ill you'd like to choose.If some of the pieces (like the harness control arms) don't print in the orientation I provide (they do for me on my Afinia H479) then feel free to rotate them to any other orientation that works.The file name indicates the color I recommend for the standard AT Yellow version. If the file has an "x2" or "x any number" at the end, it is intended to be printed multiple times depending on that number.You can also print this jetpack in any color scheme you like. One option would be a black body, silver harness arms, with yellow or red engine vents for a night mission or "stealth" version.I have only used ABS to print this.Some gluing will be required to attach pieces. I usually use a clear binary epoxy. You can also use superglue or other acceptable methods for gluing ABS. (You may want to look up mixing acetone with the ABS for a weld-strong bond. I have not tried this, but I hope to soon.)Three 4x3/4 wood screws will be needed to assemble the body.1) Fit the thumbwheel into the groove of the body front section (the bigger half with the slot for the wheel.)2) Slide an engine shaft in from either side, rotate it until the square hole aligns with the square nub on the wheel, and snap it firmly to the thumbwheel (note, it will snap into place very strongly.)3) Place the lower harness arms into the hinge cuffs of the front body part, (near the bottom).4) As you put the two body parts together, ensure the lower harness arms fit into both pairs of hinge cuffs snugly.5) Put the cushion in place and screw the body together with three 4x3/4 wood screws (preferably black, but any will do).6) Slip the harness into the two holes in the body front piece near the top. They should fit snugly, but swing freely.7) Carefully snap the harness control arm (by the cuff aperture) s to the straight "bottom" length of the harness. (If you are not careful, you can snap the cuff aperture and have to print another. Lucky you have a 3D printer!)8) Slip the joysticks onto the harness arms. (Do not rotate these all the way around. The curvature of the arm/joystick connection may cause the arms to break. Again, luckily you can quickly reprint one, but hey, let's not have to, ok?)9) The engine braces and hub connect together with friction. It takes some practice. Put one brace in place, then the hub. Then fit a second brace in place and hold. (Gluing might be a good idea here.) Then the final (third) brace should be fitted into the hub first, then slid into place from the bottom of the engine into its divot. Like I said, this may take practice. But once it's in, it's highly satisfying.10) Glue the hub vanes into the circle of each hub.11) Glue the vents into their grooves. There is only one way for each to go. It won't be hard to figure out.12) There is a small circle above the thumbwheel for you to apply a sticker or logo or other nice decorative detail.13) Then you can snap the engine housings into the engine shafts for flight, or snap the hubs onto the shafts for carrying/storage.14) Fold the lower arms in until they cross, swing the harness down, and the harness control arms up for the most compact form.15) To put on a 12" figure, simply swing the lower harness arms out, the harness up, put the figure in place, swing the overhead harness down, the lower arms in, and (carefully!) snap the lower arms onto the harness in the grooved spaces provided.16) To remove, very carefully snap the lower harness arms off the harness and swing the harness up, freeing your pilot.17) Have fun. Don't forget to make engine noises when you're playing. (Even though the Dixon Engine is very quiet...)