Why visit this spot?

Because it’s marvellous.

From this castle-top vantage point you can watch Kosovo’s second city sprawl in front of the distant snowy peaks of Koritnik and Prokletije.

It feels like you’ve reached the east – particularly after arriving from diplomatic and sterile Pristina. You can count more than 30 minarets, from which a disjointed chorus of muezzin erupts at sunset.

Visit too for the youthful joy of clambering up old stone walls. Climb up the ramparts to the rear of the castle and the Bistricë river will emerge, worming its way into town from the Sharr Mountains to the south.

Channel the energy of the Ottomans, open tinny number two, and hear its crack and pop echo across the mountainside.

Can in hand, descend down the dark and dicey stairwell. Be sure to watch your footing, particularly in wet conditions. The path at the bottom takes you back round to the entrance to achieve a satisfying loop of the ramparts.

How to get there

Wander up the lane to the east of Sinan Pasha mosque, through rows of tables and chairs outside of licensed establishments. You’ll spot a cobbled path to the left of a restaurant. Head up, past the old church. The way from there is steep but clear.

From the middle of town, it takes about 15 minutes for a tinny drinker of average fitness.

Proximity of tinny shops: 3.5/5

As with other hilltop tinny spots, you’ll need to bring your supplies with you.

There’s a trio of circular huts in town on the north side of the river which sell chewing gum, crisps, and thankfully, cans.

Skopsko, a dense Macedonian brew, is 4.9% and will cost you 70 cents. The other option is 4.2% Peja. From north east Kosovo, it’s the mainstay of the nation’s liscenced establishments.

Ease of toilet access: 2/5

There’s a café by the entrance and the hospitable nature of the Kosovars suggests that they’d be happy to let you use the facilities.

If you’re feeling shy, you’ll be able to find a hideaway somewhere in or around the castle.

Capacity for wandering, consuming, and resting: 5/5

Prizren offers a compact old town. There’s not lots to do, but the rows of terraces tell you that doing isn’t really the point of this place.

For food, you could do great deal worse than Te Syla, a Turkish style grill that’s been churning out meat based delights since 1967. The Sharr hamburger, though not an adventurous local speciality, provides a solid foundation for a late night. Vegetarians are well provided for by platters of fried cheese and delectable salads.

The licensed establishments here deserve a little credit. A bottle will cost you just 30 cents more than your hilltop can, an unusual margin. Squeeze the value out of this tithe by taking a bar stool at Te Kynezi on Shatërvan Street. Strike up conversation with the affable owner and he’ll help you understand more about the situation in Kosovo while you knock back a few quince rakis. Delicious.

For sleeping, it doesn’t get better than the warm dormitories at Driza’s House. Edmund – your helpful, convivial host – will help you to arrange wandering further afield.

In the morning, head south west and hop across the border into Albania for a quick can of Tirana (4.0%).