Return to EXIT: Serbian Festival proves to be just as good the second time around



In July Novi Sad, which is 50 miles north of Belgrade, plays host to one of Europe’s biggest and most popular music events, the 4-day long EXIT Festival.



Last year was my second visit to the huge music event and before I’d even left Serbia I was already planning to go back for a third time.



The journey begins in Serbia’s capital, Belgrade. This is where the majority of international flights land in Serbia, and it's from here that you can make your way around the country, either by train or road.



Where the magic happens: Novi Sad's breathtaking Petrovaradin fortress where the EXIT Festival takes place every year

Wrecked: One of very few buildings that still bears the scars of Serbia's troubled years

Novi Sad, where EXIT takes place is 40km north of Belgrade, easy to reach by road or the infamous ‘party train’ which carries revellers from all over Europe to the festival.



A few hours after landing we’re taken on a tour of the city which was bombarded by NATO in 1999.



Almost two decades on and, of course, it is a completely different city - modern, cosmopolitan and complimented by a melting pot of cultural influences – Turkish, Russian and Roman predominantly, as well as Serbia itself and surrounding nations.



Dotted around the city are stark reminders of the war, with a few buildings decimated by the bombing still standing in a state of disrepair, including the former Yugoslavian Ministry of Defence building.



But these kind of sights are in the minority and eclipsed by the pride of Belgrade, St Sava’s Temple, a stunning building that dominates the city’s skyline.



Designed by Aleksandar Deroko and Branko Pešić, the temple stands a mighty 70 metres tall and is a sight to behold.



Still incomplete, the construction relies on public donations, it is one of the largest Catholic cathedrals in the world.

Landmark: Inside the spectacular St Sava cathedral in Belgrade

Picturesque: The Kalemegdan fortress in Belgrade

A stroll along Prince Michael Street and up to the city's Kalemegdan fortress showcases the city’s varied attractions - whether you want to go shopping, see the sights or simply sit down for some delicious Serbian food.



That's not to mention the many nightclubs and bars that spring to life when night falls. Bars and clubs can be found in the centre of Belgrade, or a little further out along the banks of the Danube.



Highly recommended is The World Traveller Club, an underground that only those in the know will be able to direct you to.

In war times, Serbs would congregate in secret in the basements of apartment blocks to talk politics and drown their sorrows.



In the years that have passed some of these basements have remained open as businesses, but they are still relatively difficult to track down.



After an all too brief few hours in Belgrade, we drive to Novi Sad and head for the EXIT festival…

Amazing views: A view of Belgrade and the Danube from the Kalemegdan fortress

FACT BOX

Wizz Air are now running direct flights to Belgrade, starting from as little as £75rtn. See www.wizzair.com for more information.

Tourist board: www.serbia.travel EXIT Festival: www.exitfest.org JAT Airways www.jat.com 10 flights a week from London Heathrow

Hotel Aleksandar, Novi Sad: www.aleksandar.co.rs Indjija tourist office: www.indjija-tourism.com Salas 137, Novi Sad: www.salas137.rs

Held in the breathtaking Petrovaradin fortress, atop a hill overlooking the Danube, there is no other festival held in such a location in the world.



It all started twelve years ago when three Serbian students set up stages close to one of their university's faculties in the southern town of Novi Sad where they held a festival that ended up lasting 100 days.



In a time when their country was recovering from a vicious war, and the political situation was still very fragile, this was an event that preceded the overthrow of the then president Slobodan Miloševic.



The festival attracts a stellar, and very eclectic, line up every year - a testament both to the organisers and the prestige of the festival itself.



In fact, aside from the huge Main Arena and Dance Arena, there are around 20 other stages where you can find everything from death metal to reggae.



On the first night we caught the likes of Mika, LCD Soundsystem, Chromeo and DJ Shadow.



Mika in particular is a huge draw, attracting a huge crowd – mainly of screaming girls, who shout ‘Miiiiikaaaaaa’ constantly thoughout his extravagant and colourful show.



The performance ends with a big group of dancers appearing on stage all dressed up as weird and wonderful animals, the bright and bold colours matching Mika’s happy, upbeat music.



Admittedly, Mika isn’t my bag at all – but his music has an appeal that transcends generations.



Later in the evening, 4am to be precise, I make my way to the main stage to catch dubstep heavyweight Plastician and MC Flo Dan.



Colourful: Mika closes his brilliant performance at the EXIT Festival last year

By this time you may expect that the crowd have petered out somewhat… not so, as I walk into the main arena I’m confronted with a crowd of at least 10,000 still dancing like there’s no tomorrow.



On my way home I get ‘accosted’ by some Dutch who grab me and draw a beard and moustache on my face.



Part of appeal of any festival is the general feeling amongst everyone that we’re there for a good time, in all my time at the festival I’ve never seen one fight or one confrontation which is remarkable considering the amount of people (90,000) who make the trip to EXIT every year.



The next day we get to take a look at the city of Novi Sad itself - where, interestingly, Albert Einstein’s first wife once resided.



Again, like Belgrade it is a city steeped in a rich cultural history with a variety of influences pouring into it mainly from the north, Macedonia, and neighbouring countries.



But, unlike the capital, it has a far slower pace of life ...one of their mantras, we’re told, is “There’s enough time”.



Rocking it: Dubstep star Plastician plays to a huge crowd in the main arena

It has that relaxed nature often found in a city that doesn’t have the burden of being a country’s capital.



Food at local restaurant Sokace is immense. We’re treated to a filling three-course meal, the centrepiece of which is a huge ‘boat’ of grilled meats, prepared on site by the restaurant’s hard working chef.



A short walking tour of the centre of the city takes in takes in the main square where we see a statue of the infamous Serbian freedom fighter Svetozar Miletic.



The poet, who was also mayor of Novi Sad, was the founder and leader of the Srpska Narodna Slobodoumna Stranka (People's Serb Freethinkers Party) and is a highly regarded historical figure in the province and across the country.



On the second night of the festival German ‘digital hardcore’ band Atari Teenage Riot are on as we make our way into the main arena and they’re an absolute revelation.



Described by one of our group as ‘The Prodigy on crack’, ATR are loud, brash, energetic and totally awesome.



Start the riot: ATR on the main stage at the EXIT Festival

The group have a very political stance, anti-establishment and revolutionary in their ideology, we stay for the duration of their performance which is the highlight of the festival so far.



On the third day we head to Indjija, half an hour’s drive from Novi Sad, where we take wooden fishing boats along the Danube and its tributaries.



The boats take us on a tour of some of the hidden treasures around the river areas full of wildlife and amazing scenery, the likes of which make this a very special journey.



We’re treated to a huge dinner a dinner put on by a local family, at the Ethno farm Mehandzic, where we eat on the balcony of their home which overlooks the Danube. It provides a breathtaking backdrop to our meal.



Just a few minutes from the family’s home is Hotel Bozic, which stands on the bank of the Danube - two-bed rooms here start at an incredibly low, £17.70 (21Euros). Amazing value considering the surroundings.



A late entry to the festival and we catch U.S. rap star Missy Elliot and, later in a jam-packed Dance Arena, David Guetta.



Dance until dawn: Sunrise in the Dance Arena at EXIT 2010

Missy Elliot is a stalwart of the rap scene and one its leading ladies.



She entertains the crowd with a brilliant loud, bass-driven set, though sadly doesn’t perform for very long.



Highlight of her performance is when she decides to get down off the stage and head out into the crowd and rap in the middle of all the revellers in the front row. I’ve never seen so many security men look so worried and stressed in all my life. Brilliant.



As the sun rises during Guetta’s set he tells the crowd ‘This is the most amazing night of my life’ – undoubtedly he says this at every gig, but for some of the thousands of festival goers in the Dance Arena, it’s completely true.



Guetta’s updeat, yet cheesy dance music resonates with the crowd like no other DJ we’ve seen so far, as the first few chimes of Memories (ft. Kid Cudi) sound off, a huge rush of energy spreads through the crowd.



It’s a special moment, and the lyrics couldn’t be any more perfect… ‘All the crazy s*** I did tonight, those would be the best memories.’



Final coutndown: The festival draws to a close with DJ A-Trak on the decks

The next day we visit the delightful Salas 137 farmhouse, which is home to an outdoor restaurant - perfect in the early summer warmth.



The site also houses stables, a riding school, rustic farmhouse accomodation and of course the 150-seater restaurant where we have our lunch.



In these kind of surroundings it’s very difficult not to fall in love with Serbia. It’s people are friendly and welcoming - while the scenery speaks for itself.



The final night at the festival is one to remember as we prepare to bid farewell to Serbia and toast ‘Ziveli’ (that’s cheers) to the nation that, along with the rest of the Balkans, is becoming one of the world’s top tourist destinations.



The Chemical Brothers are the main headliners on the last night, their bizarre stage set up put a dampener on the performance though.



Sometimes simplicity should override showmanship – however, that said, the music was nothing short of epic as you’d expect from two modern dance legends.



We spend the remainder of the night in the Dance Arena where French DJ Busy P, of Ed Banger Records, pretty much flattens the area in front of him with a selection of dubstep and high-energy house tracks.



DJ A-Trak, who brother was performing with Chromeo earlier in the week, closes the festival… playing in broad daylight from 7am until 9 he keeps the energy levels high. So much so, the majority of the party people left at 9am really don’t want to go home.



Two years at the festival and I’m not tired of it yet, in fact I’ve just booked my return.



This year’s event promises to be the best yet with a line-up that includes Jamiroquai, Arcade Fire, The Editors, Magnetic Man, Portishead, Groove Armada and deadmau5. That’s not even including the superstar DJs on the bill and the rest of the festival’s eclectic stages.

