Stefano Ghisolfi has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's Change 9b+ in Flatanger. Previously, the Italian has done one 9b+ and six 9b's. (c) Sara Grippo

"The battle is over, unexpectedly soon, a mental and physical fight that took me more than one month and two trips to Flatanger, it ended today with a bloodbath lasted more than one hour of climbing to complete the 185 moves and 55m of Change, the very first 9b+ in the world, bolted and climbed only by Adam Ondra in 2012. I feel relieved, tired and happy, and I enjoyed everything it came with this amazing (and frustrating) journey.



It is a King Line, as many routes in the Cave, and it's one of the longest I think. The moves are amazing and the rock too, especially the last meters that are the easiest of the route, the rock is amazing."



Did you do any specific training or replicas back home in Arco prior to your second trip?

I didn't have time. We just stayed one week at home between the two trips. Before the first trip I did some specific training for my shoulders because from Adam's video it was easy to understand that the shoulders were going to hurt.



How much help did you get from Ondra’s video? Did you invent any new beta?

Adam's video helped me with some beta but I found most of the beta on my own because usually Adam's betas don't fit my style. Yes, better beta for me. I did a swing instead of putting high both feet as Adam did, I shared some video to compare my beta with Adam.