Family History

In the early 1950’s David Rancourt left his home in Sherbrooke, QC Canada to learn the trade of shoemaking in Lewiston, Maine. By 1967 he had opened his own factory producing handmade moccasins. In 1970, his eldest son, Michael, joined him in the business. Together they grew the fledgling moccasin shop into a fully developed shoe factory producing luxury calfskin loafers for some of the best brands in the world. As a consequence of life's twists and turns, the factory changed ownership in the 1990's with Michael remaining at the helm. In 2008, the owners announced plans to close the operation in Lewiston, prompting Michael and his son Kyle to buy it back and launch Rancourt & Co. in 2009. Under the guidance of a new father-son partnership, Rancourt & Co. has continued the tradition of outstanding handsewn shoes while introducing the Blake construction which opened the door for boots, calfskin dress shoes and leather sneakers. Today, The commitment to the craft has never been stronger. We source the highest quality materials available and continually strive to craft some of the best shoes in the world. We are committed to honoring and preserving the shoemaking tradition that exists in our community. All Rancourt & Co. footwear is made in our factory in Lewiston, Maine USA.

Genuine Handsewn Moccasin Construction

The genuine handsewn moccasin construction is recognized worldwide as uniquely American. Since 1967 the Rancourt family has been crafting moccasins in Maine and for three generations we have strived to craft the best shoes in the world. Although moccasins have evolved from soft leather bottoms to more durable constructions, at Rancourt the practice of hand fitting leather to a shoe form, called a last, remains just as it has for generations. Our shoemakers, some with four decades of handsewing experience, are skilled in shaping and fitting the leather to the last with simple tools. They carefully tack the leather in place, then hand-stitch the leather with needles and waxed thread to create the moccasin upper. This produces a remarkably comfortable and flexible shoe. Discover more about our Handsewn Moccasin Construction by watching the video below.

Blake Welt Stitch Construction

The Blake construction was invented by American, Lyman Reed Blake, in the mid 1800’s. The beauty of the construction is in its simplicity, with a single row of stitching inside the upper attaching the outsole. Unlike Goodyear welted shoes, the Blake construction has no rib attached to the innersole making it superior in flexibility. With the Blake welt stitch construction we go one step further in that once the midsole or first sole is attached to the upper we then attach a second sole, also known as the outsole, to the midsole with a welt stitching machine. Again since there is no rib attached to the innersole flexibility is not compromised but in this instance the two soles provide additional comfort and longer wear. Perfecting The Blake Welt Stitch Construction has enabled us to develop more sophisticated footwear including our calfskin dress shoe collection. With this in our arsenal, we are confident we can craft a pair of shoes for every need. Discover more about our Blake Welt Stitch construction by watching the video below.

Leather 101

Terms

Grain - the outside of the animal hide. The grain side is typically de-haired leaving the grain exposed.

Flesh - the inside of the animal hide, depending on the processing of the hide and type of animal, the flesh side can be very fine or very rough.

Nap - the fleshy soft part of an animal hide.

Full-grain leather - a leather that is minimally processed so that the grain retains all of its natural characteristics and imperfections. The grain is not buffed, sanded, or corrected in any way.

Full-grain suede - also known as “flesh out” or “reverse suede.” This means that the grain side and the flesh side are intact but the flesh side is used for the outside of the shoes.

Split suede - the grain side and flesh side are both shaved off and the middle part of the hide is used. This practically eliminates all imperfections. Typically has a finer nap than a full-grain suede.

Pull-up - a characteristic of high-quality full-grain leathers where there is a temporary lightening of color when pressure is applied. This is due to the natural oil and wax in the hide moving around.

Snuffed - a leather is “snuffed” when the grain is buffed off, removing imperfections and leaving a soft velvety feel. Nubuck is snuffed leather.

Side Leather - leather from an adult cow, the hide is split into two equal pieces along the backbone creating two “sides” to be sold.

Calfskin – leather from a young cow. Noted for the tight and almost flawless grain. Calf typically has very few imperfections.

Burnishing - to make bright or shiny by rubbing the leather. We use wax and a rotating fabric wheel to burnish leather - giving it a bright finish but also adding character and depth of color and tone. Burnished leather is very often not uniform in color and tone.

Tannages

Chromexcel — Chromexcel is one of the most famous of Horween’s products. It comes from adult cowhides and is typically used for casual shoes. Chromexcel makes great shoes lined or unlined. Chromexcel is noted for its distinct pull-up.

Tannery: Horween Leather - Chicago, IL USA

Type: Full Grain leather

Feel: Waxy / oily, soft and flexible

Finish: Smooth and bright

Shell Cordovan — Shell Cordovan is arguably Horween’s most famous product and is hands-down the best leather money can buy. Shell Cordovan comes from the hindquarters of a horsehide and is the flesh side of the shell. The flesh is shaved and buffed very precisely to create a smooth and bright finish. Shell Cordovan is renowned for its beauty and distinct look but also for its longevity - a pair of well-maintained shell cordovan shoes can last 20-30 years. Shell Cordovan has a small amount of pull-up.

Tannery: Horween Leather - Chicago, IL USA

Type: Shell Cordovan

Feel: Waxy, soft and flexible

Finish: Smooth and bright

Calico — A relatively dry and fleshy suede. Durable and resistant to stains and water.

Tannery: Horween Leather - Chicago, IL USA

Type: Full Grain Suede

Feel: Dry, and moderately firm

Finish: Fleshy, medium to high nap

Orion — Very similar to Calico, a fleshy suede that is durable and resistant to stains and water however colors tend to be brighter.

Tannery: Horween Leather - Chicago, IL USA

Type: Full Grain Suede

Feel: Slightly oily, moderately soft and flexible

Finish: Fleshy, medium to high nap; brighter colors

Mohave — Waterproof and stain resistant suede with a shorter and finer nap. Used by the military for soldiers boots. The grain side is buffed to remove imperfections and leaves a soft feel, great for unlined shoes or boots.

Tannery: S.B. Foot Tannery - Red Wing, MN USA

Type: Full Grain Suede, grain side is buffed

Feel: Dry, moderately firm

Finish: Short nap

Repello — Lightweight suede with a fine nap that is typically reserved for dressier shoes. Available in many rich colors.

Tannery: Charles F. Stead Leather - Leeds, England, UK

Type: Split Suede

Feel: Soft and velvety

Finish: Short and fine nap

Odesa — Medium weight suede similar to repello but with a slightly rougher nap.

Tannery: Charles F. Stead Leather - Leeds, England, UK

Type: Split Suede

Feel: Soft and flexible

Finish: Fleshier, medium nap

Bulldog — Snuffed side leather that is burnished to give the leather character and depth of color.

Tannery: Horween Leather - Chicago, IL USA

Type: Snuffed Side Leather

Feel: Waxy on the surface, flesh is dry and moderately stiff

Finish: Waxy and bright

Buckaroo — Full Grain side leather that is tumbled to bring out the natural “pebble grain.” Brown colors have distinct pull-up, while black does not.

Tannery: Horween Leather - Chicago, IL USA

Type: Full Grain Side Leather

Feel: Oily and pliable

Finish: Moderately bright with noticeable pull-up

Rockford — Bright and pliable side leather that is notable for its very bright colors.

Tannery: Horween Leather - Chicago, IL USA

Type: Full Grain Side Leather

Feel: Soft and smooth

Finish: Bright and glassy smooth

Mimosa Calf — Slightly snuffed calfskin leather that is finished by hand using aniline stains and dyes, then burnished to create depth of color.

Tannery: La Veneta, Italy

Type: Calfskin

Feel: Soft and supple

Finish: Bright

Utica — Toggled and tumbled side leather with noticeable natural pebble grain.

Tannery: Horween Leather - Chicago, IL USA

Type: Full Grain Side Leather

Feel: Extremely pliable, not oily or waxy

Finish: Matte

Latigo Glace — Side leather printed with baby scotch grain, burnished to bring out high and low tones.

Tannery: Horween Leather - Chicago, IL USA

Type: Printed side leather

Feel: Firm and dry

Finish: Bright