. I see Starz is closing, or is that clozing? I always sort of liked the nostalgic sports and old-school beer theme, but I never thought the place really clicked. I was never a fan of the menu, but my main objective when visiting was usually an Old Style on tap. The location is a bit clunky in terms of access to 57th Street. I guess we will see if a different concept might make the difference.

Loser: Moe’s Southwest Grill. Yes, Moe’s bit the big burrito. With multiple Qdoba and Panchero’s locations, the ever-present threat that Chipotle may make an entry and plenty of other options, like Giliberto’s, I guess something had to give. Fear not, however; Everest Indian Cuisine took over the space faster than you could say “guacamole.”

Looking ahead, the Secret Fork Staff is keeping a watchful eye on a couple situations that we think will have a big impact in 2018.

The Blarney Stone is a North Dakota-based Irish pub and restaurant concept. North Dakota sends us obnoxious NDSU football fans, and we return the favor by buying beer and burgers from them (JL Beers and Sickie’s Garage). Go figure.

Located in the former Touch of Europe location, The Blarney Stone could be a bit of a game-changer downtown. First, it’s a little bigger, sizewise, than other downtown watering holes. Second, the décor is nice, and big doors can be opened to create some unique seating options to take advantage of nicer weather. Can the central location, upscale décor and larger space make for the new downtown gathering place? We’ll see.

Dakota Seafood Co. recently opened in the former Cleaver’s Market location. These guys have been open in Rapid City for some time supplying chefs and restaurants with fresh seafood on a wholesale level, but also offering seafood to walk-in retail customers. If you’re buying fish at Dakota Seafood, chances are it was swimming 24 hours ago, as opposed to pulled out of the freezer and thawed. You’re going to pay for that sort of quality, but it’s worth it. I’m predicting more seafood dishes on local menus.

Also, the DTSF Burger Battle is coming up. There are new competitors this year, and as we understand it, some twists on the rules. Can chef Greg Springer at The Market capture a third consecutive win? We aim to find out - right after we sweat out some au jus from the Christmas prime rib.