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While the presidents are back on the move – Barack Obama to meet entrepreneurs at an event in Havana, Raúl Castro to ready for a massive state dinner this evening – my colleague Lisa O’Carroll has taken to the streets to talk with Cubans about their country’s future.

The 56-year old blockade has possibly given Cuba unique global status as the only McDonalds-free zones in the world. Despite the burgeoning tourist trade, and the possibility of up to 30 daily flights from the US later this year, there is no virtually no evidence of American culture apart from 1950s Buicks, Plymouths and other motor relics of the pre-revolution days.

There are no fast food chains, no Starbucks, no Coca-Cola (although Coca Cola’s Sprite seems to have sneaked through trade barrier).

American credit cards don’t work and tourists hoping the US dollar is the preferred currency get a rude shock when charged high fees to change them into pesos.

“There is one word that identifies our country since 1868, and that is ‘independence’,” said the concierge at one of the luxury hotels frequented by Americans.

“It is as simple as that,” he said. “Maybe it will be a good thing that McDonalds doesn’t open. It will be the first step towards our death.”

‘Socialism or death’, a billboard reads with Fidel Castro’s face on it. Photograph: Enrique de la Osa/Reuters

He doesn’t expect overnight change flowing from the lifting of trade restrictions and the normalisation of Cuban-American relations Obama visit. Evidently proud of his country’s resistance to succumb to America, he says Obama is just another president visiting Cuba “like Francois Hollande”.

“It is not the Berlin Wall,” he added. “Maybe Russia got Coca Cola and McDonald’s at the end of the Cold War. Today we enjoy Obama’s visit. Maybe the Americans come here and try to invest in our economy but it is important to remember Fidel Castro is still alive.

“He and Raoul have many smart people around them and they will stay in charge. This is our country and Obama’s visit is only a first step to solve our relationship,” he said. “We are in no rush.”

Cuba has spent all week putting on its Sunday best for Obama with fresh Tarmac on all the main roads – that are usually free of traffic – in the city centre.

Just around the corner, the typical Cuban home is equally as grand and elegant, neoclassical or colonial in design, but after almost 60 years of neglect virtually falling down.