When I started my daily journalism career on the Bloomington (Illinois) Pantagraph in 1973, a local shrine was the very first Steak ‘n Shake restaurant in the U.S., a place that had once been a gas station and then became a hit.

I can remember stopping for an occasional burger and shake, thinking I had found a great bargain. In the world of high calories, it was the holy of holies. (Early on, Steak ‘n Shake vouched for its credibility by grinding real steaks before customers.)

All these years later, with a menu expanded to salads, Steak ‘n Shake has followed me west. The company has plans to open its first Bay Area eatery at 501 E. Campbell Ave. in Campbell, a couple of blocks east of downtown on the way to the Pruneyard.

But maybe I shouldn’t jump to conclusions. The plans for a new Steak ‘n Shake in the Lloyd Square, in a building that once housed Tread Bikes, has engendered as fierce a land-use controversy as I’ve seen recently.

In advance of a council meeting on Oct. 20 that will consider the project, more than 600 people have signed a petition asking that Steak ‘n Shake choose a different site. The problems? The usual unholy trinity of traffic, parking and noise.

I’m going to outline the pros and cons of this one — there are decent arguments on each side — and then tell you where I stand at the end of this piece.

Reflects success

At heart, the Steak ‘n Shake battle reflects downtown Campbell’s success. Unlike San Jose, which put more than $2 billion into its downtown, Campbell focused primarily on realigning its streets. A lively combination of shops and restaurants followed.

Now that boom is pushing eastward, where the city has plans for shops and apartments that would be as high as three or four stories. The Steak ‘n Shake, with seating for 118 customers, would be at the corner of Foote Street and Campbell Avenue, not far from the light rail line.

The problem is that the area to the north is filled with modest family houses. And the people who live there detest the idea of more traffic and cars. It is already hard to turn onto Campbell Avenue from Page Street, the funnel for much of the traffic.

Jodie Cee, a resident who has organized the opposition through social media, says city authorities “are just not listening at all.

“They’re putting in a very large establishment, and it’s in a semi-residential neighborhood right now,” Cee said. “They’re just being reckless.”

The opponents point out that the planning commission approved a plan that is short 33 parking spaces under city regulations. The critics enlisted a thoughtful report by a traffic engineer who says city planners did not take a complete look at the backup from the plan.

The neighbors have even raised questions about the number of calories in a Steak ‘n Shake burger (770 in a grilled cheese steakburger), suggesting the city would be better off with a healthier place.

The case in favor

So what’s the argument for Steak ‘n Shake? Before the planning commission, planner Daniel Fama pointed out that this section of Campbell is moving more toward a pedestrian zone rather than one that emphasizes cars. If Steak ‘n Shake were two blocks to the west in downtown, it would not have to meet the parking requirements.

Under the city’s long-range plans, the Lloyd Square could be developed for 72 units of housing and as much as 10,000 square feet of shops. And the 33 missing parking spots? City authorities say the center has underused slots that can handle much of the overflow.

During last month’s hearing, planning commissioner Phil Reynolds, a pro-development voice, asked rhetorically whether residents near Campbell Avenue should expect more noise and traffic. The answer, naturally, was yes.

Columnist’s take

Finally, where do I stand? I’m for Steak ‘n Shake, with a couple of provisos. I think the neighbors make a fair point about traffic. And the city should take very seriously the residents’ plea for a new traffic light at Page and East Campbell.

But some change, particularly in a lively place like downtown Campbell, is inevitable. For the majority of folks, Steak ‘n Shake will not be an outrage in its setting. And there are some benefits. It offers a very good cheeseburger.

Contact Scott Herhold at 408-275-0917 or sherhold@mercurynews.com. Twitter.com/scottherhold.