This post tells you how to get around the 3 Holy Mountains of Yamagata in Japan. In the summer months from June through early September, it is a great season for travellers, day-trekkers and hikers to visit the Dewa Sanzan. The most popular one to visit is Haguro-san, the first shrine. The grounds are large, and it has one of the country’s oldest five-storey pagodas nestled in a cedar forest. For hikers and alpine flower enthusiasts, Gassan is a good day-hike. Yudono-san is seen as the holiest of the three shrines, but is also the most inaccessible.

Below you will find information on the bus routes for Haguro-san, Gassan, and Yudono-san, local maps, a lodging directory, and useful vocabulary.

You can also read my diary entries that include photos and route descriptions:

Getting In and Out:

Transportation to and from the Dewa Sanzan is quite straight-forward if you know what you are looking for. The route is also quite scenic.

The closest JR train station is about 4-5 hours from Tokyo Station on the Shinkansen. You will transfer at Niigata Station, and try to get an express train up to Tsuruoka, as they have wide-view windows for a view of the ocean. Get off the JR Train at Tsuruoka Station. From Tsuruoka Station, you will need to take bus line to Haguro-san, then Gassan. There is a separate bus line to Yudono-san. Your other option is a taxi, which will be expensive. Note the last bus times leaving each mountain, as they come only a few times a day.

Getting Around / Bus Times:

Buses in Japan are punctual, so make sure you arrive at a bus stop a little early. Buses will rarely leave early, so as long as you arrive at the specified time, you will catch it.

Local bus drivers speak little English. However, the bus to Haguro-san usually has a map of the area provided for free. The word for ‘map’ is chizu.

Getting to Haguro-san:

Take the bus to Haguro Town from Bus Stop #2 in front of Tsuruoka Station.

The stop for the bus in front of the JR Tsuruoka Station is: 鶴岡駅前②のりば

Key stops to note are:

Haguro Aramachi (羽黒荒町)- Where the ryokans / inns are

Zuishinmon (随神門) – Entrance to the 30-60 minute hike to the top

Haguro Peak (羽黒山頂) – Stops in a car park that’s about 10 minutes walk from the main entrance of Haguro Shrine

Please check this link for updated information: Bus Timetable from Tsuruoka Station (鶴岡駅前②のりば) to Haguro (羽黒荒町)

There are few buses between the mountains. Make sure you’ve written this information down before you head out. Also copy the Japanese names for key bus stops so you can show drivers / recognize them in online searches.

Here is my diary entry for my walk to Haguro-san.

Getting to Gassan (via Haguro-san):

Buses going to Gassan pass through Haguro-san. There are only 4 buses going to and 4 buses returning from Gassan every day.

These buses only run regularly July and August. They also run on specified days in September.

From Haguro-san to Gassan

*July, August, Select September dates From Gassan to JR Tsuruoka Station

*July, August, Select September dates 7:05

8:05

11:50

14:05 8:30

9:30

13:10

16:00

Please check the link for the bus schedule for Gassan (Japanese)

Here is my diary entry for my walk to Gassan.

Buses to Yudono-san (湯殿山):

From JR Tsuruoka Station Bus Stop #2

* From Jun 1 – Nov 1

From Yudono-san to JR Tsuruoka Station

* From Jun 1 – Nov 1 9:17

11:37

15:07

17:07 11:00

13:30

16:45

Please check for updates here: Bus schedule for Yudono-san (Japanese)

Here is my diary entry for my walk to Yudono-san.

Lodgings

Below is a list of ryokans at the base of Haguro-san. Majority of the town is ryokans. Most of them speak only Japanese, and a phone reservation prior is recommended. If you plan to walk in, then you should arrive before noon, as they will need time to prepare your dinner if you are staying the same day. You can also try using the Rakuten Travel (English) site to book online.

Useful Vocabulary (especially for map reading)

羽黒山 Haguro-san / Mount Haguro

月山 Gassan / Mount Ga / Moon Mountain

湯殿山 Yudono-san / Yudono Mountain

山頂 Peak

神社 Jinja Shrine

宿坊 Shukubo

旅館 Ryokan

民宿 Minshuku

案内 – Information

至 – towards

バス – bus

バス停 – Bus Stop

駅 – Station / Train station

If you have a pocket wi-fi or SIM, you can check out my list of apps for local travel. Please note that Gassan and Yudono-san may not have good reception.

And that’s it!

If you want to see what the route is like, please check out my Dewa Sanzan Diary Forward!

You won’t regret going lesser-known site that combines historical significance with stunning natural scenery. Wishing you a great adventure!