Hi Jodi, I obviously don’t know exactly what is written on the card in English, but it is excellent and saved my skin the other night. The restaurant that we went to boils its edamame in the same water as its u don noodles. The poor waiter kept pointing at the card when I said I could have edamame until he managed to explain the way they cooked them.Needless to say I didn’t get much for dinner that night, but I wasn’t poisoned either.Indispensable. Thanks again.

Gluten Free Eating in Japan: Dishes and Snacks

Understanding the basickanji so you can read ingredients, knowing what is safe and unsafe, and being able to show a card that can help is far more important than an address where you might not be faced with a waiter or staff who can communicate. That said, at the end of the post is a list of gluten free restaurants in Japan that were provided thoughtfully by fellow celiac Sarah.

This kind of research is a good part of what mitigates my fear as a celiac when I travel. I did not do it ahead of this trip, and I regretted it.

For starters: is MSG gluten free?

In my research I did note that some blogs discuss MSG as being a derivation of wheat. There has been discussion on the web about MSG being unsafe for celiacs, but in the United States, the US Food and Drug association notes:

Does “glutamate” in a product mean it contains gluten? No—glutamate or glutamic acid have nothing to do with gluten. A person with celiac disease may react to the wheat that may be present in soy sauce, but not to the MSG in the product.

In addition, the Gluten Free Dietician confirms that while MSG used to be derived from wheat flour, it is no longer the case and has not been since the 1960s in North America. That said, sites have referred to Japanese and Chinese MSG as potentially still isolating the additive via wheat gluten.

However, the main producer of Japanese MSG, Ajinomoto, does not derive their MSG from wheat. From the blog Just Hungry:

Now specifically about Ajinomoto, the white granulated product that is synonymous with MSG: According to the official Japanese Ajinomoto company site, it is currently made by “fermenting the sugar extracted from sugar canes or corn, tapioca starch and other ingredients”.

Of course other companies might still do so in the Asian or Southeast Asian region. I should note that most of the MSG I saw being used in Vietnam and Japan was Ajinomoto. Having stuffed my face in Asia for the last many years, my inadvertent glutening has been related to soy sauce consumption or sauces with flour and not MSG.

I would love to hear other people’s experiences here.

Gluten free Izakaya options

We went to quite a few izakaya bars during my time in Japan. Izakaya are casual drink and food places, smokey from the grilled meat and loud with beer-filled patrons hungry and conversational. While almost all of the food at an izakaya will have wheat or soy, you canask for your meat or chicken skewers (yakitori) to be made with a salt (shio) cooking technique, instead of the sweet and savoury sauce which has soy in it (called tare). Choose salt and you will be ok, or at least I was! They consisted of yakitori that were brushed with salt and grilled, and were not pre-marinated.

Buckwheat as gluten free grain

In North America, it is quite difficult to find 100% buckwheat (soba) noodles. Despite the name, buckwheat does not contain any wheat, and also has no gluten. Buckwheat has been providing protein, zinc and potassium to humans for almost 8,000 years, first appearing in the Balkans in 4000BC.

Despite being more prevalent in Japan than North America, many dried and fresh versions of soba noodles in Japan are nonetheless mixed with wheat. I only found one noodle restaurant during my travels that made their noodles with 100% buckwheat, far more expensive than the usual soba fare.

Unfortunately I was not able to eat the noodles with soup broth because they had put soy sauce for flavouring, so they were kind enough to provide me with the water these same noodles were boiled in and also some freshly grated ginger.

Most soba stops will be making noodles with a mixture of wheat and buckwheat, so despite the technically gluten-free base ingredient, they should be avoided unless you’re sure they are all buckwheat.

Gluten Free Snacks in Japan: 7-11s and more

Regardless of where I was in Japan, there was a 7-11 or a Family Mart convenience store nearby. Full of fun ice cream treats and prepared food in crazy (to this Montrealer anyhow) flavors, these shops also contained something for the gluten-free eater. Often there are grocery stores attached to transportation hubs like bus and train stations. These stores are well-stocked and contain many of the snacks I list below.

Bubble tea : made with tapioca pearls and black tea and milk. I did not test out the different flavours as those are often made via powder, which could have a wheat derivative in it.

: made with tapioca pearls and black tea and milk. I did not test out the different flavours as those are often made via powder, which could have a wheat derivative in it. Edamame , though be warned some might be boiled in udon water.

, though be warned some might be boiled in udon water. Yakiimo , sweet potatoes that are baked. Avoid sauces! Salt just fine.

, sweet potatoes that are baked. Avoid sauces! Salt just fine. Onigiri , the adorable triangles of rice and seaweed served at train stops and convenience stores and grocery stores alike. Be warned: most of these are off limits . The pickled plum (ume) onigiri was fine, as was some of the salmon ( 鮭 sake) ones. Please consult the ingredients on each onigiri before eating, using the kanji below.

, the adorable triangles of rice and seaweed served at train stops and convenience stores and grocery stores alike. . The pickled plum (ume) onigiri was fine, as was some of the salmon ( sake) ones. Please consult the ingredients on each onigiri before eating, using the kanji below. Hard-boiled eggs : The eggs come in packages of one or two and are perfectly boiled and — somehow — presalted inside the shell. They were a lifesaver, and most importantly they did not smell. Yes, I was that awkward person eating hard boiled eggs in a park, but it was better than nothing at all.

: The eggs come in packages of one or two and are perfectly boiled and — somehow — presalted inside the shell. They were a lifesaver, and most importantly they did not smell. Yes, I was that awkward person eating hard boiled eggs in a park, but it was better than nothing at all. Soyjoy granola bars: not the most delicious, but most were gluten free. Check ingredients of course.

granola bars: not the most delicious, but most were gluten free. Check ingredients of course. Roasted chestnuts , right off the grill. Calorie-filled but wonderful.

, right off the grill. Calorie-filled but wonderful. Mochi (daifuku). Made from rice flour or arrowroot flour, they are delicious and dusted in rice flour coating and I was very happy that they existed. Note that these should be purchased from a vendor specializing in daifuku as the ones from the convenience stores may have a starch syrup that has gluten. (Look for the kanji!) My favourites were red bean and black sesame.

Sushi, Sashimi, and Sea creatures

Sashimi is usually just fine, as is sushi when the rice vinegar is not mixed with malt. Avoid eel (unagi) as it is marinated in a soy-blend. If getting a donburi bowl, like the tuna one below, show them your gluten free card so that you can make sure they don’t brush any soy sauce on the rice prior to placing the fish in the bowl.

Morning fish markets — Kanazawa and Tokyo have wondrous ones — are great places to eat fresh sashimi or sushi, as well as freshly shucked oysters. You can also grab a scallop, have it shucked in front of you, and then watch it get grilled on a tiny BBQ. Again, just show the card and make sure they do not put soy sauce as a condiment. They always had lemon juice instead.

Plenty of sea urchin too.

In Miyajima, you can also get grilled oysters on the side of the alleys, with lemon juice and soy sauce. Simply ask for no soy sauce and you’re set.

Matcha green tea

Matcha green tea is just fine for celiacs. And delicious.

Kanji for Foods with Gluten in Japan The list is long and the wheat plentiful, but it was very helpful to start memorizing what wheat and barley and rye looked like on ingredient lists in Japanese. Beware of mugi tea: it’s not gluten free While the name for barley was the cutest (mugi), it was also an ingredient far more prevalent in Japanese food than in Canada or the United States, especially in tea (mugicha). While the green tea above is quite bright, barley tea is a darker and earthy brown color. Stick to the green teas or the ones you can see are steeped leaves. Better the kanji you know (Thank you to reader Sachiko for the revised whole wheat and rye kanji below!) For starters, the most important kanji (the logographic Chinese characters that are used in modern Japanese writing) that you need to know are these two: wheat ( 小麦 komugi, or 小麦粉 komugiko)

komugi, or 小麦粉 komugiko) whole wheat (全粒小麦 zen-ryu komugi) As I noted above, barley is also quite prevalent in Japanese cuisine, both in miso soups and in tea: barley (麦mugi) or (大麦 oo-mugi) And, sadly, since soy sauce has wheat flour in it, that is to be avoided too: Soy sauce: 醤油, shoyu Though more rare than barley, still needs to be avoided: Rye: ライ麦raimugi Wheat gluten itself, a version of seitan: Seitan, faux meat, often used in vegetarian Buddhist cooking or in some of the tea ceremony foods: 麩 fu And malt: malt (麦芽) bakuga Memorize or print these out and scan for them on ingredient lists. That was me, the random girl who took forever in the 7-11 as I frantically scanned the onigiri for mentions of these forbidden ingredients. Sadly this also means no okonomiyaki, one of the things I had the hardest time letting go. Soy sauce in Japan: hard to avoid Japanese food would be so much more digestible for celiacs if soy sauce did not contain wheat flour. It was not always that way in Japan — see this incredibly thorough history of soy sauce and tamari from the Soy Info Center for more, if you are interested. But for our purposes the problem remains: soy sauce is used in otherwise gluten-free dishes, rendering them indigestible for those of us who cannot have gluten. I don’t expect a foreign place to cater to my whims or my digestive issues, so I say this only as someone who desperately wished I could partake in the incredible foods that the country had to offer. I felt like a kid in a candy store, except all the candy was made of plastic. Any dark sauces you see might be suspect as often this ingredient is what makes them take on that darker brown color. Included in this delicious (yet unavailable) list is ponzu, teriyaki, hoisin, and more. An option is to bring your own gluten-free soy sauce, available in small travel packets. I did not do this because I was travelling from afar but it is possible. Note that while in the West we use tamari as a thicker, pure soy sauce that has no wheat, not all tamari is gluten-free. In Japanese grocery stores, I did not see tamari that lacked the wheat kanji in its ingredients. As a result, I included tamari on the “cannot eat” list in the card below. While in the West we are much more amenable to making substitutions based on food restrictions, in many countries that is not the case. As I noted at the beginning of this post, it could be taken the wrong way in a country where people often train a decade or more to be working behind the sushi bar. A new gluten free travel group on Facebook I wanted to create a space for celiacs or those strictly avoiding gluten to chat on Facebook and ask questions. If that’s you, my group is here. There is also a great Japanese Gluten Free group on Facebook (I have no affiliation with it), highly recommended by fellow celiac readers. List of Gluten Free Restaurants in Japan This list is frequently updated from a combo of my own experiences there and fellow celiacs who have traveled to Japan. Gluten free Takayama Heianraku, 6-7-2 Tenman-chou (Kokubunji street)

Tel: +81-577-32-3078

Family run Chinese-style Japanese food. Very friendly staff, who made the effort to come and speak to me about my allergies, and explained what they were using in my food instead of soya sauce and other gluten ingredients. Had a delicious meal here. There’s an English menu, with a number of vegetarian and vegan options as well. As there’s only seating for 14 people here, it’s worth asking your hostel /hotel to ring and book a table for you. Myogaya, 5-15 Hanasato-cho, Takayama, Japan

Tel: +81-577-32-0426.

Open Wed-Fri, Sun 12-3pm, 5-7pm, Sat dinner by reservation. Vegan cafe, only open at times. It wasn’t open when we were in Takayama (Sun-Tues), but we read good reviews of food, and that they were able to cater for allergies including gluten. Gluten Free Nara Daifuku deli stall (Nara train station): In the Nara train station (The main one, on the Kansai Main line, not the stop on the Kinetsu Nara line), there is a supermarket under the station (sub-level), where I was able to pick up vegetable crisps, plain nigiri (just rice) and salad. Before you go down the escalator from the station to the supermarket, you walk through a concourse with lots of little deli-style food stalls. On your left, directly after you enter this area, and before the escalators, is a stall that sells fresh daifuku and mochi. I was able to talk to the owner, and she was able to guide me through which ones I was able to eat, having the ingredient card with her. The shop is open from 10am, and well worth a visit. It was probably the best daifuku I had during my stay in Japan. Izasa (Sushi restaurant), 16 Kasuganocho

Tel: +81 742-94-7133

Open 11am-7pm. Located in a sort of restaurant / shop / cafe complex, just outside of the deer park.

You access it through a shop, where there are stairs going up to the restaurant on the floor above. The staff here were very helpful and able to tell me which sushi platters I was able to have that would not contain gluten. I had a wonderful, filling meal, with a fantastic view (the windows look out over the deer park, where you can see the tops of the temples). I brought my own tamari sauce, and the staff brought a dish for me to pour it in to. Kamameshi Shizuka(Kouen-Ten), 59 Noborioji-cho (close to National Museum)

tel: +81-742-27-8030

Open 1130am – 730pm, The food is a traditional Japanese rice, cooked in an iron pot with meat and vegetables, allowed to slightly ‘burn’, so that it takes on a deeper, nuttier taste. It’s really good, and wonderful option if you’re looking for comfort food. It’s located close to the National Museum in Nara. I had to show my gluten-free Japanese card to the chef, but they were able to accommodate me, and I had a lovely meal. Nara Hotel also offers a gluten free breakfast upon request. Gluten Free Kamakura Reader Nicole raves about Gokuraku Curry, and was able to eat a Japanese curry (they usually have wheat in them) at this cute restaurant. Gluten Free Miyajima There are limited restaurants on Miyajima island, and most of them are only open during the day-time, when there is a high number of visitors on the island. I brought over snacks from the mainland to make myself a dinner at our ryokan, but I was able to go into one of the many restaurants at lunch time, and they were able to provide me with plain oysters, plain rice, and some plain grilled fish. Again, I showed my gluten free card, and explained to them I could not eat soya sauce. They did seem a little perplexed, but after going back and forth from the kitchens, they assured me they would be able to cook something for me to eat. Hotels: Sakuraya Ryokan on Miyajima island overnight, and they were able to provide me with a gluten free breakfast the following morning without any problems (a hard-boiled egg, yoghurt, salad and fruit). Yamaichi Bettkan, Minatomachi-1162-4 Miyajimacho, Hatsukaichi, Hiroshima Prefecture 739-0504, Japan Phone: +81 829-44-0700. Reader Anne stayed there and opted for the 1/2 board option, which included completely gluten free meal for her. She was able to eat sushi, sashimi, oysters, beef, desserts and breakfast without worry. Gluten Free Hiroshima Art Cafe ELK

1-7-23 Naka-hara bld (2F), Hiroshima

Tel: +81 50-5589-3973

Open 9.30am-10pm. Located on the 2nd floor of the building, this small cafe offers vegetarian and vegan food. As soon as I arrived and explained about my gluten allergy, the owners and staff were able to explain how they were going to adapt their menu for me, so that I had a couple of options. The menus are in English, and the food was very good. Shanti Vegan Cafe, Mondano Bldg 2-20, Mikawa-chō Naka Ward

Opening hours – 11.30am-9.30pm. In the same building as a yoga studio. Vegan and Vegetarian meals,

able to cater for gluten-free and other allergies as well. Gluten Free Kyoto Hotel Sakura Terrace The Gallery (Restaurant on ground floor)

〒601-8002 京都府京都市南区東九条上殿田町,

南区東九条上殿田町39番地 (Just a little south of Kyoto

station)

+81 75-692-1112

We actually stayed in this hotel, and didn’t eat here until one night when I was desperately hungry, after not finding anywhere in the centre of Kyoto to eat.. I’d come back to the hotel planning on redeeming my free drinks voucher, but they surprised me by making me fresh chips (fries), in new oil, with wonderful roasted vegetables alongside. They also had a delicious green tea creme brûlée for dessert. Daimaru (department store)

Japan, 〒604-8124

京都府京都市中京区高倉通り四条上ル帯屋町581

+81 75-231-0799

In the basement of most department stores, there’s a food court. In this Daimaru, there’s a whole foods store, which although doesn’t do a huge amount of gluten free food, I was able to purchase puffed rice cereal, and some gluten free biscuits. The gluten free food is located in the children’s section of the shop, as in Japan, it’s usually children who have allergies, which they then grow out of (?) The staff were able to speak English well enough of me not to speak Japanese, and they were able to tell me exactly what food I was able

to buy. Kerala (Indian food), Japan, 〒604-8006

京都府京都市中京区河原町三条上ル西側KUSﾋﾞﾙ２F

+81 75-251-0141

English menu. Really good food, Knew exactly what to do when I specified Gluten Free, and they were able to direct me as to what I could eat confidently. Yak and Yeti (Nepali food, Gokomachi-dōri, Nishikikōji-sagaru Kyoto, Japan)

Another option in lieu of Indian food, Nepali food in Kyoto. They will ensure no gluten in the sauce and meals are made to order so a clean pan can be requested. Vegetarian-friendly also. Hotel Anteroom Kyoto (restaurant), 7 Higashikujo Aketacho, Minami Ward

+81 75-681-5656

Know about GF, and able to cook GF meals

French company Breizh Cafe 14-1 Ishibashicho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8036, Japan +81 75-255-5501

This French cafe specializes in 100% gluten free galettes (crepes),and now has several locations in Japan, including Kyoto! For a break from rice and sashimi, you can’t go wrong with Brittany galettes. Confirm that you are choosing the one with 100% buckwheat.

Teuchi Toru Soba, Japan, 〒604-0831

京都府京都市中京区二条通東洞院東入ル松屋町35-1

(On the corner of Nijo Dori and Higashinotoin Dori)

+81 75-213-1512

Open 11.30am-3pm (Closed Tues & Weds). This is an absolutely tiny little Soba Noodle bar, with seats enough for 8 people. It tok us a while to find, as it’s in the backstreets between the Imperial Palace and central Kyoto, and not clearly labelled. Clearly popular with locals, we got a couple of funny looks when we entered! No english spoken, so I used my gluten-free Japanese card, and spoke – albeit very broken – Japanese with the owner, who was able to make me soba noodles, and did not add soya sauce to the

‘broth’ (made with the boiled water from the soba noodles), and was keen to try my tamari sauce himself when I produced the bottle from my bag. Noodles are made with 100% buckwheat flour.Macrobiotic Prunus, マクロビオティック.レストラン プラナス.

9-4, Kurumamichi-cho, Saga Tenryuji, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto, 616-8373

Tel: +81-75-8622265

Open: Tue-Wed 12:00pm-4:00pm, Fri-Sun 12:00pm-4:00pm. By reservation only (call at least 1 day ahead). Located in front of the Saga-Arashiyama station (by the bamboo groves). Gluten free menu available. Cash only.Little Heaven, 8-29 Saganohirakichou, Ukyo, Kyoto, 616-8313

Tel: +81-75-7772500

Not always open, so need to call at least 3 days ahead. Upscale vegan restaurant near the Katabiranotsuji station on the Arashiyama line. Offers a lunch set consisting of a main dish, salad, and soup for around 2000yen. Main dish choices from pizza, spaghetti, and veggie burger to rice bread gluten-free burger. Japan, 〒604-0831京都府京都市中京区二条通東洞院東入ル松屋町35-1(On the corner of Nijo Dori and Higashinotoin Dori)+81 75-213-1512Open 11.30am-3pm (Closed Tues & Weds). This is an absolutely tiny little Soba Noodle bar, with seats enough for 8 people. It tok us a while to find, as it’s in the backstreets between the Imperial Palace and central Kyoto, and not clearly labelled. Clearly popular with locals, we got a couple of funny looks when we entered! No english spoken, so I used my gluten-free Japanese card, and spoke – albeit very broken – Japanese with the owner, who was able to make me soba noodles, and did not add soya sauce to the‘broth’ (made with the boiled water from the soba noodles), and was keen to try my tamari sauce himself when I produced the bottle from my bag. Noodles are made with 100% buckwheat flour.マクロビオティック.レストラン プラナス.9-4, Kurumamichi-cho, Saga Tenryuji, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto, 616-8373Tel: +81-75-8622265Open: Tue-Wed 12:00pm-4:00pm, Fri-Sun 12:00pm-4:00pm. By reservation only (call at least 1 day ahead). Located in front of the Saga-Arashiyama station (by the bamboo groves). Gluten free menu available. Cash only.8-29 Saganohirakichou, Ukyo, Kyoto, 616-8313Tel: +81-75-7772500Not always open, so need to call at least 3 days ahead. Upscale vegan restaurant near the Katabiranotsuji station on the Arashiyama line. Offers a lunch set consisting of a main dish, salad, and soup for around 2000yen. Main dish choices from pizza, spaghetti, and veggie burger to rice bread gluten-free burger.

Choice Eat and Study Space Kyoto, 05-0009 Kyoto Prefecture, Kyoto, 東山区大橋町８９−. Vegan and gluten free options. Open 9am through 5pm or 8pm, depending on the day.

Gluten Free Hakone

For a place to stay, Onsen and Ryokan Kijite Hoeiso (227, Yumotochaya, Hakone-Machi, Ashigarashimo-Gun, Kanagawa, 250-0312) will ensure that your traditional meals are gluten free, with no soy or other wheat/gluten in them. Strictly celiac readers have stayed here with success.

Gluten Free Osaka

Kiyomura Sushizanmai (Sushi restaurant), 1F, Nakaza Cui-daore Bldg., 1-7-21 Dotonbori, Chuo-ku. Open 24 hours a day, for any sushi craving you might have. Their miso and rice are gluten free; you can bring your own GF soy sauce or tamari to use with the meal. Several celiacs reported success here.

Grom (gelato), an Italian gelato company that makes 100% gluten free cones without any vegetable oils. They’re taking over Europe, and just opened an Osaka branch as well. If you need a break from mochi treats, this is your best option — great refreshing flavors, 100% gluten free.

Gluten Free Tokyo

Komehiro (Bakery), 2-3-18 Sakai, Musashino-shi, Tokyo Zip 180-0022

Opening hours: 10:00 to 20:00, Closed: Monday. Gluten free bakery, just a couple of stops north on the train from the Studio Ghibli Museum, just outside of Tokyo. About 7 min walk north from the Musashi-Sakai station on the Chuo Main Line. Offers bread with gluten free rice flour, and GF doughnuts and cakes. The owner himself suffers from gluten intolerance, which is why he started the bakery. Very friendly, and a nice range of GF baked goods.

Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum now has gluten free ramen! 222-0033 Kanagawa Prefecture, Yokohama, Kohoku Ward, Shinyokohama, ２−１４−２１, open 11am-10:30pm. Last call for food is at 9:30pm.

Little Bird Café (3F, 1-1-20 Uehara, Shibuya, Tokyo 1510064), beloved by many a celiac visiting Japan! The broad menu includes western food like pizza and hamburgers, but also ramen, pasta, dumplings, and Japanese favourites like tempura. It’s 100% gluten free. GO FORTH AND EAT!