In “One Good Meal,” we ask cooking-inclined creative people to share the story behind a favorite dish they actually make and eat at home on a regular basis — and not just when they’re trying to impress.

In 2016, the musician and producer Rostam Batmanglij announced that he was amicably leaving Vampire Weekend, the clever New York band that made him an indie-rock star, to focus on a solo career.

By this time, he had also left the East Coast, decamping to Silver Lake in Los Angeles, home to the breakfast-all-day institution Sqirl, which is famous for helping turn avocado toast into the fad it is today. Piously nutritious, oddly addictive and invariably overpriced, mashed avocado has become ubiquitous to the point of self-parody. To some, it represents hipster elitism in the form of a spreadable condiment.