THE king of steak, Vlado Gregurek, one of Melbourne's more modest and most highly regarded restaurateurs, died yesterday of cancer at the Epworth Hospital, aged 81.

Gregurek, who was born in Zagreb, went to Paris as a refugee before coming to Melbourne in 1959. He began his restaurant life in a small place in Smith Street, Collingwood, in 1962, with a loan from band leader Dennis Farrington.

He moved to Richmond two years later. Vlado's restaurant has been a fixture on Bridge Road since it opened in 1964.

The unassuming brick exterior hides a restaurant that served everyone: anyone who loved excellent meat was welcomed. Prime ministers, royalty, media magnates, film and sports stars, and countless others not in the public eye were all served the same food: sausages to start, a tasting plate to follow, then choice of steaks, and a cabbage salad, with strawberry pancakes to finish.

His meat was unparalleled. He sought the best producers always, recalls his long-time friend Hermann Schneider, whose renowned Two Faces restaurant opened in 1960. ''He was totally dedicated to what he was doing and he did it with absolute perfection,'' says Schneider. ''He had admirers from all over the world.''