Not far from Helmut Newcake, near the Louvre, the famed French baker Eric Kayser, too, has gluten-free offerings on the Rue de l’Échelle. It took 18 months of fiddling with different flours to develop his line of bread (as well as some sweets). “For a bakery it’s disturbing to make gluten-free bread,” said Élodie de Montbron of La Maison Kayser (maison-kayser.com/en). “It’s more like a cake dough than a bread dough.” Yet she said they were motivated to bake this way because customers were begging them to do so.

You can also find artisanal leavened breads made with flours like rice and buckwheat at Chambelland (chambelland.com). It opened in the spring of 2014 in the 11th Arrondissement, in an area known for being a hub for food businesses. Nearby there’s a fishmonger, four butchers, four bakeries, a specialty food shop and a cheese merchant. The French call these businesses “commerce de bouche,” literally “business of the mouth.”

It was the culinary possibilities of baking with grains other than wheat that inspired the owners Nathaniel Doboin and Thomas Teffri-Chambelland. “With other grains you can offer another experience,” Mr. Doboin said. “It’s another aroma, another texture, another shape.”

Image A gluten-free lemon cake at Chambelland. Credit... Alex Cretey-Systermans for The New York Times

Mr. Teffri-Chambelland, a well-known baker, had won accolades for wheat loaves, and gluten-free was a new challenge. “This attracts the curious,” said Mr. Doboin, who left an advertising career. They even have started their own gluten-free flour mill in the south of France. At Chambelland, as at La Maison Kayser and Helmut Newcake, they don’t use the food-grade gums, starches and preservatives that are the norm in North American gluten-free products. Chambelland’s reputation for quality has drawn the attention of one of France’s most renowned chefs today. Alain Ducasse serves Chambelland’s pain aux cinq grains (the five grains being buckwheat, sunflower, gold and brown flax, poppy seed and sesame) with salted butter in two of his Parisian restaurants.