× Expand Photo by Ben McKeown Jhol-style momos

Kathmandu Kitchen, 1275 NW Maynard Rd, Cary, 919-244-2631, kathmandukitchencary.com

As we learned last week, comfort food conjures up different dishes for everyone, but for me, dumplings have the singular ability to console me after a rough day or to celebrate a good one. I love them all, but have an affinity for my newest discovery, momos. Specifically, those from Kathmandu Kitchen, a Nepalese restaurant that opened in Cary in August. Momos are made with a basic noodle-dough wrapper, similar in taste though thicker than that of Japanese gyoza or Chinese wontons, and envelop a vegetable- or chicken-based filling. There are two types of momos at Kathmandu Kitchen; one style is served steamed with accompanying dipping sauces, the other jhol-style, where the dumplings are submerged in a chutney-based broth.

But don’t just take my word for it. These momos are so much like the real deal, my Nepalese friend volunteered her Friday nights during the restaurant’s soft launch in exchange for unlimited momos, just like the ones her mom used to make.

Vibe: Kathmandu Kitchen appears nondescript at first glance, but inside its mustard yellow walls, one of the gracious owners, Tripti Swar, Binod Bhatta, or KN Sharma, is likely to welcome you into the homey space. Pull up a black wooden chair at one of the granite tables; you’re bound to see Nepalese families catching up over bowls of curries and occasionally foregoing conversation altogether to gleefully slurp jhol momos. The gently-priced but solid house cocktails slow the pace of a hectic day; while sipping, I imagine the chef standing behind the kitchen curtain making momos, methodically fastening each noodle wrapper around its filling.

Menu: The broad menu contains both Nepalese classics and dishes that span the Himalayan region. The house specialties include jhol momos; classic curries such as shrimp Malabar and Himalayan vindaloo, redolent of freshly ground spices; and sizzling meats and cheeses from the tandoor oven. A plethora of vegetarian dishes, such as jackfruit biryani or Himalayan vegetable, pepper the menu.

What to order: Momos. And lots of them. Take advantage of the variety, and order at least one of each of the two styles. They’re made-to-order and served as they’re ready, so don’t be surprised if they don’t arrive all at once. The classic, crescent-shaped momos are served on a pristine white platter, encircling two ramekins of sauces—tangy tomato and peppery curry—which add both pops of flavor and color. Resist the temptation to devour each dumpling in one bite, so you can break open the pockets with multiple nibbles, dipping them in both sauces and allowing the pungent spices to seep into the filling. While chicken jhol momos are shaped identically to their classic counterparts, vegetable jhol momos, which I’m partial to, resemble delicately knotted pouches. Enjoy this style with a spoon, rather than a fork, so you can slurp the accompanying warm broth.

Entreés from the tandoor oven will warm you to your core, even on the coldest of days. Add the duck tikka to your must-try list; it’s encrusted with spices, perfectly tender, and arrives on a sizzling skillet. Tandoori-fired breads, such as the garlic olive naan, are tailor-made for dipping into a steaming bowl of shrimp Malabar curry.

Price: Vegetable and chicken momos are $7 and $8, respectively. Appetizers, rice, and soup are $4 to $8. Tandoori specials, curries, and biryani are $10 to $18. Naan, paratha, and roti are $2 to $3; a bread sampler is $5.

Perfect for: Slaying dumpling cravings; a family-style or vegetarian-friendly feast; a belly- and soul-warming meal.

food@indyweek.com