A marinade in fermented rice shio koji tenderizes and amplifies the natural savor of the simple chicken breast skewers, which get dipped in a sweet tamari-sake glaze for a final caramelization on the grill. My favorite skewers, though, come from the bird’s darker quarters, including the slivers of thigh meat pressed between crunchy scallions and the excellent meatballs seasoned with ginger and shaoxing wine that take on a smoky char before they’re served alongside a dip of katsu sauce with an egg yolk added for richness. The chicken liver skewers are one clear nod to to Puchowitz’s Jewish roots, along with the charred Japanese milk toast topped with chicken liver mousse spiked with sweet mirin and tamari. But the most memorable chicken moment was the hot shot of restorative chicken broth — steeped from the carcasses and tanged with a citrusy whiff of yuzu — that was a bonus offering to the yakitori tasting that brought six different sticks for $18. I could have drunk a bowl.