“I found the recipe of this cake on the internet,” one of the women remarked, when her cake was praised by everyone, “it was called waves of Dunay, but I called it banks of Inguri,” she said laughing, referring to the river Inguri, which runs in Svaneti and borders with the occupiedterritory of Abkhazia.

The cemetery is full of people, different Chartolani families. Everyone feasts and sets torches -lamprebi - on fire. In Svaneti there is different rule of drinking toasts. Toasts are long and traditional. The first toasts have not changed for many years – they have to first drink a toast for God, a toast for St George, a toast to Mary and then a toast for the deceased.

Garbage is collected and we move back to car, where conversation again concerns politics. But the day wasn’t over, as the head of the family of Lela invited us to feast with him. A supra was organized. We chatted for hours, mostly about the unique traditions in Svaneti, keeping the rule of four toasts in the beginning and ending up in praise of Georgia and its different regions.