On the eastern edge of the campus is the Lyndon B. Johnson Presidential Library and Museum. The displays include a nearly full-size replica of the Oval Office. Open daily, 9 to 5, free (512-482-5136).

South of the campus is the State Capitol, a pink granite domed structure that, true to the Texas spirit, is seven feet taller than the United States Capitol. There are free guided tours every 15 minutes from 8:15 to 4:30 (512-475-3070).

The nearby Governor's Mansion, an impressive Greek Revival structure, offers free 20-minute tours through the parlors, dining room, gardens and conservatory from 10 to noon, Monday through Friday (512-475-2121).

Other sites of interest include the O. Henry Museum, where the writer lived for a while as a youth; the old French legation (1841), once the residence of the French charge d'affaires to the Republic of Texas; the Old Land Office Building, now a museum of Texas history, and the magnificent Treaty Oak, a 500-year-old tree at 503 Baylor, under whose branches many an Indian treaty was signed. Environs Mount Bonnell, a mountaintop park near the Laguna Gloria Museum on the west side of town, is the highest point in Austin and offers splendid views of the whole city and the lakes made from damming up the Colorado River. Another popular route is Scenic Drive, built by early Mormons, which winds along Lake Austin and glides past some of the city's most magnificent homes.

Austin is the gateway to the Texas Hill Country, which provides a wonderful sampling of ranch life, as well as German, Mexican and barbecue restaurants. Plan a visit to the LBJ Ranch, about 50 miles west of Austin on U.S. 290, and just past Hye, the home of the President's widow, Lady Bird. The National Park Service runs free 90-minute bus tours of the still working ranch, the family cemetery and Lyndon's birthplace and one-room schoolhouse. Daily from 10 to 5:30 (512-644-2252).

On the way back to Austin, stop and see the Johnson boyhood home in Johnson City; again, no fee. Just east of Austin is a newer Johnson venture, Lady Bird's Wildflower Center (512-929-3601). This research center is open for free public tours during April and May (Tuesdays and Wednedays 9 to noon, Thursdays 1 to 4, Sundays 1 to 3). Drive five miles east of Austin on Farm-to-Market Road 973 and look for the sign on the fence.

At the end of the day, do what generations of Austinites have done and refresh yourself at Barton Springs. This is a 900-foot-long spring-fed swimming hole, carved out of living limestone, that is a constant 68 degrees all year. Zilker Park, south of downtown; admission is $1.50. Music Things have not been quite the same since the Armadillo World Headquarters, the country music supermarket, was demolished a few years ago. But it would be a pity to visit Austin - home of Willie Nelson and Stevie Ray Vaughan - without sampling its vibrant and justly famed live music. It has more country music than anyplace outside of Nashville, but also plenty of blues, jazz, rock, new wave or whatever is trendy. The clubs and bands bloom and wilt almost as fast as the wildflowers, so it is best to a pick up a copy of the Austin Chronicle, a biweekly of music and art, or Third Coast magazine, for the latest.