I enjoyed the Imperial-sized martinis and Ben loved the endless nibbles, but the best feature was the amazing 180-degree view across the whole of Rome. It is the highest lounge view in the city, taking in St Peter's and the Vatican to the south and Rome's hilltop observatory to the north. In between, the low-rise splendour of the capital stretches out like an architectural model all the way to the Alban hills in the east. Never mind gladiators; on our first evening we felt like gods as we surveyed a miniature city illuminated by the flashes of a perfectly timed thunderstorm.