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There have been some legendary barbecue chicken establishments in this city, but few have drawn the fervour of aficionados quite like N.D.G.’s Chalet Bar-B-Q, which goes a long way toward explaining why it is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year.

Regulars come from far and wide, and let’s just say that it’s not for the dim lighting and knotty pine décor from another era. But it is for its attentive service from another era and for its familiarity and, of course, for its — dare I say, for fear that Colonel Sanders may spring from his grave to strike me down — “finger-lickin’-good” chicken, slowly charcoal broiled in ovens that go back to 1944.

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A spirited discussion ensues at one lunchtime table among three buddies who have been frequenting the place since they were kids some 60 years ago.

“It’s obviously the chicken that keeps us coming back,” they coo almost in unison.

“It’s like walking into my parents’ basement here,” says one of the guys, Dave Masterson. “It has always felt like home. But it’s the whole package: the chicken, fries, sauce, coleslaw. It’s unique. There’s nothing like this in the whole planet. I know. I’ve tried so many of the others. But that sauce. … it’s just so addictive.”