Gabriela Hearst likes to say that she wouldn’t be a fashion designer if she didn’t understand the subtle ways in which a female body can shape-shift over the course of a day — how a woman’s waist, for example, can fluctuate in size between morning and evening. That may sound like a surprisingly unglamorous concern for a luxury clothing brand, but Hearst’s namesake label, which she founded in New York City in 2015, is remarkable not only for its attention to high-level craft and luxurious materials — including merino wool sheared from sheep reared on the 17,000-acre ranch she inherited in 2011 from her father in her native Uruguay — but also for her minute focus on how her clothes, whether a figure-skimming, graphic-printed knit dress or an ankle-length trench, make women feel. As Hearst, 43, sees it, “It’s an upside to be a woman designing for women.”

How, then, does she approach her latest undertaking — designing clothes for men? In May of last year, Hearst presented a small pre-fall men’s collection of chunky speckled wool sweaters and slate gray tailoring, and in July, she followed with a 23-style resort offering of lightweight powder-blue and putty-colored suiting, as well as crew-neck knits in off-kilter pastel shades like faded butter yellow or dusty lilac. Though many of the pieces are crafted by a family-owned tailoring company in Parma, Italy, and though there are sporty elements (an ivory cashmere polo shirt, a suede bomber jacket the color of wet sand), they don’t fall neatly into either of the two major categories that define contemporary men’s clothing: streetwear and suiting. Rather, Hearst’s collections offer considered, well-crafted everyday clothes for modern professional men — a niche filled by Jil Sander in the late 1990s and rarely since. A collaborator in the venture is the British graphic designer Peter Miles, whom Hearst has been working with since he created the brand’s logo six years ago, and whose personal style she has long admired. “There’s an ease to the way he dresses — and an elegance, but it’s not pompous or ostentatious,” Hearst says. Still, though Miles provides occasional knowledge of the technical details of men’s clothing (he has been a client of the same Spitalfields tailor since 1993) and can offer feedback from a wearer’s perspective, Hearst relies heavily on her imagination.