Saturday

5. ­Market Find, 10 a.m.

The chaos of the Capo street market — singsong calls of vendors hawking goods to the jostling crowd, bloody sides of beef strung up for sale, scooters weaving through the packed lanes — will wake you up faster than any espresso can. After getting an eyeful, slip past the ramshackle stalls and into the Chiesa dell’Immacolata Concezione al Capo, an easily missed trove of Baroque workmanship (admission, 1 euro). The plain exterior of this 17th-century church gives no hint of the magnificence waiting inside: beautiful bas-reliefs, dazzling frescoes, marble statues and intricately inlaid walls that are more amazing given the market disarray right outside.

6. ­Lunch With Locals, Noon

For four decades, the Corona family has presided over Vini del Paradiso, a lunch-only osteria frequented by multigenerational families and groups of well-groomed men who resemble extras from a Mafioso movie. Arrive early to secure one of the few tables inside the charmingly spartan space decorated with yellowed photos of former popes. There are no menus, so the proprietor will suggest specials, the best of which feature seafood, like roasted calamari, swordfish-studded caponata, and spaghetti with anchovies and toasted breadcrumbs. Lunch for two, about 30 euros (cash only).

7. ­Golden Oldies, 2 p.m.

Whether it’s your first trip or your tenth, a visit to Palermo isn’t complete without a stop at Palazzo dei Normanni, the royal palace. The refurbished palm-tree-shaded gardens of the neighboring Villa Bonanno now make the walk there more pleasant, as would a route past the city’s grandiose cathedral in all its Norman-Moorish-Gothic-neo-Classical glory. First-timers should proceed directly to the Cappella Palatina, the gilded chapel of the Norman Kings, to marvel at the golden Byzantine mosaics (admission, 10 euros). Others may prefer to check out a temporary exhibition on the first floor, which recently hosted a blockbuster crucifixion-themed show by the Colombian artist Fernando Botero.

8. ­Let Them Eat Torta, 4:30 p.m.

For proof that the canon of Sicilian desserts extends far beyond the sweet-ricotta-filled cannolo and cassata, visit Pasticceria Cappello, a pastry shop on a run-down street behind the palace. Don’t miss the torta setteveli, a cake native to the city featuring seven chocolately, hazelnutty layers. Or if you prefer frozen sweets, head to Al Gelatone. This colorful gelato shop scoops dozens of artisanal variations, like watermelon granita, lemon-basil sorbetto, and toasted-almond and pistachio gelato offered Sicilian-style, in a sweet brioche bun.

9. ­­Sicilian Theatrics, 8 p.m.

The grand ocher sandstone facade of Teatro Massimo, flanked by palms, will be familiar to cinephiles: The final scenes of “The Godfather Part III” played out on the theater’s steps. But now, after decades marred by budget problems and corruption charges, Italy’s largest opera house is building a reputation for the performances staged inside. The new year will usher in a new season of ballets, concerts and, of course, operas, including Wagner’s “Götterdämmerung” and Verdi’s “Attila.” Tickets from 12 euros.

10. ­Street Eats, 10 p.m.

Palermo’s diverse street food — from arancine (fried rice balls) to stigghiola (barbecued intestines) — is legendary. For variety and a modicum of comfort, head to Nni Franco u’ Vastiddaru, a street-food restaurant with plastic tables and chairs on an adjacent piazza. The specialty is panelle, rectangular fritters of chickpea flour, served on a seeded bun. Pair that with the fritti misti, a mix of arancine and croquettes, or the pani ca’ meusa, a cheesy spleen sandwich. Dinner for two, about 20 euros.

11. ­United We Drink, 11:30 p.m.

The craft-beer-and-creative-cocktail trend has yet to land on Sicily’s shores, but Bar Garibaldi proves that’s not needed for a fun late-night drink. Named after a central figure in the unification of what was then the Kingdom of Italy, the divey hangout brings together an eclectic crowd — everyone from students to hard-drinking communists. Order a Negroni at the bar, find a seat in the back amid propaganda posters and shelves of left-leaning literature, and enjoy the music and sociable atmosphere.