High Willhays, the highest point in southern England, is wrapped in heavy grey cloud. Dartmoor is not mountainous – Willhays is only 621m (2,040ft) above sea level – but it seems to have its own special weather system: one that mixes bursts of sunshine with eerie mists, violent wind and rain. A terrain of bogs and mires, tussocky grass and loose stone makes the going tough.

My dog Harpo and I are out here for three days and two nights of soul–refreshing wilderness among the famous granite outcrops known as tors. As we skirt an ancient stand of stunted oaks, squally rain sweeps through. It's muggy when it isn't raining, so I perform the on–again off–again waterproof trousers dance. I eventually opt to keep them off and hope I'll air–dry before I sleep.

Bedtime won't be at a campsite – curfews and lavatory blocks aren't for me. And we won't be in a tent. If you leave the tent at home, you can sleep pretty much anywhere, undisturbed. You need a sleeping bag, a mat and a bivvy bag – a waterproof, breathable outer sack that goes around your sleeping bag and can be pulled over your head if it starts to rain. It's low–profile and low–tech, and strips the outdoor experience back to essentials.

A bivvy bag is more discreet and requires less space than a tent, so your bedroom options expand exponentially. On a long distance journey, the bivvy bag means you can keep walking until you want to stop. On an overnighter you can walk into the hills when everyone else is walking off. The wild places become your playground.

By the time we reach Yes Tor, I've worked up a sweat and my rucksack feels heavy. I tell myself the load is good for my bone density and dig in for the last push to the top of Yes.

As our reward, the skies clear and the ancient fields of West Devon are laid out in gilded splendour. Then the grey clouds mass again and dampen us with sideways rain and a brisk wind. We drop down off the tor and tuck in behind a granite ledge. Not getting cold in the first place is a much more successful strategy than trying to warm up once you are chilled.

Yes Tor, Dartmoor. Photo: AP

I make a quick brew and scoff a pork pie, and Harpo gets a dog biscuit lunch – once he's eaten them, I don't need to carry them.

I still have a few miles to cover before I get to my planned overnight destination on the eastern edge of the moor. I can see the spot I'm aiming for on the horizon and pick my way towards it. I haven't seen anyone since High Willhays.

Harpo and I reach the magnificent Watern Tor in time for sunset. I find a little nook that we can tuck ourselves into for the night: eastfacing (good for the sunrise), away from the sheep, out of the wind.

Sunset over Dartmoor. Photo: AP

As the sun dips, the blue flicker of my stove and the smoky, sweet whiff of chorizo and noodles bubbling away in a broth of stock–cube and stream water seem to attest that the day has been a success. I put my dry bedtime socks on and wriggle into my bivvy bag to watch the world become a dusky blur.

Rationally, I know no one is up here and it's perfectly safe to sleep. But it takes a little while for the unidentifiable night noises to stop making my heart thud. At 1am, I wake and stare at the glimmering heavens. Who would want to put a tent in the way of experiencing this? What an extraordinary privilege to be out here. I tuck my head back into the bivvy bag, and the next time I wake it's 7am.

Day two is bright and hot and I thank my stars for another day of stress–free navigation. I want to find the famous Cranmere Pool "letterbox", a stone container constructed in 1887 that holds a visitors' book and ink stamp so you can record your success at finding it.

Read more: Britain's best scenic drives

It's in a dip between hills, and the map shows as many "bog" symbols as it does "rough grass". I trip over tussocks three times in as many minutes and realise I need to slow down – breaking an ankle out here would be no small matter. Harpo steps on a mossy bit that turns out to be pure bog and crawls in circles towards the firm edge. And this is after one of the driest summers I can remember – this would be terrifyingly grim in heavy weather.

Just as I'm starting to think I've missed it, I see a footprint in the mud. I am either on track, or there was another lost soul floundering in this bog some time recently. Then I see a stiff, square edge – the Cranmere Pool is dry, but the stone box is very much there. A triumph. I toast our success with dried apricots and a song about bog mud.

Read more: interactive map of adventure travel experiences in Britain



Over the course of the day we meander our way back west, stopping to explore the remains of tinners' huts, enjoying a lunchtime snooze beside a brook, watching the famous fluffy ponies.

We reach Great Links Tor, a huge edifice of sculpted rock. Around its base the sheep have nibbled the grass flat, and we find a lovely spot for an evening camp. There's even a rock ledge to act as my kitchen. Another one–pot gumbo (rice, ham, courgette, milk powder), and Harpo rouses himself to lick the pot clean.

Then suddenly, the Dartmoor mist is upon us. Cloud has been drifting around our tor for a while, tumbling into the valley below. The valley fills with dense white, the other side of the tor is no longer visible, and the world is eerily quiet. The mists thicken and I go to sleep in a cloud, just me, my dog and the wide, wild moor beyond.

How to camp wild

Plan your route and build experience slowly. It's better to go shorter, slower or lower and have a positive experience.

Invest in essential gear: Ellis Brigham (ellis–brigham.com) stocks a range of quality brands and staff have the experience to help you choose what suits your budget and needs best. Always seek specialist help to fit rucksacks and boots.

Never underestimate the British hills: carry food, drink, extra clothing, sun protection, a first aid kit and waterproofs and wear proper footwear. Always carry a torch and whistle, and leave your route and estimated return time with a trusted person.

Check it's legal to pitch where you plan to camp. Photo: AP

Learn to use a map and a compass. A one–day navigation course could save your life.

Leave no trace: don't light fires unless you have express permission from the landowner. Do not camp in a place that will disturb residents, livestock or wildlife. There should be no evidence of your stay after you have left. Always take your litter home.

In Scotland, you have the right to camp almost anywhere, but have the courtesy and common sense not to do so near houses, on cultivated land or at sensitive historic sites. The Mountaineering Council of Scotland has plenty more information at mcofs.org.uk

Wild camping is legal on most of Dartmoor. See dartmoor.gov.uk for full details.

In the rest of England, Northern Ireland and Wales you officially need the permission of the landowner, although many turn a blind eye to bivvy–baggers arriving late at night and departing early in the morning provided they don't light fires and leave no trace of their presence.

How to go to the toilet in the wild

Everyone should know how to relieve him or herself in the woods/moors/mountains.

Even if you're only going out for the day, carry a trowel and toilet paper and you’ll never be caught short again. There's no excuse for leaving soiled tissue and human excrement coming out from under a rock next to a footpath.

Some environmentally sensitive and popular wilderness areas require you to carry your waste out – find out recommendations in advance, get a bunch of strong poop-a-scoop bags and carry a fully sealing container that you can store your deposits in until you can hygienically dispose of them.

Otherwise, bury it:

1. Find a spot that is at least 50m away and downhill from water courses and away from paths, and at least 200m from huts, bothies or natural shelters.

2. Use your trowel to cut through the turf and put the sod to one side.

3. Dig a hole that's wide enough for you to not miss, and at least 6" deep. You want 6" of soil above your deposit.

4. Do your business, and put any soiled paper in the hole. Be careful to keep your hands and trowel and remaining loo roll poo-free. Don't bury sanitary products - wrap them well and take them home to dispose of.

5. Take a minute to enjoy the view.

6. Refill the hole and replace the turf on top.

7. Wash hands well, using a hand sanitiser – poor toilet hygiene is the most likely cause of you getting sick on a camping trip.

How to camp with dogs

Most dogs love the adventure of camping, and delight in spending ‘quality time’ with their humans. However, unless your dog normally sleeps outside, it’s unfair to expect him or her to cope without protection from the elements, especially after a long day of hard walking.

Your dog’s needs are similar to your own – plenty of food and water, fun physical challenges within their capabilities and quality sleep will increase their stamina and enjoyment of the trip.

Carry a mat big enough for your dog. Photo: AP

Cold bare ground will leach body heat (human or canine) away quicker than any amount of rain. I always carry a short camping mat (ellis-brigham.com/equipment/camping-equipment/camping-mats-and-mattresses) for my dog Harpo as well as one for myself, or I empty my rucksack so he can sleep on top of it, off the ground.

If he’s wet, I’ll try and dry his fur as much as possible to minimise heat loss. Conversely, if he’s hot I’ll encourage him into a stream to cool off. Dogs can overheat far more easily than we can.

If we’re in a tent, the sleeping mat is normally enough to keep Harpo comfortable, but if we’re bivvying, he needs more.

If you have a small dog and a large bivvy bag, it would be possible to fit in together, (although you would emerge in the morning smelling like a dog!). Harpo and I are too big for that, so he has his own bivvy bag.

For a thorough overview of bivvy bags, have a look at adventurer Tim Moss’ reviews: thenextchallenge.org/comparison-best-bivi-bags. Bear in mind that a dog’s claws may rip thin material, so choose a durable bag for your canine buddy.

Harpo tends to curl up so that his body is in the bag and his head is sticking out, and if there’s livestock or wildlife that might wander close, I’ll keep his lead on overnight, looped around my wrist. You could also make your own dog-sized bivvy bag - a huge range of outdoor fabrics, zips and buckles are available from Pennine Outdoor (pennineoutdoor.co.uk)

In addition, I carry a brilliant Hurtta Ultimate Warmer dog coat (muddypaws.co.uk/dog-coats-clothing/dog-coats/outdoors-ultimate-warmer-jacket) that is windproof, waterproof and breathable. As soon as I feel the need to put a hat and extra layer on, Harpo gets his coat, and sleeps in it inside the bivvy bag.

Specialist retailers like muddypaws.co.uk will advise on the kit that will suit you and your hound the best. The Ultimate Warmer coat is fantastic – designed to keep your dog’s chest, back and neck warm, it’s lightweight, adjustable, has high-visibility panels and openings to allow you to keep your dog on a lead or harness when he’s in the coat.

It’s also a good idea to know which elements of your first aid kit are dog-friendly. Wound-dressing principles apply equally to four- and two-legged campers, but some human medicines, Ibuprofen, for example, can be fatally toxic and should never be given. Talk to your vet, and if you’re going on an extended or remote trip it may be worth getting canine-specific painkillers.

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