Fossa , scamorza , and Cloumage : Sounds like a law firm, but they’re actually the names of today’s coolest cheeses: 1) Fossa: Italian for “pit,” it refers to the place where this sheep’s-milk cheese is aged. It’s pungent and funky (in a good way), and an ideal partner for fruit and cured meats. Spotted in: Kohlrabi salad with hazelnuts and mint at Estela , NYC 2) Scamorza: An aged (and sometimes smoked) mozzarella-like cheese, often seen hanging up in old-school Italian delis. Use it as a substitute for mozz in baked pastas. Spotted on: Margherita pizza at Bufalina , Guilford, CT 3) Cloumage: The proprietary name of a fresh-curd cow’s-milk cheese made at Shy Brothers Farm in Westport, MA. Swap it for ricotta in pasta or serve plain with a drizzle of honey. Spotted in: Garganelli with lamb-neck ragù at Sorellina , Boston (Illustration: Claire McCracken)