It's located in Montclair, but this restaurant's soul is in Memphis.

Bluff City BBQ, named after the Tennessee town famous for its 'cue, serves not only the deliciously smoky ribs ($16/$28) and pulled pork ($15) you'd expect, but also a variety of southern selections, such as shrimp and grits, sparked by Andouille sausage, peppers, tomato and onion ($11/$18).

The kitchen involves a collaboration between owner Scott Hermo, a retired Wall Street bond trader with a passion for barbecue, and Patrick Yves Pierre-Jerome, a chef whose resume includes stops at New Brunswick's Stage Left and his own Yves in Montclair, which sadly closed more than two decades ago.

Pierre-Jerome is nothing if not eclectic, so those looking for something off the main track of the establishment's cuisine can always go with the likes of the lush crabmeat salad and cucumber Charlotte ($10) or roasted beets with baby kale and goat cheese ($10). Innovation is part of the fun. Buttermilk fried chicken ($16) takes on a different personality with the addition of black pepper garlic honey that gives new meaning to finger lickin'.

The chef's talents fit into Hermo's concept of something that was more upscale than the usual BBQ place, with offerings outside the predictable items so vegetarians feel welcome, too There are several fish dishes with nice touches. The blackened salmon ($21) gets its personality from an intriguing brown sugar mustard sauce, while the oven-fried catfish ($16) is dressed up by smoked tomatoes and a jazzy fennel relish. Everything meshes beautifully with moist cornbread, which comes with entrees and also is available as a side ($3).

The main draw, obviously, is the barbecue, amid the aura of fragrant smoke that beckons and beguiles at Bluff City. Hermo visits Memphis annually to enjoy barbecue and learn more about it. As he began thinking about starting his own restaurant, Hermo took entrepreneurial classes at the International Culinary Center,

In 2015, he began working at Giotto, which was in the space where Bluff City is now located. He also got involved with barbecue restaurants in New York City and Cambridge, Mass., before taking the leap to open his place at the end of December. The owner put not only his heart, soul and money into the project, but also his handiwork, sanding and refinishing as the chic rustic interior with its distressed wood tables took shape.

Hermo would like to spend more time out on the floor and working with such aspects as catering and takeout, but he has been busy in the kitchen, handling the smoking and barbecue work as well as pitching in on the line when necessary.

The rub is his own recipe, made for him in Arkansas from 10 different spices, and used on a variety of items, though the tender brisket is "just straight up salt and pepper." The vinegary yet sweet barbecue sauce is also his creation. Without giving away the whole recipe, it's sufficient to say it includes ketchup (the only item not made in-house), tomato sauce, cider vinegar and brown sugar, among other ingredients.

The barbecue sampler of ribs, brisket and pulled pork ($22) and of course, sliced pickles, is served on a tray covered in brown paper, no plate. For those wanting to get an overview of Bluff City, this does the trick. While the Memphis style of ribs is usually dry, Hermo gives the meat a quick light brush of sauce to glaze them, imparting a more alluring look and color.

Shrimp and grits cakes offers an alternative fo meat at Bluff City BBQ.

I expected desserts to be an afterthought, as they often are at various barbecue places I've frequented elsewhere in the country. At Bluff City, happily, they're a main attraction. Forget the ribs, the brisket, the chicken--I'd go back just for the raggedy pecan cornmeal cookies ($6) with dulce de leche on the side for dipping. They have a welcome crunch and are comfortingly tasty even without the dip. Red velvet cake ($7) is an on-the-mark rendition of a classic, while pecan pie ($7) is not too sweet, which can often be the downfall of this dessert.

We were waited on by a young person who was trying hard but lacked training, resulting in a service glitch. I was impressed that manager Nelson Rangel was on it immediately and took a percentage off our bill to make things right. Other employees were warm and welcoming, sharing their enthusiasm about their workplace.

Hermo acknowledged staffing has been an issue as he wends his way through the trials of starting his first restaurant, but there is light at the end of the tunnel. He is pleased with improvements at the front of the house where his wife, Heather, pitches in as a receptionist.

The restaurant seats 76 and will serve more outside once warm weather returns. Reservations are taken during the week for anyone, but on the weekends, only for groups of six or more. That can mean a wait for couples or small families on weekends, but for barbecue lovers, it's worth it and the price is right.

Bluff City BBQ

21 Midland Ave. Montclair. 973-744-4657. bluffcitybbqnj.com. Hours: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-9 Mondays and Wednesdays; 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-10 p.m.Thursdays-Fridays; 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. and 5-10 p.m. Saturdays, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. 5-8 p.m.Sundays. Closed Tuesdays. BYOW. 2 1/2 stars.

Cody Kendall may be reached at CodyDine@aim.com. Follow Cody on Twitter@CodyDine. Find NJ.com/Entertainment on Facebook.