Over several visits I sampled every meze except the meatballs, which were on the menu but never on the premises. The hummus served with warm pita triangles was smooth-textured, but needed a freer hand with the garlic and lemon to suit me. Saganaki would have been more enjoyable if the salty kefalograviera cheese hadn’t been so greasy, though its pan-fired finish of Metaxa brandy and lemon juice, lighted at the table, was a welcome flourish.

Moussaka is offered as both a small plate and as an entree. The latter arrived as a large square, with a thick top layer of béchamel sauce that had a tired look and taste, as though it had been made earlier and reheated. But an entree of grilled salmon, accompanied by savory rice, tasted fresh, char-broiled to just the perfect degree of doneness (light) and tickled with oregano.

Those staples of Greek street food — souvlaki and gyros — are offered as entrees as well as sandwiches here. The gyro platter of roasted, well-seasoned pork and lamb slices and the chicken souvlaki entree (pork is another option), marinated and grilled, were both served over pita bread and accompanied by a hillock of Greek salad, a heaping mound of French fries and a dipping sauce of tangy tzatziki. Like many of the meat and fish dishes at Kouzina, these benefited from an extra spritz of fresh lemon juice, which Greek cooks use freely to tweak the flavors, so ask for a few wedges with your order.

There are just three desserts on the menu, all delicious. The baklava had lots of crunch and a generous sprinkle of chopped walnuts. Galaktoboureko, a warm custard baked in phyllo dough, with an edge of sugar-honey syrup, was even tastier. Rounding off the list was a simple parfait of Greek yogurt in an eddy of honey and walnuts.