NEW DELHI: Barely 10 days since Prime Minister Narendra Modi urged people to buy khadi in his ‘Mann ki Baat’ address on radio, Khadi Gramodyog Bhavan in Connaught Place has witnessed a massive jump in sales. “There has been an 88% increase since the PM spoke about buying khadi on September 20,” says Naresh Pal, deputy chief executive officer and manager at the store.

They had seen it coming. The store has witnessed a change in its customer base in the past few months. Around 60% to 70% of the customers are now youngsters. In order to cater to this younger clientele, the emporium has repackaged khadi with newer and modern patterns besides a contemporary style.

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The PM’s call did strike a chord. “Our sales are booming owing to a younger crowd that wants to experiment, and keeping this in mind we have also brought about a change in our line of products. Earlier 30% of the products in the store were readymade but now this has been increased to 70%,” says Pal.

He says the youth are increasingly getting attracted to khadi because of brighter colours and the fact that it is comfortable to wear. “It is a most comfortable fabric to wear. I can wear it both in summer and winter,” says Anuj Kalra ,a student who was trying on a khadi kurta for the first time.

The Bhavan gets khadi from over 3,000 institutions across the country. “Weavers from these institutions are registered with us. We finance them and guide them technically. Around 40% of the cost of the produce goes to the weavers,” says Pal.

The store now has an all-new designer section. Four hundred designers from across the country have been roped in to showcase their creativity. Buyers can get the garments customized too.

“Khadi is a good fabric to play with. It has a very earthy feel and the texture of the cloth itself is enough to make the final product look good,” says designer Shaila Khubchandani. “I love wearing all hand-woven fabrics from college days, particularly the sarees that are made out of khadi. Khadi Gramodyog Bhavan is trying to keep abreast of contemporary designs and the new stock is very attractive,” says Sanjana Verma, a school principal.

Organizations across the country are working to make khadi popular. Malkha Marketing Trust, a Hyderabad-based initiative that aims for a decentralised, sustainable, field-to-fabric cotton textile chain that is collectively owned and managed by the primary producers, is one of them. It has brought together in the capital organizations promoting khadi from across the country.

“Metros are becoming very good markets for khadi because people here have taste. We have also altered our designs and colours accordingly,” says Sangeet Kumar from Chitrika Artisan Development Foundation, Secunderabad, who is participating in the exhibition.

According to khadi institutions, a surge in demand from retailers, boutique owners, designer labels and online portals have also boosted sales. There has been a simultaneous restoration of the traditional processes which give the fabric a unique feel.

“While making khadi, weavers take baled cotton. In that baling and un-baling, the cotton loses a lot of its good qualities, particularly its elasticity. We at Malkha have completely eliminated this process and thus our fabric has this very springy feel,” says Uzra Bilgrami, who started Malkha. “The sarees made from Malkha cloth don't get crushed. You can wear them at least three times without having to iron them,” she says.

There are organizations from Andhra Pradesh, Gujarat, Karnataka, Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh and Tamil Nadu that have integrated the traditional embroidery of tribal artisans with modern patterns to suit the fast-changing fashion trends.

The khadi and dyeing unit of Maharashtra-based Magan Sangrahalaya Samiti is using the technique of fresh leaf printing on khadi cloth. “A paste is made out of tamarind seed powder, and just like block printing, we print motifs using actual leaves. We produce the entire range, from jackets to sarees,” says Mukesh Lutade, director of the unit.

The Porgai Artisans Association from Sittilingi Valley in Tamil Nadu has roped in Lambadi women to make their traditional embroidery on khadi fabric. Khadi cloth scraps are processed into accessories like neckpieces, earrings and bags.