Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

A bucolic scene greets you no matter how you drive into Walla Walla, as golden, rolling hills fold into the horizon. But look between the wheat fields and you’ll spot fresh patches of green cropping up, a signal of profound change in southeast Washington.

Ever since white settlers arrived and forced the Cayuse Tribe off their traditional lands, the fields around Walla Walla have been dedicated to agriculture, allowing it to grow into one of the most prominent rural locales in the region. But over the last two decades wine grapes have begun to take over, transforming the town in the process.

Today, there are more than three dozen tasting rooms in downtown Walla Walla, with roughly 100 others found just outside of town. The burgeoning wine industry has brought a lot of money with it, and that has in turn led to upscale restaurants, new shops and updated tourist attractions.

Beyond the downtown corridor and the wheat fields around town, there is also great natural beauty to be found. To the east are the Blue Mountains, a little-explored region of eastern Oregon. To the west is a particularly scenic stretch of the Columbia River, a haven for wildlife with short hiking trails that lead to spectacular views.

The wine industry in Walla Walla shows no sign of slowing down any time soon. That should mean more change and growth coming to the little town in rural Washington, and greater opportunity to explore it. For now, here are 20 reasons to love Walla Walla.

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ATTRACTIONS

1. Pioneer Park Aviary

Owned and managed by the city of Walla Walla, the Pioneer Park Aviary is a seriously cool public attraction. The primary enclosure features peafowl, teals, ducks, geese and other birds, while colorful pheasants and doves fill smaller enclosures nearby. Find it on the southern end of the public park.

Pioneer Park is open 5 a.m. to 11 p.m.; the aviary is located at 925 Whitman Street.

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2. Whitman Mission

The Whitman Mission National Historic Site was ostensibly created as a monument to white martyrs, but in recent years the National Park Service has worked to tell a more truthful, nuanced story of the missionaries who were killed by members of the Cayuse Tribe. A recently-updated video inside the museum is worth watching, as it finally includes voices from the tribe.

The grounds are open daily from sunrise to sunset, and the visitor center is open daily from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. between May 26 and Sept. 2; located at 328 Whitman Mission Road.

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3. Fort Walla Walla Museum

With several exhibit halls full of relics dating back to white settlement of the area, the Fort Walla Walla Museum illustrates how the local agriculture industry emerged in the wake of the forced removal of the Cayuse Tribe from their traditional lands. Visitors can also see old carriages, clothing and household items from local families.

The museum is open daily from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. or 5 p.m. seasonally; located at 755 Myra Road; admission is $9 for adults, $8 for seniors and $4 for kids.

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4. The Museum of Un-Natural History

Less a museum and more a surreal art gallery, the Museum of Un-Natural History is filled with the bizarre works of former actor and artist Gerry Matthews, who can always be found sitting in a chair in the middle of the room. His work is in line with the artistic style of Dada, with overtly political themes and a style that’s intentionally subversive.

The museum is open Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.; located at 4 West Main Street, above Tallman's Pharmacy.

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5. Farmers Market

The Walla Walla Farmers Market is a perfect attraction for all those looking to sample the produce, food and handcrafted goods made in the rural town. The market is only open once a week, but it has its own designated area downtown, complete with a small stage for live performance.

Operates every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., May through October; located at the corner of Main Street and Fourth Street.

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FOOD AND DRINK

6. Wine downtown

There are more than three dozen tasting rooms in downtown Walla Walla, far more than even the most avid wine drinker could get through on one trip. Give up on trying to be comprehensive and pick out a few to visit, all conveniently located within walking distance of local restaurants and lodging. On a recent visit we stopped by Maison Bleue and Seven Hills.

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7. Wine at the airport

Just northeast of town is another booming tasting room scene around the Walla Walla Regional Airport. You can visit the more established wineries, but a unique tasting opportunity can be found at the "incubators," a group of five small tasting rooms on Piper Avenue run by upstart wine makers. It's really hit or miss, but there's a certain excitement in drinking what one day could become some of the most revered wine in the region.

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8. Wine south of town

Designate a sober driver and head to the wineries just south of town, where wine tasting comes with gorgeous views of vineyards, wheat fields and the Blue Mountains to the east. Some standouts include vineyards that grow in the cobblestones of The Rocks District, as well as the beautifully-designed tasting room at Valdemar Estates, an operation that opened in April by a family of successful Spanish wine makers.

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9. Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen

Operating in Walla Walla since 2007, Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen is one of the best-loved restaurants in town, serving up dishes that combine various Mediterranean flavors to great success. The flatbreads are good for a late lunch, but come back at dinner for their handmade pasta and other entrees.

Open daily for lunch and dinner; located at 330 West Main Street; call 509-525-2112 for reservations.

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10. TMACS

An institution in Walla Walla's dining scene, TMACS just moved into a beautiful new space this summer. The menu focuses on new American fare, with handmade pasta that's excellent. Between the great food and modern space, TMACS might be the best restaurant in town.

Open daily for dinner, open for lunch and dinner on weekdays; located at 80 North Colville Street; call 509-522-4776 for reservations.

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11. Bacon & Eggs

Judging by the name, you'd expect Bacon & Eggs to serve a typical farmer's breakfast, but open the menu and you'll find pages dominated by Mexican and southern options. The chilaquiles and migas are both excellent, though the shrimp and grits and the Texas eggs are certainly tempting.

Open Thursday through Tuesday for breakfast and lunch; located at 57 East Main Street.

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12. Maple Counter Cafe

If you like your breakfast loaded with carbs, sugar and fruit, then the Maple Counter Cafe is your kind of place. The Apple Pancake is "the pride of our kitchen" according to the menu, baked as a big souffle, stuffed with apples and smothered with a sticky cinnamon glaze. The restaurant also has a waffle truck outside that's open weekends from May to November.

Open daily for breakfast and lunch; located at 209 East Alder Street.

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13. Graze

Graze offers a good selection of simple, fresh sandwiches and is perfect for a quick lunch in downtown Walla Walla. The menu runs the gamut of cultural sandwich varieties, including several kinds of tortas and paninis, as well as a banh mi and a steak sandwich.

Open daily for lunch and dinner, closed early on Sundays; located at 5 South Colville Street.

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14. Walla Walla Bread Company

The entrance into Walla Walla Bread Company leads you right toward the fresh-baked loaves and case full of pastries, but skip the line that cues along the counter and grab a seat inside the restaurant for a meal made with that very same bread. It's a great lunch spot, where you can order sandwiches, salads and wood-fired pizza.

Open Tuesday through Sunday for breakfast, lunch and dinner; located at 201 East Main Street.

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OUTDOORS

15. Bennington Lake

A lovely lake located just east of town, Bennington Lake is popular among fishers, paddlers and hikers, who can walk along trails that circle the lake and connect to a network that runs up to nearby Rooks Park and the Mill Creek Trail. Formerly known as Mill Creek Reservoir, the lake is fed by diverting the flow from the creek to the north.

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16. Mill Creek

Mill Creek runs through the middle of town, eventually feeding the Walla Walla and Columbia Rivers downstream. There’s a nice hiking trail that runs along either side of the water just east of town at the Mill Creek Dam. It runs all the way to Rooks Park, where it connects to a trail that runs down to and around Bennington Lake.

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17. Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are the mountain range visible just east of town, a series of rolling hills that cross the border into Oregon and run south past Pendleton. There are several ways to dip into and explore the mountains, with hiking trails, campgrounds and parks found throughout the Umatilla National Forest.

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18. Twin Sisters

Twin Sisters is a fascinating rock formation above the Columbia River west of Walla Walla, tied to a Cayuse legend. A small pull-out on U.S. Route 730 affords access to a short network of hiking trails that run up to and beyond the formation. From the higher reaches, there are great views of the river at the expansive Wallula Gap. Find the trailhead 2.1 miles south of the split with U.S. Route 12.

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19. McNary Wildlife Refuge

Found at the big Wallula Gap on the Columbia River, the McNary National Wildlife Refuge is a respite for migratory birds, with hunting blinds and interpretive trails set up across 15,000 acres of wetland habitat. The surrounding views of the river and hills are reason enough to stop by.

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Courtesy of Chris Drake/Ski Bluewood

20. Bluewood

Winter recreation enthusiasts will want to visit Walla Walla in the colder months, when the ski runs open at Bluewood, a resort found east of town in the Blue Mountains. Bluewood is known for short lift lines and good powder, with 24 trails and three terrain parks across nearly 400 acres of skiable terrain.

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-- Jamie Hale | jhale@oregonian.com | @HaleJamesB