In wake of Anthony Bourdain suicide, Asheville chefs discuss perils of industry

Mackensy Lunsford | The Citizen-Times

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ASHEVILLE — The news of the suicide of prominent chef-turned-writer and travel journalist Anthony Bourdain tore through the culinary community Friday.

Bourdain's life influenced countless writers and chefs, many of whom faced the hard issues that surfaced in the wake of his death: thoughts of suicide can happen to anyone, regardless of status.

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Katie Button, chef of Cúrate and Nightbell, said depression and substance abuse in the restaurant industry were the sorts of topics from which Bourdain rarely shied.

"He was definitely someone very vocal about the issues in the (restaurant) industry," she said. "It was something he brought up frequently, and continued to do so."

In 2011, Button welcomed Bourdain to her restaurant for a meet-and-greet. She said his sometimes gruff exterior belied his genuine warmth and kindness. Bourdain later introduced himself to each of her line cooks, taking the time to shake each hand.

"I've never been in another scenario where someone came back to do that," she said. "It shows how much he cared for people working in industry."

That appreciation seemed to be reciprocal, and Button planned to address the issue of Bourdain's death with her staff.

Data from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention show that suicide death rates have risen significantly since the late 1990s among all professions, with 25 states recording increases of more than 30 percent. The rates rose in men and women and across all age and ethnic groups, propelled by mental illness, substance-use disorders, financial hardship and relationship problems.

Those very issues can all be exacerbated by work in the restaurant business, where hours are long and substance abuse is common.

William Dissen, chef of The Market Place in Asheville, said many people attracted to the industry may already come with a set of anxieties in place.

"I think a lot of folks find jobs cooking because they're looking for a place to find work and be creative, but you can do it without necessarily having to interact with a lot of people," he said.

A busy dinner service can provide a sort of cadence, wave upon wave of conquerable problems to solve in the moment, a respite from anxiety.

"A lot of people find that to be their happy place," he said. "A lot of those same folks wouldn't want to work as a bartender, or as a server. The back of the house offers a sort of zen."

But when the diners leave and the restaurant goes dark, that's when the trouble can start.

"When you get off work at 5 p.m., there's a lot of places open: restaurants, grocery stores, churches. You get off work at midnight, and there's only one place that's open, and it's definitely not church."

Dissen said his staff jokes about "Dissen's three Ds," or the guidelines that he gives new hires: no drinking, no drugs, no drama.

"With our companies, we're working to create a sustainable brand through good food, sustainable agriculture, sustainable seafood, and being a vibrant part of the community. But how can I call myself sustainable if there's not a sustainability to my staff? If we're not able to provide a safe environment for them, how is that walking the walk?"

Depression would likely be a topic of conversations in many kitchens Friday as line cooks arrived for dinner service.

Button, who already offers counseling as a benefit for employees, said the restaurant industry can be particularly hard on its workers.

"It can be lonely, that life of working opposite of the rest of the world," she said. "You're taking care of everyone, while they're out having fun. (Restaurant people) are working on holidays and weekends, when most people get to be out enjoying their time."

Button focuses on creating a healthy environment for staff members.

She warns new employees that her restaurants, though family owned, are very structured, professional places, devoid of the pirate ship lifestyle Bourdain wrote about in "Kitchen Confidential."

But life happens to anyone, under any set of preventative measures.

That's why she opens the counseling benefits to not only her staff members, but anyone who lives with them.

Under the program, employees and their partners, family members or even roommates, can attend five counseling sessions on any topic per year, from financial worries to depression to relationship dissolution.

"The goal is to evaluate where they are with life, what care fits with their budget and connect them with the right resources if they happen to need long-term help."

She said those who take their own lives should not be blamed for not getting the help they need.

Button, whose cousin died in the same manner, said it's hard to know how common such incomprehensible pain can be.

"To me, it's shocking how many people don't get the help they need in that area, and we should all work really hard to change that — it's never felt more important than right now.

"It's extremely common and nothing to be ashamed of," she continued. "Get help. Talk to somebody. Let people know."

If you are having thoughts of suicide, call the National Suicide Prevention Lifeline at 1-800-273-8255.