Erik Ramirez isn’t playing with the usual set of flavors at his new restaurant, Llama San. He isn’t putting them together in the usual ways, either. The starting point of his menu is Nikkei cuisine, the hybrid style forged by Japanese cooks living in Peru, but Mr. Ramirez hasn’t let himself get tied down by it. Certain Llama San dishes have clear Nikkei roots, but have sprouted into something new. Others seem to come from an imaginary Peruvian-Japanese world that Mr. Ramirez dreamed up.

There can’t be many cevicherias in Lima where the tart and spicy marinade for raw scallops and soft hunks of avocado is made from cherimoya purée. Ripe cherimoya, also known as custard apple, has the miraculous ability to taste like bananas, pears, pineapples and about six other, equally delicious fruits at the same time.

And you could probably walk the entire Peruvian coastline without finding a hamachi tiradito whose leche de tigre — the sauce that is essential in tiraditos as well as ceviches — is a rich, spicy coconut milk soured with a squeeze of lime. If you added lemongrass and lime leaf at this point you’d have the beginnings of a number of Thai soups, but that’s not where this is going. Llama San scatters a few puffs of matcha foam over the plate, between curls of fresh coconut. If you didn’t already know that green tea, chiles, coconut and raw fish are quietly thrilling together, you do now.