A detailed guide to re-coiling the Protank

















Holding the Protank upside down, unscrew the tank off the base and put the tank to one side still upside down. There is no need to empty out the tank.



The base, after a quick wash and dry should look like this.









Remove the silicon seal just above the coil area.









Should look like this.









Loosen the coil head assembly. Now is a good time to remove the grooved post that is above the coil. It is a push fit. A little side to side movement will loosen it so it can be pulled out. It is more difficult to loosen if you leave it till after you have removed the coil head assembly.









Unscrew the coil head assembly and remove it from the base.









Remove the slotted centre post from the white rubber grommet. You can clearly see one of the coil wires which will connect to the centre post connection. The other wire is on the other side of the rubber grommet and in contact with the main part of the head assembly providing the other connection to the coil.









When the white rubber grommet has been removed you can see the two wires from the ends on the coil.









Remove the coil and wick from top of the head assembly.









A new wick/coil, this one from Vaporbreak, you can of course make your own coil/wicks.









Having used these a lot, I know that I can get a 1.5 ohm coil by unwinding the coil till 4 turns of the coil remain.









Then push the two wires through the centre of the tubing.









Then replace the white rubber grommet pushing one wire through the centre.









Push the white rubber grommet back into the tube. One wire will come through the middle of the grommet and one will stay on the outside of the grommet connecting with the chassis. Make sure the coil is in a good position. If it is too high in the tube, pull gently on each wire until the coil has moved into a good position, do not pull too hard.









Push the centre post connector back into the middle of the white grommet. Notice the position of the two wires. Then nip off the excess wire so that as little as possible is showing. I use a set of nail clippers. They can get really close to where the wire needs to be trimmed.









The coil will now look something like this, after trimming off the wicks to the same length as the old coil had.









Screw the coil assembly back onto the base reasonably tightly so that it makes a good seal on the base.













Push the grooved tube back into the coil unit, replace the silicone cap and check for shorts either with a multimeter or your device if it has that facility. Screw the coil base assembly back onto the tank and let the liquid soak into the wick and you are good to go





Much easier than the Nova really



