During evening rush hour, the ebb and flow of commuters who visit Pennsylvania Station’s only liquor store resembles a wave crashing into, and then retreating, from the shore.

Despite the fact that most of the customers at Penn Wine & Spirits are hustling to make a train in one of the city’s busiest transit hubs, the vibe inside is rather Zen. It is calm and dark, kind of like stepping into a wine cellar.

There are all kinds of regulars, said Joe Maniscalco, who owns the store with Bruce Caulfield. There are those who hurriedly grab something for themselves, like cans of premixed drinks or mini-cartons of wine, and those who buy a bottle to split with friends on the train (there are plenty of screw-top bottles to choose from). Then there are those who linger, carefully picking out wine for dinner, or mulling over what’s known as the commuter special, $34.99 for four preselected bottles of wine.