Yosuke Suga’s tiny Tokyo restaurant Sugalabo, which has only 20 tables, does not have a Michelin star but shares the top spot on the French-based list alongside the reigning leaders, Guy Savoy in Paris and New York’s Le Bernardin under Eric Ripert.

The famously innovative Ryugin restaurant in the Japanese capital run by chef Seiji Yamamoto jumped 30 places to also reach the shared number one spot.

A delighted Yamamoto, known as the “king of kaiseki” — the traditional multi-course Japanese meal — told AFP that he now knows what the mysterious invitation he received to come to Paris next month was for.

“I’m honoured. When I opened my own restaurant I was 33 and was told I was young and green.