Friday

1) 5 p.m. Panoramic passeggiata

A passeggiata, or evening walk, around the perimeter of Ortigia reveals many notable structures and stories. Start from the Parco Letterario Elio Vittorini, on the eastern side, and head clockwise. As waves crash against the rocks below the sea wall, you’ll pass crenelated lookout points and the chiseled facade of the 17th-century Chiesa dello Spirito Santo , before finding yourself in the palm-planted gardens of the 13th-century Castello Maniace. Continuing up the western side leads you to the spot where the goddess Artemis is said to have transformed a nymph into a natural spring — the Arethusa Fountain — and then to another haven of liquids: an outdoor seaside bar called Fratelli Burgio al Porto. A bright orange Aperol spritz costs 7 euros, or about $7.75. The matching sunset is free.

2) 8 p.m. Don’t fight the fruit

“Waiter! There are raisins in my vegetable medley!” Please don’t say this when your caponata arrives. The raisins are supposed to be there, along with the pine nuts, tangy vinegar-sugar reduction, and slow-stewed eggplant, red peppers, tomatoes and other local vegetables. After all, you’ve ordered a classic Sicilian dish with one of the finest sweet-savory mash-ups north of Morocco, and the rustic-chic Oinos restaurant crafts it with the subtle spices and flavors it deserves. The comfort-food menu also includes a sculptural tower of eggplant parmigiana, a succulent, fat-lined slab of pork in sage butter, and a beef filet covered with a purple sauce of local Nero d’Avola wine. A three-course dinner for two costs around 80 euros.