An American walks into a bar. “What’ll it be?” says the bartender.

For years, more likely than not, the answer would have been: “Make it a beer.”

Not anymore. Last year, for the first time, Americans reaching for a drink more often chose a glass of wine or a cocktail.

U.S. drinkers, particularly young ones, are having relationship problems with the national beverage. It’s no longer true they start out favoring mild pilsners and low-calorie beers, then graduate to harder stuff later in life, if at all. Now they are thinking about other things: taste, value, beer bellies.

Brenden Kennedy, a 32-year-old New York marketing executive, can’t remember the last time he drank a beer. His parents drank Bud Light. When he hit drinking age, he tended to reach for a prosecco.