Words by Christopher Kevin Au

There’s been a huge rise in the popularity of combat sports over the past few years. The mainstream embrace of these battles has brought reality television, crowded press conferences, overpriced merchandise and celebrity ringside seats into the fold – and at times, this has overshadowed the dedication and discipline required to participate in such contests.

Sydney photographer and artist Kansas Smeaton traveled to Isaan, a rural village in Thailand to document Muay Thai in its rawest form at Wor.Watthana gym. Outside of the ring, the trip proved to be an eye-opening cultural experience far removed from the harmony of the Western world. The images have been collated for her exhibition titled Isaan; The Heart of Muay Thai which is displaying on September 28 at Goodspace Gallery in Chippendale.

Ahead of the show, we spoke to Kansas about her motivations to head to Isaan and fascination with the sport. Read what she had to say below, and head to Goodspace tomorrow night:

A lot of people traveling to South East Asia go there for the cheap benders and Bintang merchandise. What drew you to Isaan and how did you end up there?

My fascination with Muay Thai all started when I first photographed a friends’ fight in Sydney. His dedication to and knowledge of the martial art really inspired me to find out more about its origins and history. Shortly after I traveled to Phuket with the same friend, and while he trained at some of the big name gyms there, I took photos. The time I spent in Phuket was an amazing introduction to Muay Thai in Thailand but I felt that the Phuket experience had been highly Westernised and that there must be something more authentic.

After talking to many of the trainers at various gyms, the reoccurring thing I found was that most of the fighters there were all from rural villages. Villages in Isaan. So I decided that if I really wanted to explore the heart, soul and roots of this traditional art then I’d have to go to Isaan.

You’ve highlighted some the problematic issues plaguing rural Thailand. What did you see first hand and what are some of the things that the Western world is oblivious to?

The biggest thing that I noticed was that in rural Isaan the job prospects are few to none. Most people able to work have to relocate high tourism areas to try to find a job and send the little money that they do earn home to their families. As a result I was seeing a lot of children left under the care of older people such as their grandparents or elderly neighbours in the village.

So here we have groups of children from very young ages through to their late teens being looked after by 70/80 year olds who just don’t have the energy to properly monitor and provide the adequate boundaries groups of children require. In turn,these parent-less kids roam around in gangs with not much else to do other than engage in crime, binge drinking and drug taking. The Western world generally sees Thailand through the eyes of the tourist and I think that perhaps the majority of visitors don’t really consider the negative impact that tourism has had on the country as a whole.

How did you become involved with Wor.Watthana?



My involvement with Wor.Watthana just came about through research. I had stumbled across a blog online to which Frances Watthanaya ,the woman behind Wor.Watthana gym, had contributed. I found her email address via her website, sent her an email to say I’d love to visit them, and then two months later I was taking the six hour bus journey from Bangkok to Putthaisong, the village where they are based. I have always held a great respect for combat sports but over the years, as my involvement with Muay Thai has grown, it really has solidified a place in my heart.

Can you explain in greater detail how Muay Thai helped act as an escape for the kids in Isaan?

Before Frances and Boom opened the gym there was very little for the local kids to do recreationally. A lot of older teenagers were already involved with gangs and substance abuse and there wasn’t much else in terms of role models. Muay Thai offers a refuge from the negative influences that village life can have. It promotes a healthy life (mind and body) and encourages self belief and drive.

The very essence of Muay Thai is based around the idea of respect and discipline so by being a student of this sport one is also inherently being taught these lessons. The kids also spend a lot of time playing around the gym even when they aren’t required to train. It has become a space where everyone is welcome, whether they are directly involved with fighting or not, a space where people are exposed to people achieving things and a space that is positive and safe.

What would be a regular day for kids at the gym? Were you surprised by their discipline?

All the kids are required to go to school, Frances and Boom get pretty disappointed when they don’t, so training starts every day around four in the afternoon. They start with a run and then they move to either hitting pads or working the boxing bag. Some kids do more work than others, but it all depends on who has a fight coming up and their age. Frances and Boom then drop all the kids back to their homes. I wasn’t particularly shocked with their discipline but I was very inspired by their heart and determination.

Are there any particular people or stories from your trip that have stuck with you?

Everyone I worked with in Thailand has become pretty special to me. One particular positive experience I had was when I drove from the village to the city of Pattaya with a few of the kids for a big fight at Max Muay Thai. We stopped by the beach before the fight and the kids had never seen the ocean before. It was all extremely heart warming to watch their excitement but what resonated with me the most was this opportunity for them to travel and experience new things, all thanks to Muay Thai and the gym. The ease of travel is something that we definitely take for granted here in the West.

When did you decide to document your experiences on camera?

I started this project about a year and a half ago and I have been shooting fights ever since.

You’re also quite skilled with painting. How do you think photography has influenced your approach to painting or vice versa?

Light and form are a sort of universal language in the visual arts. Photography has definitely helped me with my treatment of light in my paintings and aids in things as simple as just noticing the different tones in a subject. It also helps a lot with composition and deciding what feels natural.

How are the funds from your exhibition going back to helping Isaan locals?

All the funds raised are going towards school supplies, the running costs of local gyms, new gym equipment, and the basic needs of the young fighters – clothes, adequate nutrition and clean drinking water. All projects that are funded also help to create jobs for the village locals.

What’s on the cards for Kansas for the rest of 2016?

Well, I graduate in two months and then I’m moving to a new studio above The Lady Hampshire in Camperdown – so basically I’ll just be smashing out the paintings!