There are grilled cheeses far and wide, for good reason. Many of them are good. Some, great. For April, Grilled Cheese Month, we'll be trying grilled cheeses from all over, and dispensing a little wisdom along the way.

Pop's Swiss Melt ($6.50)

Pop's Ice Cream, 1916 Memorial Ave., Roanoke, VA

Dairy haven Pop's in southwest Virginia labels itself as an ice cream and soda bar, which is a damn shame. Peel away the poodle skirt-era malts and root beer floats to discover Pop's real treasure: grilled cheeses stuffed with apple slices, figs, black beans, and other deviants. Pop's Swiss Melt — a fusion of artichoke hearts, Swiss cheese, Dijon mustard, and horseradish — is a zesty antonym to Ma's standard cheddar. Powerful horseradish delivers a swift kick to the sinuses before surrendering to buttery avocado. When Pop has to fire up his 1958 Toastmaster Sandwich Press, it better be worth it. Avocado is always worth it.

Cheese: 9 out of 10

Texture: 8 out of 10

Originality: 10 out of 10

Intangible Grilled-Cheese Essence: 7 out of 10

Final Score: 34 out of 40

More Grilled Cheese Month on Eat Like a Man >>

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