When I wandered into the Gansevoort Market location in February, it seemed clear that Mr. Chávez could run an interesting restaurant if he ever decided to put his food into something other than recyclable salad bowls. Then, at the beginning of the summer, he did just that, opening a sit-down restaurant on the Upper East Side with real plates and bowls.

The new space is not particularly large or lavish, but compared with the earlier efforts, Mission Ceviche Restaurant & Bar is a palace. There is seating for 65 or so people beneath a wall sculpture of a fish that glows from behind and a pink neon sign that reads “tiger milk effect,” probably a reference to the belief that drinking leftover leche de tigre can put extra topspin on sexual performance.

The menu now paints a slightly fuller picture of Peruvian cuisine, extending into new foods including the grilled skewers known as anticuchos. Mr. Chávez dresses up the country’s most popular anticucho, grilled beef heart, brushing it with a creamy rocoto sauce and serving it with newly fried blue potato chips and kernels of choclo corn. The trio of rocoto, blue potatoes and choclo is so solidly Peruvian that it can withstand the chimichurri that Mr. Chávez brings in, by way of Argentina, as a final touch. He clearly has a soft spot for chimichurri because he deploys it again with the shrimp anticuchos (the shrimp are very big and look even bigger because they’re grilled with their heads on), served with a squirt of huancaína, the spicy yellow cheese sauce that is something like Peru’s version of queso dip.

My favorite anticucho is a more straightforward situation, grilled scallops under arugula, lime zest and a smooth Parmesan fondue. But Mr. Chávez has the ability to put several flavors in motion at once and keep his balance, as evidenced by the beef-heart skewer and his octopus causa. This is, reduced to bare bones, a tendril of octopus curled around a disc of mashed potatoes. But the potatoes, seasoned with lime and yellow chiles, are coated in a smooth lavender-colored sauce made from Peruvian black olives; the octopus has been rubbed with cumin, oregano and ají panca paste and grilled to a crackle; the plate is decorated with a few wobbly curls of paper made with purple Peruvian potatoes.