Sure, we hadn't heard of it til five minutes ago, but suddenly we can't wait to go to Aarhus, Denmark's deliciously cosmopolitan second city and the new Scandi capital for foodies and coolhunters. Here's where to find the top tables in town

Sleek copper and raw materials at St Pauls Apothek, in Denmark's hot-right-now second city of Aarhus

As Copenhagen's multi-award-winning restaurant Noma prepares to close its doors, the search for the next Nordic culinary hit has intensified. Sweden and Finland are vying for attention, but it's back in Denmark and the city of Aarhus that one of the most hotly tipped food scenes can be found. Aarhus is also a European Capital of Culture in 2017, making it one of our Top 10 Holiday Destinations 2017.


Green Neighbour at Central Food Market, Aarhus

Scene-stealing street food

Inspired by London's Borough Market, the Aarhus Street Food hub is set in shipping containers inside a former bus garage. Grab a seat at a long table and feast on Vietnamese sandwiches from the Banh Mi Bandits, crêpes from The French Corner and parcels of good old fish and chips. There are also smarter joints and stalls selling caviar and truffles at the Central Food Market. Make for the outpost of much-loved Aarhus coffee shop La Cabra for killer cortados and home-baked sourdough bread.

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Best restaurants

For a more formal supper, the one-Michelin-starred Substans and no-menu Hærværk both serve forward-thinking, farm-to-table food. At Substans, a pared-back aesthetic - wooden tables, light interiors and a living wall - reflects the no-fuss attitude. Here, dishes such as rye-and-rabbit ravioli or rosemary ice cream take centre stage. At industrial-chic Hærværk, menus are based on what's been picked that day; the moreish pumpkin profiteroles are excellent when paired with a glass of natural wine.

Cod and asparagus at Substans restaurant, Aarhus


The Drop cocktail at St Pauls Apothek

Coolest bars

Breathing new life into the city's bar culture is fresh-on-the-scene cocktail lab Gedulgt (an old Danish word for 'secret'), a swanky spot from the team behind local favourite St Pauls Apothek. At Gedulgt there are drinks that foam and fume, and hipsters sit around marble tables on Arne Jacobsen chairs. The masterstroke is the American Beauty, a floral cocktail made with Nordic gin and yuzu, and topped with rose petals. At bare-bricked Great Coffee, bearded baristas serve just that - great coffee. There are also freshly roasted coffee beans and curious-looking brewing equipment to bag.

Things to do you absolutely can't miss

Aarhus is also 2017's Cultural Capital of Europe. Head to the industrial waterfront to find Dokk1, home to Scandinavia's largest public library. Across town, Olafur Eliasson's rainbow-coloured rooftop walkway is at ARoS Aarhus Art Museum, which will host the city's first Triennial in April.

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This feature first appeared in Condé Nast Traveller January/February 2017


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