Not long ago, quinoa was as mysterious as dark matter. Few could even pronounce the name of this ancient, disk-shaped “super grain” from the Andes, mistakenly calling it kwih-NO-ah (it’s KEEN-wah). It tasted a little strange, home cooks didn’t know what to do with it and only vegan restaurants put it on menus.

Now quinoa is everywhere, and seemingly everyone knows everything about it. You probably recognize its grassy flavor and faintly crunchy texture. If I told you that it’s not a grain at all, but rather a chenopod related to spinach and beets, you probably wouldn’t be surprised. And perhaps you know that worldwide demand for quinoa has become so high that many of those who live in the regions of Bolivia where the crop is grown can no longer afford to buy it.

Yet we still don’t explore quinoa’s full potential, probably because when it’s simmered until fluffy and just tender, quinoa is an admirable base for a salad or a pilaf. But real rewards await those who push it a bit. For example, quinoa makes a delicious risotto. Cook it long enough, and its starches begin to release; cook it even further, and you can form the quinoa into cakes for pan-frying, without adding bread crumbs or eggs (though you should still handle them gently).

My favorite new quinoa obsession is transforming it into crunchy crumbs. You boil it, spread the tender grains on a rimmed baking sheet, toss them with seasonings and roast until crackling and crisp. Sprinkle them on salads, stir-fry dishes, pastas or anything else you might be inclined to finish with toasted bread crumbs or chopped nuts. Little about quinoa may surprise us these days, but to me this is nearly revolutionary.