In the Hungarian village of Kisasszond, Peter Róna's gourmet cheese factory is fermenting a quiet rebellion against the European Union.

A senior fellow in economics at Oxford University, Mr Róna hoped to put his theories into practice by setting up the cheeserie, which employs 12 families in what he calls the "backwaters" of Hungary.

The eccentric project, which has won international awards for its soft and smoked cheeses, has proven a roaring success.

There is just one major problem: Mr Róna's prize cheese-makers keep leaving Hungary.

“I had a very nice fellow who I trained up to be a very competent cheese-maker, and now he’s leaving to make cheese in Switzerland,” he told the Telegraph.