Fitzick is a former Mack & Manco's sauce hose jockey who saw the artisan-pizza light in the 850-degree heat of Valentina's wood-fired oven (not to mention its Neapolitan sous and pastry chef Maura Prisco Fitzick, whom he married). And he has been refining his dough over the last year, honing in on his preferred Italian flour (Molino Dallagiovanna), pushing the fermentation to a two-day cold proof for maximum complexity, and, of course, refining the toppings.