The discovery of aquafaba was a revelation for vegans: suddenly mayonnaise, marshmallows, even macaroons were on the table. But aquafaba isn’t just for plant-based eaters; it’s easier to whip than egg whites and makes the silkiest mayo, the fluffiest meringues and a puffy Yorkshire pud fit for a carnivore. It’s also great shaken up in a whisky sour.

Aquafaba, or bean water, is the cooking liquid from chickpeas and other legumes. Because it is naturally full of protein and saponin, it can be whipped up just like egg whites into a delicious, virtually cost-free stand-in for egg whites, and a thrifty way to use up a byproduct that would otherwise go down the drain.

So save the liquid the next time you drain a can of pulses; or, if you cook dried beans, the cooking water. To make a protein-rich aquafaba from scratch, soak the legumes in plenty of water overnight. Drain, cover with a litre of fresh water per 200g pulses (pre-soaked weight) and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, skim off any froth, then cover and cook for one to two hours, until the beans are soft. Leave to cool down, then refrigerate.

Bean water ‘aquafaba’ mayonnaise

Bean water mayo is easy to make and a delicious way to use up a byproduct that would otherwise be wasted. The quality of the oil is important, because it will be the main flavour of the mayonnaise.

50ml bean water

1 tbsp mustard

Salt and black pepper

About 200ml oil – organic rapeseed, sunflower or olive, ideally

1 tbsp vinegar – cider, white-wine or other

Put the bean water, mustard and a pinch of salt and pepper in a clean, grease-free bowl. Blend with a hand-mixer (or put everything in a blender) until combined and frothy, then pour in the oil in a very slow, steady stream, blending as you go. Once the consistency is as you like, stop adding the oil and blend in the vinegar and garlic, if using.