8 California small towns to visit right now From adventure basecamps where mountain biking is religion to Gold Rush relics reborn as wine havens, these under-the-radar destinations have all the makings of a great weekend away.

From its southern border to its northern reaches, California covers about 164,000 square miles. That’s more than the area of the United Kingdom, South Korea and Denmark combined. And yet, when long weekends come around, it’s easy to fall back on the same destinations — places we know, and love, and have been a dozen times. Read more

Riverside County Idyllwild (population 3,874) Drive 5,000 feet up into the San Jacinto mountains above Palm Springs, traversing a series of knuckle-whitening switchbacks, and you will eventually arrive at an artsy little town called Idyllwild. It is, as the name suggests, both idyllic and wild. The community is surrounded by woodsy parkland and great rocks, like a junior-varsity Yosemite, and the town itself combines a crunchy off-the-grid feel with the retro vibrations of Wes Anderson’s happy-camper fantasia “Moonrise Kingdom.” Up here, you’ll spend most of your time outside, and you’ll be amazed at how different the climate is from the desert down below. Pack a cozy sweater and a hardy pair of boots. If your goal is to rack up miles on long walks through the trees, you can certainly do that. But Idyllwild also makes an ideal place for quiet contemplation. Stressed out? Burned out? Need a place to bliss out? Head to Idyllwild, find a panoramic view, spread out a blanket and just sit. Then, once you’ve got your mind right, proceed with the following itinerary. Note: Due to road repairs after winter storms, the best way to reach Idyllwild this summer is from the south via Highways 371 or 74. Post up at Hicksville Pines The hipster sister property of a “trailer palace and artist retreat” in Joshua Tree, Hicksville Pines is a combo of campy motel and mountaintop chalet where each room has its own look and theme. Solo travelers and couples should snag the rustic one-bedroom tribute to Dolly Parton, complete with a wood tub and Dolly pinball machine. If you have a large group (or are a David Lynch fanatic), stay in the Great Northern, a three-bedroom ode to “Twin Peaks.” 23481 CA-243, Idyllwild, 310-584-1086, hicksville.com. Go for a hike Hiking is to Idyllwild what skiing is to Tahoe: a physical activity that borders on religion. Try the Ernie Maxwell Scenic Trail. At five round-trip miles, it’s easy, but not too easy, and it affords gorgeous scenery. The massive granite Tahquitz Rock looms overhead at the start, and you’ll step lightly over creek water as you wind your way through the San Bernardino National Forest. Bonus: The parking lot is about six inches away from the trailhead, so you just get out and go. Adventure Pass ($5) required for parking at Humber Park Trailhead can be purchased at ranger station or businesses in town. fs.usda.gov. Stock up on crystals No hippie mountain town is complete without a store selling turquoise earrings, beaded necklaces and obsidian arrowheads. Larry and Janet Everitt run the one in Idyllwild, Everitt’s Minerals & Gallery, where you can even buy loose stones for them to cut and set in custom jewelry. 54300 North Circle Drive, Idyllwild, 951-659-7075, everittsminerals.com. Meet the mayor (and rub his belly) The mayor of Idyllwild will never lie to you. He will never have a campaign-finance scandal. He will, in fact, always be a good boy. Because the mayor of Idyllwild is a 6-year-old golden retriever named Max. You can peruse his calendar of appearances online — though if you hang around town long enough, you’ll surely run into him carrying out his official responsibility: “to make the world a better place by conveying unconditional love.” mayormax.com. Drink a well-earned beer An indoor-outdoor tavern just on the edge of town, Idyllwild Brewpub serves as a casual clubhouse where weary hikers rest their legs and wet their whistles. Grab a seat on the deck, order the saltiest soft pretzel known to man and wash it down with a Resilience IPA, proceeds of which benefit victims of the Camp Fire. 54423 Village Center Drive, Idyllwild, 951-659-0163, idyllwildbrewpub.com. Detour: Pioneertown For a particularly interesting diversion in the wild scrub of Southern California, come down from the mountain and drive through Palm Springs toward Joshua Tree until you hit Pioneertown. You’ll know you’re there when you feel as though you’ve stumbled onto a 1940s movie set built by Gene Autry … because that’s exactly what it is. Or was. Today, new shops fill the vintage facades, and the local roadhouse is Pappy + Harriet’s, a bar and restaurant that doubles as a 300-seat rock venue for national indie bands, local open-mikers and the occasional legend. In 2016, Paul McCartney played. visitpioneertown.com. — Nick Marino

Del Norte County Crescent City (population 6,805) Crescent City, the northernmost coastal town in California, is wild. It is tough to imagine that a city as sleepy and isolated exists in the same state as its bustling southern siblings with which it shares a coast. But 20 miles south of the Oregon border, Crescent City is an excellent place to spend a day. What the town might not deliver in Michelin-starred restaurants or five-star accommodations, it makes up for in easily accessible dramatic coastline, dense Redwood forests and pristine rivers. Paddle out Rent an 8-foot foam board from Local Boys Surf Shop and go surf one of the ample fun peaks spread out over South Beach. If the wind puts a session-ruining chop on the water, grab a basic kite from Tidal Wave 101, which sells tie-dye and beach supplies, and spend a few hours enjoying the hypnotic effects of flying those simple machines. Local Boys Surf Shop, 503 L St., Crescent City, 707-460-6060, www.localboyssurfshop.com. Tidal Wave 101, 1070 US Highway 101 N., Crescent City, 707-951-5129. Boat the Smith Redwood Rides Adventure Outfitters offers a 5.5-mile guided inflatable kayak trip along the Smith River that delivers a genuinely unique angle from which to ogle the redwoods. The giant trees appear even more magnificent because the river’s low vantage point adds a layer of perspective into their impressive root systems. Called Redwoods By River ($84 adult half day), the trip is kid-, dog- and beginner-friendly thanks to its continuous class I and II rapids while never slowing down enough to get boring. 2100 US-199, Crescent City, 707-951-6559, www.redwoodrides.com. Taco time Whether you spend your morning at South Beach or on the Smith River, lunch awaits at the North Coast Grill. Get the Three Baja Tacos ($12.99) and make sure to get one fish, one calamari and one grilled shrimp taco to celebrate every option the restaurant offers. Pair it with a local Port O’Pints Agate Ale ($4.75) and make sure to snag a seat in their glass-walled patio so you can reminisce about how fun your surf was as you replenish the calories you burned. 110 Anchor Way, Crescent City, 707-465-1465, northcoastgrill.com. Feel the force Five miles northeast of town, Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park boasts the best hikes in wild river country. Hike through Stout Grove and you’ll quickly see why George Lucas chose this park as the location to film the Endor scenes in “The Return of the Jedi.” The massive old-growth redwood trees and densely mossed forest floor make the place look truly otherworldly. Before leaving, take a dip in the gin-clear Smith River to freshen up for dinner. www.parks.ca.gov. Ale aboard Born in a barn during family get-togethers, today SeaQuake Brewing has graduated to a 15-barrel brewhouse and restaurant where you’d be wise to grab dinner. Start with the Fog Line Pale Ale ($5.50), then move on to food. While the whole menu is worth checking out, you’d be blowing it if you didn’t order one of their wood-fired pizzas, which range in flavor from classic Margherita to the Jobiano, topped with ranch sauce, chicken, mango habanero jack cheese, tomatoes and bacon. You’re unlikely to find another spot open for a nightcap, so fill a growler with SeaQuake’s Chocolate Porter before you go. 400 Front St., Crescent City, 707-465-4444, seaquakebrewing.com Detour: Bull Creek Flats Avenue of the Giants is often a favorite stop for travelers headed to Humboldt County, and though the scenic drive is fantastic, skip it for a hike on Bull Creek Flats inside Humboldt Redwoods State Park. This considerably less-utilized grove of redwoods is no less majestic at 10,000 acres, and boasts loads of low-key hikes without the hordes of visitors. www.parks.ca.gov. — Joe Jackson

Sonoma County Forestville (population 3,293) Many people drive right through Forestville along Highway 116 in Sonoma and never stop. That’s because the town is on the way from Sebastopol to Guerneville (and then the coast), because the main drag is no more than three blocks long and because the unincorporated hamlet is usually more of an afterthought than a destination. But take the time to stop and explore the circa-1830 town, and you’ll find a bohemian paradise that’s a hotbed of culinary prowess, winemaking wizardry and outdoor recreation a short drive (or bike ride or walk) from the Russian River. Not your average breads A wood-fired oven is the centerpiece of Nightingale Breads, which sells handmade organic loaves out of a former real estate office Wednesday through Sunday. In addition to traditional offerings such as sourdough, multigrain and baguettes, owner Jessie Frost bakes up a different special each day: rye, cinnamon raisin or challah. Time your visit right and you might spot seasonal treats such as cornbread and chocolate canelés, too. 6665 Front St., Forestville, 707-887-8887, nightingalebreads.com. Wine and butterflies Local tasting rooms such as Ryme and Joseph Jewell get love from critics, but Russian River Vineyards is on the upswing. The main winery building is designed like an old hop kiln — a nod to the site’s origin as a family farm in the 1890s. Today the place is all about organic wine. Co-owner and winemaker Gio Balestreri makes bold pinot noirs along with a host of other varieties, and, new this summer, the winery has developed a garden with milkweed and other plants to attract monarch butterflies. Grab a glass of wine and go for a stroll. 5700 Highway 116 N., Forestville, 707-887-3344, russianrivervineyards.com. Farm-to-table hot spot Everyone is family at Backyard, a rustic, hacienda-style restaurant that anchors Forestville’s petite downtown. The approach from owners/chefs Daniel Kedan and Marianna Gardenhire exemplifies farm-to-table cuisine, with most dishes incorporating produce from the house farm and other operations nearby. Favorites include the buttermilk fried chicken, available with sides that change daily, and an appetizer platter of veggies pickled in-house. On sunny days, ask for a table under the old oak tree on the front patio. 6566 Front St., Forestville, 707-820-8445, backyardforestville.com. Booze, music, billiards Even if the Forestville Club weren’t the only bar in Forestville, it’d still be worth the visit. On weekend nights the place transforms into a rollicking roadhouse with live music, dancing, drinking and other related indulgences. The club had to shut down for a while last year when county inspectors deemed its 100-year-old building unsafe. After necessary repairs, thank goodness it’s open again. 6250 Front St., Forestville, 707-887-2594. Path to enlightenment The 5.5-mile West County Regional Trail links small towns such as Sebastopol, Graton and Forestville on a paved route perfect for strolling or bicycling. The trail, which winds alongside vineyards and idyllic open spaces, is accessible from downtown Forestville via an unpaved spur that begins beyond the picnic tables in the downtown park. On the opposite end it connects with the paved Joe Rodota Trail, which follows Highway 12 into Santa Rosa. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov. Detour: Graton Another hidden hamlet closer to Sebastopol (and, therefore, Highway 101) is Graton. This former agricultural hub has transformed into an upscale strip with restaurants such as Underwood, a bistro that has become a reliable spot for celebrity-winemaker sightings (Merry Edwards is a regular). The Graton Gallery brings together original artwork from artists and artisans from all over west Sonoma County, and there are also a handful of wineries and tasting rooms in and around the area. On a hot summer day, nothing quenches thirst like a rosé from Red Car Wine Co. — Matt Villano

Nevada County Nevada City (population 3,142) The slow route to Nevada City ribbons through forested Sierra foothills past place names like Harmony Ridge, Rough & Ready and You Bet that reflect the feisty optimism that shaped the American West. They’ll put you in the mood to explore Nevada City, a Gold Rush town that swelled to a population of 10,000 before the lode ran dry. Today, that history is on display in the downtown district’s old-school storefronts and forest trails that skirt old mine sites. Hike into the past, browse local boutiques, and embrace the spooky hollows and majestic pine groves that have long attracted independent thinkers like Beat poet Gary Snyder, folk singer Utah Phillips and speed-of-sound hero Chuck Yeager. Follow this itinerary for the best of this lovely Gold Rush town. Hike an ancient trail Explore paths preserved in the hillsides and meadows between and the Bear and Yuba rivers. The Bear Yuba Land Trust makes hiking expeditions easy along 35 miles of trails that vary from short to long, and paved for wheelchair access to rugged paths. Close to town, the Deer Creek Tribute Trail leads to the Nisenan Tribute Bridge, a 150-foot span that trembles under the weight of footsteps four stories above Deer Creek. The trail passes old mine sites, replica Nisenan petroglyphs and a monument to Nevada City’s early Chinese. www.bylt.org. Take the plunge To the north, the South Fork Yuba River splashes between giant granite boulders into pools kept chilly by the Sierra snowpack. Follow historic Highway 49, seven miles northwest to the river crossing, where you’ll find trailheads for Independence Trail and South Yuba Trail (watch for poison oak and ticks). Swimming holes lie beneath the bridge and along the trails. Screw up your courage, take a deep breath and brave the plunge. (NOTE: Rivers in the Sierra have been running high this summer, which can pose danger to swimmers and day trippers. Check conditions and alerts before you go and be careful!) www.bylt.org. Wander and wonder Nevada City’s historic downtown brims with independent shops as specific as the historical brick or clapboard buildings they inhabit. The spunky vintage collections at Tiger Alley showcase fabrics, prints and shapes of once-cutting-edge designs. Let the clerks help you assemble the perfect outfit, then walk out in new-to-you bomber jacket, kimono and platform shoes. Outside Inn owner Erin Thiem’s blog at outsideinn.com profiles the shops among suggestions of other fun stops. 400 Broad St., Nevada City, 530-470-6165, tigeralleync.com. Embrace the odd At the 1861 Firehouse No. 1 Museum, circle historical exhibits dedicated to the Nisenan people, the Chinese community and the town’s early pioneers. As a special treat, kids can point out a favorite object from the town’s rambunctious past — an opium pipe, a tiny wedding dress or a charred human toe bone found at Donner Lake (where the Donner Party endured a brutal winter in 1846-47) — and in return receive a miniature fossil or a piece of malachite containing a bit of fool’s gold. 214 Main St., Nevada City, 530-265-5468, nevadacountyhistory.org. Bend your taste buds Three Forks Bakery & Brewing Co. is fiercely dedicated to making things in-house, from pastries and pies to bread and beer, and its seasonally changing menu is worth a visit for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Try the head cheese and pork pate sandwich, or the lamb sausage pizza perked up with fennel, onion and garlic, best paired with a beer from the seven-barrel brewhouse. Artist and cultural interpreter Ruth Chase loves any sandwich served on the house-made focaccia, which she says “has just the right amount of crisp with salt.” 211 Commercial St., Nevada City, 530-470-8333, threeforksnc.com. Detour: Empire Mine State Historical Park In nearby Grass Valley, “the Secret Room” at the Empire Mine State Historic Park shows just how far beneath the Earth’s surface Cornish miners (and other workers who came from all over the globe) burrowed during their hardscrabble search for gold. A scale model inside the room documents the 367 miles of tunnels (now flooded and abandoned) that webbed the hard rock to extract 5.8 million ounces of gold before the mine closed in 1956. Explore mine buildings and the owner’s home and gardens, then descend into an actual mine shaft for the tiniest glimpse of Gold Rush life. 10791 East Empire St., Grass Valley, 530-273-8522, empiremine.org. — Laura Read

Mendocino County Point Arena (population 453) Three hours north of the Golden Gate Bridge, California comes to a sharp angle in Point Arena. Surrounded by a shallow, rocky reef, the spit of land that juts into the Pacific here was the site of approximately a shipwreck a month before a lighthouse was built in 1870, saving countless sailors from a salty death and kicking off the growth of Point Arena five miles south. Growth, however, is a relative term. Today, Point Arena is still a village, the kind of place you can zoom through and barely notice along Highway 1. But take the time to stop and explore, and you’ll be forced into a lovely slowness because the landscape demands to be savored and because, well, there just isn’t that much to do. Wander the wind-swept bluffs and gaze at the ocean, stroll the compact downtown where everyone says hello, accept a wet kiss from a sociable giraffe and … wait. What? Welcome to Point Arena. See the light Built on a point jutting 3.5 miles west of the mainland, the historic Point Arena Lighthouse and Museum is a working lighthouse that still flashes a warning to approaching mariners from its whitewashed 115-foot-tall tower. Climb 145 steps to reach the top, worth the cardio for 360-degree views of the Mendocino coast, and a quick talk that illuminates the lighthouse’s past and present. 45500 Lighthouse Rd., Point Arena, 877-725-4448, www.pointarenalighthouse.com. Treat yourself This closet-sized Main Street bakery smells like the precise moment dough becomes cookie. Run by mother-daughter pair Barbara Burkey and Frances Robbings, Franny’s Cup & Saucer is so packed with cupcakes, pastries and sweet temptations that you can walk in to buy lunch and walk out with a doughnut, a Danish and zero regrets. Ask about the daily specials, like a Friday-only doughnut filled with bay leaf custard and topped with vanilla glaze and peach compote. 213 Main St., Point Arena, 707-882-2500, www.frannyscupandsaucer.com. Wander a national monument When President Barack Obama declared the Point Arena-Stornetta Public Lands the first land-based section of the California Coastal National Monument in 2014, he signed a proclamation listing its virtues as a habitat for marine mammals, native plants and an array of birds. Here’s what you need to know: It’s gorgeous — rambling and quiet, full of tiny trails that lead through wildflowers to empty coves and across natural bridges. Take your time, take your camera, take a thousand photos. www.mendocinolandtrust.org. Meet the locals Behind the ornate front gate, the 110-acre B. Bryan Preserve hardly resembles Mendocino at all. That’s because of its star residents: sable antelope with long curving horns, endangered Grévy’s zebras striped with topographic patterns, skittish kudu hiding behind trees and a cape buffalo who keeps company with a cow (all born and raised in captivity). But the highlight for visitors who tour B. Bryan in vintage Land Rovers or spend the night in on-site cottages are the Rothschild giraffes — friendly fellows apt to lean massive heads over the fence and greet guests with a wet, black-tongued kiss. 130 Riverside Dr., Point Arena, 707-882-2297, www.bbryanpreserve.com. Farm-fresh feast In the middle of Point Arena’s main drag, a red doorway marks the inventive Bird Café and Supper Club, where chef Aaron Peters (formerly of San Francisco’s PlumpJack Café) cooks whatever he feels like based on what’s fresh from the ocean, field and ranch. On Thursdays and Fridays, the chef serves small plates: Think roasted oysters with Thai vinaigrette and purple barley pappardelle with Dungeness crab. Saturday is Supper Club, a reservation-only, prix fixe feast that frequently sells out. 190 Main St., Point Arena, 707-882-1600, birdcafepa.com. Detour: Schooner Gulch State Beach A few miles south of town at the Bowling Ball Beach area within Schooner Gulch State Beach, low tide reveals a geologic oddity: rows of boulders formed into spheres by the opposing forces of erosion and concretion. Scattered along the shoreline, they look like a public art installation or a giant’s game of marbles. www.parks.ca.gov. — Sarah Feldberg

Calaveras County Murphys (population 2,213) The Gold Rush town of Murphys in the Sierra Nevada foothills is finding new wealth beyond the Mother Lode in the form of wine. Calaveras County (and the Sierra Foothills American Viticultural Area) is a growing region for hearty Spanish and Italian varietals like Barbera, Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Nebbiolo, Grenache, Graciano, Albarino, Marsanne, Verdelho and Symphony — as well as old-vine Zinfandels, robust Cabernet and Petite Sirah. Home to family vineyards ranging in size from a few acres to 80, there are more than 30 family-owned and -operated boutique wineries in Murphys. All of them welcome visitors year-round and many have tasting rooms right on Main Street, easy strolling distance of one another. For wine drinkers seeking a break from Napa and Sonoma, this sweet spot is still flying under the radar. Raise a glass Roll into the laid-back tasting room and patio at Newsome Harlow Wines, complete with an extremely roomy couch, firepit and occasional movies. Kids and dogs are welcome, and the adjacent park with shady trees and swimming hole is an ideal place to spend your pre- or post-tasting time. The winery works with some of the greatest Zinfandel vineyards in the Sierra foothills, but has lighter varietals as well. 403 Main St., Murphys, 209-728-9817, www.nhvino.com. Three-meal goodness Whether it’s a hearty breakfast after (oops) too many glasses of wine, a mountain-style big burrito lunch to fuel your adventures, or an elegant dinner of cioppino or bone-in duroc pork chop — Grounds Restaurant can deliver it all. The wine menu features a rich selection from local wineries, so you can continue the tasting tour. 402 Main St., Murphys, 209-728-8663, www.groundsrestaurant.com. Sundae fun day During the summer Sierra heat, JoMa’s Artisan Ice Cream shop is a refreshing refuge with a wealth of up to 20 flavors of handcrafted small-batch sorbet and ice cream — from salted caramel to wild berry to pineapple coconut. 386 Main St., Murphys, (209) 728-8655, jomasicecream.com. Wine down Hatcher Winery’s cellar tasting room, a cozy, cave-like space, is one of the best spots to relax with a glass of wine. Which one? You’ll have to decide among the winery’s list, which covers the spectrum from white to red to dessert, all from fruit grown in the local region. The best idea: Taste through the options and then slow down with a glass or two of your favorite. 425 Main St., Murphys, 209-768-0844, www.hatcherwinery.com. Soak it in Book a bed-and-breakfast stay at the centrally located Victoria Inn. Built in 1992, it feels much older, thanks to details from the rich history of the region like old-school claw-foot baths and wood-burning fireplaces alongside modern conveniences like spa tubs and gas fireplaces. 402 Main St. H, Murphys, 209-728-8933, www.victoriainn-murphys.com. Detour: Calaveras Big Trees State Park The giant sequoias in this park are thought to be 2,000 years old, ancient trees already fully grown when the first miners flooded in. Drive past the North Grove for the more pristine and lesser-visited South Grove, where it’s wonderfully quiet and you can enjoy feeling small in the presence of these massive living relics. www.parks.ca.gov. —Jill K. Robinson

Plumas County Graeagle (population 737) This region is called the Lost Sierra for a reason: Enter this hidden pocket of northern California, an hour past Truckee on Highway 89, and your cell phone barely works, crowds don’t exist, and the mining vibe and historic towns make you feel like you’ve traveled back in time. But Graeagle (pronounced gray-eagle) is becoming a current destination, thanks in part to a recent uptick in purpose-built mountain bike trails. Nearby Downieville has long been a mountain biker’s haven for its Downieville Downhill, which packs 5,000 vertical feet of descent into 17 miles. Now bikers are flocking to Graeagle for the 9-mile Mills Peak Trail, a 3,033-foot drop with views of the entire Lakes Basin Recreation Area, now entirely single-track after a final section was completed in 2018. Not into biking? The town also has a championship 18-hole golf course, hiking along the Pacific Crest Trail and, come September, the four-day Lost Sierra Hoedown, a campout with live music that’s not your average festival. Get outfitted Yuba Expeditions in Downieville has bike rentals, chain lube and trail beta for cyclists tackling the Downieville Downhill or Graeagle's Mills Peak. Ask about the Triple Down Day of Descent, a 40-mile, 12,000-vertical-feet tour de trails, or shuttle service, if you'd prefer not to pedal uphill. The Graeagle Store, a red, barn-like building that opened in 1918 to serve local lumber mill workers, has trail maps and snacks for hiking and biking, plus cold beer and homemade pies for afterward. Yuba Expeditions, 208 Main St., Downieville, 530-289-3010, www.yubaexpeditions.com. Graeagle Store, 7386 Highway 89, Graeagle, 530-836-2519, mvsc.membernetwork.org/mvsc/mem_GraeagleStore. Backyard brews After your day spent outside, head to The Brewing Lair, a dog- and kid-friendly BYOF (bring your own food) brewery on 15 acres of forested land just outside Graeagle. Opt for a tasting flight of five 4-ounce pours, like the Take a Hike IPA or Acclimation Sour Ale, then partake in the yard games: There’s a 9-hole disc golf course, slackline and cornhole. Show up on a Saturday or Sunday night and there just might be a band playing on the stage out back. 67007 CA Hwy 70, Blairsden, 530-394-0940, www.thebrewinglair.com. Bacon and shakes Thick slabs of homemade bread bookend the tasty sandwiches at Bread & Butter, a permanently parked food truck on the outskirts of town. Grab a BLT with avocado and post up at the picnic tables out front (there’s even a play area for the little ones), or opt for a burger and strawberry milkshake from Graeagle Mountain Frostee’s walk-up window. Bread & Butter, 21 Bonta St., Blairsden, 530-394-0303, www.eatatbreadandbutter.com. Graeagle Mountain Frostee, 28 Hwy 89, Graeagle, 530-836-4811. Will hike for views To reach the top of the old Sierra Buttes fire lookout, you’ll hike 2.5 miles one way, including a section on the Pacific Crest Trail, and ascend 1,800 vertical feet. That’s before you tackle the 178 stairs up to the tower at 8,587 feet. It’s worth it for the view: On a clear day, you can spot the volcanic peak of Mount Lassen to the north and Sardine Lakes below. Afterward, post up dockside at the waterfront bar at Sardine Lake Resort. alltrails.com. Sleep well Pitch a tent or park your van amongst the lodgepole and ponderosa pine forest at Plumas-Eureka State Park, five miles from Graeagle, where you’ll get a lesson in California mining history from the on-site museum housed in a former miner’s bunkhouse. Or go more upscale with a stay at Nakoma Resort (from $204), on the area’s acclaimed golf course with a clubhouse designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. Plumas-Eureka State Park, 310 Johnsville Rd., Blairsden, 530-836-2380, www.parks.ca.gov. Nakoma Resort, 348 Bear Run, Clio, 877-462-5662, nakomaresort.com. Detour: Sierra Hot Springs Thirty minutes away via Highway 89, you’ll find Sierra Hot Springs, in the quaint town of Sierraville. Stay for the night in the on-site lodge or drop in for the day to soak in the resort’s piping hot, outdoor mineral tubs. Tack on a body treatment like a charcoal mud wrap or a raw sugar scrub, if you’re into that sort of thing (and really, who isn’t?). 521 Campbell Hot Springs Rd., Sierraville, 530-994-3773, www.sierrahotsprings.org. — Megan Michelson

Kern County Kernville (population: 1,395) Tucked in a rocky valley at the bottom of the Sierra range is Kernville, an old gold mining town at least an hour from the nearest city. It’s the type of getaway that has inspired nostalgia among generations of families from across Southern California who return each year for one main reason: Kern River. Camping, hiking, swimming, whitewater rafting and fly-fishing are all within reach of town, which was established as Whiskey Flat during the Gold Rush era and straddles the river. Today, Kernville manages to maintain its Old West roots while operating primarily in service of summer tourists. Though small and relatively remote, the town has nurtured the qualities that make you want to come back again and again. The local astronomy club is leading the charge to cut down on light pollution and earn the town a dark-sky designation. Rafting outfitters loan free lifejackets to anyone going out on the river. Cell service is solid. The local brewery churns out top-notch ales. Visit once and you’ll wish you’d stuck around longer. Chill by the river Campsites in Sequoia National Forest typically fill up the moment they become available to book online — six months in advance — but you don’t have to risk carpal tunnel clicking and re-clicking on ReserveCalifornia.com to enjoy a campground during the day. Limestone Campground abuts the Kern at a beautiful bend featuring one of the river’s nicest point bars. The 20-foot-long beach is sandy and remote; directly across the water you’ll spot Alligator Rock, a massive chunk of geology that tapers into a distinctive snout with two bloodshot eyes painted near its crown. When the flows settle down, this is the perfect spot to kick back, set up a picnic, dip a toe and swim. Limestone Campground, Mountain Highway 99 about 15 miles north of downtown Kernville. Sip the local brew The only brewpub in town is a local institution. Live music, long dining tables, a wraparound porch and friendly atmosphere make Kern River Brewing Company the place to be on a Friday or Saturday evening. The menu offers standard pub fare, but the beers are exceptional. The Chuuurch West Coast IPA alone is worth a visit for any hop head. If you’re in a hurry, grab a six-pack or growler on the way back to your campsite. Make sure to ask about the paintings hanging behind the bar depicting an anachronistic cowboy character jaunting around like a man out of time. 13415 Sierra Way, Kernville, 760-376-2337, www.kernriverbrewing.com. Go on a whitewater adventure Getting on the river is a must, and rafting is a great way to soak in the landscape deep in Kern Valley. Several outfitters run guided whitewater trips throughout the summer along all three forks of the river, and there are trips for all experience levels. If you want a proper ride, check out the 22-mile overnight adventure from Kern River Outfitters. It takes paddlers over Class IV whitewater and Class V drops through spectacular canyons. 760-376-3370, kernrafting.com. Take a hike Natural beauty is a cornerstone of Kernville’s appeal, and the Whiskey Flat Trail gives hikers easy access to the landscape. (Also, dogs are allowed!) It’s a moderate 11.8 miles (out and back), but don’t let the distance discourage you. Two miles into the trail will get you past Bull Creek — a great place to cool off in summer — and high enough to glimpse panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. Note: Summer temperatures hit triple digits early in the day, so if you want to take on the whole trail, leave first thing in the morning. Burlando Road and Rio Del Loma, Kernville, www.alltrails.com. Stroll through downtown On the west side of the Kern River you’ll find the town’s historic business corridor, a cluster of Old West facades adjacent to Circle Park. Here is where you’ll find Kernville Saloon (local dive), the Cracked Egg Cafe (greasy spoon), Kern Valley Museum and the village’s collection of boutiques. Take a casual stroll around and admire the false-front architecture and laid-back vibe. Swing by Big Blue Bear for an ice cream cone, then head a couple blocks east to the Kern River Bridge and watch the rafters pass beneath you. Circle Park is on Kernville Road, just west of Kern River, Kernville. Detour: Isabella Lake Just south of town, the Kern River tails into Isabella Lake, a large reservoir rimmed by dry mountains. It’s not known for its beaches, but if you’re into swimming, trout fishing, paddling or boating, the lake offers a nice respite from the summer heat — especially in the early part of the season, when the Kern flows high, cold and dangerous. Drive the west side of the lake and look for any small dirt roads or turnoffs; any one may lead to a secluded spot to set up for the day. Tip: Bring a canopy or beach umbrella. There are no trees or shade along the edges of the lake. South of Kernville along Highway 155. — Gregory Thomas