This week I tried something new; watching an exhibition on the big screen. The exhibition in question was ‘Goya: The Portraits’, which is currently running at the National Gallery to much applause and acclaim. This exhibition has been carefully adapted for the big screen as ‘Goya: Visions of Blood and Flesh’, showing in cinemas across the country.

Seeing all of these famous portraits brought together for such a special event is a strange experience – it’s like having front row tickets to a red carpet event. Only instead of Kate Upton and Ryan Gosling, you’re scrutinizing a ‘who’s who’ of 18th Century Spain. This begs the obvious question: who was the best dressed? And when it comes to traditional mantillas; who wore it better?

Nobody wanted it, nobody asked for it; It’s time to take a peek at the very best dressed of Goya’s portraits.

Joaquina Téllez-Girón y Pimentel, marquesa de Santa Cruz [1805]

We’re starting with one of the later portraits in the exhibition but boy, oh boy – it’s a good ‘un. Here we have the lovely Joaquina modelling the very latest in daring French fashion. Why is she wearing such a modern and slightly risqué style of dress? when she appears to be imitating an ancient Greek muse? Well, probably for the same reason that if I’m going to a toga party, I’m going to find a way to incorporate historically inaccurate cleavage and an eye-watering hemline. Unless you’re big into historical re-enactment - fancy dress always is, and always has been, an excuse to let people know you’re fresh to death.

This particular style of dress became popular in the early 19th Century and some of the more daring (read: awesome) women of the day were known to wet the muslin fabric to make it cling to their bodies and show off more of their figure. What I’m saying here is; for just a few delightful years – Europe almost became one big wet t-shirt contest. And you thought your holiday in Magaluf was wild.



Manuel Osorio Manrique de Zúñiga [1787/ 1788]

American designer Bill Blass once said “when in doubt wear red”. Somehow, way back in 1787 little Manuel Osorio heard his message loud and clear. I love everything about this look, but the combination of red and silver is giving me some serious ideas for festive Christmas party looks.

As a side-note, if there are any budding indie make-up brands out there: try making a lipstick in “Manuel Red” – I guarantee it would sell out faster than Kylie Jenner’s Lip Kit (30 seconds!). I guarantee this because I would personally buy all of them.

The Duchess of Osuna [1785]

One word: Rococo. Rococo is everything I want from this period of fashion, and honestly – it’s everything I want from life in general. The Rococo style is best known as “that crazy stuff Marie Antoinette wore”, but it can also be summarized by the following conversation that I just made up:

Duchess of Osuna’s Tailor: Is it humanly possible to fit more fancy, delicate lace onto this dress?

Servant: Yes.

Tailor: What about more satin and bows?

Servant: I guess so …

Tailor: Then pass me the scissors, for I’ve got God’s own work to do!

I’ve definitely seen more ornate and over-the-top looks executed in this style, but the Duchess of Osuna’s take on Rococo fashion just works. It’s a courageous lady who attempts to pair three-quarter length sleeves with white elbow gloves, but this portrait is living proof that it can be done. Maybe we could all stand to be a bit more daring with our ensembles.

The battle of the Mantillas: The Duchess of Alba [1797] VS. Queen Maria of Parma [1799]

It’s the showdown of the century, and you didn’t even know you cared until now. In 1797, Goya finished work on this painting of the Duchess of Alba (left). She’s pictured in traditional Spanish dress, complete with Mantilla – a black lace veil often associated with Spanish Catholicism. A few years later, the Queen of Spain requested that her portrait be painted in a similar style of dress, Mantilla and all.

People have suggested that the Queen admired Alba’s portrait and wanted to imitate it herself. So, did she pull it off? Who wore it better?

Alba, obviously! Why are we even having this conversation? I think what makes the Duchess of Alba’s look so successful is her overall attitude. She’s so fierce and seems to exude an almost inhuman amount of confidence. Oh, and that striking red sash pulling in her waist to show off her impressive physique? Art Historians suggest that it’s an old military sash belonging to her Grandfather. So while I’m patting myself on the back for customizing a denim jacket with some studs, this woman’s customizing her look using family heirlooms!

The Duchess of Alba’s portrait also goes to show that whatever period of history you’re living in: the greatest accessory a girl can rock is a fantastic set of eyebrows.

From now on, when people say “Alba is a fashion icon” I won’t be thinking of Jessica.

Words: Anna Turner