Lie returned to his joke about Oslo being “barbarian,” and explained that although Norway boasts Henrik Ibsen, Edvard Munch and the best-selling thriller writer Jo Nesbo as native sons, it has been slower than Sweden or Denmark to put itself center-stage culturally. “Whenever there’s a discussion about a new museum for Edvard Munch, who is probably the best thing we have, there’s a lot of debate about how much to spend,” he said, raising an eyebrow. “Whereas if Norway’s going to have another winter Olympics, we don’t talk so much about price.”

The couple then spoke about the effect on the city of last July’s events, when a bomb in the government quarter and a gunman on a nearby island left 77 dead.

Lie said, “I think the civic pride of people from Oslo is a little more subtle than that of people from other cities.” Steiro went on: “But after this very dramatic incident in the summer, the patriotism of Oslo was really forceful.” A rose parade was organized on Facebook, and more than 100,000 people turned out, without security, holding flowers. “It was very important to show that we were going to respond to this with more love, more openness and more democracy,” Lie said.

The expansion that was already under way then has become an earnest act of retaliation. The Oslo Opera House, which opened in 2008 and was designed by Snohetta, the firm in charge of the 9/11 Memorial Museum pavilion in Manhattan, is expected to have something of a “Bilbao effect.” All around it are construction sites that will become condominiums, office buildings, university buildings, a museum and a library — all part of a plan to turn the city toward the water and to try, as Steiro explained, “to give cultural status to a place that used to be more industrial.” Not that Oslo doesn’t have other charms: a 20-minute metro ride will take you cross-country skiing, and a quick ferry trip across the fjord will get you to the beach. “There’s a lot to do here,” Lie said, “which makes it a very good city to live in, and raise children.”

As for children, there are plans — part of what Steiro endearingly termed their “multi-happening life.” The couple are engaged in so many different things that they are sometimes frustrated or uncertain. But overall, they like it that way, and it seems in keeping with the changing nature of Oslo itself. “Maybe our lives are going to be like this forever,” Steiro said. “We’ll never ‘end up’ as anything, we’ll just continue doing stuff in between.” Maybe, like a city, they’ll always be in the act of becoming.

ESSENTIALS • OSLO

Hotels Grand Hotel Open since 1874, this deluxe landmark plays host to Nobel laureates every December. Karl Johans Gate 31; 011-47-23-21-20-00; doubles from about $285. Hotel Continental As stately as the Grand — and with Munch lithographs. Stortingsgaten 24/26; 011-47-22-82-40-00; doubles from $290.

RESTAURANTS, BARS AND CAFES

Apent Bakeri The best bread in town. Maridalsveien 87; 011-47-22-04-96-67. Maaemo Oslo’s answer to Noma in Copenhagen, with two Michelin stars. Schweigaards gate 15b; 011-47-91-99-48-05. Oscarsgate Scandinavian cuisine with a French twist and one Michelin star. Inngang Pilestredet 63; 011-47-22-46-59-06. Ylajali A modern version of French gourmet cuisine, named after a character in the Knut Hamsun novel “Hunger” who lives above the restaurant. St. Olavs Plass 2; 011-47-22-20-64-86. Parkteatret A former cinema, now music club with a great bar. Olaf Ryes plass 11; 011-47-22-35-63-00. The Villa A sweaty, popular house club in the basement of a hipster burger joint. Mollergata 23-25; 011-47-93-25-57-45. Tim Wendelboe The award-winning roaster’s namesake shop and training center draws coffee pilgrims from around the world. Grunersgate 1; 011-47-40-00-40-62.

ACTIVITIES

Birkelunden flea market A terrific outdoor market for vintage clothing and other finds. Birkelunden Park, in the Grunerlokka area; Sundays, 12 p.m. to 8 p.m or sundown. Nordmarka A skiing area reachable by the metro where, in winter, you can hole up in quaint, cozy cabins. Nordmarka; visitoslo.com. Langoyene, Hovedoya and Gressholmen Take the ferry from Vippetangen to these three islands for great swimming in the Oslo Fjord. visitoslo.com. The Viking Ship Museum Houses whole, ninth-century ships discovered in tombs around the fjord. Aveny 35; 011-47-22-13-52-80; khm.uio.no.