Culture call

The culinary trail

So long

Must-do things in Lucknow

1. Culture call 2. The culinary trail 3. So long 4. Must-do things in Lucknow It's a place you must visit—for the craft, for the palate, for the soul, but mostly to discover the Ganga-Jamuni tehzeeb that exists despite the surround sound of politics. It’s Lucknow, the city that wakes up to the muezzin’s call, trundles at its own unique pace unhurried by the din and surrenders to the night under the clanging of temple bells.You do it when you see a mural of the man who looks suspiciously like Sir Cliff Richard; you do it when you devour a sweet-and-sour combination of chickpea patties dunked in yoghurt (chaat) along with the basket it’s presented in; you do it when you are told about street fights laden with utter finesse in language (Sample: ‘Sahab, aap ko sharam nahin aati galat side pe parking karne mein’ loosely translated to ‘Sir, you should be ashamed about parking on the wrong side of the road.’).You smile. As you should; you’re in the land that was Cliff Richard’s birthplace, the best-chaat-in-any-city competition winner and the land that lives up to its tagline: ‘Muskuraiye ki aap Lucknow mein hain’.For a first-timer, the capital of Uttar Pradesh offers a plethora of tourist-y options. We work out a three-day time-travel itinerary for you to soak in the old-world charm of Oudh, mixed with a few modern must-dos.Excited about being in a land that prides itself on the cultural renaissance it experienced a few centuries ago, we check in at the city’s latest five-star property Hyatt Regency Lucknow in Vibhuti Khand, Gomti Nagar. Kumar Shobhan, the general manager, a Lucknow boy himself, gives us a quick take on how through the launch they wanted to keep the stay experience contemporary while focussing on service as the hallmark for the property. “Our passionate, caring and well-trained team, along with the inherent style associated with our brands, will set the stage for dynamic interactions—from a quick coffee meeting to shared culinary experiences, our guests can come together to socialise, collaborate or celebrate.” With 206 guestrooms, including 19 suites, the hotel offers elegantly decorated, bright and spacious accommodations.We chose to take a suite, which came prepped with the essentials, plus the bells and whistles.From the 43-inch LED HD television, multi-functional workspace, comfortable seating zone and well-appointed bathroom to the awesome Regency Club access, our stay was what they call ‘Nawabi’ with an edge. This, when the sightseeing is yet to begin.To move around the city, dress comfortably, carry a scarf, and preferably hire a cab. For us, the journey into Lucknow’s history began from traversing the worn-out lanes of old Oudh. Chowk, the area where you find the now famous tunday kebab (yes, the same melt-in-the-mouth kebabs, which legend says were created for a toothless prince). In the labyrinthine lanes of Chowk, you find the most exquisite chikankari shops. Handmade chikan is a craftsperson’s labour of love and is priced way higher than machine embroidery. Preferably travel with a local to get the best deal. Suffice to say that our shopping left us with extra baggage worth its weight in gold on our return journey.Soul-satisfying shopping out of the way, next on our agenda was Idris ki biryani. For those who came in late, Idris ki biryani serves the singular purpose of death by cholesterol but not without good reason. The hearty dum biryani is slow-cooked and has a quality that makes my mouth moist even as I write about it today. A culinary experience that cannot be missed.Next up, we headed to Bara Imambara for a culture check, and also a long walk within its premises. The world’s largest arched monument, Bara Imambara houses a three-storeyed building used for prayers, Asafi mosque, bhul bhulaiya (a maze of corridors), a stepped well, multiple courtyards and well-manicured lawns. Built in the 18th century by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula with an altruistic motive—to provide employment to citizens during the year of the big famine in 1785. Eleven years later, the complex came together and so did the line: ‘Jisko na de maula, usko de Asaf-ud-Daula’ (‘To whom god does not give, Asaf-ud-Daula gives’). The interiors with their gaudy green paint may not do full justice to the magnificence of the imposing structure, but it still is an architectural marvel standing without the support of pillars.On our agenda is also the Chhota Imambara, which is built with elements of Persian and Indo-Islamic architecture. This one is a smaller congregation hall built by Nawab Muhammad Ali Shah and it now serves as his and his family’s mausoleum. Its golden dome, which is visible from a distance, minarets and turrets make the building one of the grandest structures in sight.Enter the Rumi Darwaza. Again, built by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, it is the striking gateway that leads into old Lucknow. Inspired by the Istanbul Sublime Porte, today it connects the Bara Imambara to the Chhota Imambara.It’s now past sundown, and we head back to the hotel. Just in time for a little tipple. The lounge known as UP’s metamorphoses into a lively bar in the evening. A social venue with a menu of creative cocktails inspired by local ingredients and spices is just what the doctor ordered. You can try the Muradabadi Mule (a vodka-ginger ale-lime juice mix), Kakori Mary (a vodka-kakori masala-tomato juice concoction) or The Chowk (a tequila-berry-tamarind-salt cocktail) or like me, the Bareilly ka Jhumka, which brings together vodka with jamun juice and lime. It’s a heady, happy night out.It’s day two. And Lucknow’s hidden treasures beckon. But not before a landmark visit. The morning is spent in Hazratganj, where Universal booksellers stands tall at the entrance. The treasures you find in this bookstore should not remain untold. Run by the genial Manav Prakash and family, it has kept pace with time and is now known as north India’s biggest bookmall, both offline and online. Multiple chikankari outlets and designer clothing stores dot Hazratganj but we walk undistracted to Moti Mahal for kulfi falooda that deserves a deafening applause. There is, of course, basket chaat at Royal Cafe just a few steps ahead, but the real piece de resistance has got to be Sharma Chaat in Lalbagh. How do we articulate the glory of dahi bhallas that come freshly prepared from heaven? We don’t. We simply eat. And then some.All this eating needs to be given a break and we do so with a few more history lessons. Off to the Residency, a ruined precinct, which housed British residences till the 1857 revolution occurred. During the siege thousands of British men, women, children went under and the cemetery is where they lie. The Lucknow siege lasted for 87 days and marked a milestone in India’s war cry for freedom from the British rule. It’s a place you visit for knowing the past and how consequences of any war claim the innocent.Sombre and reflective, we are taken to the many gardens and parks the city stands for. First up is Shaheed Smarak, a martyrs’ memorial by the river Gomti. Next on the agenda is Buddha Park and Haathi Park, neighbouring gardens that offer great play zones for children.Fun and games done, we are off to the hotel for our appointed dinner at Hyatt Regency’s Thai and Chinese speciality restaurant LukJin. Walter Pereira, director of Food and Beverage, gives us a taste of authentic flavours from the Far East. Appetisers you should choose are chicken in Sichuan style and pomelo salad; for main course, order the chicken siu mai and lamb in black bean sauce with fried rice yang chow style; finish the meal with date pancake. As for the thamthim krop made with coconut milk and water chestnut, we’d like to take a running jump into it.Eating, shopping, history lessons, eating, sightseeing, more eating has been covered in the last two days. So what do we do today, our final day in Lucknow? We eat again. This time at the hotel’s all-day-dining restaurant Rocca, which offers Italian and Awadhi cuisine. The quattro formaggi pizza with mozzarella, provolone, gorgonzola and pecorino is any cheese aficionado’s delight. The fritto misto and gnocchi al pesto make a meal so delightful, you will be back for more.But tired feet need to meet a super-luxuriant massage. Siddh Spa on the property offers beauty and wellness therapies that hark back to ancient wisdom. Based on your desired state of being, one can choose the wellness path of Vatham (tranquillity), Pitham (replenishment) or Kapham (radiance). The spa features four treatment rooms and separate hydro areas for men and women, equipped with steam room and showers. To get rewired and rejuvenated, we try Marma Shastra, a 90-minute massage that blends movements and patterns into a stress-melt experience. The body is relaxed, the mind even more so. Both the city and our stay has been phenomenal. Before we depart, a quick look at the property reveals event facilities running across 18,000 square feet equipped with ballrooms, multi-functional spaces and breakout rooms. A conference is underway, we quietly exit.So we take our grab ’n go muffins and say au revoir to the gorgeous memories created over the last three days. Till we meet again, Lucknow!Locals use the term to describe aimless, leisurely wandering along the city’s poshest and most famous market – Hazratganj. Its wide lanes and by-lanes typically come alive on crisp winter evenings, as families step out to do some window shopping, young lovers throng to the many restaurants that line the wide main road for basket chaats or gol gappas, or friends gather together for a chat or a movie. Do spend some time at the quaint bookstores and enjoy a leisurely browse.For metro-ites starved for space, there is nothing quite as exciting as seeing a patch of green in the city; a place to dig your toes into the grass, lie back and watch the sky as day merges into night. In Lucknow, you are spoilt for choice. Make a trip to Dr Ram Manohar Lohia Park to watch the ducks as they quack about demanding your attention, or jog on the acupressure track for a quick wellness boost. You could also head to the Janeshwar Mishra Park, which claims to be Asia’s 10th largest park, for some boating and to watch the sunset through dancing fountains. Or, like the locals, get a blanket and laze around at the Begum Hazrat Mahal Park. Or even enjoy a lovely view of the city and the Gomti River while enjoying an evening stroll along the Gomti Riverfront Park.Some of the Lucknow’s best-kept secrets lie just outside city limits. For lip-smacking non-veg at wallet-friendly prices, take a short drive to dhabas that locals loves to frequent. Make a pit-stop at Break Point on the Faizabad Road. Gorge on Chicken Masala or Chicken Kalimirch inside one of their huts that offer a rustic ambience. Or, head to Fauji Dhaba on Sitapur Road for the best vegetarian and non-vegetarian fare you have probably had in your life. And for the ultimate Dal Makhani experience in town, do not forget to visit New Gyan Ji Ka Dhaba in Alambagh.Skip those swanky restaurants and hit the streets for food you that will ensure that Lucknow lives in your memories forever. On your bucket list should be Raheem’s in Chowk for delicious Nihari Kulche, Wahid Biryani in Aminabad for a taste of the famous Awadhi Biryani, and Mubeen’s in Chowk for the lip-smacking Pasanda. Alternatively, head to Dastarkhwan in the Ganj for awesome Mutton Boti Kebab, Ulte Tawe Ka Paratha, Chicken Masala, Jafrani Kheer and Sahi Tukda.Alamy, Shutterstock