I like a chewy texture: the toothsome type found in udon noodles, Jelly Tots, dates, sticky rice, bagels and pasta. It is, I think, why I am a recent convert to farro, an ancient species of wheat. It has a joyful little bounce about it and a good, nutty flavour. Farro makes a deceptively simple meal, too, as in this tomato dish, while also being elegant and mysterious at the same time. It’s a useful tool in any cook’s cupboard, not just as a vehicle to get summer vegetables to the table, but also when you need a good “bite” to eat.

Tomato farro with summer greens and fresh oregano

Most big supermarkets stock farro, but buy the “pearled” or “quick cooking” sort, or it will take twice as long to cook. You can use good-quality dried oregano instead of fresh, if need be, but I like the floral, woody flavour of the fresh leaves (if you have any left over, hang them out to dry, then pop in a jar).

Prep 10 min

Cook 45 min

Serves 4

Olive oil, plus extra-virgin olive oil, to finish

1 red onion, peeled and finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced

400g cherry vine tomatoes, halved

½ tsp chilli flakes

Salt

250g farro

600ml vegetable stock (suitable for vegans)

1 handful fresh oregano leaves, roughly chopped (or 1½ tsp dried oregano)

200g Tenderstem broccoli

150g mangetout

200g baby courgettes, (ie, about 6), halved lengthways

½ tbsp lemon juice

Heat two tablespoons of olive oil in a large pan on a medium flame and, when hot, sweat the onion, stirring from time to time, until soft and just about to brown. Add the garlic, cook, stirring, for two minutes, then add the tomatoes, cover the pan and cook until they break down – about six to eight minutes.

Add the chilli, half a teaspoon of salt, the farro and a quarter of the stock, then leave to bubble away, until the stock reduces down. Add a little more stock, stir very gently and reduce again. Repeat, adding the stock bit by bit, until it’s all used up – after about 20 minutes, the farro should be tender, all the stock should be absorbed, and you should be able to run a wooden spoon across the bottom of the pan without any liquid running. Turn off the heat, stir in the oregano, cover and leave to rest.

In a wide frying pan, heat a tablespoon of olive oil on a high flame and, when hot, put in the broccoli in a single layer. Leave to cook for two minutes, add two tablespoons of water, turn, cook for two minutes more, then tip on to a plate. Drizzle a little more oil into the same pan, add the mangetout, cook for a minute on each side, then tip on to the broccoli plate. Add a little more oil to the pan and cook the courgettes for two minutes, turning them halfway. Turn off the heat, tip the vegetables back into the pan and season with half a teaspoon of salt and half a tablespoon of lemon juice.

Distribute the farro between four plates, pile the vegetables on top, and drizzle with your best extra-virgin olive oil.