Now that the head is off, you can look down inside the passenger side of the engine and see all 12 lifters. There is a special tool you can buy to easily remove the lifters. I had a nifty little magnet (that had a built in light we did not discover until we were done putting everything back together!) that I used to pluck them out of their holes. Here is the bad lifter compared to an OK lifter:Later I discovered once the oil on these had dried that the bad lifter actually wore until a tiny pin hole developed in the face of the lifter, letting out all pressure and causing it to not pump up. Curious what the camshaft looks like?Next, remove the harmonic balancer bolt and then the harmonic balancer with the, you guessed it, harmonic balancer removal tool:I also removed the water pump pulley by removing the 4 bolts. Here is a picture of the harmonic balancer and the water pump pulley removed:Next, remove the timing chain cover. To remove, there are 4 bolts you have to access from the underside apart from the bolts in the front. In the following picture, you can see all four in the blue gasket now that the cover is removed:OK yet again, I got caught up in the work and did not take pictures. I will describe what to do as best as I can. The timing chain and sprockets slip off as one piece. Before you slip it off, make sure it is timed to top dead center on the compression stroke of cylinder 1. We had moved the timing cleaning out the cylinders so we made sure to retime it by lining up the marks on the sprockets. Once the chain and sprockets are off, remove the two bolts on the camshaft thrust plate. Next, learn from our mistake and remove the distributor! The camshaft will not want to come out with the distributor still installed (one bolt on a hold down type bracket and it slips right out). Remove and set aside:To remove the camshaft, thread a long bolt into the camshaft where the sprocket mounted. GENTLY slide the camshaft out of the block. You do not what to knick or scratch the camshaft against the bearings. Once removed, check for wear on the camshaft and camshaft bearings. If the bearings are bad, they will be scored or have a blueish tint from being burned. The camshaft can be measured with a special tool but can be difficult to obtain an accurate number. In my situation, it was clear I needed to replace the camshaft (sorry for the blur):Now the installation is pretty much the reverse of the removal of everything. First things first, be sure to cover the new camshaft (I’d even cover the old one if reusing) in Moly Break In Pre-Lube. Don’t be afraid of it. It’s your friend. Use lots! Once the camshaft is covered, GENTLY slip it back in using a bolt in the camshaft to assist you.Place the camshaft thrust plate back on.Slip the camshaft sprocket and timing chain back on the new camshaft and crankshaft, being sure to align the timing marks on the sprocket.Some timing cover kits come with the timing cover seal. It is recommended to replace this while you have the timing cover off. To do so, yank out the old seal. Check that there are no burrs where the old seal was. Gently press the new one in with the installer kit. It helps to put a dab of oil around the seal’s outer edge.We also installed the Timing Cover Repair Sleeve that came in the kit on the harmonic balancer.I’ll only mention this once right now but it applies for the rest of the installation: before putting on a new gasket, be sure to thoroughly scrape and clean all of the old gasket materials away from both mating surfaces. We went as far as spraying brake cleaner on the surfaces after they were scraped clean to wipe away any oils and grime we may have left on the surface.