Yet there is nuance hidden between Svalbard's theatrical landscapes and legends. Humanity is a relatively recent intervention here and consequently there is no framework of culture, art or ancient history from which to hang my impressions. It is a place of passage rather than of permanence - it is literally forbidden by law to be born or to die here, as there are no hospitals or burial grounds - and its monochromatic vistas with their slate-grey seas, powdery mountains and smudges of cloud suggest a withholding, as well as perhaps an invitation. It's a place that can make or break you, and consequently an intoxicating challenge to the pioneer spirit.

www.benjaminhardman.com | @benjaminhardman