Because of the dominance of the Cone Mills plant in America, denim that utilizes Cone’s White Oak fabrics are relatively consistent in their looks and textures. Denim produced by Cone Mills is woven using vintage shuttle looms- American Draper x3’s dating back to the 1940’s. Denim produced using the Draper x3’s have generally smoother and softer surfaces compared to Japanese denim. This quality is sometimes attributed to the bounce of the machinery off White Oak’s hardwood floors while in use, though this fact is still somewhat speculated by many.

Japanese denim on the other hand is woven on Toyoda looms that result in uneven and less consistent textures. Japanese denim is often stiffer than denim one might find elsewhere, due to it being loomstate, or, completely unchanged from the loom. It hasn’t been shrunk, washed or mercerized. It is pure denim. The rigidity that comes with this often means this denim will have a more uncomfortable break-in period, but one that will mold to your skin and become better with each wear.