In my previous porter review, it was clear that big flavors and bold ideals can be just what a beer needs to achieve greatness. On the other hand, a lot of times it is the more subtle, well-balanced beers that prove their excellence. This is especially true with porters, whose heritage as a mild beer resonates in Samuel Smith Brewery’s reintroduction of the style, the authentic ‘Taddy Porter’.

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‘TADDY PORTER’ – SAMUEL SMITH – Brown Porter – 5.00% ABV (Eye Choir’s Choice)

Appearance: Poured a deep (almost black) opaque brown with a two finger, beige head. The body is far too dark to see any haziness or carbonation. 4.5/5

Smell: A well-balanced array of standard porter malt aromas including iced coffee and a velvety milk chocolate. These are supplemented by a mild, figgy dark fruit flavor which helps evoke dark chocolate as well. Some slight butterscotch notes and a touch of spicy and earthy hoppiness contrast the richness of the malt. Not overtly unconventional but varied and deep. 4/5

Taste: Begins with a mild sweetness coupled with an impressive acidity that together highlights the roasted quality of the malts. The chocolate malts take on a slightly nutty character which mixes well with the hops. Also, the moderate tartness brings out a bright minerality which amplifies the dry finish, where mild to moderate bitterness further touches on the hop notes. Very dynamic but still remains focused on a very elegant aesthetic 4.5/5

Mouthfeel: Medium body, with a velvety mouthfeel that has a suggestion of heavy cream. Moderate to low carbonation heightens the acidity of the first few sips, but soon fades into a smoother texture. There is no alcoholic heat in the way of the cool, creaminess. Great accompaniment to the rich malts and refreshing well-water qualities. 5/5

Overall: Exemplary porter, with a fantastic mouthfeel and a great balance of flavors, and even though they are very standard to the style, quite a bit of depth can be appreciated here. 4.5/5

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‘EDMUND FITZGERALD’ – GREAT LAKES – Robust Porter – 5.80% ABV

Appearance: Poured an almost completely opaque brown-black with a one finger, light mahogany head. No carbonation or sediment can be seen in the body at all. 4/5

Smell: Has a prominent and surprisingly complex malt aroma which features strong notes of caramel, bittersweet chocolate, and hazelnuts. There is also a background note of herbaceous hops that provides some balance, and at times suggests a hint of caramelized plums. Straightforward design, yet still reasonably detailed and powerful. 4/5

Taste: Starts somewhat dry with a moderate tartness that evokes smoky coffee and cream from the malt, which synergizes with the other caramelized sugar flavors. The tartness adds a slight citric component to the hops, which along with a moderate bitterness, ride into a dry, yet still malt-forward finish. Definitely adds a lot to the aromas without perverting their intentions, but doesn’t quite manage to have a particularly impressive impact. 3.5/5

Mouthfeel: Medium body with a fairly creamy and smooth mouthfeel that is offset by a moderate to strong carbonation, though this also helps to balance the dominant malt flavors. There is little to no alcoholic heat, despite the slightly over-average alcohol content. Fits the taste well enough. 3.5/5

Overall: Doesn’t attempt to be inventive, but nonetheless, this beer displays some really complex and fascinating malt aromas that are supported by a good balance of hops and acidity that isn’t always found in a porter. 3.5/5

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‘ANCHOR PORTER’ – ANCHOR – Robust Porter – 5.60% ABV

Appearance: Poured a nearly black, orange-brown with a two finger, light brown head. No carbonation or sediment can be seen. 4/5

Smell: Malt character is complex, but not overpowering. It features carob, walnut, and blackstrap molasses flavors that have a very dark character. Hints of raisin or fig eventually come out as well, lending themselves to a very heady overall aroma. A subtle leafy hop character with a dash of cooking spices provides a fresh little bit of contrast. 4/5

Taste: Initial mild to moderate sweetness plays up the molasses malt character, though a moderate tartness adds to the perception of a toasted, almost burnt nut character that goes well with the rustic dried fruit. These flavors have a very concentrated potency that is an excellent contrast with the finish, which cleans the palate with a mild to moderate bitterness and an herbal woodsy hop character. Well-balanced for such a strong take on the style. 4.5/5

Mouthfeel: Medium body, with a good balance between a smooth but ample carbonation and a touch of alcoholic heat. Mouthfeel is smooth but not especially creamy, though the malt character works fairly well with that notion. Simple but effective. 3.5/5

Overall: Very interesting malt character which is contrasted effectively by the hop and yeast aspects of the brew. Tasty and with an eye for the theatrical, but not outside the box enough to be anywhere near mind-blowing. 4/5

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‘WALKER’S RESERVE’ – FIRESTONE WALKER – Robust Porter – 5.80% ABV

Appearance: Poured a nearly opaque dark orange brown with a two-inch, deep beige. Some carbonation is barely visible. 3.5/5

Smell: Opens with a robust roasted malt aroma: chocolate grains, roasted nuts, and a little coffee but no burntness. Overtones of lighter caramel malts and sweet, earthy hops support the heavy aroma, alongside a tickling of spruce wood. Very balanced and full, though perhaps a bit too invested in the standard porter aesthetic. 4/5

Taste: Moderate to mild sweetness displays further complexity in the malts; bittersweet chocolate and sharp, fragrant black coffee contrast with mellower toffee and oats. A touch of tartness in the finish helps a chewy oak bring a little gravity to the finish, along with a mild to moderately bitter hop character featuring a bit of vinous leaf flavor. Really pops in combination with the solid aroma. 4.5/5

Mouthfeel: Medium body with a rich, smooth mouthfeel. Again, quite well matched, with the richness bringing out a suggestion of grainy oat, and the velvety texture amplifying the seductive darkness of the chocolate. Little to no alcoholic heat 4.5/5

Overall: Great union of aroma, taste, and mouthfeel with just enough individuality to be unique. A good model for the Robust porter style that doesn’t delve into overly harsh burnt flavors or unsessionably powerful flavors. 4/5