Merch is in like never before, and if you haven’t noticed, you’re not paying attention. We’re seeing major houses like Balenciaga mimic the aesthetics of political campaign gear, streetwear icons like Supreme riff on the logos of laundry detergent brands, and the rise of a booming new market for vintage music merch. And we’re not just talking hyped tees from huge rappers, here. With once-standard fare like vintage Grateful Dead tees from Liquid Blue now commanding haute couture prices, it’s time to take a closer look into tie-dyed world of deadhead culture—and clothing.

Which is why, during Dead & Company’s two-night stand at New York’s Citi Field, I took some time to wander the lots in search of interesting characters, embarrass myself with an assortment of half-baked dance moves, and try to figure out just how the Dead’s merch scene has managed to become a genuine force in the world of men’s style.

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Despite the untimely death of Jerry Garcia in 1995, the extensive catalogue of the Grateful Dead lives on in earnest—through the side projects of band members, obsessive cover bands, and the scholarly efforts of esteemed tape collectors. And now, in 2018, the music is being celebrated by the Grateful Dead’s latest incarnation, Dead & Company, fronted by the Dead’s purple polo-wearing rhythm guitarist Bob Weir along with lead guitarist John Mayer. Drummers Mickey Hart and Bill Kreutzmann are also on board for the ride, with Oteil Burbridge joining on bass and Jeff Chimenti playing keys.

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While the seemingly endless catalogue of live music has always been the primary focus of any true head, there’s an undeniably compelling merch scene that has attracted fashion-focused types and the previously uninitiated over the past few years. And the home of this scene is the lot outside the shows—affectionately referred to as Shakedown Street. Long before the show itself kicks off, you’ll find fans hanging out with tents and drinks, plus a bevy of vendors selling everything from grilled cheese to the headiest of tie-dye tees.

The sandwiches may be tasty, but it’s the merch that’s managed to achieve an almost mythic quality. It’s part of the culture, stretching back to the earliest days of the band. And that gear is now more available than ever thanks to the internet and social media. Instagram has become a sort of digital lot, with Dead-centric accounts catering to younger heads with an appetite for digital consumption. And, naturally, merch.

Of course, it bears mention that when we talk about “merch,” we’re talking about unlicensed merch—bootlegs, for lack of a better term. But these aren’t the kind of bootlegs trying to imitate the real thing on the cheap. Instead, what’s on offer is original, home-grown, small-batch gear, crafted passionately by true heads. And it shows—which goes a long way to explaining why the Dead has historically taken a relaxed stance in response to bootleggers. The thought process seems to be, “Well, their hearts are in the right place.”



An Online Ceramics T-shirt design. Courtesy

One of the brightest contemporary stars of the lot merch scene is an L.A.-based brand called Online Ceramics, the brainchild of bona fide deadheads Alix Ross and Elijah Funk. While still employing the traditional motifs of the Dead (think skeletons, butterflies, and roses), the duo have developed an otherworldly aesthetic all their own, reminiscent of early concert posters and the spirit of the tour experience. Their efforts haven’t gone unnoticed. In fact, they caught the attention of none other than John Mayer himself.



Mayer’s keen style eye is no secret. He’s obsessed with Hiroki Nakamura’s cult-favorite menswear brand Visvim, for one thing. He's also a sneakerhead and a collector of vintage and modern timepieces, to boot. But he really flexed his knowledge of niche Dead culture when he stepped out on stage wearing Online Ceramics hoodies and tees. He’s also vocally supported the work of Jeremy Dean, the Philadelphia-based artist, designer, and "hardcore archaeologist" who’s widely known (among those in the know) for his "Wonders of Black Flag" tees, which mash up iconography from the Dead and Black Flag.

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And this is where things get really interesting. Because all of a sudden, the bootleg stuff is becoming legit. Thanks to Mayer’s fandom, we’re now seeing the work of Online Ceramics on Dead & Company’s official merch (not to mention Mayer’s own tour merch). Jeremy Dean’s work has also popped up on official Dead & Company gear. And the latest guy to make the jump from the lot is another fixture of contemporary Dead culture, Ruben "Rubenowsky" Perez, whose cartoonish depiction of Dead & Company’s lineup can now be found on the band’s officially licensed tees.

Isaac Wingold

Thanks to the lot—and the digital lot—the true heads aren’t just making cool merch, they’re being brought into the fold. Is part of this the influence of hype, and the fact that psychedelic tees are having a moment in the broader culture of men’s style in general? Without a doubt. But for true deadheads, it’s not just about a hype cycle or a short-term fashion statement. It’s about a connection to the band—and the culture. "We’re constantly blown away by the love that's being shot around our world right now," Online Ceramics' Ross and Funk told me. "Beyond any attention or success, we genuinely feel kindness and inspiration from folks on a daily basis. It’s one of the most beautiful and unique anomalies, and it stems from the energy of the Grateful Dead."

Isaac Wingold Isaac Wingold is a writer and photographer from Toronto whose work covers everything from watch collecting to classic cars and fashion culture.

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