FRSBRZGT86FAN Senior Member



Join Date: Jun 2013 Drives: 2015 FR-S AT, 2019 CX-5 Location: Philadelphia, PA Posts: 4,185 Thanks: 3,046 Thanked 2,047 Times in 1,367 Posts Mentioned: 31 Post(s) Tagged: 2 Thread(s)

Quote: darthfrs Originally Posted by Here is a full guide how to swap your Automatic to a Manual without a single CEL.



If you would like to see me figuring it all out, check out my Instagram and see the MT Swap highlighted story. @ darthfrs



Things you will need : (not including tools)



-MT Front Chassis Harness

-MT Dash Harness

-MT Starter (& two new bolts because the AT ones are too long. M8x1.25 3" or grab two from factory)

-Clutch Master & brake line fittings

-Slave

-MT ABS Module

-Clutch/Brake Pedal Assembly (You can use the same throttle pedal)

-MT ECU

-MT Driveshaft

-Cam Plate (You can use the same bolts that hold the AT )

-MT Shift knob (Different thread than AT)

-Manual Transmission Clutch Fork

Clutch

Pivot

Shifter Assembly/Linkage

Floor Shifter (& metal brackets)

Transmission Mount

Pressure Plate Bolts

Flywheel (Use Flywheel bolts from AT)

Transmission Fluid (I would recommend Motul 300) Tuning is all on you. If you're stock, that's simple, OFT would be straightforward, Anyone on Ecutek (like myself) transferring a license is quite the process...you may just want to purchase a new license and sell your old ECU with the license attached to it. Lots of options here but that process will not be included here.



With everything listed above, you can manage everything on a budget of about $1500 USD. Personally I'm supercharged running the Edelbrock Kit on Flex Fuel. So I decided to get the best parts I could. I ended up with around $2000 USD spent on this project. I have so much priceless time into my car I could never trade it in. I've had it since 0 miles and it's in perfect condition, I know the motor is great. If you have simple boltons' such as lights/exhaust/wheels etc then I would suggest you trade it in. You may lose anywhere from 2-4K in equity but that's a good road for some. If you're too attached and have too much done to your car to trade it in and you can throw time and money into the car...then keep reading.



Remember to bag and tag everything. I think I had 30 plastic bags of bolts and such. Organization is key.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is a small gallery of images (screenshots from instagram story sorry) that show some visuals for some steps below



https://imgur.com/a/RzAF1



Again the full story with pictures and videos is on my Instagram if you're interested.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Engine

1) Pop the hood and take it off! Gets in the way.

2) Remove fuel pressure. To do so: remove the 20A Fuel Pump (F/PMP) fuse from the fuse box and start the engine until it stalls, it will idle before it does. Two or three times and you'll be set. Throw that fuse back in so you don't lose it.

3) Disconnect/Remove your battery.

4) Unplug all four fuel injectors and unbolt the rails to remove the injectors, store them very safely.

5) Remove your air intake (If you have oil cooler lines running towards the front of the car, make sure they have plenty of room, when the transmission is off, the engine is going to fall forwards about 3-4")



PS: Your coolant hose will get kinked a little when the engine is sitting forwards without the weight of a transmission but it's nothing to worry about, You'll have to do a full coolant flush as well so taking it off wont hurt.



6) Remove your intake manifold (makes everything way easier)

7) Shove some micro fiber towels into the manifold so nothing falls into your block...



Drivetrain

Get your car safely as high off the ground as possible

1) Remove your driveshaft.

2) Drain the fluid from your automatic transmission

3) Remove your automatic transmission cooler. 2 coolant lines and 2 lines going to the transmission that carries ATF (This is where you essentially drain the coolant from your block)

3) Unbolt your transmission mounts.

4) Get a transmission jack or regular 3ton under the trans in preparation.

5) Disconnect the transmission...good luck!

6) Once the transmission is off, you'll notice the TC (torque converter) is still connected. Remove the rubber "plug" behind it on the engine (If it's still there) to see behind the TC. Here you will see bolts holding your TC to your flywheel. Remove those and the TC will slide off. You'll need to spin the TC to have access to all the bolts (6)

7) Remove the AT flywheel (8) bolts. I reused mine, you can either do that or buy new from factory or visit a hardware store.



Now back to the engine.



1) Locate the vacuum pump (where the cam plate goes). Disconnect the line from the Brake Booster. Proceed to remove the three bolts from the pump. It will not fall off.



My oil didn't have any pressure so nothing came out when I removed it. But put some rags down in case.



2) There are two guide pins that held on this pump. We need to remove these to install the cam plate. Take some vice grips and have fun!



Use heat if you have to but if you grab them snug and wiggle back and fourth, they'll slide out.



3) Install your Cam Plate (install with RTV to seal properly)

4) Torque down the three bolts accordingly.



5) Remove your ABS Module (I wish I knew this had to be changed before swapping harnesses...)



Use a flare nut tool to remove your brake lines (10 & 12mm)



6) Wrap up your brake lines so no dust or grime gets into them while you work. Air is fine, you'll need to do a full bleed anyways.

7) There's a rubber grommet plugging the hole that the clutch master belongs. Pull this out and you'll notice the deadening/firewall material is already cut out, so pull on that fabric and complete the hole.

8) Remove your two front strut tower braces so you can work easier.

9) Also remove the bumper and headlights at this point.

10) Remove your Brake Booster. Make sure to remove the pin from the brake pedal inside the cabin. There's that and four bolts holding it on.

11) Remove your pedal assembly (brake pedal) - Put that pin in your new clutch/brake assembly while you're at it so you don't lose it.



Removing the Front Chassis Harness



1) Start unplugging it.

2) Refer to your new MT harness for a reference.



This harness essentially starts from inside the cabin on the driver side, into the bay, splits to underneath your brake lines, under the ABS and into the headlight area etc. The other split going underneath your brake booster that you removed, over the transmission tunnel, to your battery, splits to the passenger side firewall cutout. The other wires go to your fuse box and then again into your headlight area.



It's very easy to follow. Be very careful with all clips. Any bolts you remove, screw back in for ease of re-installation.



Now we have to remove the dash harness.



Remove the steering wheel and interior. There are many tutorials and videos online of this process. It'll take you 15min to fully remove all the plastic.



BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE CLOCK SPRING - If you have an extra hand, have them hold down the clock spring while you remove the steering wheel and as soon as the wheel is off, get some tape and secure that clock spring. Cannot stress that enough.



Once you have the entire dash out, get to disconnecting the Dash Harness. It's WAY easier than the front chassis.



Again be very careful unplugging everything and if something doesn't come out easy THERE'S A REASON. You 100% missed a wire :P



Once you have that harness out, go ahead and pull the Front Chassis harness through the firewall.



PS: The cable for your hood latch goes through the grommet that the loom of wires goes through. You'll need to disconnect the cable from the interior latch and fish it through the grommet in the firewall. Careful not to bend it. Leave it aside while you remove the harness. I just left it draped over my windshield.



Once the Front Chassis Harness it out, clean your engine bay, it's probably filthy



Now do all of that in reverse



-Lay down the Chassis harness and make sure it's oriented correctly - no twists or weird bends, it should lay in perfectly. Make sure all of your grounds are secure

-There are 5 total grounding points. Under fuse box on crash bar (1)

Under ABS module on crash bar (2)

Near Battery (1)

Transmission Tunnel (1)

PS: If your fuse box came without a...box. It's very easy to transfer your old Fuse Box box to the exposed fuse panel on your MT harness.



Once all of that is plugged in and you fished both sides through the firewall (Don't forget your hood latch cable) then continue inside to connect the dash harness.



Now install your clutch/brake assembly(4 bolts) These pedals also have a metal tab that hooks at the top of the dash. It bolts right up. You'll need two nuts (same sizes as the brake master) to secure your Clutch Master assembly. Again this is after you install your pedals. Install the clutch master and re-install your brake booster. Now you can plug in your pedals to the harness.



Now is a good time to install the MT ABS Module.



Also you can install the clutch line from the master to the slave.



Due to the AT cooler we have open feed and return coolant lines. I utilized the hoses from the cooler, cut one to make a L. There is a metal bracket that connects the two hoses. I plugged the L hose I made from the bottom of the block to that metal bracket bridge to the existing hose line that goes back into the block. There's other ways to do this I'm sure but that's how I did so. Very simple.





Transmission



Assemble your transmission. Again Tutorials on this can be found elsewhere, I will not be including the process.



After you secure your Manual Transmission:

-Plug in the remaining connections to the transmission from the front harness.

-Bolt up that transmission mount

-Install the MT Driveshaft

-Install the MT Starter and plug it in

-Fill your transmission with Transmission Oil.



Now you can reinstall your Intake Manifold (make sure your gaskets are good)



Also you can now route the Brake Booster line into your manifold. Remove the block off plug and secure the hose. You may need a new hose for this or modify the stock one.



Reinstall your injectors and rails (make sure the O-rings are lubed up)

Reinstall your air intake

If you removed that coolant hose in front of the engine, reattach that.



At this point. You have everything plugged in electrically.

You have everything bolted in mechanically.



You can go ahead and reinstall your dash.



Go ahead and pour what coolant you can into the block while it's not running.



Do a full brake bleed and bleed that clutch!





DOUBLE CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS



DOUBLE CHECK GROUNDS



Install your new ECU



It's time to plug in your battery.



Now there's a couple ways to reprogram your new ECU. Dealership or on your own very inexpensively.

You'll need to do this to change the VIN on the ECU and allow it to communicate with your security system (immobilizer etc)



Here is a link to the process on your own:



Once you finish that you can flash your new ECU with your specified tune. (again all on you)



CHECK OVER EVERY INCH OF THE CAR YOU TOUCHED



Turn it over



Enjoy!!



Please feel free to ask any questions. I will try to reply here as much as possible but I'm always available on Instagram for something quick.



It's 100% worth it. Have fun!



: (not including tools)-MT Front Chassis Harness-MT Dash Harness-MT Starter (& two new bolts because the AT ones are too long. M8x1.25 3" or grab two from factory)-Clutch Master & brake line fittings-Slave-MT ABS Module-Clutch/Brake Pedal Assembly (You can use the same throttle pedal)-MT ECU-MT Driveshaft-Cam Plate (You can use the same bolts that hold the AT )-MT Shift knob (Different thread than AT)-Manual TransmissionTuning is all on you. If you're stock, that's simple, OFT would be straightforward, Anyone on Ecutek (like myself) transferring a license is quite the process...you may just want to purchase a new license and sell your old ECU with the license attached to it. Lots of options here but that process will not be included here.With everything listed above, you can manage everything on a budget of about $1500 USD. Personally I'm supercharged running the Edelbrock Kit on Flex Fuel. So I decided to get the best parts I could. I ended up with around $2000 USD spent on this project. I have so much priceless time into my car I could never trade it in. I've had it since 0 miles and it's in perfect condition, I know the motor is great. If you have simple boltons' such as lights/exhaust/wheels etc then I would suggest you trade it in. You may lose anywhere from 2-4K in equity but that's a good road for some. If you're too attached and have too much done to your car to trade it in and you can throw time and money into the car...then keep reading.Remember to bag and tag everything. I think I had 30 plastic bags of bolts and such. Organization is key.--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Here is a small gallery of images (screenshots from instagram story sorry) that show some visuals for some steps belowAgain the full story with pictures and videos is on my Instagram if you're interested.--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------1) Pop the hood and take it off! Gets in the way.2) Remove fuel pressure. To do so: remove the 20A Fuel Pump (F/PMP) fuse from the fuse box and start the engine until it stalls, it will idle before it does. Two or three times and you'll be set. Throw that fuse back in so you don't lose it.3) Disconnect/Remove your battery.4) Unplug all four fuel injectors and unbolt the rails to remove the injectors, store them very safely.5) Remove your air intake (If you have oil cooler lines running towards the front of the car, make sure they have plenty of room, when the transmission is off, the engine is going to fall forwards about 3-4"): Your coolant hose will get kinked a little when the engine is sitting forwards without the weight of a transmission but it's nothing to worry about, You'll have to do a full coolant flush as well so taking it off wont hurt.6) Remove your intake manifold (makes everything way easier)7) Shove some micro fiber towels into the manifold so nothing falls into your block...1) Remove your driveshaft.2) Drain the fluid from your automatic transmission3) Remove your automatic transmission cooler. 2 coolant lines and 2 lines going to the transmission that carries ATF (This is where you essentially drain the coolant from your block)3) Unbolt your transmission mounts.4) Get a transmission jack or regular 3ton under the trans in preparation.5) Disconnect the transmission...good luck!6) Once the transmission is off, you'll notice the TC (torque converter) is still connected. Remove the rubber "plug" behind it on the engine (If it's still there) to see behind the TC. Here you will see bolts holding your TC to your flywheel. Remove those and the TC will slide off. You'll need to spin the TC to have access to all the bolts (6)7) Remove the AT flywheel (8) bolts. I reused mine, you can either do that or buy new from factory or visit a hardware store.1) Locate the vacuum pump (where the cam plate goes). Disconnect the line from the Brake Booster. Proceed to remove the three bolts from the pump. It will not fall off.2) There are two guide pins that held on this pump. We need to remove these to install the cam plate. Take some vice grips and have fun!3) Install your Cam Plate (install with RTV to seal properly)4) Torque down the three bolts accordingly.5) Remove your ABS Module (I wish I knew this had to be changed before swapping harnesses...)6) Wrap up your brake lines so no dust or grime gets into them while you work. Air is fine, you'll need to do a full bleed anyways.7) There's a rubber grommet plugging the hole that the clutch master belongs. Pull this out and you'll notice the deadening/firewall material is already cut out, so pull on that fabric and complete the hole.8) Remove your two front strut tower braces so you can work easier.9) Also remove the bumper and headlights at this point.10) Remove your Brake Booster. Make sure to remove the pin from the brake pedal inside the cabin. There's that and four bolts holding it on.11) Remove your pedal assembly (brake pedal) - Put that pin in your new clutch/brake assembly while you're at it so you don't lose it.1) Start unplugging it.2) Refer to your new MT harness for a reference.This harness essentially starts from inside the cabin on the driver side, into the bay, splits to underneath your brake lines, under the ABS and into the headlight area etc. The other split going underneath your brake booster that you removed, over the transmission tunnel, to your battery, splits to the passenger side firewall cutout. The other wires go to your fuse box and then again into your headlight area.Now we have to remove the dash harness.Remove the steering wheel and interior. There are many tutorials and videos online of this process. It'll take you 15min to fully remove all the plastic.- If you have an extra hand, have them hold down the clock spring while you remove the steering wheel and as soon as the wheel is off, get some tape and secure that clock spring. Cannot stress that enough.Once you have the entire dash out, get to disconnecting the Dash Harness. It's WAY easier than the front chassis.Again be very careful unplugging everything and if something doesn't come out easy THERE'S A REASON. You 100% missed a wire :POnce you have that harness out, go ahead and pull the Front Chassis harness through the firewall.The cable for your hood latch goes through the grommet that the loom of wires goes through. You'll need to disconnect the cable from the interior latch and fish it through the grommet in the firewall. Careful not to bend it. Leave it aside while you remove the harness. I just left it draped over my windshield.Once the Front Chassis Harness it out, clean your engine bay, it's probably filthy-Lay down the Chassis harness and make sure it's oriented correctly - no twists or weird bends, it should lay in perfectly. Make sure all of your grounds are secure-There are 5 total grounding points.Once all of that is plugged in and you fished both sides through the firewall (Don't forget your hood latch cable) then continue inside to connect the dash harness.Now install your clutch/brake assembly(4 bolts) These pedals also have a metal tab that hooks at the top of the dash. It bolts right up. You'll need two nuts (same sizes as the brake master) to secure your Clutch Master assembly. Again this is after you install your pedals. Install the clutch master and re-install your brake booster. Now you can plug in your pedals to the harness.Now is a good time to install the MT ABS Module.Also you can install the clutch line from the master to the slave.Due to the AT cooler we have open feed and return coolant lines. I utilized the hoses from the cooler, cut one to make a L. There is a metal bracket that connects the two hoses. I plugged the L hose I made from the bottom of the block to that metal bracket bridge to the existing hose line that goes back into the block. There's other ways to do this I'm sure but that's how I did so. Very simple.Assemble your transmission. Again Tutorials on this can be found elsewhere, I will not be including the process.-Plug in the remaining connections to the transmission from the front harness.-Bolt up that transmission mount-Install the MT Driveshaft-Install the MT Starter and plug it in-Fill your transmission with Transmission Oil.Now you can reinstall your Intake Manifold (make sure your gaskets are good)Also you can now route the Brake Booster line into your manifold. Remove the block off plug and secure the hose. You may need a new hose for this or modify the stock one.Reinstall your injectors and rails (make sure the O-rings are lubed up)Reinstall your air intakeIf you removed that coolant hose in front of the engine, reattach that.At this point. You have everything plugged in electrically.You have everything bolted in mechanically.You can go ahead and reinstall your dash.Go ahead and pour what coolant you can into the block while it's not running.Do a full brake bleed and bleed that clutch!Install your new ECUIt's time to plug in your battery.Now there's a couple ways to reprogram your new ECU. Dealership or on your own very inexpensively.You'll need to do this to change the VIN on the ECU and allow it to communicate with your security system (immobilizer etc)Here is a link to the process on your own: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102810 Once you finish that you can flash your new ECU with your specified tune. (again all on you)Turn it overEnjoy!!Please feel free to ask any questions. I will try to reply here as much as possible but I'm always available on Instagram for something quick.It's 100% worth it. Have fun!

Amazing, but I'm still a fanboy of my auto car right now after driven plenty of manuals in the past. I think I'd rather spend my $1500-$2000 and the labor time on a 4.88 install and a transmission cooler. But it's amazing the capability of the swap is this simple. Amazing, but I'm still a fanboy of my auto car right now after driven plenty of manuals in the past. I think I'd rather spend my $1500-$2000 and the labor time on a 4.88 install and a transmission cooler. But it's amazing the capability of the swap is this simple.

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