Most of the single-malt Scotch we drink here in the U.S. comes from just two parts of that rugged and stubborn land. The massive pregnant bulge halfway up the country's east coast accounts for the likes of the Glenlivet, Glenfiddich, the Macallan, Glenmorangie, and too many others to count, while Islay, a largish island off the country's southwest coast, delivers the supersmoky Laphroaigs, Lagavulins, Ardbegs, and their ilk. There are a handful of popular malts from elsewhere, to be sure Highland Park from the Orkneys and the Isle of Skye's mighty Talisker spring to mind but not many.

Scotland, smaller than South Carolina, has a coastline almost as long as Alaska's, which makes for a lot of out-of-the-way corners, many of which produce great whisky, like these.

The West

Greg Marino/Studio D

If the whiskies of the northeast generally downplay the peat, those of Scotland's wild west tend to pile it on. Take Ledaig (10 years old, $40), from the large and empty Isle of Mull: To the nose, it's a story of smoke. But sip it and there's a huge barley-malt sweetness that wells up behind the peat. Or Campbeltown's classic Springbank (10 years old, $70), a massive whisky so smoky and briny that it reminds us of nothing so much as the juices of a rare, mesquite-grilled steak. Oban (14 years old, $70) makes a lightly sweet whisky that's as subtle as the other two are bold, more saltwater taffy than anything from the meat counter.

The Northeast

Greg Marino/Studio D

In the flat, wet, lonely northeast, Clynelish (14 years old, $49) makes a floral malt with hints of peat smoke and brine. Old Pulteney (12 years old, $50) yields a warming dram, dark and rich and extremely welcome when it's 40 degrees and raining. In other words, "July." Another 38 miles north is the Orkneys' main island, home of the sublime Highland Park and its cross-island rival, Scapa. At 14 years old, the Scapa ($57) is a brooding, intensely spicy whisky with notes of dark chocolate and honey.

The Lowlands

Greg Marino/Studio D

Auchentoshan (12 years old, $46) is one of the few remaining malts to hail from the soft rolling hills of the Scottish Lowlands. Redolent of meadow flowers and honeysuckle, it stands as a reminder that even the most rugged country has its sweet spots.

Vessels from Which to Drink Scotch

(from best to worst)

Josh Polan

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