From the outside, Japanese food can seem rigid, but it is a story of continual innovation. Ramen, for example, is an adaptation of wheat noodles introduced to Japan by Chinese immigrants as recently as the early 20th century. And although there is only one name to describe this soupy noodle dish, there are as many variations of it as there are cooks in Japan. My ramen evolved from an unlikely place, taking inspiration from a French onion soup I ate in Paris. In my recipe, sticky onions combine with miso, stock and sake to make a special-tasting soup.

Caramelised onion ramen

Cooking sake is more reasonably priced than drinking sake, and is sold in big supermarkets or online. If you can’t find it, you could use Chinese rice wine or dry sherry instead.

Prep 15 min

Cook 50 min

Serves 4

4 tbsp rapeseed oil, plus a little extra to coat the noodles

3 large white onions, peeled and finely sliced

3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced

½ tsp salt

1 red chilli, finely sliced

1½ litres vegetable stock

2 tbsp cooking sake

1½ tbsp light soy sauce

1 tbsp brown miso

Salt and black pepper

200g ramen noodles (suitable for vegans)

200g choi sum, cut into 6cm pieces

Chilli oil, to serve – I like the Lee Kum Kee brand, which is available in big supermarkets, Asian food stores or online (optional)

In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, warm the oil over a medium heat. Add the onions, garlic and salt to the pan, stir to coat in the oil, then cook for 10 minutes, until the onions become slick and translucent. Reduce the heat to low and continue to cook for 30 minutes, stirring every five minutes. The onions will gradually start to caramelise and colour, eventually breaking down into a soft, sweet, caramel-coloured paste.

Add the chilli and stock to the pan, bring to a boil, then turn the heat down to a simmer and add the sake, soy and miso, stirring well to combine. Taste, adjust the seasoning, then turn off the heat.

Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions, then drain, refresh under cold water and stir in a little oil to keep them from sticking together.

Cook the greens just before serving. Bring the broth up to a boil, drop in the choi sum and cook for a minute or two, until just tender.

Divide the noodles between four bowls and ladle the broth over the top, making sure to share out the greens evenly. Drizzle over the chilli oil, if using, and serve.