GRAND SEIKO THE WORLD’S BEST

The original Grand Seiko watch and the line of watches that followed would be a game-changer for the Japanese watchmaker. The Grand Seiko range would prove that Seiko was capable of producing quality watches that could compete with and even exceed those produced by Swiss watch manufacturers.

Before the introduction of Grand Seiko, high-end watch consumers did not think highly of the company despite Seiko producing quality watches and bagging awards.[1] The Seiko Crown and Chronos movements both were at the peak of Japanese technology, but the Grand Seiko turned it from an inferior watch manufacturer to a major player in the luxury watch market.

The “grand” moniker would be significant for this change. It mirrored the company’s goal of creating “the best luxury watch in the world.” In 1960, the company’s Suwa division was tasked to create the best watch it could possibly make at that time.[1]

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GRAND SEIKO AT THE OLYMPICS

The timing of the Grand Seiko’s introduction to the market also proved crucial to its success. The Grand Seiko Chronometer Cal. 5722 was introduced in 1964, the year Tokyo hosted the 18th Olympiad.[2]

Seiko served as the event’s official timer. The company brought simple countdown chronographs with Cal 5718A movements and mono-pusher chronographs with Cal 5717 and Cal 5719 movements.[3]

Because of its successful participation at the Olympics, Seiko finally gained international respect and credibility.

Seiko is the official timer of the 1964 Olympics

VYING FOR HIGHEST ACCURACY

The 1964 Olympic Games was only the beginning of Seiko’s quest to leave a permanent mark on the high-end watch market. The company entered the Grand Seiko into the Neuchatel chronometer testing from the year the watch was released until the trials ended.[1] The Neuchatel observatory rated and ranked the movements that it tested, making it possible to see which ones were most accurate.

When Seiko first joined the international competition, it placed 144th. Three years later, in 1967, Seiko moved into the top 10. When the testing stopped in 1968, Seiko was running for first place. Rumor has it the testing ended so Neuchatel could avoid declaring Seiko as the winner in the Swiss chronometer competition. [1]

Undeterred, Seiko joined the equivalent Geneva competition in its quest to win first place. This time around, it wasn’t disappointed. Its Grand Seiko watches ranked 4th to 10th places, making the line’s movements among the most accurate in the world.[1]

GRAND SEIKO PRODUCTION

Production of the Grand Seiko line ran for 12 years. The first Grand Seiko was produced on December 18th 1960 while the last one was made in 1972.[4]

The Suwa Seikosha division produced most of the Grand Seiko watches, except for the 44GS, 45GS, and 45GS VFA movements, which were created by its Daini Seikosha division. The two companies were Seiko’s subsidiaries which produced one brand to improve technology and hedge risk amid tough competition. If one experienced problems in production, the other would simply increase production. Suwa Seikosha became Seiko Epson Corporation, while Daini Seikosha became Seiko Instruments Inc.[5]

Seiko started manufacturing its first-generation Grand Seiko 3180 model in December 1960 at the company’s Suwa factory in Nagano prefecture in central Japan.[4] A total of 36,000 units of the first generation watch were created.

The 57GS movement followed in 1963 with 81,000 units manufactured.[5]

Afterwards, Seiko produced the 44GS and 62GS movements. Released in December 1967, Seiko created 36,000 units of the 61GS line.[6] This was followed by the 45GS, 45GS VFA, 19GS, and 19GS VFA movements from 1968 toward 1970. Finally, Seiko released the last model in this line, a mechanical 56GS, in 1972. [4]

DESIGN

Seiko’s design concept for the Grand Seiko was to create the “ideal watch,” which meant “nothing less than the best luxury watch in the world.”[7, 8] For the company, this meant the Grand Seiko should have its own unique style that would resonate with the high-end market. Specifically, Seiko wanted the Grand Seiko’s style to suit both casual and formal attires.[9]

When the original Grand Seiko watch was created in 1960 by the company’s Suwa Seikosha division, its focus was on quality mechanics. [10] It wasn’t until 1967 when the 44GS movement was released that the “Grand Seiko Style” by designer Taro Tanaka would from then on define the style of the series as well as all future Seiko products.[10]

The Grand Seiko range is also highly valued for its craftsmanship, particularly the traditional way in which the watches are created.[11] Every Grand Seiko watch was polished by hand using the“Zaratsu” technique. This is a traditional way of polishing that Japanese watchmakers use to create watches that have a mirror finish with no distortion. [9, 12]

CLASSICS REVIVED IN LIMITED EDITIONS

The 1967 44GS movement, or “The Grammar of Design”, was so iconic that in 2013, Seiko released a limited edition watch based on it, the Grand Seiko 44GS. The replica or remake was powered by a manual 9S64 movement that closely mimics the original.[3] The limited-edition model had two variants, one was the same as the original (700 units stainless steel) and the other came in white, yellow, and rose gold (70 units each).[13]

The Grand Seiko Historical Collection 62GS was another classic revival. The collection included four limited editions: stainless steel with 600 units produced and three gold variants – yellow gold, rose gold, and white gold – with 100 units each.[14]

The original Grand Seiko 3180 was produced in replica, model number SBGW033, and 1300 units were produced.

VARIATIONS

Although “Grand Seiko” is the name given to the entire range, it could also refer to the original Cal. 3180 model when speaking of particular variations within the range.

THE FIRST GRAND SEIKO

THE 3180 MODEL

L to R: Seiko’s first GS, the 3180; Cal. 3180 movement; an early GS with carved characters on the dial; GS 3180 back case with the lion logo

The 3180 model was based on the “Crown” movement, which featured 25 functional jewels at 18,000 bph and was hand wound.[18] It was the first chronometer grade watch manufactured in Japan and was based on an internal Seiko standard and certification. As such, it had the “Chronometer” label on the dial and a lion logo on the case back. The model number was J14070.

The initial accuracy rate of the 3180 model and the first Grand Seiko standard (-3 to +12 sec/day) was that of the Basel Observatory Chronometer standard at the time, and when this was changed to -1 to +10 sec/day in 1961, the second Grand Seiko standard changed to a slightly different 11 second range (-3 to +8 sec/day). [53,54]

Most of the cases were made from 18k gold-plated (80 microns), although platinum cases were also produced.[5, 52] Rarely, stainless steel cases existed, with the lion symbol on the case back, but with chronometer under, rather than Grand Seiko above.[51,56] It had a snap-type back lid and was non-waterproof. The crown of this model was coarse knurled.

This below is a relatively rare first model 3180 with a carved dial.

The first Grand Seiko with a carved dial

The initial characters on the dial were either printed black or the carved characters as in the image above. This was later changed in 1961 to applied characters in relief as engraving was error-prone and inconsistent. This is the most commonly found dial.[50]

The case back featured an embossed lion with the words Grand Seiko, and the inside case back was engraved 14K Gold Filled J14070 GS.

Above is a Stainless Steel model [56]

Inside case back was engraved Stainless Steel J14070 GS.

THE 57GS MODEL

The 57GS “Self-Dater” variations (from left to right): 5722-9990 with AD Logo, 5722-9990 without AD logo, 5722-9991 also known as the “Calendar Model”, and 5722-9011 in gold

The 57GS “Self-Dater” introduced in 1963 was the only other model that featured “Chronometer” on the dial. After its introduction, Seiko stopped using the label and started implementing the Grand Seiko Standard.[23]

A timeline diagram will show the overlap between models, with an overlap in production between all models.

The 57GS “Self-Dater” was so called because it had a quick set date mechanism. It was the first watch to use a date complication.[3]

The 57GS had four variations: 5722-9990, 5722-9010, 5722-9011, and 5722-9991. The most common variations are the 5722-9990 and the 5722-9991 models which succeed one another. The 5722-9010 and 5722-9011 are successive gold cap models.

The range’s first model, however, was the Grand Seiko Taiyo 43999 with the 430 movement. The watch features a matte pearl silver sunburst dial, steel baton markers, and steel dauphine hands. The model also has a distinct aperture for the date – a silver steel window frame – at the 3 o’clock mark.[45]

Sunburst dial, and AD symbol

The crown is coarse knurled, although this changed to fine knurled later in the production run. The image above (and first image on the header) shows a three-pointed star inside a triangle, which is the Applique Dial (AD) symbol. It indicates that Seiko used an applique for the logo rather than printing it on the dial, a technique which wasn’t exclusive to Grand Seiko watches.[45]

Earlier models had the SD symbol, overlapping 4 pointed stars, which indicated a Special dial with gold hour markers.

Seiko 57GS’s 430 movement and case back with the lion medallion.

The 430 movement was a step up from the 3180 movement in the first Grand Seiko model.

All models of the 43999 have the Chronometer inscription on the dial and have the lion medallion on the case, a Seiko symbol of chronometer grade.

As can be seen above, the Cal. 430 movement 43999 was cased in a heavily lugged stainless steel case with threaded case back and is waterproof to 50 meters.

As the Cal. 430-43999 model was phased out it overlapped with the Cal. 5722 model. The 5722A was the first generation of 5722 which was produced in 1965. The movement operated at 19800 bph. The watch featured the Chronometer label on the dial, while the 5722B had a fine-knurled crown. Both featured the “W SEIKO” imprint on their crowns.[45]

Later in the production run, when the word “Chronometer” was removed from the dial, the case back also changed. The lion medallion was removed, and the case just featured GS. This did not necessarily mean the Grand Seiko model but that the Grand Seiko Standard of movement had been utilised. There is overlap between the dials with and without Chronometer, and case backs with and without the lion medallion or GS medallion.

Later versions of 5722 did not retain the Chronometer dial legend due to the lack of independent Commission Internationale des Controles Chronometriaues (CICC) certification facilities in Japan. The model initially used the second Grand Seiko standard of -3 to +8 sec/day introduced in 1961 [53].

By 1966, the GS Standard was implemented on all Grand Seiko watches, setting a higher level of precision and reliability than any yet achieved by Seiko and even higher than the International Chronometer standards.

Today, the Grand Seiko standard remains higher than today’s chronometer standards involving more tests in more positions and more temperatures.

The model is more commonly called the 5722-9990 model (pictured above – 2nd image) and can have a coarse knurled crown or fine knurled crown. It mostly has a lion medallion case back.

This 5722-9990 model does not have the AD logo, and the movement was engraved 5722A. Both the 430 and 5722A movements were called “tadpole” movements.

A rare Toshiba 25th anniversary with 5722B movement, the lion medallion and a fine knurled crown. Model 5722-9970. Case back in Kanji with 1965. Later versions have GS on the dial, the GS medallion on the back, and 1968.

The 5722B model (third image on heading) generally dispenses with the word “Chronometer” and is known as the Calendar model. The model number is 5722-9991. The caseback is the GS medallion. It had GS Standard official approval and operated at 19,800 bph. It also featured coarse knurled and fine knurled crowns.

This has rack and pinion regulation, not tadpole regulation.

An early GS which was a crossover from a KS, GS on the face but with a KS back

The 5722-9010 model was a gold cap version of the 5722-9991. This model is rare and the case back reads GC.

The 5722-9010 gold cap model with the lion medallion back

The 5722-9010 pictured above was a more heavily gold plated model. The variant below is another gold cap version with white dial and gold markings. This has the GS back and reads CAP GOLD.

THE 44GS MODEL

King Seiko Chronometer (4420A) 44GS Grand Seiko (4420B) and the 4420 – 9990 Gold Cap. The Gold Cap model remains similar to the 57 GS series.

Daini Seikosha released the 44GS in 1964 as a King Seiko Chronometer initially, but because of its appeal and growing reputation as an accurate chronometer in 1966, it became the 44GS Grand Seiko.

Taro Tanaka, Seiko’s first hired graduate of a College Design Program came up with design rules which eventually came to be known as the “Grammar of Design” at Seiko. He wanted Seiko watches to sparkle brilliantly when on display and without any distortions.

The rules were:

Perfectly flat surfaces and angles for cases, dials, hands, indexes Two Dimensional faceted curves for the bezel All distortion should be eliminated from the dial, hands, indexes and case, the finishing of the dial and case should be a mirror finish so it shines and sparkles No more round cases, a unique case design

Only Grand and King Seiko watches benefited from this design as the new case design required very expensive and labour intensive polishing and finishing. This is what makes the 44GS so special along with it being the first Grand Seiko made by the Daini factory and the first time the GS logo appeared at 6 on the dial.

The first models had DIASHOCK on the dial, and did not have the Daini logo.

Later models just had the Daini logo.

The difference in Movement between 44GS Grand Seiko (4420B) and the King Seiko Chronometer (4420A) is the control device for the second hand. The case design was changed to emphasize the beauty of a straight line. This formed the basis of later models, 45GS and 61GS.

Production was limited and models are rare.

The back lid is a screwback type and it guaranteed 50 m depth waterproof.

Short lug or pillowcase style and only stainless steel models of this type were produced. No date facility.

The 4420A movement for the King Chronometer (left) and the 4420B for the 44GS Grand Seiko (right)

THE 62GS MODEL

The 62GS and its four variations (from left to right): 6245 – 9000 and 6245 – 9001 both with day complications; 6246 – 9000 and 6246 – 9001 with day/date complications

By early 1966, the Grand Seiko line would have two manual-wound chronometers, the Self-Date 5722 and the no-date 44GS as seen above. With the Japanese’s exclusion from eligibility for a COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres) certification, Seiko would, later on, have to rebrand this model that would become the 62GS.

This Grand Seiko model was originally called the Seikomatic Chronometer and housed an automatic movement, the calibre 6200, introduced in 1966. Seiko was forced to drop the word “chronometer” as a result of the Swiss COSC’s appeal to the watch manufacturer’s self-certification of chronometer ratings. These Seikomatic Chronometer models were the 6245 – 9000 model which is pictured above on the left with a day complication and the 6246 – 9000 model which is day/date.

These had Chronometer and Seikomatic Diashock 35 Jewels on the dial and Chronometer 35 Jewels engraved on the movement rotor.

Both of the Seikomatic chronometers had a back case reading Seiko within a lion medallion, and these models are commonly referred to as Lion Medallion models to distinguish them from the 62GS.

The rebranded Seikomatic Chronometers were then launched in July 1966 as the 62GS and came in two models: the 6245-9001 and the 6246-9001.

The 6245-9001 had a 35 jewel automatic movement and featured a date complication while the 6246-9001 had 39 jewels with both date and day complications. Both models oscillated at 19,800 bph. In terms of design, these new models were considered to be on the high-end side with its bezel-free case construction, a mirrored, multi-faceted case, and Grand Seiko’s highly-regarded “Zaratsu” polishing. It is distinguished by a flush-mounted crown at 4 and a contoured case. The crown position was at 4 and “hidden” to emphasise that the watch was automatic and did not need a winding crown.

This is the 6245 – 9001 model with a faceted case

This line had four variations: 6245-9000, 6245-9001, 6246-9000, and 6246-9001. The models 6245-9000 and 6246-9000 are not Grand Seiko models, but are closely related, and are known as Lion Medallion models.

The 6245 – 9001 dispenses with Chronometer and Seikomatic and has GS and Grand Seiko badging.

The engraving Chronometer has been removed from the rotor.

The 6245 -9001 has the GS caseback but some lion case backs may exist as part of the transition from the 9000 model.

The 6246 – 9000 model (see the third image on the header) is again branded Chronometer and for this model, Seikomatic was written in script. Also, the word “Chronometer” is inscribed in its rotor. The model has the lion medallion caseback.

This has Chronometer on the rotor.

The 6246 – 9001(pictured above, fourth image) has GS and Grand Seiko badging, but some models carry the lion medallion on the back, despite the dial clearly being Grand Seiko.

A gold cap model below with GOLD CAP and the GS medallion on the case back.

THE 61GS MODEL

Seiko 61GS basic models: 1) 6145A, 2) 6146A, 3) 6185A, 4)6155A, 5) 6156A, 6) 6185B, and 7) 6186B

Another line of automatic watches, the 61GS family, featured higher alterations and were called “Automatic Hi-Beat.” These watches came out in the late 1960s and had the Seiko 6100 movement at 21,000 bph. The 61GS has 20 variations: 6145-8000, 6145-8020, 6145-8050, 6146-8000, 6146-8010, 6146-8020, 6146-8030, 6146-8040, 6146-8050, 6185-8010, 6185-8020, 6185-8021, 6185-7000, 6155-8000, 6156-8000, 6156-8001, 6156-8010, 6156-8020, 6156-8040, and 6186-8000.

V.F.A (Very Fine Adjusted) models boasted accuracy of one minute per month for the first two years of ownership

There were 36,000 watches produced for these two models, in line with the 36,000 bph engineering in the movement.

The seven basic 61GS models were as follows:

6145A (1968-1970) – GS standard official approval, date only

6146A (1968-1970) – GS standard official approval, day/date

Ordinary 61GS models have a 4 in the third digit, and are 614x movements, regulated to the Grand Seiko standard of -3/+5 sec/day.

6155A (1970-1973) – GS Special standard official approval, date only

6156A (1970-1973) – GS Special standard official approval, day/date

The Special 61GS models, have a 5 in the third digit, utilising either the 6155A or 6156A movements, and were introduced in late 1970 for a 10,000 Yen premium. These movements were regulated to the Grand Seiko Special standard of -/+3 sec/day. Special features on the dial.

6185A (1969-1972) – V.F.A., date only

6185B (circa 1972-1975) – V.F.A., date only

6186B (1972-1975) – V.F.A., day/date

The VFA (Very Fine Adjusted) movements have an 8 in the third digit and achieve -/+2 sec/day accuracy.

The movement is one of Seikos finest, a 25 jewel automatic hi-beat that operates at 36,000bph, made at their Suwa factory. It can also be wound manually and has a hacking feature. It is finished to a high level, with a nicely decorated rotor. The 61GS movement achieved the Seiko internal GS standard approval, which was adjusted to be within -3/+5 sec/day when it left the factory. The Special standard watches, on the other hand, achieved -/+ 3 sec/day. It is based on the 61 SeikoMatic 5 movement and was engineered with technology developed from data from the Astronomical Observatory Concours competitions that Seiko did extremely well in during the late 1960s.

6145-8000

The early 6145-8000 model had Grand Seiko written on the silver dial which was marked 8000TAD at 6 o’clock. The movement was marked 6154A and both GS (sometimes) and Grand Seiko on the rotor. There was a gold cap version of this model also. The chapter ring is dotted and is outside the indexes.

Later models had automatic under Seiko and also dispensed with Grand Seiko and had Hi Beat 36000 instead, and 8010TAD at the bottom of the dial. The rotor was marked Seiko.

The 6145 – 8000 was a date only model. The stainless steel model had 8010TAD on the dial and 8000 on the case.

6145 – 8000 versions, from left to right: Gold cap version which had 8010TAD on the dial and either STAINLESS STEEL or CAP GOLD and a medallion on the case; Gold plated version which had 8015TKT on the dial and 18K on the case back which was flat and had no medallion; and cross-patterned version with different raised index markers and 8030TAD on the dial. On this model the chapter ring is between the indexes with alternate long and short tick marks.

Another cross-patterned version of the 6145-8000

A grey dial version with 8040T on the dial and with baton hands and raised index markers and chapter ring inside the indexes, similar to the 6145-8020 model below was also produced.

6145-8020

The 6145 – 8020 was a pillowcase style with curious rectangular or baton hands. The case was similar to the Astron, but with a more rectangular style. (On December 25, 1969, Seiko marketed the world’s first quartz watch, the Seiko Quartz Astron).

Black and grey dial versions also were produced.

The case back has a medallion and is marked STAINLESS STEEL 6145-8020.

6145-8020 in different dial colours

6145-8030

An Astron type case model with hammered or bark 18K yellow gold and linen dial marked 8050TKT was also available in limited quantities. The case back is marked 18K 6145-8030, without a medallion. The dial is either silver or gold. Silver case models are rare.

6145-8050

The 6145 -8050 model had a hardened stainless steel folded case and had only the words Hi-beat on the dial, not the 36000 (bph). The case back is engraved STAINLESS STEEL 6145-8050 and features the GS medallion.

This was the only calibre 61 Grand Seiko to feature a green dial. The hardlex crystal could be faceted. Black and grey dial versions also were produced.

6146-8000

The 6146 – 8000 was the day-date version of the 6145 – 8000.

The early 6146-8000 model is similar to the corresponding 6145 – 8000 model and had Grand Seiko written on the silver dial which was marked 8000TAD at 6 o’clock.

Later models have Automatic, Hi-Beat and 36000 on the silver dial which reads 6146-8020TAD

Gold cap version above with GOLD CAP on the case back.

Below is the cross dial version, with different raised indexes, and the dial reads 8030TAD

6146 – 8010

The 6146-8010 has a sapphire faceted crystal, and “flower carvings” around the GS marking on the dial. The case came as gold, and stainless steel.

6146 – 8020

The 6146 – 8020 is shown below with rectangular case and was produced a variety of dials, including a tea-stained colour. Hands were baton-style on some models with raised indices, and line minute divisions on a chapter ring inside the indexes.

6146 – 8030

The 6146-8030 below is an Astron style golf ball dimpled or bark finish version with an 18K yellow gold case, and starlight dial. Silver cases with a gold finis bezel were also available.

6146 – 8040

The 6146 – 8040 has a polished stainless steel case and a rare starlight dial.

6146 – 8050

This model had a hard steel folded casing and faceted crystal and various dial colours. These models have different raised indexes, a chapter ring inside the indexes, more baton-like hands and do not carry the 36,000 on the dial, but do have hi-beat engraved. The case is shared with the VFA model.

6146-8050 and its dial colour variations (White, black, and blue)

6185 – 8010

VFA movement. These models were put together by master watchmakers using selected parts and were accurate to +/- 2 sec/day.

Considered the best 61GS, the V.F.A. model had a Mean Monthly rate of +/- 60 seconds over the first two years. This translates to an accuracy of +/-2 sec/day compared to an ordinary 61GS at -3/+6 sec/day.

Characteristic of this model is: no VFA on the dial, a palladium case (hammered finish), no GS on the case back and thin pencil hands.

6185-8020

6185-8020 (pictured above): The first model has VFA on the dial, thin indexes and long thin hands. The second model has high raised indexes, and shorter hands as the hands are level with the indexes. Maybe this represents the transition to the 6185B movement from the 6185A movement, but both movements are used in this model, and VFA appears on the earlier model dials. Also shown in the image above is the watch’s VFA movement which is red gold plated.

A 6185-8020 model without the VFA wording on the dial

6185 – 8021

The hard stainless steel model, with raised indexes and 6185B movement.

6185 – 7000

A 18K VFA gold model, with champagne or cream linen cloth finish to the dial. Thin indexes and long hands. Marking on the dial is 7000TKT, and the caseback has no medallion.

6155 – 8000

Rated accurate to +/- 3 sec/day, and has “Special” written in gold on the dial. The 6155 is a day model, with the 6155A movement.

It has thin elongated bar indices and thin hands like VFA model above, which makes this a very elegant watch.

6156 – 8000

The 6156-8000 is the day/date version of the 6155-8000

6156 – 8001

6156 – 8010

The 6156-8010 SPECIAL is made of HSS (Hard Stainless Steel) and has a 3 sided faceted sapphire crystal as shown in the images below:

6156 – 8020

This was a GOLD CAP version marked SPECIAL in gold.

6156 – 8040

No lugged case, with a brushed finish. Medallion case back.

6186-8000

This model had the 6186B movement and is very rare selling for $10,000 to $20,000.

The feature of the watch, apart from the movement, is the deeply recessed dial, with tall indices.

The watch also features highly distinctive dial, markers, hands and case. The tall dark slate grey applied markers stand tall. To make room for these high markers, the hour, minute and seconds hands are kept short – rather than float over the markers, they pass short of them. The dial is a fine sunburst silver.

THE 45GS MODEL

Another line with the “Hi-Beat” branding followed the 61GS line featured the hand-wound Seiko 4500 movement. The late 1960’s manual timepieces had improved to 36,000 bph and thus were called “Manual Hi-Beat”. Eleven variations are included in this line: 4520-7000, 4520-7010, 4520-8000, 4520-8010, 4520-8020, 4522-7000, 4522-7010, 4522-8000, 4522-8010, 4580-7000, and 4580-7010. The 4520-8020 is the only watch in the series to be Astronomical Observatory Chronometer Officially Certified.

The 45GS is one of the Grand Seiko models that housed the movement developed by Daini Seikosha at the astronomical observatory Concours. The other GS models that benefited from the technology were the King Seiko Chronometer and the King Seiko.

In 1968, Daini Sheikosha submitted 103 entries of its cal. 4520 to the Neuchâtel Observatory for chronometer certification. Swiss observatory chronometry trials were considered important and prestigious events in the watch industry at that time. These high beat movements ran at 36,000 bph as with the other prize-winning chronometers. Of these 103 watches, 73 passed as observatory chronometer-certified and the 4520-8020 is one of these 73.

In 1969 and 1970, a further 180 cal. 4580 movements were submitted and 153 passed as observatory chronometer certified.

All 226 certified models were made available to the public.[55]

The calibre variants were:

4500 KS

4502 KS

4520A – GS standard official approval, No date

4522A – GS standard official approval, Date

4580 – V.F.A., Date

4520A – Astronomical Observatory Chronometer official approval, No date

4520 – 7000

The first model in the series is the 4520 – 7000.

The 4520A series did not have a date, and this model had a “folded” case.

It came in both Gold Cap and stainless steel with navy, and white linen look dials.

The stainless steel model is shown below.

Other variants include navy – dialled versions and a gold-capped version with linen dial.

4520 – 7010

This is again the no date 4520A movement in a more oval shaped, rounded case, with a brushed finish. The dial was either plain or had 36000 on the dial.

4520 – 8000

Short lugged steel case following the grammar of design, which also came in Gold Cap.

4520 – 8010

Unique linen case 18 k pure gold model with a white dial.

This model is shown on the right below.

4522 – 7000

The next model in the 45GS date series is the 4522 – 7000

The 4522A calibre models had a date complication.

This came in stainless steel and gold cap with a variety of dials, white satin, black, and a cream linen look.

The case was a turtle shape with a “fold” at the lugs.

Grand Seiko 4522A (from left to right): Stainless steel cap variant, Gold cap version with linen dial, Stainless steel cap version with black dial

Stainless model with linen dial

4522 – 7010

This has a more rounded brushed steel case and is a rarer model.

It was called the “Linear Beauty”, and has very thin hands.

It was the first GS with sapphire glass, and like the 4520-7010 model was either with, or without, 36000 0n the dial.

4522 – 8000

A more traditional short lugged case, as for the 4520-8000 version.

4522-8000 in stainless steel and gold cap versions. A comemmorative Toshiba employee model was made and is rarely found.

4522 – 8010

This model has a linen surface in 18K yellow gold, with a white dial.

The case is the same as that used in the legendary 4520-8020 Astronomical Observatory Chronometer (“AOC”), below.

4520 – 8020

This is a Chronometer certified model with a silver linen woven dial. Very rare as only 123 were produced. Many of those which passed the Neuchatel standard and then was sold to the public had daily deviation of +/- 0.175 sec/day[55].

4580 – 7000

The model is shown below on the right, with a 6185 VFA model on the left.

This model is an extremely rare VFA watch and very difficult to produce, and kept an accuracy of +/- 2 sec/day and +/- 60 sec/month for 2 years. Between 1969 and 1970 Seiko sold only 153 Cal 4580 watches as 4580-7000 or 4580-7010.[55}

The 4580-7000 with black dial and the Daini symbol

4580 – 7010

A very rare 4580-7010 VFA

The movement shown below.

THE 19GS MODEL

Another line of GS watches, the 19GS, is dubbed as the “Grand Seiko for Women”. Produced in the late 1960s to the early 1970s, the 19GS has three variations: Cal. 1984 VFA grade L4A, Cal. 1964 grade L3A, and Cal. 1944 grade L2A. The last 4 in the model number indicates no date.

The Cal 19 Hi-Beat was the first ladies size mechanical watch worldwide to run at 36,000 bph. It is shown below beside the Lord Marvel, the first Seiko watch to run at 36,000 bph.

The 1944 – 0012 model does not carry Grand Seiko and is sometimes dubbed a Queen Seiko.

1944 – 0020

This model was produced in 1969 and carries the CHRONOMETER designation, the first Japanese ladies model to do so.

1964 – 0010

This model has dauphine hands similar to the 62GS, and carries GS on the dial and caseback. Other models with pencil hands were produced.

1984 – 3000

Below is a ladies GS model found on the Grand Seiko website but without a model number, somewhat similar to the 6245 GS :

THE 56GS MODEL

Finally, the last line, 56GS, was often referred to as “Ultra Thin”. It includes 18 variations: 5641-5000, 5641-7005, 5641-7000, 5645-5000, 5645-7005, 5645-8000, 5645-5010, 5645-7000, 5645-7010, 5646-5010, 5646-7010, 5646-7000, 5646-7005, 5646-7011, 5646-7020, 5646-7030, 5646-7040, and 5646-8000.

Suwa Seikosha Co: 25jewels: Automatic

5641 A — GS standard official approval. 28,800bph. 25j NO DATE

5645 A — GS standard official approval. 28,800bph. 25j DATE

5646 A — GS standard official approval. 28,800bph. 25j DAY/DATE

Most of the 56GS production process was automated beginning in the 1970s. The precision level suffered as a result of this transition, with a decrease in movement speed from 36,000 bph to 28,800 bph. The reliability level, on the other hand, increased and some people even consider the 28,800 bph to be the best speed for a watch movement, with its balance of maintenance, reliability and precision. As these were mass produced, it is easy to get maintenance parts for the 56GS even now, 40 years after its production, making it the most reliable of all the Grand Seiko models produced in the past. A slightly less finely tuned calibre 56 movement was also used in King Seiko and Lordmatics.

5641-5000

Hammered 18K yellow gold tonneau case with gold dial above and champagne dial below in brushed or bark pattern.

5645 – 5000

This was the date model of the model above, same style, and both gold and champagne dials.

5641-7000

A turtle shaped brushed case was used for this model.

All these 7000 and 7005 models had the Seiko GS medallion in gold on the back.

Dials are various, silver white, black, dark blue.

with 5645-7000 and 5646-7000 being the day and day/date versions.

Another Toshiba comemmorative model dated 1973 was made 5641-7000.

5645-7000

5646-7000

5641-7005

Model 5641-7005 is the gold version with a linen dial, no date.

5645-7005

5645-7005 is the date version. Plain dials also exist.

5646-7005

5646-7005 the day/date version (pictured below). The case is marked 18K, gold filled.

5645-5010

A square or tonneau case, with either stick indices or Roman numerals with a mottled dial.

5646-5010

The day/date 5646-5010 is similar to the above model.

Black face and Gold Cap version, Roman Numeral Version, and the 5456-5010 caseback with the GS logo

5645-7010

This is a more classical shape, with thin bar indices, thin hands, one of the most prolific GS models. Dials varied, silver, white, black and navy. Gold cap models existed.

5646-7010

Day/date version of the model above. Similar dial variations.

A gold cap version with white dial

5646-7011

Silver, and more rarely white dials

5645-8000

Date model, but now a pillowcase style with straight ends, no lugs.

This photograph shows clearly one of the design features of the 56GS. The hour hand has a thin black line down the center, and the second hand does not have a hole for mounting. Grey, blue, silver and white dials are seen.

5646-8000

Day/date model with pillowcase style, 35mm diameter. The bezel and the sides of the case are polished but the lug sides of the pillowcase have a brushed finish. A grey linen dial model is shown in the centre below. Off white dials also existed. The strap is made of small cubes.

An 18K Gold model above which did not have the GS medallion. Dial marked 8000TKT.

5646-7020

A pillowcase model with tall indices. The case is polished with a central fold line. Only in a green dial.







The crystal has a 9 facet cut.

5646-7030



The 5646-7030 has pencil thin hands and also had a Gold Cap version. The dial is sand finished and has 5646-7040T written on it at 6 o’clock.

5646-7040

A Stainless steel watch with Arabic numerals. The bezel not polished and has a sand finish, while the dial has a variegated finish and reads 5646-7050T.

In all, the Grand Seiko series has 58 main variations. These feature different cases, case shapes, case-back and medallion, movement, dial, dial badge, crown imprint, and crown placement.

MOVEMENTS OF GRAND SEIKO

Seiko started with a manual movement for the Grand Seiko before releasing the series first automatic watch. The series used both mechanical and quartz movements.[15] The Grand Seiko had a total of 22 movements.

The first Grand Seiko featured a hand-winding movement CAL. 3180 at 18,000 bph, 25 functional jewels, and a hairspring that was developed in-house.[16]

The hand-winding movement continued with the Self Dater line which has 35 jewels. The line featured two movements, CAL. 5722 A and 5722 B. The former is 18,000 bph based on Seiko’s internal chronometer declaration, while the latter is 19,800 bph with GS standard official approval.

In The Grammar of Design, Daini added a hand-winding movement, CAL. 4420 B, set at 18,000 bph. [3] The movement was also used for Daini’s first King Seiko.

The 62GS or Self Winding was the first Grand Seiko manual chronograph. It had two movements (CAL. 6245 A and 6246 A), 26 jewels, and was set at 18,000 bph.

The 6200 movement was replaced by the much-faster Automatic Hi-Beat (36,000 bph), featuring a self-winding Seiko 6100 movement (CAL. 6145 A, 6146 A, 6185 A, 6185 B, 6155 A, 6156 A, and 6186 B) which had a power reserve of 46 hours or almost two days. However, creating the movement entailed too much labor so the company mechanized it the following year. The movement was used again in the 1975 Seiko 6159A movement and 6159B for a 600m diver. [3]

The Seiko 4500 movement (CAL. 4522 A, 4580/VFA, 4520 A) that powered the 45GS line was created to replace Daini’s 4440. [3] It is also the same movement in King Seiko 45KS. [3]

The 19GS family had a hand-winding movement (CAL. 1984 VFA grade L4A, CAL. 1964 grade L3A, and CAL. 1944 grade L2A), but the 56GS line (CAL. 5641, 5645 A, and 5646 A) that followed featured a self-winding Seiko 5600 movement.

Finally, the last GS line 56GS (CAL. 5641 A, 5645 A, and 5646 A) had a self-winding Seiko 5600 movement that first appeared in the 1968 Lord Marvel. Backed with 47 hours of power reserve, it was the movement of other watches until 1976, including the King Seiko 56KS, Seiko Duotime, Seiko Chronometer, and Lord Matic timepieces. [3]

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COMPLICATIONS

Some watches of the Grand Seiko series have complications, but the original GS launched with none. So did The Grammar of Design, the Grand Seiko for Women, Manual Hi-Beat CAL 4580/VFA and CAL. 4520, and the Ultra Thin CAL. 5641 A.

The first complication was introduced in the Self Dater line, with CAL. 5722A or “Taiyo”. The Self Daters, and the rest that followed featured a date indicator, except CAL. 6246 A, 6146 A, 6156 A, 6156 B, and 5646 A which had Day/Date indicators.

DIALS[17-40]

The many variations in the Grand Seiko series can be characterized by their dial colors, dial badge, stick markers[41], and case-back medallion, among other things. The series, however, lacks lume[42] and subdials[4].

DIAL COLORS

The original Grand Seiko CAL. 3180 came in two dial colors, plain white and silver sunburst. The latter is prominent from in the 57GS, 44GS, and 62GS lines.

Watch collectors should note that model 6145-8050 has a green dial color which is rare. Models 6146-8020 and 4522-7000 with a black dial, 6146-8040 with a starlight dial, and 6146-8050 with a blue dial are also rare specimens of this series.

HANDS

Grand Seiko watches consistently had dauphine hand style, but later on, Seiko added obelisque and index/fils. The latter two were introduced in the Automatic Hi-Beat GS watches and lasted until Seiko ended production of the vintage GS line.

Model 6146-8030 is also said to have gold-plated hands.

DIAL BADGE

The dial badge features a specific set of words and special logos, some of which are distinct to a specific line, movement, or model. Here are the highlights.

The “Grand Seiko” moniker can only be seen in the Grand Seiko CAL. 3180, in 62GS CAL. 6245 A, 61GS CAL. 6185 A and CAL. 6185 B, and in models 6186-8000, 4580-7000, and 5722-9990.

Meanwhile, the “Chronometer” marking is only sported by four models: Grand Seiko CAL. 3180, 5722-9990, and 6245-9000 and 6246-9000 in transition.

“Diashock” is featured in the dial badge of the first GS through the 62GS line.

The 61GS and the 56GS lines have the Suwa logo, while the 45GS line has the Daini logo. Also in the 61GS movement, Seiko started to use “Hi beat” on the dial, which signified that the watches had higher frequency of beats than the average watches available during that time.[14]

Manual Hi-Beat model 4520-8020 is the only watch in the entire series to have the inscription “Astronomical Observatory Chronometer Officially Certified” in its dial badge. The Daini logo and “Seiko” also appear in the watch’s face.

The entire 56GS line is characterized by a dial badge that has the Suwa logo and the words “Seiko,” “Automatic,” “GS,” and “Hi beat.”

CASES[17-40]

The Grand Seiko series cases measured 31-38mm x 40-44mm, excluding crown. They are screwback and have “water-resistance to 50m depth” or “water-proof” (44GS and 19GS) inscribed on them.

Seiko started out making the cases round, but introduced cushion in model 6145-8020. It also used tonneau in models 5641-5000 and 5645-5000, while models 5645-5010 and 5646-5010 had square cases.

MATERIAL

Seiko initially started using a stainless steel case for its watches and only added gold details later on. From the first Grand Seiko to the 62GS line, Seiko used a pure stainless steel case. It also used stainless steel for its 19GS and 19GS VFA.

Toward the end of the series’ production, Seiko started to feature gold cap or gold plating. A total of eight variations of the 61GS, 45GS, and 56GS families included either of these features, including 18-karat gold for models 6185-7000, 4520-8010, 4520-8020, 5641-5000, 5641-7005, 5645-5000, 5645-7005, and 5646-700. Three models, 6146-8000, 6156-8020, and 4520-7000, feature a gold cap. Meanwhile, 6145-8000 is available in gold and stainless steel.

CASE-BACK MEDALLION

The original Grand Seiko CAL. 3180 and the three models that followed (5722-9990, 5722-9010, and 5722-9011), as well as 6246-9000, all featured a lion emblem. Seiko used the emblem to denote “chronometer-grade.”[43]

All the rest featured “GS”, except CAL. 6185 A, CAL. 6185 B, CAL. 4580/VFA, and in models 4520-8010, 5641-5000, 5641-7005, 5645-5000, 5645-7005, 5645-5010, and 5646-7005.

GRAND SEIKO’S CROWN IMPRINT

Although most models were unsigned, a number of watches in the Grand Seiko range had crown imprints.

The original Grand Seiko CAL. 3180 had “S”, while the 57GS movement had “w seiko”. The 44GS, 61GS, and most of 45GS and 56GS movements had Original signed “GS”. Model 4520-7000 featured “G”, while models 4520-8020 and 5646-8000 were unsigned. Meanwhile, model 5645-5000 featured “GS” and the Japanese flag.

Also notable is the crown placement in model 6245-9000, which is set at 4 o’clock.

CRYSTAL AND BEZELS

Only three models have crystals and bezels in the entire Grand Seiko range. Both belong to the 61GS line. Two models, 6146-8030 and 6185-7000, sport gold-plated bezels. The former also features a plexi glass crystal instead of acrylic, which Seiko mainly used for its watch glass. Another model, 6146-8010, comes with a sapphire crystal.[44]

RECOMMENDATIONS

Watch collectors have to understand that the Grand Seiko range is a luxury line with only limited quantities produced. It is considered to be Seiko’s signature watch. As such, prices of these watches today typically run near or in the thousands of dollar range, depending on condition.[45,46]

START WITH

The Grand Seiko range is noted for its accurate movement. The least accurate among the GS watches has a higher rating than “almost every other brand’s best”,[11] which is great for collectors. Watch enthusiasts who want to start their own Grand Seiko collection can basically pick any of the many variations available. They would still end up with a very accurate watch.

However, for those unsure which model to pick, the original Grand Seiko (Cal. 3180) and the Hi-Beat watches (Cal. 6145A, 6146A, 6155A, 6156A, 5641A, 5645A, and 5646A) are great places to start.

SOMETHING DIFFERENT

Those looking for something more unique should go for those models with the rare dial colors, case-back medallion, shape, or crown imprint.

As a refresher, GS model 6145-8050, 6146-8020, 4522-7000, 6146-8040, and 6146-8050 all feature rare dial colors. Meanwhile, models 5722-9990, 5722-9010, 5722-9011, and 6246-9000 are the only Grand Seiko watches with the lion emblem. Model 5645-5000 is the only one to feature the Japanese flag in its crown imprint, while models 5641-5000 and 5645-5000 have tonneau cases and models 5645-5010 and 5646-5010 have square cases.

THE GRAIL

Those looking for the most valuable GS watch should look no further than “The Grammar of Design” (44GS Cal. 4420B). This is the model that’s most remembered when talking about the Grand Seiko line. The watch’s design is even called the “Grand Seiko Style”, and Tanaka’s design is so iconic that all Seiko products that were released afterward emulated it. This is a certified must-have for any watch collector.

In design, construction, finish and quality, the 61GS easily compares and stands tall with any of its contemporaries. While the Omega Constellation, Rolex Oyster Perpetual and Longines Flagship might garner more attention, the Grand Seikos are just as good in all aspects if not better. Vintage Grand Seikos represent an amazing value for a hi-end dress watch. Because they were not marketed to the US in the 1960s, they can be more difficult to find these days than their Swiss counterparts. That said, they can be had with patience and perseverance. A nice example of a 61GS can be found anywhere from $800 to $1500 depending on condition and seller/market. I know that many people dismiss the notion of a hi-end Seiko, but once you hold one of these in your hands, you can instantly recognize the inherent quality. They are a classy, well designed, engineered and executed watch, true high art horology.

From The Spring Bar Store:

References:

Modern Grand Seiko

In 2011, to mark its 130 anniversary as a company, Seiko created a limited edition reissue of the first Grand Seiko model.

In 2013 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of its first wristwatch, Seiko remanufactured the 44GS model, the 44GS Historical Collection. The true reproduction, Grand Seiko SBGW047 is a limited edition of 700 pieces in stainless steel.

Daini Seikosha released the 44GS in 1964 as a King Seiko Chronometer initially, but because of its appeal and growing reputation as an accurate chronometer, in 1966 it became the 44GS Grand Seiko.

Taro Tanaka, designed the watch and his design rules eventually came to be known as the “Grammar of Design” at Seiko.

Only Grand and King Seiko watches benefited from this design as the new case design required very expensive and labour intensive polishing and finishing.

The most attractive element of the 44GS is the angular case, with its broad polished flanks, and a brushed plane in between the lugs. This watch dial marked the first time the GS logo appeared at 6 on the dial.

The SBGW047 limited edition is faithful to the original, with a 37.9mm case, but because of the new manually wound Grand Seiko 9S64 movement, the 1966 model thickness was 10mm and the SBGW047 is 11.5mm.

The Grand Seiko seal on the case back was gold filled in the 1966 model and is stainless steel embossed in the SBGW47 model

The 1966 model had acrylic glass and SBGW047 has sapphire crystal.

Additionally, this reissue is also available in white, yellow and rose gold, each limited to 70 pieces. The model references are SBGW043, SBGW044 and SBGW046 respectively.

The white gold SBGW043 model differs from the stainless steel SBGW047 because of its blue accented second hand and GS logo.

The line up is shown below.

While there have been many versions of the Grand Seiko since our article on the initial series of watches prior to production ceasing due to the Quartz Crisis, we will cover in this section reinterpretations of the original watches.

The introduction of the 9S55 calibre in 1998 has allowed the development of a whole range of Grand Seiko watches, but we cannot cover them all.

The J14070 with the Cal 3180 movement has been reinterpreted several times.

The earliest versions of the J14070 had Grand Seiko printed in black or carved into the dial, but in 1961 this changed to an applied signature. These models had Chronometer printed under the signature. Most of the models were gold filled, but platinum, and now more rarely found stainless steel versions were made.

In 2001 to celebrate the 120th anniversary of Seiko, a 300 piece limited edition of the Grand Seiko, SGBW004 was released in the JDM. (Grand Seiko models were sold exclusively to the JDM until 2010).

This was a yellow gold model. The dial has an applied signature and does not have Chronometer printed. Earlier models of the J14070 had the SD symbol, overlapping 4 pointed stars, which indicated a Special Dial with gold hour markers, and this model continues this tradition.

The movement was the 9s54 from 1998, with 50+ hour reserve.

Then to celebrate the 130th Anniversary, Seiko reinterpreted the J14070 in all the original materials, gold (SBGW040), platinum (SBGW039) and stainless steel (SBGW033).

The gold version was a limited edition of 130 watches.

The 9S64 movement was developed for this release and is a 24 jewel movement that uses Spron 510 (an in house developed alloy proprietary to Seiko) mainspring which gives the movement a 72 hour power reserve.

The SBGW040 has what Seiko calls a box-shaped sapphire crystal, while the original had a domed plexiglass as was common for the 1960s. The 2011 model differs in that the SD symbol is missing, and also has a narrower lug bevel, but a bigger crown.

The platinum version SBGW039 also comes in a 130 piece limited edition.

This has a silvered second hand.

The SBGW033 was in stainless steel, and 1300 pieces were produced.

The Grand Seiko Rebrand

In 2017 Seiko rebranded Grand Seiko as a brand in its own right.

To celebrate this occasion, Grand Seiko have again released reinterpretations of the first Grand Seiko from 1960, the J14070 with the Cal 3180 movement.

SBGW252 in gold had 353 pieces in limited edition. The SD symbol has reappered on the dial, indicating gold indices.

The watch is bigger than the original J14070 and the above 2 reeditions, moving from 36mm to 38mm.

Grand Seiko’s own in-house caliber 9S64 manually wound movement is used, delivering 72 hours of timekeeping when fully wound.

There are 1,960 examples in steel, 353 in gold, with subtle design

The details that set the platinum SBGW251 apart go beyond the case metal. The dial is made of 18k gold and finished with a radial brushing, while the hour markers are similarly 18k gold.

The Grand Seiko signature is engraved onto the gold dial. The engraved signature is found only on the platinum model, as is the specially regulated movement. The calibre 9S64 inside the platinum version is rated to -1 to +5 seconds day, compared to -3 to +5 seconds for the other two models.

This is the most limited of the limited series, at 136 pieces – in honour of Seiko’s 136th anniversary.

The SBGW033 is similar to its precious metal peers, but the hour markers are steel, explaining the absent SD logo. A blued steel seconds hand is used.

The Grand Seiko lion emblem on the back of the steel watch is a solid gold medallion.

differences between them. But each is a winner. At $5,700, the steel SBGW253 is also one of the year’s best bargains.