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YeeHaw



Registered: 1475574586

Posts: 42 Reply with quote #31 Argh, how humiliating! I rechecked the P/N codes, and I seem to have ordered the whole repair kit (p/n 5008972) complete with pump cover and all, instead of just the impeller kit with springs (p/n 5008968).



No wonder. This one's on me!



However, I asked the dealer for the price of just the impeller, and it's still €39, so not exactly cheap.





ML1







Registered: 1271742295

Posts: 268 Reply with quote #32 Hey ML1, thanks for chiming in with that piece of information. That explains a lot. So a private importer in Norway has exclusive rights for the whole Nordics.. sadly that doesn't sound too promising, and I hope BRP didn't sign a perpetual deal with them. I doubt a private importer has much incentive for developing a dealer and support network in Finland.



YeeHaw i dont know the details about the deal but it has been like this since something like 2008 or there about, so nothing new under the sun. Frydenbö is one of the worlds largest Evinrude dealers. I would think they have an interest in selling these products so they will most certainly keep the network as good as possible, but there will always be blind spots on the map.

YeeHaw



Registered: 1475574586

Posts: 42 Reply with quote #33 ML1, yeah, that would make sense it happened around then. Old OMC outboards are very common here (we also had an Evinrude 35 and then a Johnson 35 in the family), but then Yamaha seems to have taken over the throne. E-tecs are very sparse, and I only found two used 30 hp e-tecs in the whole country(!) when I started looking. I got the other one.



Here's hoping that the dealer network starts growing.



On another note, I asked the dealer for XD100 oil, and a gallon costs €78, but they can't ship it, because the national mail company will not carry oils. Ugh. The closest city with an Evinrude dealer is a 1,5 hour drive away.



I have a hunch that using TC-W3 oil with the appropriate setting is not recommended for trolling. I can envision a sooty engine with loads of carbon build-up that will eventually cause mechanical issues. Soo, currently the plan is to test out the motor with TC-W3, avoiding any trolling sessions, and then pick up a gallon of XD100 when I'm traveling to a bigger city.

YeeHaw



Registered: 1475574586

Posts: 42 Reply with quote #34



It currently has a 15 hp 4-stroke Parsun on it, that I just slapped on to get me by until I find something more fitting. Against all odds it has proven to be reliable, quiet and very good on fuel. However, the boat is clearly too heavy for it, and pretty much acts as a displacement hull. The Evinrude weighs exactly the same as the Parsun, with at least double the power. The recommended power rating for the boat is 25-30 hp.



I'm attaching a picture of my boat that I'm planning to install the motor on. The primary use of this boat is to allow my family safe access to our cabin in a relatively large lake in Eastern Finland. The trip is only about 1 nautical mile away, so not that long, but we can get some pretty nasty waves when the wind is right.It currently has a 15 hp 4-stroke Parsun on it, that I just slapped on to get me by until I find something more fitting. Against all odds it has proven to be reliable, quiet and very good on fuel. However, the boat is clearly too heavy for it, and pretty much acts as a displacement hull. The Evinrude weighs exactly the same as the Parsun, with at least double the power. The recommended power rating for the boat is 25-30 hp.



YeeHaw



Registered: 1475574586

Posts: 42 Reply with quote #35



I removed the gearcase and took apart the water pump today. Old impeller looks intact, but has obviously lost some of its elasticity. I will overhaul the pump, seeing as I bought the complete kit.



steelhead







Registered: 1368180707

Posts: 4,097 Reply with quote #36



Consider Motul outboard synthetic 2 stroke oil. 100% synthetic ester based TC-W3 rated lube. Also 100% biodegradable which many countries will soon require on all waters.



http://www.mekaconsul.com/pdf/Outboard%20Synth%202T_GB.pdf



Will give your motor the same level of protection that XD100 will but far easier to obtain in Finland. Leave the EMM on the TC-W3 oil setting due to the high load level placed on the motor.



If Motul is not available, try the Shell Nautilus outboard 2 stroke lube.



http://www.ktstrade.com.my/shell/technical%20data/0030.pdf







Try ordering your Evinrude parts from our site sponsor, the one who pays the electrical and site costs for etechownergroup.com.

Mr. Evinrude aka Joe.

Best to call him or write

Barnicle Bill's Marine Good catch on the WP impeller. High amount of wear on the leading edges of the blades. Also wear grooves in the impeller stainless steel cup from sand or shell trapped on impeller hub end. Both of which reduce WP efficiency. Need maximum cooling to push that heavy displacement hull.Consider Motul outboard synthetic 2 stroke oil. 100% synthetic ester based TC-W3 rated lube. Also 100% biodegradable which many countries will soon require on all waters.Will give your motor the same level of protection that XD100 will but far easier to obtain in Finland. Leave the EMM on the TC-W3 oil setting due to the high load level placed on the motor.If Motul is not available, try the Shell Nautilus outboard 2 stroke lube.Try ordering your Evinrude parts from our site sponsor, the one who pays the electrical and site costs for etechownergroup.com.Mr. Evinrude aka Joe.Best to call him or writeBarnicle Bill's Marine

YeeHaw



Registered: 1475574586

Posts: 42 Reply with quote #37 Steelhead, thanks for your input and advice.



Motul oils are more readily available than XD100, but Motul's synthetic 2-stroke outboard oil is tougher to find. I actually already bought 1l of Shell Nautilus Premium to get me started, but it appears to be mineral oil. I would have easy access to Star-Brite Super Premium and Premium oils (both are described as synthetic blends, so still not fully synthetic). Will keep looking. And yes, the boat is indeed quite heavy at 380 kg / 840 lbs.



Thanks for the heads up on Joe's store. Sadly all orders from US will receive full-on customs treatment and import taxing in Finland, topped with all kinds of handling fees, so it's not usually viable I'm afraid.









steelhead







Registered: 1368180707

Posts: 4,097 Reply with quote #38

I would not hesitate using it.



Some tests comparisons done with SB's Premium which has 1/2 the synthetic lube percentage compared to the Super Premium



http://mystarbrite.com/public/pdf/LIT062_TCW3.pdf The Starbrite Super Premium is a high quality TC-W3 outboard lube. The largest boating marine store in the US, West Marine, has carried the brand for years, so must not get many customer complaints.I would not hesitate using it.Some tests comparisons done with SB's Premium which has 1/2 the synthetic lube percentage compared to the Super Premium

YeeHaw



Registered: 1475574586

Posts: 42 Reply with quote #39 That's reassuring -- I will go with Starbrite Super Premium then. Thanks for the help!

YeeHaw



Registered: 1475574586

Posts: 42 Reply with quote #40



My current control box and cables are of the Morse/Teleflex 33C type. The motor came with Evinrude/OMC-type cables, which I quickly learned were incompatible with my box. Luckily, there are adapter kits available, so I placed an order for a 33C/Evinrude adapter. Then I checked the throttle direction, and Evinrude appears to use push-to-throttle. My Tohatsu box is -- you guessed it -- pull-to-throttle.



Luckily the old control box I used with the Parsun is a Nissan box, that is an exact copy of the Tohatsu box (that is internally a copy of the Yamaha 703 box), and having previously converted the Nissan box from pull to push (according to instructions found here:



I also checked the BRP product code for the water pump impeller (0395289), and it appears to be the same impeller that OMC has used in their 20-35hp motors since the eighties, so they are readily available at least.



Edit: Ah, I also still need to find a suitable steering link arm. Can anyone confirm whether OMC part 173699 is the correct link arm? (or perhaps 174244?) Judging by some videos I looked at, the link arm has the slight bend about 1/3 distance from the motor. Thanks! I've been tackling with the control side of things while I wait for the water pump kit to arrive.My current control box and cables are of the Morse/Teleflex 33C type. The motor came with Evinrude/OMC-type cables, which I quickly learned were incompatible with my box. Luckily, there are adapter kits available, so I placed an order for a 33C/Evinrude adapter. Then I checked the throttle direction, and Evinrude appears to use push-to-throttle. My Tohatsu box is -- you guessed it -- pull-to-throttle.Luckily the old control box I used with the Parsun is a Nissan box, that is an exact copy of the Tohatsu box (that is internally a copy of the Yamaha 703 box), and having previously converted the Nissan box from pull to push (according to instructions found here: http://kaplan1.com/yamaha/ ), I will just need to swap the lever assembly from the Nissan box to the Tohatsu box to make it push-to-throttle.I also checked the BRP product code for the water pump impeller (0395289), and it appears to be the same impeller that OMC has used in their 20-35hp motors since the eighties, so they are readily available at least.Edit: Ah, I also still need to find a suitable steering link arm. Can anyone confirm whether OMC part 173699 is the correct link arm? (or perhaps 174244?) Judging by some videos I looked at, the link arm has the slight bend about 1/3 distance from the motor. Thanks!

Huey



Moderator

Registered: 1208733337

Posts: 13,858 Reply with quote #41 Yes the impeller used with the 25/30HP has been around for years. I would find a good OMC/BRP control box instead of trying to make a non genuine one work with the correct "throw" for the gearshift and throttle. Even a new one is not that expensive The correct drag link kit is 173699.



On that boat too you are going to need a small pitch prop to get the revs to around 5500RPM at WOT.

YeeHaw



Registered: 1475574586

Posts: 42 Reply with quote #42 Thanks, Huey - that helps!



A genuine box would certainly be the best and easiest option. I guess the price for a new one is somewhere upwards of 400 euro, so before going that route, I'll see where I get with what I have at hand. Granted, it takes a bit of tinkering, but I don't mind -- no harm in trying, and I will only be out the price of the cable adapter if it doesn't work. Failing that, I will either get a Morse control box (those are built like tanks and universally applicable) or a used OMC box.



And to throw some salt in the wounds, when I looking for used BRP/OMC boxes, someone was actually selling a near-mint BRP box earlier this year for 30 euro. Seller probably didn't know how much they go for, so understandably it sold quickly.



And yes, the prop. I bought a Solas 11' pitch prop, which should work well with the boat. I think it was the smallest pitch prop readily available: any smaller, and I would have been looking at 15 hp kicker props. Anyway, I will post RPM figures when I finally splash the boat, which will hopefully happen this autumn still (it's starting to look like the lakes are going to freeze up before I have the boat ready for the water -- still waiting for that w/p kit to arrive).





YeeHaw



Registered: 1475574586

Posts: 42 Reply with quote #43



1) I installed a separate fuel filter / water separator on the boat. I had given it some thought previously, but now, having a fuel-injected motor, I finally got around to actually buying and installing one. I decided on a universal/Mercury one without the see-through bowl, as it seemed to have the best availability for replacement filters. It's a cheap life insurance for the injectors.



2) Ordered the steering link arm / drag arm kit from a breaker's. Should be here next week.



3) I researched the cable throws online, and got a bit concerned after finding a post stating that Evinrude uses a shorter throw than Merc/Yami, so measured the shift link strokes in both the box and the motor: the throw in the box is 7 cm, with neutral in the middle at 3.5 cm. The shift linkage in the motor also appears to have a total travel of 7 cm, so it looks good.



4) I swapped the pull-throttle linkage in the Tohatsu box for the push-throttle version in my Nissan box (see image).



Some more updates.1) I installed a separate fuel filter / water separator on the boat. I had given it some thought previously, but now, having a fuel-injected motor, I finally got around to actually buying and installing one. I decided on a universal/Mercury one without the see-through bowl, as it seemed to have the best availability for replacement filters. It's a cheap life insurance for the injectors.2) Ordered the steering link arm / drag arm kit from a breaker's. Should be here next week.3) I researched the cable throws online, and got a bit concerned after finding a post stating that Evinrude uses a shorter throw than Merc/Yami, so measured the shift link strokes in both the box and the motor: the throw in the box is 7 cm, with neutral in the middle at 3.5 cm. The shift linkage in the motor also appears to have a total travel of 7 cm, so it looks good.4) I swapped the pull-throttle linkage in the Tohatsu box for the push-throttle version in my Nissan box (see image).



Huey



Moderator

Registered: 1208733337

Posts: 13,858 Reply with quote #44 Good work and keep us informed how you go. We do not get Nissan engines here but from what I know they are the same as a Tohatsu so the throttle and gear action should be the same.