Performance Pico Pico Plus 39 Pico Plus 33 Pico Plus 27 Build Size: X, Y, Z 40 x 30 x 75mm 50 x 31.2 x 75mm 42.5 x 26.5 x 75mm 35 x 21.8 x 75mm Pixel Size: X, Y 39 Microns 39 Microns 33 Microns 27 Microns Accuracy: Z Arbitrary in 1 micron increments Power 110 ~ 240V (50~60 Hz) 10A MAX Software Asiga Composer Included Light Source UV LED File Input STL & SLC Machine Size 220 x 225 x 505mm Weight 15kg

Frequently Asked Questions

World’s First Pico 3D Printer The Freeform Pico is a professional 3D printing system offering tooling-grade resolution, solid-state reliability, and world-beating affordability in a compact package. The Pico is perfect for industries such as dental, jewelry, medical, animation, electronics, architecture and industrial design where high resolution, low cost of ownership and extreme reliability are paramount. A true desktop system, the Pico features Asiga's “sliding separation” technology for building ultra-smooth precision models. The Pico is also the first system of its kind incorporating an ultraviolet LED light source with a lifetime of up to 50,000 hours. The result is rock-steady performance, day after day, year after year, and no bulbs, lasers or jets to replace, ever.

If I buy a Pico machine, can it be adjusted to a Pico Plus machine?

Yes, The Pico and Plus39 have the same projector height settings. It is possible to upgrade a Pico to a Plus39 easily. To change a Pico Plus 39 to a 33 or 27, we have adjust the height of the projector which is relatively easy but you must also re-calibrate the LED brightness. The closer you bring the Projector to the Build Plane the higher the intensity from the LED and for this you will need a Radiometer. For this reason, this can only be done in the factory so if you want a Plus 33 or Plus 27, please order it that way.

Do I need a calibration kit?

The calibration kit contains useful tools for calibrating like veneers, special coated plates for viewing focus, tools, UV glasses etc. It is not vital but will save you in time and cost in acquiring these items separately.

Do I need a flash unit?

The flash unit is not needed for the casting material, but is suggested for all other materials.

I was told that the Z axis works at 25 microns on all of the machines. Is this correct?

The z-axis is NOT fixed at 25 microns. It can be set to any resolution down to 1 micron. The pre-set options in the drop down menu are only suggestions, you can type in any value.

I know that the machine has very few moving parts but what about the Z motor and the light source?

The z-motor is a brushless Swiss made Maxon motor. It has yet to wear out. The LED is also expected to last 5 years continuously on, probably 20 years of solid use or 50,000 hours.

How long (roughly) does it take to calibrate the unit and how often do I need to do it?

Calibration takes 2 minutes and is required when the machine is moved and approximately every few months. It just requires a screwdriver. The LED is automatically calibrated by an internal sensor.

Do the design’s parts need to be ‘water tight’ and can the unit grow intersecting parts?

Intersecting parts are okay. Watertight is not strictly required as our slicer can tolerate some errors. But of course the customer needs to supply a reasonably good quality STL file.

What maintenance is required (annual, monthly), per use changing fluids?

Only maintenance required is the alignment calibration as described above, and general cleaning as required. The grub screws on the linear stage may require re-tightening on an annual basis.

Approximately how many pieces can you get from a bottle of material?

As for yield from a 500mL (500cc) bottle of material, first find the volume of the part you wish to print, add 10% for waste and then divide part volume from 500cc. 500/(part volume +10%). For a standard ladies wedding band you will be anywhere from 500-900 parts from one bottle of material (depending on weight/volume).

What should I do if a build comes out blank?

The machine can lose connection with the projector after long periods of it being idle or after a firmware upgrade. You can check that the projector is ready before each print by either: 1. Place the Focus Plate on the Tension Ring and show the focus image (remove the build tray first). If the focus image is displayed then the projector is ready.



or



2. Tilt open the front door and check that the Blue LED's on the projector are ON continuously. If they are flashing then the machine requires a shutdown and restart.



If the machine has been idle for some time then it is best to check the connection.