Marks and Spencer has been accused of cultural appropriation after it released a vegan wrap labelled as a biryani.

The chain has been criticised by a top chef and an London-based Indian restaurant, who say the product is inauthentic and does not reflect the traditional dish.

Indian cookbook author Maunika Gowardhan took to social media to question the product - while restaurant Darjeeling Express tweeted that the wrap was "so wrong at SO many levels".

There are over 20 different regional varieties of biryanis across india. With spices & techniques unique to regions. That might be too technical to convey but atleast get the basics right. It’s a dish. Flavours are relative to regions. The common thread they all have rice! https://t.co/Yii1EKlBhu — Maunika Gowardhan (@cookinacurry) January 29, 2019

The wrap, which costs £2.80, contains sweet potato, rice, buckwheat and roasted red pepper.

An Indian biryani is traditionally a meat-based rice dish served in a bowl.


Juliana Ali, manager of the Jewel In The Crown curry house in Swindon - open for 32 years, told Sky News it's the fact the product is in a wrap that is the issue.

"I wouldn't say that (the wrap) is a biryani because a biryani is a rice-based dish and we don't use wraps when we make one - that's a no-no. And sweet potato is something we don't traditionally use either.

"It's great that M&S is trying to show that there are different varieties of food out there, but we'd like it to be truer to its nature," she added.

Image: A chicken biryani is among the most popular dishes in Indian cuisine

It's not the first time the retailer has been accused of cultural appropriation.

It was criticised over the authenticity of its curry kits just last year, while Jamie Oliver came under fire for selling microwaveable jerk rice.

Even the humble Cornish pasty hasn't escaped the controversy, after a vegan version was launched.

But while some find the wrap culturally offensive, others simply see it as just another grab-and-go option for lunch.

Food scientist Dr Anil de Sequeira, from Bath Spa University, works with students to develop new products for supermarkets.

He told Sky News that Marks and Spencer has not committed cultural appropriation:

"They've basically taken a biryani and innovated it and put it into a wrap... it's still got the composition of a biryani, it's still got the characteristics of a biryani. It's got the rice, it's got the vegetables... I don't see any problem with it."

In a statement, the company said: "M&S is famous for its food innovation and our developers use a fusion of different flavours and ingredients to create an exciting range of products to appeal to customers' tastes."