Every time I bake a batch of Peppery Bacon and Cheddar Scones – these magical clusters of heat, tang and smoke – Jeff and I have the same conversation: what makes them scones instead of biscuits?

I mean, you definitely wouldn’t serve these with jam and clotted cream.

These would not be the scone of choice for the pinkies-up crowd.

However, scones and biscuits are more similar than you might think. Both can be sweet or savory, triangular or round. Both can contain cream or buttermilk or the same fats, including lard. Both are crusty with soft interiors. Even the mixing methods are the same.

So, what’s the real difference? It’s in the ratios.

Biscuits tend to have a ratio of 3:1:2 (3 parts flour, 1 part fat, 2 parts liquid), while scones usually have a ratio of 3:1:1. That seemingly slight difference is why biscuits are flaky and chewy, and scones are more spongy and crumbly. Since this recipe has a fluctuating amount of liquid (3/4 to 1 1/2 cups, depending on the weather), it could go either way.

Use the minimum amount of liquid, and you’ll have scones. Use the max, and you’ll have biscuits.

Either way, they make an appearance at our house once a week. I make a half-batch and skip the rolling pin in favor of patting down the dough and getting the scones into the oven. Each one brings a lot of personality to the plate, so you can eat them as-is and be perfectly satisfied, or you can split them and fill them with 1-egg omelets, sandwich meat or sliced tomatoes.

Just make sure to eat them with your pinkies up.