CLEVELAND, Ohio -- It's not exactly a news flash that the West Side Market neighborhood has undergone an amazing transformation in the last decade or so. I started making treks there more than 30 years ago. For a struggling journalist pinching pennies, it was worth the trip from Lorain to load up on cheap, fresh produce, quality meats and specialty items at the market. That hasn't changed. It continues to claim a place among the best public markets in North America.



But the surrounding area? Wow. Once a bleak monument to urban decay, the neighborhood has been resurrected as a trendy hot spot filled with an amazing collection of independent restaurants and bars offering great food and libations.



Count The Black Pig among the best in that department. In November, chef/owner Michael Nowak moved "The Pig" from a smaller location on West 25th St. to the space most recently occupied by Light Bistro. The old brick building was once home to Parker's, as in pioneering chef Parker Bosley, a prime mover in leading Cleveland into the forefront of modern city dining.



The Black Pig draws in visitors with the sophisticated-but-stripped down look and comfortable feel of many great old-neighborhood restaurants. Bare brick walls, a dark, cozy bar, tile floors and some wood and fabric accents are all the props required on this stage - where the food stars.



Many dishes on the menu sound fairly simple and rustic, but deliver more. Duck Confit ($13), an appetizer my wife and I sampled on our first visit, is a good example. Luscious, moist leg meat is shredded and wrapped in crisped skin. Stewed prunes on the side sound like every child's nightmare, but the sweetness and acidity pair well with the succulent meat. A "mi cuit" concentrates rich foie gras flavor in a kind of frozen custard dollop that gives the unexpected surprise of temperature contrast.



Porcini and Bacon Sausage ($19) delivered more surprises. The accompanying mushroom was prepared in a way that made it look like a spoonful of grainy mustard. A painted splash of purple was a nicely tart blueberry mustard.



And, by the way, the sausage was heavenly. Naturally big flavors of porcini mushrooms and bacon were scaled back to balance beautifully with earthy pork and subtle spices. The dish's only drawback was a fairly tough roasted onion.



Pork, naturally, is well represented on the menu. Go for the Choucroute Garni (the most expensive item, $24) to sample a variety of pig preparations. My favorite was the lacquered pork belly. Not overly fatty, the salty, moist, intensely flavored meat disappeared quickly. Another excellent sausage; fork-tender, pink tenderloin; and a slice of roast together completed the meat offering.



The pork was served with mashed potatoes, roasted carrots and wonderfully crisp fermented red cabbage, with pungent flavors and a touch of pepper heat creating something of a hybrid of sauerkraut and kimchi.



Other favorite dishes:

- The super-crunchy Winter Vegetable Salad ($8) made with matchstick slices of kohlrabi, beets and apples tossed with an herbal Green Goddess dressing made from pureed avocados.

- Cappallacci Pasta ($10) with a satiny sauce and whimsical wizard-hat shaped pasta.

- A masterfully-prepared Charcuterie board with a half-dozen cured meats, sausages and pates.

- The Banh Mi ($12) sandwich, satisfying and loaded with pork belly, pate, chicken liver mousse and slaw.



For dessert, don't miss the intensely-flavored Chocolate Truffles ($9) accompanied by a white chocolate mousse and crushed cookies reminiscent of Oreos.



If custom cocktails float your boat, The Black Pig doesn't take a back seat to many Cleveland watering holes. If you are familiar with more than half the ingredients listed on this dazzling drink menu, you are spending too much time in bars. And you couldn't pick a better neighborhood to do it in.

- Bob Migra is a free-lance writer in Westlake.

TASTE BITES: The Black Pig

Address: 2801 Bridge Street (Ohio City), Cleveland

Online: theblackpigcleveland.com

Phone: 216-862-7551.



Hours: 4 p.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday; 4 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday; 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Saturday; 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday. Brunch served Saturday and Sunday. Closed Monday.



Prices: Appetizers and salads, $8-$16. Sandwiches and entrees, $12-$24. Dessert, $9.



Reservations: Accepted.



Credit cards: All major.



Kids: No kids menu, but the kitchen will accommodate requests. Favorites include pasta with marinara and mini burgers.



Cuisine: Modern American with influences ranging from French to Italian and Asian.



Bar Service: Full service, with a great selection of custom cocktails.



Accessibility: Fully accessible.



Grade: * * *



