Vet fees for cats

So, you’ve now got the basic equipment ready: litter box, food, cat toys, cat scratching post and basket. But what happens when your kitten gets sick? Even the healthiest of cats, who are neither injured nor diseased, should undergo basic immunisation with a vaccination once a year. The cat will be given a general check-up at the same time. External findings of a check-up are just as important as temperature measurements and eye, mouth, heart and lung examinations. If no major interventions or operations are required, the costs should be completely manageable. It also depends on whether it is a house cat or outdoor cat.

But how high are the actual costs? Unfortunately, there is no general answer to this question: In principle, veterinarians’ regulations do not stipulate standard fees; only the fees for individual treatment steps is specified because the additional costs for medications and consumables can vary widely according to the outcome.



Vaccinating cats: necessary vaccines

In the kitten’s first week of life, it should receive basic vaccinations. After the 8th week, they should be vaccinated against panleukopenia and cat flu. This basic immunisation is normally topped up after four weeks, and then again after a year. If you are getting your kitten from a breeder, it will generally have already received the basic vaccines. Outdoor cats should be vaccinated against rabies after the age of 12 weeks. Other vaccines are also available and can be often provided as single or combined vaccines – just a few pricks and the cat will be protected against a variety of diseases. All vaccines are recorded on your cat’s vaccine certificate: vaccine name, date, and the stamp and signature of the vet. Below are the most common vaccine abbreviations:

RC (cat flu)

P (parvovirus, panleukopenia)

RV (rabies)

FeLV (feline leukaemia virus) The German Association of Practising Veterinary Surgeons recommends the following vaccination schedule: At 8 weeks: RCP At 12 weeks: RCP + RV + FeLV At 16 weeks: RCP + RV + FeLV At 15 months: RCP +RV + FeLV, then in alternation RCP+RV and the following year RCP+RV+FeLV

It is very important because this vaccine certificate is also your cat’s EU pet identity card and passport. You need to present it as proof that your cat has been vaccinated; otherwise you may experience difficulties trying to enter certain countries. Many pet hotels require that you present the vaccine certificate: they need it to prevent furry guests from making each other ill.



Top tip: If you get your cat chipped, the chip number will also be entered on the vaccine certificate. Information on chips can be found below:

Deworming is a must

Any cat can become infested with worms – even a sheltered house cat with no outdoor access! Worms, tapeworms, hookworms and roundworms live inside the cat and feed off its blood.

For kittens in particular, a worm infestation can have serious health consequences, from the immune system to the entire body. The digestive tract in particular can be so seriously damaged that the kitten will be unable to fully recover. Some worms can be passed on to humans and trigger diseases and infections, making regular deworming an absolute must for every cat owner. Regular deworming: 1-2 times per year for house cats and once a month for outdoor cat.



T op priority: hygiene of the litter box



Cleaning of cat’s sleeping and resting areas

Tip: It is best to clean litter boxes with gloves Always wash your hands thoroughly after cleaning Remove faeces from the litter box as promptly as possible and dispose of the faeces on a daily basis

When should I deworm?

Kittens can be infected with worms by their mother, so deworming at an early stage – preferably at 3 weeks – should be a top priority. It is also advisable to treat cats for worms if they become infested with fleas, as fleas can also transmit worms. Deworming treatments for cats are available in various forms of administration at the vet: as spot-on, tablet or paste. The dose is tailored to the weight and age of the cat. Tapeworm treatments are available over the counter; special coconut oil which can be mixed into the food is also available without a prescription for prevention. In the event of an acute infection, however, you should definitely visit your vet: they will take a faeces sample and give you the right deworming treatment.

By the way: as always in life, there are also divergent views on “deworming”. Some absolutely refuse deworming treatments – it is better to regularly check faeces samples and, where necessary, use natural, alternative treatments. Others swear by deworming! If you are unsure, seek the advice of the vet that you trust: they normally know your kitten best from the very beginning!

Get them used to the cat carrier at an early stage

It is best to start getting your kitten used to the cat carrier so it will be less stressful for you both when you need it. Ensure that the box is practical and easy to clean: it should have several openings that are big enough to allow plenty of space for an adult cat later on. Carriers that can be completely opened in the middle are perfect, as you can simply lift the cat out. For the most part, natural materials are better suited to cats; however, when it comes to the carrier it is preferable to get one made of plastic as they are easier to clean should your cat need to relieve itself. They should have a high-quality finish and have no sharp corners or edges, as these could injure the kitten.



Tip: Place something absorbent, such as training pads for puppies or kittens, under the blanket. Training pads are available in a variety of sizes and they are perfect for use in the carrier! The pads are quick to absorb and stay nice and dry.

Do not put the carrier in the cellar or in the attic, instead make it a fixed part of the cat’s life as much as possible– a piece of furniture that the kitten is happy to visit without negative connotations.

Inside, place a treasured toy or their favourite blanket that smells just like them.

Caution should be exercised with synthetic “attractants” – this can quickly backfire. This new cave also gets interesting when a tasty treat is placed inside every now and then! It is always worth passing by to take a look. And who knows, one day it might be so inviting that your kitty retreats there for a little nap. Anything can happen when you are patient and don’t pressure them..

Always remember: a cat that is reluctant to be placed in a carrier – possibly under time constraints – will turn into a terror!