Handcut Kennebec fries at Hopdoddy. (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

The hand-cut fries are seasoned with herbs at Ironwood in Laguna Hills. (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

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Restaurant Marin doesn’t have an electric fryer. The kitchen is feuled entirely by wood, so the fries are cooked in a pot on top of the wood-fired grill. (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

About 75 pounds of freshly cut fries lie in each sink and are agitated by hand. The process takes a couple hours at Mission Viejo’s Five Guys. (CINDY YAMANAKA, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER)

About 75 pounds of freshly cut fries lie in each sink and are agitated by hand. The process takes a couple hours at Mission Viejo’s Five Guys. /(CINDY YAMANAKA, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER)



“Mmmmm” is all Cristal Chavez, 8, of Mission Viejo says as she chomps down one fry after another without stopping at Mission Viejo’s Five Guys. Her older sister did the same. They had no idea the fries were fried twice, but thought it worked deliciously. (CINDY YAMANAKA, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER)

Cristal Chavez, 8, of Mission Viejo likes her fries so much she willing to share with dad Roberto at Mission Viejo’s Five Guys. (CINDY YAMANAKA, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER)

Twice fried fries are generously salted at Five Guys in Mission Viejo. Frying a second time gets them crispy outside with a mashed potato like inside. The potatoes are from CBC Farms in Saint Anthony, Idaho. (CINDY YAMANAKA, ORANGE COUNTY REGISTER)

Greer Wylder and boyfriend Paul Nordlund share fries at A Restaurant in Newport Beach. (Photo by Cindy Yamanaka, Orange County Register/SCNG)

Wursthaus in Santa Ana served hand-cut fries, made to order. (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)



Skinny fries are made from scratch at Craft House in Dana Point. (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

It doesn’t get any better than the fried russet potatoes at The American Dream in Huntington Beach. (Photo by Brad A. Johnson, Orange County Register/SCNG)

It always amazes me that anyone would actually go to the trouble and expense of opening a restaurant, then choose to serve factory-processed food from a freezer bag. Thankfully, it feels as if the tide has shifted.

Real fries are coming back with a vengeance. Respect. Thank you, real chefs, for refusing to settle. These are currently the 10 best.

1. The American Dream

We have a new winner, by a nose. Thick-cut, twice-fried russet potatoes, perfectly cooked, perfectly seasoned, and insanely delicious. Plus there’s an ocean view. Pacific City, 21058 Pacific Coast Highway, Huntington Beach; 714-374-1330, theamericandreamhb.com

2. Craft House

If you like ’em skinny, these will make your knees wobble. Fresh herbs. Salt. Pepper. Done. 34094 Pacific Coast Highway, Dana Point; 949-481-7734, eatatcrafthouse.com

3. Wursthaus

Thick-cut Kennebecs, crisp and always straight from the fryer. 305 E. Fourth St., Santa Ana; 714-760-4333, wursthausdtsa.com

4. Five Guys

Still the best fries from a big chain. (Sorry In-N-Out, I still like you.) Medium-cut, twice fried and always overflowing the container. Sometimes it helps to ask for extra crisp. Various locations.

5. A Restaurant

Thick-cut, twice fried. Superb. 3334 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach; 949-650-6505, arestaurantnb.com

6. Restaurant Marin

On their own, or topped with chili and cheese, these fries are phenomenal. 3321 Hyland Ave., Costa Mesa; 949-402-3974, restaurantmarin.com

7. Ironwood

Medium-cut. Beautifully salted and seasoned. It’s impossible to eat fewer than 20 of these. 25250 La Paz Road, Laguna Hills; 949-446-8772, ironwoodlagunahills.com

8. Three Seventy Common

Medium-thin and twice fried with handfuls of herbs. Always a winner. 370 Glenneyre St., Laguna Beach; 949-494-8686, 370common.com

9. The Corner

Super-thick and thrice-fried. These require a two-day process. Uniquely outstanding. 8961 Adams Ave., Huntington Beach; 714-968-6800, thecornerhb.com

10. Hopdoddy

If you look into the kitchen, you’ll notice stacks of 50-pound bags of fresh Kennebec potatoes. And if you go at the right time, these freshly cut fries are awesome. The “right time” would be off hours, like the middle of the afternoon or later in the evening when they cook everything to order. (During the lunch rush, they cook in large batches, and the results can be mixed.) Fashion Island, 401 Newport Center Drive, No. 311 (between Macy’s and Sushi Roku); 949-640-2337, hopdoddy.com