I doubt if any Iranian could just walk into Persepolis and think “this is freakin’ amazing!”. I mean I get that we all feel extremely overwhelmed by the proportions and get goosebumps over the fact that all this was built over 2500 years ago! But from a Persian point of view, things are a bit more than that.

They are a few places in the world that can beguile visitors as Persepolis does. The very air that pervades the once richest city under the sun now breathes history. Despite Alexander’s merciless revenge, it’s still easy to realize how grand the Persian empire was at the time. Just as grand as its founder, Cyrus the Great, whose tomb in Pasargadae, some 76 kilometers from Persepolis, displays his nobility and humbleness.

How to visit Persepolis?

Persepolis is 60km from Shiraz onwards to Yazd. It takes about an hour to reach it from Shiraz and it’s recommended to visit Naqsh-e Rostam on the way. If you’re interested, you could continue for another 76km and also visit the ruins of Pasargadae and the tomb of Cyrus the Great.

If you’re planning to visit Yazd after Shiraz, it would be wise to visit Persepolis and Pasargadae along the way. Instead of coming all the way back to Shiraz.

Any taxi driver would be happy to be hired for a complete day of visiting Persepolis. But there are plenty of tours and guides as well. You can also hire a guide at the entrance as well.

—

Persepolis was once the ceremonial capital of Persia. It is believed that it was Cyrus himself who chose the location, but Darius the Great brought it to glory by building the most opulent palaces the world had seen. The work was later completed by his successors Xerxes I, II and Artaxerxes I, II and III over a period of 150 years.

What’s so striking about Persepolis’ architecture is not the grandeur or the details, but how delicately it was influenced by the arts of construction from around the world. Tiles were brought from Babylon, precious stones from India, Cedrus wood from Lebanon and Lydia, and Greeks worked alongside Persians to raise hundreds of columns to the sky.

Just as you climb the main stairway you are staggered by the view of the Nation’s gate built by Xerxes the first. With huge bull-like figures with Assyrian looks staring back, it is now easier to understand how multicultural the Persian empire was. An inscription in 3 languages (old Persian, Neo-Babylonian, and Elamite) gives you the second proof.

Despite small restorations, some parts of Persepolis seem like they’ve just been carved out of the stone. That’s because Persepolis was lost and covered by sand for centuries before it was excavated. Almost everything you see is at its original state, something that’s not very easily found in the world nowadays.

The Apadana staircase is probably the most compelling part of the complex. Rows and rows of Persian nobles stand in formal clothing with feather headdresses alongside the Medes in round caps. Following them is the immortal army which was given its name due to the fact that its number of soldiers was never decreased. If any soldier was to die, another would quickly replace him.

And then there are the dignitaries from all across the Persian empire to pay their respect to the king by gifts they’ve brought from home.

I’ve been to Persepolis a couple of times in my life. The first time I was just dumbfounded and grasping for words. I was trying to understand how all this could have been shaped 2500 years ago and under those circumstances. The second time it was more enjoyable and after that, it was all about finding little secrets. Visiting Persepolis with a local guide really made a difference.





My Tips for visiting Persepolis:

#1 Read before you arrive

I’d say doing some reading before you go is crucial. It makes such a huge difference and enriches the experience in so many ways. Even if you’ve booked a guided tour, which you should, don’t just go there out of the dark. Visiting Persepolis easily takes more than two hours, combine that with the summer heat and it could get overwhelming. If you’re not big on reading, search for documentaries.

Books on Persepolis

A virtual guide of Persepolis by Alireza Shapour Shahbazi. This is the best book if you’d like a very detailed description of everything in Persepolis. It’s also available in several languages: German, French, English, and Italian. I couldn’t find an online link, but I got mine in a book shop in Tehran. The souvenir shop in Persepolis also has all of the versions but for a much higher price. I’d suggest buying it in Shiraz for almost half the price!

Travel guide to Fars province by Rowzaneh publications. This is an incredible book that covers all of Fars province. I’m still to find a guide book in Iran that is as professional and as well presented as this one. The Persepolis section is quite decent and it goes through a lot of details. Unfortunately, the English version of this book is extremely hard to find. But if you manage to find one, grab yourself a copy.

Documentaries about Persepolis:

Persepolis in 3D. This would give you an idea of how things looked before they were burnt down by the flames of Alexander.

Persepolis. This is a more general view of Iran’s history.

Persepolis, a new perspective

The Persian Empire

#2 Get a map

Many areas of the complex are closed to the public. So it’s very likely that you’ll end up with bars here and there. Persepolis is big and you don’t want to be running around in circles. Unfortunately, there is no map given at the ticket office, but if you’re on your own make sure you’ve either printed something from the internet or have a book that comes with a route.

#3 Eat well before

You’re going to be on foot for hours. There’s a cafe all the way south of the complex but if you think you’re going to get hungry, I suggest grabbing something at one of the shops before you enter.

#4 Bring a small bag

Backpacks are not allowed inside, so if you’ve got some snacks with you make sure you’ve got a small shoulder bag that can carry them.

#5 Hats and water are a must!

If you’re visiting in warmer seasons, be aware that there’s hardly any shade to be found here and the sun hits really hard over the hill. Bring a decent hat and make sure you have a bottle of water. You can refill it inside. It would be wise to either visit really early in the morning or in the afternoon.