OAKLAND — Once nicknamed the “Lake of 1,000 Smells,” Lake Merritt could now be described as the lake of 1,000 sights, sounds, and barbecues.

Always a popular destination for families, throngs around the lake reached new heights in recent months — many openly flouting barbecue rules — in response to a confrontation between a white woman — dubbed #BBQBecky on social media — and a black family having a charcoal barbecue in April.

The crowds, many dragging grills to the shore and using the banned briquets to cook, are causing city leaders and residents to confront issues of litter, unpermitted sales of food and drink, and dumping of hot barbecue coals on the lawn and paths.

Even emergency vehicles have had trouble navigating Lakeshore Avenue on busy summer weekends because of the extra traffic and cars double parking to drop off picnic and barbecue supplies.

“It’s a public park, everyone has a right to use it,” said Councilman Abel Guillen, who represents the neighborhoods along Lakeshore. “But at the same time, we want to make sure we are not impeding public safety.”

The backlash over the #BBQBecky incident, where a woman who lives in the neighborhood called the police to report Kenzie Smith and his family for barbecuing with coals near the Cleveland Cascade, an area where only gas grills were allowed, was immediate. The extended call to police — which lasted more than an hour — was videotaped and posted to YouTube, renewing feelings of a growing racial divide in Oakland. No citations were issued.

The next month, in May, thousands came out for a “BBQ’N While Black” demonstration to send a message about racial profiling. The peaceful protest also fought against the perceived gentrification of the public park.

“Black people used to come here and have fun, and then the white people came and took it over,” said Cherlyn Myatt, a 57-year-old African American woman selling barbecue on a July weekend. “It’s a park, so you’re supposed to come out here and enjoy yourself with your family,” she said. “Everyone’s got to share.”

And it’s not just the barbecue drawing folks to Lake Merritt. Oakland’s “crown jewel,” always attractive to locals, has become a regional weekend destination after extensive bond-funded improvements were made in recent years to spruce up the shores and paths, clean the water and expand the city park.

Overwhelmingly passed in 2002, Measure DD, a $198 million bond measure was designed to revive the Estuary and Lake Merritt. At the south end, 12th Street was redesigned for pedestrian and bicyclist access and a new amphitheater, the Pergola at the north end was restored and trails rebuilt all around. Removing the Lake Merritt Channel culvert allowed water to flow between the lake and the Estuary.

As popularity soared, a parks and recreation committee decided to install permanent charcoal pits in Lakeside Park, along Grand Avenue, and discouraged coal grills from other areas, including Lakeshore Avenue, a narrower shore closer to the densely-populated Cleveland Heights neighborhood.

Despite the rules, people continued to barbecue with coals on the other side of the lake. One of those was Smith, who has entered the District 2 council race against Guillen and another challenger, Nikki Bas.

Recent July and August weekends demonstrated the bustle around the lake. Charcoal drifted into the summer air, as people double-parked along Lakeshore Avenue unloading picnic gear. Others on electric scooters and bicycles zigzagged through the crowd.

Vendors offered everything: shots of alcohol and beer, jewelry and massages, barbecue with all the fixings.

That vibe is what drew Andy Preston, 33, of Oakland, and his friend Bryan Lesueur, 38, of Berkeley, there on a recent Saturday.

“You always see a good mix of people out here,” said Lesueur, who is white, sitting in a lawn chair and enjoying a drink under a tree with his friend. “It’s interesting to see the world around us.”

Since the barbecue confrontation, the city has attempted to strike a balance between keeping people safe at the iconic lake — home to a wildlife refuge, Children’s Fairyland, boating, and gardens — without shutting down the party.

There have been a number of community meetings to discuss peoples’ feelings and what should be done, and more are planned next month. During one meeting in July with Councilman Guillen, residents expressed worry over racial profiling, and reported an uptick of dumped coals on grass and in the lake.

To help with that problem the city installed eight hot coal bins around the lake and public works have increased clean-up crews on Saturdays and Sundays, said Sean Maher, a spokesman for public works.

Oakland police have also increased patrols in the area, and enforcement officers were checking permits to ensure vendors selling food have health permits and are following county health rules. On a Sunday in June, parking enforcement technicians issued 300 citations, according to the city.

Myatt, who runs a pop-up barbecue stand, said a city employee had been by to check her permit. She said she thought officials only selectively enforced permits and rules in the park.

“Either enforce it or not,” she said. “This is a legitimate business.”

On a recent Saturday a 63-year-woman recalled how much has changed since she lived a few blocks away from Lakeshore Avenue 20 years ago.

“People got along, it was friendly, it was interracial,” said Angela as she sat on a bench, wearing a big black hat and silver sunglasses. She did not want to give her last name. “Nobody had any problems with it.”

“I love this lake,” she said, but was sad to hear about the “BBQ Becky” episode. “The rents are pushing a lot of people out around here … it’s too bad to see how Oakland’s changed.”

Staff writer Casey Tolan contributed reporting.