Seeking out fabrics is another outlet for intuition. I try to channel and reference narratives found throughout garment history - looking for roots behind the choices being made, but also reinvent or put them in a different context. I play with the psychology of textile - the different feelings conjured up by denim, black linen, silk satin, corduroy... I've always enjoyed the subtly subversive feeling of showing the same 'design' in a variety of evolving fabrics to point at the heavy emphasis on textile. Textile is connected to agricultural, social, political... it is tied to everything.

My process is very much a mixture of a loose notion coming into focus and then making patterns/sewing samples and revising...make and remake and make again... The changes are subtle and rely upon making the pattern and samples to arrive at conclusions of scale, placement & fit.

They're not really separate things for me; perhaps when I'm thinking about ideas for the imagery Allen Danze & I make, or other outlets that aren't my craft - coming up with ideas (designing) is more enjoyable because the craft/physical process of making is foreign to me still. With clothing, I formed my ideas and approach as I was studying and learning how to make them, so I can't really imagine separating the designing from the making.

Making in the USA.

I am not tied to making product in the States forever. I want to make the best quality product I can, with a unique 'hand style' or human aspect visible in the construction, and in a place where the craftspeople involved are paid fairly and live a good life and work in a healthy atmosphere. Wherever I can have that, I am happy to produce something.

For now, I am based in San Francisco - so I greatly value getting to ride my bike 10 minutes from my studio to the shirting factories downtown, or driving 6 hours to LA to visit factories there. I know exactly how I want everything made - it's inherent to my approach and part of the DNA of the design, not just the appearance but how it comes together.

On the trajectory of regional manufacturing.

I like creating work based off real connections; if I meet someone who makes hats in Tokyo, bags in Osaka, or knitwear in Italy - and we get along well and connect in one way or another, I'm going to feel an impulse to make something with them. The human aspect is what draws me in and inspires me with regards to product.

When you meet or get to learn about the unique and thoughtful people who run a small operation and they are clearly motivated by the craft and are in it because of the product - it's a certain spark, or language that makes me want to do something together.

I was introduced to the person who makes my sweaters, and he was such a passionate character - it drew me in to make something with him. In my mind there is ultimately too much product out there and more always being made, so the biggest motivator is forming connections and looking to instill meaning in the work.