Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

A wooden bridge crosses a creek in the forest along the North Head Trail at Cape Disappointment State Park.

Cape Disappointment is home to a fascinating variety of attractions, and one hike in the coastal state park in Washington acts as a perfect showcase of what it has to offer.



The North Head Hike is smack in the middle of the park, where hikers will find stunning cliffside views, a beautiful lighthouse, coastal rainforest and an abandoned military battery. It’s a beach away from the total package, though the sand is never far.

It’s not just the features that make the hike stand out – the area is also full of historical significance. The southern endpoint of the trek is McKenzie Head, a hill that served as the Lewis and Clark Expedition’s first oceanside campsite in 1805. It was later named for Donald McKenzie, a fur trapper who helped establish the first white settlement at Astoria, just across the Columbia River.

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

Construction crews work on restoring the North Head Lighthouse.

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

The main entrance to Battery 247 on McKenzie Head.

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During World War II, McKenzie Head became a strategic military outpost to protect the mouth of the Columbia River. Battery 247 was built atop the hill, one of three gun batteries that created a “triangle of fire” (Battery 245 is at Fort Stevens and Battery 246 is at Fort Columbia). The battery was deactivated and abandoned by 1947, and it now stands as a modern ruin in the midst of the rainforest.

These days Cape Disappointment is all about recreation. The state park is known for its sprawling campground, two lighthouses, hiking trails, bike path and beaches. It’s popular on sunny days in the summer, as well as on stormy days during winter, when big waves crash against the rocks at Waikiki Beach.

There’s enough to see at Cape Disappointment to fill a long weekend, but for a quick tour it doesn’t get much better than the short hike between McKenzie Head and the North Head Lighthouse – a beautiful stroll through nature and history.

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

A paved pathway leads from a parking lot to the North Head Lighthouse.

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NORTH HEAD HIKE

Distance: 4 miles

Difficulty: Easy

Amenities: Restrooms at lighthouse



There is a trailhead at either side of the hike, one at the North Head Lighthouse and another at the foot of McKenzie Head, found on the road leading into the main campground. The parking area at McKenzie Head is very small, so unless you’re going on a weekday you might be better off starting at the lighthouse.

From the big parking lot, follow a paved trail out to the edge of Cape Disappointment until you see the North Head Lighthouse. From here you can also soak in incredible views over the Pacific Ocean. Head back to the parking lot and take the North Head Trail south into the forest.

The quiet hiking trail leads over wooden bridges and through lush coastal rainforest, emerging on the side of the campground road. Turn left and walk about 100 feet along the road to reach the McKenzie Head Trailhead, which leads .2 miles to the top of McKenzie Head. Here, you can take in more views of the ocean before walking through the dark corridors of Battery 247, which lead to two abandoned gun mounts built into the hill.

Head back the way you came to complete the out-and-back hike. You can also continue north from the North Head Lighthouse parking lot to the Bell’s View Trail, which leads to another viewpoint at the edge of the cape.

--Jamie Hale | jhale@oregonian.com | @HaleJamesB



SEE MORE PHOTOS BELOW

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

A trail leads into the forest near the North Head Lighthouse.

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

A stump and wooden steps lead up the North Head Trail.

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

One of two lighthouse keepers residence buildings at Cape Disappointment State Park, which visitors can rent by the night.

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

The main entrance to Battery 247 on McKenzie Head.