At some point in the last 20 years, boneless, skinless chicken breasts became terribly uncool. Professional cooks and recipe developers (like me) turned up their noses at white meat in favor of cheap and flavorful thighs. There was nary a boneless breast in sight unless it was breaded and fried.

Boneless breasts have taken a back seat for two big reasons: They don’t have much flavor, and they dry out easily. But what some see as shortcomings I see as assets. Bland? How about neutral in flavor. Easy to overcook? I think you mean quick-cooking. Both of these characteristics make them a fast, family-friendly option that isn’t buttered pasta. There are three fail-safe ways to leverage chicken breasts’ strengths: crisping, glazing or marinating them.

Like any meat, boneless, skinless breasts benefit from a good sear, which adds fat and texture, and builds a layer of caramelized flavor, just as the skin would. Don’t rush it, or you’ll be left with flabby and flavorless meat. To help things along, dredge the breasts in grated Parmesan beforehand. When they hit the pan, the cheese melts and crisps into frico, a nutty crust so deceiving that when I first made this at home my husband took one bite and said, “This is skinless?” Good man. Toss some big-flavored vegetables like mushrooms and red onion into the skillet, and you’ll never miss the skin.