The approach through the bog Across the bog The Earl of Breadalbane’s lintel The 17th century barracks from the woods One of the current residents The main tower from the courtyard The view towards Glen Strae The view to the East from the castle Across the river From the south side Scrubby alder in the bog of Kilchurn The woods by the castle Interior wall Castle with birds circling Tower The railway bridge

Atmospheric, picturesque, on a loch… Kilchurn is a classic example of a Scottish castle. It was built originally in the fifteenth century by “Black” Colin Campbell of Loch Awe. His branch of the Campbell clan gradually expanded its territories eastward into Breadalbane and Colin’s descendants moved their main residence to Balloch (now Taymouth) at the eastern end of Loch Tay. In terms of territory and influence, the Breadalbane Campbells rivalled their clan superiors, the Earls (and later Dukes) of Argyll.

John, first Earl of Breadalbane and a descendant of Black Colin, had his initials (EIB) and those of his wife (Countess Mary Campbell) inscribed above the door. The Earl was also known as “Slippery John” because of his reputation for astute political manoeuvres.

The castle is at the northern end of Loch Awe, reached by crossing a wide stretch of marshy ground. Today a scrubby wood of alder, birch and willow grows on the western side of the castle. It was an easily defended position that retained the option of communication by boat across the loch. Like most Scottish castles, the building itself is effectively a fortified residence, rather than a purpose built military installation.

Looking north and east visitors can see territory which must at one time have all been under Glenorchy’s influence, which was extensive. By the seventeenth century the Campbells of Glenorchy held territory stretching from the Isle of Lismore to the eastern end of Loch Tay and the family were major players in Scottish politics, especially Earl John.

From castles like Kilchurn, Scottish Lairds and clan chiefs ruled their territories like miniature kingdoms. The Scottish aristocracy retained a great deal of power even when elsewhere in Europe monarchs were centralising their authority. Lord Glenorchy held powers of a bailliary court which meant he, or his deputy, had the right to adjudicate all disputes and judge all crimes committed by his tenants except robbery, arson, rape, murder and treason. In his own lands, the Laird’s word was, in effect, law, provided they gave a nod to the nominal authority of the King. He could also raise a levy of troops. These powers eventually gave way to more centralised royal and parliamentary authority after the end of the Stuart dynasty’s reign and especially when judicial powers passed back to the crown in post-Culloden reforms. The Campbell lairds had learned early on, however, to play the power games of court politics and retained their influence into the 19th century, and later incumbents of the various titles also engaged in British politics.

Kilchurn is open to the public from April to September and is located off the A85 between Dalmally and Lochawe village. The car park is unsignposted so watch out for it. Access is via a footpath which runs under the railway bridge. Dogs on leads only. See the location on google maps.

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