By Camille Bautista

Contributing writer

Once a booming cash crop in Central New York, hops are making a return to Madison County, with historians and hop enthusiasts eager to celebrate the comeback.

The 17th annual Madison County Hop Fest pays homage to the key beer ingredient, bringing beer lovers, foodies and farmers together for a three-day event hosted by the county’s historical society.

Sydney Loftus, executive director of the Madison County Historical Society, said the fest’s guided tours, guest speakers and food offerings aim to foster an understanding and appreciation of the hop industry.

“We feel that it isn’t one of the cookie-cutter beer fests that are out there,” Loftus said. “We remain true to why this event happens: raising awareness of hop culture in Madison County. It goes so far back and there’s a wonderful future.”

In 1806, Massachusetts native John Coolidge planted New York state’s first recorded hop crop in Bouckville. Eighty years later, Madison County, along with Otsego and Oneida counties, produced more than 80 percent of the nation’s hops.

Prohibition and disease put a halt to the crop’s success, but Madison County has seen significant progress in beginning to restore its prominence during the last decade, said Steve Miller, New York’s first hop specialist. Ten years ago, only two people in the state grew hops commercially. Now, there are four to five growers in Madison County alone.

Those attending Hop Fest can learn more about commercial growing during a talk by Miller during the event.

The festivities kick off on Friday with a paired beer dinner at Ye Olde Landmark Tavern in Bouckville. Craft brewers will hold demonstrations and tastings Saturday at the county historical society grounds, along with guest speakers, exhibits and the coronation of the hop king and queen.

The fest concludes on Sunday with a tour of the county’s hop houses. Proceeds from paid-admission events will benefit the Madison County Historical Society’s educational programming.

Carrie Blackmore and Matt Whalen, owners of Good Nature Brewing in Hamilton, will be crowned this year’s hop king and queen. The couple uses locally grown hops and ingredients for their brews, which will be featured in tents on the event ground, as well as Taste of Hops, a food and beer pairing with local restaurants.

Chocolatier Lune Chocolat is a new participant offering beer-filled chocolate. Longtime supporters include Colgate Inn, Hamilton Inn, Poolville Country Store and Sherwood Inn, serving appetizers like pulled pork lollipops and beef dim sum.

“I’m pretty thrilled to be part of this,” Blackmore said. “Hop Fest is really special. People like knowing more about where they’re (beers are) from, and feel better enjoying a product of their own.”

If you go ...

What: 17th annual Madison County Hop Fest

When: Friday, Saturday, Sunday

Where: Madison County Historical Society, 435 Main St., Oneida

Details: Free exhibits and demonstrations, a paired beer dinner ($50), food and beer pairing ($20 advance, $25 at the door), craft beer sampling ($25 advance, $30 at the door) and hop kiln tour ($56). Visit mchs1900.org/hopfest for event times and related information.