I have a 2wd, not a 4wd. So I'll skip all the dangly bits about a transfer case I don't have.



I didn't drain the transmission fluid. I don't feel like pulling a pan to just put it back on. I kept the TC on. I'm not a huge dude, but I lift. So 250 lbs or so isn't the worst thing in the world. Also, I have a slip yoke for the TC, not a bolt-on. The sterling 10.25 rear axle is a bolt on.



As I said, drop the carrier bearing, remove the driveshaft. If your bolts are stripped, an alligator clamp does wonders.



Remove the transmission lines from the engine (mine broke, but it's okay because I have a manual going in, so...no tranny cooler needed really, at this point). I'll probably let mine hang off for now, since I have no use for them.



Remove all the electronics, and the shift linkage. I chose to let the actual transmission shifter stay attached to the engine, and instead removed the support piece up towards the bellhousing, which was 2-3 18mm (?) bolts.



There's a wire behind a cover plate held in by two 8mm bolts. Get some adapters from 3/8 to 1/4 and use the 8mm on them. I partially re-threaded them when I was done. Same with the big bolts I mentioned above.



Okay. Now the crux of my work today. The gosh darn filler tube bolt. That thing is the spawn of satan. It's on the back of the engine, only reachable with a wrench. Crack it loose, get in there and un-thread it. Pull the filler tube dipstick, then the tube will drop down. Rethread the bolt and tighten it with the ground wire attached.



Remove the flywheel cover. You don't have to. I felt it was worth doing. One less piece out of the way.



At this point you can pull the transmission. If you're using heat, be careful because the transmission could heat up... bad news. Don't heat the bellhousing bolts. The crossmember bolts you can.



This is where I'm at right now. Other mentionable things:



One of the photos shows the doghouse hole I cut. It isn't pretty. I tried to make it as small as i can to keep some warmth in place. I'll refine it better once the transmission is in and I'm able to feel out the shifts.



The first photo shows my new driveshaft. And the packaging it comes with. If you order online, expect this. Expect a bad cleanup. It sucks. Make sure to clean out the two pieces where they connect.



Second photo is the driveshaft removed (obviously).



Third is the doghouse.



Fourth is the flywheel cover removed.



Fifth is the transmission on the jack.



This is where I stopped for the day. I've been outside for maybe 4 hours. Bare in mind I've done other parts of the swap before this. The doghouse I did a few days ago and took me about 30 minutes. The clutch assmebly I did probably about two weeks ago.



I'd suggest waiting to put the hydraulic clutch in until last. No reason to have it dangling around.



The starter has wires long enough to keep it on the i-beam or torsion bar on the front without dangling it from them. If this swap is taking you two or three days, cover the starter so it doesn't get corroded by... snow. or rain. Or hurricanes.



If you're doing this swap and its cold out, bundle up and take breaks once in awhile to drink some water. Suprisingly, water will keep you from becoming hypothermic.



If there are any questions about this swap, or you want specific photos, feel free to ask and I'll try to take them.