Christmas in Poland: Krakow casts magical spell

Scenes from Krakow's magical Christmas market 1/24

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KRAKOW, Poland — Baby, it’s cold outside. But a steaming cup of grzaniec galicyjski, Poland’s version of mulled wine, is just the thing to warm up the body and spirit on a frosty December day.

Giant wooden barrels filled with grzaniec are ubiquitous at Krakow’s Christmas market, held from the end of November until Dec. 26 in the Rynek — the sprawling medieval square that is the centerpiece of Krakow’s picturesque Old Town.

It is also one of the few historic districts in Europe that escaped destruction during World War II, sparing Krakow’s old landmarks, including the Wawel Castle, a Renaissance palace where Polish kings once lived.

These old but well-preserved architectural marvels provide a storybook backdrop for the Christmas market, where dozens of wooden stalls sell local crafts, hand-painted decorations, jewelry, ceramics, clothes, candles, wreaths and other gifts.

Antique horse-drawn carriages that ferry shoppers around the quaint, cobblestone streets surrounding the square add a touch of magic to the holiday festivities.

Among the more interesting offerings here are replicas of traditional nativity scenes called “szopki.” Although Christmas crèches are common in many cultures, Krakow’s creations are unique. These colorful and richly decorated structures — some of them standing over 6 feet tall — use the city’s historic buildings to depict the birth of Jesus. They are crafted each year by professional artists, amateurs and even schoolchildren and are displayed in the churches, in the streets and in the History Museum located on the square’s northwest corner.

Food, of course, is a major component of any Christmas market. There is no shortage of it in Krakow and for the most part it is hearty and heavy. Traditional Polish kielbasa sausage and pig knuckles are served piping hot with a slice of bread and mustard, as are potato-filled pierogis, and “oscypek” — grilled slices of smoked cheese made from sheep’s milk in the nearby Tatra mountains. Another typical food that may surprise those not familiar with the peasant origins of Polish cuisine is “pajda ze smalcem,” softened lard spread thickly on hot slices of bread and topped with fried onions.

Despite the high caloric content, the food is delicious, inexpensive and very filling, providing enough energy to keep browsing, shopping and sightseeing.

The flavors of Europe’s Christmas markets 1/43

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It is just as well, because at the center of the market square is a relic of Krakow’s history as a medieval merchant town. Built in the 14th century and renovated in the 16th, Sukiennice — the Cloth Hall — was originally used for textile trade. Now the carved wooden stalls are laid out with amber jewelry, lacework, wood carvings, sheepskin rugs, embroidered clothing, leather goods and other traditional Polish artworks.

Across from the Sukiennice is one of Krakow’s best known churches, St. Mary’s Basilica. Though this Gothic brick structure looks simple from the outside, its interior is ornate and opulent, with tall stained-glass windows, the starred ceiling and an impressive wooden altar that took its sculptor, the 15th-century German artist Veit Stoss, 12 years to create.

A unique feature of the basilica is an hourly bugle call, with a trumpeter playing from the east, west, north and south sides of one of the church’s towers. This tradition dates to the Middle Ages, when the trumpet signaled the opening and the closing of the city gates. The plaintive sound of the trumpet, especially after dark, gives the Christmas market a fairy-like aura.

The basilica is just one of Krakow’s many churches, monasteries and convents, reflecting Poland’s devoutly Catholic faith. In fact, before he became Pope John Paul II, Karol Wojtyla was the city’s archbishop, and is still beloved and revered by the residents. The window of the Bishop's Palace on Franciszkanska Street, from which he greeted and addressed the crowds, now bears his portrait, and the area in front of the building is filled with candles and flowers on important occasions, such as the Pope’s birthday or anniversary of his death.

Another vestige of the Holy Father’s presence in Krakow is the Franciscan Church across from the Bishop’s Palace. A commemorative plaque indicates the back pew where he used to pray.

Perhaps one of the most typical aspects of Polish — and Krakow’s — holiday celebrations are the traditional “koledy,” spiritual songs performed during the Christmas season. Krakow’s carolers sing throughout December, with the final performance on the 26th near the statue of Poland’s iconic poet, Adam Mickiewicz, which is in the middle of the square.

Krakow’s Christmas market is smaller compared to other European towns (see below), but it is brimming with a festive spirit. Its compact size imparts coziness, and the slower pace and relaxed atmosphere spread comfort and joy.

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Europe is known for its festive Christmas markets. Here are some of the most famous ones:

• Strasbourg, in the Alsace region of France, is arguably the best known of Europe’s Christmas markets. With about 300 stalls spread around 10 locations, it is also one of the largest. Until Dec. 30.

• Vienna’s market is held in several locations throughout the city. An ice skating rink, reindeer rides and handcrafted goods make Austria’s capital one of the prime destinations for holiday festivities. Until Dec. 26.

• Berlin’s market in the scenic Gendarmenmarkt square features all the usual stalls, as well as candle makers, glassblowers, wood carvers and other craftsmen demonstrating their art. Until Dec. 31