Beer Man: Devil's Backbone lives up to name

Todd Haefer, The (Appleton, Wis.) Post-Crescent | The (Appleton, Wis.) Post-Crescent

Beer Man is a weekly profile of beers from across the country and around the world.

This week: Devil's Backbone

Real Ale Brewing Co., Blanco, Texas

realalebrewing.com

I feel that it takes real backbone to use the name "devil" for any beer -- it conjures expectations of beastly alcohol strength and outrageous flavors, or at the least, a beer that stands way out from the pack.

Even though the Real Ale Brewing Co. is referring to a local ridge with its Devil's Backbone beer, I am satisfied that it meets the requirement for demonic monikers. This sample was another Texas treat provided by my Fort Worth sister-in-law in July.

The 8.1% ABV ale is a Belgian-style tripel, one that is confusing to people who think light-colored beers are weaker in alcohol strength than dark ones. Belgian tripels are usually golden colored and stronger than the dark Belgian dubbels.

What really struck me about Devil's Backbone was its strong apricot flavor. There is no fruit in the beer -- the flavor is the result of the reaction between the Belgian yeast, malts and possibly the candi sugar that is used. Belgian beers are always a delight because of this, with some tending toward cherry, apple or other fruits.

The ale fits the profile of an authentic tripel by having a crisp yet creamy golden body, sweetness that was not overpowering and a somewhat dry finish with no noticeable alcohol in the aftertaste. A nice caramel background was present, though it's hard to say whether it was from the candi sugar, caramel malt or both. A bit of banana-clove esters were present, reminiscent of a weiss beer, but not as prominent.

There is good news and bad news about Devil's Backbone -- it is a year-round offering by Real Ale; however, it is only available in Texas. This is the downside to writing a nationally syndicated beer column. However, if I could find an acquaintance to bring me samples of it, possibly others could, too. It is definitely worth the effort.

I am enjoying sampling U.S. recreations of Belgian styles, especially now that the import prices can be as high as $20 for a four-pack or $12-$15 for a 750 ml. Devil's Backbone is a good one.

Many beers are available only regionally. Check the brewer's website,

which often contains information on product availability. Contact Todd

Haefer at beerman@postcrescent.com. To read previous Beer Man columns Click here.