The highly sophisticated food at McCrady's — kept secret until each dish is placed in front of you — is served in an unstuffy atmosphere, where diners can wash down their delicacies with expertly chosen wine pairings ($85) or, in the case of a guy in jeans sitting at the communal counter, a bottle of Miller High Life. No judgments here. Just darn good food. And a nice souvenir: Customers walk out with a small packet of heirloom seeds from Brock's collection. (Can't wait to see if Sea Island red peas survive on the terrace of my Chicago condo.)