Directly east of the central Vieux Port and its shiny Norman Foster-designed pavilion, the Noailles district is a decidedly grittier enclave with a large and diverse immigrant population. But hidden in plain sight among the women in headscarves perusing the outdoor produce stalls of the Marché des Capucins, fragrant with peaches and green melon, are some of the country’s oldest specialty stores. Lately, these shops have been joined by a crop of independent businesses, making Noailles a destination sure to appeal to gourmands and curio-seekers alike.

Épicerie L’Idéal

In this two-year-old grocery store and restaurant, a smattering of tables are lined up against wooden shelves brimming with mostly French and Italian gourmet items such as pungent colatura sold in eyedropper bottles and jars of artichoke paté. Opened by Julia Sammut, a co-founder of the influential French guide, Le Fooding, the spot features a short, daily-changing menu that incorporates seasonal produce with Ms. Sammut’s finds. A recent offering featured Maison David’s buttery soft, rosy pink Wagyu pastrami, and crisp cabbage slaw tucked into a semolina flatbread.

11 rue d’Aubagne; epicerielideal.com