In a wine shop called Rodder & Vin in the Norrebro neighborhood, two men were talking about natural wine. They sounded like music geeks in a record shop discussing who was a better frontman for AC/DC. They weren’t just talking about sommeliers and natural winemakers, but particular sommeliers and importers and their effect on Copenhagen’s flourishing natural wine scene.

In this world, aficionados credit the shift to natural wine to the Copenhagen restaurant Noma, which has four times topped the annual list compiled by the World’s 50 Best Restaurants organization, and its former wine director, Pontus Elofsson, who began putting these less conventional wines on the menu.

“It really changed something. Everyone asked ‘Can you do that?,’” said Solfinn Danielsen, who owns the small wine shop and is often seen on his custom-built Omnium cargo bike delivering wine to the city’s top restaurants.

Though very little wine of any sort is produced in Denmark, visitors to the shop agreed that there is no better place to drink natural wine than in Copenhagen.