Jonathan Baptista, a Marine Corps veteran who learned to cook on Federal Hill, is bringing passion and vision to the venerable restaurant.

PROVIDENCE, R.I. — A Tuesday night would seem the perfect night to dine at Camille's without being noticed. Right?

I wasn't even in the door when I was greeted by name by both longtime manager George Kilborn Jr. and new assistant manager Chris Spertini.

You'd think that after more than 100 years, Camille's would let its guard down — but the great ones never do.

There were two good things about being made. One was getting to meet the new executive chef, a man who grew up in the hospitality business, served two tours in Iraq with the Marines and learned to cook on Federal Hill. Jonathan Baptista has it all, the passion and the skill to assume the kitchen of a Rhode Island institution such as Camille's.

He asked if he could cook for me as he would if a friend came in to dine.

But I wanted to order like an average diner. Still, I told him that I'd be happy to try anything he wished to prepare and send out. That was the second great thing about being recognized.

When you review a restaurant you do your best to try many things, but at some point you look like a glutton, so you edit yourself. On this night at Camille's, I was able to try a wide range of the menu in small portions, thanks to Baptista.

And before you, dear readers, cry foul because he knew he was cooking for me, let me point out that he didn't learn to cook that night. The fresh ingredients were in his kitchen, he knew how to cook them, and my server, Eric, was expertly prepared to deliver them with knowledge.

About that food, I'm still dreaming of the halibut he made with a yellow San Marzano tomato sauce drizzled on the plate.

It's the season for halibut and everyone deserves a bite of this succulent fish. It is also a fine source for omega 3 fatty acids, which are thought to benefit a body in oh so many ways. And it's not a fatty fish, but firm and meat-like. Letting its flavor speak for itself is what fine chefs do, and Baptista does it here. He doesn't even put the delicate sauce on the fish: You can swirl a piece through it, but you don't have to.

I also loved the baby carrots, with greens attached, fresh asparagus and red potatoes as the accompaniment.

Long before the halibut, Baptista sent out Cotuit oysters in an aioli flavored with the oysters' own liquor — so delicious I could have enjoyed a platter of them.

But the oysters were but a warm-up for the Melanzane al Forno, the eggplant appetizer topped with Narragansett Creamery ricotta, which is always a sign that something wonderful is coming. Baptista's charred tomato sauce was a worthy pairing with the savory eggplant, which was lightly fried and tender as could be. I believe it was served in a hollowed-out eggplant, but you'll forgive me if I lost track. Because that is when a shrimp salad arrived from the kitchen.

A large shrimp was wrapped in prosciutto and cooked with an orange sauce that was not only delightful on the shellfish but on the accompanying greens. What a nice lunch dish that would make.

The other appetizer we ordered was the night's special of tuna two ways. A row of pieces were expertly seared and sliced across the plate and served on a panzanella salad. It was accompanied by a tower layered with ahi tuna, avocado, mango and jumbo lump blue crab.

When I'm not thinking about the halibut, I'm lusting after my dining companion's carbonara. I only took one piece of the bucatini, one of my favorite spaghetti-like pastas, but I so wanted more. It was perfectly al dente and so creamy. Even now I covet the guanciale slices on top and the English peas and shaved truffle mixed in with the pasta.

I tried the gnocchi in a pink vodka sauce because these potato dumplings have been my obsession since I made them with my nana as a child. Here they are substantial and resemble Nana's in texture. But I opted to take them home and instead tuck into the scallop dish sent out by Baptista.

Only Bomster scallops, the ones harvested in Connecticut, are served here, and for now, they are served atop a delicious butternut squash risotto. That will be changing as the spring menu develops.

Baptista has a wonderful touch with fish. Perhaps it's his childhood growing up in Narragansett and on Block Island, where his family ran the Narragansett Inn for many, many years. He said hospitality was in his blood. He didn't start cooking professionally until he was hired five years ago as part of the opening team at Amici, a short-lived but excellent Federal Hill restaurant that reunited chef Gianfranco Campanella with restaurateur Gianfranco Marrocco to create sushi and wood-fired dishes.

Between tours of duty, Baptista worked with John Granata, who was executive chef at Camille's for 13 years before leaving to open the Post Office Cafe, in East Greenwich, last year. Baptista said Granata was his mentor. He learned well. He also cooked at Aquitane in Boston and spent time in Madrid, Spain, cooking.

Baptista became the newest executive chef at the storied Camille's last summer.

Camille's was originally opened at 174 Atwells Ave. in 1914 by Pasquale Parolisi as Marconi's Restaurant. It moved to the current space in a small part of a mansion on Bradford Street in 1919. A major renovation added the current dining room and kitchen in 1926.

When Parolisi's son, Jack, took over in 1952, he renamed it Camille's Roman Gardens for his wife, Camille. Her nephew, Gary Mantoosh, ran the restaurant until 2001, when it was sold to Frank Zammiello, who created the Top of the Hill Trust, which renovated and modernized the space from the themed grottoes that were its signature.

Today it is one of the most comfortable spots for dining you'll find, with big leather chairs, plenty of wall hangings to muffle extraneous noise, and attentive service.

All desserts are made in-house and a Bananas Foster crepe was just sweet and light enough to enjoy with a cup of cappuccino as I paid my check for one very special dining experience.

Camille's, 71 Bradford St., Providence. (401) 751-4812. camillesonthehill.com. Wheelchair accessible through the patio entrance. Complimentary valet parking. Lunch served Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.; dinner served Monday through Saturday from 5 p.m. Closed Sunday. Gluten-free menu with pasta and other options available.

BILL OF FARE

A dinner for two at Camille's might look like this:

Glass Prosecco: $11.00

Glass Laguna: $11.00

Tuna tasting: $18.00

Melanzane al Forno: $12.00

Carbonara: $28.00

Halibut: $42.00

Total: $112.00

Tax: $8.96

Tip: $25.00

Total: $145.96

— gciampa@providencejournal.com

(401) 277-7266

On Twitter: @gailciampa