You are so close! Right now the contacts are successfully attached to the crossbar, but the problem is that many of them are probably too close to the keys. Ideally, each key should only touch its corresponding contact after it has been pressed more than halfway down. Therefore, we need to prop the crossbar back from the keys a little.



The method for propping the crossbar back is different for each typewriter. For example, if you look carefully you'll find that Remingtons all have adjustable tabs connected to either on either side of the crossbar that prop it back. Many Underwoods also have these tabs. Other Underwoods have a thin metal bar, perpendicular to the crossbar, which props it back. Smith Coronas have a hook that extends from the left side of the crossbar to the tension-adjustment spring. Regardless what kind of tab, hook, or bar your typewriter uses to prop back the crossbar, you will have to either a) bend it a little or b) add a shim. The best source of shim material is the plastic PCB scrap you cut away from the sensor board in Step 5. You ideally want to add about 1.5mm-2mm of separation between the keys and the crossbar, and luckily this scrap is 1.6mm thick.



THE QUICK AND EASY WAY:

If you are unsure what system your typewriter uses to prop back the crossbar, there is a very simple solution that will work on any typewriter. Unfortunately, it involves sacrificing one of the keys (I suggest sacrificing the "1/2 1/4" key, which has no equivalent on a modern keyboard). Simply remove the contact underneath that key, and in its place attach a small piece of shim material using superglue. By resting between the key and the crossbar, the shim will ensure that the crossbar is separated from all of the other keys, too. The best source of shim material is the plastic PCB scrap you cut away from the sensor board in Step 5.