Is there anything more American than a nice juicy wiener? Maybe. Thus it’s only fitting that the comfort-food-loving capital of Wisconsin add a hot dog joint to its growing collection of restaurants. Just a week old, the Wiener Shop at 447 W. Gilman is already impressing the town with its crafty ingredients and bold flavor combinations. When a hole-in-the-wall wiener shop can make a hot dog taste just like sushi, there must be something serious afoot.

Dedicated to the dog

The Wiener Shop is dedicated to hot dogs and hot dogs only, yet they stray from the average fast food joint with the daring options to compliment and top off the dog. With nearly a dozen specialty dogs on the menu, it’s hard not to find a flavor variety that speaks to you. From the popular Madison Dairyland Dog to the San Francisco BLT Dog, the Wiener Shop knows what’s up in terms of catering to everyone’s quirky, hot-diggity needs.

Each masterpiece begins with either a Wisconsin-made beef wiener or a locally-made vegan tempeh dog. Patrons are then given the choice of an Oakhouse Bakery bun or a vegan, gluten-free corn tortilla to hold the dog and its fixings.

However unconventional the tempeh option may sound, it is a must try. Even the uber-traditionalists would sing praises about the flavorful meatiness of this encased soy product. This protein-packed dog is griddled up until its exterior is browned to a crisp, giving it a unique smokiness that mirrors the intensity of real meat. The corn tortilla is also an atypical option for the stand-in bun. Given that they load a generous amount of condiments onto your dog, opting for a corn tortilla is actually wise. With so much happening atop the dog, the bun can become a mouthful. That’s not to mention the great flavor that a soft corn tortilla can contribute when it’s folded up hugging a wiener.

Madison Dairyland Dog

In my recent visit to the Wiener Shop, I experienced two of their tasty craft dogs. First up was the Madison Dairyland Dog. The decision was logical; how could you forego a wiener wrapped in bacon, topped with onion jam and tater tots and drenched in Wisconsin lager-cheese sauce?

This guy certainly captured the heart of Midwestern comfort food culture. The bacon twisted all over the dog added a nice crunch, but it also looked pretty awesome. Meat on meat is clearly the way to go. The caramelized onion taste from the slightly sweet onion jam was the perfect way to balance out the otherwise savory concoction. Attune to the needs of its cheesehead customers, the Weiner Shop does not skimp on the dishing out of their intensely flavorful lager-cheese sauce. Add on some crisp, hearty nuggets of tater tot and it becomes a winning dog.

Vancouver Asian Dog

The next item I dug into was the Vancouver Asian Dog. From the sesame-ginger slaw and sliced avocado to the wasabi mayo and sweet soy sauce, this dog called for something lighter so I opted for the tempeh dog and the corn tortilla. At first bite I was amazed, amazed that a hot dog could taste so much like another favorite food of mine — sushi. Yes, biting into the Vancouver Asian Dog feels like eating a California roll. The only thing missing is the chopsticks.

The slaw is packed with flavor, yet very light. The dog is topped with just a few slices of fresh avocado, but the smooth texture and subtle taste are on point. Though what really puts this dog at the top of the charts is the wasabi mayo. Prepare yourself for that wasabi, people. You may shed a few tears from this powerful ingredient; the Weiner Shop isn’t shy on the portions of this glorious green substance. It’s likely this powerful wasabi is what makes the dog so reminiscent of your traditional sushi experience.

Offering so many fresh takes on an American classic, this is a spot wiener fans should hit up. I’m willing to bet that even hot dog haters will walk out true converts.