In his mind, Noma hasn’t even crawled out of its infancy. “We’re just finding our way,” he said. “Even though it has been successful, even though it has had media attention and all that.” Lately, he has been asking himself broad existential questions about what it means to be a local restaurant in the Nordic region. “What are we?” he said. “And how do we progress?”

To illustrate all this as he showed off the property, he grabbed a pebble and scratched out the number 12 in the dirt. Then he added a zero, conveying the notion that Noma could last for a century or more. “We should make decisions that make this evolution last for 912 years,” he said.

As for the next two years, he’s already committed to giving the menu a radical shake-up. Over time, he has become less and less sure that it makes sense for customers to pass through the traditional stages of a tasting menu, from small nibbles to a slab of meat, culminating in sweets and coffee. “We’ve allowed the format of a tasting menu to dictate what we cook,” he said.

Image The young cooks are asked to put together their own dishes for Mr. Redzepi’s inspection and analysis. Credit... Laerke Posselt for The New York Times

He intends to replace that predictable progression with a more fervent adherence to seasonality. In the fall, then, Noma’s menu will focus only on wild game (from goose to moose) and foraged autumnal ingredients like mushrooms and forest berries. In the winter, when “the waters are ice-cold and some of the fish have bellies full of roe,” as he put it, Noma will mutate into a seafood restaurant.

Spring and summer? “The world turns green,” he said. “And so will the menu.” In an expectation-thwarting move, during those months Noma will become a fully vegetarian restaurant, with much of the bounty ostensibly coming from the farm he wants to conjure up.

“It’s huge,” he said. “How are you going to give a bowl of spinach the same pleasure that a steak gives? A richness of flavor: That is something that we will deal with.” (Even the tableware will shift with each season.)