Riccardo Tisci, who left his role as creative director at Givenchy in February of last year for what many presumed was the top job at Versace, has been installed at Burberry as chief creative officer, effective March 12. The British label made the announcement this morning, ending speculation that began the moment Christopher Bailey’s departure was announced in late October 2017.

During his 12-year tenure, Tisci turned Givenchy, which had not much in the way of a brand identity when he arrived in 2005, into one of LVMH’s powerhouse brands, with heat-generating runway shows and a commercial savvy that helped to usher in fashion’s obsession with streetwear. Tisci’s cool factor has been much missed in the year since his departure, though he has kept reasonably active. A new installment of his Nike collaboration was released in mid-February, and his work is to be featured in the Costume Institute’s upcoming “Heavenly Bodies” exhibition, a press conference in Rome on Monday revealed.

Travis Scott wears NikeLab x RT pieces Photographed by Greg Harris, Vogue, April 2016

Marco Gobbetti, Burberry’s CEO as of last July, held the same role at Givenchy before his stint at Céline, so it’s a wonder that Tisci’s name has not come up more often in discussions about who would replace Bailey. (Céline’s Phoebe Philo and Louis Vuitton’s recent menswear designer, Kim Jones, were the designers most often talked about.)

Tisci’s Burberry is likely to look different than Bailey’s. Where Bailey trumpeted heritage, Tisci celebrates hedonism. Having produced haute couture at Givenchy, Tisci also has a great deal of expertise (and red carpet exposure) for eveningwear, a category that Burberry hasn’t really invested in. But as out gay men, they do share common ground in their support of LGBTQ+ freedoms. Bailey’s rainbow-hued swansong for Spring 2018 (Burberry is currently operating on a see-now-buy-now model) will raise money for LGBTQ+ charities globally.

In a statement, Tisci said, “I am honored and delighted to be joining Burberry as its new chief creative officer and reuniting with Marco Gobbetti. I have an enormous respect for Burberry’s British heritage and global appeal and I am excited about the potential of this exceptional brand.”

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