The following is a look at how to "tune" the ep3/dc5 suspension from a design point of view. First I would like you to really look at the front suspnsion......First, look at the top pic, that is looking at the stock suspension from the rear. You will notice the LCA is angled down from center of the car. The tie rod is angled up from the center of the car. The suspension design is. What does that mean? Well, look at the top pic again. As you lower the the suspension the LCA goes flat and then past one inch of drop it starts to angle up. This is very bad for the suspension when you look at side loads( cornering forces). If the LCA is angled up and the weight of the car pushing side ways while the tire is trying to stick to the road, this force will "tend" to push the LCA up more and cause the suspension to blow through its travel. If the LCA is flat or angled down, the cornering loads are directed down the LCA in to the sub frame.LCA angled up from the center of the car = you blow through your suspension travel and get lots of under steer. So do not lower the car more than one inch.Next issue to look at with the top pic is camber......Camber is a term used to describe what angle the tire is set at with regard to the road. In stock form, camber is not adjustable and the stock suspension is set for about zero degrees camber. This is great for drag racing and making tires last for 60,000 miles but it sucks for generating grip in turns. Having a couple degrees of negative camber helps the outside tire to take a set and helps keep the tire tread on the road surface. There are 3 ways to get more camber in a ep3/dc5.1) Camber plates, these angle in the top of the strut and as a result angle the tire.2) Crash bolts, these mount where the strut and the bearing carrier connect. This allows you to angle in the bearing carrier and allows you to angle in the tire inward.3) Type-r LCA, these are wider than stock and as a result angle the tire inward. WARNING! If you decide to use these, you should not use your stock axles and you will need type-r front sways because of the extra width of the LCA.What is the best camber setting for the front suspension? It depends on what you are doing and what tires you are using. As a general rule I would say -1 to -1.5 degrees for dd and about -3 for the autoX guys.Negative camber good for cornering in the front suspension.Now look at the lower pic, the first thing I want to to look at is the front bushing on the LCA. That bushing is there to change toe settings as the cornering loads increase. It adds toe in as the gee forces go up, this = increasing under steer! Anyone that is trying to get our cars to handle needs to replace this bushing asap. Both Mugen and Energy Suspension make kits for this.The front bushing in the LCA needs to be replaced to make our cars handle.Now I want to address the Caster angle of our suspension in the front. If you look at bottom pic you will notice the strut is almost strait up and down. The stock caster angle is around 1.5 degrees.....this sucks for handling and strait line tracking. If Honda screwed up anything with our cars suspension, this is the biggest thing. It is also the hardest to fix but it can be fixed. K-Mac makes a Camber/Caster plate for this. The strut towner's can also be re-drilled to angle the strut back. For road racing there are bushings for the LCA that shift the LCA forward to angle the strut back.Caster good but hard to get.OK, you should notice a couple of things with this layout.1) It is a unequal length duel control arm design. This means that as the suspension goes through its travel the shorter UCA pulls the hub carrier inward and increases negative camber. Negative camber is good for cornering and tires stay in contact with the ground.2) It has a big toe effecting bushing on the front of the LCA. This bushing will add toe out as the cornering forces increase aid in turn in but it changes as the cornering loads change so the car needs more correction as it goes through the turn. For a more stable car, these bushings should be replaced with stiffer ones from Energy Suspension or Mugen.3) The damper/spring combo are really short and placed away from the wheel. This means the motion ration between wheel movement and the damper movement is a lot different than the front ( .588 vs .90). This means you need a lot stiffer spring and higher damped shock in the rear than the front even though the rear has less weight over it. Any time you are looking at spring rates on coil overs, these rates should show this.4) This suspension design is also really effected by ride hight. Lower it to much and side loads from cornering will force the suspension through it travel. The trick is to keep the LCA flat or angled down a little for the suspension to work right.In stock form, the car is designed to have a lot of under steer. With these toe effecting bushings, you get more toe-in in the front and more toe out in the rear so the rear will grip better than the front under load. You also get more negative camber in the rear than the front as the suspension loads. This is all to protect the novice driver and Honda of America. There is a old rule....car goes off the road front first, its the drivers falt. Car goes off the road tail first, its the car makers falt.