No crumb left behind 33 ways to make the most of every loaf

Bread in San Francisco, Calif., on February 26, 2009. Bread in San Francisco, Calif., on February 26, 2009. Photo: Craig Lee, The Chronicle Photo: Craig Lee, The Chronicle Image 1 of / 5 Caption Close No crumb left behind 1 / 5 Back to Gallery

Leftover bread is so important in my pantry that if I don't have any on hand, I'll buy a loaf and dry it out in the oven. Then it's perfect to toast and tear into pieces to add to an arugula salad, or turn into buttered breadcrumbs for the first of the season's asparagus. Usually though, I have an assortment of leftover bread on hand - past-their-prime croissants ready to turn into a sweet bread pudding, or rosemary or ciabatta bread for a savory version.

Growing up, I had little experience with leftover bread. My mother used to make a custardy bread pudding with Langendorf's soft white bread and would tear bits of it into her meat loaf mixture. She scolded my father for eating bowls of "blue milk and bread," which was bread sprinkled with sugar and milk poured over it. I never tasted it, but I saw that it got soggy very quickly.

However, when I lived in Provence I learned the importance of not only really, really fresh bread, but also of good stale bread. My neighbors bought fresh bread at least once and sometimes twice a day, and there were almost always leftovers. It was saved, stored in the pantry in big paper bags or plastic buckets and used to make crumbs, croutons, toasts and stuffings, and to feed the dogs, goats and chickens.

When I was teaching cooking classes in Provence a few years ago, Craig Ponsford, the baker-owner of Artisan Breads in Sonoma, came to visit, and a local baker kindly let us make baguettes in his bakery, using Craig's recipes and techniques. We made about 50 or 60 baguettes because we had to make a batch big enough to engage the equipment, which of course was far more than my cooking school guests could eat, but there was no waste. Craig and I delivered loaves throughout the countryside, despite a drenching spring rain. Everyone was curious to sample the American's bread and they also, as always, welcomed extra bread for their pantry.

Here in the Bay Area we have access to a rich selection of artisan breads, and I buy them all. Ciabatta, Italian batard, black olive, green olive, rosemary, plain baguettes, sesame seed baguettes, rye, brioche, croissants - the list goes on and on.

I keep a bag of dried odds and ends of bread in my freezer to make dried breadcrumbs, to soak for bread puddings, and to stuff poultry, pork chops and chickens. I cut up bread for croutons before it gets so hard it shatters, and these, too, go in the freezer.

Virtually every type of bread can be used for crumbs, croutons, toasts, stuffings, to thicken soups, even lighten (and stretch) ground meat. Each bread brings its individual characteristic. Croutons made with leftover rosemary bread, for example, impart a different flavor to a stuffed chicken or a tossed salad than croutons made from olive bread. Delicate croutons made from brioche make quite a different garnish for carrot soup than sturdy, rustic ones made from an Italian batard.

Having plenty of leftover bread, in all its myriad forms, makes me feel secure, knowing there is always something good to eat that I can make using the most basic food.

More ideas for leftover bread

4. Garlic-rubbed toasts. Place slices of day-old bread on a baking sheet and bake at 300°. When nearly crispy, about 10 minutes, drizzle with olive oil, then bake another 5 minutes, until golden. Rub slices with the cut side of half a garlic clove. Let cool, then store in plastic bags or containers in the freezer for up to 6 weeks or in a paper bag in a dry environment for up to 5 days.

5. Fresh breadcrumbs. Tear or grate crustless slices or chunks of medium-stale bread. These crumbs are larger than dried and still have a little moisture. For finer crumbs, use a blender or food processor; the slices or chunks may periodically get stuck on the blades, so you'll have to keep resetting. Store in plastic bags or containers in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, in a freezer for up to 6 weeks or in a paper bag, in a dry environment, for up to a week. To make buttered breadcrumbs, melt 1 tablespoon butter in a frying pan and add 1/2 cup breadcrumbs, stirring until golden, about 2 minutes.

6. Dried breadcrumbs. When the leftover bread is really hard and really dry, put the slices or chunks in a blender or food processor. For small amounts, grate the bread on a hand grater or place it between sheets of waxed paper or aluminum foil, and crush to the desired size with a rolling pin. Store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks, in the freezer for up to 6 weeks or in a paper bag, in a dry environment, for up to a week. For buttered dry breadcrumbs, see above.

7. Homemade croutons. Cut day-old bread into 1/2-inch cubes or larger. Toss with olive oil and spread out on a baking sheet. Bake in a 300° oven until lightly golden, about 20 minutes. Stir the bread around, drizzle with more olive oil, if necessary, and continue baking until fully golden, about another 10 to 15 minutes. Remove and let cool. Store in plastic bags or containers in the freezer for up to 6 weeks or in a paper bag, in a dry environment, for up to 5 days.

Appetizers

8. Sprinkle toasted buttered breadcrumbs over deviled eggs.

9. Spread tapenade on garlic toasts.

10. Cut garlic toasts into triangles and use for dips.

Soups

11. Place garlic-rubbed toast in the bottom of a soup bowl and ladle minestrone, white bean or other thick soup over the bread.

12. Ladle French onion, fresh fava bean or beef barley soup into ovenproof bowls, top with a slice of garlic-rubbed bread, sprinkle each with a tablespoon or so of Gruyere and a teaspoon of Parmesan cheese, and bake in a 350° oven until the edges of the toasts are brown and the cheese bubbling, about 15 minutes.

13. Top any soup with homemade croutons.

Vegetables

14. Top tomato halves with a mixture of minced garlic, dry breadcrumbs, salt, pepper and parsley. Dot with butter or drizzle with olive oil and bake at 400° until the tomatoes are soft, about 15 to 20 minutes.

15. Pack steamed broccoli into a buttered baking dish and sprinkle with a mixture of fresh breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, and dot with butter. Bake at 350° until the topping is golden, about 15 minutes.

16. Mix thinly sliced young zucchini with shredded Gruyere cheese and season with salt and pepper. Soak two or three slices of day-old bread, crusts removed, in milk. Squeeze the milk out and mix the soft bread with the zucchini and cheese. Mix again with a beaten egg. Put in a buttered or oil-greased baking dish, shower with fresh or dry breadcrumbs and a sprinkle of Gruyere, and dot with butter. Bake at 350° until puffed and golden, about 30 minutes.

17. Dip sliced green tomatoes in egg, then in breadcrumbs seasoned with salt and pepper and fry about 2 minutes per side.

Pastas

18. Toss spaghetti with olive oil, buttered breadcrumbs, parsley and anchovies.

19. Drizzle cooked penne or bow-tie pasta with 2 to 3 tablespoons of olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Chop fresh tomatoes or cut cherry tomatoes in half to make 1 cup. Add this to the pasta along with a tablespoon or two of chopped parsley and 1/4 cup pitted olives. Tear two or three garlic toasts into pieces and add to the pasta. Toss and serve with a bowl of freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Fish & shellfish

20. Brush whole trout with butter. Roll in seasoned breadcrumbs and bake in a 400° oven until the crust is golden and the meat pulls easily from the bone, about 12 to 15 minutes.

21. Mix a large can of salmon with 2 eggs, minced green pepper, minced green onions, a dash of Worcestershire sauce, a little cayenne, salt and pepper. Add 1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs. Pack the mixture into ramekins or a baking dish, top with more breadcrumbs and dot with butter. Bake at 350° until heated through and the top is golden.

Meat & poultry

22. Saute 1 pound of lean ground beef with half a chopped onion, 3 or 4 cloves of chopped garlic, 1 stalk chopped celery, 1 stalk chopped carrot. Add 1/2 cup dried breadcrumbs and a tablespoon of tomato sauce or cream. Steam 8 large cabbage leaves until limp. Lay some of the stuffing mixture down the center of each cabbage leaf and fold, envelope fashion. Place seam-side down, snugly fitting, in a baking dish. Cover with tomato sauce and bake until bubbly and heated through. Serve with rice or pasta.

23. Mix 1 pound of ground veal with 1 egg, 1/2 to 3/4 cup dry breadcrumbs, salt, pepper, 1 teaspoon chopped parsley, 2 tablespoons drained, chopped capers, 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves. Shape into golf ball-size meatballs. Bring a pan of chicken or other broth to a boil, along with a bay leaf, a half carrot and half stalk of celery. Reduce to a simmer, add the meatballs and poach until cooked through, about 12 minutes. Remove and serve hot with rice and braised greens.

24. Roll 1 pound of 1 1/2-inch-cubed chicken breast or pork in breadcrumbs seasoned with salt and pepper. Fry them in olive oil until cooked through, about 6 or 7 minutes. Remove to a paper towel to drain. In the bottom of a bowl, make a vinaigrette with 2 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well. Coarsely chop 4 large tomatoes. Place tomatoes and their juices in a bowl. Add 2 handfuls of baby arugula and 2 handfuls of garlic croutons or torn garlic toasts. Add the warm chicken and toss well.

25. Dip 4 pork cutlets in beaten egg, dredge in flour and then in dry breadcrumbs. Saute in butter and scatter with drained capers.

Salads

26. Make a vinaigrette in the bottom of a salad bowl. Add 4 handfuls of frisee, white parts, primarily. Top with fried garlic toast and a poached egg.

27. Make a vinaigrette in the bottom of a bowl, adding crushed garlic, a little Dijon mustard. Crush 3 or 4 anchovy fillets into the mixture. Tear 2 hearts of romaine into bite-size pieces. Toss well. Top with croutons of your choice.

28. Make a salad with romaine, walnuts and apples. Dress with a white balsamic vinaigrette and toss with torn toasts of walnut bread.

29. Make a Dungeness crab salad and serve it on top of brioche toasts.

30. Make a vinaigrette in the bottom of a bowl. Add 3 cups torn escarole leaves, inner ivory colored parts only, 1/2 cup Gruyere cheese cubes, 1/4 cup toasted walnuts, 3 or 4 slices fried bacon, crumbled, and 1 cup homemade croutons.

31. Place several thin toasts on a platter. Top with thin slices of raw or seared beef tenderloin, a handful of arugula, a sprinkle of shaved Parmesan cheese and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil.

Desserts

32. Make a favorite bread pudding using brioche bread, dried nectarines and raisins.

33. Soak 4 thick slices of brioche or challah in 2 to 3 beaten eggs until saturated, about 2 minutes, turning once. Fry the slices in butter and serve with kumquats, cherries or other fruits in syrup.

Inside: For recipes and ideas, see Page E4

Crumbs Add fresh or dry breadcrumbs to meat loaf, use in stuffings; sprinkle buttered breadcrumbs over the season's first asparagus.

Slices Toast and float in a bowl of soup; spread with tapenade for an appetizer or serve with dips.

Cubes Coat with olive oil and toast; toss into salads, soups; use in sweet and savory bread puddings.

3. Savory Bread Pudding with Asparagus Serves 6 to 8 Save up your leftover bread for a week or so, especially the ends and slices from baguettes and any pieces of specialty breads such as focaccia. Let them get good and dry. Heavy, chewy breads make a dense pudding and lighter breads result in a softer, more traditional texture. Served with slices of smoky ham or grilled salmon fillets, this pudding is a good late breakfast or brunch dish. 8 to 12 thick slices dry bread

2 1/2 to 3 cups milk

1 pound asparagus

5 eggs

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as chives, parsley, tarragon or sage, thyme and marjoram

1/4 cup freshly grated Romano cheese

4 ounces fontina cheese, slivered

4 ounces Swiss cheese, slivered

1 tablespoon butter, cut into small bits + more for greasing baking dish Ingredients: Place the bread in a shallow dish. Pour 2 1/2 cups milk over the top. Let soak until the bread has absorbed the milk and become soft, about 30 minutes. Press the bread slices to extract the milk and pour into a measuring cup. You should have 1/2 cup milk left over after squeezing. If not, make up the difference with the additional 1/2 cup milk, as needed. Reserve the milk and set aside. Trim the asparagus, removing the woody ends. Cut the stalks on the diagonal into thin slivers each about 2 inches long and 3/8-inch thick. Arrange the slivered asparagus on a steamer rack and place over gently boiling water. Cover and steam until barely tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Immediately place the asparagus under cold running water. Drain and set aside. Preheat an oven to 350°. Butter a 3-quart mold, such as a souffle dish. In a bowl, beat together the eggs, salt, pepper and reserved 1/2 cup milk until well blended. In the prepared dish, layer one-third of the bread. Set 6 to 8 asparagus slivers aside and top the bread layer with half the remaining asparagus and half the mixed herbs. Layer one-third of each of the cheeses over the asparagus. Repeat the layers, using half the remaining bread, all of the remaining asparagus and herbs, and half the remaining cheese. Arrange the remaining bread on top, the remaining cheese over it and garnish with the reserved asparagus slivers. Pour the milk-egg mixture over the layers then dot with the butter. Bake until the top is crusty brown and a knife inserted into the middle of the pudding comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Per serving: 310 calories, 19 g protein, 21 g carbohydrate, 17 g fat (9 g saturated), 180 mg cholesterol, 687 mg sodium, 2 g fiber.

2. Croissant & Walnut Bread Pudding Serves 8-10 This is a voluptuous version of bread pudding, rich and sweet. When served warm as a dessert, with a vanilla sauce or ice cream, it makes an elegant finale. 3 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 1/2 cups sugar

4 cups milk

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 eggs, lightly beaten

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

3 to 4 day-old croissants, halved

2 cups walnut halves Instructions: Preheat an oven to 350°. Using 1/2 tablespoon of the butter, grease a standard loaf pan or other similar-size baking dish. Set aside 6 tablespoons of the sugar. Pour the milk into a large bowl and add the vanilla, eggs, remaining sugar and the salt. Mix well. Add the croissants and let stand until they are thoroughly softened. Set aside 6 walnut halves and coarsely chop the rest. Arrange a layer of croissants in the bottom of the prepared pan. Sprinkle it with one-third of the chopped walnuts, then pour about one-fourth of the egg-milk mixture over the walnuts. Repeat twice, pushing the layers down as you go and ending with a layer of bread. Cut 1 tablespoon of the butter into small pieces and dot the top layer of bread. Pour the remaining egg-milk mixture over the top layer. Finely chop the reserved walnuts, combine them with the remaining 6 tablespoons sugar, and sprinkle the mixture evenly over the top. Cut the remaining 2 tablespoons butter into small pieces and use to dot the surface. Bake until a knife inserted into the middle of the pudding comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Serve hot or warm, scooped out into bowls. Per serving: 721 calories, 16 g protein, 77 g carbohydrate, 41 g fat (14 g saturated), 168 mg cholesterol, 506 mg sodium, 2 g fiber.