Montana climbers reach Nepal mountain summit

A Montana climbing expedition successfully delivered necessities to earthquake victims in Nepal, and two members conquered a 22,349-foot mountain along the way, raising a Montana flag at the top.

“Climbing Ama Dablam was one of the most exciting and challenging events of my life,” Ben Darce posted on Facebook. “So happy to have made the summit with one of my best friends, Kent Lockman.”

Darce and Lockman, both of East Glacier Park, reached the summit of Ama Dablam, one of the most spectacular mountains in the world, on Nov. 7, successfully making dangerous traverses on ice with tremendous exposure at high elevations.

Darce suffered frostbite on one of his big toes. He is recovering in Nepal, and not expected to lose the toe.

The two men were part of a group of Montanans that traveled to the south-central Asia country with the purpose of delivering winter coats, hats and gloves following an 7.8-magnitude earthquake in April that killed more than 9,000 people.

On that count, the trip also was a success.

Team members carried full packs of coats, hats and gloves to the remote village of Thame, which had severe damage to about 90 percent of its homes from the earthquake, said Great Falls native Ryan Hollow, who arranged the trip to the Khumbu region, which is home to Mt. Everest.

The crew had extra-large and medium sized coats that were given to students from the 5th through 8th grade, but Hollow was disappointed he did not have enough coats for the younger students.

“The experience was very humbling,” said Hollow, describing residents as some of the hardiest, most resilient mountain people on earth.

The day they visited, the school was being re-built.

Hollow fund-raised $3,000 and the money was used to purchase 30 coats at cost from Black Diamond Equipment, which makes outdoor clothing, and Montana business owner Randall Crone sponsored the trip with firefighter pack and duffle bags to haul climbing gear and donated goods to Nepal.

They were accompanied by Mingma Sherpa, a guide with Climbalaya, a Kathmandu-based company that hauled the crew’s gear into the base camp.

Team members provided regular updates of their journey via text messages to Hollow’s father, Dan Hollow of Great Falls, and also posted information and photos on Facebook.

Ama Dablam is part of the Himalaya range in eastern Nepal.

On the trek up the mountain, the Montana crew ran into some rock stars of the climbing world.

One was Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita.

Her mountaineering exploits and humanitarian and rehabilitation efforts following the April earthquake earned her a nomination for the prestigious National Geographic People’s Choice Adventurer of the Year 2016 award.

Another was Bill Burke, the oldest American to summit Everest.

Team members also met Brent Bishop from Bozeman, who was guiding a team. Bishop is the son of Barry Bishop, an American who was on the team that first climbed Ama Dablam in 1961 and part of the first expedition to climb Everest in 1963.

The Montana team also included Catherine McElligott of Choteau, Ryan Hollow’s girlfriend, and Jackson George of Whitefish.

Ama Dablam is known as one of the most impressive mountains in the world, not for its altitude, but for its beauty, aesthetics and exposure encountered high on its flanks, according to summitpost.org.

The third most popular Himalayan peak for permitted expeditions, it dominates the eastern sky for those trekking to the base camp of Mt. Everest, the world’s largest mountain, which is 29,025 feet.

By comparison, the 12,807-foot Granite Peak in the Absoroka-Beartooth Wilderness is the highest peak in Montana.

Part of the climb is Class 5 with a move or two of 5.7 requiring dangerous traverses on ice with tremendous exposure, and technical rock climbing at high altitude. Class 5, commonly called free climbing, requires rope and specialized equipment to prevent falls. It’s one class below Class 6, which is rock so sheer ascent by hands and feet is impossible.

Hollow decided not to attempt the summit to Ama Dablam, on the advice of a French doctor. At the time, he had a chest cold.

But he and Jackson hauled loads of food and gear to Camp 1, which sits at an elevation of 18,500 feet, to support Darce and Lockman.

Climbers of Ama Dablam stay at four camps as they ascend the mountain.

Camp 2 has room for only a handful of tents, which look almost as if they are positioned on the head of needle.

Because of the cramped quarters, Darce and Lockman each slept in an open bivy, a small waterproof shelter, on a ledge at an elevation of 20,000 feet, the same height as the summit of Mt. Denali in Alaska.

At midnight on Friday, Nov. 6, the pair departed Camp 2 and head for the summit.

It was cold and windy.

Hollow and George, a field representative for the Montana Wilderness Society, were watching from below from Camp 1, following the progress of Darce and Kockman by the glimmer of their headlamps.

About five hours later, at 5 a.m., the pair of Montana climbers reach Camp 3 just below Damblam, a hanging glacier.

To prepare for the final push on a very steep glacial ice and permanent snowpack, they took shelter in an empty tent, resting for a few hours and melting snow for water.

They reached the summit at noon Saturday.

There are 14 mountains in the world above 26,240 feet. Darce and Lockman could see seven, including Mt. Everest. They raised a Montana flag and took a photo.

“It would not have been possible without the support of many other friends along the way,” Lockman said. “Thanks to everyone who helped make this trip possible.”

After descending the mountain and arriving at base camp, Lockman and Darce asked for beer, whiskey, a Coke, milk tea, and, finally, some food.

Montana’s highest point

The 12,807-foot Granite Peak in the Absoroka-Beartooth Wilderness is the highest peak on Montana. The highest point in Glacier National Park is the 10,479-foot Mt. Cleveland.