Despite being a country that guards its culinary traditions more jealously than most - the recipe for the perfect tortilla proves enduringly divisive, and woe betide the anglosajón celebrity chef who dares pollute a paella with chorizo - Spain could be set to swell the ranks of the two billion people on the planet who regularly eat insects.

Or so the supermarket giant Carrefour is hoping.

This week, the French multinational unveiled a new range of bug-based products that will give Spanish shoppers the opportunity to challenge their palates, help the planet, or torment unpopular dinner guests.

Among the delicacies on offer in more than 300 of its Spanish branches are spicy chilli buffalo worms, energy bars made from dark chocolate, figs and powdered crickets, and pasta and granola brimming with insecty goodness.

“The idea is to offer customers the most innovative products and provide an alternative assortment of items that are sustainable and respectful of the environment,” the chain said in a statement. “These products have been produced entirely in Europe and boast the highest-quality standards. They are made by hand and use ingredients derived from eco-friendly farming.”

The new items may be pricey – a 14g box of Jimini’s crunchy crickets will set you back €7 – but Carrefour is pushing them as the responsible alternative to more familiar tastes and textures.

“The packaging is made from recycled paper and includes detailed information about both the ingredients and their nutritional values,” it said. “They also offer customers information about the benefits of their consumption when it comes to both nutrition and the environment.”

The chain claims that the production of edible insects reduces greenhouse gas emissions by 99% and helps to limit water pollution and consumption. It says the new line is part of a wider attempt to improve animal welfare and reduce the company’s environmental impact.

Although a kilo of crickets would cost €500, the retailer believes eating insects is becoming increasingly popular, not least because bugs are a good source of fat, fibre, protein, B vitamins and amino acids.



The EU’s new novel food regulations came into effect in January, paving the way for Europe to eat the kind of insect products long enjoyed in parts of Asia, Africa, Australia and the Americas. According to the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation, at least two billion people regularly consumer insects, and the tiny creatures could help meet the food needs of the world’s growing population.

First, though, a little groundwork may be required to convince Spaniards of the delights of entomological gastronomy.

Quick Guide Taste test Show “Poor things,” the checkout woman said. I think she meant the crickets, and not reporters sent out on such delicate missions. My first reaction as I popped an onion-and-BBQ-flavoured cricket into my mouth was one of relief; the taste was neither alarming nor particularly strange. The crunchy texture and strong salt hit on the palate reminded me of pork scratchings or even Smith's Scampi or Bacon Fries. If anything, I am not sure that I know much more than I did before as to what crickets actually taste like, the flavouring being so dominant. The aftertaste is a little harsh and lingers on the roof of the mouth. I was not tempted to have more than a few. The packet may only be 14g, but there are a large number of minute crickets still to be eaten. Perhaps sprinkling into a salad is the answer. James Badcock

On a quiet Thursday afternoon in Carrefour at the Los Ángeles shopping centre, southern Madrid, few people seemed to notice the small display of Jimini’s insect products, featuring smoked onion and BBQ crickets and garlic and herb-flavoured mealworms.

Those that did tended to swerve away fast. But Maribel Sánchez, doing much of her weekly shopping in the organic and wholefoods section, decided to try a packet of mealworms.

“There’s no reason for them not to taste nice,” she said. “If they’re cooked or fried, they’re dry inside and there will be no problem. I mean, we eat some pretty strange and slimy things in Spain, don’t we? Snails, clams and the like.” She neglected to mention pig’s ear.

“I tried fat-bottomed ants once and they were lovely. A friend of mine brought them back from a trip to Colombia.”

Gabriela Santana, a member of the store staff, also took an open-minded view of the prospect of crunchy insects, suggesting that they could be used in a salad, “as if they were nuts”.

Mónica Bastante, a sales rep for a pasta company, had decided to take a look after hearing about the pasta containing insect flour. But would she be tempted to try whole insects? Apparently not.

“It’s an issue of mistrust for me,” she said. “I just don’t know what is in that. It’s also a bit disgusting, too, I admit.”



Others were even more suspicious. “It’s not implanted in our culture,” said Héctor Martín, shivering at the thought of a crunchy insect snack. “I can’t help it. I know people from other places eat this, but it makes me feel sick.”