On Sunday, I declared this week a meatless one at Al Dente HQ. I recognize that going meatless or vegetarian does not always mean that one is going to eat healthy. Macaroni and cheese is meatless, but if done well, it’s nothing more than a pan of glorious, gooey saturated fat. But, the idea was to cut out as much meat and processed food as possible in advance of the two-week buffet that will be my holidays.

Back to unhealthy and meatless, high cholesterol is where we started this week. Daniel Gritzer’s baked saffron risotto is a break from the traditional “add hot broth, stir until it’s absorbed, and repeat” rice dish that has made multiple appearances here lately. Not only does this go into the oven, but we make a roux, use gelatin (so not entirely meatless), cook with sushi rice, and add room temperature stock. It’s a veritable world gone mad.

By going to the oven, we end up with something more like a pasta pie or traditional mac and cheese. The added panko tops off a rich dish with complex flavors and textures.

WHAT WORKED: The sushi rice. Arborio would have been fine, but the short-grain sushi rice clumped together nicely and did not release as much starch into the dish.

WHAT DIDN’T: I opted to go with fontina cheese instead of mozzarella. It was dense, but not as stringy and salty as I would have liked.

EASE OF PREPARATION: Medium. There are a lot of things to keep track of at the same time.

BEST FOR: A weekend dinner, mac and cheese alternative, or a potluck side.

SERVE WITH: A dry white wine.

Baked Saffron Risotto

Adapted from Daniel Gritzer’s original at Serious Eats

2 cups vegetable stock

1 packet (1/4 oz.) unflavored gelatin

1 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 medium yellow onion, diced fine

1 cup sushi or Asian short-grain rice

1/2 cup dry white wine (JARED’S NOTE: I used a pinot grigio)

1 pinch saffron

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp. chilled unsalted butter

4 tbsp. melted unsalted butter

1 tbsp. all-purpose flour

2 tbsp. milk

1 large egg, beaten

1/2 lb. fontina cheese, diced

3/4 cup panko bread crumbs

2 tbsp. grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.

Heat oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add the onion. Stir occasionally until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat in oil. Cook 3 minutes or until rice releases its aroma but before it browns.

Add the wine and cook until it cooks off. Add 1 cup of stock and saffron, and stir in. Season with salt. Simmer and when the stock is absorbed fully, add half of the remaining stock. Stir, wait until it absorbs, the add the remainder of the stock. Season with salt and pepper, stirring until it forms a thick rice paste.

In the meantime, melt the chilled butter over medium-high heat in a small saucepan. When it bubbles, add the flour and stir in rapidly with a flat whisk. When the flour begins to brown, add the milk and whisk until it forms a thick, taffylike paste, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat, cool slightly, and whisk in the egg.

Transfer rice to a large mixing bowl and mix in the roux and egg. Fold in the cheese. In a smaller mixing bowl, combine panko crumbs and melted butter with a fork. Scoop rice into a large baking dish, using a spatula to scrape the edges of the bowl and spread into an even, flat layer. Top with the bread crumbs to make an even crust. Bake for 30 minutes or until the panko is golden.

Serve immediately.