SANTA CRUZ >> Mole is a nostalgic dish for many Mexicans and Mexican-Americans, evoking memories of their mothers, abuelas and tias all working together to create the labor-intensive dish. It’s safe to say, then, that memories will be bubbling over at this Saturday’s third annual Mole and Mariachi Festival at Santa Cruz Mission State Historic Park.

In a sort of testament to the familial histories often associated with the signature dish, this year’s event will feature, for the first time, two home cooks participating in the popular mole cook-off contest. Also competing will be Cesario Ruiz, owner of My Mom’s Mole in Watsonville; El Chipotle restaurant in Soquel; India Joze in downtown Santa Cruz; and two-time mole festival winner, El Jardin, also in Santa Cruz.

“It will be really interesting to see how the home cooks stack up against the restaurants,” said Bonny Hawley, executive director of Friends of Santa Cruz State Parks, which sponsors the free-admission event.

Mole recipes are as varied as their makers, with the best-known version mole poblano, which originated in the Mexican city of Puebla. Mole poblano is what most people think of as mole — an elaborate preparation of chocolate, chiles, nuts, spices and much more. Some recipes may have as many as 30 or more ingredients, though some moles are much more simple, with just four or five.

Ruiz, owner of the fittingly named My Mom’s Mole, said his mom’s version was much more like the former. “My mom would spend three days on her mole. It was a special occasion (when she’d make it.)”

Ruiz hopes to change the idea that making mole has to be a long and drawn out process. He markets a pre-packaged mole — a starter kit of sorts. His mole powder includes more than 20 ingredients and is based on his own family recipes.

Ruiz started his company about two years ago, operating out of the El Pajaro CDC Commercial Kitchen Incubator in Watsonville. He’s planning to start teaching low-cost mole classes beginning in October. The classes are a natural extension of his work responsibilities.

“My job involves a lot of explaining to people what mole actually is,” he said. “It requires a certain amount of educating.”

Visitors to the third annual Mole and Mariachi festival can expect some stories with their moles, as each entrant offers a unique version.

A popular belief is that mole poblano was invented at the 17th century Convent of Santa Rosa in Pueblo, using native chiles and tomatoes combined with spices, nuts and fruits that arrived with the Spanish conquistadors. This blending of Mexican and Spanish makes mole the perfect dish to be feted at the Santa Cruz Mission.

In keeping with the family theme, the event will have something for all ages, said Hawley. That includes food, face painting, crafts, dancing and, of course, music. Among the scheduled performers are Estrellas de Esperanza, a children’s Mexican folk dance group from Watsonville, Mariachi Juvenil Alma de Mexico and Centeotle Group de Danza y Baile, a Santa Cruz-based dance troupe.

Chavelas, a beer cocktail made with tomato juice and hot sauce, will also be available for sale, as will other Mexican food. Mole tasting kits will be sold for $10.

Hawley said this year’s event will also feature a piñata every hour, due to the popularity of the activity in previous years.

Attendees and a panel of local “celebrity” judges will rate the mole. Prizes will be given for the People’s Choice and Judges’ Choice.

If You Go

Santa Cruz Mole and Mariachi Festival

What: Competing chefs will prepare mole, a traditional Mexican sauce, for festival-goers to sample. There will be live music, dance, activities for kids, craft vendors and more. The third annual festival is a benefit for nonprofit Friends of Santa Cruz State Parks in support of Santa Cruz Mission State Historic Park. Proceeds help fund educational programs, visitor services, capital improvements and increased hours the park is open.

When: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday, Sept. 19

Where: Santa Cruz Mission State Historic Park, 144 School St., Santa Cruz

Cost: Admission is free; mole tasting kits are $10. Refreshments will be available for purchase from the Penny Ice Creamery, Discretion Brewery, El Chipotle, Taqueria Lidia and others.

Details: www.thatsmypark.org

Recipe

Mole Verde

Ingredients

Group 1

1 pound of tomatillos

1 jalapeño pepper

1 serrano pepper

1 pasilla pepper

1 zucchini

Group 2

3 romaine lettuce leaves

½ bunch of parsley

½ bunch of cilantro

Group 3

1 cup raw pumpkin seeds

½ cup raw sesame seeds

½ cup unsalted peanuts

½ cup, raw almonds

Group 4

2 small pieces of star anise

3 cloves

4 black peppercorns

¼ teaspoon, coriander

¼ teaspoon, cumin

1 medium-sized yellow onion

3 garlic cloves

Group 5

Lard, as needed

Salt, as needed

Group 6

3½ pounds pork (shoulder or butt)

Directions

1. Start by cooking the pork in a large pot. Make sure to use plenty of water as the stock will be added to Group 1 and used to finish the mole sauce. Add salt to taste.

2. Remove husks from the tomatillos and then wash them.

3. Place all of Group 1 in a pot with water and bring to a boil. Turn off and discard water.

4. Blend Group 1 with Group 2 until pureed.

5. In a skillet with lard, sauté each component of Group 3 by itself. They can be placed in the same container after being roasted. In the same skillet, sauté each component of Group 4 by itself in this order: star anise, cloves, peppercorns, coriander, cumin, onion, and garlic. Set aside.

6. In a separate dish/pot, blend Groups 3 and 4 together using stock from the pork. Add Group 1, bring to a boil and add salt as needed. Simmer for 10 minutes.

— Recipe courtesy of Cesario Ruiz of My Mom’s Mole, Watsonville