× 1 of 6 Expand A close up of the Medart double cheeseburger × 2 of 6 Expand A shot of a drum kit light cover. Each one in the space is unique. × 3 of 6 Expand The rarified jukebox with music you really want to listen to. × 4 of 6 Expand The leg lamp above the bar × 5 of 6 Expand The view of the bar from the back of the tavern × 6 of 6 Expand Still life: finished and wrapped burger with darts Prev Next

The double Medart burger arrives wrapped in parchment paper folded to catch the drips and plops from two juicy hamburger patties and a topping of shredded pickles, finely chopped lettuce and onions mixed with a thousand island style dressing. The aroma envelops, the visuals entice, and the first bite goes down so good you’re glad you got the double. It’s not overkill; it is right and fitting.

Here’s the deal. You can only get this awesome burger at Ryder’s Tavern in far south St. Louis on Friday nights from 7 to midnight. Tony Collida (right) floated the idea of offering the legendary burger with owner Ryder Murphy over a few beers. Collida, who works at nearby Civil Life Brewery, often drops in at Ryder’s after work.

“I learned to make this burger cooking at John’s Town Hall, which was in the Dorchester Apartments on Skinker,” Collida says. “I love diner burgers cooked on a flat top grill.”

Collida launched the burgers on February 5. The first night bar patrons ordered doubles and singles. The doubles outsold the singles two to one. Collida plans to add fries to the menu soon. There’s nothing else on the food menu at Ryder’s, although Ryder does make a very nice Chex Mix that’s sometimes available at the bar.

The history of these burgers began in 1930, one year into the Great Depression, according Ron Elz, a.k.a Johnny Rabbit, in Inside St. Louis at the Antique Warehouse. As Collida says, “This guy, Bill Medart, was famous for wrapping his burgers; the perfect hand-held burger, actually. It’s gooey and contained. I wrapped it the way I remember from John’s Town Hall and it works.”

The long and short of it: the burger has a storied history in St. Louis and Tony Collida was lucky enough to make a connection. Ryder Murphy (right) was smart enough to get Tony make them. I was lucky enough to eat one. It won’t be my last.

Ryder may look familiar. “If you drank on the South Side, Ryder’s probably one of the guys who sold you a drink,” Collida says.

By the way, Ryder’s is located in the former home of the Bleeding Deacon, but the Deacon never looked this good. The drinks are terrific. The jukebox rocks with both old and unusual selections. The quirky decor quietly reveals itself with humor – the leg lamp, the art posters of hard-boiled detective books, and the light shades made from different drum kits.

We like the carefully pieced mosaic and wood floors and the elegant hand-lettered restroom doors. Dart boards and a pool table dominate the back of the room. There’s no television. People actually talk to each other here.

We asked Collida what beer pairs best with his version of the Medart burger. “Anything. From Stag to Civil Life, every beer works with this burger,” he says.

Ryder’s Tavern

4123 Chippewa

314-899-9343

Hours:

Mon – Tues: 8 p.m. - 1:30 p.m.

Wed – Sat: 4 p.m. - 1:30 a.m.

Sun -- 2 p.m. - midnight.

Medart Burgers only available on Friday evenings from 7 p.m. to midnight

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