Within a half-mile radius in downtown Manhattan, there are five matcha stores: MatchaBar, Matchaful, Cha Cha Matcha, the other Cha Cha Matcha and Matcha n’ More, which are each less than five minutes apart on foot.

Matcha, a kind of powdered green tea used in Japanese tea ceremonies, has become a popular drink in the wellness scene for its grassy green color and antioxidants. High-end cafes in SoHo like Matchaful blend it with nut milks or spices and sell it for $7, more than the cost of a latte.

At the same time, places that once catered to health-minded New Yorkers before wellness became a buzzword — spots like Souen, Integral Yoga Natural Foods and Angelica Kitchen — are closing. All three opened in the 1970s, when SoHo was home to an artistic and creative community.