No beer brings to mind the concept of ‘sugar plum fairies’ so much as the Belgian Strong Dark Ale, which typically has a spicy yeast character that accompanies its winter-appropriate high alcohol content. A good pair with a holiday feast or simply a cold night by the fireplace.

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‘TROIS PISTOLES’ – UNIBROUE – Belgian Strong Dark Ale – 9.00% ABV (Eye Choir’s Choice)

Appearance: Poured a dark ruby-brown with violet highlights and a one-finger, light tan head. The body is only slightly translucent, though holding it up to the light reveals a moderate carbonation. 4.5/5

Smell: A very potent and distinct yeast aroma hits the nose first, which is equal parts chalky and phenolic, also incorporating coriander and a variety of dark fruits such as raisins, strawberries, and black currants. The malt character is more mild, but traces of roasty bittersweet chocolate can be detected. A faint herbal hop aroma blends in with the medicinal aspect of the yeast. Very unique for the style but well thought-out and balanced. 4.5/5

Taste: Moderate tartness highlights black cherry and plum flavors, with faint lighter fruits like orange peel and banana filling in the cracks. The earthy yeast character helps ground these potent dark fruits, with notes of clove and coriander providing further details. A mild to moderate sweetness gradually brings out candi sugar, molasses, and cocoa flavors a bit as well. A mild bitterness helps a fresh (almost wintergreen) grassy hop character rise to meet the slightly boozy fruits. Very diverse but still preserves a certain cohesiveness. 4.5/5

Mouthfeel: Medium body, with a syrupy, yet smooth, though not creamy, mouthfeel which complements the rich jammy fruit and spices quite well. There is a little alcoholic heat but only just enough to remind of the heavy heritage of the style. Straightforward but fitting. 4/5

Overall: Striking out on its own interpretation of the Belgian strong dark ale style, this drink finds a new aesthetic which features bold spices and a wide fruit palate while keeping the malts in a supporting role. Highly detailed with nice balance. 4.5/5

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‘BLACK’ – ALLAGASH – Belgian Strong Dark Ale – 7.50% ABV

Appearance: Poured an intensely dark reddish brown with a one-finger, light beige head. No carbonation or sediment can be easily visible in the impenetrably dark body. 3.5/5

Smell: Roasted baker’s chocolate and caramel malts predominate, with a smoky, almost charred flavor that is supported by some fruity yeast flavors which display black cherry and candied date aromas. Hops are hidden in the background, with a mere slight earthiness blending with the rest of the bouquet. Actually fairly simple for a style which can be quite complex, though the pairing of ingredients is certainly unique and well-defined. 3.5/5

Taste: A mild to moderate sweetness evokes coffee and cocoa as well a slightly boozy dark fruit palate, while some mild tartness brings out subtle medicinal notes from the yeast. The mild to moderately bitter finish really accentuates the acrid burnt bread malt flavors as well as some dark hop leaf flavors that go well with the yeast character. Interesting but seems a little slapdash and unbalanced, especially considering the strength of the roasted malt. 3/5

Mouthfeel: Medium to light body, with a distinct alcoholic heat that is interesting for what is otherwise a lighter-bodied beer. Quite smooth with only a touch of carbonation that enhances the acidic fruits, and still manages to be compatible with the intense malt flavors. 3.5/5

Overall: The ‘Belgian stout’ is a very strange and unique concept, especially when the malts are taken to such extremes. However, this beer in particular lacks the subtlety and complexity that one would expect, though some of the odd pairings are enjoyable. 3.5/5

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‘GREGORIUS’ – STIFT ENGELSZELL – Belgian Strong Dark Ale brewed with honey – 9.70% ABV

Appearance: Poured a dark reddish-brown with ruby to violet highlights and a two-finger, medium tan head. The body is too dark to see any significant carbonation, though a fair amount of particulate sediment can be seen in the bottom of the glass. 4/5

Smell: Leathery yeast funk aroma up front, couched in a slight peppery phenolic character. Strong fruit notes are also present, with boozy plum and jammy strawberry that have a slight port wine feel to them. Mild sugary roasted malt serves as a background aroma which incorporates some honey (though not floral) notes as well. Manages to be interesting without being particularly unusual. 4/5

Taste: Moderate to strong sweetness brings the honey out quite a bit, over the still-mild molasses malt notes, and creates an alcoholic, almost mead-like flavor. Mild to moderate mid-palate tartness goes alongside the fruity yeast and even brings out a little wet hay that serves as interesting contrast to the dark flavors. Mild bitterness in the finish slides under a raw booze and sharply earthy burnt sugar. A nice intense punch, but could use a little more balance and a more refined malt presence. 3.5/5

Mouthfeel: Medium body, with quite the hot mouthfeel that can be felt all the way into the stomach, though it isn’t particularly harsh. Mild carbonation only intensifies this, though a bit of initial slipperiness in the mouthfeel helps smooths things out. Appropriate for the alcoholic flavor profile but still on the strong side. 3.5/5

Overall: Some not-quite-conventional flavors see an interesting depth here, though the dual alcohol and yeast flavors tend to overpower some of the other subtleties. Not bad to sip on though. 3.5/5

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‘RAISON D’ÊTRE’ – DOGFISH HEAD – Belgian Strong Dark Ale brewed with beet sugar and raisins – 8.00% ABV

Appearance: Poured a slightly dark orange brown with ruby highlights and a one-finger, moderate beige head. Surprisingly quite clear, which shows off a moderate to strong amount of carbonation. 4/5

Smell: Malt character is toasty with traces of carob and molasses, as well as a distinct burnt sugar quality. Dark fruits such as cherry and (unsurprisingly) raisin, along with a distinct strain of dusty bubblegum add a depth of flavor, while a mildly spicy Belgian yeast with a restrained earthy funk shows contrast. Spices and fruit work well together here, but though the aromas are fairly unique, they are strangely subdued. 3.5/5

Taste: Mild to moderate tartness really highlights the grape, leading to a light Pinot Noir note that synergizes with the oddly ‘clean’ yeast flavors. Mild bitterness further highlights this combination, with a suggestion of tannic astringency and bringing out a touch of herbal hops. Sweetness is mild, but lasts through the finish with a complementary booze note that puts a neat spin on the candy caramel. Unexpectedly unique, with a strong, clear structure nonetheless. 4.5/5

Mouthfeel: Medium body, with a distinctly syrupy, almost sticky quality that mirrors the slightly boozy fruit and vague molasses notes. Carbonation has a slight crispness that further highlights the acidic raisins, thought the finish is still smooth with a very mild alcoholic heat. 4/5

Overall: A successful integration of raisins into the Belgian strong dark ale format, with a slightly subdued yeast character and a well-arranged flavor profile leaving plenty of room to pick out the subtleties in the fruit. 4/5