Description



This kit was our answer to all the DIY contraptions that use miscellaneous plumbing parts and various epoxies and sealants to make a leak free system. We've designed this from the ground up using 100% TIG welded 304 stainless steel. The heart of the system is the lower electrical enclosure which is based on 2" triclover flange. It allows for a wide open hole to make the electrical connections but also be reliably water tight. The most important part is the solidly welded ground lug that provides the important earth ground for safety.



What's included:



Main body consisting of the 2" TC canister with a long welded on vertical wire conduit. The top of the conduit has a 1/2" Female NPT bushing welded on and we also include a cord grip threaded in there.

2" TC x 1" NPS adapter for threading in the heating element of your choice. This adapter is fully custom and includes a groove for the sealing oring to sit tight. We also include the TC clamp and gasket.

Various electrical ring terminals and ground connection hardware. You'll need to crimp these terminals to the wiring yourself unless you add the labor charge.

A hanging clamp that will hold the HotRod against the sidewall of your pot and keep it from flopping over. This clamp is height adjustable as it is just a tension clip.

What is NOT included:



Wire

Element

Plug



We offer all these items on the website as well as a prewire labor charge if you'd like us to do that work. Alternatively we've created one or more prewired/preconfigured versions you can get in one click.



Options:

The only mods offered are whether the drop conduit is bent or not and how much of a bend it has. The height when left straight is about 27". With a 90 degree bend you lose about 5 inches of wall clearance and with 170 degrees you lose about 9" of wall clearance.



Wire Notes: The drop conduit ID is large enough for 12/3 (or 14/3) SJ style cord to pass through with or without the bend and without any mods to the cord. When using a higher wattage element like 4500 or 5500 watts, you'll be using 10/3 cable (unless your length is under 10 feet in which case it's possible to use the 12/3 SJEOOW cable we sell). If your element needs 10/3 cable, you will have to strip the external jacket off the cable, as well as remove the packing twine in order to fit the three internal insulated conductors through the conduit. It's not difficult to do when the tube is left straight. If you want to use 10/3 cable and still want us to bend it, you'll have to get our cable and use the drop down "pull and prewire" under the hot rod labor item.





When selecting an element, keep in mind that the Hot Rod's enclosure adds about 2.5 inches of horizontal depth to whatever length the element is.







This is the barebones kit version of our Hot Rod Heat StickThis kit was our answer to all the DIY contraptions that use miscellaneous plumbing parts and various epoxies and sealants to make a leak free system. We've designed this from the ground up using 100% TIG welded 304 stainless steel. The heart of the system is the lower electrical enclosure which is based on 2" triclover flange. It allows for a wide open hole to make the electrical connections but also be reliably water tight. The most important part is the solidly welded ground lug that provides the important earth ground for safety.WireElementPlugWe offer all these items on the website as well as a prewire labor charge if you'd like us to do that work. Alternatively we've created one or more prewired/preconfigured versions you can get in one click.The only mods offered are whether the drop conduit is bent or not and how much of a bend it has. The height when left straight is about 27". With a 90 degree bend you lose about 5 inches of wall clearance and with 170 degrees you lose about 9" of wall clearance.Wire Notes: The drop conduit ID is large enough for 12/3 (or 14/3) SJ style cord to pass through with or without the bend and without any mods to the cord. When using a higher wattage element like 4500 or 5500 watts, you'll be using 10/3 cable (unless your length is under 10 feet in which case it's possible to use the 12/3 SJEOOW cable we sell). If your element needs 10/3 cable, you will have to strip the external jacket off the cable, as well as remove the packing twine in order to fit the three internal insulated conductors through the conduit. It's not difficult to do when the tube is left straight. If you want to use 10/3 cable and still want us to bend it, you'll have to get our cable and use the drop down "pull and prewire" under the hot rod labor item.When selecting an element, keep in mind that the Hot Rod's enclosure adds about 2.5 inches of horizontal depth to whatever length the element is. Average Rating: 5 of 5 Total Reviews: 13 Click Here to Write a Review »