I meet Gormley, a confirmed house-swapper (“Haven’t you tried it? I’ve done home exchanges in Slovenia, Mexico, the US”) at the London club he uses for meetings and try not to blame him when reception makes me sign in on an iPad. The deal with wine angels is that you pay in £20 each month towards the next order and in return “get better wine for supporting winemakers directly” (I disagree with this on the grounds that their access to wine is no greater than that of a non-wine angel, and I wasn’t wowed by the 12 samples I tried); earn 33 per cent cashback every time they buy (this turns out not to be quite true either); and receive free samples and invitations to tastings.