Considering how popular Cincinnati chili is in its hometown, it's a little surprising to realize that no one's opened a new chili parlor in a long time ... and that the formula has never been re-imagined by an up-to-date chef.

Well, that's about to happen. OTR Chili is planned to open in March in the former Sartre space in the Rhinegeist Brewery building. March 19 is the target date.

Jim Cornwell, who owned Sartre, has devised a new kind of Cincinnati chili restaurant. The restaurant will have the usual ways and coneys, along with a menu of snacks and other meals. There will be sandwiches, wings, salads, a cheese ball and pigs in a blanket made with a locally made cheese mett. "It will be fun and accessible," said Cornwell. "I love Cincinnati chili parlors, and there isn't one in OTR at all."

But Cornwell is taking what you might call an artisanal approach to the chili. They will be using all local beef from Ohio Valley Co-op. They'll grind it themselves in-house. The beef will be seared, not just boiled, blended and thick. Cornwell promises a bold and fresh spicing of the chili. He is looking forward to working with his chefs on specials that might work for variations on chili, like making it with lamb.

They're working on a price point. Cornwell hopes to be able to offer a 5-way for under $10.

Cornwell was also one of the owners of recently closed Dutch's in Oakley. He has worked as a chef at Maisonette and Boca.

In a definite improvement on many chili parlors, they'll offer wine, beer and cocktails. And there will be homemade pie: apple, lemon meringue and peanut butter from pastry chef Claire Koontz, and thick milkshakes and floats.

They are not completely changing the elegant decor of Sartre, said Cornwell, but they're downscaling it a bit, and adding a few pool tables and TVs.

A limited menu will be available upstairs in the Rhinegeist taproom.

OTR Chili, which will seat 65, will be open daily for dinner when it opens and will expand hours in the future.