Baby

A stuffed cloth pad on which a tailor works his/her cloth.

Balance

Adjustment of the lengths of the front and back panels of a jacket so that they sit harmoniously in relation to the wearer’s posture.

Band Collar

A shirt or jacket collar which stands up straight instead of turning down. Because of this, it lacks collar points.

Learn More: Dress Shirt Collar Styles

Banger

Piece of wood with a handle used to draw out steam and smooth cloth during ironing.

Barchetta

An Italian term that refers to the curved breast pocket often found on suits from that country. Means “little boat.”

Barrel Cuff

The most commonly found shirt cuff style. A single cuff attached with a button and buttonhole.

Baste

To sew loosely together with long, easy-to-remove threads so that a garment can be temporarily held together to be tried on. Used in the full custom process to perfect the customer’s pattern.

Basted Fitting

An intermediary fitting (often the second of three) during the bespoke or custom process.

Batwing

A style of bow tie with two narrow ends of equal width. One of the most popular bow tie silhouettes.

Belt Loops

Self-colored pieces of fabric sewn onto the outside of a trouser waistband to keep a belt in place.

Bemberg

A material commonly used in jacket linings. Often mistaken for silk, it is in fact the trade name of the unusually fine Cupramonium rayon first produced in the early twentieth century. However, it is still a high-end fabric.

Bengal Stripe

A common shirt pattern with stripes of equal width in two colors, typically white with something else. So called because they originally shipped to world markets from Bengal, India.

Besom

A flapless pocket with a welt found on jackets our trousers. Often referred to as “besom pockets” and also known as “jet pockets.”

Bespoke

Term referring to a garment that has been made almost entirely by hand based on a pattern created exclusively for the customer, often with the stipulation that 50 hours of handwork are necessary to earn the title “bespoke”. The Savile Row Bespoke Association also states that the suit must be made on or around Savile Row itself to be considered truly bespoke.

Derived from the phrase “been spoken for,” in reference to a particular cloth.

Learn More: Bespoke Suit Guide

Bias

A garment is said to be “cut on the bias” when the a woven fabric is cut at a 45-degree angle. Any necktie worth buying is cut on the bias as this allows the tie to knot properly, stay resilient after many tyings and untyings, and avoid twisting when hanging around the neck.

Birdseye

A fabric pattern of small repeating circle or diamond shapes which resemble the eye of a bird.

Learn More: Suit Patterns: Birdseye

Bi-Swing Back

Found in casual sport jackets, these have vertical inverted pleats running from shoulder to waistline on each side of the back. Often paired with a stitched-on half belt in back.

Learn More: Sports Jackets

Black Tie

A formal dress code for functions later than 6 p.m.

Learn More: Guide To The Black Tie Dress Code

Black Watch

A classic tartan that, interestingly, involves navy and green (not black). Serves as a blazer option in addition to solid navy. Named after The Black Watch (or Black Guard), who were a group of Scotsmen hired by the king of England as a way to control rebellious Scottish clans. Now the uniform tartan of the British Army’s 42nd Highland Regiment.

Learn More: Guide to Plaid Patterns

Blade

A British term indicating extra fullness at the jacket’s shoulder blades or the the broader apron of a necktie. Also refers to the ends of a bow tie.

Learn More: Guide to Necktie Terminology

Blazer

A solid-colored odd jacket with metal buttons, the archetype of which is a navy 6×2 DB. Based on the reefer jacket, it has nautical origins and was originally used as wear for regattas and were so bold that they were referred to as a “blaze” of color.

Block Pattern

A pre-made pattern that is used to create standardized garments, either mass-produced or made-to-measure.

Bolt

A length of wool cloth from the loom. Ranges in size from 50-70 meters long and 32-60 inches wide.

Learn More: All of our resources on suit fabrics

Boutonnière

A flower (real or fake) that sits in the lapel buttonhole of a jacket. Often worn by wedding parties and dandier men.

Learn More: Learn when to wear a boutonnière

Box pleat

Found on the center of the yoke of some dress shirts, this is a small section surrounded by two pleats on either side that allows further room for movement.

Bow tie

Neckwear that is tied around the collar like a bow using the same technique as tying a shoelace. The only appropriate option for semi-formal and formal dress codes, and stereotypically worn by those wishing to appear professorial.

Learn More: How to wear, buy, and make a bowtie

Braces

A British term that refers to what Americans call “suspenders.” Sartorially correct braces are pieces of fabric (sometimes silk, sometimes not) that sit on the shoulders and attach to the trousers’ waistband via buttons to hold them up. Clip-on braces are incorrect.

Learn More: Guide to wearing braces

Break

A tailoring term that refers to the amount of pant that sits atop the wearer’s shoe when finished. Breaks can be anything from non-existent to large depending on the wearer’s personal preferences and frame.

Learn More: How trousers should fit, including break

Broadcloth

A shirting weave that yields a smooth, lustrous finished fabric free of ornamentation. Also found in undergarments.

Board

A tailor’s workbench.

Bolt

A length of wool cloth from the loom. Ranges in size from 50-70 meters long and 32-60 inches wide.

Learn More: Learn about wool suit fabric

Buff

A very pale brown or tan color, appearing in, e.g, morning coats.

Learn More: Guide to morning dress, including morning coats

Burgundy

A dark red, nearly brown, taking its name from the French wine.

Bushelman

A tailor who performs alterations and repairs but doesn’t make clothes.

Butterfly

A bow tie silhouette with flared ends. Makes a wide bow that resembles butterfly wings.

Learn More: Bow Tie Styles

Button

A circular piece of material that fastens two sides of a jacket, trousers, or waistcoat. Commonly made in horn, mother-of-pearl, plastic, wood, corozo, and leather.

Button-down Collar

Popularized by Brooks Brothers, this is a type of shirt collar in which the collar points button to the shirt itself. A more casual shirt, it requires longer collar points to achieve a handsome “roll.”

Learn More: Read about button-down collars and other collar styles

Button Stance

Refers to both the number of buttons on a jacket or waistcoat and their placement relative to the wearer’s navel.

Learn More: What Is Button Stance & Why It’s Important

Buttonhole Guard

A piece of thread woven into the backside of a jacket’s lapel to keep a boutonniere in place.