Photos by Suzanne Hurt, Special to The Oregonian/OregonLive

The Crooked River winds through the gorge beneath the crags of Smith Rock State Park in September.

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The Smith Rock State Park area now offers more than 2,200 roped routes and bouldering problems drawing climbers from around the planet.



As the climbing season kicks into gear, longtime climbers provided tips for those planning a trip there.



Alan Watts, the father of American sport climbing who's updating his book, "Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park: A Comprehensive Guide To More Than 1,800 Routes" (Falcon Guides, 2009), offered this advice for climbers:



"Just keep at it. If you can stay fit and keep moving, it's fairly easy — whatever sport — to keep up your skills," he said.

READ MORE: Oregon's Smith Rock beckons climbers from around the world

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Photos by Suzanne Hurt, Special to The Oregonian/OregonLive

Abbey Larkin of Bend, a junior at OSU Cascades, approaches the anchors as she leads the first pitch of Time to Power on Shipwreck Wall at Smith Rock State Park.

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WHEN TO CLIMB

Fall through spring is best for climbing.

Autumn climbing runs through late October or mid-November.

Oregonians climb throughout winter, when they can cherry-pick days.

Smith gets less precipitation than Bend. Even with snow on the ground, the sun warms up frontside south-facing cliffs.

Days with a little rain are climbable. Smith's welded tuff and basalt are often dry enough to climb five minutes after the sun comes out.

But be careful: After deluges, it's best not to climb for two days on welded tuff, whose rain-weakened small knobs and edges can break off. Don't destroy holds on climbs.

Follow sun and shade. If it's hot, climb early in the morning or try the west-facing, shaded backside until about 11 a.m.

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Photos by Suzanne Hurt, Special to The Oregonian/OregonLive

Quickdraws, which are used by lead climbers to clip into bolts on their way up the rock, hang from the harness of Eugene resident Bill Soule at Smith Rock State Park in September.

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INSIDER TIPS

It's OK to lower off anchors, but not to toprope directly from them. That wears them out.

The Monument Area usually closes late February through late June or July for golden eagle nesting.

The Zoo climbing area is accessed fastest from the back, off Gray Butte Trail via Skull Hollow Campground.

Skin can get dry and cracked in the desert. Small, crimpy climbs wear out fingertips. Give your hands TLC -- wash in olive oil soap after climbing and use hand lotion at night.

To climb harder, carry a small bottle of rubbing alcohol to get grease – plus water-resistant residue from ropes and aluminum oxide from carabiners -- off fingers and hands before climbing. Apply, then wipe hands on a rag.

Technical climbing relies on footwork. Clean dust and grit off your shoes before you climb.

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Photos by Suzanne Hurt, Special to The Oregonian/OregonLive

Bill Soule of Eugene puts on climbing shoes in the Upper Gorge Bouldering Area adjacent to Smith Rock State Park.

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AVOIDING PROBLEMS

Carpool to reduce parking problems. Parking along Wilcox Street may currently be legal, but it creates hassles for neighbors. Park officials hope to create a shuttle system to eliminate parking on Wilcox.

Busiest times are 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Parking spots often open before or after that.

Locals climb on weekdays to avoid tourists.

To escape crowds, go farther. There are plenty of climbs on the Smith Rock Group and backside, and new climbs in the Marsupials, the Monument Area and the Zoo.

The park is next to a rural residential area. Don't hassle the farm animals.

Dogs must be leashed in the park.

Sources: Mike Volk, Bill Soule, Ian Caldwell, Alan Watts and Eric Bostard.

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Photos by Suzanne Hurt, Special to The Oregonian/OregonLive

Toby, a golden retriever, is one of the crag dogs at Smith Rock State Park. All dogs must be on leashes at all times in the park.

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IF YOU GO

Smith Rock State Park: 9025 N.E. Crooked River Drive, Terrebonne, OR

Fees/permits:

Day use parking permits, $5 a day, or

, $30. A park camping receipt works as a daily permit.

Park Office:

541-548-7501 or

.

PARKING

Carpool and avoid parking on Wilcox Street, which creates hassles for neighbors.

There are 475 parking spots in the park. To get one, especially on busy weekends, come before 10 a.m. or after 3 p.m. Park officials hope to create a shuttle system to eliminate parking on Wilcox.

WHERE TO STAY

Options range from tent camping and RV parks to short-term rentals in Terrebonne and motels in Redmond.

Showers Only

$2 at bivouac area.

WHERE TO EAT

Stop for a bite in Terrebonne or Redmond; both are a short drive from the park.



GUIDE SERVICES

Take your climbing up a notch with professional guides who know the park and its routes.

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