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Despite what the poultry-industrial complex might have you believe, the meat of Thanksgiving is not turkey but tension: What celebration of shared humanity would be complete without an argument? (The gratitude part is important, too, I’m told, but we’ll get to that later.)

In an effort to stoke festive controversy, I asked Pete Wells, The Times’s chief restaurant critic, Kim Severson, an Atlanta-based Food reporter, Julia Moskin, also a Food reporter, and Sam Sifton, the Food editor, to take sides in some of the holiday’s most entrenched culinary conflicts.