You've operated at the top of the sport for nearly two decades. Which of your first ascents and repeats stand out to you personally as landmarks in your climbing?

Two decades. Wow. That kind of just happens I guess when you are passionate and living in the moment—both in the short term and apparently the long term too!

Some of my first ascents that stand out to me are Bone Tomahaw, 9a (5.14d); Weekend At Bernie's 8c (5.14b); Southern Smoke 8c+ (5.14c) and Maquina Muerte 8c+ or 9a (5.14d). These are all routes that are super high quality and pushed me in ways that will stick with me forever—whether they brought a controversy, a life-goal-challenge, or just a great fucking time. First ascents are very personal experiences and something I relish in as a climber. There is nothing more concrete in time or that has more longevity in rock climbing than putting a route up. You could win a comp, flash a hard route or send your project, but that's all short term. Adding a route is forever and there is something really special about that to me. It's really hard to pick a favorite as they are all precious to me and gave me major satisfaction. Whether I climbed it first or Chris Sharma did., I made it possible for people to experience and my name is attached to that. That's cool to me.

First ascents like that are no easy feat. What goes through your mind and deal with the potential impossibility as you go through the process? How do you keep motivation when something is near your limit?

Climbing on near-limit routes and staying sane isn't easy for me. It's sometimes a gamble and I question whether I am wasting my time or not. For sure I have bolted climbs I will never do. But it isn't always about sending either. Dave Graham taught me that at one point. He questioned my motives during a climbing trip in Spain and suggested I try things that aren't a sure-shot-send. I've been doing that a lot more than I used to and honestly I haven't been let down in terms of fun and enjoyment. I believe we need to try things that may be out of our realm of possibility and see what we can do or even potentially do with some training and work. That's where climbing at your limit is the best. When you find that one possible route and you can almost envision doing it, but barely. One year might be different and you will surely know when you do feel the window opens for possible redpoint. Climbing's always hard and I really enjoy the mode of being involved with a project, learning the ins and outs, the subtitles, the tricks, times of day/year, the sensation of the good links and the bits of personal progress. It's all very sensational and personal to everyone in their own right. Talking about this stuff right now gets my blood pumping!