At $17, the Finca Torremilanos was our best value, though many wines could have filled that role, including our No. 3 bottle, the firm yet fresh 2016 Viña Solorca Barrica at $15, and our No. 7 bottle, the spicy 2016 Torremorón at just $13.

At No. 4 was an outlier, the 2017 Joven de Viñas Viejas from Goyo García, a wine made naturally, with minimal intervention, from old vines. If I were to choose one of these bottles to drink tonight, I would pick this juicy, pure, spicy and refreshing wine.

In the fifth spot was the 2016 Mibal Joven from Hornillos Ballesteros, concentrated and rich, yet balanced and earthy, while No. 6 was the firm, resonant 2015 from Dominio del Soto.

Also worth noting were the clear, pleasantly rustic 2015 Finca Villacreces, the heady and tannic 2016 Antidoto and the energetic yet oaky 2016 Roble from Valdrinal.

Perhaps one reason we were impressed by our top 10 was that they were from the cheaper end of the spectrum, where long aging in barrels of new oak is often considered too costly. The three most expensive bottles in the tasting, all over $50, were rejected as either too oaky, too sweet tasting or simply too too.

Nonetheless, we all took it as a good sign that we could find so many wines to like. It was an indication that the wines of Ribera del Duero are heading in a more exciting direction.

Tasting Notes: Impressive, Balanced Reds

★★★1/2 Emilio Moro Ribera del Duero 2016 $25

Juicy, polished and medium-bodied, with fresh, expressive flavors of earthy minerals and sunny fruit. (Skurnik Wines, New York)