[I've written about the Pinkysil, CloneFX and Easycast products in my previous instructable here, but I'll summarise it here. Note that these products are self-removing, as in they don't need a release agent, and I don't need a silicone thickening agent like Smooth-On might need. Research materials before using them.]

The Pinkysil silicone is a two part mix with a 1:1 ratio for volume, so pour equal parts and mix until it turns a light pink. It pours very thin, so simply pour it over your helmet and 'paint' it so it covers the whole surface (I wore some latex-free gloves and used my hands to smear it). Once the 'detail' coat is safe to touch (doesn't stick to your hand), you can apply the CloneFX. It goes on much thicker and works the same way, so its an equal volume mixture and layer it on about 2-4mm thick. Another thing to do it to stick on some registration keys, which are to help make sure the mold stays in the same place when inside the mothermold. I poured some Easycast into small mixing cups and attached the cured pucks onto the mold.

Once the mold is cured, take your plaster and start layering it on. I builds a small dividing wall down the middle of the helmet so the shell is easily removable, and I put the cloth on each side. Small tip, I use some clingwrap and put it between the two halves of the plaster shell to keep them separate, otherwise they stick together and defeats the purpose of the wall. Totally didn't learn that through experience, not that stupid... Once its dry, take everything off and you can remove the mold from the original master helmet. The mold can be removed 2 ways, either carefully peel off the entire mold as 1 piece (possible as the shape is fairly smooth and round, I did and it worked), or cut a jagged line up the back and peel it off (the jagged line makes sure everything lines up when you put it back in the mold).

Now we can cast it in resin. EasyCast is really easy to use, just mix it up in a 1:1 ratio and stir for 15 second or so (you should see the different coloured parts blend properly), and pour it into the silicone mold. Once poured in just keep rotating and swishing it around, getting into all the cracks and along the edges of the mask. Once it cures, keep doing thin coats until you think everything looks strong enough in certain parts. I did 3-4 coats and made sure everything was covered and the lip was fairly thick and strong before finishing it. Leave it for a couple of hours and you can remove the plastic cast, being careful not to rip the silicone mild. Mine came out fairly good, not that much needed to be cleaned up and I drilled out the eyes and certain parts, and gave it a decent sand over with some higher grits (180+).

Now you have a wearable blank helmet, time to paint and finish off the smaller pieces!