Introduction

Having been on numerous expeditions to Everest Base Camp (EBC) during the spring climbing season of April/May, I have had the pleasure to meet climbers of various nationalities that have summited or are attempting to climb Mt Everest.

Mt Everest is known as Sagarmatha (Nepal) and Chomolungma (Tibet, China). It stands at 8,8848m and is the highest mountain in the world.

The striking observation from talking with these climbers is their mental toughness. Willing to push their bodies beyond the average physical human endurance to achieve their goals is an achievement in itself.

Training in an altitude gym in Sydney and running up and down sand dunes, I am inspired by the amount of training a climber puts in. One of these, Scott Elleman, is planning to climb Mt Everest this spring.

Interview

The following is an interview I conducted with Scott prior to departing for Nepal.

Scott Elleman, Mountaineer

Trevor: As an introduction, tell us a little about yourself.

Scott: My name is Scott Elleman and I’m 56, so yes, a baby boomer. Born in Bondi to 10 pound Pom parents, I grew up in England joining the Royal Navy at age 17 and then the Royal Australian Navy following my return to Australia 17 years ago. When not training or thinking or planning the next adventure, I’m working with our Navy helicopter fleet.

Trevor: How did you get into climbing?

Scott: It just happened. One thing led to another and next thing you know you’re hanging somewhere precarious wondering why you couldn’t be like the next door neighbour whose weekly outdoor adventure meant a few rounds of golf and a trip to Aldi. But that’s not me. I guess I started the usual way with hiking and camping and learned to climb in places like Bethesda in Wales and Aviemore in Scotland.

Trevor: What other climbing have you done previously?

Scott: Ha! Lately, just the sand dunes at Cronulla. Seriously though, it’s a great workout for aspiring climbers. Three years ago, I took my boys to Everest Base Camp (EBC) and returned to Nepal one year later to climb Lobuche and up to Camp 2 on Mt Everest. Last year, we had a month in Bolivia climbing Pico Austria, Paqueno Alpamayo, Huayna Potosi and Illamani high camp. Let’s also not forget New Zealand’s beautiful Tasman Glacier and the Remarkables in the South Island. All great preparation for the big one!

Everest, Lhotse and the striking Ama Dablam – on the trail from Namche

Trevor: Why climb Mt Everest?

Scott: I remember back in 2015 when I trekked with my sons to EBC, it was the majesty of the Khumbu Valley that absolutely blew me away. After I had climbed Kala Patthar and looked across the valley at Nuptse, Lohtse and Sagarmatha (Mt Everest), something clicked inside me and resonated in a way that I can’t easily explain. After returning to Australia, I was reading an article in a magazine about Nepal and it just hit me like a tonne of bricks. I had unfinished business and at that point set myself the challenge of a summit attempt on Mt Everest. But that will only ever happen if I’m good enough AND the mountain and weather gods are willing.

Trevor: What are the key elements of your preparation?

Scott: I’ve read and leant a lot about using your body’s own fat reserves for energy and generating slow ‘twitch’ muscles. Most of my training has been based on developing these physiological techniques. Aside from swimming for an active recovery, there are a number of key components to my training plan: weights, distance, stamina and hill climbing.

I carry a weighted pack every day and up the weights for longer hikes around Berowra and the Blue Mountains with as much up and down as I can find. Climbing Cronulla’s sand dunes with 20kg for 3 hours really hits the spot and specialised altitude gyms are brilliant for really knocking the ball out of the park.

Scott and his partner all kitted up with boots and 20kg pack, training hard in the altitude room.

Trevor: What is your favourite go to food at altitude?

Scott: That’s easy – spaghetti and meatballs MRE’s. MRE’s are American Ready to Eat meals and I just love their spaghetti and meatballs.

Trevor: What do you think will be your biggest challenge or challenges in climbing to the summit of Mt Everest?

Scott: Anything and everything is possible, but probably me. I may be my own biggest challenge. Other challenges are staying healthy and averting any frost bite, and assuming that there’s enough spaghetti and meatballs. Also, the mental anguish that comes from being away from your loved ones can be a difficult demon to live with amongst the immense beauty of being in one of the most majestic and powerful places on earth.

Trevor: Which expedition company are you going with and why?

Scott: I chose IMG (International Mountain Guides). Hailing from Seattle, USA, IMG are recognised worldwide as having an exemplary big mountain expedition organisation, excellent client summit percentages and an incredible safety record with accompanied logistics. I have climbed with IMG twice before and find we are a very, very good fit.

Scott climbing up one of the numerous ladders placed in the Khumbu Icefall

Trevor: Where do you see yourself in years to come? Climbing more mountains?

Scott: Definitely more climbing. There is so much to see and do. I’ll keep going until my body gives up. Then spend my remaining years reminiscing on how truly blessed I was to have lived such an amazing life doing what I loved.

Trevor: Finally, if someone wanted to get into mountaineering, what would you suggest their first step to be?

Scott: Start on some small mountains, add some endurance and strength training and get involved. New Zealand has some great introduction to mountaineering courses where you’ll be roped up, on crampons and navigating crevices. And that’s just on day two. There are so many options out there, and there’s bound to be one that’s just right for you. I’ve friends that love the 4,000m mountains. Those that will go to 7,000m but prefer to hike in as is the case for Aconcagua. Those that like the harder technical 3,000m peaks in New Zealand and those that don’t care so long as they’re out there having fun. Whatever climber you end up being, be a good one and accept that no matter how high or far you go, the joy is in the journey.

Scott on the Western Cwm

Onwards and upwards!

Trevor