To make use of the fixed output voltages of the PSU (3.3V, 5v, 12v and -12V) we just need to connect some wires. Ofcourse we will add a switch, some indicator LED's and connectors to make it really useable.

Always make sure to use heat shrink tubing and tape where possible, we don't want short circuits.

* The first step is to cut off all connectors and bundle the wires of the same color. I recommend opening the case to blow out all the dust, but as mentioned before: be careful! Try not to touch the components and certainly don't touch the leads of the big capacitors!

* Take the switch and attach the green wire to one leg, and a black wire to the other leg. I used cable connectors, but you could just solder it.

* Now solder the resistors to the anode (long leg) of the LED's and add heath shrink tubing. Next, solder both cathodes (short legs) to a black wire. Solder the purple wire to the resistor coming from the red LED anode and the grey wire to the resistor coming from the green LED anode. (Look at the schematic)

* We also need to add a dummy load: a 10 Ohm 10 W power resistor. Simply solder it between a red and black wire coming from the PSU and make sure to insulate the connections. Attach it to a heatsink (or the PSU itself), because it gets hot!

* For the power wires, take a look at the schematic for a detailed overview. The basic idea is (“>” = 1 wire):

GND >>>> Banana >> Header

3.3V >>> Fuse (5A) holder >> Banana > Header (2 orange wires and the brown sensing wire)

5V >>> Fuse (5A) holder >> Banana > Header (2 red wires and the pink sensing wire)

12V >> Fuse (5A) holder >> Banana > Header

-12V > Fuse (1.5A) holder > Banana > Header

Variable > Fuse (1.5A) holder > Banana > Header

5V > Fuse (5A) holder > USB port positive side

* Add cable connectors to the 3.3V, 5V, 12V and -12V wires coming from the PSU and attach them to one side of the fuse holder. Again, you could just solder them together. Do the same with a short wire that will be connected to the variable circuit in the next step. 4 black wires can directly be connected to a banana terminal.

* Now we need wires that connect our fuses to the banana terminals. Take wires of about 5 cm and add cable connectors to both ends of the wire. You could also simply solder them together.

You can cut off pieces from the PSU wires, they should be long enough.

* Next we will prepare the header pins. Take a strip of perfboard (prototyping board) and place the headers on regular intervals. Take 2 header strips for ground. Now solder them to the perfboard. The perfboard makes it possible to easily mount them inside a case, and to ensure an even spacing.

* Now solder the banana terminals to the headers with a wire of about 5cm.

* Solder the usb port on some perfboard and add a screw terminal. Connect a black wire from the PSU to one side. Connect the other side to the fuse. Make sure to check your connection here before plugging in a USB device! Compare it (with a multimeter) to a USB wall adapter you have laying around.

I used 2 wires per color, which should give me enough current. If you want more current, use more powerful fuses and more wires. It is very important to attach the brown wire (3.3V sensing) to the orange wires (3.3V) you use! Also connect the pink wire (5V sensing) to the red wires (5V).

I also made some crocodile clips that fit in the headers. Simply connect a male header pin to the crocodile clip using a length of wire.

Now your PSU should be working. The only thing left to do is add the variable output and make a case for it!