DOWNTOWN Seattle may have a Space Needle that pierces the clouds, a Monorail that whizzes above the streets and, most recently, the bloblike Experience Music Project designed by Frank Gehry. But until recently, it offered little else to draw Seattleites. The “real” Seattle was found along the city’s fringes, in neighborhoods like Fremont and Ballard, where cheap rents fostered artsy communities and cafe cultures. In recent years, however, a wave of new condominiums has sprouted near a waterfront once reserved for tchotchke shops selling “Sleepless in Seattle” T-shirts, bringing with it fashionable boutiques, trendy restaurants and gourmet shops. Now, the city center is starting to feel like a neighborhood again, and not just a backdrop for a Space Needle snapshot.

Friday

4 p.m.

1) BIRD ON THE BAY

Seattle’s waterfront was once known as Skid Road, but the historic district has burst to life with gorgeously restored buildings, cute boutiques and inviting cafes. The newest addition is the Olympic Sculpture Park (2901 Western Avenue, 206-654-3100; www.seattleartmuseum.org), a former industrial blight converted by the Seattle Art Museum last year into a nine-acre gallery along Elliott Bay. For great people-watching — joggers and dog walkers love it there — find the row of deck chairs under Alexander Calder’s spiderlike sculpture, “Eagle.” When it’s clear, a rarity this time of year, you can see the saw-toothed Olympic Mountains to the west.

7 p.m.

2) FOIE GRAS AND FLANNEL

It may be after hours, and the neon signs advertising fresh fish may illuminate puddles of melted ice, but the Pike Place Market now draws a buzzing dinner crowd, thanks to Matt’s in the Market (94 Pike Street, Suite 32, 206-467-7909; www.mattsinthemarket.com), a cozy bistro that builds its menu around the daily plenty. Last year, Matt’s expanded its closetlike space to seat 59 people and include a petite bar. For postcard views, ask for one of the tables under the arched windows overlooking the iconic “Public Market” sign. If that doesn’t say Seattle, the fact that the kitchen staff is better dressed than most of the patrons should. Fall menu highlights include the smoked pork belly with huckleberries ($12) and Alaskan halibut in a broth of heirloom tomatoes and clams ($30).

9 p.m.

3) MIX MASTER

He may be something of a minor celebrity, but Murray Stenson, the mixologist at Zig Zag Café (1501 Western Avenue, No. 202, 206-625-1146; www.zigzagseattle.com) didn’t get there by being flashy. Squeeze into one of the booths of this secluded lounge behind Pike Place Market, and ask Mr. Stenson to mix you one of his favorites. You can’t go wrong with the Diablo — tequila, cassis, lime and ginger ale ($8.25) — or a classic martini made with Aviation Gin, which is distilled in Oregon ($9.50).