In natural winemaking, the debate centers on whether to use a little sulfur dioxide before bottling to help wine withstand the rigors of travel, as well as other potential scourges like brettanomyces, a rogue yeast that can cause funky barnyard aromas, and mousiness, a bacterial taint reminiscent of the smell of a mouse cage. Mousiness is only detectable retronasally, after taking some in the mouth, which allows saliva to activate the mousy compounds in the wine.

Some producers choose to use a little sulfur dioxide before bottling to avoid risks, accepting the tapering, narrowing effect on aromas and flavors it might have. Others do not, preferring the increased vibrancy and unmediated aromas and flavors that can come without sulfites.

Instead, they seek stability through meticulous hygiene and winemaking, scrupulous attention to detail and keeping the pH of the wine low enough to discourage unwanted microbiological life.

Mr. Schulkin, who began his wine studies in Israel before coming to South Australia, chooses not to use sulfur dioxide, but he is easygoing about it. “We don’t mind life in our bottles, but we don’t like activity, so we prefer low pH,” he said. “It’s not about avoiding risks, but about managing them.”