The story of western Geisha in Omori kaigan & Oi kaigan

Source: Iamaileen

As requested we are going to take a look into a unique hanamachi in Japan. But a better description would be a hanamachi-duo, the sister districts of Omori kaigan and Oi kaigan in Tokyo. Both districts are incredibly small: Omori hosts around 10 Geisha while the numbers in Oi kaigan are a little harder to determine but i found information on around five to six working Geisha. Both districts are known collectively as the Shinagawa district to karyukai-observers. While researching on Eitaro’s one of a kind career i found some interesting observations: For once Eitaro-san seems to mash both districts together to make the number of active Geisha larger. And secondly neither Omori kaigan nor Oi kaigan have a kenban, they share the ryotei and ochaya for their ozashiki, making for a more intimate working relationship between the Geisha of respective hanamachi. It’s safe to say that the term Shinagawa is the most popular for the observers but the Geisha themselves refer to their respective districts by the terms Oimachi/ Oi kaigan and Omori kaigan. This district is full of surprises and so out of the ordinary in every sense of the word.



But how is Shinagawa operated? Three working okiya (Namiki, Matsunoya and Yoshinoya) recruit the applicants who have to be 18 - 23 years old to debut as a Hangyoku, if older they can absolve a Geisha Minarai stage before their official debut. Younger girls do prefer to start off as a Hangyoku as it adds to their prestige while going through a more thorough training but debutante Geisha are a more common sight in Tokyo. All the okiya in Shinagawa are deeply connected, Eitaro’s mother for example debuted from Yoshinoya before she opened her own okiya and Geisha from both districts entertain together in the Omorichaya, which is also where Sui-san is currently training to become a Geisha. Since there are no kenban for the Geisha to register the transaction of booking a Geisha is handled either by the okasan of the okiya or the ryotei. Tokyo Geisha in general entertain seldom in full regalia but will do so to the wishes of the patrons. To accommodate to modern tastes and spending styles, the option to book a Geisha in casual makeup and kimono is more affordable and still offers the true experience. Matsunoya’s Eitaro is a superstar so his hanadai is higher than those of other Geisha, this being a huge difference to the democratic hanadai traditions of Kyoto, where all Geimaiko earn the same amount for their time at ozashiki. Nonetheless all Geisha of Shinagawa are bound by a codex of trust and discretion, the ultimate qualities of the hanamachi

The very unusual feat of recruiting western Geisha is not unique to Tokyo but has proven a rather successful concept in the city that seemingly exists 10 years in the future, since just a few months ago Sui-san took her first steps in the Geisha world. Still an obscure tradition, there have been a few western Geisha in recent times and probably some undocumented cases in the past but today we are going to look at the western Geisha of Omori kaigan and Oi kaigan.

Kimicho

Now retired, Geisha Kimicho was a darling of the karyukai observers back in 2016 and 2017. The first true American Geisha! She was good looking and open about the Geisha life while being very respectful to the traditions of her district and her sisters. Being from Missouri in the US, her childhood in a small town seemed far removed from her life in the metropolis of Tokyo but this is exactly where the lover of cats and ballet found herself after her studies of Japanese language and the goal of becoming a translator brought her to Japan.

Source: Yoshinoya

After trying to connect with the Geisha of Nagasaki and being rejected, she was determined to at least try to become a Geisha no matter where. So she inquired in many okiya in Niigata, Shizuoka and Tokyo until she got a response from the okasan of the Yoshinoya in Oimachi. Okasan Noboru-san was trying to find a modern approach to her trade and willing to train Kimicho even though it meant many hurdles for both parties. When Kimicho debuted, Oi kaigan had no Hangyoku but two other Minarai Geisha: Kimiho and Kimichyo, who are both still active. The idea of debuting a foreign Geisha was a high risk for the Yoshinoya but in the end it was rewarded as Kimicho received a lot of press and was the bridge to western media. She helped revamp the homepage and launched a charm offensive in many a Youtube video, she was approachable for the members of the Geisha observer community and provided an inside look into the sparsely documented Tokyo karyukai.

Source: Anji Salz on Instagram

She was a breath of fresh air and beloved by everyone as she seemed very determined and dedicated to studying the arts. Sadly the whole delicate construct of “The first American Geisha” all came crashing down one day and she left the profession abruptly. She made it very clear that she would not return to the Geisha world ever again. It was heartbreaking and she is sadly missed to this day.

“You must absolutely ensure that you are ready to work very hard since you will surely make a lot of sacrifices as you train and live as a geisha. If it isn’t something you’re truly passionate about, you might find it a difficult world to live in.” - Kimicho

(Source: Up close & personal with Kimicho)



Sui

It’s always special to follow a Geimaiko’s career. To see them do well and study hard is inspiring to say the least and even though most observers will never have the chance to meet one of their favorite Maiko or Geiko, they still root for them, hope for them to succeed in their endeavors. When we get a glimpse into their training and professional life, it makes them relatable and human and this is such a modern trait, a feature of the social media age. Some Geimaiko and Geisha are very open to this new development and some are very savvy and try to use this new tool to open up to outsiders to make their profession less contrived. Some districts heavily rely on the social media revolution to reach out to new customers as their patrons are getting older and older. And while the patronizing of traditional ochaya is not as popular as it once was, the way of the Geisha is a dream occupation for many young girls. And this is how we come full circle to Sui-san of Omori kaigan.

Source: Sui on Instagram

Sui is a California girl but unlike Kimicho, her look is more in tune with traditional Geisha aesthetics. She has a cute bob and bangs, reminiscent of vintage photos of trainee Geisha, she has big eyes and a lovely smile. And this is how the world met Sui: A smiley girl in a dark Kimono, sitting elegantly on a bench, cradling a Shamisen. Her first post on Instagram was on the day before Christmas and she announced her endeavor to train as a Geisha in Omorichaya under Geisha and okasan Nami-san. Nami is, just like the okasan of Yoshinoya Noburu, a very modern Geisha: Open to first timers and open to tourists, they offer ozashiki for anyone interested in their traditions. Nami-san even provides a translator for foreign guests and they are all present on social media to share some aspects of their professional lives. So naturally, Sui was encouraged to provide a look into her training as well and she does so in both English and Japanese.

And her first steps are very insightful and interesting. How touching it is to read about Nami-san lecturing Sui to drink more water to preserve a healthy skin, to see Sui learn how to pose for the camera in Kimono, to see her baffled by talented Tsuzumi players and in awe of other, more senior Geisha. Such a cute situation when Sui forgetts her Tabi and, to save her, her oneesan hands her sakura-themed socks to wear with her pink kimono… It’s just so ME! Everyone could relate to young Sui-san when confronted with legendary Geisha like Nami, Eitaro and Noburu: Wouldn’t we all blush? This is why she touched me and many others. It’s just the most relatable thing ever.

Sui seems very dedicated to learning the arts of the Geisha and i wish her all the best in her training. I hope she sticks to it and we can see her debut in Oshiroi and Katsura soon. In the meantime we still have her regular posts. In this way Omori is the perfect place for a modern young lady like Sui-san. The district tries to stay relevant for young applicants by giving them the opportunity to live a private life beyond the Insta-filter while still offering a rigid training and passionate teachers who devote their lives to the karyukai.

To Become a Geisha

So summarizing, what do you need to become a Geisha?

Well, i don’t know for sure but there are many factors that seem to play into a westerners chances of becoming a Geisha. A big hurdle is the language: Learn Japanese. Full stop. Learn the culture of entertainment and Omotenashi, concepts that are hard to grasp in many cultures. Learn to dance and play an instrument, at least a few rudimentary skills are necessary to get started. Be passionate about your endeavors and don’t expect much sleep or a lot of private time, every waking moment will be dedicated to self improvement. Lastly, get some connections in the karyukai. Someone to recommend you to an okasan who is willing to take a risk and invest in you. If you get past all these hurdles, Shinagawa might be the only hanamachi to even accept you as they are very progressive and daring. If all fails, you can still follow the successes of other western Geisha and root for them, they deserve our respect and support as they are taking the first steps in a new direction for the flower and willow world.