Two key growers in the cider apple market are weighing in for Good Fruit Grower on commonly used cider apple varieties in the U.S., including bittersweet and bittersharp varieties, heirloom apples from the U.S. and Europe, and modern scab-resistant apples capable of selling well in both dessert and cider markets.

Steve Wood has grown, grafted or fermented more than 200 cider apple varieties since 1985.

The co-owner of Poverty Lane Orchard and Farnum Hill Ciders of Lebanon, New Hampshire, Wood sells 15,000 gallons of hard cider and 30,000 to 40,000 gallons of sweet cider annually.

Craig Campbell, founder and owner of Tieton Cider Works, and his wife Sharon have a 55-acre ranch in Washington’s Yakima Valley, where they grow cider and heirloom varieties in organic orchards.

They grow more than 40 varieties of cider apples and pears for perry and claim to have the largest such acreage in Washington.

Wood and Campbell relate their experienced observations on the characteristics and performance of some of these apple varieties, listed alphabetically:

Ashmead’s Kernel

The tree is “difficult,” Wood says. “You think you have it settled and it throws a huge lateral.” Its buds are prone to winter injury. As a dessert apple, it is very acidic. It produces a flowery cider with a lot of acid and a lot of sugar.

Campbell calls it a great dual-purpose apple that is grower friendly and a steady producer. Harvested in mid-October, Campbell grows most of this variety on a V-trellis. It can be used for a single variety cider and is his wife, Sharon’s, favorite pie apple.

Calville Blanc d’Hiver

The tree is vigorous; it wants to grow like a vase, Wood says. It has thick wood; its strong laterals are sweeping and upright and it is spurry when it matures. The apple is excellent for cooking and has very strong lobes. For cider, it’s a very good sharp that adds very little character to cider beyond acid.

Chisel Jersey

Wood says Chisel Jersey has flat laterals and weak leaders, and that it’s all over if the laterals choke out the leader. The fruit has harsh tannins that soften in fermentation and is very like Dabinett, except for its more aggressive tannins.

Cox Orange Pippin

A fruity apple that adds acid, Wood says.

Dabinett

Campbell has had winter injury problems with this variety, which has low vigor, but he likes the juice quality when blended with a bittersharp.

The variety flowers late and harvests late for Wood, with strong, direct and structured tannins. Somewhat biennial, the trees are fairly easy to thin. The apple is small. The tree is not vigorous, but grows well if allowed.

Wood also says the variety requires attentive pruning, because it loses its leader easily to competition. The laterals are flat. It is moderately susceptible to fire blight.

Egremont Russet

Wood calls this an “indifferent” variety for dessert and cider purposes.

Ellis Bitter

Ellis Bitter is a good early to mid-season apple that Wood says stores a little better than some believe. It gets very ripe and does not fall apart. The fruit is juicy and has mid-range, fairly aggressive and harsh tannins. It’s one of the most vigorous varieties he’s ever seen. It’s not precocious but it is productive.

Gold Rush

Wood says Gold Rush is a good, neutral source of acidity.

Golden Russet

Wood calls this variety a fruit bomb with high sugar and moderate acidity. It presents many different fruits in fermentation and is great eating fresh. The tree is vigorous with lots of blind wood. It is very hard to get it to fruit efficiently.

Campbell says the dual-purpose apple is a tip bearer and good producer that they harvest in early October.