I recently spent a memorable, sun-soaked few days in and around Marseille. The cooking was gutsy, with bold ingredients such as garlic, anchovies and olives appearing lavishly, ensuring that I was always coming back for more. I particularly loved the Italian influence from just up the coastline – this mussel pasta was a particular favourite. It is a feast for four, but also makes for an amorous dinner à deux.

Linguine with grilled mussels and garlic crumbs



The smell of the toasted, garlicky breadcrumbs as the grilled mussels emerge is a sensation.

Prep 15 min

Cook 35 min

Serves 4

200g linguine

10ml rapeseed oil

400g mussels, bearded and scrubbed

clean

100ml white wine

20ml extra-virgin olive oil

2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped

1 pinch dried chilli flakes

100ml double cream

For the garlic crumbs

30g butter

1 garlic clove, peeled and grated

2 handfuls parsley leaves, one roughly chopped, 1 finely chopped, to serve

40g fresh white breadcrumbs

Boil the linguine in a pan of salted water until al dente, drain, reserve a cup of the cooking liquid, then run the pasta under cold water until cool and set aside.

Put a very wide pan for which you have a lid over a high heat and add the rapeseed oil. When smoking hot, empty in the mussels, cover and cook for a minute, then pour in the wine. Cover again and steam for a few minutes until the mussels are just beginning to open – you are going to cook them again, so they need to be juicy when you take them off the heat. As they open, scoop them out with a slotted spoon into a sieve, re-covering the pan and giving it a shake in between. Reserve the cooking liquor.

Leave to cool, discard any unopened mussels, removing half a shell from each of the rest. Lay out the mussels on one or two baking sheets in a single layer. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in the mussel pan, add the shallots and chilli, season well and fry gently, until soft. Add the cooking liquors and cream, then reduce the sauce until it coats the back of a wooden spoon.

To make the breadcrumbs, melt the butter in a small frying pan over a medium-high heat and, when it is sizzling gently, add the garlic, parsley and breadcrumbs. Fry for a minute or two to cook out the rawness of the garlic, then season with salt and pepper. Use a teaspoon to top the mussels with the breadcrumbs.

Heat a grill to its highest setting and grill the mussels until golden and smelling delicious. Toss the pasta in the wine and shallot sauce, then transfer to wide, shallow bowls and top with the grilled mussels and a scattering of parsley.

And for the rest of the week

If there are only two of you, consider omitting the pasta and just doing the grilled mussels – serve with crusty bread, a crisp, green salad and some crudites and anchoïade for a thoroughly French experience. The breadcrumbs are also wonderful on any stuffed, roasted vegetables such as aubergines, courgettes and peppers.

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