A new wave of “coladas” have begun to crop up in several Brooklyn bars where tiki and tropical drinks aren’t the dominant cocktail style, but persist as cult favorites. At Fort Defiance, a café in Red Hook, Brooklyn, the Angostura Colada has become a favorite at the bar’s weekly tiki night. Based on the structure of a traditional Piña Colada (rum, pineapple and coconut), Zac Overman’s riff replaces most of the rum with spicy Angostura bitters. A bit of lime and overproof rum smooth out and balance the lip curling bitters, while pineapple and cream of coconut maintain the Piña’s tropical spirit.