April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman’s newest restaurant, inside the Pod 51 Hotel on East 51st Street, is called Salvation Burger. I can’t say that the first word of the name filled me with hope. The last time this chef and her business partner offered us salvation in a Pod hotel, they gave us Salvation Taco, a thronged taqueria designed for, and seemingly run by, people who don’t know what a taco is.

That second word was promising, though. Ms. Bloomfield definitely knows what a burger is.

There are many good things on her menu at the Spotted Pig, the first restaurant she opened with Mr. Friedman. But each time I ate there recently to see how it was settling into its second decade, it was Ms. Bloomfield’s burger I saw on almost every table, high and proud next to a tumbleweed of shoestring fries. And it’s her lamb patty under feta and onions at the Breslin that is most likely to tempt diners away from the other meaty, fatty delights.

At Salvation Burger, she zeros in on what the people want and dispenses with almost everything else. Three of the five main courses are burgers, and all five come on a bun. She also knocks out bar snacks like popcorn and beef jerky, along with salads and pies, but nobody will accuse Ms. Bloomfield of padding the menu.

The beef burgers come in two forms, highbrow and lowbrow.

Representing the former is the Salvation Burger itself, a tall, tender half-pound patty of ground beef with cheese and mushrooms on a sesame seed bun. Servers like to say this is “cooked like a steak,” but not many restaurant steaks are grilled over a wood fire. Maybe they should be. This burger combines a dark crust that has the specific flavor of charred beef with a soft interior evenly cooked to medium-rare so when you bite down, it surrenders its warm pink juices.