Key Sublime from Barrel Theory Beer Company: This brand-spanking-new brewery, on East Seventh Street in Lowertown, is already putting out a stable of such solid beers that I had a hard time choosing one this week.

However, there is one beer I kept returning to, a beer that’s so interesting, so quaffable, so unlike a beer in many ways that it might be a little controversial. But controversy be damned, I love key lime pie, and this puckery, fruited Berliner Weisse tastes just like it, down to a hint of a graham cracker crust that comes from to a touch of bourbon vanilla and some Vietnamese cinnamon.

It’s a thoughtful, fantastic brew. In fact, the whole opening lineup is great. Barrel Theory won’t be distributing its beer outside of a few kegs to bars and restaurants here and there, and the only place to get its beers right now is in the taproom.

International Bittering Units (IBU): NA; Alcohol by Volume (ABV): 4 percent

Barrel Theory Beer Company: 248 E. 7th St., St. Paul; 651-600-3422; barreltheory.com