By Lily Templeton

For his first show "after Hermès," Christophe Lemaire chose the Bibliothèque François Mitterand, the newest compound of the national library whose contemporary verticalities shocked when it was erected. A lover of strong, clean lines like Lemaire would have definitely been susceptible to its seemingly bare bones architecture that houses a wealth of knowledge.



Likewise, the designer's collections have this pared-back quality to them that is a world away from fashion's changeling nature. But their simplicity is certainly not monastic, deeply imbued with a secular connection to the urbane realities of the Lemaire woman. And roam the city this nomad does, enabled by this supporting cast of cloth. To wit, shirt-blousons, cape-shirts or wrap-over dresses cut in crisp, light materials have adaptability in their DNA. A flared dress or a denim skirt carry sweetness without feeling coy. For summer, this comes across as lightness, a certain kindness in the proportions, as well as the pragmatic sensuality of French women. A coat-dress in gabardine says so many things a slip does not, and the body unconstrained speaks volumes. The palette is likewise restrained: white, black, raw indigo, a rare red or a leafy print break the solid simplicity, manifesting an adaptability that makes a Lemaire garment fit wherever it is taken.



Like all good recipes, the Christophe Lemaire one calls for few ingredients. But it is their quality and the able hand of the chef that make this simple fare into a gourmet treat.