Kalimon



Trad climber Ridgway, CO Aug 25, 2010 - 01:23pm PT Thanks Mark!



I am working on my solo aid technique and really appreciate your instruction . . . seems that there are lots of variables. My first effort last weekend was on the Aid Crack, aka "Morning Glory" (Free Version) at the Ophir Wall. I was using a clove hitch backed up with an overhand knot tie off loop and ended up taking a surprise 15 foot whipper when a wired stopper placement fractured off a chunk of rock on one side of the crack it was placed in. It all happened so quickly and I was caught fairly softly. The clove hitch was difficult to loosen after the impact force had tightened it though. So I have a few questions for your bad self:



1. What is your preferred belay device?



2. How many back up loops do you use?



3. What do you do to prevent the weight of the lead rope from pulling itself back down toward the anchor?



Thanks for your help and willingness to share the techniques you have been using.



Peace.



Greg