Huddled on the side of one of the world's tallest and most deadly mountains on July 26, Chris Warner did not like what he was seeing.

The Australian mountaineer, 35, who had previously climbed Everest, knew the weather was closing in.

Denali and Marty Schmidt (pictured), continued alone after Mr Warner turned back.

But his two companions, New Zealand father and son duo Marty and Denali Schmidt, were keen to push on for the summit.

“We weren’t establishing camps along the way," said Warner, "it was a quick push and we were carrying the tent with us ... and we weren’t staging each camp, which is the typical way to climb an 8000-metre peak.’’