I had a request for a post about lingerie, and what a wonderful subject it is! However, I like to keep this blog PG, and as you can tell from my previous posts I’m pretty limited in terms of models. It was important for me to show the fit rather than just lay the gowns out, so the project went on the back burner for a while. However, my good friend Kristina sent me a wonderful birthday present this year: an adjustable sewing model. I’ve named her Essie, and she’ll be starring it today’s post about how to thrift the best vintage lingerie.

For me, vintage lingerie is about feeling special, about feeling as sexy as Marilyn or Jackie, a little bit of role play combined with functional, beautiful clothing.

Although I occasionally picked up vintage slips here and there, it wasn’t until I started watching Mad Men that I really fell in love with the polyester gowns of the 1950’s and 60’s. Every time I watched Betty Draper sulking petulantly around in one of her gowns and bed jackets I had a strong impulse to head over to the Etsy vintage section– but then I realized that pieces just as beautiful turned up regularly at our local thrift stores. It’s hard to find good vintage dresses and often shirts, but happily gowns seem to have had an excellent survivability rate, probably due to their high polyester content!

Finding a good fit in a vintage nightgown isn’t too hard, but there are a few things to keep in mind. One, if you generally stay away from blousy fits and gathers with your regular clothing (which I do), you can shelve that rule if you’re picking out something sheer. As you can see from the photo above, a sheer fabric has the great advantage of showing off your form, even if it’s got some fluffiness or multiple layers. Sheer, gathered lingerie is like magic– it hides imperfections and makes your body look just a little bit mysterious, but still completely sexy. The high necklines and lace trim of many vintage sheer robes and nighties just give them a touch of innocence.

Waist definition can be a little more tricky if you’re working with a satin or silk rather than a sheer. If you can’t see your natural curves through the gown or robe, there’s a danger that you may end up looking a little boxy. That’s the problem with a lot of the older gowns by brands like Miss Elaine, a line still in production which hasn’t marketed anything innovative since 1965. Their sheer items (which, by the way, they no longer make) work fine– but their straight up-and-down satin gowns make a womanly figure look like a shiny tube sock. So, for opaque fabrics, look for items cut on the bias. This means that the grain of the fabric wraps diagonally around the body so that it conforms to your curves without clinging or binding. Thankfully this cut was very popular in the 1970’s and 80’s for nightgowns, so it’s not terribly hard to find them and they’re usually drop-dead sexy.

This is a full length gown from Petra Fashions, which I’d guess was made around 1985-1990. I have a couple bias cut gowns, but I’ve picked this one because you can really see the diagonal lines. The panels of lace here highlight your “assets” and the black satin glosses over the tummy area, so all the attention goes exactly where you want it to!

Because nightgowns tend to be a little less picked-through than the other thrift departments, it’s easier to find something really special. For me, it was this beautiful half-slip in spring green from Lorraine.

Here it is with a 1980’s ribboned bed jacket from Maryann’s Boutique:

I love this slip. It fits perfectly, it has a high waistband that gives it some shape and the bustline is very flattering. It has adorably practical straps that make me imagine one of the secretaries from Mad Men putting it on under her dress before work in the morning. The lace is beautiful and in perfect condition, and it even has an extra little piece of lace sewn on to the skirt as an applique, just for a little more fanciness.

If you find a gown that you like, just make sure to try it on. Now, some might have compunctions about purchasing or trying vintage gowns, but if you purchase other vintage clothing, it’s really not much different. Goodwill washes everything. And, as a lover of vintage clothing, there’s no need to be shy about not being the first ever to wear something. You make it your own when you add it to your wardrobe.