I started with what I considered to be the most complicated part to make [Part 9]. It's a section of the lightsaber with circumferential grooves cut into it, so that you get alternating high and low rings. There are nine grooves on the reference photos and schematics I've seen, but I ended up with eleven to fill the space. This could be corrected by adjusting the measurements and spacing, but since this was basically a proof of concept, I didn't worry about it.



My groove cutting method employed my small parts crosscut sled on the table saw. I used a Kreg miter slot stop block to set a definitive stopping point for the sled and set my desired blade height. My sled doesn't have an integrated ruler, so I temporarily attached a seamstress tape measure using clear packing tape. Lastly, I set the sled stop block to an arbitrary starting point.



Note: I cut these grooves in a long length of dowel and cut it to final length afterwards ... that's how I keep my hands at a safe distance. I would NOT do this with a short dowel.

Note 2: If you are uncomfortable with this method in ANY way .. DON'T do it. Just draw them on or something.



How I Cut The Grooves:

1. I advanced the sled into the blade until it bottomed out at the miter stop block.

2. I used my left hand on the far right side of the fence to hold the dowel against the back fence. Just enough pressure to keep it tight against the fence, but still rotate.

3. I used my right hand to spin the dowel until the groove was cut around the entire circumference.

4. Once cut, I'd back the sled away from the blade and turn off the blade.

5. Lastly I'd move my sled stop block 5/16" to the left and repeat the process.



What I end up with is 1/8" grooves with 3/16" spacing between them.



At this point the miter stop block was removed and the blade raised to I could cut this dowel to it's final length of 4 1/4".