Now Entering Navarra © 2020 Katy Zweifel

Where Are You Going?

Crossing borders on the Camino de Santiago

40 Days to Santiago: Day 2 — Orisson to Roncesvalles

Waking time is a point of tension among pilgrims on the Camino. Some rise while it is still dark, slipping away unnoticed in the pre-dawn hour. There are various reasons for this. Some want to get a head start on the heat. Many worry about not finding a bed at the next stopping place, and hope to arrive before the crowds. Others, often those who prefer to enjoy evenings socializing, are slipping boots on minutes before the time guests are shooed out of the albergues so the hospitaleros can prepare for the next wave.

Compared to many of the others, I move slowly through these days of walking. I tend to begin with the early risers, but those who crawl out of their bunks after me usually stride past by late morning. When people ask me about my favorite part of the Camino, on my long list are the days when I walked with the rising of the sun.

Orisson Sunrise © 2020 Katy Zweifel

Few of those sunrises will come close to the one that greets me on this second morning of the pilgrimage. Pausing at the spot where we meditated last night, I marvel at the fog seeping into the valleys, folding around the hills and transforming peaks into islands in a golden sea.

As we head towards Santiago, we walk from East to West…and the sun marches in step with us. Some might prefer to see the sun as moving towards the West, while others think of it as moving away from the East. On the Camino, it is difficult to tell if I am moving towards some hoped-for future or away from a past — one that hasn’t quite taken me to the place I thought I’d be by now.

Pilgrimage itself is a sort of rising . We shake ourselves out of our sleep and heading into the unknown. We walk away from something while at the same time march toward what lies ahead.

The day begins with breakfast in the one-room dining area at Orisson. Coffee is served in a bowl at this place, so we’re already off to a fantastic start, even though although a windswept day on the roads of the Pyrenees awaits. Our next stop — Roncesvalles — waits for us, 18 kilometers away, on the other side of the France-Spain border. After we eat, one of our new group decides to take a cab to Roncesvalles, and mercifully brings some of our heavier items with him.

Into the Pyrenees © 2020 Katy Zweifel

Although long, the day is mostly pleasant, along paved roads with sweeping views of the Pyrenees. Horses graze on the hillsides, and the occasional herd of sheep comes into view, creating an idyllic pastoral scene during the first part of the walk. There are occasional close calls, including one in which I separated from the group and was harassed by a shepherd. Note to self: stop letting others take advantage of your good nature.

Just before crossing into Spain, we come across a stone fountain by the side of the mountain path. Here, we rest with other pilgrims, refill our bottles, and refuel on sandwiches we bought at the albergue that morning. This is a sweltering summer, and these pauses by the water will become a sacred ritual.

While resting, I re-read a note from my sister which I opened this morning:

“Do you cross into España today? I imagine being in Pais Vasco has prompted thoughts of regions and territories and borders…wishing your feet well as they carry you across another.” — MZ

SJPP to Roncesvalles © 2020 Katy Zweifel

Just beyond the fountain, about halfway through the day’s walk, we cross the border and set foot in Spain.