What is sake?

Sake is sometimes referred to as “Japanese wine”. However, sake brewing process is starkly different to wine making or any other beverage production. Wine is made when yeast – wild or cultivated – converts grape sugars to alcohol.

Sake is made with rice. Rice has no sugars, only starch. To turn rice into alcohol, brewers first grow a special mould – kōji – on cooked rice. Same mould is used to create soy sauce and miso, by the way. Later, yeast is added into the mix and two processes – conversion of starch into sugars, and conversion of sugars into alcohol – all happen at the same time. The fermented starter is mixed with more rice, then water, and allowed to ferment further for up to a month. Of course, sake brewing is much more technical and labour-intensive than my two-sentence description, but all you need to know for now is that sake is a beverage made out of specially fermented rice.

How to pronounce “sake”?

Many, many people pronounce sake as ‘sah-ki. To my ear, it sounds terrible. My Russian heritage brings a very different term to mind, one used to describe a certain bodily liquid. Ok, I’ve said too much. Sake should be pronounced as sah-keh, with emphasis on the second syllable. Not sah-kay, either, it is Japanese, not French.

Types of sake

If you have tried sake and found it disappointing, I would bet good money you’ve been given a “futsū-shu”, or ordinary sake. Ordinary sake is a mixture of real sake with a generous addition of distilled alcohol, sugars and flavours, such as organic acids. Sadly, such sake makes up the majority of sake on the market and, therefore, gives a bad reputation to sake as a whole. Quite often awful stuff and best avoided.

Instead, ask the restaurant or the bottle shop if they carry the following premium grades of sake:

Junmai sake. This is pure sake, made without any addition of brewer’s alcohol. Nothing but rice, kōji, yeast and water Most sake enthusiasts prefer to drink Junmai.

Ginjō/Daiginjō sake. Ginjō/Daiginjō means premium/super premium sake. Two things distinguish brewing of Ginjō or Daiginjō. First of all, sake rice is polished to only 60/50% of its original size (polishing can often be more extreme, too). Secondly, fermentation is done at lower temperatures to produce particular aromatics. The Ginjō or Daiginjō label denotes a superior flavour and balance. Sake can be Junmai and Ginjō at the same time, since the former relates to the composition, rather than grade, of sake.

Not all Ginjō/Daiginjō is made without addition of brewer’s alcohol. If the word “Junmai” does not prefix Ginjō or Daiginjō, then the brewer has used a little alcohol at the end of sake maturation. This is done for technical reasons. Alcohol helps to draw out alcohol-soluble flavours and fragrance. The addition is minimal, and done shortly before pressing. Purists believe that non-Junmai (or aruten) sake is inferior, but the sake industry, one the whole, will disagree.

Honjōzo sake. This is quality sake, where the rice is polished down to 70% of its original size, and a little bit of distilled alcohol is added at the end of production. Not to be mistaken with Futsū sake, which contains far, far more added alcohol, and other additives. Honjōzo is, in a way, the entry-level premium sake. Often, its robust character and clean flavour makes it the best food companion. On the whole, it should be priced cheaper than the rest of premium grades.

Nama sake. Rather than a grade, this is a type of sake. More adventurous drinkers might like the idea of it. Nama is unpasteurised sake. The rawness of sake can result in livelier, more interesting flavours. Living enzymes, not deactivated by pasteurisation, can give Nama a zingy, effervescent quality. Namazake will only be as good as people who have handled it in the supply chain – it must have been kept refrigerated all the way from Japan to your table. Buy only from trusted purveyors and restaurants.

What does sake taste like?

Before I discovered proper sake, I used to think it was hilarious and daring to order hot sake with my Japanese meal. Then, I’d down each tiny glass as quickly as I could, to avoid actually tasting any of it.

After I discovered proper sake, I realised that sake needs to be sipped slowly and savoured, just like a glass of good wine. Good sake has a pleasant, balanced taste. Some sake is fruity, with ripe notes of peaches, mango and candied pineapple. Some is quite dry and acidic. Some has floral aromas, some earthy and interesting. But the key is “pleasant” and “enjoyable”. It should never taste off or bitter or cloying an heavy.

At what temperature should I drink sake?

You will find most sake is enjoyable lightly chilled, unless the label suggests otherwise. I’ve heard opinions that sake is only ever warmed up to mask bad taste, but this isn’t true. Cold temperature numbs the tastebuds, and you are less likely to notice the terrible flavour. Think of vodka, it is always served super cold. Gently warming some sake will intensify the fragrance of some sake, and the Japanese themselves are partial to warmed-up sake in winter. Just ask your sommelier which sake is well suited to be warmed up.

How should I drink sake?

You don’t have to drink sake out of tiny traditional sake cups. In fact, the restaurant and bar industry has been serving sake in clear tumblers and wine glasses, not unlike wine or premium spirits. A full-size glass lets the aroma flow more freely, and shows off the sake colour.

How should I store sake?

Just like wine, sake is alive. Biological and chemical reactions continue even after pasteurisation and bottling. Only some sake is suitable for ageing. You will need to drink most sake within a year of bottling. Store it in a cool, dark place. A cellar is, in fact, an excellent place for sake.

Once opened, sake will lose its character quickly. It will keep for up to a week in a fridge.

Unpasteurised sake is extremely sensitive to heat and light. It should ALWAYS be kept refrigerated.

Will I like sake?

Of course you will! But don’t just take my word for it. Sake is now widely available in quality bottle shops, bars and restaurants. Read my reviews and see which one takes your fancy !

Where to learn more about sake?

Dig around my site as I cover many sake-related topics, such as pairing sake with food or sake brewing. Want to read more about sake in another source? I am the official Australian reseller of Sake Today magazine, the first ever English-language publication dedicated solely to sake.