Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

This story was originally posted on Jan. 15, 2019.

Pasta. Sauce.

You don't have to be Italian to swoon upon mention of those words. Worldwide consumption of pasta increased for the second straight year in 2017, with the U.S. leading the pasta market - 2.7 million tons consumed last year.

And sauce? Most supermarkets stock dozens of kinds. Marinara. Tomato and basil. Tomato, garlic and onion. Tomato and herb. Vodka. Bolognese. Puttanesca. Pomodoro. Arrabbiata.

There have been rankings of pasta sauces - the Chicago Tribune sampled 12; Thrillist sampled 13. To which we say: Child's play.

No one has come close to doing what we did - 129 sauces sampled, with every major sauce brand available in New Jersey ranked from worst to best. A total of 14 stores were visited - we were thorough if nothing else - with the sauces sampled over five days. Two sauces per brand (most suggested by readers) were sampled; several brands were represented by one sauce only.

This is the fourth of our epic supermarket showdowns; we've ranked frozen pizza, snacks and breakfast cereal.

What is the best pasta sauce brand? The worst? Read on for the results, and tell us about your favorite sauce in the comments section.

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How the sampling was done

One pasta was used throughout the sampling - De Cecco Linguine no. 7. Eight one-pound boxes in all were used. Each sauce was sampled two ways - on its own after being simmered in a pan, then over the linguine.

Water provided refreshment; no wine was consumed during the sampling.

For each brand listed below, we'll quote something from the label. The sauces' backstories are illuminating and often entertaining. You'd be amazed how many of these sauces are based on "secret'' recipes.

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65. Hunt's

One of America's most popular brands of sauce, paste and diced tomatoes, Hunt's is a tomato titan; 465 trailer loads of tomatoes come into the plant every day. The company is owned by Conagra.

What the label says: "Premium'' sauce.

Garlic & Herb: 610 mg of sodium, maybe the highest of all the pastas sampled. Bottom of the barrel? This may be it. Use only in case of national emergency.

Traditional: Almost a sickly sweet taste. Anyone who uses this sauce should have their head, and taste buds, examined.

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64. Don Pepino

Don Pepino sauce, according to the company website, "comes from an Old World Family recipe that continues to be enjoyed to this very day. The mouth watering, delicious taste combines the finest ingredients, with a secret blend of imported spices, non-cholesterol corn oil and lightly flavored with salt.''

Spaghetti sauce: Whoever recommended this should be sent to sauce school. Funky, low-grade tomato taste. The colorful can is the best thing about this sauce.

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63. ShopRite

ShopRite is one of several supermarkets here to distribute their own sauce.

What the label says: "A genuine Italian sauce full of juicy whole cherry tomatoes combined with Mediterranean ingredients.'' (Puttanesca)

Wholesome Pantry Italian Herb: For some reason, it reminded me of a Christmas tree, with its piney scent. That's generally not an aroma you'd want in a tomato sauce, though.

Puttanesca: I really wanted to like this especially after that buildup on the label, but those "juicy'' tomatoes tasted flat.

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62. Vincent's

The original Vincent's Clam Bar opened in 1904; founders Giuseppe and Carmela Siano had sold clams, mussels and scungilli from a pushcart in Little Italy for 10 years previous.

What the label says: "This old-world recipe remains the same since it was first created over 100 years ago.''

Marinara: Way too salty, more phony-tomato taste.

Medium: This is one weird-tasting sauce - sweet, oniony, puree-like. I wrote "eek'' in my notebook, and I meant it.

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61. Barilla

Pietro Barilla opened his bread and pasta shop in Parma in 1877; the first factory came along in 1910. The company's first U.S. pasta plant opened in Ames, Iowa in 1999. Barilla describes itself as "the world leader in the pasta market.''

What the label says: "Real taste comes from real vegetables.''

Roasted garlic: Fake, metallic-tasting tomato sauce. Maybe more garlic would help.

Tuscan Herb: More fake tomatoey taste, salty. Avoid at all costs.

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60. Market Pantry

Market Pantry is Target's brand of sauce.

What the label says: "1 1/2 servings of vegetables per 1/2 cup sauce.''

Traditional Pasta Sauce: Do everything but sauce shopping at Target. It's surpassingly bland, more puree than sauce.

Tomato, Basil & Garlic: Call it beginner's Ragu. Tastes like it was made in an Easy-Bake pasta oven, if such a thing existed.

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59. Ragu

In Italy, "ragu'' means sauce made with meat. Ragu the company traces its roots to Assunta Cantisano, who in 1914 left Naples, bound for America "with little more than her family's pasta sauce recipe to her name,'' according to the company website.

What the label says: "Delicious, hearty & filling.''

Old World Style Flavored with Meat: It's not awful; kind of laboratory-grade tomatoes. Tastes like something they'd serve in the high school cafeteria.

Simply Traditional: Banish this immediately to the Island of Lost Sauces. Better than Hunt's, but barely.

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58. Prego

Prego is part of the Camden-based Campbell Soup Co., which also owns Pepperidge Farm, Swanson's, and Goldfish crackers, among other brands.

What the label says: "Prego Farmers Market sauces use ingredients you'd find at your local farmers' markets, like vine-ripened tomatoes picked at the peak of freshness.''

Prego Farmers Market Classic Marinara: Serviceable, nothing special, better than regular Prego.

Italian Sausage & Garlic: I cringed when this sauce hit my lips. Points for the real sausage, I guess, even if they look and taste sketchy.

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57. DeLallo

DeLallo started as an Italian market in Jeannette, Pa. Today, the company says it offers "the largest selection (of) olives and antipasti from all over the world.''

What the label says: "Fresh, simple, authentic'' (Marinara); "Brimming with the simple goodness of summer's freshest flavors'' (Tomato Basil)

Marinara: Salty, oniony, skip.

Tomato Basil: Metallic, kind of buttery aftertaste.

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56. Pellicano's

Pellicano's offers "America's most unique line of specialty sauces,'' according to the company, which opened its manufacturing plant in South Buffalo in 2009. Seventy percent of its business is private label.

What the label says: "Made from the finest organically grown California tomatoes. Let yourself indulge a little.'' (Tuscan Garden Traditional Pasta Sauce)

Marinara: Yuck and yikes. Tastes like puree, and a substandard one at that. They need to toss that "original recipe.''

Tuscan Garden Traditional Pasta Sauce: Another puny puree-like sauce.

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55. Wegmans

Wegmans, with nearly 100 stores on the East Coast, is another supermarket to distribute its own pasta sauces - Grandma's, Grandpa's, pesto, vodka and tomato basil, among others.

What the label says: "Savor the taste of Italy'' (Grandma's Pomodoro Sauce); "Our Food You Feel Good About yellow banner is your shortcut to great-tasting products'' (Mushroom)

Grandma's Pomodoro Sauce: If my Grandma made this sauce, I'd throw her out of the kitchen. Thick, pretty much devoid of flavor.

Mushroom: I'll take their word for it. No pieces in the sauce, unless they were microscopic.

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54. Emeril's

Celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse owns restaurants in New Orleans, Las Vegas, Miramar, Fla., and Bethlehem, Pa.

What the label says: "Garlic lovers rejoice. This robust sauce is loaded with the good stuff. ... The sauce is perfectly balanced'' (Roasted Gaaahlic); "The best marinara sauce I know how to make. It's rich and smooth with a real deep flavor'' (Marinara)

Roasted Gaaahlic: Not as garlicky as I expected, plus an off-putting, lemony aftertaste.

Home Style Marinara: Emeril, even I can do better than this. Get back in the kitchen and try again.

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53. Rienzi

Rienzi was founded in 1967 by Mike Rienzi, who started by selling his mozzarella to pizzerias in New York City. The company now owns 2,000 acres of farmland in Southern Italy.

What the label says: "Purely produced from Italian tomatoes grown on Rienzi farms in the Basilicata region'' (Primavera); "The authentic Southern Italian taste'' (Tomato Basil)

Primavera: If you like an uber-oniony sauce, this is for you. I'll pass.

Tomato Basil: It's not easy to be harsh and bland at the same time, but this one manages to pull it off.

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52. Marinelli's

Marinelli was founded "on the principle of paying respect to my Italian culinary heritage by creating the finest pasta sauce available,'' says owner Adriano Marinelli.

What the label says: "We use only 100 percent hand-selected tomatoes that have been gathered at the peak of ripeness. ... We know you will not be disappointed'' (Vine Tomato & Fresh Basil); "Vegetables are delivered daily to our kitchen where everything is carefully peeled and prepared'' (Slow Roasted Whole Garlic)

Vine Tomato & Fresh Basil: Well, I was disappointed. Tastes like it not so much came off as fell off the assembly line.

Slow Roasted Whole Garlic: Salty, almost harsh-tasting. And I love garlic.

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51. Great Value

Great Value, a Walmart brand, certainly lives up to its name; at 88 cents (!!) it was the cheapest of all the sauces sampled here.

What the label says: "A full serving of veggies in every 1/2 cup of pasta sauce.''

Chunky Tomato, Garlic & Onion: Not horrible, the kind you foist on the kids, or that cousin from Idaho, neither of which know any better.

Traditional Pasta Sauce: If you're looking for a lower-priced (and slightly better-tasting) Prego or Ragu substitute, this is it.

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50. Yo Mama's

Yo Mama's is "fanatical about improving the world not simply through our production methods, but also through the bonds that are created around food,'' according to the company website.

What the label says: "Inspired by Nonna's legendary Italian recipe'' (Marinara); "Lovingly made in small batches for delectable flavors'' (Basil Fresh Tomatoes)

Original Marinara: Oniony, and that's about it.

Basil Fresh Tomatoes: Maybe the lowest sodium content, a mere 180 mg., of all the sauces sampled. But way too oniony for my liking.

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49. 365 Everyday Value

365 Everyday Value is a Whole Foods brand.

What the label says: "We sell the highest quality natural and organic products.''

Organic Marinara Pasta Sauce: Chunky tomatoes, but salty and near-flavorless.

Organic Italian Herb Pasta Sauce: For an organic sauce, it's not bad. Thick, tomatoey, but begs for flavor.

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48. Bertolli

In 1865, Francesco and Caterina Bertolli opened a small grocery store beneath their home in Lucca, Tuscany. In 1875, they shipped their famous olive oil to America, making Bertolli "the pioneer of olive oil in the U.S.,'' according to the company.

What the label says: "Bring Tuscany to your table.''

Olive Oil & Garlic: Not bad; you can definitely taste the olive oil. Several steps up from Ragu and Prego.

Traditional Marinara: So-so sauce. Sometimes that's not the worst thing.

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47. Cento

Cento's roots can be traced to Alfred Ciccotelli, who began selling imported Italian foods in the 1950s. In 1962, he founded Alanric Food Distributors, which later became Cento. The company offers 1,000+ specialty products through its various brands.

What the label says: "A tasty, authentic Italian style sauce perfect for busy people who desire delicious meals that require little preparation.''

Cento Tomato Sauce: Tastes like tomato soup; no one's so busy that they can't find a better sauce on the shelf.

Cento White Clam Sauce: Didn't expect much, but this is more than passable if you're craving a clam sauce. Too watery, though.

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46. Organico Bello

Chef Neil Fusco grew up on the family farm in southern Italy. Later, he "developed a passion for making light and healthy pasta sauces, which led to Organico Bello, which uses organic tomatoes grown in Italy, '' according to the company.

What the label says: "What a real organic pasta sauce should taste like.''

Organic Marinara: A real sauce of any kind shouldn't taste this bland.

Organic Kale Tomato Basil: If you're craving kale in your sauce ... not bad.

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45. Tuttorosso

Tuttorosso makes the best-selling canned tomatoes in the U.S. (Epicurious named them best canned tomato.)

What the label says: "Discerning Italian cooks know the only way to consistently make the most delicious sauce is to start with premium quality Tuttorosso tomato products'' (Tomato Basil); "Authentic, slow-simmered flavor without the wait'' (Marinara)

Tomato & Basil: Puree-like sauce, doesn't taste real-tomatoey.

Marinara: "Authentic'' shouldn't mean flavorless.

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44. Colonna

Dominic Colonna emigrated from Pisticci, Italy, in 1902, founding Colonna Brothers in 1918. He grated and stored cheeses in his store's back garage. The company is headquartered in North Bergen.

What the label says: "Quality sauce since 1918.''

Roasted Garlic Sauce: Near-lifeless, puree-like, not even that garlicky.

Tomato Basil: Forgettable.

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43. Paesana

"The world's best sauce'' is the modest claim by Paesana, where the owners honor their great-grandmother "to reflect pride in our family's Italian heritage.''

What the label says: A 102-year-old recipe from "our great grandfather,'' with a sauce "robust and full of flavor'' (Marinara).

Marinara: Good, no-nonsense sauce. Thinnish; flavor seems more wholesome than robust.

Sicilian Gravy: Fake-tomatoey taste. I'd rather use real gravy - the kind you put on your mashed potatoes on Thanksgiving.

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42. Francesco Rinaldi

Giovanni LiDestri started out working for Ragu, later founding Francesco Rinaldi.

What the label says: "Our original secret spice blend, formulated in our family's hometown of Tusa, Italy has remained unchanged'' (Tomato, Garlic & Onion); " . . . made by Italians. Our family's American dream come true'' (Marinara).

Tomato, Garlic & Onion: Aggressively garlicky, oniony, puree-like. Not disagreeable.

Marinara: OK; could use herbs, spices, something.

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41. Colavita

Giovanni and Felice Colavita started with a small olive mill in the region of Molise, Italy in 1938. In 1979 Colavita began to distribute its olive oil around the world. US headquarters are in Edison, N.J. and Dixon, Ca.

What the label says: "Premium sauce from the Colavita collection . . . made in small batches using the finest all-natural ingredients.''

Tomato Basil: Salty, more puree than sauce, ok.

Spicy marinara: Kind of bland, kind of ordinary, and maybe I'm being too kind.

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40. Contadina

The Aiello brothers formed Contadina in 1918; their goal was "to produce canned tomatoes that matched the standard set in their native Italy.'' The company was the first U.S. producer of canned tomato paste.

What the label says: "Patience is what makes our Italian style tomatoes so full of rich, robust flavor.''

Contadina Sauce: Another tomato-soup-tasting sauce, but leagues ahead of Hunt's or Ragu.

Contadina Sauce with Natural Sea Salt: Somewhat less tomato-soupy, this would be quite serviceable if you added herbs and/or spices.

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39. Mid's

"A stained, well-guarded recipe for red tomato sauce was one of the few precious possessions her daughter carefully packed in her bag when she and her new husband left for America,'' is the story behind Mid's.

They definitely win the award for hardest-to-open jars: I had to whack the lids repeatedly with a big metal spoon.

What the label says: "Mid's sauces are crafted in small batches using only the freshest ingredients ... kettle simmered for hours ... The old way is still the best.''

Tomato Basil: Maybe switch kettles next time, tastes like more paste than sauce.

Italian sausage: Better than the tomato basil, but that's not saying too much. Pastosa's meat sauce (see below) makes this one look amateurish.

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38. Mezzetta

Giuseppe Mezzetta initially worked as a window cleaner when he came to the U.S. In 1935, he and his son opened a small market in San Francisco's North Beach section. The company moved to Sonoma, Ca. in 1980.

What the label says: "Real Food. Real Farmers. Real Family. Real Recipe. Real Good.''

Napa Valley Homemade Tomato & Sweet Basil: Distinctive, but not necessarily in a good way. Thick, somewhat cheesy-tasting.

Napa Valley Homemade Marinara: Above average, infinitely better than Emeril's.

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37. Newman's Own

Newman, of course, is the late Paul Newman, who founded the company in 1982. One hundred percent of profits go to charity; to date, the company has donated more than $500 million to organizations around the world.

What the label says: "Peppers, spices and the whole shebang'' (Sockarooni)

Marinara: What we've got here is a failure ... to make good pasta sauce.

Sockarooni: Peppery indeed, otherwise doesn't come close to living up to its billing.

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36. The Meatball Shop

In 2010, chef Daniel Holzman teamed up with childhood friend Michael Chernow and opened The Meatball Shop on New York City's Lower East Side. They are the authors of "The Meatball Shop Cookbook."

What the label says: "We opened the Meatball Shop in 2010 with the goal of serving delicious food made with wholesome ingredients. ... now we're bringing you our most popular sauce.''

Classic Tomato Sauce: Another by-the-numbers sauce, perfectly fine, but you expected better.

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35. Little Italy in the Bronx

Little Italy in the Bronx is a collaboration between the Belmont BID and Ohio-based Summer Garden Foods. "Each sauce label pays homage to neighborhood,'' according to the website. "It describes what we have accomplished as a community ..."

What the label says: "Crafted from imported Italian tomatoes and sweet basil leaves.''

Marinara: Subtly seasoned, decent, but I'm not driving to my local supermarket, much less the Bronx, to get it.

Tomato Basil: Acceptable; doesn't stand out in any way, though.

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34. Nicastro's

The original Nicastro's opened in the mid-1920s in Newark. The sauce is billed as "the king of sauces.''

What the label says: "Over the years, it became one of Newark's most famous restaurants, well known for its atmosphere and family style dinners.''

Vodka: Bland and punchless. Maybe they left out the vodka?

Marinara: Nice chunky tomatoes, a bit of flavor. I'd downgrade that "king'' to maybe "prince'' or "esteemed townsfolk.''

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33. Signature Reserve

Signature Reserve is a brand from the Alberstons Companies that also includes product lines of ice cream, coffee and tea. Signature Reserve is part of the company's Signature brands, which generated $6 billion in sales last year.

What the label says: "Our sauces are made by layering ingredients and traditional slow-stirring, which brings out a luscious texture and complex flavors.''

Tomato & Basil: Thick, chunky, a bit tart, above average, but expected more from something called "Reserve.''

Pomodoro: Assertive oniony, sugary taste. Distinctive, anyway.

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32. Botticelli

There's nothing about the company history on Botticelli's website other than this: "Five generations of experience has made Botticelli olive oil a celebration of flavor.''

What the label says: "Made from the finest and freshest Italian tomatoes.''

Alla vodka: One of the better vodka sauces in this sampling; pleasing, balanced.

Marinara: Salty, oniony; the alla vodka is markedly better.

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31. Lidia's

Lidia Bastianich presides over a food empire - six restaurants, five Eataly markets, plus she's a TV host, cookbook author and president of an entertainment company. There's also a line of pastas and sauces.

What the label says: "Made with natural ingredients.''

Marinara: Your basic marinara, slightly tart/spicy.

Vodka: Milky/cheesy, one of the better vodkas.

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30. The Jersey Tomato Co.

The New Jersey tomato "has been recognized around the world as the best since 1934,'' proclaims The Jersey Tomato Co., based in Westwood. Their sauces are made "with 100% New Jersey tomatoes using farm fresh recipes.''

What the label says: "All Natural. All Jersey. All Good.''

Tomato basil: Classic tomatoey taste, expected it to be tastier, though.

Spicy: Spicy, garlicky, not bad.

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29. Bongiovi

Yes, that Bongiovi. After "years of encouragement,'' the singer's dad - he's known as Mr. B - "has agreed to produce his family's classic pasta sauces with the caveat that a portion of the proceeds be donated to charity,'' according to the website.

What the label says: Ingredients are a "closely guarded secret.''

Marinara: It's ok; no need to guard that secret.

Dad's Original: Different; red and green bell peppers separate it from much of the pasta pack.

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28. Sonoma Gourmet

Sonoma Gourmet was founded in 1990 by two chefs inspired by the wine country's fine food and drink. The company makes pasta and pizza sauces, plus olive oil.

What the label says: "Handcrafted in Sonoma, Ca.''

Cherry Tomato with Basil: A bit salty, but you can definitely taste the basil, and the cherry tomatoes are a tasty twist.

Roasted Garlic: Woah, you can smell that garlic at 50 paces. Good sauce, but you'd better like garlic.

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27. Monte Bene

Chef Neil Lusco at Monte Bene grew up on a farm in Southern Italy, where "we learned to cherish the earth because we cherished those moments together and ultimately because we cherished each other.'' Cherish, apparently, is the word.

What the label says: "Our traditional sauce is a family recipe that originated from generations of Italian farmers.''

Tomato Basil: Pleasing, slightly sweet.

Garlic Marinara: Chunky tomatoes, otherwise middle-of-the-road. Ranking would have been much higher if it were as good as the tomato basil.

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26. Gia Russa

Gia Russa, founded in 1948, is "the maker of the world's most sought after pasta sauces and Italian specialties,'' according to the company.

What the label says: "Gia Russa's vision has been to create a family of select sauces made from classic Italian recipes.''

Hot Sicilian: Hot peppers bring the heat. Not really an arrabbiata but a marinara with serious attitude. I liked it a lot.

Marinara: A middling marinara; their Hot Sicilian is so much better.

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25. The Original Jersey Italian Gravy

Carlos Vega, owner of The Original Jersey Italian Gravy, worked in an Italian restaurant when younger. Many years later, he purchased the restaurant's recipe for its sauce,"that rich, hauntingly delicious tomato gravy that made everything it touched special.''

What the label says: "No added spices. Only 5 ingredients.''

The Original Jersey Italian Gravy: Maybe the sweetest sauce of all those sampled (onions, cane sugar). ''Hauntingly delicious?'' Stop it.

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24. Trader Joe's

Trader Joe's actually started as a small chain of convenience stores - Pronto Markets - in 1958. In 1967, the name was changed to Trader Joe's and the stores got bigger. Today, there are nearly 500 stores in 41 states.

What the label says: "Italian tomatoes are very different from their American cousins. The inside pulp is more dense and meaty and the taste is sweeter and less acidic'' (Rustico Pomodoro).

Italian Marinara Sauce with Barolo Wine: You can smell the wine a supermarket aisle away; heady, thick sauce. Somewhat salty, but better than expected.

Trader Giotto's Rustico Pomodoro Pasta Sauce: Not bad at all. Trader Joe's grades out higher than Wegman's or Whole Foods.

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23. Michaels of Brooklyn

Michaels of Brooklyn, the restaurant, opened on Avenue R in 1964. The Food Network named its veal parmigiana among the top five Italian foods in America.

What the label says: "Imported Italian tomatoes, fresh basil, fresh garlic, Italian olive oil, spices and fresh parsley. Nothing else.''

Fresh Tomato & Basil: Maybe those tomatoes were in the sun too long. A sauce this expensive should be better.

Home Style Gravy: Hearty, somewhat complex, semi-thick, but another legendary-NYC-Italian-restaurant sauce I thought would be better.

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22. Nanina's in the Park

Nanina's - "the best wedding venue in New Jersey" - is also a renowned Italian restaurant. Head chef Vincento Loretti learned from his grandfather in Campania "the true secret of how to create delicious, authentic Italian cuisine.''

What the label says: "Voted #1 pasta sauce by Italian Tribune.''

Marinara: Interesting, sorta-kinda wholesome tomatoey taste. Could use some herbs/seasoning.

Fra Diavolo: Expected it to be spicier. Still pretty decent.

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21. Uncle Steve's

Uncle Steve is Steve Schirripa, who played Bobby Baccalieri on "The Sopranos.''

What the label says: "Growing up in Brooklyn, Sunday morning was the day you would wake up to the aroma of tomatoes, garlic and olive oil simmering on mom's stove as she prepared the sauce for dinner.''

Organic arrabbiata: not as spicy nor as good as Batali's, but decent enough.

Arrabbiata: Almost twice as much sodium as the organic arrabbiata, maybe a smidge spicier.

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20. Dave's Gourmet

Dave Hirschkop, the founder of Dave's Gourmet, started in the food business with a taqueria called Burrito Madness, where he created "the hottest hot sauce in the universe.'' He now presides over a specialty foods company.

What the label says: "An amazing, savory flavor which comes from rich porcini and buttery shiitake mushrooms, garlic, red wine, sage and tomatoes'' (All-Natural Wild Mushroom); "a delicious sauce that is light, fresh and bursting with flavor'' (Organic Red Heirloom).

All-Natural Wild Mushroom: I'm tasting more garlic than mushrooms. I really wanted to like this sauce.

Organic Red Heirloom: Love the boatload of chunky tomatoes, but a bit too sweet.

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19. The Silver Palate

The Silver Palate, which began as a food store on Manhattan's Upper West Side 35 years ago, easily wins the award for most colorful self-promotion. The sauce, besides being ''delicious, nutritious, frugal and fun,'' is an "Italian opera in every jar,'' Wait, there's more.

What the label says: "When you taste this superb sauce, you may imagine hearing a beautiful Italian aria.''

Marinara oreganata: Onions and carrots give it some personality; better than average.

San Marzano Marinara: Fine, no-fireworks marinara.

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18. La Famiglia DelGrosso

La Famiglia DelGrosso, founded in 1914, calls itself America's oldest sauce maker. It all began with Marianna Pulcino, who immigrated to America in 1911, "bringing with her an old-world recipe for pasta sauce.''

Chef John's Tomato Basil Masterpiece: Hardly. But it's good, not salty, just enough basil.

Aunt Mary Ann's Sunday Marinara: Salty, but there's some complexity there.

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17. Muir Glen

Muir Glen was founded 25 years ago "on the belief that there must be a way to grow a better-tasting tomato - it must be grown organically.''

What the label says: Tomatoes are grown "in California's sunny Sacramento Valley under the tender care of farmers passionate about organic agriculture.''

Organic Chunky Tomato & Herb: A bit too herby, but I'll take it over the bland marinaras that populate this list.

Organic Tomato Basil: More than passable, organic or not. Thick, hearty, oniony. One of the top organic sauces.

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16. Lucini

Lucini's mission is to create "authentic, hand-crafted foods inspired by the culinary traditions of Italy.''

What the label says: "Our recipe for good food is simple - use only a few fresh ingredients of extraordinary quality.''

Rustic Tomato Basil: Disappointing. We obviously have different definitions of "extraordinary.''

Tuscan Marinara: Hmmm, nice, rich, deep tomatoey taste. A first-rate organic sauce.

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15. Mario Batali

Shortly after graduating from Rutgers University, Mario Batali received his first formal culinary training at Le Cordon Bleu in London. He and Joe Bastianich would open Babbo in NYC, and the two ran restaurants from New York to Singapore until the B + B Hospitality Group severed ties with the celebrity chef. The Batali sauces are made by Summer Garden Foods in Ohio.

What the label says: "Crafted from imported Italian tomatoes, purely produced with all fresh chopped onions and fresh garlic.''

Arrabbiata: Got my attention, for sure. A nice sauce, with a tart/spicy tomatoey taste.

Tuna sauce: I expected a more pronounced tuna taste. Oniony. Points for being different, anyway.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

14. Corrado's

Corrado's Market is a local food legend, with locations in Clifton, Wayne, North Arlington and Fairfield.

What the label says: "There is a difference.''

Vodka Sauce: Maybe the best vodka sauce of those sampled. Ingredients include tomatoes, salt, black pepper, oil, garlic, basil, heavy cream and vodka.

Storemade Marinara Sauce: A bit humdrum, but at least it doesn't have that mass-produced taste.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

13. Ethnic Cottage

Ethnic Cottage is a line of Indian cooking sauces and Jersey tomato sauces.

What the label says: "Decadent and full of flavor. . . a rich blend of Jersey tomatoes, fresh cream, vodka and Romano cheese'' (Vodka); "A deliciously prepared pasta sauce made with sweet tasting basil, flavorful Jersey fresh tomatoes, pure olive oil and a wonderful blend of fresh spices'' (Tomato Basil)

Vodka: Quite tasty, better than Botticelli or Lidia's.

Tomato Basil: No extra points for the Jersey tomatoes, but this is a quality oniony/garlicky sauce.

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12. Cucina Antica

Neil Lusco, the chef behind Cucina Antica, grew up in Southern Italy, the first-born son of Italian farmers who would emigrate to the U.S.

What the label says: "Since the 1800s my family has farmed the world's best San Marzano tomatoes in Southern Italy.'' (from Chef Neil Lusco)

Tomato Basil: Sweet, light, oniony, distinctive.

Garlic Marinara: Bold, garlicky taste, but nowhere as good as the tomato basil.

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11. Patsy's Italian Restaurant

Patsy's is a New York restaurant icon, founded in 1944 by Pasquale "Patsy'' Scognamillo. It's known as the restaurant "Frank Sinatra made famous.''

What the label says: "Patsy's highly-acclaimed tomato basil is a Neapolitan classic bursting with fresh sweet basil and onions.''

All Natural Tomato Basil: Sweet, with the onions. Upper-tier, not quite at the top.

Fra Diavolo: Crushed red pepper brings the spice. A fine, feisty fra diavolo. Tastes like it was made in someone's kitchen. I'd buy this again.

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10. Mia Cucina

Mia Cucina is a Jersey-based sauce that traces its roots to Antonio Celentano, who opened a dairy store in Newark in the early 1900s. Celentano, now part of Rosina Food Products, is best known for its ravioli.

What the label says: "100 percent New Jersey crushed tomatoes ... New Jersey merlot wine'' (Marinara with Merlot).

Marinara Sauce: Thick, garlicky, a bit peppery, overall a quality sauce.

Marinara with Merlot: You can definitely taste that merlot. I liked this one a lot.

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9. Vesper Bros. Foods

Bill and John Vesper, owners of Vesper Brothers Foods, grew up in their father's deli outside Philly. Their first sauce was a marinara based on their grandmother's recipe. When she tasted it for the first time, she approved.

What the label says: "We're proud to bring you our line of fine Italian foods, including our signature marinara.''

Tomato basil: Wholesome, tomatoey taste, but could use some herbs/seasoning.

Marinara: A husky, hearty sauce.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

8. Seggiano

Seggiano is named after a small village in southern Tuscany where Peri Eagleton and David Harrison have farmed organic olives since 1985.

What the label says: "A generous amount of fresh garlic . . . made for us in Sicily using naturally sun-sweetened tomatoes'' (Marinara Garlic Organic); "Pasta arrabbiata is the classic Southern Italian dish for passionate hotheads'' (Arrabbiata Chili Organic).

Marinara Garlic Organic Pasta Sauce: "Generous'' may be an understatement about the garlic. Thicker than most. Recommended.

Arrabbiata Chili Organic Pasta Sauce: Spicy from the get. Thick, puckish sauce. A winner.

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7. Rao's Homemade

There were more recommendations for Rao's than any other sauce when I announced this mission on Twitter. The restaurant opened in New York City in 1896; there are now also locations in Las Vegas and Los Angeles.

What the label says: "Bring the taste of the famous Rao's New York restaurant home. Enjoy our original marinara sauce recipe with Italian flavors perfected over generations'' (Marinara); "The rich blend of tomatoes, aged Parmigiano reggiano and pecorino Romano cheese with a splash of vodka is a bright, creamy sauce that accents any dish'' (Vodka).

Marinara: Upper echelon of marinaras, but there are better ones on this list.

Vodka: Merely OK; not as good as Lidia's or Corrado's.

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6. Joe Leone's Italian Specialties

Joe Leone's is an Italian specialty food store in Point Pleasant Beach (there is another location in Sea Girt). There is nothing on the label about the ingredients.

Bolognese: Now that's a real made-at-home kind of sauce, meaty, tomatoey. Definitely would buy again.

Marinara sauce: Good. Tastes like carrots are in there somewhere. Would love to see the ingredients.

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5. Il Mulino

Il Mulino started in New York 30-plus years ago and now includes restaurants in Manhattan, Long Island, South Beach and Atlantic City.

What the label says: "Decadent signature sauces ... 30 years of excellence.''

Marinara: Unfussy, unfancy, thoroughly enjoyable.

Vodka: In the running for best vodka sauce.

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4. Hoboken Farms

Hoboken Farms is "the only family-owned American company that has organically grown from a local, outdoor farm market concern to a beloved emerging national brand,'' according to the company.

What the label says: "The most glorious sauce in the ever-lovin' universe'' (Marinara).

Marinara: Oh calm down, already. It's good, sweet and chunky.

Basil marinara: You can sure smell the basil. One of the three or four best marinaras.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

3. Victoria

Victoria began with an Italian family immigrating to Brooklyn in 1929, and that's about all the background you'll find on the company website.

What the label says: "Using the freshest premium ingredients has always come first ... we use roughly chopped tomatoes, giving our sauce its chunky texture.''

White Linen Marinara: Good, honest tomatoey taste. Available at Costco since 2006. I paid $14.49 for a 40-ounce bottle on Amazon.

Fra Diavolo: Solid sauce; for spicy, Seggiano is better.

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2. Pastosa

The first Pastosa Ravioli store opened in 1966 in Brooklyn. There are now 11 stores, including Cranford, Florham Park, Manalapan and Wall.

What the label says: Not much; it's just a list of ingredients.

Meat Sauce: Imported Italian tomatoes, pork and beef, onion, pure olive oil, black pepper, spices. Fresh, just-made taste, old-fashioned goodness. Maybe my favorite single sauce in the entire competition.

Marinara: Not as memorable as the meat sauce, but still well-above-average.

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Peter Genovese I NJ Advance Media for NJ.com

1. Classico

Classico, which offers two dozen pasta sauces, is distinguished by its Mason jars.

What the label says: "Authentic Italian flavors, carefully-crafted ingredients, time-honored recipes.''

Classico Riserva Marinara: Thick, hearty, fresh, tomatoey. The best marinara sauce sampled.

Tomato & Basil: Tart and tasty. Bursting with flavor.

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What's your favorite pasta sauce?

We all have our favorite jarred pasta sauces - what's yours? If you avoid jarred sauces altogether and make your own sauce at home, we'd like to hear what you put into it. Let us know in the comments section.

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More tasty stories about Italian food

The 44 best pasta dishes you can eat in N.J.

N.J.'s best Italian restaurant: The 10 finalists revealed

All 37 frozen pizza brands available in New Jersey, ranked from worst to best