In the unpretentious Bosnian capital you can brush shoulders with the stars, discover incredible street art and see amazing buildings, but there is no escaping reminders of the city’s fraught history

In five words

Where worlds collide and synchronise



Sound of the city

The sound of craft shops like this are still the beating heart of the old city – a rare place where mosque, cathedral, orthodox church and synagogue coexist in only 500 sq m.

Best building

Facebook Twitter Pinterest ‘A symbol of art, rebellion and free thinking’ ... the Academy of Fine Arts. Photograph: Dražen Huterer

The Academy of Fine Arts belongs to the legacy of Karel Paržik, a Czech architect who spent most of his life in Sarajevo and created an amazing number of beautiful buildings. It was built in 1899 in Romanic-Byzantine style, and was originally an Evangelic church.

Over the years, the academy became a kind of a cult place where young people gather. It stands as a symbol of art, rebellion and free thinking. In 2012, three young artists from the academy designed the modern bridge called “Festina lente” as the building’s own pathway.

Homegrown talent

Velahavle is a band that loves to experiment. Their style is a crossover of trip-hop and break sounds, and together with a few other bands, they keep the electronic music scene alive. Tired of people focusing on our differences rather than what binds us, they are outspoken about social injustices and anything that destroys culture and art. Their song Idemo Ludo, Idemo Jako became a hit, supporting the national football team during the 2014 World Cup.

The look on the street

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Street style in Sarajevo. Photograph: Dražen Huterer

Biggest controversy?

Sarajevo used to have a cable car. Built in 1959, it was one of the symbols of this city. In an instant, you could go from downtown to the mountains. It was, of course, destroyed in the war. But finally, it seemed, we got lucky: Switzerland donated 23 cable car cabins, and an American-Swiss physicist provided another €3.5m (£2.7m) to restore this classic Sarajevo feature. The city’s responsibility was to prepare for construction and raise the remaining €1.7m by other donations or loans.

However, they failed to fulfil these conditions. The deadline was extended, to no avail. And the donation was withdrawn. Many disappointed residents believe the city council is in desperate need of new people, who will govern with innovation and enthusiasm, rather than fear and bitterness. Two years ago, this disillusionment led to an uprising in all major cities, and the country came to a halt for a whole month. In the end, nothing changed.

Most underrated location

Sarajevo was always famous for its jokes. Even during the war, black humour helped people keep their minds clear

On a hilltop in Vraca, a mere 15 minutes walk from downtown, there is a large, deserted memorial park. Originally an Austro-Hungarian fort, it was rebuilt and converted into a memorial for the victims of the second world war. And like the rest of the city, it was destroyed during the most recent war.

The fact that the park is situated exactly on the line that divides the Bosnian federation from Republika Srpska makes it difficult for either side to take responsibility. Its proximity to town, stunning views and the mountain behind it make it a fantastic location for picnics, concerts and large-scale cultural events – another reminder of how restoring the spirit of togetherness could lead to great things for the city.

Moment in history

When the 1984 Winter Olympic Games were held here, Sarajevo was, for that moment, the centre of the world, basking in the limelight for something good: enthusiasm, happiness and togetherness. Because the mountains are so near, everything was happening right in the city itself, and the atmosphere was suffused with Olympic spirit.

In the more than 30 years since, Sarajevo has undergone an incredible transformation. The bobsleigh track, ski jumps and even some of the hotels have become ruins, picturesque canvases for street art. The days of our Olympic past seem almost like a myth.

Best cultural Instagram

Nedžad Isić presents beautiful absurdities of Sarajevo through pictures of graffiti, street art, back allies, hidden corners and stray dogs. He reveals the city’s humorous, artistic, profound and shadowy side.

Top insider’s tip

For a fantastic 10 days each year, the city truly comes to life for the Sarajevo film festival. We have a saying: “U Sarajevu ne možeš biti zvijezda” (“In Sarajevo, you cannot be a star”), and during the festival everyone feels equal, brushing shoulders with famous artists, actors, film workers and other prominent guests. Even movie stars blend into the friendly, unpretentious atmosphere of those warm, crazy nights.

Worst building

Facebook Twitter Pinterest A former care home that was burned out in the war. Photograph: Dražen Huterer

On the outskirts of the city is this eerie dwelling, a home for the elderly until it was burned out in the war. Property-related bureaucracy has kept this very noticeable building in a state of ruin for an incredible 20 years, waiting to be demolished. Today, it seems like a surrealist expression. Ever since the war, the appearance of the city has changed, but buildings like this act as an unconscious reminder of the state of society beneath.

Best local artist

Rikardo Druškić is a self-taught illustrator and digital artist whose intriguing simplicity has captivated admirers. At only 26 years old, his art has been displayed on New York’s Times Square and in art competitions in LA, Miami and Taipei, and he is one of the main participants at the Sarajevo Street Art festival (FUU).

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Street artist Rikardo Druškić. Photograph: Dražen Huterer

What does your city do better than anywhere else?

Jokes. Sarajevo was always famous for its sense of humour. People here have excellent ways of laughing in the face of adversities, and even during the war, black humour helped people keep their minds clear.

That kind of attitude is what makes this place so unpretentious. It changes even the most serious of situations in an instant, and makes people open and welcoming, despite all their problems.

How green is your city?

For a city surrounded so closely by mountains, Sarajevo is remarkably un-green. The city sits in a basin, and unregulated urban planning, coal fires and a large number of (mainly old) cars creates bad air pollution. To make matters worse, almost all the trees were cut down during the war and very few replaced. At the end of last year, a thick smog hovered over the city for over a month, with only the hilly parts of Sarajevo spared.

Five to follow

Billain

Ziyah Gafić

Damir Nikšić

International Theater Festival MESS

Amira Medunjanin

From me

Dražen is an investigative journalist from Sarajevo who has reported on war crimes and Bosnian transition. He always has his camera by his side, and one day hopes to make a documentary. You can see some of his photos here.



Facebook Twitter Pinterest Dražen Huterer. Photograph: Vivijen Zovko

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