Author Message

Mr.Duncan







Joined: May 12, 2012

Posts: 3377

Location: Houston, TX

Samba MemberJoined: May 12, 2012Posts: 3377Location: Houston, TX

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 7:54 am Post subject: 1971 Super Beetle Rebuild thread (not another!)



Bought my first VW Super Beetle, from California shipped her over to Texas.





So, today Pulled my engine on my new 1971 Super Beetle. (doing this to replace all the Tin. missing oil cooler tin haha....



I drove this beetle on the highway, seems fine to me.



Apon removing the engine the nut (or is a bolt?) that is by the clutch cable is missing! wow.











There is no stud in the engine case, is this normal? How should i go about fixing it.



On a closer look you can see in yellow the fresh chips/ scratches in the transmission bell house. the one with the arrow looks to be ground down? (be someone or the engine?) (the area in red, should this be greased?/ it moves side to side up and down just a little too... is that normal?)







The transmission is leaking a rather large amount of oil? (or grease) from the differential.. Where the axles meet the transmission that part of transmission is CAKED in black oil and fresh oil...



Should i just get a newly rebuilt one?



while the engine is out it appears oil leaking from where the case meets the cylinders.... I should do a rebuild while its out anyway.





Please share your thoughts. This is my first time working on any such car! Bought my first VW Super Beetle, from California shipped her over to Texas.So, today Pulled my engine on my new 1971 Super Beetle. (doing this to replace all the Tin. missing oil cooler tin haha....I drove this beetle on the highway, seems fine to me.Apon removing the engine the nut (or is a bolt?) that is by the clutch cable is missing! wow.There is no stud in the engine case, is this normal? How should i go about fixing it.On a closer look you can see in yellow the fresh chips/ scratches in the transmission bell house. the one with the arrow looks to be ground down? (be someone or the engine?) (the area in red, should this be greased?/ it moves side to side up and down just a little too... is that normal?)The transmission is leaking a rather large amount of oil? (or grease) from the differential.. Where the axles meet the transmission that part of transmission is CAKED in black oil and fresh oil...Should i just get a newly rebuilt one?while the engine is out it appears oil leaking from where the case meets the cylinders.... I should do a rebuild while its out anyway.Please share your thoughts. This is my first time working on any such car!



Last edited by Mr.Duncan on Wed May 16, 2012 7:45 pm; edited 1 time in total

drs1023







Joined: October 20, 2011

Posts: 1678

Location: Georgia, USA

Samba MemberJoined: October 20, 2011Posts: 1678Location: Georgia, USA

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 8:45 am Post subject: The top driver side bolt was most likely left out by the last person to pull the engine. Get another one from Ace Hardware with the nut and you'll be fine. MANY, MANY of these bolts are left out in re-installs. Most people figure that if 3 bolts won't hold it, that the 4th one won't do any good either.



Yes, grease the output shaft from the transaxle before you re-install. It is supposed to wiggle a little up and down and sideways. I'd also check the gland nut on the front of the crankshaft which holds the flywheel. There are bearings inside. If they've been run dry, then replace the gland nut and grease it well before re-installing the engine. You can polish the output shaft with crocus cloth or emory cloth. Don't get crazy with high grit sandpaper.



The chips - are you sure they are fresh? I had a small pebble fall into the starter hole once and it caused some spots like this which I noticed when the engine was pulled. I don't believe it's possible that you did this when the engine was pulled. Seems like the lower studs would have held the engine above the housing until the flywheel cleared. No premanent damage, though. Although it doesn't appear to be leaking inside the bell housing, you may as well change the output shaft seal while the engine's out.



You didn't mention mileage on the engine, but, if you are going to rebuild it - don't skimp on quality parts and mic/measure all tolerances before re-using moving parts. It's easier to do right once than to patch it a couple more times.

Mr.Duncan







Joined: May 12, 2012

Posts: 3377

Location: Houston, TX

Samba MemberJoined: May 12, 2012Posts: 3377Location: Houston, TX

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:12 am Post subject: drs1023 wrote: The top driver side bolt was most likely left out by the last person to pull the engine. Get another one from Ace Hardware with the nut and you'll be fine. MANY, MANY of these bolts are left out in re-installs. Most people figure that if 3 bolts won't hold it, that the 4th one won't do any good either.



Yes, grease the output shaft from the transaxle before you re-install. It is supposed to wiggle a little up and down and sideways. I'd also check the gland nut on the front of the crankshaft which holds the flywheel. There are bearings inside. If they've been run dry, then replace the gland nut and grease it well before re-installing the engine. You can polish the output shaft with crocus cloth or emory cloth. Don't get crazy with high grit sandpaper.



The chips - are you sure they are fresh? I had a small pebble fall into the starter hole once and it caused some spots like this which I noticed when the engine was pulled. I don't believe it's possible that you did this when the engine was pulled. Seems like the lower studs would have held the engine above the housing until the flywheel cleared. No premanent damage, though. Although it doesn't appear to be leaking inside the bell housing, you may as well change the output shaft seal while the engine's out.



You didn't mention mileage on the engine, but, if you are going to rebuild it - don't skimp on quality parts and mic/measure all tolerances before re-using moving parts. It's easier to do right once than to patch it a couple more times.



Should i most likely go with a rebuilt tranny because of the leaking?



im assuming it has 70,ooo + because the speedometer stopped working and PO does not know when.



So that missing bolt, is it a stud with a nut? or just a bolt that screws into the engine case.



I was watching the rebuild engine from Bug me video, on how to check if parts are worn/ replacing like cams crank etc. i should follow this im assuming.



Last edited by Mr.Duncan on Wed May 16, 2012 9:14 am; edited 1 time in total

Cadaver







Joined: April 24, 2012

Posts: 2338



Samba MemberJoined: April 24, 2012Posts: 2338

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:13 am Post subject: Re: Pulled engine, Missing Bolts / bell house rubbing Mr.Duncan wrote: So, today Pulled my engine on my new 1971 Super Beetle. (doing this to replace all the Tin. missing oil cooler tin haha....



I drove this beetle on the highway, seems fine to me.

the cooling has overhead, missing tins, reduces the extra capacity.

so when its hot outside (say 120 in shade) and thin air, Colorado springs.

it overheats the motor. (water cars the same , the rad is extra large)





upon removing the engine the nut (or is a bolt?) that is by the clutch cable is missing! wow.

its a bolt and nut, do not run the motor with out this and torqued to spec.







There is no stud in the engine case, is this normal? How should i go about fixing it. the Engine,(not shown) has 2 bottom mount studs

are they Really missing as stated above, if yes , way bad

my guess is you are guesing the that motor had 4 studs, it dont

buy a Bentleys so you dont have to ask all 1000 questions.





On a closer look you can see in yellow the fresh chips/ scratches in the transmission bell house. the one with the arrow looks to be ground down? (be someone or the engine?) (the area in red, should this be greased?/ it moves side to side up and down just a little too... is that normal?)

Q1, A1: the PO never heard of saw of a torque wrench

or was using the starter to align the tranny pilot to the gland with the starter. ONLY YOU Know the torque was on those 3 engine bolts /nuts.

Q2A2: Sachs clutches come with the grease in the box. or you can buy some anywhere. yes, its special.



The transmission is leaking a rather large amount of oil? (or grease) from the differential.. Where the axles meet the transmission that part of transmission is CAKED in black oil and fresh oil...

( that be a leak, fresh is bad, there is only 1 fix, new seals)

some PPL love leaks, depends no rate of leak, if you can keep up....

marks your spot like tony the tiger...

you must discover , is the CV leaking or tranny real.

this is easy, put fresh lube to nose. sniff sniff

Smells like grease ,it is and is CV

smells likey Hypoid GL4 gear lube , it is and is tranny.

if your nose is not trained, then train it, that is so easy

open the side fill plug, on tranny ,dip in finger, sniff sniff, yup Hypoid,(i hope)

(there are rare exceptions, had one car with this fancy GL4/5 syn brand lube

that smelled like honey, but yours will not, i bet.





Should i just get a newly rebuilt one? (tranny? or engine?)

only you know that answer. i can tell you , if you can afford one. or

if you have the patience to keep up with a leak or wife kicked your

bug out of the garage because she just hands the smell of Hypoid lube in the morning... etc. etc... are you a purist, or Bob Dillon guy.



while the engine is out it appears oil leaking from where the case meets the cylinders.... I should do a rebuild while its out anyway.

R&R end to end, never ending...







Please share your thoughts. This is my first time working on any such car!



All old cars are like this,

worn parts

wrong parts

shoddy workmanship

defective new parts (clones)

missing parts.

it's a saga, all old cars, not just vw.

In fact it never ends, as you own the car , you will find more things wrong

and this may end after about 10 years.

Some dont even notice, so long as the 3 pedals work.

_________________

for sale now.

in Samba classifieds....1968 T1.



Last edited by Cadaver on Wed May 16, 2012 9:25 am; edited 2 times in total

Mr.Duncan







Joined: May 12, 2012

Posts: 3377

Location: Houston, TX

Samba MemberJoined: May 12, 2012Posts: 3377Location: Houston, TX

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:18 am Post subject: Re: Pulled engine, Missing Bolts / bell house rubbing [quote="candymustang66"] Mr.Duncan wrote: So, today Pulled my engine on my new 1971 Super Beetle. (doing this to replace all the Tin. missing oil cooler tin haha....



I drove this beetle on the highway, seems fine to me.

the cooling has overhead, missing tins, reduces the extra capacity.

so when its hot outside (say 120 in shade) and thin air, Colorado springs.

it overheats the motor. (water cars the same , the rad is extra large)





upon removing the engine the nut (or is a bolt?) that is by the clutch cable is missing! wow.

its a bolt and nut, do not run the motor with out this and torqued to spec.







There is no stud in the engine case, is this normal? How should i go about fixing it. the Engine,(not shown) has 2 bottom mount studs

are they Really missing as stated above, if yes , way bad

my guess is you are guesing the that motor had 4 studs, it dont

buy a Bentleys so you dont have to ask all 1000 questions.





On a closer look you can see in yellow the fresh chips/ scratches in the transmission bell house. the one with the arrow looks to be ground down? (be someone or the engine?) (the area in red, should this be greased?/ it moves side to side up and down just a little too... is that normal?)

Q1, A1: the PO never heard of saw of a torque wrench

or was using the starter to align the tranny pilot to the gland with the starter. ONLY YOU Know the torque was on those 3 engine bolts /nuts.

Q2A2: Sachs clutches come with the grease in the box. or you can buy some anywhere. yes, its special.



The transmission is leaking a rather large amount of oil? (or grease) from the differential.. Where the axles meet the transmission that part of transmission is CAKED in black oil and fresh oil...

( that be a leak, fresh is bad, there is only 1 fix, new seals)

some PPL love leaks, depends no rate of leak, if you can keep up....

marks your spot like tony the tiger...





Should i just get a newly rebuilt one?

only you know that answer. i can tell you , if you can afford one. or

if you have the patience to keep up with a leak or wife kicked your

bug out of the garage because she just hands the smell of Hypoid lube in the morning... etc. etc... are you a purist, or Bob Dillon guy.



while the engine is out it appears oil leaking from where the case meets the cylinders.... I should do a rebuild while its out anyway.

R&R end to end, never ending...







Please share your thoughts. This is my first time working on any such car!



The bottom two studs are there, There is a bolt that is sitting holding the starter in (remove a nut on the top of the engine)



the only stud/bolt missing was the one by the clutch cable.



Im in the process of replacing ALL the tin. (after i rebuild the engine.)

Cadaver







Joined: April 24, 2012

Posts: 2338



Samba MemberJoined: April 24, 2012Posts: 2338

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:29 am Post subject: you beat me, i had not finished editing, i edit online (lazy)





The bottom two studs are there, There is a bolt that is sitting holding the starter in (remove a nut on the top of the engine)



the only stud/bolt missing was the one by the clutch cable.

im not sure what that is ahh engine BOLT/NUT sure,,,,?



Im in the process of replacing ALL the tin. (after i rebuild the engine.)

make sure your tins are for your year, and if the fan housing is tin

make sure you dont replace it.

not with out careful considerations. buying tins (new) is hard.

most new tins dont fit (clones) or are missing important features.

there are vast posting of the horrors,of this on this forum.



where the 3 engine bolts tight? or not.



replace the

2 lower engine mounts (tranny bell lower to bracket)

fresh ones are cheap and a great idea as , a new starter bushing.

the CV probably need a full service, id bet. but can see em....

_________________

for sale now.

in Samba classifieds....1968 T1.

Mr.Duncan







Joined: May 12, 2012

Posts: 3377

Location: Houston, TX

Samba MemberJoined: May 12, 2012Posts: 3377Location: Houston, TX

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:37 am Post subject: candymustang66 wrote: you beat me, i had not finished editing, i edit online (lazy)





The bottom two studs are there, There is a bolt that is sitting holding the starter in (remove a nut on the top of the engine)



the only stud/bolt missing was the one by the clutch cable.

im not sure what that is ,,,,?



thats the one in the top photo, its only there for the doghouse style fan.

Im in the process of replacing ALL the tin. (after i rebuild the engine.)

make sure your tins are for your year, and if the fan housing is tin

make sure you dont replace it.

not with out careful considerations.



where the 3 engine bolts tight? or not.



replace the

2 lower engine mounts (tranny bell lower to bracket)

fresh ones are cheap and a great idea as , a new starter bushing.

the CV probably need a full service, id bet. but can see em....

they were kinda tight, i need a torque wrench when i re-install to see. most likely going to replace the differential seals.

what do you mean if the fan housing is tin, as in type of metal? im going to send it to awesomepowdercoating guy on the samba to replace any missing parts/ repaint them



drs1023







Joined: October 20, 2011

Posts: 1678

Location: Georgia, USA

Samba MemberJoined: October 20, 2011Posts: 1678Location: Georgia, USA

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:45 am Post subject: Bolt with the nut installed to the rear. Change the transaxle fluid, but you don't need a new one just because of a leak. Does the transmission shift ok? If yes, then you

need to replace seals and gaskets at the leak points. Excessive grinding or noise? If yes, then it's more serious. Previois idea to change mounta is a good one.

Mr.Duncan







Joined: May 12, 2012

Posts: 3377

Location: Houston, TX

Samba MemberJoined: May 12, 2012Posts: 3377Location: Houston, TX

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:58 am Post subject: drs1023 wrote: Bolt with the nut installed to the rear. Change the transaxle fluid, but you don't need a new one just because of a leak. Does the transmission shift ok? If yes, then you

need to replace seals and gaskets at the leak points. Excessive grinding or noise? If yes, then it's more serious. Previois idea to change mounta is a good one.



IT shifts fine, only issue ive had, is when sometimes coming from 3rd down to 2nd. it grinds like its going into reverse gear (clutch all the way in)



so i go back up to 3rd and try for 2nd again and get it most the time....



any thoughts? IT shifts fine, only issue ive had, is when sometimes coming from 3rd down to 2nd. it grinds like its going into reverse gear(clutch all the way in)so i go back up to 3rd and try for 2nd again and get it most the time....any thoughts?

drs1023







Joined: October 20, 2011

Posts: 1678

Location: Georgia, USA

Samba MemberJoined: October 20, 2011Posts: 1678Location: Georgia, USA

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 11:46 am Post subject: You may be trying to go into reverse (unintentionally of course). The shifter plate located under the two 8 mm bolts holding down the shifter may be worn or mis-adjusted - or the shifter itself could be worn out, or shift shaft bushing worn/missing, or shift coupler worn out. Or it could be solved with the new clutch and pressure plate you will install after rebuild.



I recommend Bentley manuals on VW's 'cause that is what I'm accustomed to. I have a Muir's book that came with a car a few years ago but rarely refer to it out of habit. The manuals will give you detailed information on how to adjust the shifter plate to ensure positive lockout against shifting into reverse rather than second. Again - may be the transmission, but probably not. Adjusting the shift plate or changing the coupler is easy, but the shift shaft bushing takes a while.



See, there's never a simple answer.

Mr.Duncan







Joined: May 12, 2012

Posts: 3377

Location: Houston, TX

Samba MemberJoined: May 12, 2012Posts: 3377Location: Houston, TX

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 6:42 pm Post subject:











Soo.. anyone come into this problem before?



This three will be my progress/finds for my Beetle So, i pulled the engine all the way out to find... the part of the case that meets the transmission the top of it has some chips, BUT it still makes clean full contact with the tranny bell housing.. i hope this isn't a issue?Soo.. anyone come into this problem before?This three will be my progress/finds for my Beetle

Mr.Duncan







Joined: May 12, 2012

Posts: 3377

Location: Houston, TX

Samba MemberJoined: May 12, 2012Posts: 3377Location: Houston, TX

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 7:06 pm Post subject: Glenn wrote: I wouldn't worry about it.



I was able to wiggle 2 spark plugs just barely... I'm a summing ill need new heads?

Vinnems







Joined: December 23, 2008

Posts: 1181

Location: Simi Valley, CA

Samba MemberJoined: December 23, 2008Posts: 1181Location: Simi Valley, CA

Posted: Wed May 16, 2012 9:57 pm Post subject: What's with your engine lid? Looks like it has a big chunk of something attached to the inside.

Volkscab







Joined: March 19, 2011

Posts: 23

Location: Belgium

Samba MemberJoined: March 19, 2011Posts: 23Location: Belgium

Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 4:18 am Post subject: Vinnems: Underside of engine lid is an original feature, albeit re-sprayed (attachment should be black, like the other engine tin). It collects rain that might enter the air grills in the lid. There should be two hoses, one each side, to channel any water to the base of the lid and then out through drain holes.

Volkscab







Joined: March 19, 2011

Posts: 23

Location: Belgium

Samba MemberJoined: March 19, 2011Posts: 23Location: Belgium

Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 4:24 am Post subject: Vinnems: Underside of engine lid is an original feature, albeit re-sprayed (attachment should be black, like the other engine tin). It collects rain that might enter the air grills in the lid. There should be two hoses, one each side, to channel any water to the base of the lid and then out through drain holes.

Mr.Duncan







Joined: May 12, 2012

Posts: 3377

Location: Houston, TX

Samba MemberJoined: May 12, 2012Posts: 3377Location: Houston, TX

Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 6:55 am Post subject: Volkscab wrote: Vinnems: Underside of engine lid is an original feature, albeit re-sprayed (attachment should be black, like the other engine tin). It collects rain that might enter the air grills in the lid. There should be two hoses, one each side, to channel any water to the base of the lid and then out through drain holes.



Yes. i am searching for the rubber grommets that go in the holes to hold the pipes on.

Vinnems







Joined: December 23, 2008

Posts: 1181

Location: Simi Valley, CA

Samba MemberJoined: December 23, 2008Posts: 1181Location: Simi Valley, CA

Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 11:56 pm Post subject: Huh. Honestly, I've never seen one before. Thanks for learning me, Volkscab.

LeviMan2001







Joined: April 11, 2009

Posts: 3855

Location: Alaska

Samba Post WhoreJoined: April 11, 2009Posts: 3855Location: Alaska

Posted: Fri May 18, 2012 3:11 am Post subject:

_________________

- My '73 Super Build. 2332cc, 16" Fuchs Woah now I don't know what everyone is talking about, but that missing bolt is not a missing nut and bolt. It's just a bolt, see that round thing on the other side of the flange on the motor? That's a threaded insert, there should be a bolt that just bolts into the motor there. So on the motor you have four attachment thingys, two nuts on studs at the bottom, a nut and bolt on the top left (looking at the flywheel side), and the bolt I just mentioned on the top right._________________ http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=366056 - My '73 Super Build. 2332cc, 16" Fuchs