WHEAT BERRIES Whole kernels of wheat, with the bran intact. Depending upon the variety of wheat, wheat berries can run from mild and starchy in flavor to earthy and mineral.

EINKORN The oldest precursor to wheat, einkorn was cultivated approximately 12,000 years ago. It has tiny, ricelike, narrow, pleasingly chewy berries that are nutty in flavor.

SPELT A large, pale-colored, starchy ancient wheat ancestor with a gentle nutty, herbal flavor. Spelt (shown) is best in risotto, porridges and grain-and-meat balls, where its starchiness acts as a binder. Spelt flour is often used in breads that some people with gluten sensitivities can tolerate.

EMMER Another ancient relative of wheat, emmer is a direct ancestor of durum wheat. These are medium-size and deeply colored berries, with a richer, earthier flavor than spelt. Emmer flour is excellent for pasta.