Cauliflower’s moment in the sun as a food fad came to an abrupt halt a few years ago when someone sliced it crosswise and called it a cauliflower steak.

Cauliflower is not a steak. There is nothing steaklike about cauliflower. And while we’re at it, you know those cauliflower-based pizza crusts that they say don’t taste like cauliflower? They taste like cauliflower.

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That said, I love cauliflower, except in its steak and pizza applications.

One friend of mine calls cauliflower the tofu of vegetables, because it soaks up and takes on the flavor of anything it is with. And that is true when it is served with a cheesy or spicy sauce. But when it is served by itself, unadorned, it has a mildly nutty flavor all its own.

Roasted Cauliflower

Yield: 4 servings

1 pound cauliflower, about 1 medium-large head, trimmed and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices

1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Sea salt

Coarsely ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place cauliflower in a large mixing bowl. Pour on just enough olive oil to coat. Season generously with salt and pepper and toss gently until evenly coated.

2. Lay cauliflower pieces out on a baking sheet. Drizzle any remaining oil from the bowl on top. Bake, turning once, until caramelized on edges and tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, as a side dish. You can also sprinkle it with a very good aged vinegar. Or, cut florets into smaller pieces and add to salads.

Cauliflower Cheese Pie

Yield: 4 to 5 servings

For the crust

2 cups (packed) grated raw potato

1/4 cup grated onion

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 egg white, lightly beaten

1 tablespoon oil

For the filling

1 tablespoon olive oil or butter

1 cup chopped onion

2 medium garlic cloves, minced

1/2 teaspoon salt

Black pepper, to taste

1/2 teaspoon dried basil

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme

1 medium cauliflower, cut into florets

1 cup (packed) grated cheddar

2 eggs

1/4 cup milk

Paprika

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

2. For the crust: Combine grated potato, onion, salt and egg white in a small bowl, and mix well. Transfer to a pie pan and pat into place with lightly floured fingers, building up the sides into a handsome edge.

3. Bake for 30 minutes, then brush crust with 1 tablespoon of oil (or less) and bake it 10 more minutes. Remove from oven and lower temperature to 375 degrees.

4. For the filling: Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil or butter in a large skillet. Add onion, garlic, salt, pepper, basil and thyme, and sauté over medium heat for about 5 minutes. Add cauliflower, stir and cover. Cook until tender, stirring occasionally, about 8 to 10 minutes.

5. Spread half the cheese onto the baked crust. Spoon the sautéed vegetables on top, then sprinkle on the remaining cheese. Beat the eggs and milk together and pour over the top. Dust lightly with paprika.

6. Bake 35 to 40 minutes, or until set. Serve hot or warm.

Cauliflower With Potatoes (Gobi Aloo)

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

1 large cauliflower

2 to 3 medium potatoes, peeled

8 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 medium-sized onions, finely chopped

2-inch piece of ginger, peeled and cut into very fine slices and then into very fine slivers

2 medium tomatoes, grated or finely chopped

1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1 to 1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon garam masala

1. Break the cauliflower into medium-sized florets. Cut the potatoes lengthwise into halves and then cut each have lengthwise into roughly 3 pieces to get chunky fries.

2. Heat the oil in a wok or large frying pan over medium heat. When oil starts to shimmer, add the potatoes and fry until they are medium-brown and just barely cooked through. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Put the florets in the same oil and fry until just barely cooked through. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Remove all but 3 tablespoons of the oil from the wok or pan.

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3. Add the onions and stir until they are light brown. Add the ginger and continue to stir and fry until the onions are medium-brown. Add the tomatoes and keep frying until they turn soft and darker, and the oil seems to separate from the sauce. Add the cayenne pepper, turmeric, coriander, cumin and salt. Stir and fry for 1 minute.

4. Return the potatoes and florets to the pan. Stir to mix gently. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon of water over the vegetables. Cover. Reduce heat to low and cook gently for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garam masala. Stir gently to mix, and serve.