I've been eating my way through the menu at SimpleThings, but might have to halt my journey after trying the Sweet Potato sandwich ($8.75). The complex collage of flavors and textures has me hooked. The main components are soft, dominated by the thick slab of warm grilled sweet potato, with "jammy" onions, creamy chevre spread and sliced avocado. This base is contrasted against the crunch of tart Granny Smith apples and crisp cumin coleslaw. It's all served on a salty pretzel roll with a sampling of pickled vegetables.

Normally a sandwich packed with such abundance muddles out individual flavors. But each bite of the Sweet Potato reveals new details: the subtle smokiness of cumin-washed cabbage, a pocket of tangy chevre, or a sweet tangle of caramelized onions. It's an unexpected success and my current favorite sandwich on Los Angeles' West 3rd Street.

Simplethings Sandwich and Pie Shop

8310 W 3rd St Los Angeles, CA 90048 (map) 323-592-3390; simplethingsrestaurant.com

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