The province of Narathiwat has no shortage of mystical and natural wonders

PARADISE FOUND: A heavenly view of misty Hala-Bala Forest in Waeng district, Narathiwat, in the morning. PHOTOS: CHAIYOT YONGCHAROENCHAI

No one can deny that Thailand has much to offer as a tourist destination. With its diverse culture, natural wonders and ethnic groups, it is regularly named one of the world's top must-see places on annual travel destination rankings.

Many of the country's most famous attractions are concentrated in the South's beautiful islands and the evergreen mountains in the North. But there remain many hidden gems still waiting to be noticed by outsiders.

Among such places is an area nestled in the deep South -- hidden not because its beauty is unknown but because it sits at the southernmost end of Thailand, where the restive Thai and Malaysian borders meet.

The reputation of Narathiwat province has been stained by its history of terrorist attacks. Although the city is now considered fairly safe -- the streets are heavily patrolled by soldiers -- it remains a challenge to earn the confidence of outsiders who only hear bad news about the region.

Despite the ongoing insurgency in the deep South, residents on either side of the Thai-Malaysian border go about their lives as usual. Several areas in Narathiwat have had the "Red Alert Zone" label recently lifted.

Meanwhile, people are keen to welcome visitors to stimulate the economy.

SEA OF MIST

Narathiwat is located along the Gulf of Thailand. It is home to several unspoiled beaches. But visiting the beach in Narathiwat isn't the only attraction that the province has to offer.

Early risers will find the following activity thrilling -- those who have had their share of ocean sunrises already can try waking up at 4am to go to Hala-Bala Forest in Waeng district, where they can watch a mist-filled sunrise above the tree line.

The tropical evergreen forest marks the border of Thailand and Malaysia, and it also covers the Betong district of Yala and Janae district in Narathiwat. It has been registered as a preservation area since 1996.

It is also a source of water for three big rivers -- Saiburi, Pattani and Kolok, the streams of which flow into all three of the southernmost provinces.

To get to this viewpoint, it's best to start at Sungai Kolok, a city 18 kilometres away from the forest peak. After arriving, travellers can continue their journey on foot from the main trail. But don't worry -- it's only a 200-metre walk along the wooden trail built by park officials.

Arriving in the dark at the viewpoint, it might look like there's not much to see. But as the sun slowly comes up over the horizon, the mist creeps in and covers itself over the treetops. As time goes by, the sky slowly changes from a faded orange to a magnificent blue.

To get this special sunrise, travellers must first contact park officials, who will then send park officers to guide you from the minute you arrive until when you leave.

HOLY SHRINE

The majority of Narathiwat residents are Muslim, but they are not the only social influencers in the region -- the Chinese, who migrated several centuries ago, also brought their culture and beliefs. To this day, the Chinese influence can be witnessed at a famous shrine in Narathiwat.

The Tomo Shrine, the most well-known shrine in Sungai Kolok, draws visitors from Malaysia and Singapore to pay respect to the Chinese goddess Tomo. It also attracts Chinese tourists, especially in March when a celebration is held for Tomo's birthday.

Tomo became a famous figure in Narathiwat when one of her worshippers from China came to the province seeking work in a gold mine in Sukhirin district, 50km from today's shrine site.

Before World War II, a French company obtained a licence to dig gold found in Sukhirin. The company then hired several Chinese Hokkien as workers, some of whom worshipped Tomo.

Before the mining project had started, one miner claimed she had been possessed by Tomo. She warned the company owner to avoid digging in a certain area that he had designated for mining activity. If he continued, she told him, many people would die. He didn't listen to the woman.

The next day, the mine collapsed and buried at least 100 workers inside.

In the wake of the tragedy, the company owner said he believed Tomo was behind the tragedy. He went to China to collect the Tomo goddess statue and placed it at the shrine in Sukhirin. His mining business went off without a hitch from thereon in.

The Tomo Shrine was later moved from Sukhirin to Sungai Kolok city in 1962. The village in the area, Baan Tomo, was named as a nod to the goddess of the sacred shrine.

GOLDEN OPPORTUNITY

Besides being the home of Thailand's first Tomo statue, Baan Tomo is host to an experimental farm under Her Majesty the Queen's projects. The Queen purchased the old gold mine area with the intention of preserving it. She then gave the land to the people of northeastern Thailand, inviting them to move and make a living off the fertile land.

PRECIOUS METAL: A villager shows the gold worth 1,000 baht she collected from the brook running through Baan Tomo. Below, the abundant Daeng Peat Swamp Forest.

Those who settled on the land do agriculture for a living. They raise chickens for meat and eggs and also grow vegetables. Each person who lives in the village practises a sustainable lifestyle and earns a salary of 6,000 baht per month.

Apart from their daily work, the villagers also earn a living by collecting gold from the river that runs through their town every weekend. From this, they can earn 500 to 1,000 baht.

Weerachai and Patchara Lakorn, a married couple who live in the village, bring their son, Muang Thong, to the river every weekend.

"We come here every weekend to dredge for gold to sell in town for extra money," said Ms Patchara. "We usually find one to two millimetres of gold, which gives us 1,000 baht each time we sell it.

"The best time of the year to do it is during the rainy season since there is a lot of gold that has washed off from the mountain into the river. Even my three-year-old son can find it. It's an easy way to earn extra money."

First Lieutenant Thanabun Phonkaya, the Ibajo example farm manager of HM the Queen, explained that people who live on this farm property struggled to have a good life in their Northeast hometowns. But moving to the deep South improved their lives significantly.

"We are bringing new knowledge for them to do farm work," Lt Thanabun explained. "We help them raise goats, chicken, fish and more. We are also launching a spa and Thai massage soon right here in our village.

"Finding gold is their hobby and I encourage everyone to do it since they can earn extra living money from it for their future. Any visitors who wish to visit this village are required to contact the farm first. Then we will take you on a whole day tour, which includes dredging the gold too."

SWAMPED WITH DISCOVERY

Narathiwat has another type of experience uniquely available to this part of Thailand. To Daeng Peat Swamp Forest, or the Sirindhorn Peat Swamp Forest Nature Research and Study Centre, is the only peat swamp forest in the country, covering 120,000 rai of land and stretching over four districts in Narathiwat.

The main entrance to the forest can be found in Sungai Kolok. The forest, with roots tracked back to 7,000 years ago, is open to the public for visit. It has a two-kilometre trail leading to different corners of the forest built on a swamp.

The trail was built in 1987, while the learning centre continues to be developed.

The one-hour walk through the swamp forest shows visitors many types of trees and red-tinged swamp water. The water is acidic, but authorities insist it is safe for humans and some marine animals.

Park authorities are now in the process of developing a water trail for those who want to explore the forest by kayak. On the weekend, visitors can access local tour guides, who are also young students based in the area.

They are trained by Manes Boonyanun, the chief of Sirindhorn Peat Swamp Forest Nature Research and Study Centre, who believes children will learn to cherish and preserve forests if they develop a good understanding of what the forest can give them at a young age.

"I developed this learning technique for the kids to learn to love the forest," Mr Manes said. "Hundreds of local kids here voluntarily join this project and we have at least a thousand kids who aware of the significance of the forest.

"The kids learn this from their heart and they are passionate about preservation. They used to welcome Princess Sirindhorn and explained what they know about the forest, not from their memories, but from their hearts."

The forest can be visited on any day of the week. All visitors are treated to a briefing before entering the premises and follow the rules of the grounds strictly. Those who are lucky enough can see monkeys, hornbills or the mythical crocodiles said to live in the swamp.

VANTAGE POINT: The wooden trail in Hala-Bala Forest leads to the perfect area to watch a mist-filled sunrise.

ATTRACTION: The most well-known shrine in Sungai Kolok draws visitors from Malaysia and Singapore to pay respect to the Chinese goddess Tomo.