• This piece was originally published in July 2018

Sipping a glass of the new no-alcohol Seedlip Grove with soda, my thoughts wander. As orange oils tickle my nostrils, and the bite of ginger and sancho peppercorns botanicals kick in, I’m imagining encountering it on a sunny terrace, or a shiny tray at a smart party. Wait! Such anticipation used only to happen with the hard stuff (and tea). My perspective has shifted.

I’m not the only one. When Adnams of Southwold launched its Ghost Ship Alcohol Free – a “craft” pale ale at 0.5% abv – in June it could barely keep up with the clamour of demand, with shops selling out almost as soon as a (big) delivery arrived. “Wow, such a massive success,” says Adnams’ Dan Kirby. The episode prompted me to give an update on no/low (that’s the widespread shorthand for “no and low alcohol”) drinks.

The no/low trend has been the most kinetic story in drink over the last couple of years, drawing investment from corporations manufacturing fast-moving consumer goods (FMCGs), breweries like Adnams, and the sommelier teams of Michelin-starred restaurants, alike.

It continues to gain traction as part of a wider cultural refocus on well-being. “Over a quarter of shoppers say they are looking to cut down their alcohol consumption, and most are doing this by drinking less, but many are turning to lower-alcohol products,” says Gemma Cooper, Nielsen Commercial Business Partner.