WHEN I don’t know what to make for dinner, I caramelize onions. In the 20 minutes it takes for them to soften and brown, I forage for ingredients and conjure up a plan.

The sweet, golden onions can accommodate whatever I throw at them; they’re perfect as a base for soups, stews and sautés. But usually, I just toss in an assortment of quick-cooking vegetables (like greens, tomatoes or zucchini) and simmer the whole thing down into what my family fondly calls “vegetable mush.” It is especially nice with a mound of buttery polenta and a side of some seared protein matter  boneless chicken, fish or meat.

I’ve been making variations of this dish for years, and it is always extremely satisfying, though never, to tell the truth, terribly exciting.

But I was inspired when I brought home an exuberant bunch of fennel from the farmers’ market. The fronds were particularly perky and too unwieldy for the refrigerator.