Vanessa Watt sits her client in the chair and wraps an apron around him. The greying gentleman points to a picture of a mohawk on the wall and tells her he would like something like that.

Main points: Hair stylists will have their penalty rates reviewed by Fair Work Commission

Hair stylists will have their penalty rates reviewed by Fair Work Commission The Australian Workers Union has created a modern media campaign to fight it

The Australian Workers Union has created a modern media campaign to fight it It's also considering a return to the days of licensed hairdressers

Without a moment's hesitation, the senior stylist nods thoughtfully and explains to her apprentice the settings she'll need to use on the clippers to achieve the result.

Ms Watt's hair salon was booked out last weekend with appointments for formal up-styles for a nearby social function.

"At the end of the day my gosh, I'm so tired, because your brain's constantly thinking and you're on your feet," she said.

"You've got to think about the angles, there's maths involved. We actually know the science of the hair.

"You're still learning every day because trends change."

The difference between what clients pay and what hair stylists earn can be significant ( ABC News: Alison Branley )

Such is a day in the life of a typical salon owner, but unlike most, Ms Watt is also a union organiser.

She is an "ambassador" for Hair Stylists Australia, a campaign being run by one of the country's most traditional trade organisations — the Australian Workers Union (AWU).

Usually the bastion of steel and factory workers, the union has mobilised to defend the female-dominated world of hairdressers.

And it said its latest campaign would fight for something relevant to all workers across Australia — penalty rates.

Talking to women totally different: union

For AWU national secretary Daniel Walton, working out how to talk to women in an industry where 90 per cent are female has been a learning curve.

"Most often if you turn up to one of our big manufacturing sites it's very blokey, blue collar, lots of testosterone, someone standing in front of the big meeting," he said.

"The reality is walking into a hairdresser's and trying to pull that on is: it's just not going to fly."

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And so they created Hair Stylists Australia.

Its ambassadors wear shiny pink T-shirts and communicate with members through social media channels like Instagram and Facebook.

Their first major challenge will be retaining penalty rates after a push from the industry to follow the lead of the retail and hospitality sectors and cut them.

The case is scheduled to go before the Fair Work Commission in August, which is holding a four-yearly review of the award.

"There's not been a union presence in this industry before so it's an easy target and the industry is going after them," Mr Walton said.

"They've got the employers in hairdressing industry trying to strip away what little pay they've already got.

"What we're trying to do is empower women [to] come together through small community engagement to really give them a stronger voice."

Mr Walton said the new approach was working.

"Hairdressers are sitting there going 'when are my skills going to be recognised? When is my pay going to reflect the qualifications and all the dedication I've given?'" he said.

"Women are prepared to get together, they are prepared to stand up, they're prepared to fight for what is right."

Ms Watt said she became an ambassador after feeling unsupported during her apprenticeship and finding others came to her with similar concerns.

"The main issues are bullying, from either the boss or other staff and not getting paid correctly," she said.

"So some people not knowing their awards and things like that, not having their superannuation paid, and training."

Vanessa Watt says apprentices like hers will suffer is penalty rates are cut ( ABC News: Alison Branley )

As an employer, she said she could appreciate why the industry wanted to reduce penalty rates, but believed it was the wrong approach.

"It's hard enough on [apprentice] wages and then if they take that away it's going to be even harder for them," Ms Watt said.

"It seems with this sort of stuff hairdressing gets picked on a lot. I can see on both sides but I still don't think it's fair to cut our penalty rates."

The AWU believes the campaign is relevant to more than just hairdressers.

"Everyone thinks it won't happen to me. No-one thought they were going to lose penalty rates in retail hospitality many years ago," Mr Walton said.

"If hairdressers lose their penalty rates, who's next?"

More salons could open Sundays: employers

The industry argues a reduction in Sunday penalty rates could allow more salons to open on Sundays because at present only one in four does.

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The Hair and Beauty Australia Industry Association did not respond to the ABC's request for comment, but in its submission to the Fair Work Commission it argued many leases in major shopping centres required salons to open all weekend and on public holidays.

"The difficulties many small retailers face in negotiating the term of retail leases with the owners of large retail shopping centres are notorious," it stated.

"Accordingly, many hair and beauty businesses are not able to avoid Sunday and public holiday penalties.

"Sunday trading has become an increasingly prominent feature of the industry."

It also said the sector had been facing increasing competition from home operators, do-it-yourself beauty products and online sales of beauty products.

"Online stores, free from salon overheads, are able to offer lower priced products," the submission read.

"The current penalty rates regime results in employers struggling to compete, not only with non-compliant employers, but also with the other businesses in the industry.

"Many of the reasons why penalty rates were reduced in the retail industry are equally relevant to the hair and beauty industry."

How much does your hairdresser get paid?

The table below shows what various levels of hair stylist earn compared to a similarly trained plumber:

HAIRDRESSER Hourly PLUMBER Hourly High school age apprentice (first year) $11.02 High school age apprentice (first year) $12.46

High school age apprentice (fourth year) $19.83 High school age apprentice (fourth year) $21.78 Adult apprentice (first year) $17.63 Adult apprentice (first year) $19.74 Adult apprentice (fourth year) $20.79 Adult apprentice (fourth year) $21.78 Level three hair and beauty worker (Cert III) $22.04 Level one plumber (registered) $24.60 Level six hair and beauty worker (Diploma beauty therapy) $23.94 Adv six plumber level 2 (registered) $55.64

*High school age means the worker did not complete Year 12 (Source: Fair Work Ombudsman)

Back to the future for hairdressers

As part of their campaign for better recognition of their skills, Hair Stylists Australia is also considering a return to the era of licensed hairdressers.

"Some states have removed that and what we've seen is the rise of chop shops, backyard hairdressers, anyone calling themselves a hairdresser and we are extremely concerned," Mr Walton said.

"We've had all sorts of shocking horror stories that have come out of this unregulated industry."

Have you had a bad haircut? Send us a pic: Specialist.Team@abc.net.au

Ms Watt said she had to repair clients with hair falling out from poor bleaching practices and bad cuts.

"I've seen some horrible reactions. When people come in, I'm like, 'oh, my goodness, like, how does this still happen?'" she said.

Hair stylists must know how to mix many hair colours and work with many chemicals ( ABC News: Alison Branley )

Mr Walton said it was also part of a push towards professionalisation.

"Hairdressers work with a lot of different chemicals with no ventilation in place," he said.

"For a lot of other industries where there are trade workers working there would be proper OHS procedures.

"Before you go operating a pair of scissors close to someone's face you need to be able to demonstrate you've had the necessary training to go to do so."