Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

In 1788, British trader John Meares sailed along the Pacific Coast, searching – as so many European explorers did – for the mouth of a great river. He arrived at a promising spot, previously discovered by Bruno Heceta, but confidently determined it was only a bay, dubbing the site Cape Disappointment.



Of course, Meares was in fact staring at the mouth of the mighty Columbia River. The cape he considered a letdown went on to become a place of great historical significance, and today is the site of a sprawling Washington State Park, where visitors can explore trails, beaches and two lighthouses built on the cliffs above the ocean.

Like Fort Stevens on the Oregon side of the river, Cape Disappointment has a wealth of diverse attractions. It's a place where hikers, campers, cyclists, fishers, photographers and history buffs can all find something to love, making it easy to spend a few days discovering all the nooks and crannies of the park.



Meares may have been disappointed in the headland, but people now revere the coastal playground that’s steeped in Northwest history. That Cape Disappointment is far from disappointing is an irony not lost on any who visit.

READ MORE: The 20 best state parks in Oregon

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CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT LIGHTHOUSE

As the Columbia River became an important resource for the burgeoning cities of the Pacific Northwest, a lighthouse was needed to keep ships safe as they entered a spot that became known as the “graveyard of the Pacific.” The Cape Disappointment Lighthouse was lit in 1856, becoming the eighth active light on the west coast. Today, the inside of lighthouse is closed to the public, but a short, forested trail from a parking lot leads to the historic structure.

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NORTH HEAD LIGHTHOUSE

The North Head Lighthouse was lit in 1898, to add an additional beacon on the north side of the cape. While usually open to the public, portions of the lighthouse have been closed on and off in recent years to restore the historic structure, a project that will extend until (and possibly after) July, 2019. The lighthouse is found at the end of a short, paved pathway that begins at a parking lot, or via the North Head Trail.

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WAIKIKI BEACH

A favorite beach spot in the summer and a popular storm watching site in the winter, Cape Disappointment's Waikiki Beach might be small, but it's one of the most beautiful day-use areas in the park. To the east is a forested cliff and the silhouette of the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse. To the west are the beginnings of the North Jetty on the Columbia River. Big storms are known to wash huge pieces of driftwood onto the beach and into the parking lot, but that doesn't stop groups of photographers from showing up to get a look at the dramatic waves.

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BENSON BEACH

Benson Beach runs along the western edge of Cape Disappointment, accessible through the campground or from the parking lot at the North Jetty. The beach is long, but fairly narrow, the victim of recent erosion that has already claimed 10 oceanfront campsites, a barrier dune and many trees. Piles of driftwood fill the eroded beach, leaving little room to lounge on the sand. The view looking north is a stunner, with the North Head Lighthouse lording over the scene.

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HIKING TRAILS

Cape Disappointment isn't as well known for its hiking, but the park is home to a small network of trails, including paths that lead to the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse, through a coastal forest and around the main campground to the beach. The North Head Hike is the park's most substantial, running 4 miles round-trip to the North Head Lighthouse and McKenzie Head, the site of a World War II artillery battery.

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DISCOVERY TRAIL

Cyclists can explore a northern segment of Cape Disappointment by starting in Long Beach, biking along the 7-mile Discovery Trail that crosses into the park. The mostly flat, paved pathway begins at 26th St. N.W. in Long Beach, snaking along the beach and by the boardwalk until it enters the park near Beard's Hollow. From there, you can either continue onto the park's main roads to the North Head Lighthouse, or cross a wooden bridge that passes through the woods before exiting at the streets of Ilwaco. Hikers are also welcome on the trail.

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CAMPGROUND

There are 227 campsites at Cape Disappointment, including 14 yurts, three cabins and a small hiker/biker camp. Most campsites are found near Benson Beach, but one cluster is built on the shores of McKenzie Lagoon.

Rates range from $20 to $50 for campsites, $59 to $69 for yurts and cabins, depending on the sites and season; book online at parks.state.wa.us.

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LIGHTHOUSE KEEPER’S RESIDENCES

A cabin is nice, but the real luxury is staying in one of two historic lighthouse keeper's residences in the park. The two century-old buildings rent separately, each accommodating up to six people. Each home has a full kitchen, modern appliances and a furnished living room, with views overlooking the ocean near the North Head Lighthouse.



Lighthouse keeper's residences cost between $154 and $437 per night, depending on the day and season. Rent one online at parks.state.wa.us.

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LEWIS AND CLARK INTERPRETIVE CENTER

Lewis and Clark first reached the Pacific Ocean at Cape Disappointment in November, 1805, and now more than 200 years later, their accomplishment is kept alive at the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center in the park. The explorers’ continental journey and subsequent arrival at the ocean the primary focus of the interpretive museum.

The interpretive center is open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., daily from April 1 to October 31, and Wednesday through Sunday from November 1 to March 31; admission is $5 for adults and $2.50 for kids and teenagers.

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MILITARY BATTERIES

The ruins of two World War II artillery batteries can be found at Cape Disappointment, both fascinating – albeit creepy – historical landmarks. Battery 247 is found at the top of McKenzie Head, where hikers can walk through the old concrete tunnels and see rings that once held huge rifles. Battery Harvey Allen is located at the interpretive center, where visitors will find three gun mounts as well as shell and powder rooms.

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--Jamie Hale | jhale@oregonian.com | @HaleJamesB