SOME WINES are known by their grape names (e.g., Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio) and some are identified by their region of origin (e.g., Bordeaux), while certain others are lumped into unhelpfully large groups (e.g. rosé). Spanish whites is another category that may be ridiculously sprawling, with dozens and dozens of white grapes grown in the country, but it's how many wine drinkers think about the whites that come from there—at least the ones that aren't Albariño.

Albariño, the grape grown in the Galicia region in the northwest...