opinion

Putnam: Four generations at the Lansing City Market comes to an end as Cheeseman moves out

LANSING – Hills' Home Cured Cheese, the last vestige of the city’s old farmers market, will leave the Lansing City Market this month. It’s a sad ending. Four generations of the same family have operated at the market, dating back to 1916.

Instead, the Hills family will sell cheese at farmers markets in Flint and Davison, and soon, at a new outdoor pavilion market opening in May in downtown Saginaw.

Glenn Hills, who started selling cheese in 1961 with just two varieties and grew his business to more than 150 of domestic and imported cheeses, confirmed the move but said he didn’t want to talk about the reasons.

“That market is in terrible shape. We were the last ones to pull out,” he said when reached at his home in St. Johns. He confirmed that the family would continue to sell cheese at other markets outside of Lansing.

Hills’ grandparents, Dell and Grace Simpson, sold apples at the Lansing City Market starting in 1916. His parents, Paul and Eleanor Hills, were produce vendors from 1947 to 1963. He started the cheese shop in 1961 and his children now run the business.

His son, Paul Hills, who operates the store in the Lansing market, couldn’t be reached for comment.

Though a sign said the market was open on Wednesday, it was closed with a gate pulled in front of the cheese case.

Even as urban farmers’ markets grow in popularity in other downtown areas, Lansing rejected the concept.

The old City Market, which dated back to 1909 and offered farmers’ produce in stalls, was razed to make way for an apartment building. A new pole barn style market reopened in 2010 along the river as more of a giftshop, restaurant and event destination. Though popular at its opening, attendance and vendors have steadily declined. Most spaces now sit empty.

Rent doesn’t cover the costs and the city budgets $80,000 a year to subsidize the market.

Only the Waterfront Bar & Grill, and LS Jewelry Designs & Florals remain, though two small vendors, a cupcake shop and writing business, moved in last week. Paul Brogan said his kayak rental shop Rivertown Adventures will reopen when the weather allows. A gift shop operated by Rivertown will also reopen. It closed in March and April.

Scott Keith, president and CEO of the Lansing Entertainment Public Facilities Administration, which runs the city market and other assets for Lansing, confirmed that Hills' Cheese told the market it would leave in April.

He said a year ago, the vendor switched from an annual lease to a month-to-month lease.

“Certainly losing such a long-standing tradition is sad. It’s sad to see them go but hopefully a new opportunity will come out of that,” he said.

Keith said the market plans to continue summer concerts on the Grand and is making plans for a regular food truck rally at the site.

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He said a broad discussion of the market’s future is underway.

Lansing Mayor Andy Schor said in an email that he was disappointed that a long-time institution is leaving.

“Clearly, we have work to do with both vendors and customers in the City Market, and we will work to reactivate this space as an important and vibrant benefit to the Lansing community,” he said.

Glenn Hills said he did have a message for customers.

“The Cheeseman wishes everybody the very best of good luck,” he said.

Judy Putnam is a columnist with the Lansing State Journal. Contact her at (517) 267-1304 or at jputnam@lsj.com. Follow her on twitter @judyputnam.