The restaurant doesn’t do a huge dinner trade, but at lunch, it’s much busier.

I went back over the noon hour to give the brisket another shot earlier in the day, and this time, it was much tastier, more tender and juicy than it was the first time. On this visit, I tried the brisket on a sandwich, and it comes with plenty of spicy sauce on a toasted bun. Though I liked the sauce, the pieces I tried without it were still downright excellent, good enough to stand on their own.

I also tried the special that day, the smoked burger, which was indeed smoky and also spicy, topped with cheddar cheese and some crunchy jalapeños. I ordered it medium rare, but it was a touch past pink; nonetheless, its flavor made up for it.

Chip Holland said the restaurant uses a blend of steak, including ribeye and sirloin. The burgers get touched with a hint of smoke and are finished on the grill.

That day, I also tried the potato salad, which was a great version of the summertime picnic classic, just sweet, creamy and with plenty of seasoning.

I’ve heard that the restaurant regularly does burnt ends as a special, and though I’d have loved to try them, they weren’t available during my visits. I’ll go back for them, though.