Florence pointed out that many Americans imagine that dark beers will be rich, thick and heavy, even though good stouts, porters and dunkels belie that assumption. In a sense, the dunkel style is in an uncomfortable position. The ignorant avoid it because they believe it’s too heavy, while the cognoscenti ignore it because they find it too simple.

Personally, I love complex, contemplative ales. But having explored many genres of beer in the last 30 years, I’ve found myself gravitating toward simpler, easier styles (sessionable, indeed) like dunkels, as well as pilsners, porters and pale and brown ales. These are by no means bland. Simplicity should never be mistaken for lack of character or distinction, especially when the beers are as vibrant and alive as our favorite dunkels.

Garrett, who took on the role of our strict stylistic constructionist, suggested that we had in our tasting some good examples of the Vienna lager style, which were a little lighter in color than what he regarded as ideal. Paradoxically, our favorite, the Gösser Dark, was brewed in Austria, but was the best example of the dunkel style. It had an aroma of dark coffee, a soft, almost delicate texture, and a subtle energy and depth to it that lingered long after the sip was gone.

Our No. 2 beer, the Lakefront Eastside Dark from Milwaukee, also fit the style: dark without being too dark, with malty coffee and hazelnut aromas and a fresh, lively flavor. By contrast, the Saranac Black Forest from Utica, N.Y., at No. 3, might have been a bit too dark. It had a slightly floral aroma along with the requisite maltiness, a combination that was nonetheless refreshing.

Among our 20 bottles, 11 were from Germany, 7 from the United States, and 1 each from Austria and Mexico. Mexico? That would be Negra Modelo, a beer I ordinarily like, but which did not make our cut.

Six German beers made our top 10, beginning with the Ettaler Kloster dunkel, at No. 4, which nicely balanced sweet malt flavors with an undercurrent of hop bitterness. The Ayinger Altbairisch dunkel, at No. 5, was the right color with the right aromas and flavors. We might have rated it higher, but it lacked a bit of energy, possibly because it seemed not to be fresh.

That’s perennially a problem with imported beers, especially with the more esoteric genres like dunkels. If they are transported or stored improperly, and then don’t sell quickly, they can lose their freshness, which is crucial.