Yours is the best table in the house, and the only one: bright yellow between two black metal folding chairs, pressed against a freezer stacked with tempeh packets and a wall of instant curry noodles.

Every Tuesday, Indo Java, a grocery in Elmhurst, Queens, turns into one of the city’s smallest restaurants. Anastasia Dewi Tjahjadi, the chef, makes a single dish, whatever her fancy, from 1 to 8 p.m. (Call ahead in the morning if you’d like to ask about the menu.) No sign alerts passers-by; customers come by word-of-mouth, mostly fellow Indonesian immigrants from the neighborhood and longtime fans of Ms. Tjahjadi’s from when she cooked a block away at Java Village, now shuttered. If the table is taken, you may wander the aisles (there are two) while you wait, shopping for soursop leaves and bika ambon cake mix.

Ms. Tjahjadi, a native of Surabaya in East Java, left the country after the 1998 attacks against Indonesians of Chinese descent and found asylum in the United States. She opened Indo Java in 2007 and started serving meals there last year, calling her pop-up restaurant Warung Selasa, or Tuesday Warung.

The name comes from the small, family-owned shacks and stalls — warungs — that multiply along Indonesia’s roadsides, sometimes no more than a lone table under a tarp, where motorcycle-taxi drivers and bankers huddle together. (Recently she extended the hours to Thursdays with her friend Viviane Chin in the kitchen, but I did not have a chance to sample Ms. Chin’s cooking.)