I went on vacation to Portugal in February of 2018 and my goal was to explore some interesting regions besides the Douro Valley. I had heard rumors about a place called Colares, but I actually knew very little about it. One of the first things I did in Lisbon was visit the famous wine merchant, Garrafeira Nacional to ask about the region. Expecting to find a few random bottles, I was treated to a whole shelf of vintage offerings going back to the 1930's! I basically lost my mind right there because it’s difficult enough to find a bottle here with 5 years of age, let alone dry reds from before World War II!

The woman helping me was very knowledgeable and explained the region in great detail. In the early 20th century, Colares was one of the most important wine areas in all of Portugal. Unlike the Douro Valley, Colares was planted to sandy soil that granted the vines immunity to Phylloxera — a pest that nearly decimated the entire European wine industry. Speaking of the soil, it’s one of the more unique wine regions in the world because the vines grow across the sand, without trellising or training. They’ve been said to resemble “green serpents snaking along the sand”.

She also explained that the entire region has almost disappeared due to it’s popularity as a seaside vacation area. Almost all of the vineyards have been replaced by urban expansion and vacation property. It’s one of the smallest and rarest in the world. Only 50 acres of vineyards survive. Surely, I had to visit… I drove about 40 minutes outside of Lisbon to visit Adega Regional de Colares, the most historic and still functioning winery in the region. The foggy, green area of Colares and surrounding area Sintra is very much a beautiful, sleepy beach town. It’s easy to see it’s appeal as a popular vacation destination.

Forgotten by Time & “Saudade”

Embracing Portugal’s Culture of Sadness

When I arrived at the winery, I was greeted by a very large and very old wooden building full of giant wooden vats and a small tasting area. There was a palpable sense of loss standing in this winery. Most of these giant wooden barrels remain empty and harken back to the time when Colares was a more productive region. At one point, Colares was vital to the Portuguese wine industry, and now, so few vines exist that they are unable to fill more than one or two of these barrels.

There’s something uniquely Portugese about this sense of melancholy. Indeed, many publications have written about this phenomenon. They even have their own word for the disposition called “Saudade”. It’s a difficult word to translate, but it essentially means a sort of “Joyful Sadness”. It’s a profound state of longing for the past, but also a motivating embrace of something you once loved.

It’s a way of life for the Portuguese. From the mournful Fado music, to this forgotten and disappearing wine region, it’s a feeling that pervades all aspects of their culture. Saudade is a unique aspect of what it means to be Portuguese, and sensing this so clearly at the winery was truly fascinating.

The fact that the wine is so rare only heightened the magic of tasting the wines. Yes, it was a melancholic experience but it was special none the less. Recently, new vines have been planted in Colares and there is a push to declare it as a Unesco World Heritage site which will hopefully preserve what is left of this once thriving region.

About Colares: The Rarest Wine Region in the World

They grow two grapes in Colares: a red called Ramisco and a white called Malvasia. The reds are very unique in that they have insane levels of tannins and acidity. They also achieve ripeness at very low levels of alcohol with most sitting around 10–12%. Knowledgeable industry people who have tasted these Ramiscos have compared them to Barolo in that they need at least 10 years to shed the tannin. I was able to taste examples going back to the 1950’s and I was blown away with how fresh, vibrant and aromatic they remained well into their age. The current US release from Adega Regional de Colares is a 2009 and its like very young Nebbiolo — not a decade old Portuguese wine.

From a geographical and terroir perspective, Colares continues to be compelling. It’s the Western-most wine region in continental Europe and planted in sandy soil right near the beach. The wind off the Atlantic ocean can be brutal, but it also keeps the grapes cool, preserving acidity. The vines grow across the ground; and when they produce fruit, the branches are propped up by sticks to facilitate air circulation and ripening. Everything is painstakingly hand harvested, mostly by older folks who still live in the region. The vines are some of the oldest in all of Europe and they are never treated with any synthetic sprays or chemicals. Researching later, I heard stories about how growers spread human hair around the vineyard to ward off hungry birds and rabbits. It’s the antithesis of industrial grape growing.

Sadly, the reds from Colares have proved near-impossible to find here in the states. Luckily, the white wines are equally intriguing and (sort of) available… Out of the 3200 bottles made, I was able to get 12 of them sent to the wine shop that I buy for. The whites are made of a unique indigenous version of Malvasia which is difficult to describe. It’s salty, nutty and textured with striking minerality. It sort of reminds me of sherry, except not really because it’s not oxidized. Rather, it’s floral and aromatic in a way that’s uncommon for a wine with immense texture.

There’s no point in me trying to tell you what it tastes like because there isn’t anything even remotely like it in the world. I opened a bottle for customers to taste and most people didn’t know what to think of it. For one thing, it comes in weird 500ml bottles, so people assumed it was a dessert wine. The truth is that they make so little of the wine that they have to put it in these small bottles or there wouldn’t be enough to go around (there already isn’t).Until now! Finally, after a year I was able to score a few cases of the current release. This is not an inexpensive wine, but I truly believe it is worth the money. Very few people in the United States have tasted these wines and they remain completely undiscovered and underrated.

I’ve even asked Master Sommeliers and Masters of Wine about Colares, and have yet to meet any that have tasted these wines. That’s how rare these are. This is what excites me the most about wines like Colares. Despite having all of the qualities that wine hipsters and sommeliers look for, it is still not known. It’s proof that there are undiscovered gems out there, even for jaded industry people like myself.

I’m doing my best currently to find reds that can legally be sold through retail in Colorado (the state I live). I think NY probably has some of them floating around through Skurnik but my only option is Jose Pastor, who is currently out of stock. However, I brought back a pretty wide selection of Colares reds from Garrafeira Nacional and I plan on posting tasting notes on all of them as they are opened.

Final Word

Again, these wines are very special to me and I hope you find my argument compelling to sample them. I understand that these are not inexpensive, but I feel like the quality and singularity of Colares more than covers the cost. If you are at all a fan of Barolo or Burgundy, you should consider tasting this wine. If you do, you’ll be one of the very few people in the United States to do so.

Tasting Notes

Adega Regional de Colares

2009 Arenae Ramisco

The current release is virtually a decade old, though you would never know it from tasting the wine. We’re talking about a grape that has proven to age 50+ years effortlessly. However, having that decade in the bottle is really important because it’s just enough time for the tannins to start to peal away, revealing the gorgeous and beautiful fruit underneath.

Tasting this wine is truly a baffling experience… The body and aromatics are akin to fine Burgundy, with acidity and tannin closer to classic Barolo, and then further, the fruit character is reminiscent of aged Bordeaux. If Colares was not so endangered and small, I think Ramisco would be considered as one of the finest and most noble grape varieties. There’s no other wine which possesses such amazing tannin and acidity at low alcohols.

This vintage is beautifully balanced. There’s a wonderful mix of fresh red fruit notes and dried, herbal spice. Freshly picked Raspberry, rose petal, and redcurrant are but some of the qualities on display. The structure is the best part of the wine with the tannin and acid working together in a way that is often not seen except in the very best aged Burgundys or Barolos.

Adega Regional de Colares

2015 Chao Rijo Tinto

As I’ve mentioned over and over, Colares is extremely small. There’s really not enough vines to make any substantial amount of wine. To supplement their production, the winery sources some grapes from Lisboa, the area outside of Colares to make this more affordable wine. It may not be as special as their Ramisco or Malvasia, but it’s delicious and has already become a staff and customer favorite.

It’s made from a grape called Castelão and a touch of Tinta Roriz (aka, Tempranillo) from fairly old vines. I love the fact that they ferment part of the grapes “whole cluster” — meaning they don’t remove the stems — which gives the wine a spicy, peppery quality reminiscent of Northern Rhone Syrah. There’s a bit more density here, though the wine is squarely medium bodied. It’s a classic example of authentic, well made Old World style wine. Terrific value.

Adega Regional De Colares

2015 Arenæ Colares Malvasia

“ Salty and mineral with a note of tart pineapple. Very good body. The tropical quality is really intense but balanced by the salinity in a really interesting way. Very viscous but not sweet.” —Tasted Feb 17th, 2018

Adega Regional De Colares

2014 Arenæ Colares Malvasia

“ 2014 is the current vintage in the US market. It’s very similar to the 2015 I tasted in Portugal but dialed back in terms of fruit. Instead, it has a very pine, herbal quality that also matches the salinity. Again, very viscous and textured in a way that is uncanny.” —Tasted March 21st, 2018

Viuva José Gomes Da Silva & Filhos

2008 Collares Ramisco

“I had to open one last bottle of Colares before I left Portugal. These are very rare wines made of the ramisco grape, grown on the sandy soil without trellising. Dried cherry fruit on the nose with a hint of cinnamon. At a decade old, you would never guess. The level of tannin and acidity is at a level here that makes Barolo look like baby stuff.” — Tasted Feb 23rd, 2018

Adega Regional De Colares

2001 Arenæ Colares Ramisco

“Insanity. There’s not a single indication that the wine is seventeen years old and instead has aromatics reminiscent of young burgundy. The body is interesting because it’s only 12% alcohol but there’s some serious tannin here that adds a sense of density. The fruit character is unique — I’m getting more dark berry fruits accented by an herbal lift. It’s compared to nebbiolo but it’s unique.” — Tasted Feb 17th, 2018

This is the current vintage being exported to the USA. I tasted it in Portugal at a trade show.

Adega Regional De Colares

2008 Arenæ Colares Ramisco

“This is the first red Colares that I’ve tasted. It was being offered as part of a portfolio for importing at SISAB which I attended. The tannins are intense but have an appealing texture. Very fresh, herbal cherry fruit notes. Very interesting. Crazy, it’s 10 years old.” — Tasted Feb 17th, 2018

Antonio Bernardino Paulo da Silva

1997 Chitas Reserva Tinto Colares Ramisco

“Bright cherry fruit with a small medicinal vibe. Amazing tannin that keeps the palate firmed up and tense. Doesn’t show age” — Tasted Feb 19th, 2018

Antonio Bernardino Paulo da Silva

1955 Chitas Reserva Tinto Colares Ramisco

“I’ve never had red a wine this old. It was made the same year James Dean died in car accident. The aromatics are not in any way showing oxidation or age. The tannins are unforgiving which is pretty insane because it seems like they should be gone by now… Aromatically it seems integrated but not old. There’s no sense of mushroomy, soy, umami flavor that I normally see on wine past it’s prime. This might not be done aging which is mind boggling.” — Tasted Feb 22nd, 2018