Smack-dab in the middle of Alabama is where the “Magic City” has come to rise. Right in a valley, surrounded by forested mountain ridges, Birmingham is riding an alluring evolution. Young people are flocking home to open up restaurants, bars, hotels, shops, and startups—and it’s as if this Southern city has been waiting just for them.

The day and night whistle of trains dashing through the city is its signature sound—since the days of mineral mining in 1861. And two statues, an iron Vulcan on the city’s Red Mountain ridge, and a gold Electra on one of the city’s tallest buildings, are its icons. Its signature smell? Smoky barbecue, of course. Birmingham is exactly the “Sweet Home Alabama” delight you would expect. Throw in some extra Southern charm, mix that with all this new entrepreneurial spirit, and the upshot is a perfect weekend combination of sunshine and fun.

Here’s a quick guide on how to fully enjoy the city with some pizazz.

Where to Feast

Ovenbird, from chef-owner and James Beard Award–winner Chris Hastings, is where to get your small plate fix—a burning beef fat candle on your lemon cream table side sets the tone. Inspired by grill and live fire pit cooking from all over the world, the restaurant pays some homage to the iron ore history of Birmingham, dating back two centuries.