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It’s hardly a coincidence that the white tablecloth-clad dining room at Atherton’s deluxe new restaurant, Selby’s, looks ripped from the pages of a Ralph Lauren Home or Williams Sonoma catalogue. Designer Stephen Brady used to work for those companies, as well as the Gap, before turning to restaurants. Handed the keys to the 10,000-square-foot space from the team behind San Francisco’s Spruce, Bacchus Management (the Saratoga, the Village Pub, and others), Brady took the dining room back in time, adding dashes of old Hollywood glamour to set the scene for a swanky menu from Bacchus executive chef Mark Sullivan. Just envision some brass bar carts rolling around the room — they’re serving “the coldest martini in the West” — to complete the picture.

Selby’s 3001 El Camino Real space (at the corner of namesake Selby Lane) has its own rich history to draw on. The ivy-covered building — formerly Chantilly (1974 to 2017) and before that Johnny’s (est. 1938) has held a favored place among residents of the tree-lined suburb. And if Selby’s ritzy tone seems a bit rich, bear in mind that the average Atherton household makes $450,000 a year.

To meet whatever local diners demand — date nights, anniversaries, IPO parties — the Bacchus team has it all, including a 20,000-bottle wine list. That’s plenty of options for pairing with Selby’s dry-aged roast crown of duck for two ($98) or a black label burger with époisses and Australian black truffle ($50).

Selby’s opened Monday, July 23rd. Hours are 5 to 10 p.m. nightly.