Photo

After successful tryouts on the road, in Roslyn and Irvington, N.Y., Michael Psilakis is bringing his version of a Greek brasserie to New York City. And for a Greek restaurant, an address in Astoria, Queens, is as Broadway as it gets.

“It’s exciting for me to be in Astoria,” Mr. Psilakis said. “It’s the center of Greek culture in New York.”

This incarnation, which opens tonight, is larger than the others, in a handsome building with its name carved on the cornice. Mr. Psilakis said he and his team practically had to rebuild the structure from the inside out to support some features they wanted to install, like floor-to-ceiling glass leading to the outdoor seating. The ground floor is clearly designed as a tavern with industrial details, including lots of ironwork. It echoes the look of his suburban places, except that those have less metalwork than this, “the urban version,” he said. Upstairs, a more polished dining room has buttery leather chairs and a cylindrical light fixture focused over each table.

The fare offers few surprises. “I want people to recognize the menu,” Mr. Psilakis said. “The specials will go further afield.” He mentioned dishes he grew up eating, like braised goat with avgolemono sauce. His irresistible lamb dumplings are on the menu, along with his grandmother’s meatballs, a Greek “paella” with seafood and sausage, and gyro sliders. Order five days in advance, and you can bag a whole spring lamb, baby goat or pig, among other feasts.

MP Taverna, 31-29 Ditmars Boulevard, Astoria, Queens, (718) 777-2187, mptaverna.com.