To hear some mourners of New York’s late, great nostalgia-filled haunts tell it, the soul of the city is crumbling. With every upward tick in property values, the eternal lament goes, another rapacious landlord muscles out a neighborhood dive bar for a new bank, drugstore or gym.

So what to make of John and Richard Zawisny, the owners of a South Park Slope classic — a Polish sausage and craft-beer emporium called Eagle Provisions that advertises, in blocky hand-painted letters, “Epicurean Delights From Around the World” — that they are selling off and closing for good, and glad about it?

“I envisioned that after 35 years, we’d be like smooth sailing, and it’s not smooth sailing,” said John Zawisny, 62, who bought the business with his father and brother in 1979, when the neighborhood was mostly Italian and Polish.

In those days, the Zawisnys were paying local organized crime figures $500 a week to stave off harassment and threats. Now it is a different New York, where young professionals renovate neighborhood rowhouses and developers come to your door offering millions — in this case, seven and a half of them — to buy your building and turn it into apartments.