How to Choose the Right Bra Size and Style

Last updated on : May 13 2020

Contents

Introduction

Choosing a bra is like shopping for a car - frustrating but satisfying. The right bra can increase your cup size, craft abundant cleavage, and provide the perfect fit for your favorite sexy styles.

Which bras do you need, and which ones are optional? In this full bra size and style guide, we cover the topic in depth. And consult bra and lingerie experts to help us along.

A Brief History of the Bra

Over the years, bras have evolved from simple polyester covers to methods of support, style, and definition. As women have become more sophisticated, bra's have changed to match. The history of bras and the role of women is connected.

The first recorded and recognized bras were corsets in the 14th century. Corsets pushed and lifted women's breasts to provide bountiful mounds and cleavage. They also cinched the waistline, which gave bustlines the appearance of being fuller.

By the 19th century, various alternatives began to appear. Simple bras gained popularity because they relieved women of the discomfort of a corset. Bras with straps provided comfortable and reliable support and started to pop up in retail stores around the 1930s.

Today, bras come in an array of styles, colors, designs, and construction. Whether you need a strapless bra to wear with a sexy sweetheart bandage dress or a deep plunge bra to pull off a draped dress, you have unlimited options.

Your choice matters. Many companies try to educate women on the purpose, proper fit, and intention of bras. However, most fail to touch on issues that real women face. We aim to change that.

Finding the Perfect Bra

To find the perfect bra, we consulted with bra expert Erica Windle, co-founder of A Sophisticated Pair. Her lingerie boutique is at St. Mark's Church Road, Burlington, NC. We asked her a few questions.

Erica, what would you say is the most critical type of bra for women today?

I'd say "a bra that fits comfortably." Comfort is the most critical and challenging aspect of being a bra fitter.

Some women have no problem finding comfortable styles that work. However, others struggle to find the best mix of comfort, style, and shape—especially those in sizes outside the mainstream.

We receive many requests for smooth cup bras that disappear under thin or sheer fabrics but still provide discreet nipple protection. While these bras serve a purpose, they often don't offer the right levels of comfort or shape.

For me, I would prefer to show a seam than being uncomfortable with the wrong shape. Being comfortable is the advice we give.

Beyond a proper fit, I think t-shirt bras have become essential for most women.

We sell a ton of strapless dresses. What is the key to wearing a strapless bra and getting the support you need?

The bad news is that strapless bras don't work for many women, especially those with larger cup sizes. You can find strapless bras in the US-H cup and above. However, for bigger cup sizes, bra construction struggles to maintain shape and support.

With a regular bra, you receive about 80 percent of the support from the band, with the straps providing the rest. Remove the straps, and the bra can fail to give the lift and shape needed. This lack of support can be troublesome for all cup sizes.

With that in mind, there are some key factors to consider when shopping for a strapless bra:

If you don't have a silicone allergy look for bras with silicone gel lining the interior, especially the upper cup, the gel grips the skin and keeps the bra in place as you move.

Side stays on the wings are also helpful to keep breasts lifted and the bra anchored. Other excellent features include detachable straps, padded cradles (the part of the bra surrounding the underwires), and a less rigid molded cup for better shaping.

Consider the necklines and fabrics of your dresses and tops. If you wear a lot of low cut clothing, you'll need a strapless bra with a plunge shape to ensure it does not show.

Some strapless bras use boning in the cup or seams to give a better fit. Choose a smooth cup bra instead of one with boning when wearing thinner knits.

Examine the top of the cup. Softer, bottom-heavy tissue, will create fit issues in an open cup. If you have full-on top breasts, a strapless bra with a closed cup may create overflow no matter the size.

Don't be afraid to discuss the issue with a dressmaker familiar with intimates. Sometimes a bra that may fit you well is only available in a sister size. A good dressmaker can tighten the band for you or add darts to change the cup shape. If you want to wear a strapless bra, alterations can make it possible.

We sell a ton of strapless dresses at The Kewl Shop.

In your expert opinion, Erica, how many bras should a woman have in her closet?

I recommend a minimum of two bras to rotate. Having this minimum will preserve their shape and longevity. Beyond those two, it's up to the person's taste and budget.

The more everyday bras you have in rotation, the longer they last. I prefer to have at least four to give me adequate time to wear and wash them.

You will want some specialty bras in addition to your everyday styles. Depending on your needs, these will be strapless bras, sports bras, or leisure bras. I don't like to give any hard and fast rules because everyone has different needs and budgets.

Top Bra Myths

Bra myths abound, and with the help of Erica, we present the top eight.

Underwires cause cancer

The 1995 book Dressed to Kill claimed that underwire bras correlate with a higher risk of developing breast cancer.

According to their hypothesis, underwires trapped lymphatic drainage in the breast tissue, leading to cancer. The claims are not scientifically proven because the study failed to exclude other risk factors for women, such as hereditary and weight.

However, the damage was done, with many women permanently swearing off underwire bras for fear of developing cancer later in life.

Every woman needs a beige, black, and white bra.

This myth is a throwback to a time when essential colored bras were the only ones available. Modern shoppers don't need to stock up on neutrals unless it suits their personal preferences.

If you wear light-colored clothing and want your bra to be discreet, choose one colored close to your skin tone. However, think outside the traditional neutral trinity. Look for a range of colors like blush pink, cappuccino, mocha, or even less traditional ones like lavender, eggplant, and olive.

For mid-tone and darker tops, nearly anything works underneath, so let your tastes run wild!

Bras should disappear underneath clothing.

Modern "underwear as outerwear" fashion trends show off your favorite lingerie pieces, including bras. The idea that you cannot have a seam or strap showing underneath your tops is old fashioned.

Customers should feel free to buy the bras that fit them best. Those that make them feel confident and not worried about being judged.

The T-Shirt Bra frequently promoted by style gurus can be plagued by fit problems and is available in a limited range of sizes. Expecting everyone to find one with a perfect fit and hidden under their t-shirt is not going to happen, and it isn't a problem.

A DD cup is HUGE!

Whenever a customer sees their new size, most are doubtful that they need a cup size higher than a D or DD, but it's quite common.

The media and more than a few memes have perpetuated this idea that cup sizes correlate to actual breast size. Cup sizes mean nothing without a band size.

A 30D and a 38D are in no way the same size, so it's impossible to use the cup size letter to indicate how big or small breasts are.

Bra straps provide support for the breasts.

The bulk of the support for the breasts comes from the bra band, not its straps.

Tightening bra straps to increase support can lead to long-term shoulder problems, including permanent grooves and nerve damage. The straps should be adjusted to pull the cup of the bra against the breast without digging or pulling.

If you let the band of the bra do the bulk of the work, then the lift is from the bottom, not from above. It's more comfortable for your shoulders and your back.

Buy a bra on the middle set of hooks.

You might buy a bra on the middle set of hooks to move a notch tighter or looser depending on how you feel that day.

However, over time, bands stretch and lose elasticity leaving you with fewer hooks to tighten when this happens. Buying a bra on the tightest hooks is worse.

If you start on the loosest set of hooks, you typically have at least two more notches to go down as the band loses elasticity. If you are between band sizes, we recommend trying a smaller band size with a short extender. An extender will give the band time to break in without sacrificing months of wear.

There is only one right way to measure for a bra.

Bra fitting can be a contentious issue, with many advocating different sets of measurement methods and techniques.

However, Erica says, no single measuring technique always works. When I work with clients, I ask questions about their current bra and fit preferences. I find that's a better place to start than with a tape measure.

Some clients prefer a firm band and will buy bras in the size of their ribcage measures while others need a looser fit and scale-up for comfort.

You need to find the size which feels best for you. Don't be bought in by someone's ideal measurement technique, especially if it leaves you with an uncomfortable bra.

Bras must always fit perfectly.

When I first opened my store, I was adamant about a perfect fit. However, I now realize that the ideal fit is not always possible, and in some cases, isn't completely necessary.

If a bra doesn't fit perfectly to standard but is comfortable, looks good, and provides the right amount of support, then that's ok.

I know this flies in the face of what most bra fitters will tell you. Don't be dissuaded from buying a bra you love if the fit is less than perfect. Furthermore, medical issues like sore ribs, hernias, and spinal problems might necessitate a more relaxed fit, go with it!

Finding the Perfect Bra - Summary

The key to finding the perfect bra is stocking up on the intimates that give you the support, shape, and definition you need. Don't be too constrained by ideal fit and measurement techniques.

Buy a few comfortable fitting bras and remember to rotate them regularly to protect the elasticity of each. Supplement with sports bras, strapless bras, or t-shirt bras to accommodate your lifestyle and day to day activities.

How to Measure for a Bra

If your bra is "too tight" or "digs in" then check your measurements before deciding on a new size or style. Measuring with a body tape measure (the soft vinyl type) gives you a good starting point for your size.

There are two steps. The first, measure yourself with a tape measure and the second, check for comfort. We call this last step our bra size and fit checklist.

Step 1 - Take your Measurements with a Tape Measure

There are a few ways to measure yourself. Most bra experts recommend that you get sized from a local bra specialist. However, if one is not available, this is how to do it yourself.

Take three measurements to work out your bra size, two for your band, and one for your cup.

To measure the first band location, wrap the tape around you and tuck it under your arms. Measure in the middle of your chest.

The next band measurement is at the bottom of your bust. Wrap the tape around your body and across the top of your ribcage to complete it. This measure is the size of the bra band you need.

If you land an odd number for either measurement, then round it up to the nearest even number.

Discovering your cup size is a bit more exciting. Measure loosely around your bust. Be sure to place the measuring tape around the fullest part of your breasts.

Subtract the first band measurement (the one under your arm) from your bust measurement. The difference between these measures gives your cup size - each inch represents a cup size.

So if I measured 34 inches in my band and 38 inches in my bust, then I'm a D cup.

Step 2 - Complete the Bra Size & Fit Checklist

Once you have your measurements, try on bras in different styles for comfort. Each bra style and type will cover, cup, and lift differently, so you need to check a few.

These are the points you should check: straps, coverage, fit, gaps, digging, and back.

Straps slipping off shoulders

Straps slipping off the shoulders can be a sign of too broad a band. Check if a smaller one with a looser setting works better instead.

Otherwise, check for shape incompatibility. Many balconette styles have wide-set straps as an example.

Excess spillage from the cups

If you're spilling from the cups, try a bigger cup size or a style with different coverage.

Check that the center clasp or panel of the bra lies flat against your chest between your breasts. A flat center clasp indicates a good fit. If it is on top of your breast tissue on either side, go up a size.

The gap between breasts and bra

If you see a difference between your breasts and the bra, look for smaller cup size. Similarly, fabric that wrinkles, looks baggy, or folds is a sign that you need to size down.

Check the back band

Use a mirror to check if the back of your bra fits as well as the front. The band should be horizontal and at the same level as the front.

A band that rises at the back indicates a size too big. Try to slide two fingers underneath. If they don't fit, either loosen the bra or choose a bigger size.

Check the underwire fit.

Underwires improve the support and lift of your bra. However, make sure they don't dig into your breasts or poke you anywhere. Underwires should lie flat against your body and be barely noticeable during wear.

Overall you must be comfortable in your bra.

Ali Cudby, CEO of Fab Foundations and founder of the most significant global bra fit training and certification program in the nation, hits it head-on. He says, "If you're not comfortable or contained, then your bra doesn't fit. And you deserve better."

He advises trying this test.

"Reach behind you and pull your bra band away from your back. Does it come away more than one or, at most, two inches? Can you feel resistance against your hand? If not, your band is too big, and your bra doesn't fit. It will never give you the support you need as a large-busted woman. Period."

Some further tips

Some further tips for finding your bra size courtesy of Grace from The Petite Collegiate