The 18th century tomb of Janab-e-Alia, the Hindu wife of Nawab Shuja-ud-Daula, near Golaganj vegetable market ... Read More

LUCKNOW: A narrow, winding passage near the Golaganj vegetable market leads to a nearly obscure royal edifice — the tomb of Janab-e-Alia, the Hindu wife of Nawab of Awadh Shuja-ud-Daula — which is now but a crumbling structure.

On the eve of Bada Mangal, TOI revisited the 18th century maqbara (grave) of Begum Alia (her maiden name Chhattar Kanwal) who is believed to have been instrumental in the construction of the Naya Hanuman Temple in Aliganj .

If one looks closely at the magnificent craftsmanship of the tomb, which was raised by Alia’s son Nawab Saadat Ali Khan, there is no doubt it was once an important part of Lucknow’s identity.

Engraved with verses from the Quran, the tomb comprises a basement, a floor with the Begum’s grave, an upper floor with a non-pivotal cenotaph and the top floor with a cluster of cupolas and dome. It is the only structure in the country with a turban-shaped dome, better known as the pagdar dome.

But, neglect over the years has left the mausoleum in bad shape. Creepers have taken over the structure, defacement is rife and unabated encroachment is sounding the death knell.

“Forty years ago, this octagonal monument was visible from all sides. Like any other in the city, it is made of Lakhauri bricks, lime-mortar and stones. Though it is a protected site under the Archaeological Survey of India (Lucknow circle), squatters are damaging the last vestiges of a Nawabi era,” rued historian Yogesh Praveen.

The nearly 350-year-old Hanuman temple in Aliganj was constructed by Alia after her wish for a child was fulfilled. According to a booklet published by temple trustees, the Begum was blessed with a son and she dreamt of a divine presence commanding her to build the shrine in honour of Hanuman.

The dream, says the booklet, even pointed her to a specific site in Aliganj where an idol of Hanuman was buried. The Begum ordered an excavation, found the idol and paraded it on an elephant with much fanfare.

Legend has it that the elephant dropped anchor at a particular place in Aliganj and refused to budge. The temple was erected on the same spot. The tradition of celebrating Bada Mangal and organising a fair started around that time and continues till date. An inscription on the temple premises states that the place of worship was built in its present form by trader Lala Jatmal in 1783 AD.

