Inspired by his first trip to Europe in 1873, Naser al-Din Shah Qajar built Lalezar, the first modern boulevard in Tehran. Shops, cafes and smart restaurants dotted both sides of the street, making it the hipster destination of its time. A popular film and theatre culture helped keep the neighborhood thriving in the 1930s, 40s, and 50s. Photos by Roozbeh and Shaya Shahrestani