



1 / 29 Chevron Chevron Photographed by Adam Ianniello A young man in a traditional military uniform watches the horse races during Nadaam

From the passenger seat of an old Toyota van, Mongolia’s scenery seems to change with the breeze: Rocky lunar landscapes give way to rolling grasslands, while purple mountains crumble into flaming red cliffs. It is not uncommon to see herds of roaming camels or wild horses running in the distance.

As we drive, I chat with Aldar, my 20-year-old translator, travel guide, and companion. He was born and raised in Mongolia, and has just completed his freshman year at the university in Ulaanbaatar. Like many young people in his country, Aldar embodies a world in flux. He wears black jeans, black leather boots, and a traditional Mongolian tunic. His black hat is in constant danger of blowing away in the wind.

Aldar speaks five languages, although he says Mongolian doesn’t count. He loves YouTube and the American singer Lana del Rey—neither of which his parents, who came of age during Mongolia’s socialist era, understand. “When my friends and I switch our conversation to English, old people on public transportation look at us funny,” he says. “But they just don’t understand. Memes are too hard to translate into Mongolian.”