From those marks I use the ruler and mark 1/16" on either side leaving a 1/8" wide pin. I use my marker to transfer the lines down the face. I then knife the pencil lines along the top.

I choose not to knife the the lines down the face. That's because it's critical I am straight across, but not critical that I follow the exact angle. whatever angle these end up as will be transferred to the pin board. My goal is to have the joint fit "off the saw". I don't like to chisel to knife lines after sawing.