We ask experts as well as sellers what goes behind the products

Malayalis have always been known for their love for anything traditional as well as healthy. And so, naadan or organic is the keyword for the health conscious Malayali today, whether it is chicken, fish, egg, rice or vegetables. Price is secondary here and they are ready to take that leap of faith as long as the foods have the organic tag attached. Are the extra bucks we pay for all things ‘natural’ justified? Are the foods healthier and tastier? We ask experts as well as sellers what goes behind the products.

The predominant reason for the surge in price in organic variants of fish, meat, egg etc is the quality, says Antony Kandirickal, president of The Kerala Agricultural Development Society (KADS) Palarivattom. Naadan or country chicken is reared in a free atmosphere, while in the case of the broiler chicken, around 1,000 of them are kept in confined spaces, and provided artificial means to survive. By the 40th day, the latter would attain the expected growth, way ahead of their natural growth. “The taste of an organic chicken is invariably different because of the feed given to it,” he says.

Antony adds that organic chicken can be equated to human beings who are physically fit because of eating right and doing exercises. “The chickens are allowed to roam free, eating healthy grass and leaves, worms and other nutrients it needs. As a result, they will be in good health and will have better resistance. The eggs that they lay will be quite different as well, and will have a different taste.”

A naadan egg costs `8, while the other is sold at `4.50 each. “The chicken reared in an organic manner is brought to the city or towns from the interiors. The transportation charges also lead to the rise in price.”

Joby Mathew, manager of KADS, says that the same applies to naadan varieties of fish as well. “In order to rear fish in a healthy atmosphere, there has to be a proper water body as a source, as well as regular checks on the pH value of the water in which they are bred. Even when they are taken care of privately in houses, aspects like proper air circulation are mandatory.”

When the fish are taken care of in such a way by salaried people, and when so much time and effort is invested into the rearing, it leads to a rise in price, which is completely valid, according to Joby. The ice in which the fish is stored is also crucial, he adds. “Most often, the fish will absorb the chemicals present in the ice, which is harmful when consumed.”

Also, antibiotics should not be used in fish rearing, says Shibin Das, Operations Manager of a prominent seafood producer in the city. “The fish on which antibiotics are used are considered rejected food in testing labs.”

Another specialty of organic foods is that they are not hybrid varieties, grown solely for commercial purposes, says Dr CN Manoj, environmentalist. “Non-organic products are often artificially selected, with a focus on the yield, size, colour and body mass. They are grown artificially through cross pollination. But for those that come under natural selection, it is more about the survival of the fittest. In natural surroundings they generate a lot of biochemicals, which are nutritious.”

Also, the hybrid varieties of animals and plants will have only primary nutrients such as carbohydrates, fats and protein. “What we require more are secondary nutrients such as minerals, vitamins and antioxidants,” Manoj adds.

For example, hybrid banana will have magnesium and potassium, but lacks micro nutrients and antioxidants, as it becomes bigger. “The bigger the fruit, the less the nutrient density,” says Manoj.

Voicing a similar view is Dr P Rajendran, associate director of research, Regional Agricultural Research Station, Ambalavayal. “The darker the skin of the banana, the tastier and more nutritious it is. Because the banana imbibes the antioxidants present in its skin.”

Manoj compares having organic products to taking food supplements. “Only people who want a better quality of life go for supplements.”

At the same time, the consumers are often caught in a web of doubts, whether the items they buy is ‘organic enough’. Foodie Paul Varghese from Kochi says, “If they are really healthier to consume, I am ever ready to spend money on them. But how far can we trust the vendors when they say something is naadan or jaivam?”

There is no analytical method, to differentiate organic and non-organic, says Manoj. “A Good Agricultural Practices (GAP) certificate can only find out the residue of chemical pesticides. But they are sold as organic.You can never find out if a product is completely organic with the certificate,” he says.

Often, many exploit the organic label, agrees Rajendran, though there are a lot of farmers who take utmost care in growing their produce. This tendency to exploit the consumers has to be scrutinised regularly by authorities, and steps taken, he adds. “The entire system has to be made fool-proof. If a product is actually naadan, it will keep the doctor away,” he says. In addition, the organic items will have a better shelf life, though the yield will be comparatively less, so there is no need for pesticides or artificial agents, he concludes.

