New Orleans is a hazy fever dream of a city, with a history as winding and arabesque as the stretch of the Mississippi River Delta upon which it sits. The city was settled by the French in 1718, ceded to the Spanish, reverted back to French control, then was sold to a fledgling country called the United States in 1803. It has since served as a sanctuary to displaced Haitians, French-Canadians, and Vietnamese, as well as droves of artists, poets, and more. If you can handle the humidity, you’re welcome in this town.

At the heart of it all is the city’s architectural and historic center, the French Quarter. But anyone who has spent time visiting New Orleans can tell you that the French Quarter of today—choked with souvenir shops, dive bars, and rowdy tourists—is a far cry from the interesting, bohemian haven it was a century ago. That said, there are still two reasons you should go on a quick stroll through the Quarter: first, to try the iconic beignets at Café du Monde (but only after a night at the bar, so as to avoid the overwhelming daytime lines); and second, to shop for sunglasses at the beautiful Royal Street store of Krewe, runner-up for the 2016 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize.

It’s not that you should avoid the neighborhood—it’s a landmarked district that everyone should see. It’s just that New Orleans, as has happened so many times during its history, is in the midst of a cultural transformation, and everywhere but the French Quarter is where you will find the latest and greatest in exciting restaurants, shopping, and things to see. So set your sights on Tremé, the Marigny, Mid-City, Garden District, Audubon Park, and the Warehouse District . . . and get ready to fall in love with the Big Easy, where creativity lurks around every corner and Southern charm hangs on the air like a warm breeze.