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Retinoids vs retinol in skincare are sometimes confusing especially when everyone keeps talking about its benefits. You might also want to try it out. But first, it is important to know the terms and how to use it.

Before I dive deeper, I would like you to know the vocabularies and differences between Retinoids vs retinol in skincare. Most times I hear people use it interchangeably but it is not quite the same.

Retinoid

A broad family of related compounds derived from Vitamin A. You can find retinoid in beta-carotene such as carrots, pumpkins, sweet potatoes or broccoli. Different types of retinoids include:

Retinol: vitamin A itself

Tretinoin: Also known as retinoic acid. It is naturally occurring and which you can find in quality rosehip oil.

Retinoic acid esters: Also known as Hydroxylpinacolone Retinoate

Retinaldehyde

Isotretinoin

Adapalene

It is with no doubt that Vitamin A is part of the royal family when it comes to active ingredients. Another name for Retinol is Vitamin A and to put it simply, its main job is to tell the skin to behave better in a normal healthier way.

So in this post, I plan on breaking it down for better understanding of Retinoids vs retinol. If there is anything I miss or wrong about, please let me know down in the comment box.

Tretinoin

Tretinoin is the queen of the royal family because it is the biocompatible form of vitamin A. This means that when tretinoin is applied to the skin, the skin receives it without any conversion. It works right away without any hesitation.

Tretinoin came about when two doctors named Doctor Fulton and Albert Kingman treated patients with acne. Because Tretinoin has anti-inflammatory, anti-acne properties, patients benefited from it. But something out of the ordinary happened with Tretinoin. Other than treating acne, patients reported that their skin got smoother, healthier, bouncier, firmer and even less wrinkled. This was where the research into anti-aging properties of retinoids started.

Subsequent clinical research also proved the anti-aging properties of Tretinoin. Since then Tretinoin is recognised to be the gold standard for fine lines and wrinkles that ultimately got FDA approval. Till today, this is the only active ingredient that is approved by the FDA to reverse signs of aging. This is actually a BIG DEAL!

how does tretinoin work?

Retinoic acid work on the skin cellular level meaning they bind directly to retinoic acid receptors and the effects kicks off immediately. With Tretinoin, you don’t have to worry about any conversions within the skin. It all just happens like magic.

skin benefits of tretinoin

Anti-aging benefits – This is the first on the list due to its FDA approval. Tretinoin does this by inhibiting the enzyme (matrix metalloproteinase) that breaks down collagen. Not only does Tretinoin inhibit the break down of collagen but it also boosts the production of collagen which means you get firmer and less wrinkled skin.

– This is the first on the list due to its FDA approval. Tretinoin does this by inhibiting the enzyme (matrix metalloproteinase) that breaks down collagen. Not only does Tretinoin inhibit the break down of collagen but it also boosts the production of collagen which means you get firmer and less wrinkled skin. Anti-acne – This was what Tretinoin was originally developed for. It prevents skin cells from sticking together that ends up clogging pores. It also helps your skin produce less sebum and has some certain degree of exfoliation.

This was what Tretinoin was originally developed for. It prevents skin cells from sticking together that ends up clogging pores. It also helps your skin produce less sebum and has some certain degree of exfoliation. Skin-brightener – It also has skin lightening property. Although, it is not as strong as hydroquinone it helps with hyperpigmentation and sunspots.

The benefits of Tretinoin are simply awesome which may make you want to go out and buy it right now. But I would like you to also know the side effects which are pretty scary.

side effects of tretinoin or retinoic acid

Just like every other medication, Tretinoin has side effects. The skin becomes highly irritated, excessive dryness and redness occur. It increases water loss from the epidermal layer and decreases ceramide production. I would suggest you get a moisturizer and sunscreens when using retinoic acid.

Another big issue with Retinoic acid is that it is contraindicated in pregnant women. Its teratogenic effects are not well established but it is highly recommended not to apply or use retinoic acid while pregnant. When it comes to pregnancy, it is best to be cautious.

Lastly, retinoic acid is a prescription medication. So you would have to go to your physician who is aware of your skin condition. Tretinoin is not available in cosmetics or over the counter.

Retinol

Unlike Tretinoin, you can readily get retinol over the counter or in any skincare products. Retinol is not as effective as retinoic acid because our skin has to convert retinol to retinoic acid. The conversion goes like this;

Retinol ——> Retinaldehyde ——> Retinoic acid

Once retinol gets converted by the skin to tretinoin, then we can see the effects mentioned in the description of tretinoin. But it is important to know that not all the retinol products you apply will work immediately. Due to the two-step breakdown, the process might be slow so it takes time to actually see the effects of retinol.

However, the skincare industry has a way of making amazing products that is milder and more gentle that works effectively within few weeks of usage. There are lots of vitamin A derivatives out there. For example, “The Ordinary” skincare line makes great retinol products that work effectively within few days.

The newest derivative of Retinol is HPR. HPR stands for Hydroxylpinacolone Retinoate.

Hydroxylpinacolone Retinoate or hPR

I think the Queen of the Royal Family (Tretinoin) will gladly accept the talented princess HPR into their midst. HPR or retinoic acid ester has little to no irritation and it is readily welcomed by the skin. Unlike Retinol that needs to be converted by the skin, HPR needs no conversion. This princess is highly welcomed because it binds directly to the retinoic acid receptor and starts working its magic straight away.

Studies have shown that HPR significantly reduced wrinkles, age spots and hyperpigmentation and another study showed that it has significantly lower irritation than retinol.

Have you noticed that “The Ordinary” skincare line have lots of retinoids? One of them is Gravaactive retinoids. They are simply HPR with other ingredients added to it.

Since this is such a new promising ingredient, not much research has been done on it.

Bakuchiol

This is another promising ingredient that acts like retinol but it is not retinol. It is plant-based gotten from a plant called Psoralea corylifolia. This ingredient is very interesting because Bakuchiol is not even a member of retinol or retinoic acid. However, this ingredient works similar to retinoic acid.

The biggest similarity is that it inhibits collagen breakdown and also promote collagen production which is amazing for anti-aging. In fact, a comprehensive study was done between retinol cream and bakuchiol cream. The results showed that Bakuchiol cream did not have any irritation.

Another great news is that it also has anti-acne benefits. For people who are using retinoic acid, retinol or any source of vitamin A for acne purposes, Bakuchiol can be a great alternative.

when is the right time to start retinol for beginners?

There is really no specific age to start using vitamin A. Everyone is different, we all age differently and we all have a different lifestyle. However, most dermatologists will recommend that you start using retinol in your late 20’s or early 30’s. If you are in your teenage years, I will highly recommend you consult your physician because acne can be managed with Tretinoin, adapalene or other vitamin A derivatives.

how to start incorporating retinol in your skincare routine

If you are starting from over the counter retinol, I will strongly recommend that you start with lowest to the lowest retinol that is available. You can start with HPR or Backuchiol because they both do not have a lot of irritation. Do a patch test on your hands before starting. You can take a small paste and rub it, then leave for 20 minutes. If no irritation occurs, then you can apply it on your face. Also, use it at night at least once or twice a week.

It is very important that you monitor the progress and how your skin reacts to it. It may or may not be good for you as we are all different. You should also moisturize deliberately with diligent use of sunscreens like every single day.

Conclusion

If you are still here, then that is great. Thank you for following up and reading through to know the difference between Retinoids vs retinol.

I hope now, you understand retinoids vs retinol better and how to start incorporating it in your skincare. Check out my product recommendation here. Don’t forget to like and share, sharing is caring.

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