Coffee Houses of Wellington 1939 to 1979: Coffee in pre-espresso New Zealand.

Original and current coffee barons of Wellington, left to right, Jason Hall, Steve Gianoutsos, John Gianoutsos, Lambross Gianoutsos, Dennis Boulieris - front in wheelchair, Craig Miller, Geoff Marstand, David Thomes, Suzy van der Kwast, Chris Dillon.

Craig Miller at his book launch at Mojo HQ and Roastery.

Left, Suzy van der Kwast of Suzy's Coffee House. Right, Celia Juriss, the daughter of Florida Milk Bar owner Rene Gerondis. Florida Milk Bar at 226 Lambton Quay had the first espresso machine in New Zealand.

Suzy van der Kwast of Suzy's Coffee Lounge and Craig Miller at the book launch at Mojo HQ and Roastery.

Craig Miller reading a chapter from his book, Coffee Houses of Wellington 1939 to 1979: Coffee in pre-espresso New Zealand.

Wellingtonians looking for a new coffee table book will find exactly what they are looking for with Craig Miller's recently launched book about coffee houses in Wellington.

Mojo HQ and Roastery in Wellington was bustling with the doyens and doyennes of the New Zealand coffee scene for the launch of Coffee Houses of Wellington 1939-1979: coffee in pre-espresso New Zealand on November 21.

Miller says the book celebrates coffee house owners and staff, but most of all, the customers.

MONIQUE FORD/FAIRFAX NZ Suzy van der Kwast of Suzy's Coffee Lounge and Craig Miller meet up at his book launch.

"I'm wanting to show the respect to the customers that have come every day for 20 or more years to buy a cup of coffee – that's what has made our communities strong."

Coffee houses followed tea rooms in Wellington; coming into their own after the Second World War.

The first wave started in 1939 with tea rooms and milk bars revolutionising to introduce freshly roasted coffee as the central offering.

The book tells of Wellington coffee pioneers such as Arthur Dick Singleton of the French Maid Coffee House on Lambton Quay and Alfred Fagg of Fagg's on Cuba St.

Singleton was the first person to put a cup of coffee at the centre of hospitality, according to Miller's book.

"He taught us how coffee should taste."

The French Maid Coffee House is the most famous Wellington coffee shop in some ways, Miller says.

"It was a step towards art and art galleries.

"Modernists like Rita Angus, Theo Schoon, and Colin McMahon would drink their coffees there, and would ask Dick Singleton if they could put their art on the wall and maybe sell it."

Espresso machines first came to New Zealand in the 1950s, but by the mid-1960s most had disappeared, Miller says.

New Zealand's 1950 espresso craze was of an English type, and espresso fashion was fading by the 1960s. Machines fell into disrepair and the skills and parts needed to fix them were lacking.

Filter and Cona coffee took over.

Suzy van der Kwast organised and managed her coffee house, Suzy's Coffee Lounge, on Willis St from 1961 to 1987, Miller says.

"Suzy poured between 700 and 800 Cona coffees a day for so many years. In fact, her hand shows the signs of that. Suzy really was the Queen of Cona."

Nick Kanelos arrived in New Zealand from Greece in 1953, and his career would soon revolve around Wellington hospitality.

The book quotes him: "Over time we have seen most other cities spread out like an octopus, while Wellington remains a boutique city."

The launch was made particularly special for Miller by van der Kwast and Kanelos's presence.

"It is amazing just being with the people that brought about the change in the 50s and 60s and put down the foundation of what was to follow in the 80s."

Day-to-day, Miller owns a coffee house called Miller's in Auckland.

"Every morning I roast the same blend I have done for 25 years."

TIME PERIODS IN NEW ZEALAND COFFEE:

* First wave: Pre-espresso, 1939 to 1979.

* Second wave: Serious-espresso, 1980 to 2003.

* Third wave: Post-espresso, 2004 onwards.

GET A COPY:

* Unity Books, Willis St, $125.