For me, lavender conjures images of a top-down drive through the south of France. Fields and fields of purple unfold as I coast my hand out the window to catch the fragrant wind. Le sigh.

Until I can make my French fantasy a reality, I’ll settle for poundcake. Test Kitchen contributor Jessie Damuck just developed an excellent lemon-lavender pound cake (a perfect addition to an Easter brunch, I’d say). While it’s no Provence, it will satisfy the longing for now.

Look for culinary lavender at specialty food stores, tea and spice shops, or online. Photo: Alex Lau Alex Lau

You’ll find lavender fresh and dried, often at the farmers' market in the summer, and as a part of Herbes de Provence (a mixture of pungent herbs like marjoram, rosemary, thyme, oregano, and lavender). Lavender is a pretty amazing thing to have in your culinary arsenal but it can easily veer toward potpourri-town if you’re not careful. Keep these things in mind when you start to experiment:

No matter what you plan to do with it, make sure to buy “culinary lavender.” Like coconut oil, lavender is produced for uses other than cooking. It’s true: We made several batches of popcorn with cosmetic-grade coconut oil a few weeks ago. While we didn’t die or anything, we did feel a little bit weird about it. Lavender falls under the same umbrella. Culinary lavender is suitable for consumption while ornamental lavender isn’t (necessarily). And while it probably won’t kill you, just buy the stuff that you’re sure is safe to eat. It’s no fun biting into a piece of cake and coming away with a mouthful of leaves. We like to use lavender as an infusion, so either grind it (say, with sugar for baked goods) or strain it out of a liquid (cream or syrup) before using. You’ll still get great lavender flavor without the chalky chew.

There is only one teaspoon of lavender in this Lavender Shortbread with Fruits, Flowers, and Herbs. Photo: Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott

A little goes a long way. If you’re not following a recipe you trust, use lavender sparingly. Its flavor is strong and can easily overwhelm baked goods or savory dishes if you’re heavy-handed. When in doubt, err on the side of caution. Lavender has a strong flavor, so pair it accordingly with other assertive flavors. In baking, be sure to use a light touch or balance its low notes with something bright like lemon juice and zest. Herbes de Provence go great with lamb, or grilled or roasted chicken.

A few more ideas if this got the creative juices flowing: Infuse simple syrup with a sprinkling of lavender and use to sweeten iced tea, lemonade, or even to flavor meringue. Grind some lavender into sugar and use it in simple butter cookies or infuse cream for lavender-scented whipped or ice cream. Make your own dry blend of herbs and flowers (we like lavender with mint and rosemary) and rub on lamb chops or chicken wings before grilling. You can even candy the blossoms and use those to garnish. Now go make this cake.