First things that come to mind, when you hear the word “GOA” are sun, sand and fun and not to forget the famous “Feni”. Bollywood movies have notoriously further descended her credibility to yellow buildings, drugs and casinos, limiting her to drunkeneds, Catholics,Charlie Chaplin- styled Pedro and churches. Let me park, the topic of “Inquisition”, one of the most sort after topics by many misguided souls for my future article.

Being born and raised in Temple town of Goa, there is a lot to my “GOA” then the limited malicious interpretations of the tiny state on the Western coast of the mighty India…my Goa is Beautiful, Breath-taking and Blessed..and similar was the feeling many centuries ago.

In Suta Samhita Govapuri or Goa is associated with spiritually cleansing touch –

“…The very sight of Govapuri destroys any sin committed in former existence just as sunrise dispels darkness… Certainly there is no other kshetra equal to Govapuri ”

A similar hymn praising Govapuri city is found in Sahyadrikhanda of Skanda Purana, which says the extent of Govapuri was about seven yojanas (vedic measurement,meaning not be mistaken for “plan”in hindi)(1 योजन = distance of about 7.2 kilometers).

“ गोकर्णादुत्तरे भागे सप्तयोजनविस्तृतं

तत्र गोवापुरी नाम नगरी पापनाशिनी ”

The earliest literary reference to Goa is in the Bhishma Parva of Mahabharata as “Gomanta” which translates as the “Region of Cows”.

Parashurama is mentioned as it’s creator in Skanda Purana – Sahyadrikhanda.Experts in the field of Archaeology feel that the place where Parashurama’s arrow landed is believed to be the present day Goa.

Brahmapuris were ancient universities run by the Brahmins where the Vedas, astrology, philosophy, medicine and other subjects were studied.

Goa has come under the direct or indirect sway of a host of ancient and medieval rulers like the Mauryas, the Bhojas, the Shatavahanas, Kadambas, Chalukyas of Badami, Rashtrakutas of Malkhed, Shilaharas, Yadavas of Devagiri, Vijayanagar Empire, Bahmani Sultanate, Portuguese, Marathas and others.Goa was one of the major trade centres in India, thus it had always been attracting the influential dynasties, seafarers, merchants, traders, monks and missionaries since its earliest known history.The admixture of several cultures, customs, religions, dialects and beliefs, led to revolutionary change in early Goan society and this may be one of the reason for the “Secular” and accommodating behaviour of present day Goans,irrespective of their religion.

Mahadev Temple at Tambdi Surla

One of the interesting monuments which survived it all is the 12th Century Mahadev Temple at Tambdi Surla, the oldest surviving Temple in Goa.

The temple is built in the Hemadpanthi style Architecture from basalt with intricate carvings. It is considered to be the only specimen of Kadamba-Yadava architecture in basalt stone preserved and available in Goa.

As Shiva, was one of the chief deities of the Kings of the Kadamba dynasty,they had built many Shiva Temples across Goa between 1006–1356 CE.

The temple faces east so that the first rays of the rising sun shine on the deity, a linga which is the symbol of Lord Shiva mounted on a pedestal inside the inner sanctum and locals believe a huge king cobra is in permanent residence in the dimly lit interior.

The temple is small compared to the average Goan temple.It consists of garbhagriha, antarala and a pillared Nandi mandapa built of basalt.

The four pillars, embellished with intricate carvings of elephants and chains support a stone ceiling decorated with finely carved Ashtoken lotus flowers.

There is a headless Nandi (bull, Shiva’s vehicle) in the centre of the mandap, surrounded by four matching columns. The symbol of the Kadamba kingdom, an elephant trampling a horse is carved on the base of one of the columns.

The small mandap and the inner sanctum is surmounted by a three-tired tower whose top is incomplete or has been dismantled sometime in the distant past.The mandap (pillared hall) is covered with a roof of plain grey sloping slabs.

The intricate carvings created by skilled craftsmen adorn the interior and the sides of the building. The river Surla flows nearby and is reachable for ritual bathing by a flight of stone steps.

The festival of Mahashivratri is celebrated with pomp and gaiety at the temple by local people residing in surrounding villages.

Kadamba Dynasty was founded by Mauryasharma,a Brahmin by birth but later his successors changed their surname to Varma to indicate their kshatriya status.They were followers of Vedas. They also patronised Jainism and several of the latter kings adopted the religion. They patronised Shaivism and Jainism in Goa.

The Seuna Yadavas of Devagiri and the Muslim Invasions destroyed the dynasty and the ruins of their palaces, mansions,temples and markets can still be seen in Chandor village.Throughout its history Goa has undergone continual transformation, leaving an indelible impression on various aspects of its cultural and socio-economic development.One of the reasons this ancient Shiva Temple has managed to survive the various persecutions, is it’s remote location surrounded by dense forests in the north-east region of the Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary and Mollem National Park.

Over a decade ago,I remember going for my school picnic to Tamdi Surla,in a crowded bus, on a bumpy muddy road,with huge trees on either sides and the tigs and branches hitting our faces while the bus passed the narrow road to the temple.I remember, not finding a clean place to eat our lunch and we had to manage sitting in groups near a lot of snake hills, but the sight of the temple is enchanting and peaceful.

If you missed out on the dangling Electric cables and the Archaeological Survey of India notice boards, you feel as though you have time-traveled to a different era.In a bid to boost the Tourism Industry, Goa Government has taken steps to improve accessibility and for the beautification of the place.

Such is the glorious connection of Goa and Dharma.Through this post, I call upon every fellow Goan, not to hesitate to correct any misguided soul,when half-baked truth is spoken about the History of Goa. Goa is our motherland and our responsibility , so start objecting to any malicious misrepresentations of our culture and assist in spreading the facts about Goa. There is a lot more Dharma, Temples, History and Culture to Goa then “INQUISITION” & “GOLMAAL” series, which I’d write in my future articles…Until then….

HAR HAR MAHADEV