Thanks in large part to these small producers, other Champagne shibboleths have fallen by the wayside. In the old narrative, good Champagne was said to come from three major regions: the Montagne de Reims, the Vallée de la Marne and the Côte des Blancs. A fourth, the Aube, was good only for supplying grapes to the big houses. Now, we understand that Aube itself can be a great source for wonderful wines.

Similarly, of the three main grapes, chardonnay and pinot noir were said to be the best, with pinot meunier an afterthought, good for adding light fruitiness and pleasant aromas but rustic on its own. Again, thanks to the grower-producers, we now know better.

As many wine lovers have embraced the small producers, predictably some have wholly rejected the big houses.

“While great wines are available from the Grand Marques, it’s good to be reminded that these are generic wines, sourced from every part of Champagne to create a consistent style,” wrote Steven Baker of Eugene, Ore. “The real charm of Champagne today lies in the grower’s revolution.”

I believe you can find wonderful wines in both styles. While good grower Champagnes will generally be more distinctive, the best big houses have the resources to create blends that small growers cannot match. I recommended three entry-level nonvintage Champagnes from the big houses because I thought they would be easier to find, and because I think each is excellent. Compared with one another, the three styles are quite distinctive.

The Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve is fresh, robust and slightly toasty, with great finesse and deep waxy, chalky flavors that persist. It has great character and is one of my favorites, though sadly, Thierry Roset, the man behind the wines, died in October at the too-young age of 55.

By contrast, the Pol Roger Réserve Brut was more delicate, chiseled and precise, with a touch of spicy ginger. The Louis Roederer Brut Premier was somewhere in the middle, energetic and graceful, a little more substantial than the Pol Roger but not as voluminous as the Heidsieck, with an occasional whiff of fresh bread. House styles? Perhaps, and nothing wrong with it. Small producers also have personal styles, circumscribed by their methods and intentions, even if the wines vary more year to year. Though from big houses, these Champagnes are made with integrity, as the results demonstrate.