I didn't get as much done over the weekend as I had hoped. Taking in football with friends at some of the local watering holes put a damper on progress. I did get everything plumped in except the CO2 tank because I forgot to grab a line for it. But all that needs to be done for that is to slip the line on past the barbs and tighten down the pipe clamp.I built the collar very similar to what many people have done. I used pieces of wood that I had laying around from previous projects, hence why I used presure treated 2x6's for the section that sits on top of the freezer. I used 2.5" wood screws to screw all the pieces together and 1.25" wood screws on the corner gussets. I cannot stress enough to use a square and level to make sure what you are building is indeed square and flush. Once I had the inner part of the collar assembled I attached small 0.25" shims to 3 of the sides so that I could attach the 2x10 boards on those three sides. Once I had that done I put down two layers of 1.25" wide x 0.4375" thick weather stripping on the inner collar side that would be resting on the freezer. I then flipped the collar right side up and placed it on the freezer so I could attach the lid. Before I removed the lid I put a screw through each hinge. I did not have to create my own hole for the screw because there was already a hole there for this purpose. This helps to take some pressure off the spring so you do not have to fight it. Once I had the collar assembled and right side up I put the door back on making sure it was square and flush.Now it was time to build a wall to hold in the spray foam. I used all the scrap wood I had left over to make the other sides of the form. Once I had that done, I sprayed the foam insulation in all the cracks and even a bead n the inside where the collar sits. I am trying my best to keep it air tight to prevent moisture issues. I let the foam set up for almost a whole 24 hours before I resumed work. Next up I trimmed the insulation and removed the form. Starting to take shape now. I then mounted the CO2 pump panel and drilled holes for all the hoses - CO2, trunk line and both glycol lines. I used a 3" hole saw for the trunk line and a 1" drill for the other holes. I did this to keep the holes as small and snug as possible to help prevent moisture issues, and this made fishing hoses with insulation on them a pain. After playing around with each hose for more than I would have liked to, they all were fed in and cut to the appropriate length. This doesn't even come close to how much of a pain working under the kitchen sink was. All of the lines inside/outside of the keezer are secured on the barb with hose clamps and insulated all the way into the keezer. The only thing I did not do was tape the glycol lines outside of the keezer...I really didn't feel like looking around for duct tape. Anyhow, here are pics to match all that I said for an update.Screw holding the spring back on the hinge:It's hip to use a square!Collar assembled with weather stripping on:Collsr right side up:Note the spacer:Bead of silicon to help keep moisure out:Hinges attached using the paint stirring from a 5 gallon bucket as an offset (needed to help lineup the lid with the collar):One layer of foam board insulation installed:Spray foam after the form has been completed:Trunk line fed through:CO2 pump panel mounted:Trunk line insulation stripped away to expose the lines, with 2 product lines hooked up, secured to the wall with pipe hanger strap:Glycol lines hooked up:All closed up with the CO2 tank waiting for its line....Tomorrow I hope to tackle the CO2 tanks line and run the electrical. The glycol unit needs its own dedicated 20 amp service and I need to run power for another out that powers the freezer and my water softner/conditioner. I am close. Once I do that I plan to use the temp control on the freezer to take care of the kegs. I will have to adjust the coarse temp setting on the compressor to get above freezing and then use the fine adjustment to tweek it. I guess I will be borrowing a thermocouple reader from work...