Getting Started Making Biodiesel

by Graydon Blair of Utah Biodiesel Supply INTRODUCTION

Welcome to our Getting Started page! We've packed this page with everything you'll need to know from A to Z to get you started making Biodiesel. When you make your own fuel, you not only get the benefits of running biodiesel, but you get the savings benefits of making it yourself. In many cases, when produced from oil obtained for free, Biodiesel really can be produced for under $1.00 a gallon. This page will give you the basics of what it takes to make Biodiesel as well as give you some great resources for getting started. Soon, you could be making fuel for next to nothing and enjoying the great benefits of producing and using your own fuel. So, let's get started! To make things easy, we've grouped the page into the sections listed below. As you read through the page, you'll see links that say

BACK TO TOP. If you click on them, it'll bring you back to the top of the page allowing you to jump quickly from section to section. Be Sure To Also Check Out Our Tutorial Videos! Also, after you've read through this article, be sure to visit our Biodiesel Tutorial Page to learn more about Biodiesel and how to make it.



Click Here To See The Video Tutorial Page Also, after you've read through this article, be sure to visit our Biodiesel Tutorial Page to learn more about Biodiesel and how to make it.

WHAT IS BIODIESEL

To begin, let's first talk about what Biodiesel is: Biodiesel is a replacement for diesel fuel that can be used in most diesel engines. It has properties that allow it to burn and perform similar to diesel fuel making it an ideal replacement to petroleum based diesel fuel. Biodiesel can be made from plant oils such as soybean oil, canola oil, cottonseed oil, and others or from animal fats such as beef or chicken tallow or pork lard. It can also be made from used fryer oil that's discarded by restaurants as a waste product; which is what we'll be focusing on. So, yes, that really means you can make fuel out of what restaurants consider to be garbage! I tend to think of it as liquid gold...and soon you may think the same as well! Because Biodiesel can be used as a direct replacement for diesel fuel in most diesel powered vehicles, this means that you can make Biodiesel yourself at a fraction of the cost per gallon of what you would normally pay for diesel fuel! In fact, in most cases people are producing their own Biodiesel for less than a $1.50 per gallon! Not bad eh?

Learn More About What Biodiesel Is Here

How We Collect Oil

Here at Utah Biodiesel Supply we collect so much oil that we needed to upgrade to something a little more "industrial-grade" to make collecting quicker and easier. To do this, we bought a lift-gate, threw it on the back of a pickup, and now we collect oil by swapping out full barrels of oil for empty ones. We seal the barrels with barrel rings and try to collect them when they're about half-full. One day I took a camera along so we could show everyone how we do it. You can check it out here. Click here to see how we collect oil For more information on collecting waste oil, click on these great articles below:

Collecting Oil 101 - Tips & Tricks Murphys Machines Guide To Collecting Oil

Collaborative Tutorial Guide On Negotiating For Oil

Reducing Acid Level

If the oil you obtain contains a high free fatty acid level, then you may want to consider reducing the acid level in the oil before using it to make Biodiesel with. Making Biodiesel from high free fatty acid feedstock can be done, but it's kind of a pain. The reason is because you end up using so much extra catalyst that by the time you have Biodiesel, you'll also have a lot of soap to deal with. Soap is the by-product that comes from neutralizing the acid with a strong base. It's just not fun to deal with. If the oil you obtain contains a high free fatty acid level, then you may want to consider reducing the acid level in the oil before using it to make Biodiesel with. Making Biodiesel from high free fatty acid feedstock can be done, but it's kind of a pain. The reason is because you end up using so much extra catalyst that by the time you have Biodiesel, you'll also have a lot of soap to deal with. Soap is the by-product that comes from neutralizing the acid with a strong base. It's just not fun to deal with. Reducing the acid content can be done several ways.

Here's two effective methods that we're aware of. Caustic Stripping

This involves dissolving some of the strong base (either Sodium or Potassium Hydroxide) into water and then adding the mixture to the oil. This will cause the free fatty acids in the oil to bind to the strong base and form soap. The soap is then removed from the oil, the oil is dewatered, and then can be used to make Biodiesel with. This method, while effective, will decrease the yield of Biodiesel you'll obtain from it because a portion of the oil gets converted into soap. While we at Utah Biodiesel Supply have never used caustic stripping as a means of reducing free fatty acids, we know that it can be done and is effective. We just prefer to use the second method. For more information on Caustic Stripping, we recommend the following:

Article on Caustic Stripping Rick of B100 Supply wrote this great thread

Infopop Search Searched for Caustic Stripping at the Infopop Biodiesel Forum

Google Search This links to a Google search using biodiesel and caustic stripping as key words.

Acid Esterification

This method uses sulfuric acid to modify the free fatty acids (FFA's) in the oil so that they can still be made into Biodiesel. It's the preferred method to use among biodieselers when dealing with high free fatty acid oil. The reason it's preferred is because instead of converting the FFA's into soap like caustic stripping does, it actually modifies the acid chains and allows them to be converted into Biodiesel. This means that the yield won't suffer as much as it does in caustic stripping. This method uses sulfuric acid to modify the free fatty acids (FFA's) in the oil so that they can still be made into Biodiesel. It's the preferred method to use among biodieselers when dealing with high free fatty acid oil. The reason it's preferred is because instead of converting the FFA's into soap like caustic stripping does, it actually modifies the acid chains and allows them to be converted into Biodiesel. This means that the yield won't suffer as much as it does in caustic stripping. There are several recipes for performing acid esterification, but the one most commonly used is to use 1 mL of sulfuric acid for every liter of oil you have. For instance, if you have 190 liters of oil, you'd use 190 mL of sulfuric acid. While this method works extremely well, it's important that the oil be extremely dry before using this method. If it's not dry the sulfuric acid will react with the water istead and the reaction won't occur as readily. It's also important that the sulfuric acid be highly concentrated; usually 95% pure or better is recommended. This is the method that our automated BioPro processors utilize to handle high free fatty acid oil. We've seen it work extremely well. We've been able to make Biodiesel from some pretty nasty oil using this method and have become extremly impressed with how well it will work. There are some downsides to using acid esterification. The biggest downside is that it takes more time for the reaction to occur. In fact, most people that attempt to do it typically don't wait long enough for the reaction to work and run into problems. When using this method plan on adding at least 6-8 hours of additional reaction time for the esterification process to work right. Keep the oil as dry as possible, use only highly concentrated sulfuric acid, and give it enough time and you should see good results. Another important note on using this method. Be sure your equipment can handle sulfuric acid. Black steel and sulfuric acid don't like each other. They can get along in diluted quantities for a while (1 mL to 1 liter is somewhat diluted) but it's not recommended. For more information on using this method, we highly recommend our sulfuric acid biodiesel tutorial article!. Click here to go directly to the article.

If Acid Esterification interests you, we carry Sulfuric Acid in a couple different sizes.

Click here to see our selection.

LEGAL STUFF (you must agree to this before proceeding)

By reading the rest of this article, you hereby absolve ('hold harmless') Utah Biodiesel Supply, MGBJ Enterprises, and any of it's employees or staff from any and all responsibility for any potential harm to person(s) or property that may result from the use or misuse (accidental or intentional) of this information. You understand that Methanol (Methyl-Alcohol), Sodium Hydroxide (Lye, NaOH), Potassium Hydroxide (Caustic Potash, KOH), and Sulfuric Acid (H2SO4) are highly corrosive chemical substances and may be dangerous or harmful if misused. You hereby accept full and sole responsibility for any potential harm to person(s) or property that may result from the use or misuse (accidental or intentional) of this information. If you don't agree with the above, discontinue reading this article and proceed no further. Still reading? Great! Now that we've got that out of the way we can proceed. While Biodiesel can be done in a safe manner, it's extremely important that you practice good safety techniques and watch what you're doing. You're dealing with some pretty dangerous chemicals and if you don't watch it you really can get hurt. Respect it for what it is, treat it safely, be cautious and prudent and things will probably go well. Below are two MUST READ guides on Biodiesel Safety.

Biodiesel Safety Article from the Collaborative Biodiesel Tutorial

Biodiesel Best Practices Excellent guide from Penn State on producing Biodiesel safely.



Here are some additional precautions we also recommend following:

PRECAUTIONS

1- You'll be dealing with some fairly caustic chemicals, an alcohol called Methanol, fair amounts of heat, and the transferring of flammable fluids from one container to container so it's a good idea to have a fire extinguisher around that is capable of putting out an oil based fire. 2- Biodiesel should always be made in a well-ventilated area away from children and pets with the proper safety equipment utilized. 3- Before making large batches of Biodiesel, check with your local municipality and fire marshall to ensure that any chemicals, alcohol, or other substances you will use are being stored and used within the proper laws and ordinances for your area. Some areas refer back to state and federal fire codes. It's always a good idea to check before you get started.

Click Here for some helpful tips on working with your local municipality & fire department 4- Using home made Biodiesel in a diesel engine vehicle may void your manufacturer's warranty. Although the steps outlined to make it are fairly bullet proof and have been tested in several thousands of vehicles all over the world, there's no guarantee your engine manufacturer will honor your warranty. 5- Biodiesel is considered a fuel so if you plan to use it in a vehicle for on-road use, it may be subject to taxes. Check with your state and federal taxing agencies if in question. 6- Biodiesel itself, when properly made, is actually quite safe. It's less toxic than table salt and degrades faster than sugar. It has a higher flash point (point at which it ignites) than regular petrodiesel and if spilled isn't considered toxic.

OK, with that out of the way, let's start discussing how to make Biodiesel. OK, with that out of the way, let's start discussing how to make Biodiesel. Below is the basic theory of what you'll be doing to produce it.



In really simple terms here's what happens:

1- Put your pre-treated oil in a processor

2- Heat the oil up to about 130-135 deg F (make sure your processor can handle the heat!)

3- Figure out how much catalyst (lye or caustic potash) you'll need (Titration)

4- Add the strong base (lye or caustic potash) to the methanol to make methoxide

5- Add the methoxide to the oil & mix it all up

6- Let it separate & pull off the glycerin

7- Wash it & dry it

8- Add it to the tank & drive on down the road! Here's the basic recipe

1- Start with a known amount of oil.

2- Oil Amount X 0.20 = Methanol required

3- Titrate Oil = Strong Base required

4- Mix Methanol & Strong Base together until fully dissolved

4- Heat oil to 130-135 ° F

5- Kill heat source & add methoxide to oil

6- Mix for 2 hours

7- Allow to sit for 18-24 hours

8- Drain off glycerin

9- Wash out excess contaminants

10- Remove any water by drying the Biodiesel

11- Add final product to diesel tank

12- Drive away! EXAMPLE:

1- Add 100 liters of oil to processor & turn on the heat

2- Measure out 20 liters of Methanol

3- Titrate oil using KOH as strong base

4- Assume a Titration of 3.

5- 3 + 7 = 10 grams per liter. 10 X 100 = 1,000 grams

4- Add 1,000 grams of KOH to the methanol

5- Allow the KOH to fully dissolve

6- Once the oil hits 130 deg F, kill the heat

7- Slowly add the KOH/Methanol mixture to the processor

8- Mix everything in the processor for at least 2 hours

9- After 2 hours, allow it to sit for 18-24 hours

10- After it's sat, drain off the glycerin

11- Transfer it to a wash tank

12- Wash and dry the Biodiesel

13- Once dry, add it to the fuel tank & drive away! For a great analogy of what is going on chemically during the reaction, Click Here! For more detailed information on making Biodiesel, visit the links below:

Make Biodiesel Website A great tutorial page on making biodiesel complete with plans for building biodiesel processing equipment.

Kitchen Biodiesel Explains the basisc of making a small batch.

Wikipedia Biodiesel Recipe Well written recipe for making a small batch of Biodiesel. I believe it's based off of Mike Pelly's recipe.

World Famous Dr. Pepper Method - Part 1 Part I of a recipe for making a small batch of Biodiesel in a Dr. Pepper bottle. Followed by many the first time they make biodiesel.

Dangerous Laboratories Great instructions for making a batch of Biodiesel for the first time. Complete with pictures and detailed instructions.

Infopop Biodiesel Forum Great place to post questions and learn about making Biodiesel.

Appleseed Biodiesel Instructions Instructions for making Biodiesel in a hot water heater.

To learn more about washing Biodiesel, be sure to visit these great sites:

Using A Standpipe Wash Tank Learn how to use a Biodiesel Standpipe Wash Tank!

Washing Biodiesel Great article from the Collaborative Biodiesel Tutorial.

Breaking Emulsions With Salt If you water wash, one day you'll make an emulsion. It's just gonna happen. Here's a quick way to break them! We stock a full supply of great Biodiesel Washing Devices. Everything from misters to complete wash tank kits and everything in between. We've even taken videos of each mister misting to show the different flow rates.





Click on any of the pictures above to see more information on a misting product.

Click Here to see more washing supplies.

DRYING BIODIESEL

If you use water to wash your Biodiesel, you'll need to dry it when you're done. Diesel engines REALLY HATE water in the fuel. It'll kill a fuel injector really fast and can corrode the fuel injection systems. It's just not pretty! If you use water to wash your Biodiesel, you'll need to dry it when you're done. Diesel engines REALLY HATE water in the fuel. It'll kill a fuel injector really fast and can corrode the fuel injection systems. It's just not pretty! So, now that you know you want to get rid of the water, let's talk about how it can be done. First off, there's a million different ways to dry Biodiesel. You'll find them scattered all over the internet if you look. For our purposes, we'll just discuss some of the more simple ways to do it. Use The Sun

One of the easiest ways to do it is to set your Biodiesel out in the hot sun & let mother nature work it's magic. If it's warm enough, the heat from the sun can help evaporate off all that water fairly quickly. When I first learned how to make Biodiesel, this is the method I was shown.



We'd stick 5 gallon buckets out in the hot sun with a screen over top of them & let the heat work it's magic. To see if it was done we'd point a laser at it & shine it down through the Biodiesel. If we could see the laser on the bottom of the 5 gallon drum we called it dry. Yep. Pretty simple. Pretty archaic & primitive. Probably not the best way to do it, but, it worked...at the time. Bubble Drying

Another method that's a little more effective than using the sun is to use air bubbles.



To do so, attach a bubbler to an air line, drop it into the biodiesel somewhat near the bottom and turn on the air. Then allow the air to bubble for at least 7-10 hours. Depending on ambient temperature and relative humidity in the room the biodiesel can dry fairly quickly. In order for this method to work well, it's important that the Biodiesel be kept warm. If using a Stand Pipe Wash Tank, an aquarium heater can be used to keep the temperature warm. We recommend keeping it at about 80-90 ° F while bubble drying. We stock a great Biodiesel Bubbling Kit as well as a Stainless Steel Aquarium Heater that can be used for bubble-washing.

Recirculatory Drying

Another extremely effective method of drying Biodiesel is to recirculate it on top of itself.





Essentially, you rig up a pump to pull the biodiesel from the bottom of the tank and spray it back on top of itself at the top of the tank. This works so well because you actually circulate the whole batch of Biodiesel several times. The moisture evaporates away as the biodiesel is circulated. For this to work well, it's important to be able to heat the Biodiesel up. Typically to temperatures above 80 to 90 ° F. Once the Biodiesel is hot, simply turn on the circulatory system and allow it to do its work. After just a few hours, the Biodiesel can be completely dried. For more details on how this can be done we recommend visiting the following

Drying Washed Biodiesel Article at the Collaborative Biodiesel Tutorial We carry a great nozzle designed to help dry Biodiesel in a circulatory system.



Click here for more information on this great drying nozzle.

Click here to see a video of this great nozzle in action. We also carry a complete oil drying tank kit!



CONCLUSION:

This concludes our Getting Started article on Biodiesel. We encourage you to read through our selection of other great articles on Biodiesel This concludes our Getting Started article on Biodiesel. We encourage you to read through our selection of other great articles on Biodiesel Additional Utah Biodiesel Supply Articles

Why Biodiesel? addresses why we believe Biodiesel is such a great alternative to petro diesel

Basics of Biodiesel explains the background of Biodiesel production including some of the chemistry

How Its Made shows the basic theory of how Biodiesel can be produced

Titrating Oil gives an overview of what a titration is and how it can be performed

Using Biodiesel discusses how easy it is to use Biodiesel as a replacement for petro-diesel.