A dozen years back, he said, if you wanted Westvleteren 12 you just drove out to St. Sixtus and bought some. Now, he said, in nice weather the line of cars waiting to buy the beer can stretch for three miles.

The pick-me-up for the local economy could not come at a better time, with Belgium feeling the recession afflicting all of Europe. Out in Liège, in the east, a major steel works announced in January that it was laying off 1,300 people; a month earlier, Ford said it would close a car plant in nearby Genk, affecting as many as 10,000 jobs.

Image Credit... The New York Times

Yet beer, for the moment, keeps little Vleteren nicely afloat.

In recent years a second microbrewery has sprung up, perhaps inspired by the monks. In 2005, several local people who ran an ostrich farm began producing a dark beer of the strong 12 percent type similar to what the monks brew. Now, demand for their dark strong ales and stouts, branded as De Struise — Dutch for the ostrich — is so great that the company is expanding into a disused school building.

Urbain Coutteau, 51, the fledgling brewery’s brew master, leads a visitor through a warehouse of used oak casks, some from Kentucky that once stored bourbon and others from wine-growing regions of France, that are now used for aging the beer. The monks of St. Sixtus, he says, are not competitors. “I regard them as holy colleagues, that’s just the word,” he said. “If I want to visit them, I just go out there; we have a good relationship, we respect each other.”