Two years ago, Victorian pastry chef William Jane was baking just 12 loaves of bread a day.

Key points: Consumption of artisanal varieties of bread is on the rise in Australia, accounting for 14.7 per cent of the bread and bakery items consumers buy

Consumption of artisanal varieties of bread is on the rise in Australia, accounting for 14.7 per cent of the bread and bakery items consumers buy Overall consumption of white, factory-made bread has decreased

Overall consumption of white, factory-made bread has decreased Health-conscious consumers are warned to do their research, with artisanal breads not always labelled with nutritional information

Now the owner of Warrnambool wholesale bakery Jane Dough produces up to 800 white and seeded sourdough loaves every week — along with extra baguettes, focaccias, and fruit and nut loaves to sell at nearby markets.

It has been a rapid rise for the boutique bakery, which opened in early 2017.

"We invested in a new oven in March this year, so that's increased our capacity to produce more [bread], which looking forward into the future, we will do," Mr Jane said.

"In wintertime, we can certainly take on more bread, but we've got to keep a cap on it coming into summer because when summer hits, the tourists are here [and] production goes through the roof."

Mr Jane is not the only baker to see a rise in demand for artisanal loaves.

Will Jane, owner of wholesale bakery Jane Dough, sees a future in artisanal loaves. ( Supplied: Phoebe Powell )

Artisanal bread on the up

According to a 2019 industry report by research firm IBISWorld, our taste in bread is changing.

Although white bread still accounts for 26.7 per cent of bread and baked goods sold in Australia, our consumption of bread overall — especially white, factory-made bread, has decreased.

More consumers have started to switch to artisanal varieties, which accounts for 14.7 per cent of the bread and bakery items we buy.

"As consumer taste trends continue to move away from traditional and processed foods, we've seen that bakeries have had a resurgence in terms of their sales because of [this] artisanal push," IBISWorld Senior Industry Analyst Nathan Cloutman said.

"More and more we're seeing people buy spelt breads, organic breads, gluten free bread … premium, speciality products."

Supermarkets are taking artisan bread seriously. In 2017, Coles installed 33 additional bakeries and hired approximately 390 additional bakers, according to IBISWorld. ( Supplied: Will Jane )

Jane Bowen, a research scientist and dietician with the CSIRO, said it was no surprise health-conscious consumers have begun to turn away from highly-processed breads, but stressed it was important to do your research.

"People are looking for higher quality products, and so their perception is that if it's got some sort of special ingredient or a special technique to making it, then it might be better for them," Dr Bowen said.

"That's not necessarily always the case."

Supermarkets move in

Artisanal breads have become even more accessible due to the major supermarkets getting in on the action.

According to IBISWorld, Coles and Woolworths now operate over 1,100 instore bakeries and have steadily expanded their own gourmet bread offerings.

"This is also putting pressure on local bakeries to follow suit, particularly if there is a major supermarket nearby, selling artisanal sourdough for as little as $2 a loaf," Mr Cloutman said.

Dr Bowen said the push by major supermarkets into bespoke breads has added benefits for consumers.

"The average bakery wouldn't be able to tell you the salt content of their bread," she said.

"The slight difference with supermarket-based breads is that because they have a nutrition information panel, you can find out a bit more about them."

Zeally Bay Sourdough owner Joel Farnan said organic, chemical-free produce was gaining momentum. ( Supplied: John Farnan )

Discerning tastes

The last few years have seen a renewed push by consumers for organic, sustainable and environmentally-friendly produce.

According to the latest Australian Organic Market Report, Australia's organic industry is worth $2.6 billion.

The second-generation owner of Torquay wholefood bakery, Zeally Bay Sourdough, Joel Farnan, said Australian consumers have finally become more discerning with our taste in bread as part of a larger trend towards fresh, organic products.

"Even with olive oils and organic food and vegetables, [consumers are] just reaching a no-compromise position with those things, so I think it's fair that bread has become part of that whole movement to better food," he said.

Mr Farnan said that with better improved practices, fresher produce and longer baking time, consumers could expect to pay more for their bread.