For far-right political groups in France, the kebab is much more than a popular cuisine. It is a symbol of the growing “Islamisation” of the country.

Racial tensions between natural-born French citizens and immigrants have grown in France over the past several years—as illustrated by the country’s controversial veil ban and several high-profile incidents of violence. Middle Eastern fare, particularly kebabs, have played an intriguing role in the conflict.

A man cuts meat from a spit as he prepares kebabs in a fast-food restaurant in Marseille. REUTERS/Jean-Paul Pelissier

Tensions date as far back as 2011, when government officials banned an Islamophobic, anti-halal march, the Marche des Cochons (Parade of Pigs), that was slated to occur in May of that year in the French town of Lyon. Most recently, the far-right’s crusade flared up after four kebab houses opened up their doors last month in the French town of Blois. In response to the new restaurants, the conservative National Front party said in a statement, according to Newsweek, “The historical center of Blois, the jewel of French history, is turning into an oriental city.”

Or in other words, the group resents the growing presence of international cuisine in the town, which is a mark of a burgeoning Middle Eastern population in France. The country consumes approximately 300 million kebabs on a yearly basis, amounting to a whopping $1.9 billion industry, according to data from market research company Gira Conseil. And while pizza and burgers still beat out those tasty skewers of meat in popularity, the National Front party seems set on vilifying the food to propagate its anti-immigration agenda.

This, however, is certainly not the first time people have turned to cuisine to further their political agendas. Don’t forget the U.S. House of Representatives’ crusade to get people to start referring to french fries as “freedom fries” after France chose not to offer its allegiance in 2003 when the U.S. decided to go to war in Iraq. Or even back during WWI when the sauerkraut was called “liberty cabbage” and frankfurters became of thing of the past—only to be replaced by hot dogs.