Gay pick-up behaviour has changed a lot in recent decades. The increasing social recognition of LGBT people and the arrival of new internet dating platforms mean you do not have to go to hidden places, often known only to initiates, to find a potential partner. This has led to changes in how queer spaces manifest themselves, and nowhere more so than in Vienna, with its rich LGBT history.

Stephansplatz

For example, public toilets (also known as tea rooms here) as meeting places have practically disappeared from the gay city map. Until the 1990s, they existed in Vienna along the Ringstrasse and in many underground stations. Today only the one in the Stephansplatz subway station is regularly frequented by gay men.

The city’s parks have also largely lost their significance as cruising places. The Rathauspark used to be overcrowded on warm summer nights, and is referred to in historical documents as a meeting place for gay men. It still is, to an extent, when night falls, and in June the square belongs to the city’s LGBT community, who celebrate on the days before Vienna Pride and the Rainbow Parade. But the park has become, above all, a public space for general interest events, such as the city’s biggest Christmas market. In summer, it hosts a film festival and becomes the largest open-air cinema in Vienna.

It is said that the youngest brother of Emperor Franz Joseph, Archduke Ludwig Viktor (called Luziwuzi), whose homosexuality was an open secret, drove his car twice a week to the Centralbad bathing house, today’s exclusive Kaiserbründl gay sauna. Partly preserved in its original exotic style, the sauna is now a destination for locals and tourists interested not only in architecture but also in physical encounters. Erotic paintings by the Viennese artist Stefan Riedl are a much-loved feature throughout the extensive labyrinth of saunas, steam rooms and cabins.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Turquoise Rosa Lila Villa

The inscription “Lesben- & Schwulenhaus” (Lesbian & Gay House) on the outside of Rosa Lila Villa prompted protests from rightwing politicians in the 1980s. But LGBT rights activists squatting in the building prevailed. With the help of the city government, the house, which had been scheduled for demolition, was turned over to activists and became a hub for the LGBT community. Over time, activism, flat-sharing communities and a restaurant have all found their place under the Villa’s roof.

The cafe of the villa became one of the most important meeting places of the movement and reopened before EuroPride at the beginning of June under the name Villa Vida. With the increased visibility of transgender people in the community and greater fluidity of gender expression, the Rosa Lila Villa has become the Turquoise Rosa Lila Villa to reflect its inclusive ethos.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Cafe Savoy

Cafe Savoy, a corner restaurant opposite the Naschmarkt, is one of the highlights of the Viennese gay scene. Originally called Cafe Wienzeile and populated by heterosexual sex workers, its name was changed with the LGBT takeover. Its two giant mirrors (supposedly the largest in Europe, after Versailles) extend the high room, decorated with marble trompe l’oeil, sweeping chandeliers and candelabras – and also offer a good overview of the guests, because flirting is very common here. Whether it is people dropping in for a chat on Saturday afternoon or an early beer after a day at the office, whether groups of friends or individuals hoping to pair up, the mixture in the Savoy is colourful.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest The Dechantlacke

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Danube Island

With Danube Island and the Danube floodplains, Vienna has a huge recreation area close to the centre of the city that is also used by gay men. Nudist areas, such as the nature reserve Toter Grund on Danube Island and the Dechantlacke on the mainland, are popular meeting places.

Lars van Roosendaal creates urban sketches and illustrations for magazines, books, posters and music albums, as well as art installations in public spaces. These sketches are featured in his solo exhibition Close Encounters, part of Vienna Fetish Spring and EuroPride Vienna 2019, until 16 June. His work can also be found on Instagram and Facebook

Andreas Brunner is a historian and co-director of the QWIEN Centre for Queer History

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