There’s barbecue, low and slow, and then there’s grilling, hot and quick. Now, both methods meet in an unusual approach taken by Cenobio Canalizo, the chef at Morgan’s Brooklyn Barbecue . The result is smoked steak, so delicious that it made me wonder why anyone would cook a steak any other way. The steak, a boneless prime New York strip, is smoked with a dusting of smoked salt for about 20 minutes in a regular smoker alongside brisket and ribs. Then the steak is set aside. Later, to order, it’s finished on the grill and served sliced with more smoked salt. The meat has a subtle, alluring woodsy char in its aroma and flavor. Mr. Canalizo said the method would work for a bone-in steak and, with about 45 minutes in the smoker, a double porterhouse or rib-eye. Try it at home.

Smoked steak , $33 for 14 ounces, Morgan’s Brooklyn Barbecue, 267 Flatbush Avenue (St. Marks Avenue), Prospect Heights, Brooklyn, 718-622-2224, morgansbrooklynbarbecue.com.