We’re greeted by a pretty young man wearing tiny briefs, Converse high-tops and spangled epaulets. He directs us to the theater, where we’re again greeted by a receiving line of drag queens, towered over by the magnificent Mama T. Onstage, she’s a staggering 7 feet in heels and aerial wig, with a voice to match.

“I love the lesbians!” Mama coos to a woman in the front row, “Plus, if we need to move anything, we have your Subaru! Oh, look, you’re wearing sandals!”

It’s boozy and raunchy and showy as hell — and it’s only 4 o’clock in the afternoon. And in Seattle.

You know, Microsoft-Starbucks-Space-Needle-fish-tossing-for-tourists Seattle.

It would be easy for visitors to become disoriented and think they’re in West Hollywood or Palm Springs or, of course, San Francisco. But it turns out there’s plenty of Pride in the Pacific Northwest, and Seattle has the LGBT scene to prove it.

Spaces that are safe and welcoming for LGBT travelers are easy to find; the city has one of only two LGBT visitor’s centers in the nation. Drop in and ask them where to find what you need, from gay yoga to nude beaches or a wedding planner — the city has become a destination for gay weddings.

Back to Gallery Plenty of pride in Seattle’s gay scene 3 1 of 3 Photo: JORDAN STEAD, SEATTLEPI.COM 2 of 3 Photo: GENNA MARTIN, SEATTLEPI.COM 3 of 3 Photo: JORDAN STEAD, SEATTLEPI.COM





While you’re there, pick up a Greater Seattle Business Association business guide; it lists LGBT- and ally-owned businesses. There are listings outside Seattle, too, if you decide to get out of town, including an expanded Washington wine country section.

You can buy a bright red Trump-style “Make America Gay Again” T-shirt or cap at Cupcake Royale on Capitol Hill. The Seattle bakery has a number of locations, but this one is at 12th and Pike, in the heart of Seattle’s “gayborhood.” The cupcakes are gorgeous — I’m a sucker for the coconut bunny, a chocolate cake with pink frosting and coconut sprinkled on top — but there are seasonal varieties too. (Right now, it’s huckleberry and salted honey.)

And there are the shirts; the cafe knows its clientele.

The front of the shop is covered in scaffolding — the Hill (as locals call it) is a hive of construction activity, gentrifying at a breakneck pace. Seattle’s LGBT population has dispersed into the neighborhoods. According to the business association, West Seattle has the city’s fastest growing LGBT population, and Vashon Island, a ferry ride from downtown or West Seattle, is the fastest-growing lesbian enclave.

However, you’ll still want to start your foray into Seattle’s LGBT scene on the Hill, maybe at Cupcake Royale for a jolt of sugar and caffeine. The neighborhood has rainbow crosswalks that aren’t here solely for celebration; at some locations, they mark the site of gay bashings, reminding us that open diversity is a prize not everyone wants.

But the rainbow flag is everywhere, in shop windows and flying from balconies, proudly welcoming visitors to the Hill, no matter which letter of LGBT you identify with.

Across the street from Cupcake Royale is Unicorn — and the venue for Mimosas Cabaret and the aforementioned Mama T (who in less-PC circles is, simply, Mama Tits). Unicorn is all bright colors and sideshow decor, a dozen different striped patterns, taxidermy animals, shiny gold trim and an expansive bar, with a theater downstairs.

The crowd is, well, everyone.

While visiting with a group of locals, I spot a bachelorette party, a young woman and her mom, gay and lesbian couples, and a shockingly good-looking pair of tourists from Australia. Most have come to see Mama T, a YouTube celebrity for confronting the haters at Seattle’s 2014 Pride Parade. All have come for the show. Mimosas Cabaret is a matinee; nightlife doesn’t wait until after dark in Seattle.

Eight or so blocks to the west is Terra Plata. Chef Tamara Murphy is out and proud, but that’s a footnote to the gorgeous food and rugged space. I share small plates with my friend Mark (a longtime resident of the Hill). Figs and ricotta, roasted peppers, fries with garlic aioli; I have a house cocktail that’s peppery and bright.

The rooftop patio is filled with beautiful Seattleites. The clientele skews pairs and foursomes of men in their 30s and 40s in expensive shirts and designer eyeglasses. We talk about how the Hill has changed over the last 20-plus years — and where the LGBT community still goes to hang out.

There are Hot Flash dance nights at Neighbors for women (and those who identify as such). There’s the Eagle, a leather bar that’s been around forever, and gay karaoke nights at Purr. The Wildrose, a lesbian bar and a Capitol Hill cornerstone, has Taco Tuesdays, where the crowd and the tacos both have positive reviews.

Also among them is Pony, a gay bar in a tiny triangle building on a concrete island surrounded by new high-rises. Bananarama’s “Cruel Summer” spills out the front door — the DJ is playing ’80s pop this night — and we’re washed in pink neon light. The walls are covered with graffiti and pinup stencil art, and there are giant spiky penises hanging overhead. It’s chill while we’re there, but word is the place is positively heaving on big nights.

The crowd here is mixed — a few middle-aged white guys at the bar, a bear by the front door, a few barely-over-21 cute guys in tank tops on the patio. And a handful of women.

“Gay men are always taking out their straight girlfriends,” says Mark, “aren’t they?”

No one’s throwing shade, though; everyone smiles and says hello. It’s as advertised: everyone’s welcome.

While Seattle’s main LGBT neighborhood might be diluting — like everywhere, becoming more mainstream — the result is a spreading of the culture and a city that is gay friendly everywhere.

Pam Mandel is a Seattle freelance writer. Email: travel@sfchronicle.com Twitter and Instagram: @nerdseyeview

If you go

GETTING THERE

Alaska, Delta and Virgin Airlines run multiple daily flights from the Bay Area to Seattle. If you’re staying on Capitol Hill or downtown, you don’t need a car — take the light rail from SeaTac into the city. $2.25 to downtown, $3 to Capitol Hill. Tickets from vending machines at the station. www.soundtransit.org

WHERE TO STAY

Gaslight Inn: 1727 15th Ave.; (206) 325-3654; www.gaslight-inn.com. Eight-room bed and breakfast in a beautifully renovated Craftsman home. Swimming pool, full breakfast, walking distance from everything you’ll want to do on the Hill. Rooms start around $128; some have shared baths.

Thompson Hotel: 110 Stewart St.; (206) 623-4600; www.thompsonhotels.com/hotels/thompson-seattle. Brand - new hotel, walking distance from Pike Place Market and easy transportation to Capitol Hill. Gorgeous views and custom cocktails at the rooftop bar. Advance purchase rooms start at $300 night. If you’re splurging, ask for a view.

WHAT TO DO

Mimosa’s Cabaret at Unicorn: 1118 E. Pike St., (206) 325-6492; www.mimosascabaret.com . Tickets at the door or in advance online, $25. Delicious junk-food buffet (think corn dogs or chicken and waffles), $13. Full bar; your first mimosa is two bucks with admission.

Twist: Seattle Queer Film Festival: Multiple locations; www.threedollarbillcinema.org/2016. Through next Sunday, Oct. 23. Annual film festival showcasing the best in LGBT work. $240 for the whole festival or a party pass for $85.

WHERE TO EAT

Terra Plata: 1501 Melrose Ave.; (206) 325-1501; www.terraplata.com. Small plates from $6 to $32 with a strong emphasis on local. Monday night is paella night. Make reservations if you want a guaranteed seat, though there’s often room at the bar.

Poppy: 622 Broadway, (206) 324-1108, www.poppyseattle.com. Indian-style thali remixed with northwest ingredients. Dinner combos starting at $28. Happy hour thalis $6 each.

MORE INFORMATION

Seattle Gay Scene: www.seattlegayscene.com

Travel Gay Seattle: www.thegsba.org/travel-gay-seattle