Talofa!

In March, we had the once-in-a-lifetime experience of visiting the island of Tutuila, which is the largest island in the U.S. territory of American Samoa. Our main reason for visiting was to check out the National Park of American Samoa, but the whole experience in the country of American Samoa was moving and worth writing about.

Arrival

We flew into Pago Pago, the capital of American Samoa, and its largest city (population ~11,500, whereas the total population of American Samoa is ~55,500). We arrived late in the evening, near midnight (UTC-11, so the latest time before crossing the international date line).

American Samoa on the globe (Polynesia centered) – From Wikipedia Samoa Islands – From Wikipedia

We remained on the island of Tutuila for the duration of our visit, which was three full days and three nights. We would have loved to visit the islands of Ofu and Ta’u, or even the Rose Atoll, but flight or boat transportation to these islands is limited, so we would have had to be in the country for about two weeks to see those things.

Rather unfortunately, Jeff got violently ill upon arrival in American Samoa, due to food poisoning from something he ate in Honolulu. Sparing any more details, Jeff spent the better part of our first day in the bed and the toilet. However, we were grateful to be staying at the Tradewinds Hotel, which offered the sick American the creature comforts he would be used to when sick in the United States, including Pepto Bismol, Coca Cola, air conditioning, and six channels of television.

After a morning of watching the American Samoa History Channel (which turned out to be a great introduction to the culture), Jeff felt well enough to go on a drive around the island. We had rented a car at the Pago Pago International Airport, which afforded us the luxury of checking out the entire island from end to end.

Pago Pago International Airport Selfie Rental Car American Samoa License Plate Tradewinds Hotel at Night

The next day, we checked out the National Park. On our last day, we did some more exploring, including our attempt to snorkel at the Fagatele Bay National Marine Sanctuary, and successful snorkeling at Fatu (Flower Pot Rock). Details about the island, some things that surprised us, and the National Park are below.

Things that Surprised Us

From the minute we boarded the plane from HNL –> PPG, until the moment we departed back to the States, we were surprised by the many cultural, lifestyle, and environmental differences of American Samoa and its people. For example:

We were some of the only tourists on the flight – It’s always somewhat intimidating to stand out in a crowd of people, and that’s exactly how we felt when boarding Hawaiian Airlines Flight 465 to Pago Pago International Airport. It was clear that we were tourists, and most people were not. However, the American Samoan people are extremely friendly and hospitable, so being a tourist quickly proved to be no problem.

It’s always somewhat intimidating to stand out in a crowd of people, and that’s exactly how we felt when boarding Hawaiian Airlines Flight 465 to Pago Pago International Airport. It was clear that we were tourists, and most people were not. However, the American Samoan people are extremely friendly and hospitable, so being a tourist quickly proved to be no problem. Many people on our flight were shipping goods from Honolulu – As we were waiting for our luggage at the small baggage claim in Pago Pago, we quickly noticed the plethora of produce-filled coolers, television and computer boxes, furniture, and large bins filled with anything you could imagine, all being shipped from Honolulu. It turns out (and it makes sense) that it’s extremely expensive to ship things from the U.S. to American Samoa. So, it seems, occasionally, American Samoans fly to Honolulu to buy things they can’t get on the island of Tutuila or have shipped for a reasonable price. On a related note, we also noticed shipping containers full of cars on the docks of Pago Pago harbor.

Getting around the island was an adventure in itself – Many of the roads on Tutuila are unmarked. When we asked for directions, people said the island is so small, you don’t need a map. (Yeah right!) Luckily, we did find a map at our hotel, which saved us on numerous occasions. Obviously, we didn’t have cell service and couldn’t rely on Google Maps this time…

Many of the roads on Tutuila are unmarked. When we asked for directions, people said the island is so small, you don’t need a map. (Yeah right!) Luckily, we did find a map at our hotel, which saved us on numerous occasions. Obviously, we didn’t have cell service and couldn’t rely on Google Maps this time… Every village you enter has a unique, often elaborate, welcome sign – It’s clear that each village in American Samoa has its own unique identity and that village residents are proud of where they live.

Welcome to Leone Sign Tree from Welcome to Leone Sign

“Keep American Samoa Beautiful” – It was shocking to us that one of the most beautiful places on the planet could be covered in trash, but American Samoa has a real littering problem.

Stop Littering Sign Sign by Fatu Rock

Burning trash – There are commercials on the radio that remind people to not burn their trash. Driving through the island, we saw a number of smoke stacks coming from far-away villages, most likely from people who were doing exactly what they were encouraged not to do.

Other interesting signs –

Found this “happy” family in front of a “perfect” house very out of place, and the typo strange.

Stray dogs – There were stray dogs everywhere in American Samoa. Many of them looked very sick and hungry. Several were extremely agressive. Driving down small roads was made very difficult by the presence of these dogs, as they sometimes jumped in front of our car, causing us to brake and panic. Luckly, we didn’t hurt each other, but we did see more than one dead dog that had been hit.

Stray Dog Stray Dogs Stray Dog

Everything was closed on Sundays, including the beach – The people of American Samoa are very religious (see “Churches Everywhere” below). For this reason, almost everything was closed on the “day of rest,” save a few grocery stores. Even the beaches prohibit any Sunday activity. In fact, most of Tutuila was a ghost town on Sunday, except for the few people we saw walking to or from church, Bible in hand.

Churches Everywhere – One of the most interesting and defining aspects of American Samoa is its churches. They are everywhere! Many homes may appear unkempt or dilapidated, but the churches were almost always beautiful, elaborate, and well-kept. Clearly, this is where the people of American Samoa put their money and their pride.

Stained Glass Church Advent Cross White and Yellow Church Yellow Church Finagalo Paia o Fesu Elaborate Church Tina Ole Losalio – Our Lady of the Rosary Lion of Judah White Church

Fale – According to Wikipedia, “Fale is the Samoan word for all types of houses, from small to large.” However, we mostly used this term to describe the cultural spaces, which primarily consist of a roof and a floor, with a series of wooden posts to support the roof.

Beautiful Fale Maota-I-Tupapa Turtle & Shark Fale

Curfews – Several villages in American Samoa have imposed curfews upon the residents. One evening, we were driving through a village, wondering where everyone had gone, as we had seen tons of people out and about in the same village not too long before. It turns out that all of the residents had gone home for the evening due to a curfew, and we really should not have entered the village during this time.

Several villages in American Samoa have imposed curfews upon the residents. One evening, we were driving through a village, wondering where everyone had gone, as we had seen tons of people out and about in the same village not too long before. It turns out that all of the residents had gone home for the evening due to a curfew, and we really should not have entered the village during this time. The StarKist Tuna Canning Factory – American Samoa’s largest industry is tuna fishing and canning, and a large portion of StarKist tuna is canned on the island of Tutuila. Driving by the factory smelled horrendous, like smog and dead fish. The working conditions didn’t look much better.

Traditional clothing – We were surprised to see so many people in traditional Samoan clothing. It looks like very few American Samoans have adopted “western” styles.

American influence – Even though the clothing might not always reflect it, American culture has had a huge inpact on American Samoan lifestyle. For example, we saw a nike store, “Bestbuy,” ACE hardware, and of course, the “American Embassy.”

Woman with iPad Nu’uuli Place Cinemas – Two Movies Playing The American Embassy Bestbuy Shoe Tree (Nike) and Stray Dogs NFL SEIs Leone Branch Post Office

Above ground (pillbox) burial sites – It was surprising to us that most cemeteries and burial sites were above ground, New Orleans style. In addition, many homes had the “pillbox” burial sites right next to their front door.

The Tradewinds Hotel and the Equator Restaurant – Unknowingly, our hotel housed the “nicest” restaurant in American Samoa. We were eating nachos and were surprised to hear the people at the table next to us signing what we can only assume was the American Samoan version of “Happy Birthday.” Even more surprisingly, they brought us over a huge slice of cake. Every table in the restaurant got one. The birthday girl was turning 80, but she didn’t look a day over 60. It felt like these people knew more about happiness, generosity, longevity, and love than many people in the United States.

Unknowingly, our hotel housed the “nicest” restaurant in American Samoa. We were eating nachos and were surprised to hear the people at the table next to us signing what we can only assume was the American Samoan version of “Happy Birthday.” Even more surprisingly, they brought us over a huge slice of cake. Every table in the restaurant got one. The birthday girl was turning 80, but she didn’t look a day over 60. It felt like these people knew more about happiness, generosity, longevity, and love than many people in the United States. The Market – While we were wandering around the local market, we came across a women selling fruit. Probably noticing our skin color and that we were tourists, she asked us “What are you doing here? Why would you come here?” We responded that we were visiting the National Park of American Samoa, and she mentioned that made some sense, and that the National Park was doing good for the country. She also mentioned that she doesn’t understand why they don’t get more money from the U.S. government, that the children don’t get lunch at school, and that so many Americans are so wealthy with good schools and hospitals, while American Samoans have nothing. This was the first encounter we had where so much frustration came though.

Bananas at the Market Bananas and Coconuts at the Market

The National Park

The National Park of American Samoa is one of the newest U.S. National Parks and the only branch of the National Park Service in the Southern Hemisphere. The park was established on October 31, 1988. Unfortunately, it was not until 1993 that the NPS could obtain a 50-year lease on the park land from the Samoan villages. The park exists to protect the beautiful tropical rainforests and reefs, fruit bats, and the local culture.

Explore the Islands of Sacred Earth 2016 National Park Service Centennial Pola Island Sign National Park of American Samoa Sign Paka Fa’asao o Amerika Samoa

Visitor Center – The National Park of American Samoa Visitor Center is unlike any other National Park Visitor Center we have ever seen. This is because the 2009 Tsunami that hit Tutuila completely destroyed the visitor center, so it was relocated to a temporary location.

N and J outside the Visitor Center National Park Visitor Center Sign National Park of American Samoa Visitor Center Paka O Amerika Samoa Laufanua Fa’asaoina Cat Under the U.S. National Park Service Van

Adventures of the traveling park shirts – While at the vistor center, we got to meet an awesome Park Ranger, who did all of the social media for the National Park of American Samoa. He created a fun tradition called the #AdventuresOfTheTravelingParkShirt, where instagrammers can post pictures of themselves at various other National Parks, while wearing their bright green National Park of American Samoa shirts. For example, here’s a photo of us at Pinnacles NP while sporting our awesome green shirts:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BJ9nnnch_hq/

Bats/Flying Foxes (pe’a) – One of the missions of the National Park of American Samoa is to preserve the flying foxes’ habitat. It wasn’t until we found out that American Samoa is home to these bats that we realized we had already seen them flying overhead. They truly are everywhere, and at night, they cover the sky. While we were at the visitor center, we got the tip to look for this tree, that had tens of them sleeping.

Lower Sauma Ridge Trail – One of our favorite things we did on the island was hike the lower sauma ridge trail. It was all downhill through rainforest until we got to a stunning lava rock with an ocean view. We were tempted to swim in the tide pools, but the tide was too high and it looked pretty dangerous, so we just enjoyed the view and the sun and salty air on our faces.

Lower Sauma Trail Description Lower Sauma Hermit Crab Bottom of Lower Sauma Ridge Hike Steps at Lower Sauma Trail

Fagatale Bay Trail – We were really excited to see there was a National Marine Sanctuary just to the west of our hotel. We checked out our trusty Day Hikes Park Brochure for directions, and were surprised to find the interesting description seen in the photo below. With our snorkel gear in tow and our fingers crossed, we drove over to the gate. Upon arrival, we were greeted by a pack of barking dogs. We hoped their barking would cause someone to come out of the house, but no luck. Sadly, we turned around, but it was humbling to be reminded that the NPS is leasing this land, and it belongs to the American Samoan people.

American Samoa Park Brochure, Day Hikes Fagatele Bay National Marine Sanctuary Entrance Gate (Closed)

Other Cool Things to Mention

Exploring the island of Tutuila was incredible. Here are some additional pictures from our adventures around the island.

Flower Pot (Fatu) rock – This cool feature adorns the Amercian Samoa license plates for a reason!

Flower Pot Rock (Fatu) Snorkeling at Flower Pot Rock

Turtle & Shark – This is an interesting site (on the National Register of Historic Places) that is the home of an ancient Samoan legend.

As written by the missionary George Turner in 1884: “A story is told of a woman and her child, who in a time of great scarcity were neglected by the family. One day they cooked some wild yams, but never offered her a share. She was vexed, asked the child to follow her, and when they reached a precipice on the rocky coast, seized the child and jumped over. It is said they were changed into turtles [or a turtle and shark], and afterwards came in that form at the call of the people of the village.”

Turtle & Shark Sign Turtle & Shark Turtle & Shark Memorial

Buses – The buses on Tutuila were very interesting. Each had a different color and often a religious message and/or the name of a village.

God is my Provider Bus Local Bus – Mikilani C.B.T. Hardware and Island Bus

Closing Thoughts

Our visit to American Samoa was truly extraordinary. We had a great time, saw amazing things, met interesting people, and learned a ton. It was a wonderful adventure and we are so grateful that our quest to visit National Parks brought us to this special corner of the globe.

Flowers Rainbow Laundroma Leone Healing Garden – February 25, 2012 – Gone But Never Forgotten Wild Chickens Banana Tree Light of Life / Busch Ice / Convenience Store Beautiful Leone Flower Boats Overturned by the Tsunami