To keep the soufflé as light as possible, the zucchini is grated (the food processor makes short work of this), and then cooked with onion and garlic until it’s really soft, almost melting. (If there’s liquid in the pan when you’re done, drain it to further lighten the mixture.)

From this point, the process is like making a cake: you whisk the egg yolks and cheese together in one bowl and the whites in another.

The whites should be light, fluffy and foamy, and they should hold soft peaks  you’ll know them when you see them. (Don’t let any of the yolk get into the whites or else none of this will happen.)

At this point, everything is combined, with the whites added gradually and gently so that they’re deflated as little as possible, and then baked. I like to do the soufflés individually, but you can make one big one.

In any case, they’ll become golden and puffy. They’ll begin to deflate in a couple of minutes, but if you get them to the table immediately, the drama will take place there, not in the kitchen.