Francophiles of all kinds flock to Paris, the Dordogne, and Provence in droves, admiring the regions’ historic symbolism, cuisines, and architecture. But just when you think you’ve discovered all that France has to offer, she shows one more untamed pocket of greatness: Gascony. Situated between Toulouse and Bordeaux in the southwest, this vast swath is one of the most rural (and pastoral) areas of France. Other than Toulouse (which some argue is not part of the region), you won’t recognize any city names here—but you will recognize many of Gascony’s claims to fame, like rolling hillsides dotted with ancient, crumbling landaise farmhouses built from stone and pebbles, landscapes packed with sunflowers, and the rich and varied cuisine. This is a tucked-away part of France that will capture any voluptuary’s heart.

Despite being cast off as not part of Gascony, Toulouse, which is the capital of France’s southern Occitanie region, is undoubtedly where any good Gascon adventure begins. La Ville Rose, as it’s known, is mainly built of blush-hued terra-cotta bricks and ochre-tinged rooftops. Within France’s fourth largest metro area you’ll find the Vieux Quartier, a tangle of shops, churches, and cafés. Before leaving, don’t skip admiring the dreamy Romanesque Basilique St-Sernin, an 11th-century church that became a model for others in the area.

A look at the charmingly small streets that make up parts of Auch, a small town in Gascony. Photo: Laura Ratliff

Enter the heart of Gascony through Auch, pronounced “osh.” Romans first noted the settlement as far back as 50 B.C.E., and today it’s a quintessential French village, with one of the region’s most important cathedrals as its centerpiece. The first stones of the Basilique Cathédrale Sainte-Marie d’Auch were laid in the 15th century, but it wasn’t consecrated until nearly 100 years later, in 1548. Now you can visit the cathedral to admire the 18 stained-glass windows, which were recently restored at the cost of 110,000 euros per window. Unlike much of the rest of France, the windows didn’t suffer during World War II—they were dismantled and later safely returned.

If you’re in Auch on a Thursday or Saturday, walk down the nearby Escalier Monumental, a 234-step baroque staircase, and across the River Gers to visit the market. This is your first taste, literally, of Gascony, a region famous for hearty dishes like cassoulet, foie gras, and duck. (It is perhaps not surprising that an Auch native, Ariane Daguin, founder of D’Artagnan foods, introduced the U.S. to most of these delicacies.)

Your home in Gascony is the Hôtel de France, a venerable institution that is not only where Daguin grew up but also where her father, Andre Daguin, cooked for years; whenever you see duck magret on a menu, you can thank Daguin. The perfectly distressed digs have hosted travelers for nearly 300 years.