Whenever political figures tour the globe, shaking hands with other world leaders, it is customary for fashion journalists to decode their clothes. To the Vatican, then, where the Trumps’ attempts at visual diplomacy beg to be unpicked.

What we have is Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring 2011 campaign replicated almost exactly as Stephen Klein photographed it: the fitted black frocks, the black lace mantillas, the strained expressions barely concealing deep sadness and pain.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Pope Francis with US President Donald Trump, First Lady Melania Trump and the daughter of US President Donald Trump Ivanka Trump at the end of a private audience at the Vatican on May 24, 2017 Photograph: Evan Vucci/AFP/Getty Images

This is a weird image, not least because widow’s weeds are no longer compulsory for papal greetings. The fact that the Trumps voluntarily covered their heads for the Pope, immediately after going headscarf-free in Saudia Arabia, is especially thought-provoking. Interesting, too, is the fact that in 2015 Donald Trump criticised Michelle Obama for doing the same. “Many people are saying it was wonderful that Mrs Obama refused to wear a scarf in Saudi Arabia,” read his wildly misspelt tweet, “but they were insulted.We have enuf enemies.”

Trump has spent the tour looking his usual 1980s air-conditioning salesman self, but the outfits worn by Flotus and Fdotus have demanded much examination. Some have interpreted the Trumps’ fashion choices on the trip – Melania’s Stella McCartney jumpsuit with gold, hard-edged “superhero” belt; both women’s judicious use of suits – as statements about female empowerment. But the fact that Melania is not simply nodding to the Dolce aesthetic here – which itself draws heavily from Catholicism – but is actually wearing Dolce & Gabbana, as the brand has breathlessly confirmed on social media, suggests that she could be making a bid for her first major Flotus fashion campaign.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Dolce Gabbana Spring Summer 2011 campaign. Photograph: Steven Klein

Ivanka’s clothes feel even more considered, pointing at a continued desire to use cutting-edge fashion to distract us from Trump’s retrograde worldview. Whether visiting women’s groups in Saudi Arabia or posting images of herself at the Western Wall in the kind of deep contemplation last seen in a Geri Halliwell music video, she has worn outfits with slightly subversive touches: this season’s new “Spiky Cat” sunglasses and a £1,595 grey silk dress with tassel belt by Hillier Bartley, an under-the-radar British brand beloved of the liberal elite.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Ivanka Trump touches the Western Wall, Judaism’s holiest prayer site Photograph: Heidi Levine/AP

It’s all a bit worrying in its gloss and polish. Thankfully, no hemline or accessory can distract from the key visual image of the tour so far: Melania pulling her hand away from Donald’s short, chubby fingers, not once but twice in a debacle now known as #slapgate on Twitter. It has led to fevered speculation that she has realised she is married to a large orange oaf. Here’s hoping.

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