As a restaurant concept, “farm-to-table steakhouse” comes off as so buzzwordy that it’s like a “Portlandia” sketch begging to be written. So perhaps it’s not incidental that Guild & Company, which executes the conceit with unfussy charm, sits along the outskirts of Burlington, Vt., the East Coast’s best facsimile of that tongue-in-cheek television utopia.

“A big thing for us opening this restaurant was we wanted to showcase Vermont meats — specifically, beef,” said Phillip Clayton, a partner in the Burlington restaurant group that opened Guild in October 2012. “We didn’t start with a menu and then try to find the products. The products we wanted to feature determined what the menu would look like.”

A family farm in nearby Shelburne supplies Guild’s master butcher with grass-fed, grain-finished steers. Cuts are dry-aged for 30 days, then cooked over a 2,000-pound hand-cranked wood-fire grill. The bone-in rib-eye for two, sliced tableside, is the most popular item. Seared beautifully, my medium-rare portion married charred and grassy flavors with crisp and buttery textures.

Other red-meat options include filet mignon and bone-in New York strip, as well as three mixed-grill options that offer combinations like pork tenderloin and a seafood selection. By popular demand, burgers were added to the menu soon after the Guild opened.