The high cost of doing business in New York takes a toll on many restaurants in the long run, but it can also lead to compromises whose shortcomings become part of the fun — for diners, at least.

If Darryl and Melissa Burnette had been able to afford to rent a space bigger than 275 square feet for their restaurant, Belle Harlem, Mr. Burnette might do the cooking behind a wall instead of behind a counter. Ms. Burnette, his wife and business partner, might spend all night going in and out a swinging kitchen door instead of paying attention to the customers sitting at the 12 seats in the restaurant’s single room.

At this point, after three years in business, Belle Harlem might be run by employees, and the Burnettes might come in a few times a week to keep an eye on things. Instead they have a paid staff of one. His name is Alex Geudelekian. He was eating dinner there one night, noticed that the weeds were growing up around Mr. Burnette’s ankles, asked if he needed help, and has been the sous-chef ever since.