The Royal Albatross mini museum

The free-entry mini museum of the Royal Albatross Centre tells the story of the world’s albatross with interactive maps and information boards. Specimens also show not only the size of the world’s largest seabirds, but the effects of long-line fishing which is a huge threat to royal albatross. The displays also give an overview of the Otago Peninsula’s other residents, such as the New Zealand fur seals and the little blue penguins (both of which we are hopefully going to spot tonight)!

The fascinating life of the Southern Royal Albatross

Our guide for the royal albatross tour, Suzanne, comes to collect us from the grasps of the museum and takes us into a room with more information boards. One of which is a year in the life of the southern royal albatross. It’s easy to be in awe of the royal albatross just thanks to its size and face with a stern expression, but once we learn about the connection between breeding pairs – how they can be apart for a whole year circling Antarctica, travelling 1,000km a day, to land back on Taiaroa Head within days of each other. Both parents take it in turns to gather food over a few days to feed their chick (and themselves) while the other one nests on the vulnerable chick. The process is so tough that the birds have a year off between breeding.

Misunderstood seagulls

The presentation is ended with a short video on the history of Taiaroa Head and the northern royal albatross. Now that we are educated enough, we head up to the viewing area of the royal albatross. However, we don’t get there quickly thanks to the endangered red-billed gull colony just off the footpath. Wait, seagulls are endangered?! New Zealand’s native seagulls, the very ones that stole our chips back in Whitianga, are actually dropping in number at an alarming pace. We now have to wipe the tears from our eyes as we watch a couple of spotted chicks cowering under their mothers’ body. Be safe, seagulls, be safe!

Watching the royal albatross show!

Getting close to the world’s largest seabird

Suzanne takes us into a viewing room built into the headland. Through the narrow windows, we are blown away by the sight. About a dozen humongous albatross can be seen doing all sorts of different things: some nesting, others gathered in small groups following each other from the grassy head up into the air, catching some wind for a quick flight, then landing in the same spot, then there will be the odd couple engaging in some sort of mating ritual which involves pulling the grass with their beaks and bringing their beaks together. We are viewing the royal albatross during their mating and laying season.

The history of Taiaroa Head

Nothing prepares us for how close we get to this colony. We feel so lucky to be watching this albatross show (and feel so sorry for Suzanne who has to pry us away from the viewing area to take us to the next one). The next viewing area is where the military history of Taiaroa Head comes into play, because the viewing area is actually part of the fort installed into the head in 1885 with the threat of a Russian invasion. As we walk through the tunnels of this military battery, seeing models of weapons and other military relics, Suzanne explains how Taiaroa Head was once home to 100 people. In fact, albatross didn’t start colonising on Taiaroa Head until the 1938!

From the second viewing area, we get a closer look at two nesting albatross who are looking calm and collected.

From disappearing guns to disappearing burgers

After a tour of the battery, complete with mannequin scenes of how soldiers used to live up here to an actual 6 Inch Rifled Breech Loading Hydro-Pneumatic Armstrong Disappearing Gun (just try to say that three times in a row!), we are finishing our tour back in the Royal Albatross Centre. We have a couple of hours to spare before the little blue penguins make an appearance, so we treat ourselves to a burger in the cafe, watching the albatross still making use of the wind from the large windows of the cafe.