

If the casing layer is non-nutritous and only provides the microclimate needed for pinning, do you really need to let the casing layer colonize before fruiting?



I know some don't even use a casing layer, others wait for it to be fully colonized and others don't. The only reason I could see letting it colonize 100% is to reduce contams later on. But if you're using 50/50+, aren't contams less likely with the pH balanced?



I waited until a few small areas showed some myc popping through and then I started fruiting.



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Quote:

CycleThoughts said:

If the casing layer is non-nutritous and only provides the microclimate needed for pinning, do you really need to let the casing layer colonize before fruiting?







YES, absolutely. Why? I do not know, but a lot of people have said it here, and it is very important to agree with everything everyone says or you will banished as an outcast.





...





Coming to think of it, I already am an outcast! So I will give you an honest answer: the only difference it makes is how even the pinset is, and, really, a nice even pinset is better for the simple fact that you can harvest all at once with similar sized (well, not "sized", but similar points in the fruits' lifecycles) fruits. So, it depends on how important an even pinset is to you. I don't think it's worth the time, personally.



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you are in no way supposed to let the casing colonize. that would be a detrimental condition known as overlay, look it up if you're not familiar.



I don't know what gave you the idea to let it colonize completely, but that is incorrect. normally, once you even see mycelium through the casing, you should induce fruiting. preferably a day or two before, if you're good enough to time it accordingly.



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Personally, I have made much better experience with partially colonized casing layers, than with almost fully colonized ones, or completely uncolonized ones.

I never really noticed a difference in performance with Cubes. At least none that would justify the effort of making and applying a casing layer.



With Pans, however, the flushes I got from completely uncolonized layers were inferior to the ones I got from partially colonized ones.



Some people get great flushes from uncolonized ones, others -as I- don't. You probably just have to try how it works for you.



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or you could be using ms and it may be a crap shoot



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Quote:

Fahkface said:

Some people get great flushes from uncolonized ones, others -as I- don't. You probably just have to try how it works for you.







I wonder, personally, if it has to do with local climate conditions?



Where I am, it was difficult to keep the uncased tub from drying out and pulling away from the sides before it started to pin properly (thus side pinning), but as soon as we case it (straight verm at this point), its easier to keep the top of the sub moist without pooling.



Perhaps in the summer when it's more humid a casing layer won't be as useful. But maybe it's just our inexperience too



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I have read why growers like to have their casings colonized and it still makes no sense to me (for cubes).



If a casing layer is a micro climate, why would you defeat the purpose of it being there by letting the mycelium colonize it?



You can spot a properly applied casing layer when your mushroom fruits grow out from underneath it and carry sediment from your casing layer on top of the caps, like this...









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Quote:

Jitsu said:









Woow, this looks very nice, i hope sometime i will get this good...



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Quote:

potgrrl said:

Quote:

Fahkface said:

Some people get great flushes from uncolonized ones, others -as I- don't. You probably just have to try how it works for you.







I wonder, personally, if it has to do with local climate conditions?



Where I am, it was difficult to keep the uncased tub from drying out and pulling away from the sides before it started to pin properly (thus side pinning), but as soon as we case it (straight verm at this point), its easier to keep the top of the sub moist without pooling.



Perhaps in the summer when it's more humid a casing layer won't be as useful. But maybe it's just our inexperience too







My main growing room normally has a RH of 20% to 30%.

The results are pretty much the same as in the other room I cultivate which normally has a RH of about 50%.



It doesn't seem to have an effect on the performance.

A lower RH will cause the water in the FC / Tub to evaporate faster, making it necessary to replace it more often. But that's pretty much it.



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Fully colonized casing layers have always been a disaster for me, I either move them to fruiting conditions right away or give them just a day or two to colonize before moving them to fruiting conditions and to be honest have not seen enough of a difference to make the additional step worthwhile.

M



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Quote:

CycleThoughts said:

I waited until a few small areas showed some myc popping through and then I started fruiting.







That was the correct procedure. The casing layer not only supplies a humid micro-climate right at the surface, but if partially colonized, can absorb a lot of water from misting. The uncolonized casing soaks up the water, and then the mycelium absorbs it from the casing. A fully colonized casing layer can not perform that function, nor can a totally uncolonized one.



Quote:

potgrrl said:

Where I am, it was difficult to keep the uncased tub from drying out and pulling away from the sides before it started to pin properly (thus side pinning)







Pulling away from the sides is not caused by drying. As the mycelium colonizes the substrate, it actually consumes it as food, thus we have shrinkage away from the sides.

RR



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