THOSE of us who grew up eating chopped liver made with schmaltz (chicken fat) had a particular group of sensations almost completely unlike that associated with liver pâté made in the French style.

Leaving aside the fact that the French stuff is almost as unkosher as it could be (it includes butter and cream), it’s a more luxurious and elegant product. Not better, mind you, but of a different world entirely.

Image Credit... Evan Sung for The New York Times

When I first made it 35 years ago, I was stunned: the color and texture are lighter and the flavor more mysterious. Of course, the mystery is no mystery: it results from the inclusion of a mixture of spices (sometimes called quatre épices, or four spices, though there may be three or five) and brandy. The lightness and texture are thanks to the cream and butter.