<---- This photo shows how I tied the batteries down to the rack. I punched some holes in the bottom of the plastic box to allow the tie down wires to wrap around the rack. Perhaps a better solution would be to use a small ratchet strap. Just make sure the batteries are very firmly attached to the rack. Otherwise mounting and removing the drive unit from the bike is very cumbersome.





































Spend however much time is necessary to get a solid concentric fit between the skateboard wheel and the motor shaft. If the skateboard wheel wobbles at all it causes extreme wear on the motor bearings.





I put grip tape around the wheel to help it maintain a solid grip on the back tire. I got the stuff sold by Home Depot intended for outdoor use on steps and ladder treads.

It is still sticking tight after several miles.





The rear tire of my bike had a row of knobs down the center that would have caused a problem with the drive wheel bouncing and loosing contact with the tire.



Rather than buying a hybrid tire with a smooth strip down the center, I just sliced off the center knobs with a razor knife. It didn't hurt the tire a bit, and actually helped smooth out the ride when I'm not using the motor.

I never ride off-road anyway.













The rack came with a variety of spacers to provide a tight fit to the seat post. I only kept the largest one, and the only reason for it is to prevent metal to metal contact and scratching. It's important to allow the rack to have some freedom of movement up and down so the weight of the motor and batteries help the skateboard wheel keep pressure on the bike tire. Also, it makes it very easy to remove the whole unit from the bike.





















Another idea I had before going with the plywood brace was bolting a pair of pipes to the frame just below the seat post that would extend up at an angle.

I didn't do that because I didn't want to drill additional holes through my frame. Also, I already had had some plywood on hand.





Make sure this brace has good stability side to side. It is important to keep the rack lined up solidly with the rear tire.





My brace is held in place by a single quarter inch bolt, so removing it only takes a minute.





I think something similar should work on most bikes. I had a perfectly positioned hole through a brace on my frame to fasten it down. Lacking that, it would pretty easy to install the same arrangement with a couple of small u bolts.























































There are probably better things than a trailer light connector for the purpose of connecting the throttle wires, but I had one in my junk pile.





































