Since opening nearly 14 years ago, Rama's Kitchen has been an ideal haven from the rigors of everyday city life. Located in Nataf, not far from Abu Ghosh in the Judean hills, this is a place so full of charm that merely being here will relax even the most hard-hearted of curmudgeons.

The road to the restaurant is tucked into an exquisite forest and once you arrive, you are exposed to an exquisite panoramic view of the surrounding mountains, wadis and villages. Adjoining the closed-in terrace that houses the restaurant is a beautifully tended plant nursery and, if you look up, you can't miss the hawks swooping overhead. Even the dogs that come by from time to time are a friendly part of this enchanting restaurant.

Rama Ben-Tzvi has a passion for local meat and produce as well as for the Arab cooking style that is predominant in the area. Many of the herbs and vegetables the restaurant serves come from its own garden, the flour is hand-ground in a nearby village, and even the eggs come from chickens raised free range in the nearby hills. The cooking style is an authentic blend of Arab and Provencal, and much of the food is prepared in a large tabun oven. The offerings are described on a short but fascinating menu.

The first thing to make it to our table was a basket of freshly baked bread that tasted rich, grainy and delicious. The bread came with a truly special garlic-rich spread made from potatoes rather than eggs or mayonnaise, as well as Syrian olives full of spice and rich in flavor, and a small and tasty salad based on finely chopped coriander leaves in a light lemon-based vinaigrette. The garlic spread was good enough that we requested three refills.

Then it was on to a smooth soup with tiny cubes of soft Jerusalem artichokes. Topped with a sprinkling of sumac, the soup was bursting with flavor and frankly delicious. Truth be told, I could easily have made a full meal out of nothing but the soup, bread and garlic spread, but we managed to bear up and continue with the main course.

My companion opted for lamb kebabs, each wrapped firmly around part of a licorice plant root. The meat was just firm enough and, wisely, just barely seasoned, allowing the natural flavor of the licorice to make itself felt nicely. I could not help but reflect as I sucked a bit on the roots after finishing off the meat that such roots are thought by many to have almost godlike healing powers. In fact, the pharaohs of ancient Egypt were often buried with a few of these because the Egyptians thought it helped them cross from one life to another. Mythology aside, the dish also made me smile because of its gentle yet complex flavors.

As good as that dish was, my own choice - tortellini that had been stuffed with oxtail meat - was even better. The pasta was just firm enough, and the shredded meat in its rich brown sauce would be pleasing to any carnivore. Nor did I fail to enjoy the creamed sweet potatoes, which were just sweet enough and made a lovely match to the pasta dish.

Being adventurous souls, we went on to share yet another main course, the deep-sea fish known as croaker (but sometimes as meager). Prepared in the tabun and served with its skin crisp and flesh succulent, the fish was gently sprinkled with a mustard vinaigrette and black currants, accompanied by young crisp asparagus. Eaten with a salad of fresh garden greens, roasted pistachio nuts and candied almonds, the dish brought forth yet another sigh of satisfaction.

After a short stroll to enjoy the fresh air, we returned to dessert, ordering a soft and creamy chocolate mousse accompanied by lavender-flavored ice cream, and pistachio ice cream with a ginger cookie and candied nuts. Each of the desserts was light, flavorful and refreshing.

A bill for two that includes any two of the main courses we sampled will come to about NIS 420. The wine list, largely of Israeli wines, is short but good, and offers an interesting variety at reasonable prices. Because I had just come from a wine tasting, we enjoyed our meal with icy cold beers, each of which adds NIS 24 to the bill. Great fun, a marvelous view and enormously pleasing food make Rama's Kitchen a worthwhile destination, no matter which part of the country you live in.

Rama's Kitchen (Hamitbach Shel Rama): Nataf (in the Judean hills). Open Thurs. 6 P.M.-10 P.M. and Fri. 10 A.M.-2 P.M. and 6 P.M.-10 P.M. Tel. (02) 570-0954.