The Accidental Vegetarian: Grilling the Japanese way

Amanda Berne once enjoyed a simple artisanally crafted block of tofu so rich it was cheeselike. Amanda Berne once enjoyed a simple artisanally crafted block of tofu so rich it was cheeselike. Photo: Craig Lee, SFC Photo: Craig Lee, SFC Image 1 of / 3 Caption Close The Accidental Vegetarian: Grilling the Japanese way 1 / 3 Back to Gallery

The first time I ate Japanese food was in the Japan pavilion at Epcot Center in Disney World, when I was 9. It was here among the koi-filled ponds and the Japantown-esque architecture that I slurped my first bowl of fat, slippery udon. I still remember the steamy broth loaded with seaweed and vegetables, and the chewiness of the thick white udon. Watching my father try to use chopsticks had me roaring with laughter.

While it still makes me laugh to watch my father use chopsticks, my taste in Japanese food has extended beyond the easy-to-love big bowl of udon.

The subtley nuanced vegetarian, often vegan, preparations in Japanese cooking make me feel like I'm eating a healthful, guilt-free dish. Many of the dishes use very few ingredients to convey a lot of flavor, depending on various seaweeds, misos and mushrooms to add depth.

A few vegetarian Japanese restaurants have opened in the Bay Area during the past few years, and it was at one of them that I was reminded of how simple, yet how full-flavored good Japanese dishes can be.

There's a soup at Cha-Ya, in the Mission District, that seems to have restorative powers. That's what I keep telling myself. It's the dobin mushi, a clear soup with mushrooms, tofu and other vegetables. The mushroom flavor comes through clear and clean, and the whole thing is served in a little tea pot. The broth is poured into small tea cups for sipping, while the vegetables can be eaten afterward.

At the now-closed Medicine Eatstation, I enjoyed a simple artisanally crafted block of tofu, so rich it was cheeselike, with shredded ginger and soy sauce for dousing. It's hard to imagine just eating a block of tofu, but then again, it was hard to stop it, too.

Mirroring this simplicity, while following another favorite Japanese food trend of skewered and grilled dishes, I developed a recipe for the Tofu Kebabs depends on using the best-quality ingredients available. Alternate firm, fat cubes of tofu with lengths of green onion and meaty shiitake mushroom caps, and baste them in a salty-sweet miso glaze. Cook the skewers on a grill or in a grill pan, or broil them, watching closely to make sure the sugar in the glaze doesn't burn.

Use any kind of miso. Red miso has a strong flavor, while white (shiro) is milder and sweeter. The glaze is also good brushed onto corn and then grilled.

The skewers are especially nice with sunomono (for recipe, see the link with this story on sfgate.com/food), a cooling cucumber salad that mirrors the salty-sweet taste but adds some crunch. Or, serve them on top of the Soba Salad with Creamy Sesame Dressing to make a more substantial salad.

Don't let using seaweed intimidate you. It simply needs to be rehydrated in water before it's ready to use. And, it's low in calories and high in fiber. Wakame is high in protein, calcium and iron, making it a great addition for salads and soups. If the wakame is a bit unruly (unlike the tamer hijiki), cut it into manageable pieces with kitchen shears, and toss it with a little vinegar or lemon to cut any sliminess from oversoaking.

Tofu Kebabs Serves 4 These skewers have a lovely miso glaze that needs no sauce for dunking. These make a great, easy vegetarian option for the usual meat-heavy barbecues. Soak wooden skewers in water for at least 30 minutes before using. 1/4 cup brown sugar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons warm water

2 tablespoons white miso or any other miso

1 tablespoon sesame oil

1 1/2 teaspoons grated ginger

1 tablespoon minced shallot

6 scallions, cut into 2-inch lengths

2 lemons, cut into 1/4-inch thick slices

12 ounces extra-firm tofu, drained and cut into large pieces (about 1 1/2- to 2-inch cubes)

12 small shiitake mushroom caps (or 3 large ones cut into quarters)

White and black sesame seeds, for sprinkling Instructions: Preheat the grill to medium. Alternatively, the skewers can be cooked in a grill pan over medium-high heat. Combine sugar, soy sauce, water, miso, sesame oil, ginger and shallot in a small bowl. Thread scallion, lemons, tofu and mushroom on skewers, alternating. Each skewer should have two pieces of tofu. Brush glaze on skewers, covering all sides, and transfer skewers to the grill or grill pan. Grill, turning occasionally, until all sides are golden brown and the scallions and mushrooms have softened slightly, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and serve immediately. Per serving: 180 calories, 10 g protein, 25 g carbohydrate, 5 g fat (1 g saturated), 0 cholesterol, 875 mg sodium, 2 g fiber.