I’ve been absolutely loving my Svoe Mesto Kayfun clone that I got from Fasttech. Besides the Rocket, this was the first true Kayfun clone I have ever worked with, and I was immediately dazzled by the simplicity and performance. I have had a chance to use this now since about the beginning of November, and I have a pretty good handle on how I like to set up a basic Chimney Coil.

The premise of the Chimney Coil is pretty simple. We want to create a vertically positioned micro coil with wick wrapped around the outside, and a hollow center that is aligned with the airhole on the Kayfun deck.

The cotton around the outside of the coil will put pressure on it and will suck air in from the intake directly through the coil where it produces ample vapor and an impressive end result.

This is a very easy setup to build, it requires no maintenance and it performs very well in terms of vapor and wicking.

It may deliver slightly less flavor than you would get with a wick-through-the-coil build, however it’s up to you to determine which build has more upside. I think either way is good, and I would encourage you to experiment with both.

So with all that said, let’s get on with the build!

What You’ll Need

For this tutorial, you will need the following items:

Kayfun style atomizer. I am using the Svoe Mesto Kayfun clone from Fasttech. This would also work with the Rocket, BT 804 Dream Tank, Squape and of course any authentic Kayfun series atomizer.

I am using the Svoe Mesto Kayfun clone from Fasttech. This would also work with the Rocket, BT 804 Dream Tank, Squape and of course any authentic Kayfun series atomizer. Kanthal wire. I use 28 gauge kanthal wire for this. You could also use 30, however remember that your results will be different from mine if you do.

I use 28 gauge kanthal wire for this. You could also use 30, however remember that your results will be different from mine if you do. 1/16th Drill bit. This is for wrapping the coil. I like 1/16th because it is narrow enough that you can get a lot of wraps but large enough to allow good airflow through the coil, so I strongly recommend you use the 1/16 – you can pick up a 2-pack at Walmart for around $1.00. Of course, you could use a different sized drill bit, or a straightened out paperclip, but your build will need a different amount of wraps than shown here.

This is for wrapping the coil. I like 1/16th because it is narrow enough that you can get a lot of wraps but large enough to allow good airflow through the coil, so I strongly recommend you use the 1/16 – you can pick up a 2-pack at Walmart for around $1.00. Of course, you could use a different sized drill bit, or a straightened out paperclip, but your build will need a different amount of wraps than shown here. Cotton Ball. You’ll need a piece of a cotton ball for the wick. Any sterile cotton ball will do. I have also pulled the cotton off a Q-tip in the past and that works just fine.

You’ll need a piece of a cotton ball for the wick. Any sterile cotton ball will do. I have also pulled the cotton off a Q-tip in the past and that works just fine. Wire cutter. You will need to trim the kanthal, so you will need a wire cutter, scissors, or I like to use a nail clipper.

You will need to trim the kanthal, so you will need a wire cutter, scissors, or I like to use a nail clipper. Phillip’s head screwdriver. You’ll need a small screwdriver for the posts – most Kayfuns are phillips heads.

You’ll need a small screwdriver for the posts – most Kayfuns are phillips heads. Ohm meter. You MUST have some way to measure your ohms before firing the device. You can use a simple Ohm Meter, or any VV/VW device that measures ohms – like a SVD.

Step 1: The Coil

The first thing you are going to need to do is wrap a good micro coil. The key here, is that you need to wrap a very tight coil where all the wraps are completely touching. So take your 1/16th drill bit, and tightly wrap 12 wraps of kanthal around it.

Your result should look something like this:

The coil should not have any gaps in it at all. If it DOES have gaps, then slide your coil off the drill bit. Then hold a flame over the coil for 5-10 seconds until it is completely glowing orange. Once it is glowing orange, quickly pinch it together with a pliers. You don’t need to pinch hard, just nice and firm to get all the wraps touching nicely. Then slide it back on to the drill bit.

The next thing you will need to do is attach the coil to the Kayfun deck. You’re going to want to keep your coil on the drill bit for this part – in fact, if you are using a 1/16th drill bit like I suggest, you will see that it fits nearly perfect into the airhole in the atomizer deck, so feel free to stick the drill bit in there to give you a more solid area to work with. Then carefully wrap the top and bottom leg – you want there to be as little space between the coil and deck as possible, but it’s ok if the legs get a little long on you.

NOTE – the top leg should attach to the negative post, which is on the short side. The bottom leg should attach to the positive post, which is right next to the airhole.

When you’re done, you should have something that looks like this:

You can see my top leg is a little on the long side, but it really didn’t effect performance for me at all on this build. Also, notice that I have kept the drill bit in place.

At this point, you can now put your Kayfun on an ohm meter and check the ohms on it.

Let’s Talk About Ohms

First off, regardless of what you may have heard, it is really dangerous messing around with super low ohm builds. Now some people can do this completely safely because they have the proper equipment and knowledge to do so. If you don’t know anything about battery amps, don’t attempt any crazy sub ohm builds.

Additionally, one thing that is important to know about Kayfun style atomizers is that they really do not do well with sub ohm builds. At least I haven’t been able to get one to work well for an extended period of time.

For me, the absolute minimum ohms I would recommend for the Svoe Mesto Kayfun Clone is 1.2. I have tried going lower and had only sporadic success at best.

If you did 12 wraps like I suggested, your ohms should come out to about 1.2. You might want to even do 14 wraps for your first build just to be on the safe side.

Positioning the Coil

Once the coil has been wrapped and secured, you just need to make sure it is positioned correctly. It should be lined up DIRECTLY over the airhole. If you followed my advice exactly, you should still have a drillbit going straight through the coil and into the airhole – great: that means your coil is perfectly aligned. Otherwise, take time right now to make sure your coil is perfectly positioned over the airhole.

Then, you also want to make sure your coil is up off the deck. you don’t want any of it to be touching the atomizer deck at all. If your coil is currently flush with the deck – that’s OK, you just need to bump it up a little bit.

Just take a SMALL flat head screwdriver, or some other similar object and carefully slide it under the bottom wrap and slowly nudge it up a little bit. As long as your coil is off of the deck, it doesn’t matter how far – just so that it’s completely off.

Step 2 – Wrapping the Wick

Once your coil is wrapped, attached, positioned and you’ve checked the ohms, you are ready to wrap it up.

Pull off about 1/4 of a cotton ball. Really you probably only need 1/8th or less, but you can always pull more off if need be. A good general rule with cotton wicks is you usually need WAY less than you think you are going to need.

Roll the wick just slightly so that it is all uniform and around the same thickness.

If you’ve got a gap between your coil leg and your coil like I have in my picture, what I do is start by threading the wick through there. If you wrap it around the outside of the coil leg rather than the inside, you may cause a gap between the cotton and the coil which can create a hot spot.

So the key here is to make sure that your wick is tightly pressed against the coil with no open gaps.

The second thing to pay attention to is that you are not wrapping your wick way above and/or below your coil. There is a tendency when wrapping cotton wicks around coils for the cotton part to spill over the coil part. You really want the cotton to be as close to flush with the coil as humanly possible. Otherwise, cotton spilling over the bottom could potentially plug the airhole or the bottom of the coil, and cotton spilling over the top can cause the top of the coil opening to become plugged. The most important part of this build is to make sure your airflow through the coil is not obstructed, so this is a critical step.

You should absolutely keep the drill bit stuck through the coil for this step. I usually only need about 1.5 – 2 wraps of cotton around the coil. You really just want enough so that it’s covered, and you’ve got a little mass there to absorb a decent amount of juice.

It should look something like this:

Now here’s another important thing to note – the Kayfun style atomizers generally have a “channel” at the bottom of the atomizer deck on each side. The channel seems to be inviting you to place your wick into it, however these are really not meant for wicks at all, rather for juice to flow through.

After my wick is saturated, I like to rest each end of the wick on the deck – but not in any way obstructing the channel.

Once yours looks close to the above, and you are confident you don’t have too much spillover on the top and bottom, the next thing you will want to do is prime the wick.

So pull out your favorite juice and get the wick fully saturated. Remember there is some bulk and density there, so you may need to hit it a couple times with liquid to get it fully saturated.

Once the wick is wet, this is a good time to adjust the top and bottom to get it better centered on the coil, as it is more pliable once it’s wet.

If you’re satisfied that your wick looks good, you’re ready to pull out the drill bit. You should see a hole going down through the top of the coil all the way into the airhole. If so, good job, you are ready to finish up.

It should look something pretty close to this:

Step 3 – Screw up, fill up and vape

Before I screw everything back together, now is the time I like to test fire it and make sure it looks normal. You don’t want to wait until you have everything screwed back together and filled with juice to find that you have problems with your build. So test fire it now. You should see a pretty nice plume of vapor rise out of the center of the coil. If so, you’re ready to clean up and start vaping.

First off, screw the top cap of the atomizer chamber back on.

Once that is done, I like to fill from the top. Filling a Kayfun from the top is super easy.

First make sure everything but the top cap is totally screwed in tightly.

Second, put your finger over the airhole, making SURE that it is completely covered.

Third, fill the tank up full.

Fourth, screw the top cap on 1 turn – just enough so that it is locked in place (your finger should still be covering the airhole).

Fifth, with your finger still over the airhole, quickly flip the entire atomizer upside down and screw the top cap the rest of the way in.

If done correctly, this will create a vacuum effect that will prevent most leakage issues and help with wicking.

Now you should be all ready to vape.

This particular vape produces very dense clouds, to the point where I think the cloud density actually helps enhance the throat hit quite a bit. For a 1.2 – 1.4 ohm atomizer, you should do pretty well at 3.7 volts. In fact, 1.2 might even be a little on the low side for a mech with fresh batteries that put out 4.2 volts.

Some people might argue that the flavor isn’t as good on a build like this. I think it is less-so in Kayfuns as opposed to doing a similar build on say a dripping atomizer. I actually find the flavor to be pretty solid, but you will definitely want to experiment yourself.

Overall this is a super easy build to do, and works fantastically. It also works great doing even more wraps for a higher ohm level, and running it on a VV/VW device at a higher voltage.

Here’s a video of this exact build in action:

If you have any questions, leave a comment!

Enjoy!