Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

by Jamie Hale | The Oregonian, OregonLive

Take Interstate 84 east of Portland through the beautiful Columbia River Gorge, go up into the sagebrush plains of the Columbia Plateau, and across the foothills of the Blue Mountains. Follow Route 82 north as it curls up and around into the northeast corner of Oregon, where a pocket of beauty arises, suddenly, as if out of nowhere, right before your eyes.



Bordered by the majestic Wallowa Mountains to the south and west, and vast Hells Canyon to the east and north, the small town of Joseph is about as remote as it gets in Oregon. But unlike the small towns that proliferate the state's other far-flung regions, Joseph is bursting with culture and charm – a perfect getaway for families, hikers, artists and all who seek refuge in nature.



The Wallowas are often called the Swiss Alps of Oregon, and that comparison is no hyperbole. You can take a gondola ride to the top of Mount Howard, scale Oregon's own Matterhorn and hike to turquoise lakes ringed by stunning alpine vistas. In summer, it's a busy hub of warm weather recreation. Come fall, the yodelers emerge along with the beer ­­– brewed locally – a perfect companion to the Oregonian Bavaria.



The drive is long, but the town is well worth it. Where else can you find dozens of bronze statues lining the sidewalks downtown? Tour historic barns framed by snowcapped mountains? Peer down into the deepest canyon on the continent? All of it is found in Joseph, a place where "remote" is not a pejorative, but a selling point. Make it out there, and you'll be richly rewarded with some of the best attractions Oregon has to offer.

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1. The Wallowas

The scenic backdrop of this pocket of northeast Oregon, and one of the “Seven Wonders” of the state, the Wallowa Mountains are a truly breathtaking feature, worthy of the moniker the “Swiss Alps of Oregon.” Whether you’re hiking in them, camping along its creeks or looking at them from afar, the Wallowas are a huge part of what makes Joseph such a special place.

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2. Wallowa Lake

The other striking natural feature in Joseph, Wallowa Lake is a sizable lake created by a series of ancient glaciers coming off the mountains. It’s surrounded by high moraines – hills created by the sliding glaciers – and is best accessed at either Wallowa County Park on the northern end, or Wallowa Lake State Park on the southern end.

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3. Bronze monuments

Joseph used to be known for timber, but these days it’s all about bronze. With the world-renowned Valley Bronze foundry in town – not to mention TW and Parks bronze foundries in nearby Enterprise – the whole town is crazy about bronze statues. There are dozens of them lining the streets downtown, and filling up art galleries and local businesses as well.

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

4. Valley Bronze Foundry

Once you see the bronze statues around town, it's time to see how they're made. The Valley Bronze foundry gives extensive tours to the public, going step-by-step through their complicated process – starting with original art, and going through several kinds of casts before finally pouring the molten bronze.

Tours are Mon. to Sat. at 11 a.m. and cost $15 per person.

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5. Terminal Gravity Brewing

Found just north of Joseph in Enterprise, Terminal Gravity Brewing prides itself on brewing in the "middle of nowhere, center of the universe." The brewery specializes in ales, and every one that I tried was excellent. The brew pub – with a full menu – is set in a house off a gravel road on the outskirts of town, where locals and tourists fill picnic tables and the lawn outside in the summer.

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6. Arrowhead Chocolates

Part chocolate shop, part coffee shop, Arrowhead Chocolates is pure decadence. There are handmade chocolates of all kinds, but there's one I can't recommend enough: a single malt whisky chocolate, made with Ardbeg Scotch. It's as close to Scotch as you can get outside a glass of it, and it's so rich in flavor that it's best eaten in small bites, just like you're sipping it. Arrowhead is also a straightforward café, with coffee that will satisfy Portland palates – they do brew Stumptown, after all.

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7. Wallowa Lake Tramway

One of the best attractions in Oregon, the Wallowa Lake Tramway ascends 3,700 feet to the top of Mount Howard, offering spectacular views of the Wallowas and Wallowa Lake as you go. At the top, hiking trails lead to viewpoints of both the Wallowa Mountains and the Seven Devils Mountains in Idaho. If you're hungry while you're up there, the Summit Grill offers a basic menu at affordable prices.

The tramway operates May 21 through Oct. 2; tickets are $33 for adults, with discounts for seniors, students and kids.

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Jamie Hale/The Oregonian

8. Hells Canyon

Hells Canyon on the border of Oregon and Idaho is the deepest river gorge in North America, a whopping 2,000 feet deeper than the Grand Canyon. There aren't a ton of amenities for travelers, but gravel roads in the Hells Canyon National Recreation Area lead to several stunning viewpoints of the canyons that rise up over the Snake and Imnaha Rivers.

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9. Eagle Cap Wilderness

At nearly 360,000 acres, the Eagle Cap Wilderness is an amazing expanse of the Wallowas, featuring alpine vistas, turquoise lakes, high peaks and meadows bursting with wildflowers. The crown jewel here might just be Ice Lake, though there's no shortage of other hikes and destinations throughout the wilderness area.

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Terry Richard/The Oregonian

10. Joseph Branch Railriders

Rail riding is all the rage, and the pedal-powered railroad attraction is especially scenic in northeast Oregon. You book either a 2-hour tour or a 6-hour adventure with the Joseph Branch Railriders, following the rail tracks as they pass through timbered canyons, lovely farmland and by the Wallowa River, all with great views of the Wallowa Mountains as you go.

Tickets are $22 to $48 per person; go to jbrailriders.com for more information.

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11. Wallowology

Wallowology is as fun to say as it is to explore, full of educational exhibits that highlight the "wild science of Wallowa County." It's a perfect jumping-off point for travelers looking to understand the geography of the area, and a good spot for families to learn about history, geology, and plant and animal life in the area.

Wallowology is open Tues. to Sun., from Memorial Day through September; admission is free.

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12. Old Chief Joseph gravesite

In 1926, the remains of tiwi·teqis, known as Old Chief Joseph, were laid to rest at a gravesite overlooking Wallowa Lake. Old Chief Joseph was the father of Chief Joseph, the Nez Perce leader for whom the town of Joseph is named. While the elder chief died in 1877, his remains were reburied after the original gravesite was desecrated. The cultural landmark is officially part of the sprawling Nez Perce National Historic Park. Find it on the side of Route 351, just north of Wallowa County Park.

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13. Zumwalt Prairie

You won't see this kind of grassland anywhere else. The Zumwalt Prairie is the largest stretch of bunchgrass prairie in North America, a rare ecosystem that is protected in northeast Oregon by the Nature Conservancy and the U.S. Department of the Interior. There are several short hikes in the area, but some roads may require four-wheel drive or high-clearance vehicles to reach them.

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14. Chief Joseph Days

Easily the biggest event in Joseph, Chief Joseph Days takes over town in the last week of July, attracting throngs of tourists and locals alike for four days of "western entertainment," including the marquee event: the Chief Joseph Days Rodeo. If you want to go – or just want to stay in Joseph that week – it's best to plan far in advance, as hotels and campgrounds book up fast.

Chief Joseph Days will run from July 24 to 29 in 2018; buy tickets at chiefjosephdays.com.

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15. Oregon's Alpenfest

The big shindig in Wallowa County come fall is Oregon's Alpenfest, a four-day celebration of "Alpine culture, cuisine and liquid refreshment." Translation: Yodeling, sausage and plenty of beer. The Swiss-Bavarian event stretches across Joseph, Enterprise and Wallowa Lake, and features polka, folk dancing, alphorn music and yodeling, filling steins with Terminal Gravity's own Alpenfest brew. They don't call the Wallowas the Swiss Alps of Oregon for nothing.

Alpenfest will run from Sept. 28 to Oct. 1 in 2017. Buy tickets at oregonalpenfest.blogspot.com.

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16. Historic Wallowa Lake Lodge

Since 1923, the Wallowa Lake Lodge has offered a tranquil retreat for visitors to the Wallowas, boasting 22 rooms and eight rustic cabins. The property is right on the southern end of Wallowa Lake, making recreation of all kinds easily accessible. The lodge is under new ownership as of April, 2016, after a group of local investors raised $3.1 million to save it from being torn down to build a subdivision.

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17. Stein Distillery

Started in 2009, Stein Distillery in downtown Joseph has been busy whipping up a great selection of whiskies, rum and vodka, making their own mash from grain grown on their own farm. The tasting room offers samples of all that they do, and just about all of it is good, especially the rye whiskey, rye vodka and the cordials. You can try to walk out without buying a bottle, but you'd be foolish to pass up the opportunity.

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18. Iwetemlaykin State Heritage Site

Until recently, Iwetemlaykin State Heritage Site was private property, but as of 2009 it's been open to the public as a 62-acre park, with a small network of trails that leads through grasslands and around a pond, with views of the Wallowas to the west. The park is quiet, and perfect for a contemplative stroll. The trails also connect to the Old Chief Joseph Gravesite, via a short walk on the shoulder of Route 351.

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19. Josephy Center for Arts and Culture

Promoted as a community gathering place, the Josephy Center for Arts and Culture features work from local artists in rotating exhibits, and hosts lectures, performances, classes and workshops in its log cabin building in downtown Joseph. It might be Joseph's best art gallery, with a diverse approach to art, and a keen eye on including elements of local culture.

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20. Hurricane Creek

A lesser-known access point to the Eagle Cap Wilderness, Hurricane Creek offers a good system of trails that eventually connects to larger networks higher in the mountains. The Hurricane Creek campground is a good alternate to Wallowa Lake State Park, though if you sleep near the creek, you'll soon discover how Hurricane got its name.

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Honorable mention: Bigfoot Balloons, Uptown Art, Embers Brewhouse, Baggins Wagen Mini Doughnuts, Historic barns, Wallowa County Park

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NORTHWEST TRAVEL GUIDES

6 bonus waterfalls near Silver Falls: Silver Falls gets all the attention, but here are some other waterfalls near the popular state park.

3 stunning viewpoints of Hells Canyon: See the deepest river gorge in North America from the Oregon side, at three viewpoints.

Our favorite places to kayak around Portland: From the Columbia River, out at Sauvie Island and up to White Salmon, here are places to kayak near the city.

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--Jamie Hale | jhale@oregonian.com | @HaleJamesB

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