In this post, I will show you how to make an easy bikini top that I wore in my side saddle superman tutorial. The first step in creating this simple top drives home the point that patterns for stretch fabrics is an imprecise science at best. It really varies depending on the fabric you want to work with. Luckily, knit fabric can be very forgiving. You want to choose a fabric that has a lot of recovery (bounces back to original size) when making your own bikini top. This method may need to be tweaked for plus size women.

THE PATTERN

1) Measure your bust circumference. Take this measurement and calculate 70%-85% of this measurement. If your fabric is very stretchy, aim for a lower measurement. If your fabric does not have a lot of stretch, aim higher. Take this measurement and divide by 2. Example: My bust measurement = 33″. The fabric I’m using has a good amount of stretch and recovery. I’m going with 75% which rounds to 25″. 25″ divide by 2 = 12.5″



2) Measure how much you want the top to cover height wise. Be sure to measure over the largest part of your chest. Example: My measurement is 5″.

3) Draw a rectangle as long as the measurement in step 1 and as wide a the measurement is step 2.

4) Mark one side of the short line as a FOLDLINE. Shape the top and bottom as shown in the diagram.

5) Measure the circumference under your bust and apply the same calculations in step one. Example: 28″ x .75= 21″, 21″ divide by 2= 10.5″

6) Draw a rectangle 1″ wide and the length of the result in step 5. One short side is a FOLDLINE. These are the bands finishing the top and bottom.

7) Add 1/2″ seam allowance to all non FOLDLINE sides.

CUTTING

8) Cut 2 pieces from the main piece, one piece as a lining to provide more coverage. Use a solid colour if the lining piece as a pattern will show through. NOTE: You may want to add a pair of moulded cups between these pieces, but I don’t find the need to myself.

9) Cut 2 band pieces. The band pieces will need to be a fabric that has good recovery. If you want to use a fabric with poor recovery, consider inserting elastic inside.

10) Cut 2 strips of fabric 1.5″ wide across the fabric from selvage to selvage for the straps. This piece need to be cut from jersey so that it will roll on itself.

In the video below, I will walk through the process on how to sew the bikini top together.

Et voila, your top is finished. Wear it with the pole shorts from the Make Your Own Pole Shorts Pattern post, or suscribe to my RRS feed as I will be posting a tutorial on how to make the bikini bottoms that I wore with this bikini top soon.

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