USATODAY

Hyundai likes to say the 2015 Tucson SUV fuel-cell electric vehicle is mass-produced.

But before your alternative-fuel heart skips a beat, "mass-produced" in this case means that the fuel-cell models are built at the same Ulsan, South Korea, factory as the gasoline models.

That means the relatively small number of fuel-cell models piggyback onto the low-cost, high-output production of the gasoline model. And it means, however, that the fuel-cell variant could be built in mass quantities if there were enough demand.

More demand in the U.S. that would require more than the current handful of hydrogen fuel stations, nearly all clustered in the Los Angeles area.

The Department of Energy's list of public hydrogen stations shows, in addition to those in California, only two others — one in Connecticut and one in South Carolina. That's a long way from the infrastructure needed for mass use of fuel-cell cars.

Hyundai is not the only automaker fielding a real fuel-cell vehicle available to actual customers, albeit in tiny numbers, nor in facing the challenge of a slow-developing fuel infrastructure. Honda has a new version of its FCX Clarity fuel-cell sedan coming in 2015, and Toyota promises its FCV — Fuel Cell Vehicle, of course — early in 2015.

To clear up lingering confusion, fuel-cell vehicles are electric vehicles. The electricity to run the motor is created by mixing hydrogen from the fuel tank with oxygen from the air in the so-called fuel-cell "stack." The exhaust is water vapor, no pollutants.

Tucson fuel cell is the best example yet in a small universe. That's based on drives over the years in a variety of hydrogen-fuel vehicles.

What we mainly like about the Tucson fuel cell is that it looks, feels and drives very much like a conventional Tucson. In fact, it's probably quieter and smoother.

The only visual differences are a couple of badges and a rear cargo floor about an inch above normal, to clear the hydrogen fuel tank beneath. The fuel-cell stack, normally cumbersome, is compact and mounted in the engine bay atop the electric motor.

Californian Timothy Bush, the gent who got the first one in June from Tustin (Calif.) Hyundai dealer John Patterson, remarked that one of his favorite things is that "its day-to-day utility is virtually identical to the gasoline version. ... I can easily fit all our family's things in the back."

Power is sufficient, if not exciting in the fuel-cell model, which weighs 4,101 lbs. That's 662 lbs. heavier than the heaviest gasoline model, which has less torque but more horsepower.

The sensation of acceleration is muted because the single-speed transmission gives none of the busyness of acceleration you get when a conventional automatic grabs a lower gear and the engine revs fast.

Tucson has an EPA combined rating of 50 miles per gallon-equivalent and a rated range of 265 miles after a 10-minute fill-up. Contrast that with plug-in battery electrics, which typically range from 50 to 100 miles after a multi-hour charge.

Tesla's $81,070 S sedan (before tax credits) is rated 265 miles on a charge. That requires a 9.1 hours with the 240-volt, 40-amp hookup found in some homes, according to Tesla's website.

Other parts of the driving apparatus, mainly brakes and steering, worked fine. Nothing spotlighted them as compromised because of the fuel-cell power or the extra weight. The weight did give a slightly ponderous feel in corners, but again, nothing to ruinously taint the Tucson fuel cell.

The Tucson fuel cell is available only via lease: $2,999 down, $499 a month for 36 months. There are worthwhile perquisites: unlimited free hydrogen fuel and Hyundai's "at your service" valet maintenance. The dealer picks up your Tucson, leaves a loaner and returns the Tucson after service or repairs.

Hydrogen's not common enough as a passenger-car fuel to know what a retail price would be. One educated guess within the industry says it'd be twice the price of gasoline, and give two to three times the mileage.

Feel free to scoff at the quixotic nature of the hydrogen quest, but keep in mind that a very short time ago, self-driving cars seemed like a pipe dream.

Our view: Fuel-cell cars are electrics done right. If the fuel become common, the cars will, too.

WHAT STANDS OUT

Normalcy: Looks, works like a regular Tucson

Noise: Not much

Unavailability: Move to certain areas of Southern California where hydrogen fuel is sold, or forget about it.

ABOUT THE 2015 HYUNDAI FUEL-CELL TUCSON

What? Hydrogen fuel-cell version of Tucson small crossover SUV; front-drive, four-door, five passenger.

When? First lease in June.

Where? Built in Ulsan, South Korea, available only Southern California where hydrogen fuel is available.

How much? Lease only: $2,999 down, $499 per month for 36 months with unlimited free hydrogen fuel.

What makes it go? Electric motor rated 134 horsepower at 5,000 rpm, 221 pounds-feet of torque at 1,000 rpm. Electricity generated from electrochemical reaction. Water vapor is only exhaust.

How big? 6 inches shorter than, otherwise similar to, Honda CR-V. Weighs 4,101 pounds.

Cargo space: 23.8 cubic feet behind second row, 53.8 cu. ft. when second row is folded flat. Both about 2 cu. ft. less than gasoline model due to higher cargo floor.

How thirsty? Rated 49 mpg-equivalent in the city, 51 mpg-e highway, 50 mpg-e combined. Driving range rated 265 miles. Tank under cargo floor holds 12.4 lbs./38 gallons of hydrogen.

Overall: Smooth, quiet. Ordinary to see, use, drive. Adequately powerful.