Stephanie Yao Long, The Oregonian/OregonLive

By Grant Butler, The Oregonian/OregonLive

Like any vibrant city, downtown Portland is constantly changing. Older businesses close and make way for new ones. Buildings get torn down, or undergo massive overhauls to serve a whole new purpose. And new high-rise towers change the shape of our skyline.

When you live or work downtown, these changes can seem small and incremental, since they happen over the span of months and years. But when you look at the changes across a long period of time, the sum total of the changes can feel dramatic.

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Grant Butler, The Oregonian/OregonLive

A colleague recently unearthed a 2004 Portland Visitor's Map, which was produced by the Portland Spirit Cruises and George Forbes at the time, and was distributed by the Portland Oregon Visitors Association (now known as Travel Portland), along with many downtown hotels and restaurants, as a way to promote downtown businesses. The map features shops and restaurants that were tourist destinations at the time, along with hotels, museums and other sights.

Oddly, left off of the visitor’s map is any mention of Powell’s Books, which has long been one of the top destinations for out-of-town visitors. That's because highlighted businesses were actually paid advertising, and Powell's produced its own downtown walking map.

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This section of the 2004 Portland Visitor's Map highlights numerous downtown businesses that are no longer around, illustrating how much the city's core has changed in 13 years.

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See a full-sized PDF of the 2004 Portland Visitor's Map.

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Dave Killen, The Oregonian/OregonLive

A 13-year-old map is hardly a historic artifact, but it’s a fascinating flashback to a different time – and a very different downtown. Here’s a look at the businesses that were highlighted on the 2004 map that are no longer around, along with an assessment of their legacy.

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Alexander's Restaurant on the 23rd Floor

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Stephanie Yao Long, The Oregonian/OregonLive

When downtown’s Hilton Hotel was built in the 1960s, its top floor was home to Canlis, a high-end restaurant that set the gold standard for fancy eating in Portland. Over the years, the space underwent several name and concept changes, eventually becoming Alexander’s Restaurant, which was a popular spot for late-night jazz and great views of the West Hills.

Legacy: Alexander's wasn't a buzzed-about restaurant, but its view was remarkable. The top-floor space is now used for private events, but isn't open to the public. A shame!

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Apple Music

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Steven Gibbons

This Southwest First Avenue music shop had the city’s largest collection of acoustic and electric guitars, keyboards, drums and speakers, and was popular with touring musicians, who often took advantage of Oregon’s lack of a sales tax to score expensive new equipment. It closed in 2015 after almost 40 years in business.

Legacy: If you go to any local concert or attend an event like the Waterfront Blues Festival, it's practically guaranteed that some of the instruments you're hearing came from Apple Music.

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Brasserie Montmartre

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Olivia Bucks, The Oregonian/OregonLive

When this Parisian-style French bistro opened downtown in 1978, it quickly became a popular nightspot, thanks to its in-house magician, live jazz, and paper-covered tabletops, on which diners were encouraged to color while waiting for their food. The menu varied in quality over time, and during its last decade, Brasserie was open in fits and starts before closing for good in 2015. The space is now home to Park Avenue Fine Wines and Bardot wine bar.

Legacy: Even though the food could be iffy, this was a significant part of the city's jazz scene, giving local musicians reliable weekly gigs. And there are generations of Portlanders who still swoon over memories of the kitchen's signature fondue and cones of crispy French fries.

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Bush Garden Japanese Restaurant

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Steven Gibbons

This upscale Japanese Restaurant originally opened in 1960, but moved to the parking garage adjacent to the Galleria in 1979. Because of the parking garage setting, dinnertime crowds were often sparse. But Bush Garden did brisk lunch business, and a seat at the small sushi bar was a prized commodity. The restaurant closed in 2009, when the recession and construction of the Park Avenue West tower cut into business. The Japanese curry restaurant Kalé is there now.

Legacy: Because it was around for almost 50 years, Bush Garden played a significant role introducing Japanese food to the city. It may have been eclipsed in buzz by other restaurants, but its legacy is deep and lasting.

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Button Emporium & Ribbonry

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Carole Archer

Long before hipsters discovered DIY sewing, this downtown shop (co-owned by Marvis Lutz, seen here holding a doll used to model christening dresses) was selling unusual imported buttons, ornate ribbons and delicate French lace. It closed in 2016 after more than 20 years in business.

Legacy: As one-of-a-kind businesses go, there really was nothing quite like the Button Emporium. You can find unusual buttons and ribbons online, but getting to see and touch them before you buy isn't the same.

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Carl Greve Jewelers

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Motoya Nakamura, The Oregonian/OregonLive

This luxury downtown jewelry store was a very popular spot with wealthy tourists, who would take advantage of our lack of sales tax to buy wedding rings and Rolex watches while visiting Portland. But Carl Greve was a whole lot more than baubles. On its second floor, they sold fine china, unique housewares and some of the nicest Christmas ornaments during the holiday season. In the early 2000s, the store moved to a smaller location by Pioneer Courthouse Square, but closed in 2011 as high-end jewelry stores nationwide struggled during the economic downturn.

Legacy: Carl Greve was in business for 88 years before shuttering, injecting untold millions into the local economy. Now when wealthy tourists want to take advantage of no sales tax, they spend their money at Tiffany's, not a locally-owned jeweler.

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The Daily Grill

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Olivia Bucks, The Oregonian/OregonLive

This national chain restaurant on the ground floor of the Westin Hotel served super-sized portions of American comfort food that gave new meaning to the word “ordinary.” And we’re talking portions so large that they could be downright unappetizing.

Legacy: With so many better restaurants located nearby, there wasn't a reason for people other than weary hotel guests to dine here.

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Dragonfish Asian Cafe

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Ross William Hamilton, The Oregonian/OregonLive

This pan-Asian restaurant inside downtown's Paramount Hotel was an offshoot of a Seattle restaurant, serving poke long before the current trend, along with a range of seafood dishes. Dragonfish opened in 2001, and was a popular lunch spot for inexpensive bentos and dependable sushi. It also was popular with theatergoers, who would pop in after movies at the Fox Tower across the street, or the block-away Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall, before closing in 2012. Since then, it's been several restaurants, and now is the pork-centric Swank & Swine.

Legacy: Downtown's theater district could use more affordable restaurants like Dragonfish.

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Fernando's Hideaway

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Ross William Hamilton, The Oregonian/OregonLive

This cozy Spanish tapas den opened in 1995, serving dependable small plates at dinnertime before morphing into a late-night dance spot. The Hideaway closed in 2007, and the space is currently empty.

Legacy: This restaurant was the epitome of romance, and was a 22-year anchor of a part of downtown that's still struggling a decade later.

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Greek Cusina

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Ross William Hamilton, The Oregonian/OregonLive

There’s no way you could miss this longtime Greek restaurant, thanks to the two-story inflatable purple octopus that adorned the outside. The downtown restaurant, which opened in 1987, featured unremarkable Greek food, but the real action was in the upstairs party rooms, where young people downed ouzo. The restaurant closed in 2010 after its owner fought with the city over fines related to numerous fire code violations.

Legacy: The Greek Cusina building remains empty and continues to be one of downtown's biggest eyesores.

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Il Fornaio

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Roger Jensen, The Oregonian/OregonLive

While outside of downtown's core, the 2004 visitor's map highlighted this outpost of a California-based Italian chain. The kitchen specialized in regional Italian dishes, with an emphasis on freshly baked bread and pizza. It lasted until 2004 – not long after the ink was dry on this map -- making way for Elephants Delicatessen, which moved here from the nearby Uptown Shopping Center location.

Legacy: The bread here was good, but nothing compared to the quality from nearby Ken's Artisan Bakery. And the Italian food was forgettable.

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Kathleen's of Dublin

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Michael Wilhelm, Special to The Oregonian/OregonLive

This shop specialized in Irish-made clothing and jewelry, and featured some of the most-beautiful wool sweaters and scarves in town. At the time of the 2004 visitor's map, it was located in the Southwest Broadway space that now is home to Ruth's Chris Steakhouse, though it briefly moved a block west to Southwest Park in 2007 before closing in 2011. In 2014, the space became Barlow Artisanal Bar, a popular pre-theater cocktail spot.

Legacy: To get Irish-made sweaters this fine, you have to travel to the Emerald Isle. Good luck with the airfare.

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Kitchen Kaboodle

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Benjamin Brink, The Oregonian/OregonLive

This Portland kitchen supply store occupied a second-floor space on the Southwest Sixth Avenue transit mall in 2004, offering a mix of furniture, small appliances and high-end knives. It closed in 2007, though locations in Northeast and Northwest Portland, along with suburban stores in Beaverton and Hillsboro remain.

Legacy: When Kitchen Kaboodle closed its downtown location, shoppers had to turn to Macy's for cooking equipment and gadgets. With Macy's recent closure, they have to head to Sur La Table in the Pearl or the Kitchen Kaboodle on Northwest 23rd Avenue.

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McCormick & Schmick's

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Ross William Hamilton, The Oregonian/OregonLive

Long before it became a national chain, the original McCormick & Schmick’s on Southwest First Avenue was the place for getting fresh seafood in a high-end setting. Founded by business partners Doug Schmick (left) and Bill McCormick, it opened in 1979, where it offered a daily selection of fresh fish and a popular happy hour before closing in 2009, when many restaurants struggled during the economic downturn.

Legacy: McCormick & Schmick's lost much of its luster after going national, but there was still something special about being able to dine at the original.

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Meier & Frank

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Rob Finch, The Oregonian/OregonLive

For generations, this downtown department store was one of the best places to shop. But it was more than just a department store, thanks to its glorious 10th floor, which featured the pretty Georgian Room restaurant, which was a popular lunch spot for “ladies who lunch.” And during the holiday season, the top floor was home to Santaland, which featured a kids’ monorail ride, and St. Nick himself. Meier & Frank became Macy’s in 2006, and the store size was dramatically reduced to make way for The Nines Hotel, which now occupies the top floor of the building. Macy’s closed the downtown store earlier this year.

Legacy: The demise of Meier & Frank's flagship store left a hole in Portland's heart. Visiting Santa anywhere else will never have quite the same magic.

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P.F. Chang's China Bistro

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Fredrick D. Joe, The Oregonian/OregonLive

Here's another oddity of the 2004 visitor's map. While the visitors' association highlighted the Fourth Avenue gate to Chinatown, it showcased this depressing national chain in the Pearl District. Sure, it was one of the early anchors of the revitalized Brewery Blocks, but the food was mediocre, and the kitchen's flawed venting system made the surrounding area smell of rancid cooking oil. P.F. Chang's closed in 2013 (though there still are outposts of the chain in Tigard and Hillsboro), and sat empty until the burger chain Holstein's earlier this year.

Legacy: The Pearl District sure smells better since this Chinese chain closed here.

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Portland Steak & Chophouse

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Carole Archer, The Oregonian/OregonLive

During the late 1990s, Portland’s steakhouse scene was booming, with the arrival of big national chains like Ruth’s Chris and Morton’s, which offered stiff competition to the venerable local favorite RingSide. This steakhouse on the ground floor of Old Town’s Embassy Suites Hotel was relegated to also-ran status in the steakhouse war, though it was popular with business people for expense-account lunches. It closed in 2009.

Legacy: This steakhouse was quickly forgotten, while others continue to thrive.

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Red Eagle Gallery

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Steven Nehl, The Oregonian/OregonLive

Before downtown’s West End got revitalized earlier this decade, a number of unique businesses struggled to find customers, including this unique art gallery, which was run by Samuel Bryant. Red Eagle specialized in art from Zimbabwe, including stone sculptures and paintings. The gallery closed when Bryant relocated to Mississippi in 2005.

Legacy: Portland has a history of embracing niche art galleries, but this one may have been too narrowly focused to thrive.

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The Russian Gallery

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Chris Schneider, The Oregonian/OregonLive

This downtown gallery, which was run by director Nina Goulchenko, featured artwork, porcelain, jewelry and Russian knickknacks like hand-painted nesting dolls. Situated on Southwest Yamhill Street near Pioneer Courthouse Square and Pioneer Place shopping mall, it got plenty of foot-traffic, though it struggled in the mid-2000s, when light-rail lines were being added to the transit mall, and construction turned foot traffic into a trickle. It closed in 2014.

Legacy: The gift shop may have closed, but Russian Gallery still sells nesting dolls at several antique malls and online.

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Saks Fifth Avenue

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Steven Gibbons

This offshoot of the famous New York department store opened in 1990 as an achor of the Pioneer Place shopping center, and a sky bridge connected Saks with the mall. The store featured large murals by Oregon artist Rick Bartow next to its escalators, and featured high-end brands that other Portland stores didn’t carry. When Pioneer Place expanded in 2000, so did Saks, under the direction of Bill Halleran, opening a men’s store in the space that now is home to H&M. But business dropped off significantly when the economy collapsed in 2008, and Saks closed for good in 2010. Despite being a lavish and relatively new building, it was demolished to make way for the glass-box Apple store that’s there now.

Legacy: It's almost hard to believe that Saks lasted two decades in a city like Portland, where few people get dressed up, and you don't see many people wearing Gucci, Armani and Versace.

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St. John Boutique

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Motoya Nakamura, The Oregonian/OregonLive

The Southwest Broadway fashion boutique sold those smart knit suits favored by Cindy McCain during the 2008 Presidential campaign, and well-off Portland women came here for eveningwear, sportswear and accessories. But business tapered off as Portland fashion became increasingly casual, even at high-society events.

Legacy: Portland may not have been big enough to support a full St. John boutique, but you can still get the look at Nordstrom, which carries the line at its downtown store.

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Sungari Restaurant

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L.E. Baskow, Special to The Oregonian/OregonLive

It was easy to overlook this top-notch Chinese restaurant, which opened to little fanfare in 2000 in a hard-to-spot location along downtown's light-rail line. But word soon spread of the fiery Szechuan fare that was so good Sungari ranked among the city's very best restaurants, not just at the top of its Chinese spots. A dispute among owners split the business up not long after. While the original Sungari continued to operate, the similarly named Sungari Pearl opened in 2003 in the Pearl District, serving more-modern fare. The second Sungari later was renamed Seres Restaurant, and the original Sungari later closed and became Dragonwell Bistro.

Legacy: Portland didn't have any decent Szechuan-focused Chinese at the dawn of the new Millennium, and Sungari opened Portland up to the spicy possibilities.

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Swatch Watches

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Byron Beck, Special to The Oregonian/OregonLive

Remember those cool Swatch watches that were popular in the 1990s and early 2000s? These were the colorful Swiss-made watches that made bold fashion statements, and for about a decade beginning in 1999, you could find them at their own boutique on Southwest Morrison Street directly across from Pioneer Courthouse Square.

Legacy: You don't see many Swatch watches anymore, but their design aesthetic was clearly a key influence for the Apple watch.

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Todai Restaurant

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Michael Lloyd, The Oregonian/OregonLive

When Pioneer Place shopping center expanded in 2000, taking up the entire block to the east of the original mall, one of the new anchor tenants was Todai, a 12,000-square-foot Japanese restaurant that featured all-you-can-eat sushi and seafood. When dining here, you wondered how they made any money, particularly when you would see diners filling plate after plate of king crab legs. But it amazingly lasted a decade before folding.

Legacy: Pioneer Place has been struggling in the last few years, and the Todai space sat empty until 2013, when Punch Bowl Social moved in.

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Veritable Quandary

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Stephanie Yao Long, The Oregonian/OregonLive

When this venerable downtown restaurant closed last fall, it ended a 45-year run. The old brick building was home to one of the city's best after-work bars, and the kitchen in recent years produced impressive American fare, like giant prawns with bacon and avocado, a remarkable veggie burger, and chocolate soufflé. Owner Dennis King was there for the restaurant's entire run, and watched the city change. The building was demolished to make way for a new courthouse.

Legacy: The spirit of VQ lives on at nearby Q Restaurant, which employs 60 former members of the VQ staff, including chef Annie Cuggino.

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Wallbangers Restaurant & Showbar

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Doug Beghtel, The Oregonian/OregonLive

What was the visitors’ association thinking by highlighting this bizarre nightclub? Wallbangers featured dueling piano players who would take requests for songs from the audience between dirty jokes. Bonnie Mizell is seen here shining a spotlight on patrons when no one makes requests. Unless you liked audience participation, this wasn’t fun.

Legacy: Let's just say this -- anyone who suffered through an evening here will never forget it.

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Western Culinary Institute

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Fredrick D. Joe, The Oregonian/OregonLive

At the time that the 2004 visitors’ association map came out, business was booming for Western Culinary Institute. A year earlier, the cooking school had moved into the top floors of the refurbished Galleria building, and its student-chefs were learning how to manage kitchens and bake elaborate French desserts. In 2008, the school faced a lawsuit from former students who alleged that they were misled by sales pitches and that the school left them poorly prepared for culinary careers. The school was rechristened Le Cordon Bleu in 2010. In 2015, it was announced that the school would be closing in September, 2017, in the wake of federal regulations that limited federal funding to for-profit schools.

Legacy: Despite criticism over high tuition and students falling deep into debt, alums of the cooking school have prominent roles in many Portland restaurants today.

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New locations

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Ross William Hamilton, The Oregonian/OregonLive

Another thing that stands out looking at the 2004 downtown business map is how many shops and restaurants stayed downtown, but moved to new locations, including Niketown, Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, Dr. Martens, Finnegan’s Toys, Fossil Cartel, Karam and Mercantile. In most cases, the businesses moved because the buildings they were in were redeveloped, though in a couple of instances, the buildings were razed to make way for new construction.

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New high-rise buildings and hotels

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Courtesy of TMT Development

Since the 2004 map came out, there has been plenty of new development downtown, though there was a lull in construction projects during the recession. One project, the Park Avenue West tower, suspended construction for a few years. But when the economy rebounded, work resumed on it and several hotel projects, including the recently completed AC Hotel.

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Development of the West End

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Kristyna Wentz-Graff, The Oregonian/OregonLive

One of the biggest stories of downtown development since 2004 isn’t even hinted at on the old map. The West End, which stretches from 11th Avenue to Interstate 405, was a sleepy district back then, and nearby Southwest Stark Street was still part of the city’s gay nightlife district. Since then, the West End and Stark have been revitalized with many restaurants and shops. On the 2004 map, there’s little of note in the area beyond The Mark Spencer Hotel and Jake’s Famous Crawfish, which are both still up and running. A map today would need to flag the Multnomah Whiskey Library, Kask, Lardo, Grassa, Tasty n Alder, Clyde Common and other places that have made this area part of downtown’s deliciousness.

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-- Grant Butler

gbutler@oregonian.com

503-221-8566; @grantbutler