More Armenians now live outside Armenia, in cities around the world, than in it. This is the result of thousands of years of hardship: wars, revolutions, and genocide that have forced Armenians to disperse again and again as refugees. Armenian food culture reflects this dispersal, pulling from other traditions to produce a varied cuisine that changes from one community to another. But in L.A., which has the second largest Armenian population in the world, many different generations of Armenians meet, bringing together the disparate cooking styles that millenia of unrest have brought about.