Gudauri has around 20 miles of groomed runs with good vertical drops (up to 1,800 feet) and mostly fast, modern lifts. Those open at 10 a.m., and most people seem not to show up until a few hours after that. I was able to ski mostly by myself for the first two hours of the day — the snow well-groomed and just the right amount of soft, the wind light, the weather perfect. I never waited more than 30 seconds for a lift the entire day, even when it began to get crowded after lunch. I ended up spending quite a while at Megobari, the restaurant at the top of the gondola serving snacks like kebab and borscht, and the usual range of drinks but with some surprises too — including a tasty tea with honey, lime, ginger, and a few mystery herbs. There were a few dozen tables and chairs (including some of the beanbag variety) scattered on the snow outside, and an enjoyably obscure musical playlist ranging from klezmer music to “What does the fox say?” It was below freezing, but lovely in the sun.

At the top of the mountain my phone announced calling and messaging rates in Russia, a reminder of how close the border is. Unsurprisingly, there are a lot of Russians in Gudauri. But others come here too, and in growing numbers. We ran into an Austrian heli-skiing group and a large group of Chinese visitors. One British-Australian family living in Dubai that I shared a lift with said they’d come a few years in a row, citing the easy three-hour flight as one reason.

For those looking to go off-piste and have a bit of solitude without traveling several hours west to more obscure mountains, Gudauri is the place to be. If one of several heli-ski operators doesn’t appeal, there are other ways to explore the backcountry. At the top of the main gondola a fleet of snowmobiles waits to take skiers up to ungroomed territory — and the gravity-defying ride is arguably even more exciting than getting back down. It’s also possible to ski down the back of the mountain and end up a ways down the road to the north, a short taxi ride back to the lifts. Guides are available to help navigate — recommended considering the avalanche risk.