Men’s Fashion Week in Milan is so weighted toward established brands that the youngbloods either risk being dismissed or benefit from a groundswell of buzz. Sunnei falls into the latter category, largely because it doesn’t feel boxed into any existing ideas of Italian style. If anything, the “Let’s go to sleep in Paris, wake up in Tokyo” refrain on a track by rapper Lupe Fiasco gives a better idea of a nonchalant cool that smoothly swerves between slouch and finesse.

This was the second runway show from Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, who reportedly considered launching a startup before conceiving Sunnei in 2014. Its name, an Italianization of sunny, has self-determined its carefree vision. To hear the designers discuss the clothes is to realize that they don’t overintellectualize design; yet the top-to-bottom knitwear outfit, the inside-out denim of relaxed-fit pants, and the cord-stop drawstring waist on the trousers of an ample double-breasted suit suggest they take a “think different” approach to the basics. Increasingly known for their thickly striped shirts, they pushed the idea to the max with a total look—cheeky, maybe, but who wouldn’t like the idea of tossing a bomber over pajamas and looking properly dressed (add a pair of sunglasses, made in collaboration with Retrosuperfuture, to complete the morning-after vibe). The all-purpose footwear design—shown as high-tops and slingbacks—conveyed a similar after-party–to–poolside appeal. In short, refreshing stuff that has the potential to sell well.

Asked whether they view Sunnei as Milanese, Rizzo offered, “I think now’s the time to stop thinking about Made in Italy in such a traditional way; maybe it’s about innovation and showing more relaxed, younger things.” Their idea of city pride: a T-shirt boasting a photo of the Brutalist Torre Velasca, Milan’s iconic mushroom-shaped tower.