This raw-fish palace used to be part of a national chain called Todai, and it still offers as much sushi and sashimi as you can down in one meal. The fish is not the highest quality, so don't look for any pricey cuts. But IchiUmi is huge and busy, and that volume made me confident that the sushi is fresh. There are lots of cooked fish and noodle options, too. My waiter told me he saw one customer finish off 11 plates of food. I did three (and a few bowls of green tea ice cream) and could barely walk.