Agu Ramen is on fast-track expansion in Houston Chef/owner is thinking big with fast-track expansion of outposts

The Original Kotteri Tonkotsu Ramen & Hot Mess boasts an extra-thick broth. The Original Kotteri Tonkotsu Ramen & Hot Mess boasts an extra-thick broth. Photo: James Nielsen, Staff Photo: James Nielsen, Staff Image 1 of / 12 Caption Close Agu Ramen is on fast-track expansion in Houston 1 / 12 Back to Gallery

THE CONCEPT

After opening five Agu Ramen restaurants in Hawaii, chef/owner Hisashi Uehara decided his next big expansion would be in Houston, even though business advisers suggested both Austin and Dallas over the Bayou City.

Uehara thinks big: He's opened three stores in Houston in a matter of months and has three more on the way in Sugar Land, Nassau Bay and Katy. And he's looking for spots in the Med Center and The Woodlands. His concept is simple: ramen bowls, a few appetizers and donburi and poke bowls, and a smattering of Hawaiian specialties served in a casual setting.

THE SPACE

Exposed brick and rough-hewn wood decorate the spare, minimalist restaurants. His newest store on Washington promises to be an interesting redo of the former Christian's Tailgate roadhouse. Once Uehara's initial quick expansion in Houston is completed, he wants to open the city's first "stand-up ramen bar" - a stall-like concept at which ramen is consumed in a matter of minutes while standing up.

THE FOOD

The star of the show is his tonkotsu pork ramen. The broth is a 24-hour process; pork bones are boiled until they release their creamy marrow.

In some ramen bowls he achieves extra creaminess by adding a handful of snowlike Parmesan cheese. It's unusual but delicious, he said.

Uehara is proud that he sources many ingredients - seaweed, sausage, pickled cabbage, soy sauce, and even salt and pepper - directly from Japan. He even installed special water softeners in his central commissary that change the texture of the water used to make his ramen broths.

THE DRINKS

Beer and wine only at the Eldridge store; a full bar, with selections of Japanese beer and whiskey, is coming to the Westheimer and Washington locations.

THE WORD

"At first, they thought it was a joke," Uehara said of the reaction from his staff and friends when he said he wanted to expand his business to Houston.

"Then I said, 'Adios.' "

Uehara said he has now permanently moved to H-town and is looking forward to being an in-the-know Houstonian.

ONE MORE THING

Because Uehara refuses to do takeout - ramen must be eaten immediately and does not travel well, he says - he said he's earned the name "ramen Nazi," as in the strict, unyielding Soup Nazi from "Seinfeld."

THE DETAILS

1809 Eldridge Parkway, Suite 108 (open daily from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.); 9301 Westheimer (open daily 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.); 7340 Washington (open daily from 11 a.m. to midnight); aguramen.com