Holiday roads: Australia's best back roads and unique places to explore

Updated

On the road and looking for the perfect spot to explore?

Check out these unique parts of Australia — perhaps they are just down the road, or perhaps they are on your road-tripping bucket list.

Or perhaps travelling online is your only option.

ABC Open contributors give us their inside knowledge of the best spots on their back roads. Tell us yours.

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ABC Open contributor Larissa Johnston took this pic from the viewing platform above Florence Falls, in the Litchfield National Park, about 1.5 hours out of Darwin.

"You can go down about 150 steps to go for a swim," said Larissa, who also recommended another nearby attraction — Buley Rockhole pools, which are a series of rock holes a short drive off the road to Florence Falls.

"The Buley Rock Pools are a beautiful place to go for a swim, and are much easier to access for those who find the 150 steps a bit daunting," she said.

"These are hot springs in the Elsey National Park," said ABC Open contributor woodyworldpacker.

"Bitter Springs have a natural current so you can just put your goggles on and go with the flow."

The nearby Roper River is the daily beneficiary of more than 30 million litres of warm water that flows from subterranean springs around Mataranka into the river.

This fresh water keeps the Roper running throughout the year.

"Australia's most remote traffic light!" said ABC Open contributor woody world packer. "Have you been there?"

The Daly Waters Pub has erected the fake lights as part of its array of quirky outback attractions, which includes decorations of bras, pants, shirts, hats, stickers, and currency donated by visitors from far and wide.

Visitors can also pick from the menu including a "stake samige", "am buggers", "Te and Koffy", and "Bum Nuts on Toast".

ABC Open contributor Tulip D has a simple way of expressing the satisfaction of climbing the Petermann Ranges, which run 320km across the border between Western Australia and the south-west corner of the Northern Territory.

"Started from the bottom — now we're here," she said, enjoying a view well earned.

You will need a four-wheel drive to traverse the back road to Three Steps (signposted and also known as Three Sisters).

After heavy rain, locals visit the waterfall created by three large rock formations, as well as the nearby Lake Moondarra.

Mount Isa-based ABC Open contributor theoutbackteacher describes it as a great place for "adventures in our town's backyard".

On the eastern edge of Cape York Peninsula, Chilli Beach in Kutini-Payamu (Iron Range) National Park provides welcome respite for travellers such as ABC Open contributor Jenny Botheras.

"After miles of red dust road we let the sea air revive us, as we wandered along the white quartz sands and revelled in the remoteness of the ancient coastline," she said of this photograph.

She described this tip of the Top End as "truly a magical place". But if you plan to visit, brace yourself for relentless winds coming onshore.

While tempting to jump in for a refreshing dip, it is not advisable, with freshwater stonefish and crocodiles found in the river south of Cairns in Far North Queensland.

Fishers say it provides some of the best estuary fishing in North Queensland, and it is also a popular spot for kayaking.

ABC Open contributor Michael Watt said the Mulgrave River changed character constantly — with the seasons, but also with the light and time of day.

"But it is when the hot, dry summer months suck the water from the river and a carpet of brown leaves spread over the earth, that it becomes my favourite time to snap the river," he said.

Porcupine Gorge, 60km north of Hughenden is "considered Australia's mini Grand Canyon" according to local ABC Open contributor AnnieOD, thanks to the contrast its towering sandstone cliffs and lush vine-forest create as they sink abruptly within the surrounding plains.

The 1.2km track to the tiny ribbon of water in the gorge is well worth the hike.

"At the bottom our first stop is a cool swim in the clear water of Porcupine Creek, where all aches and pains are instantly forgotten," Annie said.

"It's changeable down here, sometimes dusty and barren, sometimes lush and green.

"You will often see large flocks of raucous birds and sometimes other wildlife such as snakes and wallabies — all out in the hot midday sun."

ABC Open contributors the_hungry_travellers call Eungella Dam, 120km west of Mackay, "an all-time favourite".

Eungella Dam is one of Queensland's more established freshwater fisheries, with sooty grunter, saratoga, sleepy cod and barramundi up for grabs.

Where the landscape turns from rainforest into high country farms — complete with wandering stock — the road turns from bitumen to unsealed.

According to the_hungry_travellers, it is worth the trip.

"We can never go wrong with a few days away soaking up this place, whether it's for a fun-filled weekend or a relaxing weekday getaway," they said.

"Make sure it's on your list for 2017."

"This is the Tree of Knowledge, a 200-year-old ghost gum, which was poisoned in 2006," said ABC Open contributor Bee Adams.

"It's known as the birthplace of the Australian Labor Party and headquarters of the 1891 Australian Shearers' Strike."

The strike was broken after five days with the arrest of the shearers' leaders on a number of charges, including sedition and conspiracy.

Thirteen ringleaders were then sentenced to three years' hard labour on Saint Helena Island, Moreton Bay.

ABC Open contributor rambleanddrift highlighted Lake McKenzie on Fraser Island, Queensland, after a recent trip — and with good reason.

The lake is known for its incredibly clear waters and soft white sand.

It is a 'perched lake' as the sand and organic matter forms an impervious layer, meaning it contains only rainwater.

The sand filters the water, making it so pure it can support very little life.

Until the motorway between Tweeds Heads and Byron Bay opened, the 90kph road through Pottsville was the way to travel to the towns of Pottsville, Cabarita, and Hastings Point.

And it is because of the motorway that the road through Pottsville allows a slower pace through perennially green farmland, banana plantations, and roadside produce stalls.

"The traffic is near non-existent, except for the odd truck or the farmer on his motorbike," said ABC Open contributor Andy Taylor.

"Dusty roads and one-lane bridges, cane fields, blind corners, and light filtering onto the road through the trees."

ABC Open contributor Shakti Craig interviewed Owen Maher at the New Govardhana Hare Krishna Farm at Eungella, near Murwillumbah, for their My Back Roads piece.

"Discovering Krishna consciousness, meeting supportive and interesting people from different walks of life, working together with the community, and living alternatively have helped him find resilience in life after coming from a troubled life," Shakti said.

"These ways of living can give people the capacity to recover quickly from difficulties or toughness in life and the unexpected hardships that can be thrown at us."

Eungella, with its population of about 300 people, is also a great base to explore nearby Mount Warning, as is Uki, a 15-minute drive away with cafes, bakeries, and the rebuilt Mount Warning Hotel a popular lunch stop-over for travellers.

Brunswick Heads is a small town north of Byron Bay, on the mouth of the Brunswick River.

Like its bigger sibling — Byron Bay — 'Bruns' also boasts great cafes, restaurants, shopping, and safe beaches, but it is usually much easier to get a car park.

ABC Open contributor Amber Greene, with the support of Kingscliff TAFE, took a trip down the Brunz Fairy Trail to find all the fairy houses in town.

"After hours of jumping over creek beds, swinging off tree branches, climbing rocky mountains, and being bitten by mozzies, we finally reached the swimming hole," said ABC Open contributor Sofie of her visit to Mutawintji National Park, north-east of Broken Hill.

"In amongst the vibrant red of the Bynguano Ranges, known for their rich Aboriginal history and hand stencil art, the waterhole is an oasis.

"Cold refreshing water, a mossy carpet for our feet and nature's very own slippery dip," Sofie said.

"Mutawintji National Park is a treasure."

"We were very fortunate to be able to spend some time enjoying the fabulous flora and fauna near Bourke recently," said ABC Open contributor Jesse, of Canowindra.

"I was lucky to capture this special moment between my dad and my son."

ABC Open contributor Domino Houlbrook-Cove found the water garden at Mayfield Garden, west of Oberon, a fabulous place to chill out for a while.

The privately owned garden spans more than 64 hectares within a 2,000-hectare working farm, and includes a rose garden, creek garden, aviary, and cascade.

What good is a sunrise without people in it?

ABC Open contributor Howard Mitchell intended capturing a sunrise photograph of the spectacular Seacliff Bridge, but spotted some early morning swimmers at the Austinmer Ocean Pools instead.

Like many spots along the NSW coast, Austinmer boasts sea baths that provide a safer option, along with the exhilaration of swimming in the ocean.

There are two pools side-by-side: a deeper one for swimming laps, and a shallower one with a sandy bottom for younger swimmers. There is also a nearby cafe for sustenance.

Seven Mile Beach, just north of Shoalhaven Heads, is famous for being used as a runway for Sir Charles Kingsford Smith's first commercial flight between Australia and New Zealand in 1933.

It also made an impression on ABC Open contributor Andy Hutchinson, who had just arrived from England to visit family and friends as a boy.

"The car crested the hill and, in the morning's clear summer air, the crescent of Seven Mile Beach stretched off into the distance fringed by forest and turquoise ocean," he said.

"We emigrated to Australia the next year and put down roots in Shoalhaven Heads.

"I've been photographing that beach ever since. I've seen it in all moods, from placid to furious. It's an extremely therapeutic experience."

Mermaids Inlet and Honeymoon Bay are just two of the romantically named beaches along the Beecroft Peninsula on the spectacular northern headland of Jervis Bay, NSW.

If you are after hard-to-get-to places, Gosangs tunnel is just the ticket.

A detour on the 9km Coomies Walk will lead to a tunnel, which visitors crawl through to emerge on a shallow ledge to view the cliffs of Point Perpendicular.

ABC Open contributor Geoff Kittelty said Gosangs tunnel was apparently the place to spot migrating whales in June and July, and then from September to November as they headed south again.

Target Beach at the delightfully named Honeymoon Bay is on the southern side of the Beecroft Peninsula at the mouth of Duck Creek.

Although picturesque and isolated, Target Beach has permanent rips against the headlands and is dangerous for swimming.

A 90-minute drive south of Sydney lies Kiama, a coastal township with popular surf beaches and surrounded by pastures and forests.

It is known as the place where the mountains touch the sea.

As evidenced in the rock wall photo taken by ABC Open contributor Susan, Kiama is the site of two volcanic flows that came out of Saddleback Mountain, now a collapsed volcanic vent.

One of the main tourist attractions is the Kiama Blowhole, which can spray water up to 25 metres in the air, saturating unsuspecting visitors.

The name of the town is derived from the Aboriginal word 'kiarama', which means 'place where the sea makes a noise'.

Previously known as Mount Dromedary, Gulaga is an extinct volcano rising near the coastal town of Narooma.

ABC Open contributor Emma Hoy spoke to Yuin man and traditional keeper of the mountain, Warren Foster.

To the Yuin people, Gulaga is known as the Mother Mountain, and has always been a woman's place.

It includes sacred sites where Aboriginal women would retreat for storytelling, ceremony, and childbirth.

Meanwhile, Mumbulla was a traditional men's mountain.

A half-hour drive south will get you to Wallaga Lake, the largest lake in southern NSW.

This lends itself perfectly to a variety of water sports, as well as bushwalking and wildlife watching.

The name Tanjil was derived from the Tangel pastoral run in 1844, which got its name from an Aboriginal word meaning frost or snow.

There was no frost to be found on this Saturday in spring, when ABC Open contributor Robert Williams used his homemade time lapse slider to capture the changing light on the Tanjil River.

The township of Tanjil petered out after a short-lived gold rush and was submerged by the building of the Blue Rock Dam, whereas Tanjil South is an active community of about 700 people.

ABC Open contributor Paul Fox said it was a magical moment — unexpected, timeless, and breathtakingly beautiful.

He described the McHarg Ranges as the relatively unexplored relation to the more popular Macedon Ranges, as the picturesque and less-travelled back roads meandered through granite-strewn hills and volcanic plains linking the hamlets of Pyalong, Baynton, Toobarac and Lancefield.

"Millions of years of erosion has left gigantic rock formations, ancient and worn, like megalithic monuments, impressive in their own surroundings," he said.

ABC Open contributor Marcus Green took this photograph looking down Les Burgers Lane at Glenthompson towards the Grampians.

ABC Open contributor Andy Graham could not resist capturing this exquisite sunset shot over Lake Cartcarrong in the heart of Winslow, south-west Victoria.

The penguin colony on Middle Island, off Warrnambool, was being decimated by foxes until a local chicken farmer came up with the idea of using maremma guardian dogs to protect the penguins.

Visitors can tour the island and see the dogs at work.

ABC Open contributor Marcus Green said even along the iconic tourist drive, there were hidden gems of coastline accessible via a dirt track.

He found this vista near Peterborough, in the heart of the Great Ocean Road, about three hours' drive from Melbourne.

The town is part of the Shipwreck Coast and is close to The Twelve Apostles and London Arch — formerly London Bridge, until part of it collapsed in 1990, leaving two tourists stranded on the outer span.

Peterborough is a popular destination for families with its golf course, shorefront playground, and children's riding loop.

"We found this Bennett's wallaby (Macropus rufogriseus) enjoying the shade at Wineglass Bay, Tasmania," said ABC Open contributor backcountryblissadventures.

"How cute is this mother's joey just posing for the camera? This species is quite commonly found around the beach, but please don't feed them."

Wineglass Bay is billed as one of the world's top 10 beaches — even before the cute marsupials are taken into consideration.

It is a short walk from camping grounds at Coles Bay, but it involves an uphill climb through pink granite peaks known as The Hazards to a rocky lookout, followed by a downhill walk to the beach.

The steep, half-hour drive to Mount Wellington's lookout from Hobart provides breathtaking views of the coastal plain, rugged wilderness, and glimpses of spectacular waterfalls.

ABC Open contributor Gary Tew enjoys tramping through the bush on the slopes of kunanyi/Mount Wellington in the hope of finding waterfalls that tourists and locals do not get to see that often.

He said some of the tracks into once-popular falls were now overgrown and forgotten.

"Each Tuesday, we have been lucky to find some lovely falls that possibly haven't been seen in years, judging by the moss on the logs and rocks," he said.

"We are very careful to leave the place as we find it — untouched."

One of the best and most accessible places to view the mighty Huon River in southern Tasmania is from the Tahune AirWalk.

It is 29km from Geeveston — about an hour's drive south of Hobart — and is a metal structure perched in the treetops over the banks of the Huon River.

It is on the doorstep to the Wilderness World Heritage Area and home to some of the longest-living trees in the world.

The largest salt lake in Australia, Lake Eyre, is also the lowest natural point in Australia, at about 15 metres below sea level.

It occasionally fills — at which point it becomes the largest lake in Australia, covering 9,500 square kilometres.

Maybe that is what ABC Open contributor rimintonsontheroad was referring to when she optimistically titled this pic Father and daughter, in search of water.

About 32km north of Coober Pedy, the Breakaways take their name from the way these colourful low hills seem to have broken away from the Stuart Range.

ABC Open contributor Mark Coleman said they were regarded as a local highlight.

"After driving perhaps half an hour out of town, along a rutted gravel road, suddenly this sweeping vista opened up before me," he said.

"Stepping out of the car brought on a sense of total isolation, no sounds apart from the wind and no-one else around … no wonder they filmed some of Mad Max out here.

"If you are ever in Coober Pedy, or driving through, I strongly recommend you spend a few hours of your day visiting here."

Located along the Worlds End Highway, 11km north of Eudunda, is the tiny, almost forgotten hamlet of Point Pass.

ABC Open contributor Robyn Bradbrook said it was once a thriving town with several sporting teams, two blacksmiths, a saddler, a cheese and butter factory, and its own hospital.

"Unfortunately, as with so many of South Australia's smaller towns, the population declined, services relocated to the larger towns, and today there are only a couple of churches, a pub, and a handful of occupied homes," she said.

"Most people pass through with barely a second glance, but if you do take the time to pull over and stroll along the main street, you can relive some of the forgotten history of the town.

"Peer into the past through the lovely old buildings and read the plaques and memorials dedicated to first settlers."

A favourite with photographers and tourists, the precariously balanced granite formations of Remarkable Rocks are situated in Flinders Chase National Park, on the western end of Kangaroo Island, about 170km from Adelaide.

Also not to be missed in Flinders Chase National Park is Admirals Arch — a natural rock arch shaped by the pounding Southern Ocean — as well as wild beaches, wilderness areas, two lighthouses, and a visitors' centre with a fossil dig pit for the young at heart.

ABC Open contributor BJ Chester says you see some strange sights while out in the desert.

"This car wreck stuck in a tree also functions as a warning sign: Danger 1080 and strychnine," he said.

"Often the least obvious source provides the greatest personal insight," said ABC Open contributor Rob Mulally of the Antony Gormley sculptures he found visiting Lake Ballard, WA.

"It's the most moving art installation I've experienced. I found myself alone talking to a few of the 51 pieces placed on the lake.

"Only eight hours from Perth, two from Kalgoorlie …Who's keen?"

"Pergandes sheep yards date back to the early 1920s," said ABC Open contributor redda.mac of the 'Aussie Stonehenge' that can be found on the drive between Bencubbin and Mukinbudin, WA.

They were built in the 1920s by early settlers to the area, using granite slabs that were drawn into position by horse sled from the nearby Wiacubbing Hill.

The site also hosts the remains of an original homestead constructed almost entirely from local granite and mortar.

"The things you see in the Australian outback — a truck on top of a hill which is covered by wildflowers," said ABC Open contributor Erna Glassford, aka simplycheeky.

She found the sight on her way back to Perth from Esperance, at Bennie Camp Road, just before Lake Newton.

"I had to stop and take a picture," she said. She calls the result On the Edge.

"Just checking out the view at 53 metres — I can say I have climbed the Gloucester Tree and Diamond Tree ... and the views were spectacular," said ABC Open contributor Ivan Gibbs of the old bushfire lookouts in the Gloucester National Park.

"These trees have a cabin/platform anchored to their top and are used to spot fires in the fire season."

The Gloucester Tree is 2km from Pemberton, WA, and the Diamond Tree between Manjimup and Pemberton is a 15-minute drive from either town, on the Southwest Highway.

ABC Open contributor Trish Muir took this photo of a "summer evening at the iconic Busselton jetty".

At 1.7km in length, the jetty has its own mini train to help tourists take the journey across the clear waters of Geographe Bay.

Those same clear waters make for good viewing from the Underwater Observatory that provides views of the sea life congregating around the jetty pylons, eight metres beneath the water's surface.

"My friend and I drove up from Perth to Nambung National Park on what turned out to be a most brilliant day," said ABC Open contributor kimnarelle.

"The Pinnacles Desert is truly fabulous. Limestone formations which formed thousands of years ago. Exactly how is still up for dispute, which in itself is fascinating."

However they formed, the thousands of limestone Pinnacles — some up to 5m high — have become a highlight of the Cervantes area.

Kimnarelle also recommends heading to the visitors' centre, which she describes as "brilliant — interesting and educational".

The township of Onslow in the Pilbara region of WA has a colourful history that includes pearl lugging, Japanese bombing in WWII, and devastating cyclones.

Visitors can enjoy heritage walks, a boardwalk over the beach, colossal salt mounds, and the Staircase to the Moon over the mudflats.

ABC Open contributor Hannah Castledine took a weekend trip from Port Hedland to Karijini to cool off in croc-free waters.

Karijini National Park is centred in the Hamersley Ranges of the Pilbara region, and features breathtaking gorges carved out of rocks that are more than 2,500 million years old.

The national park is the traditional home of the Banyjima, Kurrama and Innawonga people, and the Banyjima name for the Hamersley Range is Karijini.

It is also home to the western pebble-mound mouse — the tiny rodents build mounds up to 50cm high and cover up to 9 square metres in diameter.

Fortescue River, in WA's Pilbara region, is an ephemeral river but does have permanent water pools, which offer a cool place to set up camp.

Part of the Dampier Archipelago in WA's Pilbara region, Sam's Island (formally named Tidepole Island) has an interesting history.

In 1884, the British named the island after poles used to measure the tides, but when Yugoslav immigrant Sam Ostojich started building his 'castle' there in 1966, it became more popularly known as Sam's Island.

Sam continued working on his castle even after breaking his back in an industrial accident in the early 1970s.

Hamersley Iron gave Sam a 99-year gentleman's lease, allowing Sam to live out his days there with his cat, Tiger.

Sadly, Sam died in February 2005 and is buried on the island. Tiger passed away shortly after, and is buried at Sam's feet.

ABC Open contributor Glen Slee said even in the searing summer heat, the Pilbara shared some "really cool spots".

She said the thermometer in her 4WD read 54 degrees Celsius, but it dropped to 44 close to the creek bed in Millstream Chichester National Park.

No wonder it is referred to as an oasis in the desert.

"Allow yourself to be dazzled by the amazing colours of Gantheaume Point in Broome," said ABC Open contributor Kerrie Holliday of the contrasting colours of the deep-red pindan cliffs and the turquoise Indian Ocean.

At very low tide, the point also offers a glimpse of dinosaur footprints preserved in reef rock at the bottom of the cliff. It is a 10-minute drive from the town centre of Broome.

"That's Cable Beach on the distant horizon," Kerrie said.

"The Gibb River Road is one of the final frontiers of travel in Australia," said ABC Open contributor Stories from the Scenic Route.

"It's a 660km natural earth track that takes you through the wild heart of the Kimberley, and it's one of the most remote roads in Australia, if not the world.

"Fuel at one of the few roadhouses costs more than $2.15 per litre, twice as expensive as the metropolitan average.

"It is also one of the Kimberley's main attractions, and travellers can venture through a dramatically diverse landscape dotted with waterfalls, gorges, rock pools, and mountain ranges."

Thanks to our ABC Open contributors for sharing their photos and travel stories from Australia's best back roads.

Topics: lifestyle-and-leisure, travel-and-tourism, arts-and-entertainment, photography, australia

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