Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que to open in Katy

The signature smoked pork chop from Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que in New Braunfels. The signature smoked pork chop from Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que in New Braunfels. Photo: Mike Sutter, San Antonio Express-News Photo: Mike Sutter, San Antonio Express-News Image 1 of / 33 Caption Close Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que to open in Katy 1 / 33 Back to Gallery

Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que, a legendary Llano barbecue joint which has been expanding statewide, will open an outpost near Katy Mills mall.

"The property has been acquired, and we are mostly done with the permits," confirmed co-owner and managing partner Barry Cooper. "Construction should start soon." An opening date has not yet been set. It will be located at 24205 Katy Freeway.

Cooper's is famous for its direct-heat "flat" barbecue pits in which coals are placed in the bottom of the pit and the meat is cooked on grates directly above.

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This technique is known as "cowboy style" or "West Texas style" barbecue and differs from the "offset" cooking techniques used by most Central Texas barbecue joints. Contemporary rotisserie-style pits are also used.

The ordering process at Cooper's is also different than the typical barbecue joint. Guests approach the open barbecue pits where all the prepared meats are spread out on trays. Guests point to the meats they want which are then placed on a paper-lined cafeteria tray. You then go inside to order sides (they're known for their free cup of beans), drinks, etc.

All traditional barbecue meats such as brisket, ribs, and sausage are available. Cabrito (goat) is also sometimes available. Cooper's is known as the "Home of the Big Chop" referring to a 2-inch thick, bone-in pork chop that is the centerpiece of the menu.

George Cooper opened the original Cooper's Pit Bar-B-Q in Mason, Texas in 1953. His son, Tommy, then opened an outpost in Llano in 1964 and called it Cooper's Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que. Llano businessman Terry Wootan took over that location in 1986 and bought it in 1992. Terry's son, Jason, is also now an owner of that location.

Terry Wootan later partnered with Barry Cooper, Tommy's son, to open additional franchised locations in New Braunfels and Fort Worth, and they are opening the location in Katy. Barry Cooper will be the managing partner of the Katy location.

J.C. Reid is the Chronicle's barbecue columnist. He also is the co-host of BBQ State of Mind, a podcast covering barbecue news from Texas and around the world, and co-founder of the Houston Barbecue Festival. You can follow him on Twitter and Facebook, or send barbecue tips and questions to jcreid@jcreidtx.com.