At any given time, three to six pizzas sit on the counter. They are oblong and, because they are baked without a pan to shape the dough, they have rounded corners, like a horse track. The crust is noticeably lightweight when you pick it up, an impression that is confirmed by the mouth and, later, the stomach. The interior is honeycombed with air pockets. The underside of each slice is strong enough to carry a relatively heavy load of toppings without bending or collapsing.

This structural soundness is key to the pleasure. The toppings on a Bread and Salt slice are not decorations or seasonings, as they often are on round pizza. Each one is the point of its slice: a mix of fresh mushrooms with pepper, parsley and flecks of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano; zucchini shaved into fine threads and showered at the last minute with mint leaves; slices of late-summer red and yellow peppers picked while they still had few faintly bitter streaks of green reaching up their sides; a rough, dark pesto spooned around cherry tomatoes that were roasted until their skins turned black and pulled away from the globes of pulp inside; Concord grapes that blotch the dough with purple like exploded jelly grenades.

A chef’s hand is at work here, tossing black pepper and rosemary over the grape pizza, adding salt and excellent Sicilian olive oil to the tomato pulp, and hammering basil and hazelnuts for the pesto in a mortar. The hand belongs to Rick Easton, who oversees the pizzas and the nonpizzas and owns the restaurant. He also owned its predecessor, the Bread and Salt that operated in Pittsburgh for all of 2015 plus a few weeks on either side. For a short-lived place, it got a lot of media attention, luring restaurant hunters and recipe gatherers from across the country.

By the start of 2016, he had decided to move to New York City. When his first job fell through, he began shopping for a location for Bread and Salt. The real estate market had ideas of its own, as it often does, which is how the incarnation of Bread and Salt that Mr. Easton opened early this summer wound up in New Jersey. In addition to cheaper rents, Jersey City has ordinances that allow customers to show up with bottles of wine or beer and drink them, a handy policy because Bread and Salt’s beverage list has nothing more potent than Italian sodas and sparkling water.