Chris and Lakpa at Annapurna summit on May 1st, 2016. Photo: Chris Burke

Sharing a laugh together, before heading to Lhotse in 2013.

Climbers face a set of odd bureaucratic issues – some often repeated, others entirely novel – each year, when they come to Pakistan. The strategic location of Karakoram peaks makes the situation further adverse. These issues usually cost time and resources, but not the entire expedition. However, there has been an unprecedented development this year.Some of summer 2016 climbers have been denied entry into Pakistan. They’re said to be unofficially banned, since late last year. As often is the case with Pakistani bureaucracy, rationale behind this move remains uncertain. Interestingly, aforementioned climbers were issued climbing permits and visas over past few months.While, no reason for the ban has been officially communicated, climbers were told under the table that it is in someway related to use of Sherpa support, last summer.Australian-New Zealander Chris Jensen Burke , who as per ACP expeditions list is leader of a Broad Peak team, was one amongst the affected climbers. She decided to make the details public. “” she wrote.Chris Burke has been a regular visitor to Karakoram, since past few years. In 2013, she had just arrived in Pakistan when horrendous murder of 11 climbers took place at Diamir BC. While some climbers cancelled their expeditions, Chris went forth and climbed Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II. She attempted Broad Peak/K2 double header in 2014, and was successful on K2. Chris returned to Broad Peak in 2015, but it was difficult year and majority of teams remained unsuccessful.,” Chris commented about amount of work (paperwork, logistics etc) done for this year’s expedition and then being denied to enter Pakistan.Banning mountaineers due to use of Sherpa support, if true as stated, will not help the cause of attracting more climbers and development of tourism industry in the country. As mentioned in summer 2016 kickoff post , Sherpa presence have been on the rise in Pakistan since past few years. Nepalese operators and high altitude workers have a fair market share in Pakistan. Sherpa’s role has, in fact, been transformed from high altitude porters to high altitude mountain guides. Contrarily, the quantity and quality of Pakistani HAPs – the traditional counterparts of Sherpa in Karakoram and Western Himalaya – dwindled over the years.Senior members of Pakistani HAP community has been quite vocal about lack of government support. It has been hoped that the locals might actually learn technical skills and mental strength from Sherpa, and regain the market, like Nepalese are ousting Western operators today." Chris Burke has climbed nine eight thousanders so far; three of them in Pakistan.." She added.Talking about Chris Burke, her case is particularly different from an orthodox client-Sherpa relationship. She has climbed all of her nine 8000m peaks with Lakpa Sherpa. The two train and climb together, and are more like climbing partners than client-Sherpa." she emphasizes.