UPDATE!

First I would like to give credit to Gummo for doing the wiring job, if it wasn’t for him; I’m sure none of this would have been possible. The wiring job seemed really difficult and I got lost as he was explaining things to me in person at CEO about the process it took.

All pictures are contained within spoilers.

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Non-Analog Arcade Stick

This was the one I competed with at CEO. The gamecube padhack is housed in a qanba q1 I had already owned and I upgraded the parts to sanwa at CEO. The analog version currently lacks a case because the LS-64 is too big to mount in any existing case I have, I have to get a case custom made for it.

Top view - shows button layout. Ignore the button names on the default qanba artwork.

4 orange buttons = A, L, Y, B (from bottom to right)

4 yellow buttons = c-stick buttons (up, down, left, and right)

green button = “shift” button. (See video below)

https://youtu.be/WnK5RJbAg10

Demonstration was done via Dolphin emulator because I don’t own any nintendo consoles, however the shift button on the arcade stick works the same way on console as it does in Dolphin emulator. Whenever the shift button (green button) is NOT pressed, the joystick is 100% engaged (acting as the left analog stick). Whenever the shift button IS pressed, the joystick is x% engaged. I can I open the stick and adjust the percentage (in every direction) if I’d like but I currently have it set to 40%. I plan to raise it but need to do more testing to find what will be appropriate. The shift button is what allows me to walk/run, and do tilt attacks so it was an integral part of this build since this stick lacks an analog joystick.

If you look to the left of the stick (in the video), you can see a gamecube-PC adapter, this is needed so I can use the stick on the computer since the stick now lacks a usb cable and now natively uses a gamecube cable (since there’s a gamecube PCB inside it).

Due to the gamecube PCB inside, Gummo had to dremel off a piece of the interior structure of the case so the case could close. The piece that was removed served no vital part of the structure of the case, it was just a piece that allowed the qanba q1 to be mounted with table clamps. We covered the hole with black electric tape.

Now for the part that every one wants to see… the guts!

http://i.imgur.com/tKTY6un.jpg

I highlighted 3 unique areas of the insides (see spoiler below).

Red = screw terminals which is where the buttons and everything are connected to. This allows solderless removal/addition of buttons since currently not every button is mapped to the stick because I currently lack enough buttons on the stick.

Green = Trigger potentiometer. This is a slider that is normally attached to the gamecube controller’s trigger, sliding this allows me to set whatever % I’d like for the light shield button. Currently the stick lacks a light shield button and only has a hard shield button. This will change once I get a new case/plexi with enough button holes.

Blue = 4 potentiometers that allow me to adjust how much % the “shift” button will change the joystick to. Each pot controls one direction of the joystick. You just take a small flathead screw driver and turn them, it’s pretty simple. However, they will turn forever so I hooked up the arcade stick to a computer to know how much % I’m getting when I’m turning them.

I also included close-up’s of the pcb.

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Analog Arcade Stick

This is the stick that will use the LS-64. Because this one lacks a case, I can only show you the wired PCB, buttons, and joystick (LS-64).

I’m very excited to get this one ready to play. I’m going to have a hard time mounting the joystick and I’m going to PM Per from Akishop to see if he has any documents about the LS-64 that would have more the dimensions on the stick, or possibly mounting instructions. If anything, I could just tupperware it or use a wooden box.

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I plan to make a video showcasing how I use the stick to play the game as well as perform various tech skill. I designed the button layout to accomodate all the game’s advanced techniques in a ergonomic hand position. I’m planning to change position of the green button and the down c-stick button (bottom button that was added) to make the layout a little bit more simple. The button layout wasn’t originally designed with the shift button in mind, so I think switching the location of the shift button will allow a more ergonomic feel. Plus, it would allow you access to all the buttons still if you just hit shift with your thumb so you can continue playing with your other fingers.

Thats all for now, expect some videos of the stick in action within the week. I’m open to all questions and requests regarding video making.

Reposting video of the stick in action at CEO:

