Across India, the egg occupies an interesting position. Not meaty enough to be considered meat but not vegetal enough for everyone to agree that it’s vegetarian. “Eggs seem to fall in some odd limbo,” Doctor said. And the irresistible mythology of eggs Kejriwal relies on that limbo. Kejriwal, the club member, was a vegetarian. He also belonged to India’s Marwari community, who traditionally don’t eat eggs, and while he did not want to be seen out and about eating them, cheese was just fine. So kitchens hid eggs for him under cover of cheese and chiles.

You could be true to the original, but being true to the original is overrated. And if you put the egg down first on the toast, then in an effort to thoroughly melt the cheese on top of it, you may accidentally cook the yolk through. It’s better if it runs. So instead, I smear the toasted bread with mustard, mix grated Cheddar with a little chopped red onion, green chiles and cilantro, and leave it all under the noisy, clacking broiler at the bottom of my oven. After a couple of minutes, the cheese is melted and just starting to bubble, and the edges of the toast are even more browned. I could stop here, I know, and sit down with a perfectly good chile-cheese toast, but that’s what I used to do before I knew about eggs Kejriwal. There is no going back.