After recharging, I headed out to the Museum District neighborhood and dinner at Belmont Food Shop (facebook.com/belmontfoodshop), another perfect emblem of the new Richmond. What looks like a well-worn neighborhood joint is actually a new gem from chef/owner Mike Yavorsky, who returned to his hometown after cooking under New York giants like Daniel Boulud and Floyd Cardoz. Yavorsky's deceptively simple plates — meltingly soft short ribs, flawless gazpacho, exemplary roast chicken — lands him squarely in their company. The evening ended two miles east at the insane GWAR Bar (gwarbar.com), a pub owned by its namesake horror-metal band — which originated in Richmond. Prepare for deafening music, splattered fake blood, and surprisingly good cocktails and bar food.