Once all of the many holes in your plastic is drilled, use your tapping kit and cut threads in all of the 7/64” holes.

Now to cut and drill things without templates

Don’t worry, it’s not too much work.

PLUNGER ROD:

The plunger rod in total is 9 1/4 “ long, with two sections of ½” diameter Delrin rod at a length of 7 ½” and ½” respectively. Both sides of the 7 ½” section of delrin needs at least a ¾” deep hole with your 7/64” drill bit in the center of each end of the rod. The ½” section needs to be drilled the full way through. I cut a 9” section of delrin rod and drilled a ¾” long hole in one side and a 1 ¼” long hole on the other and cut a half inch segment off of that end of side with the deeper hole and trimmed down the excess until I had two sections of delrin at the proper size. Make sure to take your blade kerf into consideration when doing this It’s probably best to keep the delrin a little longer than needed and trim anything down after this process.

Tap the holes you drilled, and put the two segments of delrin onto a 1 ½” length screw with the unthreaded aluminum spacer in between. Take a file or sanding drum to the end of the smaller section of delrin rod and bevel that edge. This will be how our plunger enters the catch.

Take the Plungerhead one piece and score one side of it using sandpaper. Take the thick rubber gasket listed above, and super glue it to the surface.

On the other side, put the plungerhead 1, plungerhead 2 (with a skirt seal around it), plungerhead 3 (with wiffle tube attached) and the other end of the delrin rod together with the 1 ½” screw. It should look like this:

The plunger is done for now, and set it to the side.

ALUMINUM BAR:

This part is to connect the catch lifter and trigger together. Start by cutting the aluminum bar to 10 ¼”.

On the trigger side, drill 7/64” holes, 3/16” and ½” from the end of the aluminum. On the catch lifter side, drill 7/64” holes, ¼” and ½” from the end of the aluminum. Again, it’s best you make a pilot hole or make an indention with a nail before drilling. Tap these holes and use your ¼” screws to attach this to your trigger and catch lifter. Make sure it’s screwed into the same side of both parts. It should look like this:

Commentary:

This will be how the slam fire on the blaster is engaged. The catch itself moves freely from the catch lifter, allowing the trigger to be pulled and the catch lifter engaged while the blaster is being primed. As long as you keep the trigger compressed while you are moving the catch to its standard position, it will run into the catch lifter, releasing the spring when its motion is complete. This was the biggest innovation of the blaster and took a large majority of time to plan out correctly. It needs a lot more work, but this is a good step in the direction of slam fire homemades and creating blasters with a much smaller profile than ever before.

ALUMINUM TUBE:

Cut a section of the ⅝” diameter aluminum to 3” with your dremel or proper metal cutting disk on your mitre saw, or on your bandsaw.

Make sure to bevel the edges with a file, then sandpaper. Watch your digits, this can be very sharp after it’s cut! Once completed, hammer this into your spring rest piece. This will help guide your plunger rod into the catch area. PUTTING IT TOGETHER: All that’s left to do at this point is put the pieces together in the right places. I figure pictures are easier to follow than text for this part, so here's a ton of pictures showing how everything is put together properly. Make sure that the bottom of the pump grip and all parts attached inside the 1” PVC utilize Allen Screws at ¼” length, while the catch upper and lower and the main body to lower body mount are connected together with an Allen Screw at ½” length. If you choose to purchase them, four thumb screws are meant to connect the stock 1 to the stock 2 for ease of removal. Unless noted otherwise, all other parts are secured with your ¼” screws.



Put the blaster together in the order the pictures show: Take note that three of the ports behind the trigger use the round stainless steel standoffs.

Use your ¼” Allen screws to secure the trigger and catch lifter to the aluminum rod.

NOTE: I moved the extension spring to the top of the piece instead of on the side as the screw port would suggest. This HAS to be done due to lack of room in the lower body. I like this much better anyway.

Secure the upper and lower body mount using ½” allen screws. Screw in the middle one until it is flush with the top of the template. We will use this later to screw into the upper body.

Use the ¼” Allen screws to screw in the first catch plate.

Put the catch spring into the channel drilled for it earlier. To put the catch in place, carefully guide it in on its back with the allen screw side entering first. When it’s hovering over the spring, start to turn it on its side, placing it right on top of the spring as shown in the picrues above.

Screw the other catch plate in place.

Test the catch by screwing the catch lower in place using a ½” allen screw. I guided the plunger rod into the catch area as a point to press against as I screwed to catch lower in place. Remove it when secured, and depress the catch. It should a smooth and snappy motion. When satisfied, unscrew the catch lower for later. Screw the spring guide in place on the other side with ¼” allen screws. Time to screw the two sides of the lower body together. Notice how the extension spring is secured to the screw port shown. Check the trigger mechanism at this point. It shouldn’t snag anything. Should also be smooth and snappy. Next secure the pistol mount with ½” Allen screws. Slide the upper body through this mount. Then from the front, slide in your plunger rod, spring, and catch shuttle in that order. Make sure to use Lithium grease or silicon grease before putting the plunger into the main body. Also, make sure it’s going the right way. Align the upper body properly, and line up the hole that corresponds with the lowerbody/upper body mount. Take your allen wrench and screw the pieces together. Now you can re-attach the catch lower to the catch upper. I again used something to hold the catch upper in place, and screwed the catch lower to it. I had to move the aluminum bar out of the lower body to do this. Take the lower body cover from earlier and secure it. Not only does it cover the bottom of the blaster, but it is crucial for the catch lifter to use its surface to press against and allow the strong catch spring on the catch to be depressed. Put the pump grip together. Cut down four 1 ½” screws for use on the pump grip.

Put the pump grip spacers in place on the catch shuttle, and secure the pump grip to them.

Finish it off by attaching the front mount to the front of the plaster.

At this point, attach the barrel section to your bushing. Put a CPVC barrel into the exposed CPVC elbow and align it into the front barrel mount.