By Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

New Jersey is a barbecue wasteland, I wrote four years ago.

"Can you find good barbecue in this state?" I asked then. "Sure, but you really have to search high and low."

Three years ago, I updated my best BBQ in N.J. list and said there were "signs of hope." Two years ago, in another update (I hit 14 new or previously unvisited places), my conclusion: "Things really aren't any better."

Last year, having visited eight more previously unvisited spots? "N.J. is still a barbecue barrens, and things are about the same. And that's not good," I wrote.

This year, after driving 1,200 miles and visiting 17 previously unvisited spots, my report: The barbecue big picture is about the same. Several promising newcomers made the current list, but I'll be blunt: I had some seriously bad barbecue on my latest road trip, including the worst rack of ribs I've had in my life.

There are certainly more BBQ spots in New Jersey than, say, 10 years ago. Unfortunately, too many are average or subpar, churning out underwhelming, overcooked, oversauced, overhyped barbecue.

So here's my latest list of the best BBQ joints in New Jersey. I have visited every single one; no one makes it into my food lists based on rep, Yelp reviews or Facebook likes. I'm talking Southern barbecue here — not Portuguese or any other kind. The BBQ joints here are not ranked.

Have a favorite BBQ place? Let us know in the comments section.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Macona, Collingswood

Cory and Natalie Reuss, owners of Macona, met in Austin, and those Texans know a thing or two about barbecue. A smoker is stationed behind the restaurant, and the interior is enlivened by a wild, wooly mural — a cleaver-wielding chef chasing some not-so-merry little pigs, including one on a skateboard. "New Jersey" is written in large script on the wall, and a sign proclaims: Fact BBQ is Delicious.

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The pulled pork and brisket sandwiches (photo) at Macona are loaded and luscious, the former topped with a standout picante slaw, the latter with more traditional coleslaw. The ribs are pleasantly charred. Add Macona to Collingswood's already shining dining scene.

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The Real Deal, Clinton Township

I've stopped several times at the Real Deal in the past few years during their regular operating hours, and they were never open. Last week, they were, and hallelujah. It's a couple guys working inside a cramped trailer, and orders are written down in a large notebook. Be patient; good BBQ takes time. They are open 11 a.m.- 6 p.m. Wednesdays through Saturdays "or until sold out." It's located on Route 31 North at Buffalo Hollow Road by Spruce Run Reservoir.

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Look at that pulled pork sandwich from the Real Deal in the photo. It just screams deliciousness. Tender, juicy, simply constructed, it's the best pulled pork sandwich I've had in years. The brisket is equally good. And the cooked-just-right ribs are slathered in a vinegary sauce. This roadside trailer truly is the real deal.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Bobcats Texas BBQ, Ramsey

"Bobcat" was the nickname for Lisa Johnson's father; she grew up in Sealy, Texas. The family barbecues, captained by Bobcat, were a special event. Lisa's mom, Helen, made the sides and her Aunt Red made the desserts, including sweet potato, dewberry and pecan pies. Lisa eventually moved east and opened Bobcats. "I'm a country gal serving 100% Texas barbecue," she says.

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The brisket sandwich at Bobcats (at rear in photo) is the bomb — fat, bursting with juicy meat and burnt ends. The pulled pork sandwich (left in photo) is nearly as memorable, and the ribs are finger-lickin' good. Nice spry BBQ sauce, and fresh, crunchy coleslaw.

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Christine's House of Kingfish, Shamong

The Kingfish was a late legendary pit master who ran an open-air BBQ stand on Route 40 for many years. He was the subject of a chapter, ''The King of Route 40," in my first book, "Roadside New Jersey." Christine's House of Kingfish on Route 206 in Shamong is named after his wife. They're open Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only, year-round. Check out a clipping on the wall of a Munchmobile report from our daylong BBQ trip about 10 years back.

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The pulled pork and pulled chicken sandwiches at Christine's, interestingly enough, are served in huge pitas. The half rack (photo) is maybe the biggest I've ever seen — 13 fat, meaty ribs with a strong, smoky flavor.

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Hambone Opera, Lawrenceville

A farmers market may be the last place you'd look for killer 'cue, but that's where Hambone Opera is, wedged in among produce stands, butchers and bakers.

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Hambone Opera's pulled pork — supremely succulent — is among the best I have sampled on my BBQ journeys, and the brisket oozed fatty goodness. Also loved the spicy, vinegary BBQ sauce. The ribs are in the photo.

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322 BBQ, Mullica Hill

322 BBQ is part of David & Sons, headquartered inside the old mill in Mullica Hill. There are tables at an outside deck. The David & Sons menu also includes lobster rolls, steak sandwiches, burgers, a mac-n-cheese burrito, fish-n-chips and a blackened grouper sandwich.

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Undecided at 322 BBQ? Try the Big Momma combo (in photo); it includes a 1/3 rack of ribs, 1/3 pound pulled pork, 1/3 pound brisket and two sides. At $29.99, it may seem pricey, but this is quality 'cue.

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Red White & Que, Kearny

Red White & Que was my best BBQ newcomer of 2016, a pint-sized place stashed on a largely residential street. The Kearny location is now the only location of Red White & Que; last year, the original owners split with their business partners, who have renamed three previous NJ RWQ locations American Heroes Smokehouse.

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At RWQ, takeout meats are securely wrapped in butcher paper, and the ribs deftly manage the high-wire act of tender, smoky and juicy. One must-try: the uber-thick, joltingly juicy brisket sandwich; it's one of my favorite sandwiches of any kind in the past few years.

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Smoke BBQ, Audubon

Smoke BBQ is an N.J. barbecue newcomer, opening a year and a half ago in the former Crux Cafe. The counter man (who turned out to be owner Aaron Clark's dad) couldn't have been more helpful (on missions like this I don't identify myself), providing the lowdown on each sauce.

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And the sauces at Smoke are super — habanero, ghost pepper, Carolina and espresso, among others. It's the best barbecue sauce lineup in N.J. The brisket sandwich is in the photo.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Big Harlie's BBQ, Sayreville

Good ribs and pulled pork at Big Harlie's, but the star here is the beef brisket burnt ends (photo): juicy, charred, fatty pieces of perfection.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Here are those burnt ends at Harlie's. Sooo good, practically life-changing.

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Either be about it or not! At the End you will see the difference! Posted by Big Papa Smokem Gourmet BBQ on Wednesday, December 5, 2018

Big Papa Smoke'm

Formerly found in a Chatham chicken joint, Big Papa Smoke'm worked out of a storefront in Bogota until recently. He now offers his BBQ from his food trucks and is scouting for a bigger location.

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Big Papa's ribs are smoky-good; you might want to get the sauce on the side. Brisket is thin-sliced but thick with flavor.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Back Alley Barbecue, Pennsauken

Nothing warms my heart more than a smoker by the side of the road. One stands proudly outside Back Alley Barbecue. Owner Ron Jones ran a BBQ stand inside Columbus Farmers Market, relocating to Pennsauken last June. The menu is written in colorful chalk on the wall, and there's a back dining room.

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The ribs (photo) at Back Alley Barbecue are meaty, monstrous and marvelous, and the chicken and brisket sandwiches are packed with meat. The sides are generous if not gigantic; try the mac-n-cheese and coleslaw. You won't walk away hungry here.

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Local Smoke, Neptune

Casual, diner-like atmosphere, but those trophies are proof the folks at Local Smoke know their 'cue. They won the New Jersey State Barbecue Championship overall title in 2009, 2011 and 2013. Try the ribs, the terrific barbecue chicken, or chopped brisket. My favorite side: the fried mac-n-cheese bites. There are also locations in Cookstown, Red Bank and Seaside Heights.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Lumpy's BBQ, Clementon

I'm not sure I'd choose Lumpy's as the name of my first restaurant, but the owners can call it anything as long as they keep cranking out top-notch 'cue. The dry-rub ribs rock — the meat is tender, pinkish and juicy — and the sweet potatoes are highly recommended. Next time I'll try the Smokin' Chili, with brisket, diced jalapenos, tomatoes, onions and kidney beans.

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Piggy's Deli, Mansfield

Sides are an important part of the barbecue experience. Good ribs or brisket and bad potato salad or mac-n-cheese can sour any meal. Which bring us to the coleslaw at Piggy's: uber-creamy, tart/vinegary and pretty close to a home run. The brisket was dried out, but the ribs rescued the day. The pork is hickory-smoked, the chicken cherry-smoked.

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Bill's BBQ, Franklinville

Another smoker, and a serious one at that, by the side of the road. "We will cook the swine, rain or shine" is the slogan at Bill's BBQ, a roadside stop just east of the Purple Penguin ice cream stand. He's open Friday-Sunday, and plans to open a sit-down restaurant on the property in a year or two. Good meaty ribs (choice of baby back or St. Louis), and his hot sauce, packed with passion and fire, is a must.

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Back Bay Barbecue, Egg Harbor Township

Back Bay is a back-road BBQ joint with a nice little outside patio. It's not in Somers Point, as the website says, but in Egg Harbor Township.

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And Back Bay has maybe the best dry-rubbed ribs (photo) I've eaten in the past four, five years.

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OUR SMOKE.....YOUR JOINT!!! Planning a celebration? Let Brother Bear make it unforgettable. We’ll create a custom menu... Posted by Brother Bear's BBQ & Catering on Thursday, March 2, 2017

Brother Bear's BBQ, Chesilhurst

Brother Bear's is one of my favorite food trucks, parked along the White Horse Pike and a frequent sight at festivals and special events. Good ribs, sides, sandwiches, and try the Amish potato salad.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Kimchi Smoke BBQ Shack, Westwood

Yes, Kimchi Smoke is a Korean BBQ restaurant, but owner Rob Cho (photo) makes a mean Southern brisket that's melt-in-your-mouth good. The pulled pork sandwich does some barbecue fusion with its combo of pork shoulder, Fatboy BCS (bourbon chipotle sauce) and Korean slaw. Also try the Korean Redneck Tacos, with pulled pork, Fatboy BCS and Korean slaw on flour tortillas. Quite tasty.

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Henri's Hotts Barbecue, Folsom

My most embarrassing food moment of the past few years happened at Henri's Hotts Barbecue, when I asked for all white meat on my whole fried chicken here. "Sir, there's no such thing as all white meat on a whole chicken," the owner said, harumphing. "When you find it, let me know." My excuse: It was the end of a long day, and I had done a lot of eating and driving.

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Excellent ribs at Henri's Hotts, the pulled pork here is the real deal, and the sides may be the heftiest of any BBQ joint in the state. And that fried chicken is the best I've had in a long while.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

More than Q, Lambertville

Red White and Que won my best BBQ newcomer award for 2016; More Than Q earned that award for 2017. Pitmaster Matt Martin operated at the Stockton Farmers Market for four years. The cozy, inviting Lambertville location opened late 2016.

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The brisket sandwich at More Than Q — mine was topped with house pickles and sweet peppers — may have been the best sandwich I had in 2017. The ribs, fat and juicy, are pleasantly charred, and the only proof you'll need that standout BBQ should not ever fall off the damn bone.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Oink and Moo BBQ, Voorhees

Oink and Moo BBQ is one of the state's best known food trucks, and they were voted the nation's best food truck by the Daily Meal in 2016. Now they have two storefronts — in Voorhees and Hampton, just north of Clinton. You won't find regular-sized brisket and pulled pork sandwiches there, but you will find outstanding brisket and pork sliders (photo), loaded with meat, packed with flavor. The ribs are good, but they take a back seat to those sliders.

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John Munson I The Star-Ledger

Fink's BBQ Smokehouse, Dumont

Fink's BBQ Smokehouse is a barbecue roadhouse with a kickin' soundtrack and smoky, charred ribs, seasoned with sass. Check out the creative specials (wild boar chili, the Flying Pig Gumbo, etc.) and the killer desserts.

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Jersey Shore BBQ, Belmar

Jersey Shore BBQ owner Doug Walsh lived 10 years in Texas, where he entered BBQ competitions. Love the dry-rubbed ribs here. Super sides: the ranch beans and hand-cut fries.

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Noah K. Murray I The Star-Ledger

A rack of ribs from Jersey Shore BBQ are in the photo. Don't sleep on the wings, pleasingly plump, with their standout sauces. There's another, newer, location in East Brunswick.

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Today's Homemade Desserts: Award Winning Banana Pudding, Sweet Potato Pie, Pecan Pie, Lemon Pound Cake, Chocolate Pound Cake! #sweettooth #justlikemommadeit #sugarpuddinsribsandmore Posted by Sugarpuddin's Ribs and More on Sunday, November 25, 2018

Sugarpuddin's Ribs and More, Lindenwold

Talk about a good start at Sugarpuddin's. The friendly woman behind the counter said I must try some of the sides since it was my first time there. "The best ribs this side of Missouri" is the slogan here.

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At Sugarpuddin's, the beans — at least three kinds in a smoky, slightly sweet sauce — are rockin'. The ribs are fat and juicy. The brisket and pulled pork are solid, but next time I'll tell them to hold the sauce; I don't want my pulled pork drenched in the stuff.

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Get ready for burger night! 🍔🍟🍺 . . . #burgers #burgernight #fries #frenchfries #surf #surfbbq #surfrumson #redbank #rumson #goodeats #food #bbq #njbbq #bestbbq #bestburger #bestburgers #monmouthcounty Posted by Surf NJ on Wednesday, April 17, 2019

Surf NJ, Rumson

Rumson as a BBQ destination? You betcha. Surf, in the former Molly Maguire's, opened about three years ago; it's owned by Victor Rallo, who also owns Undici in Rumson and Birravino in Red Bank.

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At Surf, don't even think about not ordering the mac-n-cheese; it oozes creamy goodness. The ribs are cooked a bit too much, but the pulled pork and brisket sandwiches are dynamite. There's a handy side entrance for takeout.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Whole Hog Cafe, Medford

The owners of Whole Hog Cafe competed as the Southern Gentlemen's Culinary Society before opening their first location, in Arkansas, in 2000. Skip the brisket and order the tender, meaty ribs. Good potato salad, and the BBQ sauces feature a range of spices, heat and personality. There is another location in Cherry Hill.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Uncle Googleberrys BBQ, West Amwell

It may be a silly name, and a curious location, but the husband-wife team behind Uncle Googleberry's BBQ know what they're doing. The BBQ joint is located at the north end of the Golden Nugget Antique Flea Market just south of Lambertville.

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First, let me talk about the sauces at Uncle Googleberry's (photo). The Virginia hot sauce is an attention-getting blend of apple cider vinegar and red pepper flakes, among other ingredients. I also liked the sweet and spicy, and Carolina sauces. You get your choice of brisket — "thin" or "moist." The latter is good and juicy. The baked beans are smoky and piping hot. Good ribs, but the pulled pork is the winner here — monstrous, meaty, tender.

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Texas Smoke BBQ, Jefferson

Texas Smoke's owner underwent a BBQ apprenticeship in Texas, eventually opening a Rockaway location in 2009. The BBQ joint is now on Route 15 in Jefferson.

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I generally order pulled pork and brisket with sauce on the side; I don't want the meat gunked with the stuff, and besides, that meat should be good enough to stand on its own. The pulled pork at Texas Smoke is juicy and fatty, the brisket (photo) even more so. I put the photo on Twitter, and received some backlash from folks who abhor fatty, juicy brisket. To those folks I say: This is the way I like it. Leave me alone.

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Bill's BBQ Shack, Bayville

Bill's BBQ Shack has gone through a legion of iterations. It was formerly C.B. Huntington's, the Bayville Inn and a half dozen other places over the years. Bill's includes a spacious bar/restaurant, outdoor bar, and an arcade and games for kids, Next door is Blackbeard's Cave miniature golf.

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The brisket at Bill's BBQ Shack is chopped into odd cube-like shapes; when you pick up the sandwich, much of the meat tumbles out, which is not a good thing. Go instead with the coleslaw-topped pulled pork sandwich (photo). It's a model of its kind, and huge; you'll need two hands to handle this beast. Must-try side: the pit beans and Grandma Taylor's potato salad.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

TSTBBQ, Leonardo

"Texas style BBQ with a New Jersey attitude'' is the slogan at TSTBBQ, headquartered at Hole in One Miniature Golf on Route 36 eastbound, The golf course has been open 20-plus years; TSTBBQ the past three. The menu includes burgers, pulled pork sandwiches, ribs, bacon wrapped onion "wrings'' and more. Good ribs, with tender, juicy meat, but the highlight here are the burnt ends, available weekends only.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

Daddy Matty's BBQ, Madison

Daddy Matty is Matt James, who went from backyard barbecuing to opening his own storefront. "Daddy Matty doesn't have to be your daddy for you to reap the BBQ benefits," he says,

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German potato salad is an N.J. barbecue joint rarity, so finding it on the menu here made for a must-order. It's not your grandma's German potato salad, it's tangy and sharp and packed with attitude. The pulled pork is dried out, but I dug the smoky/spicy BBQ sauce. The ribs (photo) are fat, tender and nicely seasoned.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

What's your favorite BBQ joint?

This is one barbecue lover's list of the state's best BBQ. What's your favorite barbecue joint? Who did we leave out? Let us know in the comments section.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

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