The new 81-mile Morecambe Bay cycle route offers a scenic, leisurely introduction to long-distance cycling – and, says our northern editor, a great excuse to gorge on the region’s excellent food and drink

I have made stops on bike rides for many reasons – to admire a view, or to have a tantrum, a dip or an emergency sausage roll. But this was the first time I’d taken a break for a meditation session. I had originally intended to visit Conishead Priory near Ulverston for a restorative slice of victoria sponge: this startling gothic-revival country house is home to the World Peace Cafe, which does fabulous and remarkably cheap homemade cake. Then I noticed a sign advertising twice-daily free meditation classes and thought I might as well give one a whirl. When in Cumbria …

There can’t be many ancient priories with a Buddhist temple in the back garden. But in the 1980s, a bunch of peace-loving monks rescued the dilapidated Conishead and turned it into a college for Buddhist studies.

I felt a bit uncomfortable wandering around the temple in my cycling shorts and not exactly box-fresh socks but no one batted an eyelid. And I was tickled to see the very modern offerings left at the shrines: boxes of Twinings tea, cereal bars and a tin of Celebrations.

At 12.30pm a gong sounded and a softly spoken Antipodean skinhead rounded up a handful of us for 15 minutes of silent contemplation. I had to fight the desire to lie down for a nap on the cosy cushions (note to future visitors: if a cushion has a red cloth on it, it’s reserved for ordained nuns and monks only).

The Buddhist temple at Conishead Priory

I made this inner peace pitstop while I was riding the new Morecambe Bay cycleway, which launched in June. It’s an 81-mile route that runs from Glasson Dock, five miles south of Lancaster, all the way around the huge bay to Barrow-in-Furness. Sustrans, which designed and signposted the spectacular ride, suggests tackling it over four days, taking a liberal number of stops to enjoy some of the finest food in the north of England. It’s much quieter, and easier, than cycling in the heart of the Lake District.

The first time I tackled the new cycleway, I cheated and took the train from Arnside to Grange-over-Sands to cut off a corner of the sands. Having now also ridden the long way around, I’d advise anyone in a hurry to take that shortcut – with the usual warning about train companies’ bone-headed attitudes towards bicycles (you can’t book bikes on this route, so you have to take your chances and hope a peloton hasn’t boarded before you). The best bits of the cycleway lie south and west of here, and you’ll save yourself a not particularly memorable 15 miles of meandering through mozzy-plagued salt marsh.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Aynsome Manor Hotel, Cartmel

I cheated because I was going to be late for dinner at Aynsome Manor, a charming country house hotel just outside Cartmel. Less well-known and a little rougher round the edges than the more famous L’Enclume nearby, this family-run hotel does seriously delicious food with old-fashioned but incredibly attentive service. I began with seared king scallops topped with crispy Lakeland pancetta and then grilled fillet of black sea bream with a Chardonnay and onuga (herring roe) cream sauce.

I made the mistake of refilling my boots with a full English breakfast the next morning. A mistake because the biggest hill on the route is from Cartmel to the Bigland Hall Estate. It’s hardly a monster – a climb of about 145 metres – and much easier if tackled from the Cartmel side (there’s a 23.3% – section if you come the other way), but a trial with a bellyful of eggs and bacon nonetheless.

Despite the hills, it’s advisable to take panniers – to fill with goodies from places like the Sticky Toffee Pudding factory in Flookburgh and Furness Fish, supplier of Morecambe Bay potted shrimps, in Grange-over-Sands. On the way back I weighed myself down a with hunk of cheddar from Cartmel Cheeses and three bottles of beer from Unsworth Yard Brewery, also in Cartmel.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest The bar at Carnforth station. Photograph: James Ball

Beer lovers are well catered for on the route. I bumped into an old teacher in Silverdale (hi Mr Alker!), who insisted I call in to the Snug Micropub at Carnforth station, better- known as the filming location for Brief Encounter. This convivial bar is so tiny I couldn’t help but strike up conversations with fellow drinkers, one of whom had brought in some cider from his holidays that the landlord seemed happy for him to pass around.

A mile or two north, at the foot of Warton Crag, is Old School Brewery, which on the second Friday of the month opens as a pub (house-brewed ales £2.50 a pint). When passing through Lancaster, the Sun Hotel and the canalside Waterwitch are decent.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest The Midland Hotel, Morecambe. Alamy Photograph: Alamy

For those riding the route from Barrow (a good idea given the prevailing sea breezes), the restored art deco Midland Hotel in Morecambe makes a classy stop-off, particularly for afternoon tea. I stayed the night, which was a real treat for a Morecambe lass who spent her teenage years knocking about on the prom as the Midland grew ever more dilapidated.

Most of the route is on smooth country lanes, with the exception of a section of towpath between Hest Bank and Carnforth on the Morecambe side, the estuary towpath from Glasson to Lancaster and a mile or so of gravel between Haverthwaite and Greenodd. Grinning and bearing the gravel is preferable to the fast and scary A590.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest The Morecambe Bay cycleway near Levens, Cumbria. Photograph: /Sustrans

The nicest bit is probably the stretch between Ulverston and Grange-over-Sands. Time hasn’t been kind to Barrow, but the stretch from Conishead Priory via Gleaston Watermill is worth exploring — the Watermill has a great licensed cafe plus a converted pig sty dubbed “The Poshest Pig Let in Cumbria”. It is perfect for couples seeking a peaceful retreat, and a fitting overnight stay for a route combining peace and gluttony.

• Download the GPX files for the route at plotaroute.com/route/ 108106. Accommodation was provided by Aynsome Manor Hotel (doubles from £105, half-board including five-course dinner from £90pp, 015395 36653, aynsomemanorhotel.co.uk) and the Midland Hotel (doubles from £116, 01524 424000, englishlakeshotels.co.uk)

• This article was amended on 29 September 2015 to correct the spelling of Warton Crag.

