It's 8 o'clock on Saturday night and you're waiting for your table at the place to be. You sip a bacon-infused bourbon old fashioned, while nibbling on pancetta-wrapped figs. Once seated, you waver between the braised pork belly or the Allan Benton-bacon wrapped trout, served with Brussels spouts roasted with cured fatback. You'll need to save room for the bacon-banana ice cream. And, don't forget, you'll be meeting a friend for bacon-maple doughnuts tomorrow morning.

It's lip smacking and finger licking, fatty and salty,...