My location is not Ideal but it's temporary and will work fine for now.



It's best to have the saw's table level; this is my fast, build in-place method. It starts with mounting one of the brackets to the wall--note that it's hanging loosely off of one screw. Once I know the approximate location for the harness on the bracket, I make one strong tack at the top where the two meet. Next, gently hook the saw onto the tacked harness while supporting its weight so the tack doesn't brake. With the level on the saws table (I should be doing this with my new table), cold-set the tacked joint moving the harness towards or away from the wall, which, in turn, will level the table. Once set in place, pull the saw out and tack the harness to the bracket at the bottom. Then, tack the other bracket to the harness. Put the saw in the cradle again and twist the bracket clock-wise or counter-clock-wise to achieve a plumb blade or level table. Then, screw the bracket in place. Finish the cradle by welding the harness and brackets together at logical locations.



Test for proper fit up by dropping the saw in the cradle and pushing the front edge of the table towards the wall to the left and right. If there is shifting in the cradle, more material is needed to stabilize the saw during cutting. It is unsafe to leave the cradle in this condition.



I prefer to mount my saw so that I can be seated while cutting. Additionally, I like to level the top of the saw's table with a mobile table so that I can shape large sheet metal or cut long stock that would be awkward to hold up to the saw (kind of like having an infinitely adjustable table surface). Hey, maybe you need an adjustable hight feature, too? The cradle in this instructable is mounted a bit high on the wall in my work space (48") due to availability of space. Later I will mount it at 38" to match the top surface of a rolling cart that I own. At 38" I can work comfortably while sitting on a stool or standing. 48" is not bad for small intricate work while standing.