Photos by Jiraporn Kuhakan

Obsessed by all forms of martial art, Suranun “Tong” Chumtaratorn, 39, has always been enthusiastic about learning new fighting techniques. Swaying left and right, moving forward, turning upside down. Tong was fascinated by the intricate but unfamiliar moves he saw on film while studying in New Zealand in 1997.

He had no idea what he was watching, but it looked cool. It was like a fight, a dance and a game, all at once.

That mystery martial art was capoeira.

The film was Only the Strong, the first Hollywood movie to showcase the Afro-Brazilian martial art from start to finish.

Tong was immediately inspired. His first mission was to find out where he could learn the art form. Luckily, he was living in Auckland, where there are several capoeira groups.

At the time Tong was also studying ninjutsu, taekwondo, karate and Thai boxing. He started learning capoeira once a week and would practise after school, by himself or with a group of friends.

It didn’t take long for Tong to fall madly in love with capoeira. He soon abandoned learning his other martial arts, apart from taekwondo, since he had already earned a black belt in that discipline. Wherever he saw people practising capoeira, he would spontaneously join in.

BRINGING IT HOME

Tong returned to Thailand to continue his education and joined the taekwondo club at his university, where he assisted the coaches, helping others with their posture and technique.

But he quickly became bored, and realised he was missing his life back in Auckland. He tried to work out what was wrong, and it dawned on him. There was no capoeira in Thailand.

Capoeira dates back 500 years to the start of Brazil’s slave trade, which brought a mix of African cultures to the country. As the slaves were freed over the years, a new Afro-Brazilian identity was born, and with it the development of capoeira, which became known as “the art of liberation”.

Traditionally set to a rhythmic beat played out by a small band of musicians, capoeira can be described as a physical “conversation” made up of flowing and acrobatic movements. In each conversation, two capoeiristas exchange circular and straight kicks, sweeps, takedowns and gymnastic moves.

Tong introduced the exotic art form to a few of his friends at taekwondo. They seemed to like it too, and Tong was more than happy to help cultivate their interest.

“At that point, I told myself that I could give up anything, but not capoeira,” Tong said. “If there is such thing as a next life, I want to be reborn to do capoeira again.”

He and two friends started using the outdoors space beneath one of the buildings on their university campus to practise capoeira. There were only three of them, but Tong was happy to have his passion back in his life again.

Capoeira has transformed from an underground and outlawed martial art, practised by the most disenfranchised >>

>> in Brazilian society, to the artistic representation of the country’s culture. The discipline is also supposed to improve the mental well-being of its devotees, and Tong credits it with helping develop his confidence and self-esteem.

“Many people ask me if capoeira is a martial art or a kind of dance form. I tell them it is a culture, a unique mixture of music, martial arts, dance and acrobatics.”

The three-man capoeira group was not registered as an official university club when it first started out. But the beauty of the art form attracted other students and they started to get a following on social media. In no time at all, the group had 30 members. Tong ran it for two years before he graduated.

DOING IT FOR LOVE

Dance dialogue: The art of capoeira is sometimes described as a kind of physical ‘conversation’ made of flowing, acrobatic moves.

When Tong left university, his capoeira club there dissolved. He decided to set up a new group for Thai capoeiristas, which came together to practise every weekend at Santichaiprakarn Park near Khao San Road. It was a not-for-profit enterprise, just meant for enthusiasts of the art.

As the most experienced practitioner among them, Tong took on the role of teaching newbies. Aside from the lessons he took in New Zealand, he has never studied the art form with a senior master, but learned everything he knows through watching videos and online content.

“I practise in front of the mirror to make sure that I do things right,” Tong explained. “I already had a lot of knowledge of martial arts, so adjusting to capoeira was only a matter of time.”

The group met at the park for several years, turning many of its attendants into devoted capoeira lovers and firm friends.

Sadly it disbanded when members of the group grew older. Some got married and some went to study abroad.

Tong tried to keep the group together by bringing in an instructor to teach the remaining members once every six months. But the plan didn’t work out, since Tong was doing it for love, while the majority of instructors demanded high fees.

Some members of his group also wanted to turn capoeira into a commercial venture, and split off to open schools by themselves. But Tong was determined to provide the martial art through a non-profit group.

ON THE WORLD STAGE

After 10 years of practice, Tong and his remaining crew landed the chance to visit an annual international capoeira event, or “Batizado”, in Malaysia.

The gathering brings together capoeira lovers from across the region to practise together for a week of masterclasses, networking sessions and teacher training examinations. Of the Thais in attendance, Tong passed the highest level for capoeira instructors.

It was an eye-opener for the group, since they were exposed to the global capoeira community and saw how each country had its own style and technique.

Observers who watched the Thai team perform commented on how each member had a unique way of moving.

Tong explained they had all developed their own quirks, since they were self-trained. Practitioners from other countries were impressed and said the Thai group seemed to share a special familial bond that marked them out as different.

After the event, Tong and his group decided to join a team they had met in Malaysia, known as Movimento Simples de Capoeira, or “simple movement”.

“I joined them because they are as passionate as we are about capoeira,” Tong said.

The group has now been established for more than 17 years. Tong said he is closer to members of the team than he is to his own family. No matter how far apart they are, the members will always find ways to meet up, whether to practise or not.

Tong continually tries to promote capoeira, but said it is difficult because Thai youngsters tend to follow trends.

Korean dancing and taekwondo are popular because of the influence of Korean pop stars, he said, but capoeira lacks the same pull.

The other issue is that there are no capoeira competitions in Thailand, because it is not recognised as a sport.

“If you think you might enjoy it, just come and see us at work. No previous skills are required,” Tong said. “There are no age or gender limitations for this type of martial art. Anyone who is interested in capoeira can just come and join us.”

WE ARE FAMILY

The Thai branch of Movimento Simples de Capoeira is one of five, with others in Brazil, Malaysia, China and Japan. It attracts a wide range of different people, and many members go on to become instructors or assistants.

Among the Thai members of the group, there are two men who drive two hours from Ratchaburi province to Bangkok once a week, just to practise capoeira. Thanat “Pru” Apichonpongsakorn, 29, and Sarun “Kho” Khowarsuwonnar, 29, are happy to make the long journey.

Kho used to be a member of a boxing camp and had always been a fan of martial arts. He came across capoeira when he was in high school, and was interested in trying it. But he was never able to pursue that ambition since it wasn’t being taught anywhere near him at the time. Several years later, a friend told him about a group that practised the art form in Bangkok.

“I used to spend my weekends just laying in front of the TV at home, but now my life has more purpose,” Kho said.

Pru on the other hand has always sought out opportunities to challenge his body with new activities. He found capoeira through a friend who thought he would like it.

“My body strength has really improved. I am much stronger now than when I started,” Pru said. “The thing that keeps me coming back is that it feels like hanging out with friends or family, rather than being taught something. It’s got me hooked.”