Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

By Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

"Hole-in-the-wall'' and "divey'' may scare most people, but many of my best food experiences have come in the grungiest of places.

Not dirty-grungy, but low-rent, charmingly seedy kind of grungy. Places where the wallpaper may be peeling, the seats duct-taped, menu items written on paper plates, and there's little or no social media presence. I don't know about you, but that feels like home. (Not that my chairs at home are duct-taped or anything.)

Here is a list of New Jersey's 50 best hole-in-the-wall restaurants. The food's good, and often quite cheap, in all of them, but the atmosphere and look are what draw you back time and again. A "hole-in-the-wall'' by definition cannot be spacious or stylish. Diners are almost never holes-in-the-wall; they're not small enough. Delis, though, can be, and several are on this list. What's your favorite hole-in-the-wall spot? Let us know in the comments section.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

El Riconcito, Elizabeth

El Riconcito is a colorful, cramped hole-in-the-wall with a handful of seats at the counter and an endless flow of foot traffic. The empanadas are uber-crispy; try the chicken or beef. You can't go wrong at a place that proclaims itself "El Palacio de las Empanadas.''

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Toby's Cup, Lopatcong

There is no funkier hot dog joint in New Jersey than Toby's Cup, which looks like a carnival attraction from the outside and is about the size of a broom closet inside. And yes, it's in Lopatcong, not Phillipsburg (don't believe everything you read on the internet). Owner Jim Nicknick said there was never anyone called Toby behind the name. A hot dog for $1.20? A chili dog for $1.80? You can't beat the prices at Toby's Cup. No seating inside, but benches outside.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Chicken Coop, Columbus

Flea market or farmers market food is totally underappreciated; don't laugh. The Columbus Farmers Market, one of the three biggest in the state, features two top-flight pizzerias — Kate & Al's and Pete's — and the Chicken Coop. Grab a ticket and wait for your number to be called. The chicken is supremely crispy/crunchy.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Amazing Taste, North Plainfield

Joshua Muhammed, owner of Amazing Taste, started with a food truck in Plainfield; he bought it for $15,000 on Craigslist. The truck is parked outside the storefront, on Route 22 East in North Plainfield. The jerk chicken platter features plenty of tender, spicy meat, plus two sides and cornbread, all for $10.

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Alex Remnick | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Boulevard Clams, Surf City

On mild-mannered Long Beach Island, Boulevard Clams comes as a surprise, a pleasantly divey seafood restaurant with about a dozen tables and the words "Clam Up'' written across a countertop. Order the hot and dirty crabs — jumbo spiced Maryland crabs, messy and marvelous.

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Alex Remnick | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Caffe Espresso Italia, Newark

Caffe Espresso Italia is an unassuming deli/luncheonette with no website or official Facebook page, but Newark cops and firefighters, FBI, DEA, and port workers know it well. The espresso's good, but you come here for the ample, Italian-grandma-worthy sandwiches and entrees (the latter about $8). Hungry? The immense sausage sandwich, loaded with meat, peppers and onions, may be the state's biggest.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Chicken Galore, Woodbridge

Fried chicken joints don't get any more bare-bones (sorry) than Chicken Galore ("If There's a Better Piece of Chicken, the Rooster Got It!"), located next to the former Cookie Jar in downtown Woodbridge. As you can see by the photo, it's charmingly divey. Opened in 1967, Chicken Galore offers the bird several ways — fried, roasted, BBQ, regular wings, buffalo wings, chicken tenders, chicken nuggets. The chicken's nice and juicy.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Donkey's Place, Camden

Dive bar, cheesesteak heaven, sports memorabilia museum: Donkey's Place is a Jersey original; ignore the bullet hole in the window. Anthony Bourdain proclaimed Donkey's Place the best Philly cheesesteak in 2015, but Donkey's was on the cheesesteak radar well before that. Leon Lucas, a former Olympic boxer, bought the business in 1947; fans likened his punch to a mule's or donkey's, thus the name. Order at the register or sit down and smell the steaks sizzling and popping on the grill. The meat is not chopped but served in big hunky slabs. And the bread? Not your usual sub roll but a poppy seed roll. Top it with a thick pile of onions, and you have a cheesesteak bully, one that dares you to call it out.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Chefski's, Wallington

That Chefski's, a Polish eatery, is in Wallington comes as no surprise; the population of the Bergen County town, after all, is 50 percent Polish. The small, deli-like eatery, next door to a 7-Eleven, is all about Polish home cooking; there are no burgers, hot dogs, salads or even sandwiches on the menu. But you can get borsch, dill soup, potato pancakes, sauerkraut and mushrooms, breaded pork chops, goulash, beef stroganoff and other Eastern European favorites. There's a $7.50 daily lunch special, which includes entree, mashed potato and soup. My favorite dish: the roast pork, tender meat slathered in hearty gravy. Call it comfort food heaven, Polish style.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Taqueria El Mariachi, Trenton

Appearances can be deceiving. Taqueria El Mariachi is squeezed into an unremarkable if not dreary stretch of South Olden Avenue in Trenton, but inside it's homey and friendly, with the World Cup on TV, good food and first-rate salsas. Three hefty, tasty al pastor tacos are $7, and there are five kinds of pupusas (thick corn tortillas stuffed with meat, cheese and other fillings). Recommended: the pork rind pupusas. Yum.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Latin American Restaurant, Camden

There was seemingly enough chicken on the grill to feed Camden and several neighboring towns when I stopped at the spare, no-frills Latin American Restaurant. "Pollo on grill'' proclaims the menu, so you know what they're good at. You can also get breakfast, empanadas, tacos, seafood and more. Head straight to the Combo Platters part of the menu; you'll get a hefty portion of meat (grilled chicken, chicken stew, roast pork, fried beef, BBQ ribs) with choice of side for $7-$8. The highly recommended pernil asada is shown in the photo.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Benanti's Deli, Bayonne

First thing you do at Benanti's is select your bread — rolls of all shapes and sizes — from the cardboard boxes just inside the door. Then take it to Charlie Benanti (photo) or one of his staff and let them know what you want on it. Menu? What, are you kidding? Tables and chairs? They're outside, on the sidewalk.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Torres Cafe, Perth Amboy

Torres Cafe is a homey, spare little place, down the street from the Middlesex County Vo-Tech. They have good, cheap empanadas: four for $5. The ham and cheese empanada is a tasty alternative to the usual beef and chicken.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Seagraves Steak & Submarine Shop, Elsinboro

Elsinboro, Salem County, is one of the state's least-known towns; it's minutes from the Delaware Memorial Bridge. Don't go looking for store signs at Seagraves; there aren't any. Pull up in front of the white-walled building; inside you'll find owners Ron and Cheryl Seagraves. They sure do love their pickles here (see photo).

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Cosmo's Salumeria, Hackensack

A scattering of pastas, cookies and canned goods on the shelves, a limited menu, and a down-home atmosphere no money could ever buy or duplicate: that's Cosmo's Salumeria, run by Cosmo and Lorenza DePinto (in photo), open since 1996. You've got to try Lorenza's meatballs, and the eggplant (Fridays only), or the porchetta sub (a special). The menu is in sandwich code — the #1 is ham salami sopp capp mozz sharp prov sweet peppers. If you can't figure out what "sopp'' and "capp" are, you're in the wrong place.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Nip-N-Tuck Bar & Grill, Long Branch

How seriously does Nip-N-Tuck, a cozy neighborhood bar, take its grilled cheese? There's a new one every week. Try the Bleu Jack, with blue cheese, tomato and bacon on rye, cooked on a skillet atop the grill. The result? Fabulous. Good luck finding any mention of grilled cheese on their Facebook page; it's almost like they want to keep it a secret.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Pancho's Mexican Taqueria, Atlantic City

Pancho's, next to legendary White House Subs, is one of those stark, spare eateries that often outshine fancier, more heralded spots. The tacos al pastor, on homemade tortillas, may be the best I've had anywhere in New Jersey. Simply made, and simply great.

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Saed Hindash I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Gyp's Tavern, Sandyston

Gyp's is a dive bar and hunter's hangout; during their deer-hunting contests, you can drop off your deer out back and get it weighed. There are hundreds of police, fire and service badges and insignia on the walls and ceilings. Babe Ruth once drank, and hunted, here. (There are photos to prove it.) "Gyp'' was the nickname of previous owner Bill Miller. The wings are pretty good, and when it gets warm out you'll want to grab one of the chairs outside on the back lawn to drink in the gorgeous lakefront setting.

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Holiday Snack Bar, Beach Haven

From the outside, the venerable Holiday Snack Bar looks more like a beach bungalow than cake shop or luncheonette, with several bikes lashed in unlikely fashion to the roof. Inside is an old-time funky curved counter, chalk menu board and chairs that look like they came from your great-grandma's attic. It's been open since 1948 and is known for its cakes. The best-known are the Lady Lord cake, with its yellow and chocolate cake blend, and the chocolate white cake, although my favorite is the angel food cake. Pies include lemon meringue, pecan, apple crisp and Key lime.

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Guilli's Authentic Mexican Cuisine Pizza, Willingboro

"True hole in the walls with great food'' is how @queenmotherblog described Guilli's and two other South Jersey spots on Twitter. Guilli's is a homey little hangout with menu board above the counter, specials written in Magic Marker on a board and a full lineup of Jarritos soda (mmm, grapefruit). Tacos are $2.75, and there are nearly two dozen pizzas on the menu.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

La Pola, West New York

La Pola is an old-school haunt on Palisade Avenue with its diner-like counter and stools. The owner is Belarmino Rico, who opened La Pola in 1978. The restaurant is named after the town in northern Spain where he's from. The nation's best Cuban sandwich is here, says Food Network personality Carl Ruiz, a Jersey chef who says he has eaten 500 or so Cuban sandwiches in Tampa, Miami and elsewhere. My Twitter photo of the sandwich provoked a heated debate, with many people doubting the best Cuban sandwich could ever come from New Jersey. Even the official Twitter account for the city of Tampa chimed in.

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Shang Hai Dumpling, Edison

Tile floors, spare but comfortable tables and chairs, brick walls, neon-lit exterior, drinks written in Chinese and English — Shang Hai Dumpling isn't fancy, and it's tiny, and your order may take a while, but the food is fine and filling. Recommended: the crab meat and pork steam dumplings, and the Lion's Head Soup.

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San Pedro Tierra Mexican, Bellmawr

San Pedro Tierra Mexican, squeezed into a strip mall, is a funky little taco joint; what it lacks in atmosphere it more than makes up in two things: cheap and good. Tacos are $2.50, quesadillas from $3-$3.50, tortas $6.50-$7, and the salsas are maybe the most distinctive at any taqueria in New Jersey. The salsa rojo and salsa verde are mildly spicy and majorly addictive.

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Peter Genovese

Rutt's Hut, Clifton

Rutt's Hut is the quintessential hot dog hole-in-the-wall: no chairs, just tables and windowsill perches, which only add to the charm. The guys behind the counter are charmingly gruff, and the tile-floored dining room out back seems frozen in the '40s. Abe Rutt opened the brick-walled roadhouse in 1928; bacon and eggs back then cost 80 cents. Rutt's signature dog is the Ripper — the deep frying causes the hot dog to crack and split, or rip. A Weller is a well-done Ripper, and a Cremator is a burnt Ripper. You really don't want to go there unless you crave what cook Bill Chrisafinis calls "petrified'' hot dogs.

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Breakfast at a Rahway diner on this snowy day Posted by I Love Rahway on Thursday, February 9, 2017

Peter Genovese

Ming's Luncheonette, Rahway

"Quirky decor (Marilyn Monroe meets Buddha), tasty Jersey food, caught-in-time prices, friendly atmosphere but best of all is ... Ming,'' an admirer of Ming's Luncheonette said on Twitter. "When you sit down. . . Ming flings a pad and pen in front of you and barks, 'Write your order!' And he says you get a discount if you can write it in Chinese. I tried to fake it - but no dice.'' Sandwiches are sizeable — you won't go away hungry here.

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Peter Genovese

Piccolo's Famous Cheesesteaks, Hoboken

Check out the photo; if Piccolo's doesn't qualify for hole-in-the-wall, nothing does. On Facebook, a regular suggested that owner "Patty Boy'' Spaccavento consider a commercial so he could get his menu "out there.'' Patty's response: "And have a whole new crop of maniacs and nincompoops walk through my door?'' Your cheesesteak comes with a side order of humor and attitude at this old-school shop, open since 1955.

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Good Morning, everyone! If you're venturing outside today, you should at least make it worth your while! Come on into Edie's and treat yourself to one of our many homemade specialties. See you soon!! Posted by Edie's Luncheonette (Little Silver, NJ) on Monday, April 20, 2015

Peter Genovese

Edie's Luncheonette, Little Silver

Edie's, located in a tidy narrow home, is one of those lovable luncheonettes that should be in every town. There are stools at the diner-like counter, a scattering of tables and a mere 25 omelets on the menu board. The building dates to 1849; it once housed a general store and post office. Edie's, which opened in 1973, is a Jersey Shore treasure.

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Delran Coffee Shop, Delran

The Delran Coffee Shop is so darn cute, with its white facade, green-and-white awning and cozy booths. Sit at the counter for a front-row seat to your food being cooked. "It's such a small place that if you blink you'll miss it as you drive by,'' a regular said on Facebook.

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Peck Peck, Teaneck

Peck Peck is a charming little hole-in-the-wall, with a handful of tables, compact menu and an older couple at the helm. Korean fried chicken takes a bit longer to prepare, but your patience will be rewarded. Peck Peck is my favorite Korean fried chicken joint, with Mama Chicken in Palisades Park a close second. I picked Peck Peck as my favorite restaurant of 2013.

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Hoagie Haven, Princeton

Hoagie Haven is the Princeton University equivalent of the late great Rutgers grease trucks; your Princeton education is not complete without a stop at this legendary late-night hangout, open since 1974. The decor is spare, it's cash only, there are just four stools, which is why you'll often see customers chow down outside, on a bench. Best-selling sandwich: the Body Bag, a cheesesteak with hash browns, egg, ketchup and hot sauce. It's a great way to, uh, go out.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Rocco's Steaks, Camden

Call Camden the center of the N.J. Cheesesteak Universe. Donkey's Place may get all the publicity, but Rocco's Steaks is an old-school delight — screen door, several stools, pleasantly grungy. I asked the old lady behind the counter if there was a restroom, and she gave me a look that would have instantly melted the snow on your sidewalk. Rocco's cheesesteaks are monstrously meaty. Ignore the low-rent exterior, step inside, and chow down. Just don't ask if there's a restroom.

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Red White & Que Smokehouse, Kearny

Red White & Que was my best BBQ newcomer of 2016, a pint-sized place stashed on a largely residential street. At RWQ, takeout meats are securely wrapped in butcher paper, and the ribs deftly manage the high-wire act of tender, smoky and juicy. One must-try: the uber-thick, joltingly juicy brisket sandwich; it's one of my favorite sandwiches of any kind in the past few years. They host an annual Buy a Vet a Meal; those who served in the military get free food. The owner's a former Marine.

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Frank Conlon I The Star-Ledger

Oaxaqueno #2, New Brunswick

Good, cheap, small and often crowded, Oaxaqueno #2 really lives up to the "authentic Mexican'' tag. You can get huevos, tacos, burritos, soup, seafood, plus dishes you surely won't find at Mexican chain restaurants. Fried rabbit, anyone? The shakes are recommended, and for something different, order the vampiros, a shake made with oranges, beets and carrots. It's bloody good. The photo shows soup with beef stomach.

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Guernsey Crest Ice Cream Co., Paterson

Guernsey Crest looks disreputable from the outside: graffiti-splattered exterior, cracked sidewalk, and inside it looks more like a check-cashing service than ice cream stand. But their ice cream, and especially their milkshakes, are really good. It's a local hangout; you don't stumble on the Crest by accident. "Taste Tells'' is the motto.

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Internacional Mexican Grocery, Red Bank

"Best street tacos in New Jersey'' is how one patron tweeted about Internacional Mexican Grocery. "This place is as real as it gets,'' another added on Yelp. "There is very limited seating so you may have to stand and wait for your food.'' Sure sounds like a hole-in-the-wall. This one has tile floors and a wraparound counter. The tacos are loaded, and inexpensive.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Freddy Restaurant, Camden

Buffet line to the left, counter in the middle, tables to the right. Freddy Restaurant isn't much to look at, but the lunchtime crowd of locals attests to its down-home popularity. The pernil (roast pork) sandwich will happily fill you up for just five bucks, and the Cubano (photo), for a dollar more, is a standout — excellent toasted bread, and juicy ham and pork inside. I sampled it in my car and ate the rest for dinner when I got home.

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Pizzaland, North Arlington

Pizzaland appeared in the opening credits of "The Sopranos," and the sightseers and tour buses started rolling in. From the beginning, the pizzeria sounded worthy of its own sitcom. Frank DiPiazza, the original owner, won the building in a card game, opening Pizzaland in April 1965. DiPiazza, who mumbled more than he spoke but was a kind-hearted man, looked like a character right out of Central Pizzeria Casting. It's a true hole-in-the-wall, and one of the state's smallest pizzerias.

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Tim Farrell I The Star-Ledger

Harvey Cedars Shellfish Co. Clam Bar, Beach Haven

Yes, that's Harvey Cedars Shellfish Co. Clam Bar in Beach Haven, which is just one of several charming oddities about this seaside hangout. Cellphone talk is prohibited inside, and you wait out on the sidewalk for your party to be called. They'll happily put your wine or beer on ice. The clam bar is an atmospheric throwback to a time when restaurants were not all shiny and soulless.

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The Clam Bar (Smitty's), Somers Point

The Clam Bar (also known as Smitty's) is an old-time seafood shack with a great backdrop — boats bobbing in the marina, Ocean City in the shimmering distance. If it's busy inside, just order takeout and eat outside. My favorite thing here: the grouper burger.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Dickie Dee's, Newark

Open since 1958, Dickie Dee's, with its orange and powder-blue chairs, is busy, cramped, noisy — and priceless. It drives me crazy when people says the No. 1 reason you hit Dickie Dee's is the pizza. No, you silly clueless people, it's the Italian hot dogs, acknowledged as among the state's best. Yes, there was a guy named Dickie Dee; he and his wife, Toni Dee, were former owners. Just across the way is bread legend Calandra's.

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Este sería un mega pollo.con tajadas Lol. 🇭🇳🇭🇳😋 Posted by Rincón Catracho LLC on Sunday, March 3, 2019

Rincon Catracho, Atlantic City

Rincon Catracho is a small if not cramped Honduran eatery with down-home dishes. "Delicious Honduran foods that send me on a trip with every single bite ❤️ baleadas reminded me of the ones that my family made me back in Honduras, el pollo con tajadas was even better. savory sweet with a little kick of spice is what everyone needs in their life," gushed an admirer on Facebook. There's good eating in Atlantic City away from the casinos.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Boulevard Drinks, Jersey City

New Jersey is the center of the hot dog universe, and Boulevard Drinks, a short stroll from the Journal Square PATH station in Jersey City, may be its coolest hot dog hangout, with its uber-bright yellow counter (you don't want to be here with a hangover) and some of the state's best grilled hot dogs. The staff is no-nonsense, which somehow adds to the charm.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Crunchick'n, Ocean City

It's tiny, so you'll do takeout at Crunchik'n, on the boardwalk in Ocean City. The Korean stand ranked No. 4 in my epic boardwalk food mission, and it was mostly because of the cheesesteak (photo). It's no mainstream cheesesteak, not with bulgogi (beef), sauteed vegetables, provolone and cilantro. Don't forget to try the Korean fried chicken wings (10 for $10) while you're there.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Fiore's Deli, Hoboken

Leave the cash, take the roast beef sandwich. Fiore's Deli, which opened in 1913, wasn't a location in The Godfather, but should have been. Red-stenciled window, tin ceiling, fluorescent lighting; a display case filled with olives, roasted red peppers, mushrooms, and other specialties. There's no printed sandwich menu—- just tell whomever's behind the counter what you want, and be sure to ask about the specials. There's no website or official Facebook page — no surprise there. Their legendary roast beef and mozzarella sub is available Thursdays and Saturdays only. Fiore's is an essential Jersey food experience.

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Hot Dog Tommy's, Cape May

Hot Dog Tommy's really is a hole-in-the-wall. You order at the window of the vest-pocket stand, and take your hot dog elsewhere; there's no seating. Tommy was Tommy Snyder, who always served a side order of shtick with his hot dogs. His nonstop nutty chatter and patter was hilarious. Snyder sold the business in 2016; the new owners are Bruce and Deena Carlino.

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El Tex-Mex Burrito Cafe, Fords

Nestled next to a hardware store, the yellow-framed El Tex-Mex Burrito Cafe serves up "famous burritos" and other Mexican standards, plus breakfast dishes, in a spare fluorescent-lit space. The tacos are just $6.25 for three.

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M&P Biancamano, Hoboken

Style-conscious Hoboken has three holes-in-the-wall on this list. Fiore's may be top dog in town when it comes to delis, but M&P Biancamano's fresh mozzarella may be the best for miles around. There are just a handful of tables inside and out, and the subs are loaded.

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Bims Pizza, Millville

Pizzerias can be holes-in-the-wall, too. Bims, which opened in 1972, fits into a space only slightly larger than a shoebox. The pizza is perfectly fine; the charm of this place is its small-town, charmingly divey atmosphere.

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Alex Remnick | NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Steve's Burgers, Garfield

The curtain separates the kitchen from dining room and front counter at Steve's Burgers: I remember when this was Bob's Pit Stop and, before that, Linda's Fried Chicken. Steve Chrisomalis is a Johnson & Wales graduate who opened his roadside burger joint about 10 years ago. "Special sauce" is a burger cliche, but his is edgy, with mayo, peppers, relish, celery seed and both Frank's Red Hot and sriracha. Recommended: the Willy Burger, with Swiss cheese and mushrooms.

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Jefferson's Cafe, Montclair

Dining room in back, counter and stools in front, and don't go looking for a website or official Facebook page for Jefferson's Cafe; there are none. Soul food standards are on the menu, plus breakfast, burgers and grilled cheese. The last time I was there, I had a four-piece all-white-meat fried chicken. It was no-frills and unfussy, just like Jefferson's, and pretty close to perfect chicken.

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What's your favorite hole-in-the-wall restaurant?

This is one person's list of the best hole-in-the-wall eateries. What are yours? Who did we leave out? Let us know in the comments section.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

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