Seeing Morocco

For anyone with a sudden onset of near-middle-age wanderlust

I live in a densely crowded city of 7 million people. Somehow all of us fit within just 276 square kilometres (about 100 square miles) — density-wise that’s roughly 7 Manhattans stacked atop each other. I’m talking about Hong Kong, of course, that cosmopolitan blip in the South China Seas.

I’m a city guy, and I love the city. But it does things to you. Stress creeps up on you like a chill in the night, and the next thing you know you’re silently raging out when someone so much as changes lanes without the appropriate amount of signalling.

So once every other year, my wife and I go somewhere far away. To see what the rest of the world looks like. But really, just to leave this city for a goddamn breather.

This is how we saw Morocco in ten days. It’s written as an itinerary, but it’s really a diary entry to remind myself of the beautiful people and landscapes we saw on our trip. If you’re searching for an experience that is at once memorable and mesmerising, read on.

While I may look like a seasoned traveller here, if you look closely — you’ll see that I am in fact wearing leather loafers… IN THE DESERT — not the best idea, in hindsight.

The beauty of Morocco is that ten days is sufficient for first time visitors to get a full dose of otherworldly wonder. The Moroccan culture is so vivid, and the landscapes so varied and dramatic, that you’ll feel like a bonafide explorer just being there.

If this is your first visit to North Africa you will experience some culture shock — I definitely did — but if you take it all in stride you’ll have an extraordinary time.

I’ve also included notes on where we stayed at the bottom of this post for anyone looking for places to stay.

All were charming and comfortable.

And Off We Go!

Morocco is a country of culture and contrasts. Your journey will start in the “Ochre City” of Marrakech, home of one of the busiest market squares in Africa; you’ll drive over 600 kilometres towards the desert, across sweeping valleys, up the cliffside roads of the Atlas range, and through countless nameless roadside towns full of wonderful people; you’ll go by camel into the Great Sahara, and spend a night in a Berber camp — and that’s only half the trip!

Into the desert, and out again.

Day 1 to 3: Marrakech

An intricately crafted riad door in the old city.

If you’ve made it to Marrakech — congratulations, adventure awaits. Well — sort of. Since neither V. nor I had been to North Africa, we erred on the safe side and (unadventurously) had the hotel arrange for a driver to pick us up at the airport. If you’re feeling adventurous, grab a cab and find your way to your hotel.

The hotel we stayed in was in a beautiful traditional riad nestled within the crowded alleyways of the Medina, a few streets from Bab Doukkala (one of nineteen gates into the Old City), and about a 15-minute walk from Jemaa el-Fnaa (Marrakech’s main square).

Passing through the entrance of the riad is like entering another realm altogether — the bustling sounds of the street fade away, enveloped by the quiet trickling of a marble fountain in the riad’s courtyard. We were welcomed with a small plate of biscuits, and a pot of mint tea, a gesture of hospitality throughout Morocco. The tea helps to soothe any aching pains from travelling, and gives you a moment to catch your break and take in your surroundings.

Once you’ve settled in, ask your hotel or riad proprietor for advice on places to see. Muriel and Laurent (owners of our riad) were absolutely invaluable in showing us the ropes.

One place you’ll definitely want to see in Marrakech is Jemaa el-Fnaa. In the evenings, Jemaa el-Fnaa is a sea of people pulsating with life. The square is packed with locals and tourists alike, huddled around food stalls serving mounds of shellfish, and mouth-watering tajines. Snake charmers, performing Barbary apes, dancers, and even amateur boxers all clammer for the attention of gathered onlookers, creating islands amidst the dense crowd.