5 smoked sausage sandwiches worth ordering at Memphis barbecue joints

In the barbecue capital that is Memphis, the hard choices come down to more than just chopped or pulled, wet or dry.

Sometimes you walk into a barbecue joint with a hankering for something a little different — for turkey or wings, pizza or spaghetti, or ...

Smoked sausage sandwiches, anyone?

Here are five faves, courtesy of The CA staff:

Payne's Bar-B-Que

OK, look, Memphis is not really a hot dog town. Chicago and New Jersey have you covered. You can grab a dog from a street cart in Manhattan or even just hop down the highway to Atlanta for a trip to The Varsity. Everybody can’t be great at everything. Better to be great at barbecue than hot dogs. But … wait … supposing you could be great at both, in one hand?

For the ultimate Memphis hot dog equivalent, even if it’s only a cousin, I submit to you the smoked sausage at Payne’s Bar-B-Que (1762 Lamar Ave., 901-272-1523). This is the opposite of artisanal anything. It’s probably the same bright red smoked sausages you would buy in bulk at the grocery store, with the same cheap buns displayed alongside. Fine. Are you going to dip your sausages in oil to crisp them up nice? Are you going to slather them in Payne’s hot barbecue sauce? (Get hot at Payne’s. Always.) And are you going to have access to a tart, finely chopped, bright yellow “slaw” that’s really more of a relish and probably makes more sense on the smoked sausage than the chopped pork anyway? C’mon. It’s $3.75. It’s messy. It’s delicious. It’s not at all good for you. Add baked beans (crowned with chopped pork and sauce), a bag of Lay’s and a can of Coke, and you have a balanced lunch for less than eight bucks. You’re welcome, Memphis. — Chris Herrington

Germantown Commissary

It's a simple sandwich, consisting of a split, hot links smoked sausage, a dollop of creamy coleslaw, all resting on a toasted bun. It comes in regular and jumbo sizes, but, at $6.50, the larger size is only 55 cents extra so go ahead and splurge.

It is a sublimely good sandwich. And, as the menu at the Commissary (2290 South Germantown, 901-754-5540) says: "You gotta please those Texas folks." Well, I've never lived in Texas, but I'll say this is one of the best sandwiches I've had. It has just about the right ratio of spicy-to-sweet, and the sausage is a welcome change from having a pulled pork, chicken or brisket sandwich.

You could have this sandwich as a lunch or pair it with two sides and a deviled egg (as I did) for $9.50 and you've got a big lunch or dinner. Never tried a hot link and just want to taste it without a full commitment? Get a single link for $2.45 and try it as an appetizer or side dish to whatever else you are having.

— Mark Russell

Central BBQ

Let's just say it on the front end: Of all the times I've been to Central — and there have been many times — I've never had the smoked sausage sandwich until now.

That's not an indictment of their smoked sausage sandwich; it's just that there are too many other choices at my favorite barbecue stop. But, since smoked sausage was the assignment, there was no question what I'd be choosing on this particular outing.

Was I disappointed? That would be a big nyet if we were having Kielbasa in Ukraine. Since it's Memphis, we'll just say nope, y'all won't be singing the blues with this sausage either.

It won't become my go-to dish at Central, but it was definitely a pleasant change of pace. I added slaw and fries on the side, and found myself with a lunch serving of just the right size. It had a slight but not overpowering smoky flavor that brought a thumbs up as well from my son, who took a break from his turkey plate (it was the week before Thanksgiving, after all).

Make no mistake, this is a messy proposition. Keeping that sausage in a bun and all the slaw on top until the final bite is, well, highly unlikely. That's the closest thing to a complaint I came away with, however.

I did my sampling at the Central location at 4375 Summer, but it's also available at the 2249 Central location in Midtown and the Downtown location at 147 E. Butler.

— Ron Maxey

King Jerry Lawler’s Memphis BBQ Company

When I go to a barbecue joint, I’m there for pulled pork. I’m pretty much unaware of anything else on the menu other than beans, slaw or french fries for sides.

And that's my normal approach at Jerry Lawler’s Memphis BBQ Company in Cordova. A pork plate with two sides is the routine order for me.

To some, the restaurant (465 N. Germantown Parkway, 901-509-2360) may be considered just a place with the King’s name on it, something to use as a draw. Thus far, the Lawler name hasn’t proved a huge benefit. There are times that there are few, if any, customers in the former Starbucks location.

But after several meals at the establishment, I’m here to say, it is a hidden treasure in Cordova. The place serves some pretty tasty 'cue with a variety of sauces and rubs, such as pecan and apple.

But, we’re not here to talk barbecue. Our target is the smoked sausage sandwich ($6.49), or on the King’s menu — the Rude Awakening, a nod to the late Rick Rude’s finishing move, I suppose.

Upon peeling back the wrapping around the sandwich, one thing catches your attention — there is a nice pile of meat on the bun, stacked in overlapping rows. A scoop of slaw completes the mountain of goodies comprising the sandwich.

Yep, I got slaw on it. Things like this (and barbecue) go best with slaw.

A touch of that slaw and a piece of smoked sausage dropped onto the wrapper as soon as I took my first bite. That was an immediate clue that — like any good pork sandwich — you don’t eat this delicacy while driving along Germantown Parkway.

I’ll add that there is a nice aroma of hickory, and the sprinkle of rub on top of the tender links presents a very, very subtle hint of sweet with the finishing of a bite.

Unfortunately, the second sandwich I had in the taste test didn't have the rub on the sausage — an absence that was noticeable compared to the first one.

OK, that’s enough trying to bring in terms like savory and other descriptive words that are outside my expertise.

Here’s the bottom line — it’s a dang good sandwich.

And, even though I’ll always make the pork sandwich my first choice, that smoked sausage certainly may find its way into the King Lawler bag occasionally.

— Clay Bailey

One & Only BBQ

The primary benefit of having a new One & Only BBQ location just 2.4 miles from my Cordova home is obvious: I'm able to visit one of my fave barbecue joints more often. There's a secondary benefit: As a more frequent patron, I'm apt to explore the menu further and partake in more than just those stellar staples, the ribs and shoulder.

And so, after the latest family outing to One & Only (three locations; go to oneandonlybbq.com), I can highly recommend the smoked, grilled kielbasa sandwich. I can't say it was the best I've had in the city because — happily — I've much research still to do on the subject. But it's further proof, along with the smoked wings, that the One & Only menu is worth deep exploration.

In the spirit of the tried-and-true, though, I will confess to snagging a dry rib off the platter my wife and son were sharing. Ah, good as ever — and worth the slap on the wrist for my crime.

— David Williams

More in our '5 to try' series:

5 desserts worth splurging on in Memphis

5 Memphis burgers you should be eating now