And those famous New York steakhouses can be downright snooty, but Cattlemen’s made us feel right at home from the minute my sister and I arrived in the parking lot. There we were greeted by a horse-and-buggy that provided a free ride from our car to the restaurant door, steps away.

I’ll admit we were puzzled when the bartender served my sister’s martini in a water glass, but the waiter was suitably horrified and immediately transferred it to the right stemware. Then we looked at the menu and wondered if we’d be laughed out of Oklahoma for asking for some modifications. The menu listed the filet mignon as being wrapped in bacon and the broccoli topped with cheese; we wanted ours bare. But our waiter didn’t blink an eye at our request, and in fact, after confiding that his son was a vegan, he brought us a more interesting dish that we saw on a neighboring table — mixed veggies, not just broccoli, simple but steamed to perfection.