It is difficult to make a truly great helles lager. By definition, they must be relatively light-bodied and mild-flavored, but at the same time they cannot be too simple or boring. At least for a bigger beer, any small faults can be covered up by strong flavors. But a beer as subtle and delicate as a helles lager has nothing to hide behind. It might not be the most complex or intense beer style, but it is certainly one worthy of appreciation.

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‘ORIGINAL’ – WEIHENSTEPHANER – Munich Helles – 5.10% ABV (Eye Choir’s Choice)

Appearance: Poured a totally transparent, bright creamy gold with a one-finger, white head. Mild carbonation is visible, and in combination with the clarity leads to a nearly crystalline appearance. 4.5/5

Smell: Aromas of grainy, biscuit malt backed by honey, as well as some grassy and faintly citric hops. Slight notes of spicy German lager yeast blend in with the noble hop character. Very clean and though it is a little mild it is balanced quite well. 4/5

Taste: A slight tang of tartness lets the hops shine with a touch of peppery spice and some lime while the somewhat dry finish accentuates their primary herbal hay-like notes. The grain holds steady, with mild underlying sweetness contrasting a mild, cleansing bitterness that lets the yeast character display some earthy and even vaguely musty grape skin notes. Very even-handed, though quite complex for the style. 4.5/5

Mouthfeel: Very light bodied and almost watery, though the smooth, mild carbonation works syngeristically with the tart aspect of the flavors flavors. No notable alcoholic heat. 4/5

Overall: Incredibly clean and well-balanced, and though not strong and in-your-face, digging around reveals some really great flavors. Very fresh and easy to drink nonetheless, 4.5/5

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LAGER – RIVER HORSE – Euro Pale Lager – 5.00% ABV

Appearance: Poured gold with a touch of orange and a one inch, white head. There is a fair amount of fine sediment observed floating around the glass, causing a moderate haziness. 3/5

Smell: Predominantly herbaceous, grassy hops supported by a subdued biscuity malt aroma in the background. A slight funky, almost acetic aroma from the yeast is present as well, accentuating highlights of citrus within the hops. Mild but pleasantly unusual. 3.5/5

Taste: Mild to moderate sweetness is forward, but not overwhelming, though it doesn’t bring much else to the malt character. The bitterness is quite mild, with hay-like hops coming forward with a subtle lemon peel. The finish has an odd sourdough yeast flavor that is a bit cloying though. Could stand to be balanced better, and unfortunately isn’t especially complex. 2.5/5

Mouthfeel: Mild body, with a smooth mouthfeel and moderate carbonation. Mouthfeel is not overly thin and is slightly slippery in a way that lightens the body without making it weak. Alcohol taste is nonexistent. Overall, fairly refreshing and easy to drink. 3.5/5

Overall: Nicely uncomplicated easy to drink, but has some imbalance and isn’t particularly interesting, even if it is a little unconventional with the yeast character. 3/5

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‘MAHR’S HELL’ – MAHRS BRÄU – Munich Helles – 4.90% ABV

Appearance: Poured a slightly amber yellow with a two-finger, off-white head. There is a fair amount of slightly sedimentary haze, though the very mild carbonation is easily visible. 3.5/5

Smell: Aroma has surprisingly strong components of lager yeast, with notes of grape skins, raspberries, damp, funky hay, and even a touch of sulfur. Malt character is quite grainy, featuring as well some bread and honey. Hop aroma is very light, but mild notes of lemon and grass can be discerned. Quite forward for a helles lager. 3.5/5

Taste: Mild to moderate sweetness highlights the grainy, almost corny malt character, though a touch of tartness conjures lemon butterscotch biscuits as well as some slight earthy yeast. The finish is mildly bitter, though very dry and slightly astringent, leaving the slightly rank, yet strangely fresh, floral impression of pollen. Somewhat one dimensional, but oddly complex and powerful for the style. 3.5/5

Mouthfeel: Very light bodied, with an incredibly quaffable, perfectly carbonated body that gives it a very thirst-quenching impression. No alcoholic heat, though a the dry finish has a unique astringency that makes you want to keep going. Good session beer. 4.5/5

Overall: Despite being light and drinkable, a fairly unique and strangely potent light lager, though ultimately the balance and construction are not that much better than an average Munich helles, though certainly more brash. 3.5/5

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‘DORTMUNDER GOLD’ – GREAT LAKES – Dortmunder Export – 5.80% ABV

Appearance: Poured a pale amber yellow with a one finger, slightly-golden light tan head. The body is incredibly clear, showing off moderate carbonation. 4/5

Smell: Has a very unique grainy malt character with notes of wood pulp. This is balanced very well with a warmly herbaceous hop aroma with flower pollen and lemon notes, as well as lingering hay-like yeast notes. Very unique and quite complex, though honestly a little strange despite how well the flavors work together. 4/5

Taste: Moderate sweetness brings out a strong, almost cornbread-like malt character, though a touch of acidity and bitterness accentuate bright notes of lemongrass and faint yeast funk. The finish remains a little sweet, though the malt flavors become more subdued over the course of the drink. A lot of depth despite how light the drink is overall. 4/5

Mouthfeel: Light bodied with a very creamy mouthfeel which is amplified by soft, frothy carbonation. A touch of alcoholic heat is present near the end however, which pairs oddly with the remaining bitterness. 3.5/5

Overall: A light lager which still manages to pack a lot of flavor without coming off as heavy. Some of the subtleties in the malt and yeast are a little odd, though their level of detail and careful integration lead to a unexpectedly successful beer. 4/5