A fundamental part of life in Argentina is the custom of drinking mate, a traditional beverage which is defined by law as the ‘national infusion’. It was first drunk by the indigenous Guaraní of the continent, before being domesticated and becoming synonymous with the Gaucho as a reference to traditional Argentine lifestyle. Mate is a caffeinated herbal tea drunk from a gourd, and is drunk at all times of the day just like tea in England. However it is not a drink, as Argentines do not take mate to quench their thirst. It is both a habit and a hobby. Many proud Argentines will spend their whole day drinking their own mate, waking themselves up with it in the morning and walking the streets with a flask under their armpit and a gourd in their grasp. However it is also a drink of friendship, and the usual custom is to invite friends to your house or agree to meet somewhere to take mates. On a sunny day in Mar del Plata many groups can be seen sharing mate on the promenade and the beach, as well as the famous spot by the sea lions beach where you can sit and drink in your car while watching the city’s mascots frolic beneath the skyline. It is also custom to offer it to other acquaintances and strangers in a gathering, which I encountered in my hostel in Buenos Aires and in my teaching classes. The infusion has a bitter taste and so does not appeal to all the natives, however it is drunk by the old and young, rich and poor, and the day you become a man is considered to be the day you decide to take your first mate on your own, which I am doing right now!

’Mate’ is the name of both the drink and the gourd it is drunk from. The herb, which I eventually managed to convince my mum is not a drug, is called ’yerba’ and is grown in the northern provinces of Argentina. The chopped yerba fills the gourd and the added hot water is drunk from a silver straw called a bombilla, which is designed to also act as a sieve. The recipient can be made of various materials, such as wood, glass, pumpkin, and even hooves, however the herb is always the same, and condiments such as honey, coffee, or orange peel can be added according to personal preference. Sugar is often added to counter the bitterness, particularly for naive foreigners, however most Argentines drink it bitter and I like it this way too. There are versions of mate served cold or with a teabag, but these are less common. Furthermore, the custom of sharing mate has an important etiquette and certain fundamental practices: there is one server who takes charge of serving, and is responsible for being attentive to the quality of the mate and the continuity of the service. The water has an optimum temperature of 82C, and the server must try the first brew to make sure it is not too cold or bitter. There is a skill to making the yerba last longer, and it must be changed once it has become diluted. The mate is passed around to each person who drinks the whole contents before returning it to the server, and the process is continued until the last person has had enough, which can be hours later.



From experiencing this practice and learning about it in my classes, it is clear that the mate culture is another demonstration of the values held by the people who created it. Hospitality and sharing without prejudice are inbuilt into the custom, and practising it encourages you to be generous and courteous to others. There is a strong individual pride both for those who carry out the habit routinely and those who try to prepare the best mate, and also a collective pride in displaying the national custom so openly in public. Its simplest virtue is that it provides a comfortable way to talk frankly with friends and experience the fellowship of others. I bought a souvenir mate in Iguazu with a toucan on which I was very happy to see in the wild, and I plan to take some yerba back to the UK to share the custom and see what people think of it!