It’s deep fall in New England, and I’m looking to work apples into any dish I can. I’m starting here with a rich baked apple pancake, often called a “German apple pancake.” Not necessarily what Americans recognize as a pancake, this is like a large, slightly sweet, apple-studded popover, crisp at the edges and tender at the center. It emerges from the oven tall at the sides but deflates quickly. The formula also lends itself well to savory flavors, such as cheddar cheese, shallots, and thyme.

Makes 1 10-inch pancake, serves 4

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

¾ teaspoon finely grated zest and 1 teaspoon juice from 1 small lemon


2/3 cup all-purpose flour

Salt

3 large eggs plus 1 yolk, at room temperature

2/3 cup whole milk, at room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, 1 of them melted

1 pound crisp sweet apples (about 2 medium), peeled, cored, and cut into ½-inch-thick slices

2 tablespoons light brown sugar

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Confectioners’ sugar, for sprinkling

With the rack in the middle position, heat the oven to 450 degrees. In a medium bowl, stir the granulated sugar and lemon zest until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Sift the flour into the bowl, add ¾ teaspoon salt, whisk to combine, and make a well in the center.

In a small bowl, whisk the eggs and yolk vigorously until very foamy, about 1 minute. Add the milk, vanilla, and 1 tablespoon melted butter, and whisk to combine. Pour into the well in the dry ingredients and whisk until combined and smooth (do not overbeat).

In a 10-inch nonstick or seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium heat, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon butter. When the bubbling subsides, add apple slices, brown sugar, cinnamon, and a pinch of salt, and cook, swirling skillet occasionally, until apples are barely tender, about 5 minutes, carefully turning apple slices halfway through. Add lemon juice and swirl gently to combine.


Working quickly, pour about two-thirds of the batter around the edge of pan and the rest over the apples. Place the skillet in the oven, adjust temperature to 425, and bake until the pancake edges are browned and have risen above the skillet rim, 17 to 22 minutes. Taking care with the screaming hot skillet, work a heatproof flexible spatula around the edges of the pancake to loosen. Transfer onto a serving plate. Cut in quarters and serve at once, sprinkling with confectioners’ sugar.

TIP: Toss the grated apple with a little sugar to draw out and drain the extra liquid. Drier apples help keep the pancake’s texture light. Photograph by Jim Scherer / Styling by Catrine Kelty

VARIATION

> Savory Cheddar Baked Apple Pancake

Makes 1 10-inch pancake, serves 4

Follow the directions for the Baked Apple Pancake, making the following changes:

1) In the dry ingredient mixture, reduce the sugar to 1 tablespoon, omit the zest, increase the salt to 1 teaspoon, and add ¾ cup lightly packed, coarsely grated extra sharp cheddar.

2) Before adding the wet ingredients (omit the vanilla) to the dry, heat 1 tablespoon butter in the skillet over medium heat. When the bubbling subsides, add ½ cup finely chopped shallots, 1½ teaspoons minced fresh thyme, and ¼ teaspoon salt, and saute, stirring, until the shallots begin to soften, about 4 minutes. Scrape mixture into the wet ingredients and whisk to combine.

3) When sauteing the apples, omit the cinnamon and substitute 1 tablespoon granulated sugar for the brown sugar.

4) Pour batter into skillet as directed and quickly sprinkle surface evenly with 2 tablespoons coarsely grated extra sharp cheddar. Bake until lightly browned on top, 23 to 26 minutes.


5) Omit the confectioners’ sugar.

APPLE PANCAKES

Makes about 24 4-inch pancakes

1 pound crisp sweet apples (about 2 medium), peeled, cored, and coarsely grated (about 2 cups)

2½ tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 cups whole milk

1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 large egg, beaten

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

Salt

Neutral oil, as necessary

In a strainer set over a bowl, toss the grated apple with 1 tablespoon sugar and set aside to drain for 30 minutes. With a spoon, press lightly on the apples to extract as much liquid as possible. Add the cinnamon to the apples, toss to coat, and set aside.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk the milk and lemon juice and let stand for the 30 minutes it takes the apples to drain. Add the egg, melted butter, and vanilla, and whisk to combine. In a large bowl, whisk the flour, baking powder, baking soda, remaining sugar, and ½ teaspoon salt to combine. Make a well in the center, add the milk mixture and apples, and beat to just combine (the batter should be slightly lumpy; do not overmix).Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium heat for about 4 minutes; add 1 teaspoon oil and brush to coat the bottom of the skillet. Using a ¼-cup measure, scoop about 3 tablespoons batter into the skillet; repeat until the skillet is filled, leaving about 1 inch between the pancakes. Cook, without moving the pancakes, until bubbles appear and the surface begins to look drier, about 2½ minutes. Flip the pancakes and cook until golden brown on second side, about 2 minutes longer. Serve at once. Meanwhile, repeat with the remaining batter, using 1 teaspoon oil per batch if necessary.


Adam Ried appears regularly on America’s Test Kitchen. Send comments to cooking@globe.com.

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