SLIPPER: Worked back and forth on needle in garter st, i.e. K all rows. Cast on 28-31-35 sts on needle size 6 mm / US 10 with Eskimo. Insert a marker after 22-24-26 sts as seen from RS (6-7-9 sts = toe). Continue back and forth on needle (Row 1 = RS), but on every 4th row (i.e. on every other row from RS) turn before marker in order to work fewer rows on toe. NOTE: When turning mid piece, tighten thread extra hard before to avoid a hole. Continue like this until piece measures 8-9-10 cm / 3"-3½"-4". On next row from RS bind off the first 14-16-17 sts = 14-15-18 sts left on needle. Continue as before on these sts for approx 2-2-3 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-1" (measured where widest). Now cast on 14-16-17 new sts at the end of next row from WS = 28-31-35 sts. Continue back and forth as before until piece measures 8-9-10 cm / 3"-3½"-4" from where new sts were cast on. Bind off LOOSELY. ASSEMBLY: Pull a thread through outer loops of sts on toe, tighten tog and fasten. Beg by toe and sew slipper tog edge to edge in outer loops of sts under foot and up along the heel. Fasten thread. Make 1 more slipper.

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter . We recommend you to always work a test swatch .

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.