So, why is Calibre CH 80 so important? Well, it represents a large investment from TAG Heuer into creating a modern in-house chronograph movement that’s not only technologically astute, but also well proportioned (at a rather slim 6.5mm). In addition to a column wheel, the chronograph mechanism includes a vertical clutch that allows for very precise start and stop of the chronograph seconds hand, with nearly no perceivable jitters. The vertical clutch tends to be perceived as a high-end alternative to the oscillating pinion, which was used in TAG’s Calibre 1887. When we reviewed the CH 80 (Calibre 1969) last year, the general consensus was that the technical improvements are laudable.

Notably, TAG Heuer expects to double production capacity from 50,000 in-house chronograph movements last year to 100,000 in 2016. To facilitate the production, TAG Heuer has invested CHF 40 million in a new manufacturing facility in Chevenez, Switzerland, supplementing its existing workshop at La Chaux-de-Fonds. In an effort to be more vertically integrated, the company has also acquired case-maker Cortech and dial-maker Artecad to bring production of more watch components in-house.