Are you a curd nerd? Inside Devine Cheese, a new downtown San Jose cafe

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The name — Devine Cheese & Wine — says it all. Notice how “cheese” comes first? This is not a wine bar with cheese. It’s a cheese-centric cafe in downtown San Jose — a concept that owner Liana Ryan has brought to fruition after years of planning. A Bay Area native, she got hooked on goat cheese as a teenager but didn’t become a true fromage fanatic until she was working in the restaurant industry in New York City. On their drive back to California, she and her husband, Darren, scouted out boutique cheese-making operations throughout the country.

THE VIBE: Urban and approachable, with high-top tables set against tall windows, cozy tables for two and plank seating softened by pillows. There’s seating for up to 37 inside and, when the patio opens, 25 more outside. As you walk in, check out the case near the open kitchen where all but the most delicate cheeses are brought to the proper temperature before serving.

THE FOOD: If you’re a curd nerd, you’re going to have a tough time narrowing down your cheese-board choices from this awesome list (each priced at $7, which includes accompaniments). There are 25 selections now, and Ryan’s aiming for 30-35 every day.

We sampled four intriguing ones: Cottonwood River Cheddar, an aged yet still mellow number from Kansas; Chiriboga Blue, a buttery cheese with a smooth finish that’s crafted in Germany by an Ecuadorian cheesemaker; Dancing Fern, a piney, washed-rind cheese from Tennessee; and Tete du Moine, a pungent cheese from Switzerland that’s served shaved into thin ruffles. Next time we’ll try Ryan’s current favorite, Meredith Dairy from Australia, a fresh sheep/cow cheese marinated in olive oil, garlic, black peppercorns and herbs.

With rich cheese (and maybe charcuterie) for a starter course, head next to the Veggies portion of the chef-driven menu for a beautifully composed Squash-Radicchio Salad with walnuts, labneh and chermoula ($14) or Butter Lettuce Salad dressed with a shallot confit vinaigrette ($11).

Entrees can be shared with any non-cheese-eaters in the crowd. On the inaugural menu, there are winter-friendly options including Wild Mushroom Pasta, housemade noodles tossed with a long-simmer sugo and served with broccolini ($19), and Braised Short Rib atop heirloom polenta with a drizzle of salsa verde ($21).

DON’T MISS: A traditional Swiss dish becomes Raclette Tennessee Style ($15) when the potatoes are topped with melted Coppinger, an earthy, raw-milk cheese with a layer of vegetable ash that’s made near the Cumberland Plateau. Cornichons and pickled onions counter the richness.

THE SIPS: Another carefully curated list, with obvious attention paid to female winemakers. The global list of 30 includes Eva Fricke’s off-dry riesling from Rheingau, Leah Jorgensen’s Loire-style cabernet franc from Oregon and Faith Armstrong’s dry-farmed Farmstrong field white from Napa/Suisun Valley.

GOOD TO KNOW: Devine is located on the VTA light-rail line, near the St. James stop. Related Articles Saratoga’s La Mère Michelle reopens after six-month hiatus

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PERFECT FOR … Bites and sips before a night out in downtown San Jose, whether that be for opera, hockey, jazz or theater.

DETAILS: Open Tuesday through Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m. at 27 Devine St. at Second Street, San Jose. 408-924-0818; www.devinecheeseandwine.com

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