Suits in Australia

There are some good suiting options in Australia, but they’re often hard to find in a sea of some awful suits and jackets. Trying to compare the few that exist can be time consuming and confusing. I’ve tried to collate the most common and best recommendations for different budgets and degrees of enthusiasm/experience.

What you need to know

If you’re a beginner, it helps to understand some of the things that differentiate between a good suit and an average or poor one in terms of quality and construction.

Canvassing

Many guys are increasingly aware of what canvassing is, but there is plenty of misinformation out there about how to test for it and how important it is. In simple terms, the traditional way of constructing a jacket is to use a piece of material made of animal hair (but more commonly made of a blend of cheaper materials like cotton, flax and wool) which is sewn to the outer pieces of the jacket. The canvas is what provides most jackets with their shape, and the chief attraction of canvassed suits is that the canvas will mould to a degree to the wearer over time and provide a better fit. Most canvassed suits are “half canvassed”, meaning the canvas material extends down the jacket to about where the first button is and then stops. More expensive suits (and bespoke suits) include the canvas right through the entire jacket.

For a description of how to test a suit to see if it is canvassed, see: http://putthison.com/post/2817493175/chest-canvas-and-the-pinch-test-id-been

Whilst all suits used to be canvassed to an extent, modern processes led to the proliferation of “fused” suits, which do not use a canvas. These suits still require something to keep the shape of the jacket, so instead of a piece of fabric stitched to the rest of the jacket, it is instead glued to the rest of the jacket. Fused suits are generally considered inferior in terms of construction because the glue that is used can deteriorate (particularly when dry cleaned), meaning the fabric of the suit appears to “bubble” and they often provide a poorer fit because fused jackets are often stiff and drape poorly.

A fully canvassed jacket pulled apart:

BUT, it’s important to not take canvassing too seriously. Firstly, a full canvas jacket is probably superior in terms of fit and quality but costs significantly more. A full canvas also makes the jacket heavier and importantly for Australia, hotter. If you live in some of the hotter areas of Australia, a full canvassed suit is probably too warm for Summer and Spring, so you’ll get less wear out of it.

Additionally, many fused suits are great. There’s a big range in fusing quality, but some of the better ones will provide as good a fit, or better, than canvassed jackets. Fit is king. A crappy fused Roger David suit > Italian bespoke tailoring if the jacket fits better.

For more (and better) information on construction, see: http://www.styleforum.net/t/269171/canvas-and-suit-construction

Wool quality and the infamous “super” numbers

When people want to look like they understand products, but can’t be bothered to actually do their research, they look to numbers. It’s easy to get sucked into the notion that the bigger number the better. Most obviously this happens with price, but blokes are often guilty of this with other characteristics. Maybe it’s with the power of an engine on a car, the bass rating on a sound system, the age of wine or spirits, the speed of a CPU or the number of megapixels etc etc. Of course all these things are better at a very simplistic level, but anyone with a bit of knowledge in these areas knows it’s not as simple as that. With suits, this magic “mine is bigger than yours” number is the super rating on wool. Super numbers are an easy way for crappy makers to sell things to guys who don’t know better.

The super number is a measure of how fine the wool used in a suit or jacket is. The higher, the finer. But, poor wool can often be made very fine, and good wool can be woven less fine. This is why some S100 suits feel better than the S150s suit some bloke at work is telling you he picked up in Vietnam for $99. Additionally, if wool is too fine it becomes impractical for regular wear. With good wool, anything above ~S140 is verging on evening/occasion wear. S120/30 is a good sort of target for work wear. But, the bottom line is don’t worry too much about super ratings, if it feels nice, buy it.

Where a suit is made

Really, don’t worry about this. Chinese manufacturing processes have improved to such an extent that they can make suits to a very high quality. Yes, the best suits are still made in places like Italy, London, Switzerland and Japan, but no longer (was it ever?) is this a guarantee that you’re getting a superior product. Some Chinese factories make great suits at a low price.

What style/colour?

Start small, start simple. The most versatile suit is a dark navy, notch lapel with jetted pockets. This will take you to work, to dinner, to wedding and beyond. If you’ve only recently made the move to wearing a suit daily, or caring about what you wear, this may come as a shock: do not buy a black suit. Black suits are for funerals, security guards and for Year 10 formals. Ok, obviously this is just a silly clothing rule, but it exists for a reason. Black just doesn’t work with many other colours when creating an outfit. It also clashes with many skin and hair colours and overall just doesn’t look very grown-up.

So, start with navy, and then maybe a charcoal. These are very versatile colours and if you only have one or two suits, you can wear these regularly with no issue. It will look a bit strange if the only suit you ever wear to work is a gaudy pinstripe/check. More ostentatious colours and fabrics can work well, but only when you’ve covered the basics first.

For style, a notch lapel works best for most situations and 90% of Aussie men would only wear notch lapel jackets. Two buttons is the best option for pretty much everyone. The double breasted jacket comes in and out of fashion, always has to be done up and doesn’t look right on some blokes, but if it works for you then get one AFTER you’ve got the basics covered.

What are the key things I should look out for to check if a suit fits?

There are many many reasons why a suit might not fit. The only way to avoid all of these issues is to get a bespoke suit made, but there are certain things to look out for:

The most important thing is that the suit fits in the shoulders. Check that there is minimal fabric gobbling at the back of the neck, which could indicate the shoulders are too small, or too big, or just the pitch is off.

Choose a shoulder style that’s right for you and that you’re comfortable with. If you have smaller, lower shoulders, structured shoulders may look best. If you have large shoulders then a softer shoulder might suffice.

Length-wise, the jacket should ideally be half the length of your body from the top of the neck but you need a tape for this. A more simplistic rule is that the jacket should reach where your arm finishes if you make a fist. The jacket should comfortably cover your posterior.

It’s better to buy too large and spend money on alterations that it is to buy something too small which can’t be altered.

Where to buy - Australia

Off the rack - these suits are available instore in set sizes and will likely require some alterations

1) MJ Bale http://www.mjbale.com Instore or online

Photo: MJ Bale

MJB is the best beginner option in Australia. The two suits for $1k deal is a great work wardrobe starter for young blokes or upgrade for older blokes too. The cheaper suits have a white label (all the 2 for $1k options) and are half canvassed, made of Australian merino wool and come in a variety of classic colours. There’s an intermediate range of suits for 2 for $1.5k which come in slightly more adventurous patterns. Again, the MJ Bale classics suits are the best option for young blokes on a budget. My only complaints are that the lapels can be too skinny for some tastes and larger guys and that there really isn’t much of a range of fabrics beyond the standard conservative ones, but for $500 a suit these factors aren’t deal-breakers.

The more expensive grey label (aka collection label) suits are mostly made in Japan, can be half or fully canvassed, have a wider lapel and use a better quality wool. The grey label suits are great, but at ~$1300 there are definitely better value options.

2) Herringbone http://shop.herringbone.com/ Instore or online

Photo: Herringbone

Herringbone was pretty much the first player in the ongoing menswear revolution in Australia, but they’ve been through some tough times and changes including entering administration soon after the GFC, the resultant sale to German clothing conglomerate Van Laack, a change in production from Japan to China and the departure of the original co-founders including Matt Jensen (who subsequently started MJ Bale). Given these changes, it’s perhaps understandable the the quality and range at Herringbone has waxed and waned a little over the years. Still, they’re a great Australian suiting option. Go for the more traditional cut with the wider lapels. Herringbone has experimented with some super skinny lapels and odd looking peak lapels, avoid these if you are after a classic suit that will outlast trends. Prices can really vary. At full retail of $1200-1300, some of the suits look pretty overpriced. Fortunately, they go on sale semi-frequently and can come down to $600-700 at which price they’re good value.

3) TM Lewin http://www.tmlewin.com.au/ Instore and online

Photo: TM Lewin

If you’re a fan of a boxier, more structured look, then TM Lewin might be just the ticket. Previously only online, TM Lewin opened in some Myer stores and also opened a few standalone stores due to massive sales of shirts and suits to Australia. They have a good range of patterns and colours but there’s a fair bit of variation in fit. Again, avoid the fashiony skinny lapels. Prices range from $350 to $650. That’s cheap, but cheap for a reason. The suits are quite boxy, the notch on the lapels sits quite low for some tastes and the wool quality ranges. Unless you are set on the traditional English cut, I’d look to MJ Bale or others.

Made to measure (MTM) - involves starting with a set of templates and making adjustments based on measurements to provide a better fit than off-the-rack and a greater degree of flexibility/customisation. Cheaper and quicker than bespoke.

1) Patrick Johnson http://www.pjohnson.com.au/ By appointment

Photo: PJohnson

Patrick Johnson was/is a gamechanger for men’s clothing in Australia. PJ and his team of tailors introduced MTM clothing at affordable (depending on how you look at it of course) prices. The basic drill is you head to one of the stores in Sydney or Melbourne (they occasionally do a visit to other state capitals), get measured up, choose a fabric and details and wait for your commission to be made in Italy. Once it’s done you will get a fitting or two done for final alterations. PJ favours an soft, light Italian style of tailoring, but if this isn’t your thing they can provide otherwise. Pricing with MTM obviously varies plenty, but think around $1500-1800 for an entry level commission. If you prefer, upgrade to a PJ Napoli suit or jacket made in a different factory with significant hand finishing for up to $4k. A combination of quality products, savvy marketing, competitive pricing and word-of-mouth praise has made PJ the most influential Australian menswear provider.

For more info on PJ himself: http://theweekendedition.com.au/mapmagazine/patrick-johnson/

To get a better idea of the things PJ can make, check out: http://patrickjohnsontailors.tumblr.com/

2) SuitShop http://www.suitshop.com.au/ In-store in Sydney and Melbourne

Photo: SuitSupply

PJ makes great suits, but it’s out of the price range of many and Italian tailoring is a refined taste to the average Aussie male. Enter SuitShop, which is associated with and trained by PJ, but uses a Chinese factory to offer no-nonsense MTM at a lower price-point. As I wrote above, China is making some seriously nice suits at the moment, this is nothing to worry about. Suitshop has stores in Melbourne and in Sydney. SS has a large fabric selection, and various custom options. Suits start at around $750 for fused variants, half canvas are ~$950 and full canvas start at ~$1200 making SS a real option for someone looking at MJ Bale or Herringbone but after a sharper fit or some custom elements

To get a better idea of the things SuitShop can make, check out: http://suitshop.tumblr.com/

3) Oscar Hunt http://www.oscarhunt.com.au/ Instore Melbourne

A relatively new player in the Aussie menswear scene, Oscar Hunt compete directly with Suitshop for the MTM dollar. Styling wise OH seems to favour a slightly more modern look (skinnier lapels, more suppression), which may or may not be your cup of tea. Competitively priced from $850 for a suit. Personally, I’d choose SuitShip over them purely based on styling, but OH could well catch up in the near future.

Bespoke - Bespoke suits are designed entirely from scratch, using a pattern developed from a person’s measurements and is expensive and time consuming.

Photo: The Amoury

I’m not going to summarise the bespoke operators in Australia as they are all similar in terms of process and price (to an extent). Chances are if you’re looking at a bespoke commission, you’re not looking on tumblr for advice. True bespoke starts at around $2.5k and goes to infinity dollars depending in part on the deepness of your pockets and more so on your eccentricity. Some of the best bespoke operators in Australia include:

JH Cutler - http://www.cutlerbespoke.com/ - Australia’s most prestigious bespoke tailor, starting at $6,000

Zink and Sons bespoke - http://www.zinkandsons.com.au/index.html - A very old, established tailor in Sydney. For some inspiration, check their Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/zinkandsons

Some final notes

This is by no means an exhaustive list, but overall if something isn’t mentioned here there’s a reason. I haven’t included things of poor quality (Roger David, RDX, Tarocash, Zara, Politix, Saba etc etc), but also suits which are IMO too pricey compared to competing options (Canali, Zegna, Tom Ford, all of Harrolds) or only available in one place (Azzarro in Melbourne, Deerstyle in Brisbane).

Again, the main thing to remember is that fit is king. Fit should be your key consideration when buying a suit, before with construction, quality and even price (within reason). Don’t fall into the trap of trying to emulate a look you’ve seen or a person’s style you like. If you do this, what you buy probably won’t suit you or fit you, and you won’t look comfortable in what you wear. Go for what looks good on you and what you’re comfortable wearing.

Be very aware of MTM providers other than the ones I mentioned. A heap of these have sprung up in recent years, think InStitchu, Joe Black, Modern Tailor, GeorgeandKing etc. Basically, what you have here are suits made in average factories in Thailand and Vietnam where the manufacturing processes aren’t up to scratch with the best ones in Europe, or the best ones in China. Online MTM is just not worth the risk unless you have a very strange body shape and cannot afford something like SuitShop. Note how if you ever have had something made in Vietnam or Thailand, or have a friend who has, they rarely wear their suits for more than a year because they literally fall apart. In 9/10 cases, an off the rack suit that is taken for alterations will fit better, look better and last longer than online MTM or the various incarnations of crappy MTM around Australia. Don’t believe me? The internet is filled with horror stories about these places.

Finally, I haven’t just structured each retailer according to price. I really suggest that if you are new to this game, regardless of your budget, that you start with suits that are off-the-rack and relatively cheap. It takes time to work out what you like, what looks good, appreciate quality and even to decide whether in the long run you even care enough to continue buy nicer suits/clothing. If this happens, or you get fired from your new job for spending too much time on shopping sites or clothing blogs, you’ll be devastated if you just forked out $2k for a windowpane check Tom Ford-esque lapel Italian made PJ suit. Would you suggest to anyone that their first car be a Maserati? Would you suggest to anyone that their first camera be a Leica M series? Probably not, so start small and work up.

Thanks for reading, good luck, have fun and feel free to send me any suggestions or call me out on any errors I’ve made.