The next step is sketching out your designs. Because we are creating wearable that involves a lot of bending, it's important to have clean, simply lines. The less wires have to cross, the better.

I chose having my LEDs displayed in a line, to reduce the amount of wirecrossing/sewing.

NOTE: My first attempt resulted in a burnt knee sleeve because I crossed my wires. (Picture shown).

For this iteration, I sewed the bend sensor to the back of the leg. Ultimately, it requires some playing with to see where on the leg you get the best reading. Initially, I thought the back of the leg produced the best reading, but with the weight of the battery back and all the added components, I think the side of the leg my produce a better reading. So experiment!

With regular thread, sew the bend sensor vertically inside the knee sleeve (dorsal side, so it rests against the back of the knee). With the conductive thread, sew into the conductive fabric ends, connecting one end to D9 and the other end to GND.

With regular thread, attach push button to the knee sleeve. With conductive thread, connect one side of the button to D12 and the other side to GND. NOTE: Be sure not to cross your wires, or the button will not work!

Sew RGBs in sequence along the side of the knee sleeve. For your first RGB, use conductive thread to connect DIN (arrow pointing toward the RGB) to D9. Connect the (+) to VBATT and (-) to GND.

Connect your remaining RGBs. For each additional RGB, sew it's DIN to the preceding RGB's DOUT (arrow pointing away from the RGB). Sew the (+) to the previous RGB's (+) and (-) to the preceding (-).

Apply puffy paint to the inside of the knee sleeve, insulating all wires. Let dry.

Apply puffy paint to the outside of the knee sleeve, insulating all wires. Let dry.

Cover your RGBs (optional) with fabric.

Upload code to board. You're now ready to start squatting!