I’ve been away from downtown for quite a while. Coming back to it on a Friday night feels like walking through a distant, fading memory. A light breeze fills the air, and a pink-and-blue sunset hangs on the other side of Bushnell Park, over the Capital Building. The streets are mostly empty, save for an old man with his hat on the ground and his arms poised around some string instrument whose name I cannot place. He plays well, but in stints of twenty seconds or so, book-ending pauses that seem to last several minutes. Sitting above him with my two companions on the rooftop patio at Pig’s Eye, it doesn’t take long to realize he is only playing when he notices somebody walking down the street.

With the commuters gone for the weekend, and the college kids all home for the summer, the patio behind us is uncharacteristically empty. Though somewhat melancholy, it’s a nice place to have a beer and take reprieve from the exhausting work week. There’s a lull in our conversation as we all notice, seemingly at once, that we are hungry. We scour yelp for a new destination to realize that time is not on our side. Most places, if they haven’t closed already, are closing soon. One of my companions suggests V’s Trattoria, a restaurant that I’ve only been peripherally aware of until now.

We make our way across the darkening, empty streets. Closed stores are all around us, with the occasional restaurant illuminating small handfuls of patrons inside–groups of three or so, laughing and drinking, alternate past-or-future versions of us. Out here, our chattering and the breeze are the only sounds around.

Like nearly everywhere else, V’s is empty when we arrive. The dark laminate floors and wood frames on otherwise minimalist gray walls make the place feel very modern but not uninviting. Several small dining tables dot the floor to our left. A large wrap-around bar with a black counter stands in front of us. On its other side is a flat-panel television and a nook housing a booth for larger parties. It looks like most happy hour bars in the area, only the sun outside has been extinguished.

We take a seat at the corner of the wrap-around bar. The Hartford Stage Company’s sign glows from across the street, nearly filling the windows with a soft red light. With the three of us sitting there accompanied only by the bartender, the scene feels similar to that Nighthawks painting by Edward Hopper. The drinks come quickly. I ordered the impressively smooth honey tea– made from Jack Honey, passion fruit puree and unsweetened ice tea. We each order something from the menu. Even though it’s late, V’s is still offering happy hour specials. My crispy pork belly arrives first. It is beautifully caramelized; sweet and slightly salty. It rests in a sauce made from goat cheese; not quite as tangy as I’d have liked but still complimenting the flavor and crispiness of the pork very well. Next, the margherita pizza arrives. Though one could call it a personal pizza, it’s big enough to share (as long as you aren’t too hungry), with the tangy zestiness of the fresh tomatoes balancing out the soft, warm mozarella, it’s a comfort food that you could almost trick yourself into thinking is good for you. Finally comes the truffle fries. The dark, aromatic fries are bursting with (but not overpowered by) the flavor of the truffle. I don’t eat to many of these because — while I feel the pork belly would leave me feeling satisfied, the truffles could very easily compel me to order another basket just for myself.

As we make our way back to where we parked, I reflect on the businesses that have come and gone in Hartford. Given how quiet it is on the weekends, it’s almost a mystery that so many restaurants and bars are still standing. Going to these restaurants however makes it all a little less mysterious– they’re still here because they’re full of talented, passionate people who know how to make a dish you’ll come back to. Downtown may be a ghost town, but tonight I’m a very content ghost.

V’s Trattoria is located on 280 Trumbull St in Hartford. It’s a great place for a mid-day lunch or happy hour, but also has late night specials if you’re roaming through downtown at night.