This is by far the most daunting part of the mod as well as the part with the most variation to it. Depending on the LCD you have the power lines for the display driver will vary.

You begin by grabbing your AC to DC power board and your display driver board. They may be attached together or you may have disconnected them. There are a couple of ways to complete this step but all of them involve some electrical know-how. If you don't know much about electronics (like soldering, splicing wires, stripping wires, voltages) I highly suggest familiarizing yourself with basic techniques and terminology.

CAUTION 120V 60 HZ AC POWER IS VERY DANGEROUS TO HUMANS AND YOU WILL BE WORKING WITH AND EXPOSED AC POWER BOARD

In this case, it's easy to avoid shocking yourself just be vigilant about where things are.

LCDs run on 5v DC power with the LEDs running on 12v or the cold cathode fluorescent lamps in older monitors running on 12/24/100V. USB ports can provide 5V at .5A for USB 2.0 or .9A for 3.0

Once you have the circuits, I found the easiest way to do this is to cut all the wires that lead to the display driver board. cut them closer to the power board as you will need a bit of wire length for soldering. Strip all the wires so there is a decent amount of exposed wire to splice.

Plug in your power board and short the pin with a jumper cable till the LED assembly turns on. You will need LEDs to see through your screen to tell if it's working. This step is optional as you can find any other brighter light source to use. an example might be the flashlight on your cellphone.

Make sure you have reinstalled the ribbon cable from the display driver to the actual LCD display

The first time I did this next step I tried a sort of bomb defusal method where you one by one cut wires until the screen stops working. problem is if you cut one of the two wires needed early on it becomes exponentially more difficult. I then tried using a DMM to measure the voltages across wires. For this LCD the 5v wire is clearly marked red, this wasn't the case for every LCD I tried. Once I found a few wires that measured 5v I focused on those wires with the following method.

Cut the USB 5V power cord semi-near the barrel jack connector and strip insulation from the wire. Find some sort of phone charger block to plug the USB into. DO NOT PLUG INTO YOUR PC USB PORT YET. CURRENT SPIKES FROM THIS METHOD CAN FRY THE USB PORT. Take the red lead from the USB and splice it with the red wire from the display driver. take the black lead from the USB and splice it with one of the black wires you measured 5V on. Wait to see if the display turns on (This is where you will need a light source I mentioned earlier). when you see the display turn on that is the wire you need on your connector. Make a note of this wire. For those of you using the same monitor, this wire is the 3rd black wire starting on the side with the red wire.

Take a razor blade or anything with a small edge and pry the little white tabs up on the connector piece. From here you can pull on the wire and it will slide out. This way you can get rid of all those unnecessary wires on your power connector.

Cut some more length off the USB chord as the wire doesn't have to travel far you shouldn't need more than 1-1.5 ft cord, This will also give you some wire for soldering the LEDs later. From here you have a couple of options you can either solder the wires from the connector to the USB power chord wires or you can add a barrel jack on the connector and resolder the other barrel jack connector to the USB creating shorter USB chord exactly like what you began with. This will allow you to disconnect the power from the display driver easier.