@Nino

I personally don’t drink alcohol during training and I don’t think it’s a very practical training technique.

My endurance training is more complicated than most. Because I do both bouldering and lead seasons and they have been separated for the most part, when I start the lead season I’m just coming off bouldering and I’m in “peak” power mode. This means that all the moves on the lead routes will be relatively easy and I will always fall from being pumped. I desperately need to get my endurance back so all I do is circuits. I start with 25 moves 6 times per session and move it up to 8. Then I advance to 40, 50 and sometimes 60 move circuits. The first 2 weeks are the most painful and then from my years of competing on both circuits, I start to adapt. While I am doing lead training I do 0% dead hangs and campus board. I might throw in conditioning once a week for core but I’m actually conscious that during the 4 months of lead season, my power will slowly go down. That being said, while training lead I generally train 11-15 hours per week and I lose about 1.5 kg. This is just the nature of the training.

While climbing outdoors, I try to climb the same as indoors: decisive, quick and minimize errors.

Cheers

-Sean