This section includes some more detail instructions on how to specifically fabricate the above CAD drawings, for those that might need some detailed how to instructions.

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BottomBase_Short.pdf x2



-Start with 0.5" thick board, I used a 5.5" by 36" long boards. Use chop saw to cut down to 26.5" long. Use table saw to trim down to 5.25" wide. Set your chop saw to a 45deg angle and cut 1.5" in from each edge. I suggest cutting it too short (I.E. 1.25") and slowly trimming off parts until you get the the correct dimensions cut. To get your fan and AC outlet cutouts, use BottomBase_Short.dxf and cut on a CNC router or laser cutter. Note you only need to do this on one of the boards, the other the fan and AC outlet cutouts can be ignored. Drill the holes on the edges to the size diameter of the magnet you bought, in this case instead of 8mm I had 6mm magnets. You don't have to drill too deep, just enough to place a magnet or two in the hole. Finally, drill the various top down holes shown. The 1" and 0.5" holes dont have to be perfect, and the .2" holes are all just pilot holes so its only vital they be .25" from edges of board (note .2" hole is based on screw size. A .125" hole will work well with a smaller screw).

BottomSide_Short.pdf x2



-This part is an outside surface, so I made it out of Red Oak. I bought pieces already 2.5" wide and 0.5" thick, and used a chop saw to cut it down to 26.5". I then routed the edges with a 1/4" bit on a table router. Just make sure your height is set correctly on the table router to ensure you get a smooth cut (see Tips about preventing blowout). Only route the two edges shown on the drawing. To finish, see Finishing at the end of this appendix. If you want to engrave it, see Engraving at the end of this appendix.

jledden_BottomInnerPanel_Long.pdf x2



jledden_BottomInnerPanel_Short.pdf x2



-Start with two 1.5"x1.5" square board 48" long and two 36" long. Trim the board on a table saw to 1" x1". Use a chop saw to cut down to 37.5" and 25.5". Set your chop saw to a 45deg angle, and follow the same procedure as in BottomBase_Short.pdf to prevent overcutting your part. Cut some pilot holes on the 2 angled cuts you made, they dont have to be specifically measured, just enough to keep the frame together later. Do the same along several points in the wood, about .25" from the edge on the long side of the board. Setup your table router with a 1/4" Straight bit. Measure the height to 1/4" above table to make a 1/4" deep cut in the wood. Set your table router stop .4" from edge of bit. Cut the slot into the wood on the SHORT side of the wood, as shown in drawing. Finally, cut some channels on the .4" thick side of the slot, for wire routing later. They dont have to be remotely perfect, as seen in the pictures.

jledden_BottomInnerSpacer_Long.pdf x2



jledden_BottomInnerSpacer_Short.pdf x2



-Start with two 1.5"x0.5" board 48" long and two 36" long. Use a table saw to trim to 1" wide. Use chop saw to cut down to 38.5" and 26.5" long. Set chop saw to 45deg, and trim the edges down in the same manner as BottomBase_Short.pdf , but only cut 1" in instead of 1.5". Lastly, drill some pilot holes on the short edge of jledden_BottomInnerSpacer_Long.pdf that line up to the pilot holes on jledden_BottomInnerPanel_Long.pdf. Do the same for jledden_BottomInnerPanel_Short.pdf and jledden_BottomInnerSpacer_Short.pdf. The two angled cuts on them should line up identically their matching parts. For jledden_BottomInnerSpacer_Short.pdf add some larger 0.5" holes that line up to the 0.5" holes you made on BottomBase_Short.pdf.

jledden_BottomSide_Long1.pdf x4



-This is an outside piece, so I used Red Oak for it. I used the leftover wood from BottomSide_Short.pdf to make these parts. Use a chop saw to cut your leftover board down to 4.25" long. Drill out the holes shown to just enough depth for a magnet, about 1.25"-.25" deep depending on what magnet you use. Route the edges shown. The edges should all be pretty easy to do, aside from the 0.5" thick edge. For this one, I suggest just using an orbital or belt sander and free-hand a smooth edge to your part. To finish, see Finishing at the end of this appendix.

jledden_BottomSide_Long2.pdf x2



-This is another outside piece, so use Red Oak for it. Start with a 2.5"x0.5" board, 48" long. Trim the board down to only 2" wide. Use a chop saw to cut down to 38.5" long. Routed the two edges as shown, following same instructions as in BottomSide_Short.pdf. To finish, see Finishing at the end of this appendix. If you want to engrave it, see Engraving at the end of this appendix.

jledden_UChannel.pdf x96



-This one is pretty simple. Just 3D print the UChannel.stl file. Use a translucent material, I used ColorFabb XT-Clear. Print in 100% infill, use 4 wall thickness.

Leg1.pdf x4



-This is another outside piece, so I used Red Oak. I used two boards 2.5"x0.5"x36". Use a chop saw to cut the required number of boards to 17.5" long. Route the 2 edges shown on the drawing same as before. See Finishing at end of appendix.

Leg2.pdf x4



-This is another outside piece, so I used Red Oak. I used two boards 3.5"x0.5"x36". Use a table saw to trim the boards to 3" wide. Use a chop saw to cut the required number of boards down to 17.5". Route the 3 edges shown on the drawing, same as before. See Finishing at the end of the appendix.

Shelf.pdf x1



-For this you can use a simple piece of Birch Plywood and cut to 45"x25.5". If you want to do it exactly like mine, I cut two pieces to 45"x12.5" and one piece to only 45"x0.5". I then stained them different colors. To finish them off, I used a 36"x6" board underneath to keep them all together.

TopSidePanel_Long.pdf x2



-This is a top surface so I used Red Oak. Start with a piece 1.5"x0.5"x48". Use a chop saw to cut down to 38.5" long. Set your chop saw to a 45deg angle and use the method from BottomSide_Short.pdf to trim the edges to the proper length. Drill some pilot holes on the 45deg cut. Then use a larger drill from the long edge to make a chamfer/pocket cut. This will let you screw head sit inside the wood so that it doesn't interfere during assembly of the Top to the Bottom assembly. To finish it off, put a lip on the short edge of the board. Cut the lip 1/4" in from the edge, and unlike the drawing, cut it to .1875" from the bottom of the wood. To clarify, this means you will be cutting a slot .25" deep by .3125" thick. PM me if this still isnt clear.

TopSidePanel_Short.pdf x2



-Another top surface, so make it out of Red Oak. Use a 5.5"x0.5"x36" board. Use a table saw to trim down to 5.25" wide. Use a chop saw to trim to 26.5" long. Set your chop saw to a 45deg angle, and trim the board exactly as before. Make a slot exactly as you did on TopSidePanel_Long.pdf. Finish off by lining up TopSidePanel_Long.pdf edge to the edge on this part, and use the pilot holes you made on TopSidePanel_Long.pdf to add pilot holes to this part.

Screen.stlx1



-3D print this part out in your choice of color. I used 100% infill for as much stiffness as I could get.

TopCutout_Cover.dxf x4



-Use a CNC router or laser cutter to cut this part out of 1/16th in material. Black is the best, but I had to use gray PVC since it was the only material I could get fast enough for this project.

USBMount.dxf x2



-Use some of your scrap pieces of 1.5"x0.5" to make the USB mounts. Cut your scrap pieces to 3.75" long. Place in your CNC router or laser cutter and cut the given dxf. See Finishing at the end of the appendix.

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Engraving



-If you want to engrave the edges of your parts, you have two options. You can laser engrave or CNC route. If you know how to use a laser engraver/cutter, its very simple to do so, so I won't write it all down here. However, CNC routing an engraving and then painting a specific color can be a bit trickier so I'll outline the process here. First make sure your part is finished as described below.

Cut some simple vinyl adhesive or transfer paper to about the same width as your parts. Use a hard squeegee to apply the vinyl to your board. Place in your CNC router and engrave using a V-bit. I used V-Carve software, which easily lets you convert images into engravings. I just found an engraving I liked off google and used V-Carve to engrave it onto the board. If you don't have the software to do this, I suggest going the path of laser engraving as its much simpler. After engraving, cover any exposed wood with painters tape. Spray paint your part with a color of your choice. I used black, but gold or copper would looks pretty sweet too. After drying, peel off all your tape and vinyl. Now you have a sweet engraving on your parts!

Finishing



-Finishing the parts takes a bit of work. Start with thoroughly sanding all your parts with 400grit sand paper. Stain with a stain of your choice, I used Red Oak (on Red Oak, I know I know....). After staining, brush on your clear coat finish. After it dries for about an hour, throw another coat on there, and then again. I put 3 coats on total. After the final coat dries, use 1500 grit sand paper to ensure your clear coat is nice and smooth. This last part is only required if your clear coat is cheap and likes to bubble, like mine did.