The recipes here are vegetarian and nearly vegan. (I love carrots with olive oil, but butter makes them otherworldly.) They don’t rely on either animal products or heavy carbs as belly-filling crutches, but instead allow the vegetables themselves to become centerpieces. There’s squash stuffed with more squash that has been enriched by dried porcinis; a whole head of cauliflower boiled and then roasted until gloriously browned; and the aforementioned carrots, slow-roasted until soft and deeply caramelized. (These are an adaptation of the “forgotten carrots” served by Neil Borthwick at Merchants Tavern in London; they actually do require a little bit of attention.)