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“Everyone was like, ‘Why isn’t Canada represented? We need a unified brand that can showcase our culinary identity,’” she said. “No we don’t, we need to cherish and actually support our regional identities … I think we’re trying too hard to force ourselves in a unified sense in Canada.”

Canada’s try-hardness first became apparent to Ms. Stein when she took a 4,828-kilometre car trip of Spain. Every region, from the Basque to Catalan to Seville, had its own unique culinary identity and didn’t try to absorb the traditions of other regions. Though true, she said, the government tries to promote Spain’s products to the world by handpicking certain regional dishes that are better known, like, say, paella.

But countries always seem to fall into clichés when trying to hawk a national brand — think Mounties and moose for Canada — and food is no different, said Chris McDonald, chef and owner of Cava Restaurant in Toronto.

“It’s always poutine and tourtière that we hear about, so they’ve gone to the natural position,” he said of the Mexico City food truck. “And that’s always going to be something that people that are trying to do fine work in food are not going to be terribly proud of. But if you transposed that and said ‘OK, if Italy were to make a food truck, what would they put?’ They would put pizza and spaghetti.”

It makes sense as well that Quebec-based meals would star in an attempt to promote Canadian cuisine, whatever that may be, he said. Quebec does have a food identity all its own, largely because it’s older than much of the rest of the country, it’s “quaint and European,” and it has a language to protect.