Over the last couple of years, Roger Dubuis has been obsessing over carbon. Not carbon fibre, but the raw, earthy kind. Last year’s Excalibur Carbon Spider, for example, was the first ever watch whose movement’s base plate and tourbillon cage was made from the dark, organic material. Well, the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Ultimate Carbon is the latest logical step.

The watch is powered by the manual-wind RD508SQ movement which since the refocus on Excalibur has been the maison’s flagship. Its bridges have been openworked to form a star and, at the same time, blend movement and dial together into one architectural masterpiece. The movement though is the least impressive part of this new release – and that’s saying something.

The case of the new piece is 100% carbon. Every curve of the main case, every link in the bracelet is made from high-tech layered carbon composite. So far so extreme. However, there’s one other form of carbon that’s far more prevalent in watchmaking: diamond.

In case you missed secondary school geography, diamond is just carbon that’s been pressed under immense heat under the earth. Fitting then that every surface of the Ultimate Carbon is set with 195 of the white gemstones, from the bracelet to the bezel to Roger Dubuis’ signature Celtic star. Even the tourbillon cage has been set with sparkling baguette-cut stones – another world first for the watchmaker.

Despite the extreme nature of the materials used, somehow Roger Dubuis has still managed to attain Poincon de Geneve standard – essentially, every surface has been finished flawlessly. Against the texture of the layered carbon they could have simply left most surfaces raw, but this is Roger Dubuis. Their obsession with the material is matched by their obsession with detail.

It’s impossible at this point to make a watch 100% carbon, but if anyone is going to get there eventually it’ll be Roger Dubuis. Is that a necessary innovation? Nope, but it makes for one hell of an impressive watch.

Price & Specs:

Model name: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Ultimate Carbon (ref. RDDBEX0675) Dial/Case: 45mm diameter, carbon case, sapphire back Movement: Manual-winding mechanical, skeleton Power reserve: 50h Water resistance: 50m Price & availability: CHF 550,000, limited to 8 pieces



Read more on Roger Dubuis’ website.