But I won’t have it every dinner! No, it’d be great to eat some orange beef this week, to drink a Nor’easter, to enjoy some roasted porgy with aligot.

And absolutely I’d like to make a weeknight pie or galette, something to remind me that even as we commute in darkness, even as we light fires against the chill of morning, that sunlight and heat are nearby, that they will return again. And so: this fruit galette with apple-cider caramel; this apple pie; this foolproof tarte Tatin.

You can find thousands and thousands more recipes to cook this week on NYT Cooking. Yes, you need a subscription to access them. (Maybe someone in your life can buy you a gift subscription?) Subscriptions are the fuel that powers our stove.

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Now, how much experience do you have with putting up clams? I’m starting with an old Irish recipe I found: “Boil them from the shells, and take them out with a skimmer and put them into a basin; take of their own liquor half enough to cover over them, and the same quantity of strong vinegar. Whole pepper, allspice and mace, each a teaspoonful; make this hot and then pour it over the clams. After 24 hours, they are fit for eating, and will keep good for a long time.” Really? Any and all advice welcome.