This is a long step with lots of pictures.



You will need a 5 inch long piece of steel 1 inch by 1/8 inch bar stock. as a base. You can use a slightly longer piece if you have it and I will explain this part later.



You will need 2 6 inch 5/16 bolts and a 8 inch 5/16 bolt that is threaded the full length.



You will also need 11 5/16 nuts.



Begin by drilling out 8 of the nuts with a 5/16 bit to remove the threads. Grind one flat on 4 of the drilled nuts slightly.

place 3 of the drilled nuts on the 6 inch bolts then thread on a regular nut fully.

Place 2 of the drilled nuts on 8 inch bolt.



Lay the bolts as shown on the steel bar stock and braze the 6 end nuts to the steel bar. the alignment of the bolts is critical at must be as parallel as possible. make sure that the ground part of the 2 center nuts on the 6 inch bolts is facing toward the plate.

Do not braze the 4 drilled nuts on the 6 inch bolts as these need to move freely, these will be called slide nuts later.



Remove the 8 inch bolt.

grind one face of a 5/16 nut slightly then braze this nut in the center a square piece of steel bar stock keeping the face of the nut parallel with on edge and the ground flat opposite to the plate



place this small plate nut side down in the center of the previously brazed piece then feed the 8 inch bolt back into the piece threading it through the nut on the smaller piece. make sure that extended threads of the center bolt are towards the right. This is critical for use later.



Position the upper piece in the center of the 6 inch bolts then move the slide nuts to the corners of the 1 inch piece and carefully braze them to the 1 inch plate making sure that they do not get brazed to the bolts.



Test that the small plate moves freely along the 5/16 slide bolts. It may be a little tight but it will work in and move freely as long as your slide bolts are parallel. You may have to tap the center bolt with a hammer to break any slag off of the bolts.



The heads of the 6 inch bolts were not brazed in place to allow for a little play if the slide bolts were not completely parallel.



Cut the ends off of the 6 inch bolts but not the 8 inch bolt. The 8 inch bolt is an adjuster bolt.



This whole process needs to be repeated using 1/4 inch bolts.

You will need 6 slide nuts, two 2 1/4 inch bolts and one 3 inch bolt that is threaded the whole way.



Make the 1/4 inch slide nuts the same way as before using a 1/4 inch drill bit. Grind one flat on 4 of the drilled nuts slightly.

place 2 slide nuts on each 2 1/4 inch bolt and thread a regular nut the whole way on.



Place 2 slide nuts with the ground flat on the 3 inch bolt



Align the bolts on the upper plate at a right angle to the 5/16 inch slides. Make sure that the slide nuts have the ground flat facing downward. Carefully braze the 6 end nuts in place leaving the slide nuts free.



Remove the center bolt and grind the head round.



Cut the slide bolts off flush to the brazed nuts.



Place a threaded nut on the center between the 1/4 inch slides. thread the center bolt through the nut with the threads extending towards you with the lower adjuster bolt towards the right.. this is your upper adjuster bolt.



Take a small piece of the bar stock that is as long as the slide bolts, this is the upper plate. Drill and counter bore the exact center of the upper plate. Place the plate on the center of the upper slide. Align the slide nuts so that they are about 1/4 inch apart in along the center of the upper plate edge.



Braze the center nut through eh counter bore hole. Make sure that is is brazed in place and the threaded adjuster moves freely. Then braze the slide nuts in place. Test for freedom of operation.



Finish the upper plate bu brazing 4 small headed 10-24 1 inch bolts to the corners, threaded side up.



The clamp is a small piece of aluminum that has 4 holes drilled in the top. This is held in place with standard 10-24 nuts. The tool is clamped in place between the upper plate and the upper clamp.



The adjuster bolts will need to be locked in place firmly but not binding. I used a lock nut and threaded rod joiner for the lower adjuster. This was drilled and pinned in place. I did not have a roll pin so I used a small nail cut and peened in place. The upper adjuster had 3 standard nuts installed on the threads then brazed in place.



As a final step I brazed 4 fender washers to the bottom plate for clamping to the lathe. It is held in place with standard t-nuts.



I primed and painted it flat black