In “Farm,” the pilot episode of the comedy series “Portlandia,” a couple named Peter and Nance attempt to order chicken in a Portland restaurant. Their server, Dana, describes the pedigree and diet of the bird on the menu: “heritage breed,” “woodland raised,” “fed sheep’s milk, soy and hazelnuts.” Peter and Nance grill Dana about the chicken’s organic bona fides. They review official papers describing Colin the chicken’s origin and living conditions and then, still unsatisfied, they depart for the farm where Colin was raised to verify that he lived a happy, free-range life.

Soon,...