Dap was ahead of his time and understood the power of the logo. He applied street smarts and a bodacious mentality to couture by screen printing the monograms of Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Fendi and MCM on to premium leathers and married them with luxurious and unusual materials from ostrich to mink, and python to kevlar. The trailblazer created garments aimed at young African Americans, as luxury brands did not cater to their demographic and would often stigmatised them if they were to venture down Fifth Avenue and into their stateside flagships.

Similar to hip hop’s forbears, Dap exercised the same process used in developing the genre: sampling, mixing and cutting. From Louis Vuitton bomber jackets to fully-clad MCM car interiors, Gucci bulletproof parkas to Fendi baseball caps, Dap could create anything, including silhouettes that luxury brands would never dream of. The hip hop and crack generation’s mindset was very much focused on breaking free from the social restraints set upon by previous generations and political rule. So, outlandishly showcasing luxury goods via the forms of clothing, jewellery and cars was evidence of having ‘made it’. Owning a piece by Dapper Dan was widely considered to be the pinnacle of the period’s success. It made you ‘someone’.

Gangsters, street hustlers and Harlem kingpins were his initial customers. They took his creations to the streets and were soon followed by rappers and sport stars who took it to the entertainment industry. Before hip hop’s explosion, the visual narrative of genres such as jazz, rock, blues and disco formed the inspirational basis for his commissions. Dap took cues from the aforementioned genre’s icons on their sartorial elegance and swagger and injected a dose of street culture, with wider and looser silhouettes, sharp collars and shorter jackets marred with bold, contrasting patterns and logos. The renowned Harlem kingpin Alpo Martinez — whose tale of rags-to-riches-to-snitches was the inspiration for the popular 2002 crime filmPaid In Full, which is filled with Dapper Dan references — once commissioned Dap to create 11 suits in one go, each nearing $10,000. Some jackets were fitted with extra deep pockets to conceal weapons. Martinez is now in the witness protection system following incarceration for multiple murders and violent crimes,but in his heyday sporting Dapper Dan eluded power and a sense of vigilante and untouchable outlaw.

Recognition by the golden age’s leading artists cemented Dap’s reputation within the New York community and beyond with commissions coming in from Washington DC and the West coast.The formidable rap duo Eric B. & Rakim wore matching Gucci jackets - created by Dap - on the covers of their hit records Paid In Full (1987) and Follow The Leader(1988). Paid In Fullis widely considered to be the greatest rap album ever, and as a result Dap’s creations will always be associated with that legend. LL Cool J rocked a Gucci red bomber jacket to match his Kangol bucket hat and performed in a two-piece MCM tracksuit, both of which bought from Dapper Dan. One of the most iconic looks was sported by the late DJ E-Z Rock, who commissioned Dap to create him a brown velour two-piece tracksuit with Louis Vuitton monogram side seams. He went as far as having the Nike ‘tick’ on his Air Force 1 in matching Louis Vuitton leather. Other notable artists include Salt-N-Pepper, Big Daddy Kane, The Fat Boys, KRS-One and Jam Master Jay.