

Take the buckle from your donor belt and slide it in place. Double check the orientation, you don't want to glue up your belt and find the buckle is reversed.



Decide how far you want the belt to be doubled over. The belt is not flexible at all when it is doubled, so don't go too far, I only went about three inches on mine. Once you have determined the section that is going to be doubled over, rough up both surfaces that will be touching with a Dremel grinding bit to promote epoxy adhesion.



Use the sewing awl to sew as close as possible to the buckle while still allowing it to move freely. I made sure to practice with the sewing awl on scrap material so I was comfortable using it before cutting loose on my timing belt. I used a clamp to hold the belt together close to where I was sewing. I finished the stitch line with a square knot secured by a dab of super glue.



Now is your last chance to check everything before applying epoxy. Double check the orientation of the buckle and the location and fit of your tab holder (if you used one). Be careful applying epoxy close to the buckle, you don't want excess squeezed into the buckle when you clamp everything tight. I don't have a bench vise so I used a couple scraps of wood to extend the clamping force the length of the epoxied area. I covered the wood scraps in aluminum foil so that excess epoxy wouldn't glue the wood to my belt. I made sure everything was ready and all my tools were handy before mixing the epoxy. Once I mixed up the epoxy I carefully applied it to the folded over belt area and then clamped everything tight. Be ready to clean up any excess epoxy that squeezes out the sides. Even though I used 5 minute epoxy, I let it cure until the next day.





