Copyright 2014 Author: Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go, All rights reserved





Head and Body worked in one piece:

with 6sc (6)

2) 2sc in each st (12)

3) 1sc then 2sc in next st (18)

4) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)

5) 1sc in next 3st then 2sc in next st (30)

6) 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (36)

7) 1sc in next 5st then 2sc in next st (42)

8) switch to skin color on first st, sl st next st then 1sc in next 40st (42)

9-18) 1sc in each st for 10 rows

19) 1sc in next 5st then 2tog (36)

20) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (27)

21) 1sc then 2tog (18)

22) 1sc then 2tog (12)

stop and stuff head. Stuff the head as much as you can, making sure to shape as you stuff. Use a pencil or stuffing stick and make a hole in the stuffing, right in the middle. This hole is for the pipe cleaners you will put in later.

23) 1sc in next 2st then 2tog (9)

24-27) 1sc in each st for 4 rows

28) 2sc in each st (18)

29) switch to coat color on first st, sl st next st then 1sc in next 16st (18)

30) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (24)

31) 1sc in each st

32) 1sc in next 11st then 2sc in next st (26)

33-39) 1sc in each st for 7 rows

stop and stabilize the neck. For this I cut a piece of 20 gauge wire about 24 inches long (2 times the length of a pipe cleaner). I folded it in half then folded it in half again and twisted it as pictured.



The 20 gauge wire is optional but it does make the neck super stabilized yet still poseable. Don't worry if you don't have the wire as the pipe cleaners will work on their own just fine. Take 4 pipe cleaners and fold them in half and twist them around the wire.



Put in a pencil or stuffing stick inside the head and work it around to re-open that hole you made earlier in the stuffing. This step just makes it easier to push the stabilizer in.



Push the wire into the neck making sure you go far enough in so that the other end is level with row 39. Take the piece out, taking mental note of the area that sits inside the neck itself and add a thin layer of fabric glue (tacky glue will work too) just to the part that sits in the neck. This step will ensure that the stabilizer will not come out of the neck later.



Let the glue dry for a minute or two then continue onto row 40. I used pictures from another doll tutorial to explain some parts as we go along.









40-42) 1sc in each st for 3 rows

43) 1sc in each of the FLO

44) 1sc in each st

45) ch1 and turn, starting with the 2nd st from the hook 1sc in next 26 st - don't break free yet but pull out your last st so you won't lose it. You will now stuff and close up the body



By crocheting in the front loops for row 43 you created a ridge on the inside as pictured below. This is where you insert the color you will use for the pants.



1) pull through one of the loops of that ridge then put 1sc around for 1 row. The end of the ridge will be a bit higher than the beginning so just join them with a sc

2+) Crochet 2tog until you close the gap, if you can't crochet 2tog until the gap is completely closed just stop when you can't work the 2tog anymore and with a yarn needle and the yarn tail weave in and out of the remaining stitches then pull tight, knot off and hide yarn tail inside the body. Make sure to add in any stuffing the body needs before closing up the gap completely. 40-42) 1sc in each st for 3 rows43) 1sc in each of the FLO44) 1sc in each st45) ch1 and turn, starting with the 2nd st from the hook 1sc in next 26 st - don't break free yet but pull out your last st so you won't lose it. You will now stuff and close up the bodyBy crocheting in the front loops for row 43 you created a ridge on the inside as pictured below. This is where you insert the color you will use for the pants.1) pull through one of the loops of that ridge then put 1sc around for 1 row. The end of the ridge will be a bit higher than the beginning so just join them with a sc2+) Crochet 2tog until you close the gap, if you can't crochet 2tog until the gap is completely closed just stop when you can't work the 2tog anymore and with a yarn needle and the yarn tail weave in and out of the remaining stitches then pull tight, knot off and hide yarn tail inside the body. Make sure to add in any stuffing the body needs before closing up the gap completely.





46) ch1 and turn, starting with the 3rd st from the hook 1sc in next 4st then 2sc in next st (31)

47) ch1 and turn, starting with the 4th st from the hook 1sc in next 28st (30)

48) ch1 and turn, starting with the 4th st from the hook 1sc in next 6st then 2sc in next st (33)

49) ch1 and turn, starting with the 4th st from the hook 1sc in next 31st (32)

50) ch1 and turn, starting with the 4th st from the hook 1sc in next 30st (31)

51) ch1 and turn, starting with the 4th st from the hook 1sc in next 29st (30)

52) ch1 and turn, starting with the 2nd st from the hook 1sc in next 30st (30)

53) ch1 and turn, starting with the 2nd st from the hook 1sc in next 30st (30)

f/o weave yarn tail in



Shoes: with black

1) ch9

2) starting with the 2nd ch from the hook, 1sc in each ch (8) then continue around the other side and put 1sc in each of the outer loops (16)- make sure to add a marker in the last st you put in and move that marker at the end of every row

3)



4) 1sc in each of the BLO (22)

5) 2tog twice, 1sc in next 14st then 2tog twice (18)

6) 2tog twice, 1sc in next 10st then 2tog twice (14)

7) 2tog twice, 1sc in next 6st then 2tog twice (10)

sl st next st then f/o leaving a tail for stuffing into the front of the shoe.





Legs: with skin color 2sc in next 3st, 1sc in next 10st then 2sc in next 3st (22)4) 1sc in each of the BLO (22)5) 2tog twice, 1sc in next 14st then 2tog twice (18)6) 2tog twice, 1sc in next 10st then 2tog twice (14)7) 2tog twice, 1sc in next 6st then 2tog twice (10)sl st next st then f/o leaving a tail for stuffing into the front of the shoe.with skin color



Pants Rolled Up:

begin with a long starting tail that you will use later to sew the leg in and also to sew the pants to the body.

2) 2sc in each st (12)

3) 1sc in BLO

4-15) 1sc in each st for 12 rows

16) 1sc in the FLO

17-18) 1sc in each st for 2 rows

sl st next st and f/o. Weave yarn tail in



Option #2 Pants Not Rolled Up: with color you used to close up the body

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)

begin with a long starting tail that you will use later to sew the leg in and also to sew the pants to the body.

2) 2sc in each st (12)

3) 1sc in BLO

4-19) 1sc in each st for 16 rows

20) 1sc in next 2st then 2sc in next st (15)

21) 1sc in each

sl st next st and f/o. Weave yarn tail in



Assembly of the legs:



If you made the pants that roll up; roll up the bottom of the pant to where the ridge is made from crocheting in the FLO on row 16. The pants should naturally stay rolled up at that ridge but you can add in a stitch to hold them in place if needed.



Push the ball of the leg into the shoe. It should sit in the shoe w/o stitches but you can put in a couple stitches if you think they are needed. Hide yarn tail inside foot.



Push the leg into the pant piece. Using the yarn tail from the pant, sew the top of the leg to the top of the pant.



Once you have both legs assembled, pin them in place on the body to assure the proper placement. Once you are happy with how they are positioned sew them in place.







Sew the arms and the front strips of the coat in place after you paint on the skeleton hands and the stripes around the coat. You can use fabric paint but regular white craft paint works great too.



Use a stiff craft brush. It will take between 2 and 3 coats of paint. Let the paint dry in between coats.



Do not start at one end and paint around to meet up where you started because it will not join up evenly. Instead start the paint in the middle in 2 and work towards the back, having the 2 starting points meet up in the back. Refer to video if this part is confusing.



After the paint is dry, go around with a small pair of scissors and cut off any fibers that are sticking up.



Arms: with the color used for the coat - I did not stuff the arms. You can lightly stuff them if desired

1) magic circle with 6sc (6)

begin with a long starting tail that you will use later to sew the arm in place



Gloves/Hands:



Front Strips on Coat with coat color

strip one:

strip two:

Collar:

Ears: with skin color







Why donating is important and my thank you

I hope you enjoyed this pattern!Why donating is important and my thank you here









Copyright Sharon Ojala - Amigurumi To Go All rights reserved

A revised pattern plus video tutorial. See my original Wybie from 2011 here Because Wybie's colors are so dark I had to use lighter colors while filming the tutorial and in the process I ended up making an Einstein doll.. It was that crazy hair!Einstein pictured above is the exact same pattern as Wybie aside from the facial hair and the big nose. By the way, the mustache is rooted in the same way I rooted in the hair! I put in 2 rows then frizzed it out, same for the eyebrows (1 row) .Ok, enough about Einstein and let's get on with Wybie, his pattern is below and the video tutorial is linked below as wellI worked in continuous rounds with a 3.75mm hook and worsted weight yarn. Have any questions or if you come across a mistake in the pattern please leave a message in the comment section below. This pattern will give you a doll about 8 1/2 inches tall depending on your choice of yarn and hook size.st = stitchsc = single crochet2tog = 2 stitches togethersl st = slip stitchf/o = finish offBLO = back loops onlyFLO = front loops onlyhdc = half double crochet3.7mm hook4 different colors of acrylic, worsted weight medium #4 (Red Heart)dark brown for the hairblack for the coat and shoescolor of your choice for the pantsbrown for the skin. I used Red Heart Comfort, Mocha ~ color code 3191buttons for eyessewing needleyarn needleoptional - 20 gauge wire4 to 8 pipe cleaners (# of pipe cleaners depends on the type you use and if you use wire)fabric tac or tacky gluenap raiser or steel pet brushEach row has a sequence as given below. For example 1sc then 2sc in next st means repeat that sequence 1sc then 2sc in next st followed by 1sc then 2sc in next st over and over to the end of that particular row. The number inside the parentheses ( ~ ) is the number of stitches you should have at the end of that particular row. Click here for the full video tutorial ~ the video was filmed in the following orderIntroduction - important!head - including how to stuffneck - including how to stabilizebody - including how to stuff and close up the opening of the front of the coatpants, legs, shoes and how to assemble and sew onarms and hands - including both fingered and fingerless handhow to paint the white stripes on - how to paint the skeleton on the glovessew on the armshow to put the front strips on the coatmake and sew on collarhow to root in the hair - also how to cut and brush outhow to add in button eyes - also how to do the facehow to make and sew on earsfinal tips on how to style the hairstarting with whatever color you will use for the hair1) magic circle 1) magic circle with 6sc (6)2-14) 1sc in each st for 13 rows15) 2sc in each st (12)16) 1sc in each17) 1sc then 2tog (8)fold a pipe cleaner in half, push the bend into the leg until it's at the very end of the leg.Roll up the 2 ends that are sticking out from the end of the leg and use it to stuff the ball (foot) see photo below.18) 2tog twice then f/o using the yarn tail and a yarn needle, weave in and out of the remaining stitches then pull tight to close up the gap. Knot off and hide yarn tail inside leg.There are 2 ways to do the pants. You could have the pants roll up to expose part of the leg as Wybie wears them or rolled down with no leg exposed. I'll include instructions for both.with color you used to close up the body1) magic circle with 6sc (6)2) 2sc in each st (12)3-5) 1sc in each st for 3 rows6) 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (10)7-10) 1sc in each st for 4 rows11) 1sc then 2sc in next st (15)12) 1sc in the FLO13) 1sc in each stsl st next st and f/o then weave in yarn tail to hide itwith same color as coat1) look inside the arm for the ridge that we created when we crocheted in the FLO, look for where it starts and where it ends (just like you did when you inserted yarn into the body to close it up) choose the 2nd loop from the beginning, pull the yarn through and ch1 (this ch1 counts as a stitch) now put in 1sc all the way around, making sure to crochet the last and first loop together. You should now have 15st2) 1sc in each st (15)3) 1sc in the next 4st then 2sc in next st (18)this is where we will go on and make the fingers. If you don't want to make fingers then continue to row 44) 1sc then 2tog (12)5) 1sc then 2tog (8)6) 2tog twice then f/o leaving a tail for sewingweave in and out of those remaining st then pull to close the hole. Knot off and hide yarn tail in armstart with a long yarn tail and leave a long yarn tail once you f/o for sewing. You can sew or glue these strips in. I found it faster and easier to glue them on.chain about 25. The top of the chain goes in at the top of the coat just at the color change and the bottom of the chain will wrap under the coat.chain about 13. The top will meet up where the coat opens up and the bottom will wrap under the coat.With coat colorsew this part on after the arms and front strip have been sewn on1) ch 312) starting with the 2nd ch from the hook, 1sc in each (30)3) ch1 and turn, starting with the 2nd st from the hook, 1sc in next 3st then 2tog (24)4) ch1 and turn, starting with the 2nd st from the hook, 1sc in next 4st then 2tog (20)f/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Pin into place as pictured then sew around the bottom edge of the collar.make the starting tail a bit on the long side so you can easily sew it into the head. Sew the ears in after you brush out the hair. This will just save them from getting snagged in the brush1) magic circle with 6sc2) ch1 and turn, starting with the 2nd st from the hook, 1sc then 2sc in next st (9)3) ch1 and turn, starting with the 2nd st from the hook, 1sc in each stf/o leaving a long tail for sewing. Shape ears then pin in place. Make sure you are happy with the placements before sewing them in. The top of the ear sits just under the 4th row down from the color change on the head and the bottom of the ear sits just above the 8th row down from the color change.Wrap a good size bundle of yarn loosely around your hand as pictured then cut through the middle at the bottom of the loops.Root each strand of yarn in each st around every row starting at the color change on the head. Once you are done, turn doll upside down and cut the hair.Cutting the yarn this way gives the hair layers which works very well for this style. Don't cut too short! It's better to cut too little and have to cut again then to cut too much. The picture below titled, "The Haircut" is the length that works best.brush, brush, brush then brush some more! You want the yarn to be completely frizzed out. Once it's all frizzed out then cut out little bits here and there to thin out the hair.See the video tutorial for this part as it is easier to show than explain in written form.When you are ready to style the hair I found it helped to dip my fingers in water then twist and wrap the hair into the style I wanted. It also helps to get a picture of Wybie and use it for reference as you style the hair.For how to do the face please view Coraline's pattern right here . I put the face in using the same steps as I did in Coraline's. The video tutorial covers this part of the pattern too!