Philly Is Finally Becoming a Barbecue Town

Barbecue has never really been Philly’s thing. But perhaps that’s changing. We caught up with three new pitmasters, who take their ’cue seriously.

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Bok, 821 Dudley Street, East Passyunk

Pitmaster: Eric Daelhousen

BBQ style: All kinds

Equipment: Custom-designed offset smoker by Gator Pit of Texas, made in Houston.

Wood: White oak (from New Jersey)

Known for: Beef n’ Cheddar Melt

How it’s made: The brisket is from Passio Prime (located inside the restaurant) and gets a 24-hour rub (“with some special spices”) before being smoked for up to 18 hours. Daelhousen slices the product to order and drapes it atop a Machine Shop Boulangerie bun with cheddar, pickled onions, and a house creamy horseradish sauce.

1703 South 11th Street, East Passyunk

Pitmaster: Michael Strauss

BBQ style: All kinds

Equipment: J&R Manufacturing’s Little Red Smokehouse, which set him back $24,000.

Wood: Mix of white and red oak (from Pennsylvania), which, says Strauss, “burns hot and clean.”

Known for: Texas-style brisket

How it’s made: Smoked for at least nine hours, then rested for about four hours — “The longer the rest, the better,” says Strauss. Pros know to ask for the “burnt ends” (the juicy, flavor-packed tail end of the brisket).

990 Spring Garden Street, Callowhill (coming soon)

Pitmaster: Chad Rosenthal

BBQ style: Leans Memphis

Equipment: Southern Pride out of Tennessee

Wood: Hickory, when it’s available. “It’s stronger and less sweet than oak,” says Rosenthal. “I like my wood like I like my whiskey — with a bite.”

Known for: St. Louis pork ribs

How it’s made: Pork spare ribs sit for two days in a dry rub made from a proprietary blend of 15 spices, then are smoked for four hours, painted with just a bit of BBQ sauce (“for a little caramelization”), and finished on a charcoal grill.

Published as “BBQ Town” in the March 2019 issue of Philadelphia magazine.