Set in one of Manhattan’s oldest meat markets on the Lower East Side, Yohji Yamamoto’s “Future Thrift” fall collection for Y-3 imagines how coming generations might mix elements of technology and tradition. Ripe with asymmetrical cuts and deconstructed lines—not to mention plenty of layering—the designs produced clever new interpretations of Y-3’s sport-style signatures: exuberant graphic prints; innovative fabric juxtapositions; layered, voluminous silhouettes and instantly covetable footwear. In a season dominated by black, the clothes were quite comfortably at home—even if neon green shorts and a shirt here and there were peppered throughout. A Y-3 shows typically reworks classic wardrobe elements in a modern manner that infuses its own unique sportif.



Models walked the runway to music by Rinôçérôse and Ruth Brown while a front-row crowd, including SamClaflin, Nikolaj Coster-Waldau, A$AP Rocky and Casey Spooner took in the notion of what the future would look like under the auspices of Y-3. The results were classic silhouettes realized in innovative fabrics—and vice versa—for a startlingly modern effect. This might mean a traditional herringbone woven with a touch of Day-Glo yellow thread. Or a long pleated track-dress designed with a built-in PVC cape. Or a military-style tunic that unzips at the sides to reveal its neon lining. In the end, each piece strikes a balance between yesterday and tomorrow.



- Jim Shi

