Bourbon can be made anywhere in the United States, not just in Kentucky, though that state and a handful of big distillers, who comprise dozens of different brands, account for roughly 90 percent of the world’s bourbon. By law, bourbon must be distilled from grains made up of at least 51 percent corn, and the whiskey must be stored in charred new oak barrels before bottling at 80 proof or higher. If it is aged in charred oak for two years or more, it qualifies as straight bourbon whiskey.

It is easy to understand the appeal of small craft distillers. Given the perception that corporate ownership diminishes the so-called authenticity of foods and beverages by focusing more on profits and efficiency than quality and craftsmanship, connoisseurs may be drawn to those distillers the way they are to microbrewers and family wine estates. Throw in the attraction of the local — small distilleries can be found all over the country, with more than 30 in New York State alone — and you have a formula for obsession. Of our top 10 bourbons, five came from New York, two from Colorado and one each from Tennessee, Ohio and Illinois.

Yet, as the panel found previously with gin, craft distillers are not automatically successful with bourbon. Or, to be more precise, newer distillers are not always better bourbon producers.

Partly, this may be a function of expertise. The big producers have decades of bourbon-making experience, and, as the marketing term “small batch” indicates, they are not always producing vast quantities. But it’s also literally a question of aging. Start-up distillers do not often have the luxury of aging their spirits as long as they may like, not when they need cash to start flowing. Younger whiskeys have their attractions, but by and large they tend to be fiery and aggressive, while smooth complexity generally comes from time in the barrel.

Indeed, many of the bourbons in our lineup seemed raw and unrefined, tasting more of cereal and grains than more-developed whiskey flavors, though our favorites surprised us with their complexity. In 2007, our top bourbons had plenty of age, at least eight years for most and 20 for the top-ranked Pappy Van Winkle. This time, none of our top 10 included an age statement.

“It’s almost unfair to judge them at this point,” Robert said. “It’s still a nascent industry. We’ll see where they are in 10 years.”

Image No. 2: Kings County Distillery Bourbon Credit... Tony Cenicola/The New York Times

Nonetheless, they are in the market, and at super-premium prices, so they are fair game for judgment.