Two men with the same cut can end up with two entirely different hairstyles, which they tailor to their work, their cultural affinities, and of course their lifestyle. It might sound overwrought, but your hairstyle—as a component of your appearance—is necessarily part of the message you send to the world. Do you pick a matte styler, applied dry, for a laid-back, textured look? Or do you opt instead for a shiny product, combed through your towel-dried hair for a sleek, sophisticated finish?

Now, most of the fashion world, GQ included, leaned prominently toward matte products in the past decade—gone were the spiked tips and gelled curls of the late 90s boy-band era and the hard shine of the early 2000s metrosexual. If you look back through the GQ covers in recent years, the cover stars sport mostly dry-looking quaffs and matte, natural fades.

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But in 2017, shine is making a comeback. We owe a little credit to Don Draper for this resurgence, but it’s not the pomade-heavy, slicked-over Mad Men styles that are tiptoeing back into fashion. Instead, it’s a combination of old-school influence, mixed with the last decade of textured, beach-friendly styles. It's emphasis is definition: Texture is key to any style, and a bit of shine further emphasizes yours by catching the light at any angle. You don’t need to overdo it on the luster, though: The healthiest glow is usually a humble one.

That said, textured matte styles are still as popular as ever (so don't discard your fibers and waxes just yet!). There's a styling spectrum out there. And it's up to every guy to decide for himself which side of the debate he'll fall on. In an effort to clarify the options in front of you, we've categorized every type of product you need to know about. Then we'll help you figure out which one is best for you.

The most common shiny stylers:

Cream: In damp, towel-dried hair, cream gives you a medium shine with a light hold that tames strays.

Traditional pomade: The word “pomade” is often interchangeable with “styler” these days—you’ll see “clay pomades” and “wax pomades” which often aren’t hybrids at all. Here, we’re talking about the classic stuff—shiny and lightweight, and combed into damp, towel-dried hair. The result is a Wall-Street slickness with medium hold.

Oil: Rarely will you use hair oil on its own, unless you’ve got long hair and need to tame strays. However, you can put a drop or two into your cream or paste to get a higher shine and definition, without altering hold. Best of all, most oils are made with nourishing, fortifying ingredients.

Gel: With gel, you get slip-n-slide shimmer with a solid grip. Think Eric and Don Jr. (Shiver.) Obviously, apply it into towel-dried hair.

The most common matte products:

Wax: Use wax sparingly, or else your hair will clump together with a nice melted-candle shine. A dime-size amount in dry hair will give you medium hold with a pinch of shine.

Fiber: Used in dry hair, you’ll get high hold without shine.

Products that can do both:

Paste: When applied to damp, towel-dried hair, paste will dry with a minimal sheen and a flexible hold. When applied to dry hair, you’ll get lightweight texture with the subtlest of shine.

Clay: You'll get high hold and medium shine when applying clay to towel-dried hair. However, when used in dry hair, both of those levels go down a notch: You will instead get medium hold and low shine.

Here’s how to know which type of styler—that is, matte or shiny—is best for you:

If you have short hair: Go matte. If your hair is too short to comb, shiny products might make it look greasy. So, stick with a matte styler with anything shorter than two(ish) inches. GQ recommends: Wax

If you’re going for “carefree”: Go matte. While some guys can pull off a slick, bad-boy look with their t-shirt and torn jeans, we suggest keeping things simpler: Go for a tousled, artfully unaffected look, perfect going from a casual brunch to a full-on afternoon rager. GQ recommends: Fiber

If you’re buttoned up at work: Get shiny. You needn’t go for a gelled-back businessman look, but a light shine will match your swagger. GQ recommends: A cream + oil combo

If you’re “business casual” every day: Stay shiny. Even on weekends, err on the “business” side of this spectrum, and showcase a hint of sheen. Think of it this way: If you’re styling with a comb instead of your fingers, use one of the shiny products. GQ recommends: Paste, combed into towel-dried hair

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