Encounter big smiles and a welcoming vibe as you enter this chic and convivial wine-focused establishment. While it may be located on a quiet strip, don't be fooled as there is a palpable buzz within—thanks to the culinary expertise of Chef Nick Curtola and celebrity cachet of owner James Murphy (LCD Soundsystem).Inside, the décor is as minimalist as their succinct menu. Start with chicken liver mousse or the stalwart yellowfin tuna dressed tonnato-style and made bright with yuzu kosho. Montauk scallops cured in a vibrant leche de tigre have a fantastic Thai bent enhanced with the earthy edge of thinly sliced kohlrabi. Just like cultured butter is a perfect companion to warm house-made bread, slices of Bosc pear and salt-baked onion augment beautifully crisped and properly rendered Long Island duck. Let the sociable staff talk you into closing over a quince-and-frangipane tart with citrus whipped cream.This neighborhood gem is laser focused when it comes to wine, so if their wide-ranging, impressive selection has you atwitter, fret not, as it also features half-glasses for abundant sampling. Weekend lunches include a set menu of four small dishes, and at $32, they're a relative bargain.