It's Hawaii's favorite frozen treat

Shave ice, a classic and colorful Hawaiian treat — Photo courtesy of iStock / Onfokus


The Hawaiian islands are an archipelago steeped in diversity. The physical isolation of the islands has fostered high rates of biodiversity and endemism in the state’s flora and fauna, while climate zones range from tropical rainforest on the east coast of the Big Island to polar tundra at the peak of Mauna Loa on the very same island.

Alongside this biological and geological diversity, Hawaii is unique in being the only U.S. state in which no particular racial group makes up the majority of the population. This blend of differing backgrounds and ethnicities has shaped the culinary landscape of Hawaii, and there are a number of dishes that Hawaiians hold a special affinity for. One dessert in particular has origins in East Asia, referred to across the island chain as shave ice.

It’s important to note the distinction between Hawaiian shave ice and the common snow cone. "Shave ice typically consists of ice shaved very thin, creating a soft flake of ice, instead of a crunchy piece of ice." explains Veronica Lovesy of The Shops at Kukui'ula, a shopping and dining destination in the south of Kaua'i. The final product has the consistency of freshly-fallen snow, and the flavoring is absorbed into the mix rather than pooling at the bottom.

Unlike the snow cone, shave ice has a soft, creamy texture — Photo courtesy of Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice

While the ice is the main component of the dish, there are a number of additional elements that can be added for a well-rounded shave ice experience, as Lovesy explains, "The ice is covered with flavored syrups, very similar to snow cones, but there are unique differences in what is added in addition to the syrup flavors. There are items added below the ice, which Uncle’s Shave Ice calls 'unders.' These include vanilla or macadamia nut ice cream, fresh fruit (strawberries or pineapple), red adzuki beans, mochi bits, and juice-filled bubble pops. Then many people add a sweet cream or coconut cream cap to the top, and some may add an Asian plum powder known as li hing mui powder, a local favorite."

The origin of shave ice can be traced back to Japan’s Heian period, with the earliest evidence of the dish arising roughly one millennium ago. The dessert, known as kakigōri (かき氷), consisted of shavings from a block of ice mixed with a sweet syrup.

Access to the treat was confined to only the highest fringes of society, as ice could only be sourced in the dead of winter, and needed to be stored in large ice houses or caves to prevent melting. The treat remained cordoned off from the lower classes until the early 1900s, as numerous advances in technology ushered in an era of cheap, plentiful ice.

While tropical fruit flavors are the most common, there are a number of different syrups one can use to flavor shave ice — Photo courtesy of Ululani's Hawaiian Shave Ice

This boom in technology was preceded by a dark point for Hawaii's natural landscape, as corporations laid waste to forests and ecosystems to institute large-scale sugarcane plantations. Sugar production is a labor-intensive process, and working class populations throughout East and Southeast Asia flocked to the islands in huge numbers to earn a steady income.

Japanese immigrants arrived in the tens of thousands, and while many returned to their native country over time, a permanent and sizable Japanese population cemented itself within the Hawaiian islands. These Japanese-Hawaiians, nostalgic for the kakigōri of their homeland, and now capable of obtaining cheap ice, were able to recreate the treat on their own.

While some immigrants continued to work on the plantations, other Japanese-Hawaiians left the trade to set up new business ventures across the islands. Kakigōri was sold in convenience and grocery stores, where it became known to the locals as "shave ice." Today, shave ice is a beloved treat available throughout the Hawaiian islands, with countless shops set up across the state.

Rainbow shave ice is a common form of presentation for the dish — Photo courtesy of Uncle's Shave Ice

Those in search of shave ice have a wealth of options, with each of the most heavily visited islands offering multiple outlets for the dish. Those visiting O’ahu may be interested in Island Snow, a shop set up in the village of Kailua. This spot has earned fame through its consistent visits by U.S. President Barack Obama, who spent years living on the island in his youth. Matsumoto Shave Ice in Haleiwa has also gained notoriety for its impressive age, having been in business for close to seventy years.

Visitors to Kaua'i can check out Uncle’s Shave Ice, with one location at the Shops at Kukui’ula in Koloa and another in Lihue. Alongside shave ice, visitors can purchase honey toast, another decadent Japanese dessert, and shave snow, a take on Taiwanese shave ice. The island of Maui offers multiple shave ice shops as well, with Ululani’s Hawaiian Shave Ice receiving consistent praise from local outlets.

A treat once isolated to only the wealthiest Japanese aristocrats, shave ice has become an emblem of the diverse culture and population of the islands of Hawaii. In a state rife with sunny beaches, stifling humidity and high temperatures, it’s no wonder why shave ice has become renowned as a classic Hawaiian dish.