An inside-out version of Straight Bar Lacing , which distributes pressure evenly plus keeps the knots & ends to the side, away from either snagging undergrowth or from bicycle chains & cranks.

On shoes with an odd number of eyelet pairs (eg. 7 pairs = 14 eyelets), a workaround is needed so that the ends still meet. The “across and back” workaround (shown above) is probably the best compromise in terms of retaining the overall look plus allowing a regular knot.

Hiking / Biking Lacing only works neatly on shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs (eg. 8 pairs = 16 eyelets). This is because the shoelace must cross the shoe an even number of times so that the ends will meet and can be tied together.

In addition, tying the knot at either top-left or top-right then gives this lacing two different and distinct applications ( see below ).

The “inside-out” layout may look weird – but it gives this lacing several important benefits:

• Alternate running across on the inside and up on the outside until the ends emerge through the top and second-from-top eyelets on the same side.

• Both ends continue straight up on the outside, each skipping one eyelet and feeding in two eyelets higher up.

• Both ends run straight across on the inside and out through the adjacent eyelets.

• The right (yellow) end runs straight across on the inside, then straight up on the outside, skipping one eyelet and feeding in two eyelets higher up.

• The left (blue) end then continues straight up on the outside, skipping one eyelet and feeding in two eyelets higher up.

• The left (blue) end runs straight across on the inside, then straight back on the outside before tucking under the previous vertical shoelace segment (similar to the tucked segments of Ladder Lacing ).

• The right (yellow) end runs straight up on the outside, skipping one eyelet and feeding in two eyelets higher up.

• The left (blue) end runs straight up on the outside and in through the next higher eyelet.

• Begin straight across on the inside (grey section) and out through the bottom eyelets.

• Alternate running up on the outside and across on the inside until the ends emerge through the top and second-from-top eyelets on the same side.

• Both ends continue straight across on the inside and out through the adjacent eyelets.

• Both ends run straight up on the outside, each skipping one eyelet and feeding in two eyelets higher up.

• The left (blue) end runs straight up on the outside, then straight across on the inside.

• Begin straight across on the inside (grey section) and out through the bottom eyelets.

Lace one shoe as above and the other shoe in reverse, with both knots positioned towards the outside . This places the loops and loose ends further away from the bicycle chain, cranks and other moving parts.

Lace one shoe as above and the other shoe in reverse, with both knots positioned towards the inside (between the ankles). This places the loops and loose ends further away from the outer sides of the shoes, making them less likely to become snagged in undergrowth while hiking / bushwalking.

NOTE: These are approximate shoelace lengths for using this lacing on an average sized sneaker. For more accurate lengths, use the Shoelace Length Calculator .

Odd Workarounds

As mentioned above, Hiking / Biking Lacing only works neatly on shoes with even numbers of eyelet pairs. Here's several common workarounds for shoes with odd numbers of eyelet pairs, using sample diagrams with seven pairs of eyelets.

Ends Don't Meet

This first diagram shows how the ends don't meet naturally, instead ending up diagonally opposite each other. This defeats the whole concept of this lacing, in which the ends are intended to be tied at the side of the shoe.

Across and Back

As shown in more detail in the main lacing diagram above, the second-from-bottom straight section runs straight across from left-to-right (on the inside), then right-to-left (on the outside), tucking under the vertical section on the left side. Contributed by Jeremy J.

Twice Through One Eyelet

Start straight across the bottom with the ends emerging through both bottom eyelets, then run one end back across the bottom, under the side and out through the same eyelet as the other end. Both ends are now emerging from the same bottom eyelet (in this example, the bottom-right). Contributed by Dan S.

One Diagonal

Use a single diagonal somewhere in the lacing, such as shown here at the very bottom. Near the middle, a diagonal may be positioned to line up with and run through a tongue centering loop (if the shoe has one).

One Crossover

Instead of trying to hide a single diagonal, this alternative makes a feature out of a single crossover, similar to the look of Roman Lacing.

Unlike the above “One Diagonal” variation, the crossover cannot be placed in the middle of the lacing.

Double Overlap

Like a squashed version of the above “One Crossover” variation, both ends run straight across one pair of eyelets and feed a second time through the opposite eyelets. Being near the bottom, any difficulty with tightening or loosening this section is not so noticeable as the shoe doesn't need to open wide at that point.

Skip One Eyelet Pair

All of the above odd workarounds are laced normally through an even number of eyelet pairs, then something is added that may be either visually or functionally awkward. An alternative is to not add anything – instead leaving either the top or the bottom pair of eyelets empty, or even to skip one pair of eyelets somewhere in the middle of the lacing.

Cut and Tie Off

Finally, if you're prepared to cut your shoelaces, the two portions can be anchored diagonally opposite each other at the bottom of the shoe, either with simple stopper knots or using Lace Anchors.

Note that the two “half” shoelaces should be different lengths. Use the calculations for Half & Half Straight Bar Lacing in the Shoelace Length Calculator.