Michael Collins Irish Whiskey "A Blend"

(about $27)

In the market now for just a few years, this big-bodied, blended whiskey has certainly made its presence felt in short order. Notes of smoke and faint iodine from the pot-distilled portion of the spirit might make you think of Scottish whisky, but the roundly sweet, honey-ish nose and fruity, approachable palate leave no doubt about its innate Irishness. A single-malt Collins is also available.

Cheese Pairing: Dinner Pairing: Medium White Cheddar

The light smokiness of the whiskey plays off the dryness of the cheese, while the spirit's fruity qualities map to similar flavors in the cheddar. Herbed Roast Leg of Lamb

The rich and rounded flavor of this whiskey naturally enhances the sweet taste of lamb.

Bushmills 10-Year-Old Single-Malt Irish Whiskey

(about $44)

Long the purveyor of just two brands (Bushmills and the premium Black Bush), this Northern distiller is now pursuing the single-malt market with gusto. Its youngest such offering has a toasty nose holding hints of dried fruit and a body that balances fruitiness with dry, toasted malt favors and a hint of oily earthiness on the finish. The older siblings are 12, 16 and 21 years old.

Cheese Pairing: Dessert Pairing: Dry Goat Cheese

Just like apples or pears, fruity spirits are always a palate-pleasing match to dried, more mature goat cheeses. This is no exception. Pear Charlottes with Chamomile Crème Anglaise

For a relatively delicate dessert like this, a soft and fruity whiskey is essential. The slight earthiness on the finish only adds new dimensions to the dish.

Greenore Single Grain Irish Whiskey

(about $43)

Here's something different: a whiskey distilled entirely from unmalted grains and then aged eight years in former bourbon casks. Not surprisingly, the body is light and fresh, with a sprightly, fresh citrus aroma and soft, sweet flavors of vanilla, lemon zest, and green apple. This is the ideal introductory whiskey and one that will please even the vodka drinkers in the crowd.

Cheese Pairing: Dessert Pairing: Young Goat Cheese

A zesty spirit for a young and tangy cheese. Scotch Whisky Trifle

Vanilla notes from the wood-aging complement the taste of the custard, while the whiskey's fruitiness blends with that of the trifle.

Redbreast Pure Pot Still Irish Whiskey

(about $40)

For some Irish whiskey aficionados, this is the ne plus ultra of spirits: a traditionally pot-distilled, veritable Christmas cake of liquid undisturbed by even the slightest nuance of smokiness. Expect a rich but clean aroma accented by nutty notes and a flavor that sits somewhere between honey and light molasses, with accompanying notes of ginger, nut and faintly spicy toffee.

Cheese Pairing: Dessert Pairing: Cashel Blue Cheese

The nutty richness of this whiskey makes it a natural, and regionally appropriate, complement to this classic Irish blue. Chamomile Crème Anglaise

The ginger and spice notes of the whiskey soar next to the full and fruity-spicy taste of the cake.

Connemara Cask Strength Peated Single Malt Irish Whiskey

(about $64)

Unquestionably the heavyweight champion of the Irish whiskey world, this is a richly smoky spirit, which belies the notion that Irish whiskeys should be crafted entirely from unpeated malt. Sipped straight, it offers a forcefully woodfire-fuelled aroma and an unexpectedly light, sweet and perfumed body that nevertheless delivers a hefty wallop of smokiness. Unlike most cask-strength whiskies, this is best enjoyed undiluted, sip by contemplative sip. Careful now: It's 60 percent alcohol by volume (that's 120 proof), which is considerably stronger than the usual 40 percent.

Cheese Pairing: Dessert Pairing: Aged Gouda

The smokiness of the whiskey accentuate and draw forward the naturally nutty taste of this cheese. Dark Chocolate (70% or Greater Cocoa Content)

The dry, pleasingly bitter flavor of gourmet chocolate is an ideal match for the smoke and oily strength of this whiskey.

Prices and availability subject to change.

Stephen Beaumont is a veteran drinks writer and author of five books on beer.