RIYADH, Saudi Arabia — It’s awkward to find yourself in a police state interviewing people about their leader’s penchant for starving children, torturing women or dismembering critics.

The result is nervous smiles. And long pauses in the conversation.

It’s sad because on this visit, I found Saudi Arabia truly is changing under Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman. You feel a dynamism on the ground in Riyadh, and young Saudis are thrilled that the country finally has a bold leader trying to modernize the economy.

One businesswoman, Naha Said Kattan, told me that she’s grateful to Prince Mohammed that she could drive herself to our interview. I told her that I was delighted for her, but that it was difficult to celebrate while the prince also imprisons women’s rights leaders and reportedly has had four flogged, tortured and sexually harassed, with one attempting suicide as a result.

Another awkward silence.

I’ve been fiercely critical of the “mad prince,” so I was a bit surprised to receive a Saudi visa — apparently because I was traveling with a United Nations delegation returning from Yemen. In a reflection of the mood today, American friends seemed less concerned about my safety in rebel-held Yemen than in Riyadh.