From Modric’s magic and Pavard’s screamer to unwelcome theatrics and wearing the wrong T-shirt, our writers give their take on the tournament in Russia

Nick Ames

Match of the tournament Russia v Croatia had it all: a spectacular goal from Denis Cheryshev, unbearable tension during a see-sawing extra-time period, raucous celebrations when Mário Fernandes equalised and then shootout heartache for the hosts – followed quickly by an acknowledgment they should hold their heads high.

Player of the tournament Luka Modric. Influential from the first game but by extra-time of the Croatia v England game it was impossible to take your eyes off him. Modric has played more fluently but the way he dragged himself and his team through against the odds was breathtaking.

World Cup 2018: the Guardian team of the tournament Read more

Goal of the tournament Ricardo Quaresma’s trademark “trivela” for Portugal against Iran was a luscious piece of skill that bears watching time and again.

Personal highlight It sounds a bit mawkish but watching the sun rise over Kazan Arena from my apartment, only a few hours after seeing France beat Argentina 4-3 there in a stunning game of football, gave rise to a feeling of immense gladness simply to be here. Nobody would take covering this tournament for granted.

Biggest disappointment That we did not see a more diverse tournament from the quarter-finals onwards. Europe’s primacy was disconcerting and, while we may have to wait to see if it is a trend, not entirely surprising. It was a regret off the pitch, too, because the vibrancy that tens of thousands of Latin American fans brought to the early stages was one of the aspects that made this month special.

Trickiest off-field moment The weight of responsibility has rarely felt heavier than when, having booked a minibus to take yours truly and seven colleagues from Kazan to Samara in time for England v Sweden, the vehicle arrived an hour and 20 minutes late. That was the good news. A confused driver, who had somehow got lost en route to our apartment, then emerged and explained that (a) the sound on his sat nav had packed in and (b) he didn’t know the way to Samara anyway. With the help of our phones and a rotation of front-seat assistants, we just about muddled through the six-hour journey in time to cover the quarter-final.

Fondest memory of Russia Less a specific memory than simple pleasure that visiting supporters and locals interacted so joyfully and saw each other’s best sides. In regional cities such as Samara and Volgograd, particularly, one could see how much it meant to people who had never experienced anything like this before; the only shame is that so few fans from western Europe, in particular, felt emboldened to join in.

What now for England? The good feeling must be bottled because normality will kick in soon and the reality is that, if England are to succeed, they need to ensure the best players are given a workable pathway to the top. The current crop are decent but not good enough to lift major trophies: until top clubs’ development processes tilt in favour of the players that will remain the case.

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Dominic Fifield

Match of the tournament Portugal 3-3 Spain, a game which set the bar high and probably gave both teams false hope as to their own capabilities in Russia. Cristiano Ronaldo was a force of nature, Spain pinged their passes, looking irrepressible, and an upbeat tone was set for everything that followed. The World Cup, if not necessarily Spain and Portugal, lived up to expectations thereafter.

Player of the tournament Eden Hazard. The Premier League has long grown accustomed to his genius but here he was illuminating the world stage. He provided goals, assists and mesmeric dribbles and will have been privately disappointed to finish only third, even if his declaration that his time at Chelsea may be up was a sting in the tail.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Eden Hazard passes the ball during Belgium’s World Cup third-place play-off victory over England. Photograph: Tom Jenkins/Guardian

Goal of the tournament Right-backs had some fun in Russia. Take your pick between Nacho’s goal, skimmed in off both posts, against Portugal and Benjamin Pavard’s stunning reward against Argentina.

Personal highlight Jordan Pickford’s save from Carlos Bacca, and Eric Dier claiming a penalty shootout for England. Followed closely by the glory of The Motherland Calls and the Stalingrad memorial.

Biggest disappointment Argentina, who I bafflingly suggested might win the tournament. There was no pace, no energy and far too much reliance on Lionel Messi. They were fortunate to escape the group and beaten more convincingly by France than the 4-3 scoreline suggested.



Trickiest off-field moment The flies of Volgograd, who swarmed all day off the Volga marshes. Oh, and the mosquitoes of Repino, who came out with a vengeance at dusk. My God, they loved me as much as I detested them. They will not be missed. That said, vanilla oil was a find, and more pleasant than Deet.



Fondest memory of Russia St Petersburg. An incredible city, a glorious blend of Paris, Vienna and Amsterdam, with a dash of Scandinavia thrown in. It was heartening to see England’s players making the most of their days off to visit its sights, from the Hermitage to the Winter Palace, via the fairground.



What now for England? For once England leave in a promising place. They have a plan, a manager with a vision and a crop of young players waiting in the wings. The Nations League, which starts in the autumn, will not be straightforward but could cultivate the renewed interest in international football. The World Cup was all about progress. Now they must maintain it.



Thomas Hitzlsperger

Match of the tournament Portugal v Spain.

Player of the tournament Eden Hazard.

Goal of the tournament Benjamin Pavard against Argentina.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Benjamin Pavard hits his sumptuous volley. Photograph: Kieran McManus/BPI/Rex/Shutterstock

Personal highlight Mbappé’s solo run against Argentina.

Biggest disappointment The Germany team.

Trickiest off-field moment Because England did so well and Gareth Southgate became so popular, I was asked to wear a waistcoat in the TV studio. The crew were really excited about it but I wasn’t happy at all. I decided against it. Fortunately, they kept me on until the last day …

Fondest memory I went to Volgograd before the World Cup and was overwhelmed, having visited the Mamayev Hill monuments and Rossoschka, a Russian-German military cemetery. It was a history lesson like I’ve never experienced.

What now for England? Keep the team spirit alive and practise more possession and fewer set pieces.

David Hytner

Match of the tournament Belgium v Brazil. For Belgium’s counterattacking masterclass in the first half and the breakneck drama after the interval. The pace and intensity were incredible.

Croatia’s World Cup run must bring end to game’s neglect back home | Aleksandar Holiga Read more

Player of the tournament I loved the way Paul Pogba handled himself but Luka Modric was the stand-out performer. I have long thought he was the world’s finest central midfielder and he oozed class and control. Showed courage to step up in the last-16 shootout against Denmark, having missed a penalty in extra-time.

Goal of the tournament Toni Kroos v Sweden. OK, it seriously messed with me on deadline but the intelligence, technique and execution, with Germany’s hopes on the line, were extraordinary. I thought it would spark Germany into life. I was wrong.

Personal highlight So many. Watching Brazil live. Enjoying Tite (Cheechee). Being there for Mário Fernandes’s equaliser. Having a stroll in Gorky Park and Neskuchny Garden. People watching on Novy Arbat. Being on a fan bus packed with Colombians when the Colombia team bus overtook. Meeting Carlos Valderrama. Finding out what a good bloke Dejan Lovren is. The emotion at the final.

Biggest disappointment Neymar was the coolest kid in the world at Brazil 2014. I remember him doing keepie-uppies as he strolled out for training and looking as though he did not have a care – as 200 million Brazilians invested their dreams in him. The king turned into a princess here. His theatrics did him no credit.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Neymar reacts after a challenge against Serbia. Photograph: Dean Mouhtaropoulos/Getty Images

Trickiest off-field moment My first full day was in Rostov-on-Don, where I was covering Brazil v Switzerland. I had to get to the stadium for the press conferences. There was no tube. I could not get an Uber, Yandex or regular cab. I had not yet discovered the game-changer that was Google Translate. I was completely stuck and it was a horrible feeling. I would be saved by a big-hearted couple, whom I had met the night before, and they drove me to the stadium. It set a good tone.

Fondest memory of Russia My takeaway was the heartfelt desire of Russian people for their country to be appreciated. Every single Russian I met in ran through the same questions. What do you think of Russia? What do you think of our city? And, invariably, what do you think of our women? It mattered to them that visitors departed with different perceptions. Moscow is now one of my top five cities.

What now for England? Quite simply, to enjoy the positivity for as long as it lasts.

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Stuart James

Match of the tournament Belgium 3-2 Japan. I expected Belgium to stroll to victory but Japan were absolutely terrific. When Japan went 2-0 up, James Ducker, from the Telegraph, and I looked at each other in the press box as if to say: “What on earth is happening?” Belgium, to their credit, responded brilliantly. What a way to win, too – the best counterattacking goal I’ve ever seen.

Player of the tournament Hard to look beyond Luka Modric, who has been so influential in what will surely be his last World Cup, but let’s not ignore the contribution of N’Golo Kanté, even if the Frenchman would quite happily go under the radar. Kylian Mbappé deserves a mention too – he is going to be a superstar, if he isn’t already.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Kylian Mbappé takes a corner against Peru. Photograph: Michael Regan/Fifa via Getty Images

Goal of the tournament Spoilt for choice. Benjamin Pavard’s strike against Argentina was tremendous. I also liked Nacho’s goal for Spain in their thrilling draw with Portugal – what technique again. But I’m plumping for Denis Cheryshev’s second against Saudi Arabia. Elegantly stroked into the top corner with the outside of his left boot, it was a thing of beauty and set the tone for this World Cup.

Personal highlight Watching and reporting on England in their first World Cup semi-final since 1990, when I was 14. I never imagined for a minute I’d find myself in that situation when I left for Russia. And what a moment when Kieran Trippier’s free-kick hit the back of the net. Let’s not go there with what happened later.

There is a cloud hanging over this World Cup and Fifa must not ignore it | Stuart James Read more

Biggest disappointment The amount of play-acting but in particular Neymar’s rolling around. It was embarrassing watching him at times and sad, too, given his talent. He’s not alone, though, and it has got to the stage where Fifa needs to confront the issue head-on. Sadly, it will probably ignore it.

Trickiest off-field moment I could write a book on this one. I got lost quite a lot and didn’t master the metro in Moscow until day 30 (I went home the following morning). Getting in and out of the hammock in my apartment in Sochi was testing. And I somehow ended up with five courses after ordering soup for lunch in Saransk. Thank heavens for Google Translate, which prevented more buffoonery and became my best friend.

Fondest memory of Russia So many to choose from but I’d probably say walking to the Mordovia Arena in Saransk for Peru’s first World Cup game in 36 years. I remember turning this corner and seeing thousands and thousands of red and white shirts stretching as far as the eye could see. They were marching, singing, laughing and smiling – having the time of their lives. It was an extraordinary sight and gives me goosebumps whenever I think about it.

What now for England? The balance doesn’t feel right in midfield and that showed against Croatia, so Gareth Southgate has some work to do there. But let’s just be positive: there’s a feelgood factor that hasn’t been there for ages. Heck, I’d quite like to take my son to an England game now and I never thought I’d say that.

Martha Kelner

Match of tournament I watched Spain v Portugal in a poky Volgograd hotel room on a 13-inch TV made at least a couple of decades ago. But even that could not dampen the enjoyment of a game for the ages. As for that Ronaldo free-kick, he just knew he was going to score. Incredible.

Player of tournament Eden Hazard may not have reached the final but he was consistently brilliant, turning in three man-of-the-match performances. He was still captivating his audience in the mixed zone after the third-place play-off, all but announcing that he wanted out of Chelsea.

Goal of tournament Might be slightly coloured by the fact I saw it live but Jesse Lingard’s 25-yard curler against Panama – his first international goal – was a stunner. Yes, the opposition were limited and England were already well on their way, but after watching him having lumps taken out of him all afternoon it was a welcome, beautiful interruption.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Jesse Lingard curls the ball into the net against Panama. Photograph: Dave Shopland/BPI/Rex/Shutterstock

Personal highlight Being inside Spartak Stadium to witness England finally win a penalty shootout. You try to remain impartial as a journalist but you also report what you experience and it’s impossible not to have felt some of Gareth Southgate’s joy. He said afterwards he’d never get over the penalty miss at Euro 96 but you hope leading a team to a shootout victory eased the burden.

Biggest disappointment That Lionel Messi and Ronaldo could not assert themselves more on the tournament. But that blow was softened by the emergence of another superstar in Kylian Mbappé.

Trickiest off-field moment Getting stuck in some pretty epic match-day traffic in Kaliningrad before England played Belgium. We were still for half an hour about three miles from the stadium with the clock ticking to kick-off. Cue abandoning my taxi, hiring a bike from a nearby shop and cycling to the stadium over the main highway, which mercifully they had shut.

Fondest memory of Russia Meeting a 17-year-old girl waitressing at a restaurant in Samara, a city 1,000km south-east of Moscow. When I told her I was from London, she could not contain her excitement. She wanted to know everything about England and we’re now friends on social media. In fact this whole trip has been a reminder not to confuse people with politics. Particularly the younger generation of Russians have been friendly, inquisitive and so welcoming.

What now for England? To continue progressing, to blood new talent such as Ryan Sessegnon and Phil Foden. And to use the knowledge that Euro 2020 will feel somewhat like a home tournament, with seven games at Wembley, to train sights on the future.

Amy Lawrence

Match of the tournament France 4-3 Argentina. If your heart didn’t soar at the sight of what Kylian Mbappé did, you’ve no business watching sport (Argentinians excepted). The interweaving storylines, high emotions, brilliant goals, passing of batons and lurching drama made for an all-time classic.

Player of the tournament Mulling this over in the days before the final the cases for Luka Modric and Mbappé felt particularly strong. Not much changed there during the final – both are absolutely deserving of the highest accolades – but something about Paul Pogba, the way he has commanded games, made his mark, played his role so emphatically for the team, and influenced the final swung it.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest France’s Paul Pogba holds the trophy as he celebrates. Photograph: Dylan Martinez/Reuters

Goal of the tournament Welcome to the old screamer versus purity of technique versus team goal dilemma. Belgium’s match-winner against Japan was seriously impressive especially in its context. Lionel Messi’s cushioned second touch against Nigeria is a thing of beauty in itself. Benjamin Pavard’s lasered volley just about gets my nod.



I knew Benjamin Pavard was good but he has reached new heights in Russia | Thomas Hitzlsperger Read more

Personal highlight Away from the stadiums, being in the evocatively named Snob Bar in Kazan riveted to the humdinger between Spain and Portugal accompanied by high-speed house music and a guy lolling around in a giant polar bear costume for no obvious reason. In the stadium, seeing Swedes and Mexicans start an impromptu dance-off to their “Bye Bye Germany” song after the dramatic, topsy-turvy ending to Group F.

Biggest disappointment Not being able to lay my hands on a “Rock Arsenal” T-shirt – Ekaterinburg’s finest radio station, don’t you know – despite an extensive hunt.

Trickiest off-field moment Trying to survive 90 minutes of Japan v Senegal sitting next to someone who had absolutely no idea how to manage some seriously intense body odour.

Fondest memory of Russia Peruvians. They seemed to be everywhere. Watching the world go by from the banks of the Iset River in Ekaterinburg, somewhere I doubt I would have ever ventured without this World Cup, was lovely and of course enhanced by little groups of wandering Peruvians.

What now for England? Creativity. Find it, nurture it, encourage it, use it. A culture of doing well in tournaments is now in place across the age groups. Adding finesse at senior level is the missing ingredient that could make a telling difference.

Sid Lowe

Match of the tournament Spain 3-3 Portugal, my first game, was quite a way to start a tournament in which I seemed to get lucky often (confession time: journalists don’t always feel “lucky” exactly when games are dramatic and decided by late goals). Even Switzerland-Serbia, supposedly a nice quiet night, turned out grand. Argentina-Nigeria was quite something. But the best games were not mine. Enjoyed Belgium-Brazil (and, unfashionably, I think Brazil were good). But my favourite was probably Belgium-Japan.

Player of the tournament Rakitic? Kanté? Mbappé? I’m leaning towards Eden Hazard and Luka Modric. He may not have been the best but when it comes to what actually happened over the month, the things that players actually did, the impact they had, the effectiveness, the key moments, then Antoine Griezmann.

Goal of the tournament 1. Cheryshev. 2. Cheryshev. 3. Cheryshev. OK, it’s actually Toni Kroos or, better still, Belgium’s winner against Japan. Only it’s not for me: see also ‘personal highlight’, below.

Personal highlight Watching the brutal beauty of Edinson Cavani’s goal against Portugal, a 100-metre one-two between him and Luis Suárez, the ball smashed from one side of the pitch to the other and back, before flying in off Cavani’s face. Inside a stadium, I’ve rarely been hit – and it really did feel as if you’d been hit – by a goal quite like that. And then there’s Felipe Baloy scoring for Panama. Wonderful.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Edinson Cavani scores his side’s opening goal against Portugal. Photograph: Andrew Medichini/AP

Biggest disappointment Spain. Also, from a cynical point of view, I can’t help wondering what might have been for Belgium and Uruguay in the other half of the draw – two teams I would have liked to see reach a final. Off the pitch: not really getting the chance to experience Moscow which, when I was all too briefly acquainted with it, looked great. Or England-Colombia, for that matter.

Trickiest off-field moment Being in A&E worryingly close to kick-off on England’s semi-final but I had left Russia by then so that probably doesn’t count. A cup, two tea bags, a tea spoon and no kettle: eh? The couple we thought had departed the restaurant and headed home returning just as we were ‘borrowing’ the still almost-full bottle of wine they had (or had not) left behind. Or how about the very, very first moment? Land in Moscow late, switch phone on … Lopetegui’s done what, now?!

Fondest memory of Russia Match-day cakes in the hotel, of course. Football street lights. 2am sunrises and walking through St Petersburg at dawn.

What now for England? Carry on, while recognising the reality beneath the feel-good factor. (England’s World Cup record is actually remarkably consistent.) Play, and try to play: there is plenty to be positive about. Be nice still. Nice is good. And nice doesn’t have to come last.



Marta

Player of the tournament Luka Modric. He took Croatia to the final, with the help of his teammates, and the truth is that Croatia surprised everyone.

Goal of the tournament Benjamin Pavard’s against Argentina was a great goal, as was Nacho’s against Portugal. This World Cup had many beautiful goals, including Philippe Coutinho’s too.

Personal highlight VAR. It would be more interesting and fair to implement the rule that exists in tennis, whereby a team would be able to ask for a review. This would be limited to, say, two reviews per team in each game and referees would still have total control.

Biggest disappointment Germany. Everyone expected more from them. They played below their expect level; it was as if their main players hadn’t even travelled to Russia.

What now for England? England did not have a bad World Cup and got better as competition went along. But the truth is they did not play well in the semi-final against Croatia. Their main player, Harry Kane, was “erased” from the game and England lost their reference up top.

Nick Miller

Match of the tournament Maybe just because I was there, but I haven’t been more viscerally thrilled by a game for a long time than Belgium v Japan. If anything summed up the strangeness of this World Cup, it was a knockout game being turned round by Marouane Fellaini and Nacer Chadli.

Player of the tournament Luka Modric. To play as well as he has would be remarkable under normal circumstances, but to do so with the looming prospect of a trial on his mind has been astounding.

Goal of the tournament Christian Eriksen’s against Australia was probably the best I saw live, but just because it was so unusual I loved Benjamin Pavard’s against Argentina.

Personal highlight The game wasn’t hugely memorable but I was at Brazil v Switzerland. Watching Brazil at a World Cup is like visiting some sort of venerated monument: often not that impressive on the face of it but the history and stories behind it are inescapable.

Biggest disappointment Morocco. I got swept up in gushing pre-tournament predictions and thought they might embarrass Portugal and/or Spain, but their performances turned out akin to a limp bit of lettuce.

Trickiest off-field moment It was broadly fine, other than the scandalous confiscation of my deodorant at the Luzhniki. Oh, and I was also stopped at a metro station and instructed to produce my passport, which I did not have on me. Brief visions of a future at Vladimir’s Big House flashed before my eyes but my press pass turned out to satisfy the lust for admin.

Fondest memory of Russia People dancing in the Moscow streets after Russia beat Spain. The impromptu party that formed around a busking, instrumental post-rock band in a park was a particular highlight.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Fans in in Nikolskaya Street celebrate Russia’s victory over Spain. Photograph: Mikhail Pochuyev/TASS via Getty Images

What now for England? Here’s a hot take: I genuinely don’t know. In theory it should be bright, a talented young team due to be supplemented by further promising young talent, but how often do theories work out in international football? I fear this will turn out to be one of those long, hot, strange summers that will feel as if it didn’t happen in a few years.

Barney Ronay

Match of the tournament In the flesh, Spain versus Russia. Perhaps the most lop-sided match I’ve ever seen and one of the oddest. Sensible people will point to the fact Spain lost their manager and just didn’t play their system well. But still hard not to wax on about the limits of possession football and the weird agony of watching Spain pass the ball. Plus of course the hysteria of Russia and penalties.

Player of the tournament Luka Modric. Best player for a tiny nation in the final. Ran further, aged 32, than any other player except his teammate Ivan Perisic. But of course it’s about the craft with Modric and his ability to drag a game his team’s way was of the highest class. Put him in five or six other teams here and they could have made the final too.

Goal of the tournament Ricardo Quaresma for the one-off trivela-style curler, a wonderful piece of individual skill he keeps on doing year after year. And Belgium in the last minute against Japan for the ultimate high-pressure team goal, made by

Kevin De Bruyne’s laser-pass and Romelu Lukaku’s dummy.

Personal highlight The absence of any fighting or trouble, not to mention mind games, wars of words, handshake-refusals or anything much apart from the football.

Biggest disappointment Get a grip Brazil. This was once a team of tough guys, charmers and rogues. Nílton Santos, Jairzinho, Romário, Leônidas and Carlos Alberto are turning in their graves watching the current diving, weeping lot. And half of them aren’t even dead.

Trickiest off-field moment After a lot of early running around – five flights in three days, five games in six days – I did briefly fall asleep on a stool in a departure lounge. When I woke up I couldn’t remember with any real certainty what city I was in. I looked at my boarding pass, but I wasn’t sure if it was the right one. Eventually asked someone.

Fondest memory of Russia Football, people, meat, beer, beetroot, wide streets, huge buildings, all-night bars, amazing supermarkets and the busking folk dance duo from some conservatoire who popped up on the street in Moscow one night and performed an astonishing routine for a few roubles in a hat. This is from someone for whom the words “amazing folk dance” don’t exactly trip off the tongue

What now for England? Fifty years of hurt.

Andrew Roth

Match of the tournament Spain-Portugal kicked this tournament into high gear. Spain at moments played the best football of any country at the World Cup and both sides scored lovely goals, capped by Cristiano Ronaldo hiking up his shorts and curling that free-kick round the Spanish wall. Very satisfying draw.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Composite image showing the path of the ball from Cristiano Ronaldo’s right boot and into the net. Photograph: Kyodo News via Getty Images

Player of the tournament Likely this should go to a defender or even a goalkeeper, but I will opt for Kylian Mbappé, whose speed has been dazzling.

Goal of the tournament Toni Kroos’s free-kick. Set pieces played a central role and this one was their king: a beautiful strike from an impossible angle executed with cool German precision. The gif of this winner (with Marco Reus’s reaction) is mesmerising. Also an honorary mention to Denis Cheryshev’s goal against Croatia; best Russian strike since Battleship Potemkin.

Personal highlight This would have to be the citywide bacchanal after Russia’s shock win over Spain. Moscow is an extraordinary city but is not the world’s friendliest. Seeing a riot policeman politely tell a fan by the Bolshoi to stop spraying champagne on passers-by captured the spirit of this night for me.

Biggest disappointment Denmark versus France. Any chance to give players a rest at a tournament must be hard to pass up for a manager but it’s a shame for fans to pay hundreds of dollars each to go and watch a match that neither team came to play.

Trickiest off-field moment Balancing politics and sport as a Moscow-based journalist. Many fans blamed the English media for scare stories about Russia before the tournament, although I suspect they’re referring more to tabloid headlines than our coverage. In any case we should have nuance in our discussion of Russia, one that can acknowledge an excellent World Cup while recognising that it does not portray all aspects of life in this country.

Fondest memory of Russia South and Central American fans invading Moscow in a riot of colour and realising we had a whole month with them in town.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Colombia fans brought colour and fun. Photograph: Mladen Antonov/AFP/Getty Images

What now for England? I learned during the tournament that Pizza Hut once dedicated an entire commercial to England’s penalties problem. How great then that a young squad with years of play ahead of them have banished that particular demon. I’m not sure if football can come home during the Euros, but I look forward to finding out.

Daniel Taylor

Match of the tournament Spain 3-3 Portugal. Everything: wonder goals, Cristiano Ronaldo’s hat-trick and so early in the competition it left the clear sense we were in for a special tournament.



Player of the tournament Luka Modric. The crowd’s reaction when he was named as the Golden Ball winner told its own story. One of those players – and they are rare – you always want on the ball.

Goal of the tournament Cristiano Ronaldo (the third) v Spain. He blew out his cheeks. He hitched up his shorts. He knew damn well the world was watching. And then he put it in the top corner, past one of the greatest goalkeepers I have ever seen. Honorary mentions to Nacho and Benjamin Pavard.

Personal highlight Seeing Russia in a new light (and yes, I know there’s another issue entirely when it’s not on its best behaviour), collecting my ticket for the final (always a privilege), beating Jamie Vardy at pool in a Nottingham Forest v Leicester City grudge match (in my head, anyway) and the little bits of spare time to look around St Petersburg and Moscow properly.

Biggest disappointment Not having time to look around properly and – this might surprise you – seeing so little football. That’s the problem when you are on the England beat: you tend to be in press conferences, writing against deadlines or mid-air (19 flights) when the other games are on. After 22 days in Russia I’d watched three live matches.

Trickiest off-field moment 1) The waitress in my hotel in Volgograd who didn’t speak a word of English and signalled that she would get a colleague to come over, then did a slit-eye gesture to show who she meant. What do you say? 2) The high-ranking FA official pointing out (with great suspicion) my Fjallraven T-shirt had a Sweden flag as its label. Five minutes before kick-off, England v Sweden.

Fondest memory of Russia How much Moscow has changed since I first came here with Leeds in 1999 and again for the 2008 Champions League final. I don’t think I’ve ever been to a city where there isn’t a single spot of litter. St Petersburg, too. In five weeks I’ve seen one homeless person. It makes me despair when I think of Manchester, Liverpool, London and the numbers on the streets back home.

What now for England? I’m torn. They were within half an hour of the final. Yet they also lost three out of seven and seem incapable of beating any of the top teams. It wasn’t arrogant to say they were in the easier half, it was factual. Euro 2020 looks inviting, with both semi-finals and the final at Wembley, but I think England have blown the best chance they will ever get.

Jorge Valdano

Match of the tournament Belgium 2-1 Brazil.

Player of the tournament Luka Modric.

Goal of the tournament The collective move on the third Belgium goal against Japan.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest Belgium’s Nacer Chadl celebrates after slotting home. Photograph: Rebecca Blackwell/AP

Personal highlight The madness provoked by Russia’s victory over Spain.

Biggest disappointment Emotionally, Argentina. Intellectually, Germany.



Trickiest off-field moment The sacking of Julen Lopetegui two days before the start.

Fondest memory of Russia Russia itself: a fascinating country.



What now for England? Complete the journey they have just begun.

Shaun Walker

Match of the tournament The match I enjoyed most was Iran v Portugal, because of the intense late drama. A 93rd-minute equaliser for Iran and then a stunning chance to win it in the 96th minute. Had Mehdi Taremi scored rather than hit the side-netting, Portugal would have been flying home and Iran would have won the group. The kind of tiny margin on which World Cup runs are decided.

Player of the tournament Luka Modric, for his own performances and for leading his Croatia team to the final. I watched Croatia’s first game, against Nigeria, and although they were largely uninspiring, even then Modric would occasionally pop up with an extraordinary 50-yard pass.

Goal of the tournament Denis Cheryshev’s strike against Croatia: a one-two with Artem Dzyuba before unleashing an unstoppable rocket from just outside the area. It was a beautiful goal by itself but a World Cup quarter-final that nobody expected Russia to be in was quite the time to score it.

Personal highlight Kieran Trippier’s free-kick. I’d been perfecting my media-tribune neutrality up to that point but couldn’t resist celebrating when that went in. And for about an hour it allowed us to believe that maybe it actually, really, genuinely could be coming home.

Biggest disappointment It was sad not to see any of the African teams qualify from the group stage. Morocco in particular were devilishly unlucky in a tough group, as were Senegal.

Will the World Cup finally change how Russia is portrayed? | Shaun Walker Read more

Trickiest off-field moment It’s amazing how covering sports tournaments as a journalist seems to end up with the unhealthiest eating regimen imaginable, due to the food available in media centres. I don’t think I ever want to see a Twix again.

Fondest memory of Russia I’ve lived in Russia for years and, while often reporting on gruesome and depressing stories, have tried to write about the more pleasant sides of life. For readers those pieces often get drowned out by all the terrible stuff, so it has been nice to watch so many people get to discover that fun, warm and exciting side that often gets hidden.

What now for England? The future looks positive, though what a shame they didn’t sneak into the final. I can’t imagine they will ever get as favourable a draw and anyway it’s hard to get very excited about anything to do with the next World Cup, given it’s in Qatar.

Jonathan Wilson

Match of the tournament Belgium 2-1 Brazil. A game that combined quality and drama won in part because of Belgium’s ability (the second goal, Thibaut Courtois’s saves), in part because of Roberto Martínez’s tactical switch to use Kevin De Bruyne as a false 9, and in part because they had the guts and resilience to hang on.

Player of the tournament Luka Modric. Nobody expected Croatia to reach the final and they could not have done so without their leader, who passed the ball more than any other member of their squad and ran further than anyone in the tournament bar his own teammate Perisic.

Goal of the tournament Nacer Chadli, Belgium v Japan. It wasn’t just the slick interplay, the pace of the break or Romelu Lukaku’s movement; it was the sense of occasion, a beautiful goal to finish off a wonderful second half.

Personal highlight The final minutes of a tight game when you’re writing a match report to be filed on the whistle are always fraught, and especially when a major shock is brewing. You can’t quite believe Germany are going out, but with 10 minutes or so to go, you tentatively write your intro. Then, on 90 minutes, South Korea have a goal ruled out for what appeared an obvious offside. You type away, wondering why they’re making such a fuss. Then, out of the corner of your eye, you realise Toni Kroos touched the ball to Kim Young-gwon and that he is therefore onside. The entire press box seems to notice at the same time. There is a moment of silence as the truth dawns – he has to give the goal and that means Germany, for the first time in 80 years, are out – then a flurry of keyboards being hammered. One of the great “Christ, this is happening …” moments.

Biggest disappointment Spain. The Julen Lopetegui situation destroyed them.

Trickiest off-field moment Trying to maintain a sense of perspective and calm while a four-year-old bounces around the compartment screaming for the first eight hours of a 22.5-hour train journey from Kazan to St Petersburg.

Fondest memory of Russia Kazan, a beautiful and welcoming city that hosted a string of brilliantly dramatic games.

What now for England? Hopefully use the experience as a basis to begin integrating all the youth champions of last year as they begin to play regular league football, while recognising the value of a sensible, practical manager and acknowledging Gareth Southgate’s tactical failings. But probably more of the same old nonsense.