First look: Alice Blue in the Heights

Tomato panzanella salad with cantaloupe, fresno chile, and mint on labneh at the new Alice Blue restaurant (formerly Shade) in the Heights.

Tomato panzanella salad with cantaloupe, fresno chile, and mint on labneh at the new Alice Blue restaurant (formerly Shade) in the Heights. Photo: Melissa Phillip, Houston Chronicle Photo: Melissa Phillip, Houston Chronicle Image 1 of / 32 Caption Close First look: Alice Blue in the Heights 1 / 32 Back to Gallery

When Houston chef/restaurateur Claire Smith announced last month that she was temporarily shuttering her popular Shade in the Heights to reconcept the restaurant and menu, details were slim.

We knew the chef: Kent Domas assisted by chef/consultant Jason Vaughn. And we knew the new name: Alice Blue.

But even the name was odd. Who's Alice? Why is she blue? Nothing on Smith's initial press release referenced the name change.

Well, after 3 ½ weeks of being closed to renovate the restaurant and refine the menu, Alice Blue's doors are open. With it comes plenty of new information about the restaurant's post-Shade life, which judging from a first look of the space and Domas' new dishes, should be long and prosperous.

Let's start with that name. Smith, who also owns Canopy and Woodbar in Montrose, is an admirer of Alice Roosevelt Longworth, President Theodore Roosevelt's first child, known as one of the White House's most colorful residents. At 17 she became a fashion icon at her 1902 social debut when she wore a blue colored gown that was known afterward as "Alice blue."

"It's a blue Claire is fond of," said Sean Jensen's the restaurant's consulting beverage manager.

Smith, currently on vacation in France, worked with Carl Eaves, development director for F.E.E.D. TX restaurant group, on the design. It's a sophisticated new look accented by various shades of indigo (baby to cerulean to turquoise to navy, including "Alice blue") offset by lighting, furniture and artwork in white, gray, and other pops of cobalt hues. The entrance has now been re-routed to the side alley patio, and the division between the bar area and the main dining room is more pronounced (the bar has its own seating configurations and lounge area). Overall, it's a striking, beautifully realized design.

The fresh new space is a perfect backdrop for the new menu. Gone is Shade's family globally-inspired Southern fare. In its place Domas, formerly of Down House and Bernadine's, has forged an exciting new direction of French/Italian/Spanish influences grounded in classic European technique.

"We wanted to start something brand new," Domas said. "This doesn't feel like Shade. And we mean that in a good way."

The new menu opens with appetizers such as deep-fried squash fritters (looking like crispy tumbleweeds) with a sumac-spiced yogurt; nubby whipped brandade with garlic toast; cheese and blood sausage fondue with ciabatta; steak tartare on a bed of crème fraiche wearing shavings of freshly grated horseradish and bottarga; and grilled eggplant, pomegranate and pistachio with seeded lavash.

Salads include a bright tomato panzanella salad bolstered with cubed cantelope on a bed of labneh; marinated shrimp and shaved vegetables in citrus vinaigrette; heirloom beans and feta tossed with pine nuts and roasted peppers; and gem lettuce with pickled carrot, celery and croutons with green goddess dressing.

The restaurant is now making its own bread. And pasta, such as tagliatelle married to sweet corn, pancetta and chile oil; cavatelli making nice with tomato, burrata, and nasturtium in smoked butter; and eggplant agnolotti in a lusty dance with goat cheese and sweet peppers.

Domas lavishes even more passion on entrees such as skin-on pork belly served with green farro and peaches in a spiced pork vinaigrette; seared dorade with bok choy and escabeche; snapper, shrimp, and clam bouillabaisse with rouille; roast chicken with chanterelles and potato puree; and New York strip steak with confit potatoes and blistered shishito peppers.

For dessert there's a sweet corn panna cotta with blueberries; a cherry almond tart served with madeira ice cream; and a rum-soaked layer cake with Nutella ganache and buttercream.

The bar's cocktail program holds dear the classics: gin martini, Old Fashioned, Manhattan, Sazerack, Americano, a tequila Paloma, and a mezcal Negroni. Jensen, formerly of Public Services and the hay Merchant, has put together a smart wine list, and Summer Sepeda, formerly of One Fifth and the Pass & Provisions, is leading the restaurant team as general manager.

For now, Alice Blue is dinner only, serving Monday through Wednesday from 5 to 10 p.m., and Thursday through Saturday from 5 to 11 p.m. (closed Sunday). But check back soon: the restaurant plans to begin weekday lunch service followed by Saturday and Sunday brunch. Alice Blue, 250 W. 19th, also has separate vegetarian menus and gluten-free menus. For more information call 713-864-2050; alicebluehouston.com