I became enraged by a vegan hot dog last week. It popped up in my Twitter feed, along with the words, “This might be the healthiest hot dog you’ll ever eat.” I’ve noticed for a while now that various brands sell the brazen idea that if something is vegan, it is in and of itself healthy. This is simply not true. You could live off chips and fizzy drinks and call yourself a vegan. It wouldn’t be any worse for you than eating vegan junk food: at least chips are merely processed. The current avalanche of vegan junk food — burgers, hot dogs, nuggets, sausages, as well as ready meals — is ultra-processed, unnatural and a great deal less good for you than, say, a