Unfortunately, the bodega business model lends itself to selling non-perishable foods that are often unhealthy. Bodega owners have thin profit margins and severe cash constraints, making them unlikely to take risks. They want to ensure every inch of shelf space is filled with affordable goods of interest to their customers. Fresh produce is inherently risky because of its relatively high price and short shelf life. "Sometimes I bring a box of apples," Hilou said, "but I throw half of it away. Not worth it."

Perhaps not surprisingly, New York's "green deserts" -- that is, neighborhoods with limited access to nutritious food -- also suffer the city's highest rates of obesity and diabetes. Approximately 60 percent of adults (PDF) in East and Central Harlem are either overweight or obese, and less than 10 percent of Harlem residents eat the daily recommended servings of fruits and vegetables.

The New York City Department of Health thinks bodegas can -- and must -- play an important role in correcting this. In 2005, the department launched the Healthy Bodegas Initiative to increase nutritional offerings in at-risk neighborhoods. "We know bodegas are a main source of food in these neighborhoods," said Sabrina Baronberg, deputy director of the department's Physical Activity and Nutrition Program. "And when we look inside, the majority of them have unhealthy food and unhealthy advertising."

To date, the Initiative has worked with over 1,000 bodegas in East Harlem, the South Bronx, and Central Brooklyn. Interventions typically last about six months and are tailored to the store. In some stores, they introduce healthier canned items, diet soda, multigrain bread, and low-fat milk. If the storeowner is more ambitious, the Initiative helps the bodega begin stocking fresh produce. The Initiative has even bought smoothie blenders and "fruit salad starter kits" for bodega owners interested in selling higher-end products.

Greenmarket, a project of New York City's Council on the Environment, has taken a more drastic measure to bring healthy food into bodegas. They have recently begun giving bodegas refrigerators in which to keep seasonal fruits, vegetables, and 100 percent juice. "People are asking and demanding better products," said Michael Hurwitz, Greenmarket's executive director. "We thought we'd provide bodegas with the infrastructure to store and display these products, and work with an existing distributor to get them there."

The Healthy Bodegas Initiative and Greenmarket both hope increased availability of nutritious food will eventually make communities healthier. At the same time, they recognize the tremendous challenges associated with effectively changing people's food habits.

"The biggest challenge," said Baronberg, "is supporting [bodega owners] in making that first step. The supply and demand hang on each other so strongly. The store may be unwilling to stock an item because they're afraid no one will buy it."