× Expand Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

First, it’s not “Sheesh!” It’s the sheesh of shish kebab, Turkish for “skewer.” You can be forgiven for the mistake: “Sheesh! What kind of place is this?” is a reasonable question. Located on South Grand, the restaurant looks like an odd lounge. Tables are enormous engraved copper spheres. Chairs? Imagine Captain Kirk’s seat upholstered by Navajo weavers. The atmosphere is relaxed, more like that of a hotel lobby than that of a restaurant, and comfortable, though nearly impossible for seating more than a quartet at the same table.

The metal motif continues in copper dishes covered with copper cloche domes. Underneath are a variety of Turkish specialties, combinations of meat and vegetables, redolent with spices.

Turkish cuisine mixes Arabic, Greek, and central Asian. You’ll find lamb, yogurt, mint, allspice, oregano, and tangy sumac. Pita-wrapped chicken and beef döners are fine for the less adventurous. But this is an opportunity to straddle the Bosporus.

See also: Now Open on South Grand: Sheesh Restaurant

A roasted-eggplant purée makes alinazik kebab a traditional and “homey” Turkish favorite; it’s delicious here, mixed with garlicky yogurt and cushioning tender cubes of grilled lamb. Adana lamb kebabs flickering with a touch of chilies top a pilaf along with roasted tomatoes and onions. Chicken, marinated in yogurt and grilled, is paired with bulgur and rice. It’s also featured in an extravagant biryani.

If you’re going the biryani route, consider ordering it with a roasted lamb shank, barely clinging to the bone and reclining atop a mound of that fragrant spiced rice.

Side dishes are a must. Crispy triangles of pastry samosa, stuffed with finely chopped vegetables, are delightful. Kibbeh is ground beef, bulgur, and walnuts, fried into balls. Pass on the stuffed grape leaves; the interior is mushy and flavorless. Hummus, rich with tahini and a swirl of olive oil, is smooth and satisfying. Matched with the falafel balls, it makes for a fine light meal. Do try the labneh, a slightly sour yogurt, and share a bowl of ezogelin, sort of the chicken soup of Turkey. Breads are another attraction here; pita and flatbread appear with nearly every dish.

Alcohol? Nope. But high-octane Turkish coffee and black, faintly sweet tea are both good after-dinner choices.

Service here is quick-paced (though the embroidered Ottoman vests and fezzes are startling), and the atmosphere encourages leisurely dining.

South Grand has become a culinary U.N. Sheesh is a notable addition. But those vests and fezzes? Sheesh.

The Bottom Line: Authentic Turkish cuisine is served in a laid-back, loungelike setting.