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Acid Man !Yt19IvCP0E 13/03/19(Tue)20:02 No. 3272

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>The Acid Man Detonator



You'll note that when I intend to show you something neat, I tend to build the pieces of it up for you first. I showed you how to make nitroglycerine, nitrocellulose, and mononitrotoluene first, and then how it could be used for Nobel 808, as one example.



Well we just covered three others: Picric acid, lead picrate, and ammonium picrate. So guess what? Yes, these are the three ingredients in my detonator. You will need to prepare them in the following amounts:



>THREE grams of Lead Picrate will serve as the primary.

>TWO grams of phlegmatized Picric Acid will serve as the secondary.

>ONE gram of Ammonium Picrate will serve as the built-in booster.



To use in this detonator, you should phlegmatize (de-sensitize and bind) the Picric Acid crystals a bit. This is done by melting together one part by weight paraffin wax and 3 parts petroleum jelly in a beaker on a war hotplate. To this add 9 parts of Picric Acid crystals and gently knead them together for fifteen minutes until they become a thick, sticky mass. Allow it to cool, then measure out TWO GRAMS for use in the detonator.



Ragnar had the right idea using thin aluminum tubing, but I like a bit bigger critical diameter than he does. Source yourself some aluminum tubing from a hobby shop. I like mine to be 5/16" diameter, but 1/4" can work. Carefully cut the tubing into 4" lengths with a fine hacksaw. Why so long, compared to that pretty picture of short blasting caps from the post above? We have to take into account the HUMAN FACTOR. At some point you're probably going to fuck this up - and the more distance between your hand and the explosive train packed into the bottom of the tube, the better.



The next step is to coat the tube, inside and out, with an acid resistant material. Pour a tall graduated cylinder full of clear lacquer, and dip the ENTIRE aluminum tube into it, clear down to the bottom of the cylinder. Remove it carefully, let it dry and apply a second coat the same way - this coats the tube inside and out, protecting from contact with the Picric Acid. While the second coat is still wet, use the very edge of a set of flat-nosed pliers to crimp the bottom of the tube tightly shut. Crimp it as close to the end as possible, and make sure it forms a tight, straight seam. Dip the whole outside end of the tube in clear lacquer and let dry to ensure a good external seal, then put a few small drops of lacquer down into the bottom of the tube with an eyedropper to seal it internally. This end will be the bottom of the tube, and will contain the explosive train.



Next you will need the following:



Silicone caulk.

A 2 foot length of cannon fuse.

A quarter gram of any smokeless gunpowder.

A pair of crimping pliers.

A cotton ball.

The Blasting Cap Press



>The Blasting Cap Press



This is not an optional piece of equipment. For a good detonator, the explosives within have to be pressed to very high density. SQUASHING a sensitive primary explosive while praying it decides not to go off, is NOT something one does with bare hands!



A good design for the press is illustrated here:



http://www.operatorchan.org/z/src/improvised_munitions_handbook_v3.pdf



See page 232 of 273. It's nothing but a long 2X4 fixed to a hinge, with a wooden blast shield and a holder for the detonator and a tamping peg. Take your time, put your internet porn away, and go build it. If you try this without one, you're retarded or worse. And you WILL die.



The explosives are deposited into the detonator tube in layers. You'll add half of each explosive, press, and then add the other half and press again before moving on to the next explosive.



>Start with one gram of Ammonium Picrate



Add half a gram of the ammonium picrate to the tube, trickling it in and very gently tapping the side of the tube to make it settle to the bottom. Insert the tamping rod, get back behind the blast shield, and gently, slowly, pull down on the end of the 2X4 until you have all your weight on it. Hold there for five seconds. CAREFULLY, SLOWLY, take your weight off the 2X4 and gently lift up, removing the tamping rod from the detonator body, being careful not to jiggle, scrape, or drop it roughly.



Add the remaining half gram of ammonium picrate to the detonator tube as before, and repeat the pressing.



>The second layer is two grams phlegmatized Picric Acid.



Divide the two grams of TNP you prepared earlier into equal halves. Add the first half to the the tube, gently prodding it in with a plastic knife or similar. Set the tamping rod, and very, VERY gently press it into place using all your body weight as you did for the ammonium picrate. Withdraw the tamp, add the second half of the picric acid, and repeat.



>The final layer is three grams of lead picrate.



This is the most dangerous step. You're going to add this one in THIRDS, pressing at each step. Be ESPECIALLY CAREFUL not to jostle the press as you're putting your weight on it or taking it off. Press slowly, gently, and evenly. Watch out for the tamping rod itself after each pressing - it will have explosive residue from the lead picrate on it, and CAN blow you up!



>Finishing and arming



The final step is to add the initiator - the fuse assembly. On top of the layer of Lead Picrate, gently add just a pinch of any commercial smokeless gunpowder. This is to give the end of the fuse a little extra "oomph!" to make sure everything goes to plan. That would be a lot of work to waste on a fizzle, right? Don't tamp the gunpowder - leave it loose.



Once the gunpowder is added, gently place the fuse all the way down inside, and make sure it is embedded in the gunpowder and approximately touching the lead picrate near the inside wall of the detonator casing. Insert a piece of the cotton ball into the end of the detonator tube next to the fuse - just enough for a snug fit, and use a wooden dowel to gently press it down into the tube. Don't tamp it hard, just press. It is only there to retain the fuse. The final step is to put a moderate glob of silicone caulk down the tube, and likewise press it into the bottom gently with a wooden dowel.



Set the detonator aside in a cool, dry place so that the silicone can dry for a day. As it dries, it will swell up in the tube and seal the assembly together perfectly. The detonator is now finished.



The burning fuse will flash-ignite the gunpowder, ensuring a hefty spark to ignite the lead picrate. Lead picrate explodes from flame with just enough power that three grams of it can reliably "high order" detonate a small amount of Picric Acid. The Picric Acid, in turn, has just enough explosive power that two grams of it can reliably detonate ammonium picrate. And as we can see by its high detonation velocity of 7150m/s, ammonium picrate releases a lot of energy when it detonates - enough to set off just about any other explosive you please!

