Christmas shopping season is well under way, and if you have a vegan or a Meatless Monday fan on your gift list you probably need some help sorting through all the new cookbooks that arrived in 2012.

And what a batch of great cookbooks! As veganism becomes increasingly mainstream, publishers are releasing titles designed to appeal to more than just hard-core plant eaters.

This year lots of vegan cookbooks focused on the nutritional and ecological benefits of eating lower on the food chain, and the number of cookbooks aimed at families continues to grow.

With so many titles to choose from, narrowing it to five favorites proved daunting. But these are the cookbooks that rose above the rest for me. I can guarantee that I'll be turning to these for inspiration for years to come.

by Roberto Martin: How do celebrities such as Ellen Degeneres and Portia de Rossi eat at home? Very well, it seems, thanks to this collection of 125 recipes from their personal chef, Roberto Martin. When he started cooking for the power couple a few years ago he wasn't a vegan chef. But he quickly discovered that the flavors he loved from many nonvegan dishes translated beautifully to plant-based cooking. Using classical techniques, he set out to create food that anyone could enjoy without ever missing the meat. The results should appeal to people trying to eat more vegan meals, if not make the switch entirely.

Though most of us can only fantasize what it's like to have a private chef, you get a sense of the experience through Martin's personal stories that accompany each recipe. And the introductions from both Degeneres and de Rossi add to the fun.

Recipe to try:

Beluga Lentil Caviar on Blini, a celebratory appetizer that would be perfect with a glass of Champagne on New Year's Eve.

by Julie Morris: In the past few years a lot of attention has been given to superfoods like kale, quinoa and pomegranates, thanks to the growing evidence that they can help fight illness, inflammation and the effects of aging. In the hands of natural food chef Julie Morris they're taken to beautiful new heights with delicious dishes that are elegantly presented, as well as loaded with antioxidants, vitamins and healthy minerals.

Before she gets cooking, Morris offers a detailed look at the superfood pantry, offering explanations of the benefits that come from eating things such as mulberries (heart health and longevity), chia seeds (better mental function) and cacao (loads of antioxidants). Then she uses them to create 100-plus whole-food dishes made without faux meats or processed ingredients. This is one I'll be reaching for as I strive to eat more cleanly.

Recipe to try:

Kabocha-Quinoa Risotto With Sage Cream and Sun-Dried Yacon Root, a comforting use for the king of the winter squashes.

by Terry Hope Romero: As the co-author of the best-selling and venerable cookbook "Veganomicon," Terry Hope Romero is one of the rock stars of the vegan cooking world. That sets high expectations for her follow-up books, and she continues to deliver with this collection of 300 recipes inspired by dishes from around the world. Romero offers flavors from places including Jamaica, Egypt and Morocco, and many recipes are easy enough for busy weeknights.

Like her previous solo effort "Viva Vegan!," a collection of Latin American recipes, Romero doesn't shy from using spicy ingredients. Her curries have punch, and her Ethiopian stews pack some seriously friendly fire. You won't confuse vegan with blah after enjoying her creations.

Recipe to try:

Fresh Wheat Noodles in Miso Broth, a one-bowl wonder inspired by Korean udon noodle soups.

by Dreena Burton: When I first transitioned to a vegan diet, one of the books that helped me make the switch was Dreena Burton's "Eat, Drink and Be Vegan," because it proved how fun plant-based cooking could be. With her latest cookbook she shows how attractive vegan eating can be for the whole family. As a stay-at-home mom of three children, Burton created recipes that are kid-friendly while offering complex flavors that will please adult palates. It's a difficult balance to strike, but Burton makes it look easy.

If you have a sweet tooth take note: Burton offers three full chapters of cookies, pies and cakes, along with 10 homemade ice creams. She says a dish of frozen scoops is her favorite dessert, and it shows.

Recipe to try:

Double Chocolate Chippers, a wheat-free cookie that's so foolproof it can make nonbakers feel like pros.

by Joseph Shuldiner: With just 70 recipes this debut cookbook from Joseph Shuldiner doesn't cover as much culinary territory as the other books on my list. But I can't think of the last time a cookbook crossed my desk where I wanted to cook it from cover to cover. With gorgeous photography illustrating almost every recipe this shows how cooking a rainbow of ingredients can create plates loaded with color and flavor. Though many of the recipes are easy, Shuldiner shines with the ones that require a few extra steps, creating layers of complex flavor that reward the extra effort.

One of the things I really like about "Pure Vegan" is that it isn't "Puritanical Vegan." Shuldiner would rather eat than argue about it, so he skips rants about food politics or ethics and goes straight into good cooking that's anything but self-deprivation. After a contentious political year, here's an idea: Let's just have a lovely supper. We can have a food fight some other time.

Recipe to try:

Polenta With Wild Mushrooms, Hazelnuts and Figs, a dish that would be perfect for a dinner party or Christmas dinner.

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Recipe

Polenta with Wild Mushrooms, Hazelnuts and Figs

Makes 4 servings

"Pure Vegan" author Joseph Shuldiner lives in Los Angeles, but the combination of wild mushrooms, hazelnuts, figs and thyme evokes the earthy flavors of Oregon. The preparation may seem a bit elaborate, but it's worth the effort, particularly if you're having guests over. To save time you can prepare the polenta and lentils a day ahead.

Figs:

1 cup black currant juice or 100 percent pomegranate juice

4 dried black Mission figs, stemmed

Dressing:

Reserved black currant juice from the figs

1 1/2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

Juice of 1/2 lime

2 teaspoons minced shallot

1 tablespoon crème de cassis or other berry liqueur (optional)

1 tablespoon red wine

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup hazelnut oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Polenta and mushrooms:

9 cups water (divided)

Salt

2 cups polenta

1 cup French green lentils, rinsed and drained

Freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped shallot

10 ounces mixed wild mushrooms (such as oyster, chanterelle and stemmed shiitake), thinly sliced

2 tablespoons hazelnuts, toasted and finely chopped (see note)

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

Baby lettuce, arugula or microgreens, for garnish

To make figs:

In a small saucepan, bring the black currant or pomegranate juice to a boil over high heat. Add the figs and let stand off heat for 30 minutes. Drain, reserving the juice, and coarsely chop the figs.

To make dressing:

In a small saucepan, heat the reserved black currant or pomegranate juice over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced to about 2 tablespoons, 20 to 30 minutes. Transfer the reduction to a blender. Add the mustard, lime juice, shallot, crème de cassis, wine and vinegar and blend until smooth. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the hazelnut oil and blend until the mixture is thick and smooth. Season with salt and pepper, then transfer to a squeeze bottle or bowl.

To make polenta and mushrooms:

Lightly coat a 9-inch square baking pan with olive oil. In a large saucepan, combine 6 cups of the water and about 1/2 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then slowly add the polenta, whisking constantly and vigorously to break up any lumps. Lower the heat to maintain a gentle boil and cook, stirring occasionally, until very thick and pulling away from the sides of the pan, about 20 minutes. Pour the polenta into the prepared pan and use the back of a wet spoon or a wet spatula to spread it in an even, flat layer and smooth the surface. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, at least 15 minutes.

Put the lentils in a medium saucepan and add the remaining 3 cups water. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat and simmer until soft, 30 to 45 minutes. Drain, then season with salt and pepper.

In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the shallot and mushrooms and sauté until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the figs, hazelnuts and thyme and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes.

Preheat a grill to medium-high (see note) or heat a grill pan on the stovetop over medium-high heat. Cut four 3-inch circles of polenta using a biscuit cutter, drinking glass or a large can with the top and bottom removed. (Save the scraps for another use.) Brush olive oil on both sides of the polenta rounds and grill until bottoms are browned and the polenta no longer sticks to the grill, about 5 minutes. Turn and grill the other side until browned, about 5 minutes.

If the lentils and mushrooms have cooled, reheat as needed. Spoon one-fourth of the lentils in a 4-inch pool in the center of each plate. Place a polenta round on top of the lentils. Spoon one-fourth of the mushroom mixture over the polenta, then top with a few leaves of the baby lettuce.

Drizzle 2 to 3 tablespoons of the dressing over the top and around each plate and serve immediately, with the remaining dressing alongside.

Note:

To toast hazelnuts, spread the shelled nuts in a shallow pan and roast in a 350-degree oven for 8 to 10 minutes or until the skins crack. Rub warm nuts with a rough cloth or between your hands to remove as much skin as possible.

Note:

To check grill temperature, count the seconds you can hold your hand, palm side down, 2 to 3 inches above the rack, until it feels uncomfortable: 3 seconds for medium-high.

-- From "Pure Vegan" by Joseph Shuldiner

PER SERVING: calories: 1034 (41% from fat); protein: 25.4 grams; total fat: 47.6 grams; saturated fat: 4.6 grams; cholesterol: 0; sodium: 697 mg; carbohydrate: 133 grams; dietary fiber: 24.4 grams