WALK east from the subway along bustling 30th Avenue in Astoria, Queens, and you’ll pass several old-school meat markets. One, Greek-owned, often brandishes whole flayed animals.

Step into Butcher Bar a few blocks farther down and you’ll encounter a newer ethos. An austere 20-seat dining area is framed by a mirrored wall and blond wood. Beyond is an open kitchen, incorporating a prim showcase for pasture-raised pork and chicken and grass-fed, sometimes grain-finished beef. Cuts of meat can be taken home, to be prepared in your kitchen, or cooked and served on the spot.

Butcher Bar — opened in December by three young New Yorkers of Greek descent, Matthew Katakis, Kathy Castro and George Haramis — isn’t New York’s first outlet for local natural meats. Indeed, the chalkboard that touts “this week’s farms” also honors several of the city’s well-known providers. But in the territory of northwest Queens, Butcher Bar is a pioneer.

Butcher Bar was conceived as a market, then expanded to include a kitchen and table service. As a result, the menu, which embraces both aspects of the business, can be confusing. The servers, thank goodness, are able guides, and, despite the “Got grass?” motto on their uniforms, they’re not preachy.