So what excited him during his Richmond excursion? The unmistakable scent of toasted Indian spices in, of all places, a diner at lunchtime; the way humble ingredients, such as fried catfish and margarine-laden mac ’n’ cheese, capture the flavors of an entire region of the country; the innocent way salt coaxes flavors out of rich chocolate cake; and how simple foods like biscuits, often served as sides, can be shining stars when treated with loving care and a steely focus toward perfection.

In short, he said, Richmond has two things going for it: a food scene with restaurants that offer well-marketed menus featuring locally sourced foods and farmers and chef-driven initiatives and other trendy practices, but also those other places where chefs and cooks simply throw caution to the wind, cook what they love and tell you to eat it because it’s good.

“Richmond’s got something going on,” Khan said, and made the comparison between Richmond and places such as Charleston, S.C., where “their restaurants carry such strong impressions.” What makes Richmond special, he added, appears to be that consumers’ high expectations for their dining experiences are being met by good food options all across town.

And, in many cases, at very reasonable prices. Like the “light as air” jalapeño queso fresco biscuit with cilantro creme he ate at Early Bird.

For just a few bucks, Khan said, “it was like the amuse-bouche of cheap eats.”