Dior

Mr. Kim Jones has taken the reigns of menswear at Dior, and his recent collections have been nothing short of excellent. His pre-fall collection in Tokyo set the tone for this show, with a cohesive yet diverse range of garments with futuristic aesthetics, complemented by a giant robot. Although the pre-fall collection was a bit flashier, Jones nailed this collection and honed in on his new vision.

The minimalism of this collection can’t be understated. It makes sense that Jones recruited Matthew Williams of Alyx to design accessories, as the collection carries a militaristic, and almost elite-dystopian sartorial perspective on menswear. One of the best looks has a lapel coming across the body, accompanied with a simple side bag and trousers tucked into combat boots. Another features a vest/tactical jacket with a creature design, introducing artistic elements to the utility trend.

There’s been talk of Dior being the hottest brand of 2019, and the rumors appear to have merit. Kim Jones is retaining the history of the design house while introducing a unique and refreshing angle on menswear. It will be interesting to see how Jones builds off this newfound aesthetic, or if it will be an isolated episode.

Undercover/Valentino

I combined these two brands since their collaboration was featured so heavily in both collections. I’ve typically known Undercover as an edgy Japanese brand, and admittedly don’t know much about Valentino. Nonetheless, these collections were outstanding.

There is a theory that Edgar Allen Poe was (is?) a time traveler. This theme permeates the two collections, with a portrait of the writer imposed on designs with flying saucers. The Undercover collection moved back and forth from “ye-olden” streetwear and the silhouettes of today. A Clockwork Orange, the diabolic-debauchery infested novel-turned-movie directed by Stanley Kubric, was the other basis for this collection. Various images of Alex, the main character, were bold, including the infamous “eyes held open” image. Beethoven was another repeated motif, the featured composer of the movie. The colors were beautiful with plenty of saturated and vibrant hues.

The Valentino show featured the same Edgar Allen Poe-UFO designs as Undercover, again with very rich colors. Trench coats, sweatshirts and hoodies alike donned the graphic, blending sportswear with tailoring. Models also wore socks and sandals, furthering the impact of streetwear on the designer side of fashion. Perhaps my favorite piece was an oversized tan sweater with a maroon “V” combined with a carnation and Poe-UFO design. The entire collection could fit into any wardrobe since the garments are easily styled. These two collections were unexpectedly impressive, and I look forward to the performance of Undercover and Valentino this year.

Louis Vuitton

I was ready to be disappointed by Virgil, as I have been in the past. The Off-White collection was terribly disjointed and had no apparent motif. And as per usual, Virgil is being accused of ripping off designs, particularly the yellow-graffitied trench coat. With this show in the back of my mind, I was prepared for Louis Vuitton to take another step back.

But the two shows couldn’t have turned out any more different. The fashion world expected streetwear, yet Virgil had other ideas. The first third of the show was monochromatic with a flurry of varying fabrics and cuts, progressing through motifs of diversity and inclusion. Virgil wanted to focus on the humanity of fashion, exploring the evolving definition of menswear. When he was appointed to his position at LV, there was plenty of discussion about diversity, as he was the first black creator to head one of the top design houses. This ideal carried into the fall collection, with American stars and stripes, world flags mixed together, and one of my favorite pieces: a sparkling sweater featuring Africa as the face of the globe. Michael Jackson was another inspiration for the collection, as there were references to his insignia-laden costumes and iconic dance moves.

Rather than the loud, noisy aesthetic of OFF-WHITE, this latest collection possessed an air of reserved elegance. Virgil has remarkably adapted to the sophistication of luxury design. He certainly shattered some preconceived notions many people had in the industry. Although I’ve never been the biggest fan of Abloh, and I don’t think his work with OFF-WHITE is particularly exceptional, I’m excited to see his tenure at Louis Vuitton, and it may very well end up being a fruitful relationship.

White Mountaineering

An outdoors-inspired brand based out of Japan, White Mountaineering put together an almost hectic array of clothing, with layers upon layers of different fabrics and shapes. “Mutation” and “imbalance” were the themes of this collection, explained by the label’s designer Yosuke Aizawa. It was almost like a grunge band was ready to perform at the summit of Everest.

Although the utilitarian trend in fashion has reached a near-apex, the technical inspired elements didn’t feel out of place here. Yes, it may have been taken to an extreme, as models donned giant pockets, vests, and even headgear sporting hanging straps, but it made sense within the context of the collection. The patchwork of various fabrics on pants, coats, and sweaters alike was great, looking like cozy blankets stitched together. There was an interesting design of a tiger’s face mixed with a couple different animals. The scarf was lovely as well. I don’t know much about the history of the brand, but this collection displayed a clear aesthetic and idea. White Mountaineering lived up to the name. If I ever make it to the top of a mountain, I'll do it with some hype headgear.

Honorable Mentions and other fashion week favorites



Fendi

Alyx

Raf Simons

Enfantes Riches Deprimes