Ryan Cormier

The News Journal

Welcome to Trolley Tap House, where beers are never served in a bucket and ear-rattling DJs need not apply.

Less than two months after Trolley Square's only sports bar, C. R. Hooligans, closed its doors, its owners have unveiled a more mature replacement: a craft beer bar with a more refined palate.

Curious beer-drinkers with good timing found the Wilmington bar open Tuesday evening after general manager Patrick Jones swung open the doors to the 105-person bar for an unannounced soft opening.

Within a few hours, more than 50 people were tasting craft beers from the bar's massive walk-in keg box, which houses the 29 craft beers on tap. (Since two beer lines still run into Catherine Rooney's banquet room next door, Trolley Tap House will also offer Yuengling and Miller Lite for the time being.)

Instead of Hooligans' more casual fare of run-of-the-mill offerings like mozzarella sticks, nachos and cheesesteaks, diners grazed on cheese plates ($13), pork belly cassoulet ($14.50) and tricked-out hot dogs, like the "Cuban," which comes wrapped in bacon with Swiss cheese, pickles and a strong ale mustard ($8.50).

Donovan Brown is Trolley Tap House's executive chef, after holding similar positions at the Newark locations of Two Stones Pub and Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant in the past.

After polishing off one of the more interesting menu items -- a peanut butter-and-jelly hamburger with a house peanut sauce and red onion jam ($10.50) -- Wilmington's Mike McDowell summed up his experience Tuesday: "I feel like Trolley Square is growing up right along with me," he said in between sips of Allagash Interlude, a 9.5 percent ABV ale.

With an influx of more exotic food offerings in Wilmington's go-to bar district in recent years thanks to the addition of spots like Satsuma Asian Kitchen & Bar and El Diablo Burritos, along with re-vamped menus at mainstays like Kid Shelleen's, Trolley Square is maturing before our eyes.

On Tuesday, C.R. Hooligan's collegiate blue-and-gold vibe, wing-eating contests and hefty 25-ounce beer mugs were already a distant memory.

Joe McCoy, owner of Catherine Rooney's and Trolley Tap House, says time was right for a change due to increased competition over the years.

Plus, he says, "If you look at sports bars, you're doing $2 this, $1 that and .45-cent wings. You have a full house and then you look at the register and there's not much money in there. Craft beer lovers know what they cost and are willing to pay -- you don't have to highly discount them."

McCoy says he is already in talks with competitors like Kelly's Logan House, Satsuma and Añejo Mexican Grill and Tequila Bar to make Trolley Square the craft beer destination for Delaware through possible collaborative bar tours since the restaurants are all within a few blocks.

Old Hooligans customers will do a double-take when they see the Tap House for the first time.

Sure, the low ceilings are still there, but the front wall has been blown out and replaced with a pair of 10-by-7 garage doors, which open to a newly-raised outdoor patio along Delaware Avenue.

Trolley Tap House's industrial design, curated by Wilmington-based interior designer Erin Marshall, with steel diamond plating on portions of the floor and caged light bulbs show no signs of the location's past bright sports-themed design, which many found to be downright hokey.

Jones says Trolley Tap House will open at 5 p.m. Wednesday, Thursday and Friday this week before opening for its first lunch on Saturday. A proper grand opening is still being scheduled for the coming weeks, he says. No live music is being planned for now.

Even as Jones rallies his new staff and buzzes around the new restaurant that he helped create and design, he still can't hide his disdain for one element of his sleek new tavern.

Looking at the pair of taps that house the bar's only two non-craft beers like they are his mortal enemies, Jones can only shake his head.

He can't help but think it takes away from the slick, silver walk-in cooler that was built behind the bar to house the taphouse's most precious cargo: high-end craft beer.

"Those two I don't talk about," he says, refusing to even say the words Yuengling or Miller Lite. "If they weren't still hosting banquets over there, I was this close to having my way."

-- Ryan Cormier, The News Journal. Facebook: @ryancormier. Twitter: @ryancormier. Instagram: @ryancormier.