I spent a few nights on Chios island out of necessity. I was hopping back from Turkey to Athens, and Chios was my link. I figured it couldn’t hurt to spend a bit of time there, right? Plus I was craving olives swimming in a sea of oil.

Being located in the northern Aegean Sea, Chios is not a huge tourist destination. Like Lesvos, getting there is a bit out of the way. But like all good things that are hard to reach (the stars, my dreams, etc.), Chios is worth it.

It helped that I ended up staying with the most wonderful Airbnb host I’ve ever had, named Maria. The apartment wasn’t super close to the main town, so she offered to take me out and show me around the island. I’m so glad she did. I admit I didn’t really research the island, since I was quickly passing through. Bad travel writer, Candice. BAD.

Maria, my Greek mother. And the world’s biggest frappe.Pyrgi is known for its famous “xysta” design – the black/grey and white geometrical facades featured on all the buildings. This is created by hand-engraving the design onto plaster. Even the 13th century Byzantine church is covered in it. The town makes a fine effort in keeping the designs fresh and fun.

It’s also one of the few Chios towns that weren’t completely destroyed by pirates or Turkish forces.

I haven’t been able to find much info on the town’s background, but apparently the xysta style is based on the Italian “Sgratffito” and originates from Genoa. And then that’s all there is. Grab a frappe in the town square and take it all in.

Drink frappes here. In these orange chairs. This exact spot. You can’t miss it, literally.If you go, get a rental car. It’s worth it.