Photos by Jessica Remo | NJ Advance Media

In the coming of age tale of any growingly hip downtown, there’s inevitably this landmark moment — the opening of a brewpub.

Check that off the list for adorable downtown Somerville with the long-awaited opening of Village Brewing in the former Somerville Antiques Space.

The 17,000-square-foot project was two years in the making and opened last week.

Don't Edit

Village Brewing's own brews ... coming soon.

Don't Edit

What to drink

Though they’re a brewery, they’re awaiting the arrival of their ABC brewing license in the coming weeks.

In the meantime, though, there's a nice N.J. craft selection on tap. I liked the Drama Llama – a New England IPA from Cypress Brewing Co. in Edison — which is also the most fun-to-say beer on the menu.

Don't Edit

You can get a flight of four beers, served in this neat spatula holder, for $10.

Don't Edit

This fried cauliflower dish with golden raisins and basil raita was yum-o.

Don't Edit

Don't Edit

What to eat

I expected buffalo wings and assorted pub food, but the bites here are surprisingly refined for a brewpub.

For apps, I loved the crispy curried cauliflower ($8) with sweet and sour red cabbage, gingered raisins, basil raita (think Indian tzatziki) and mint.

There's a joke about how growing older means cauliflower has replaced all the foods you love, but I'd swap junk food for this dish again and again.

Don't Edit

The burrata toast, elevating that little radish to new heights.

Don't Edit

Also perfect was the burrata toast ($10) on grilled sourdough with balsamic and basil oil, topped with arugula, radicchio and radish.

I would most definitely come back for both dishes and a few drinks any night of the week.

Don't Edit

Don't Edit

For entrees, the burger with house-cured bacon and IPA cheddar ($16) was excellent and came with fries and a pool of ketchup. (Bless you guys. Signed, this ketchup-lover who always has to ask for more.)

Don't Edit

Don't Edit

The pan-seared crab cake with smoked onion cream sauce, citrus vinaigrette, watercress and radish salad. ($14)

Don't Edit

The braised pork belly ($14) with a nicely sweet parsnip puree.

Don't Edit

For dessert, try the Village Brew Pub S'more ($8), which had a just-fudgy-enough brownie and a really nice salted caramel drizzle. It could only be improved with a bit of vanilla ice cream, please.

Don't Edit

Don't Edit

The service

There were several hiccups, but I don't even care because 1) they just opened, and 2) our awesome bartender Allie made up for them all — taking a not-spicy-enough cocktail off our bill and remaking a perfectly spiced version, checking repeatedly on a missing dish, serving us two free shots she concocted that were an absolute treat (put that shot on the menu, Allie!), and even answering all my weird questions while the place got busier and busier.

Don't Edit

Don't Edit

Allie's version of the hot fire margarita ($12) did, indeed, bring the hot fire -- made with Mi Campo tequila, mango puree, agave nectar, Golden Citrus IPA, lime juice, hot sauce, chili bitters.

Don't Edit

The space

It's hard to make 17,000 square feet not feel giant, and there’s probably a bit of work to be done that could make it warmer and less cafeteria-like.

I thoroughly enjoyed the clever sayings painted on the walls.

I used to love the thrill of perusing the wares at Somerville Antiques, but you can barely even tell that’s what was here, save for the stairway in the middle that takes you down to the second floor. (There were some real interesting treasures down there, let me tell you.) Eventually that area will be an event space, but currently “it looks like an episode of 'Law & Order SVU,'” according to Allie.

Don't Edit

A before shot.

Don't Edit

Don't Edit

Don't Edit

Don't Edit

Hours

Village Brewing is only open for dinner currently, with doors opening at 4 p.m. and the kitchen open at 5 p.m. Lunch is coming soon.

Don't Edit

Don't Edit

The vibe

It was about 6 p.m. Wednesday and the place was a total mix of younger folks at the bar, groups of co-workers and a few families dining at the tables in the back. It was also packed, which impressed me given it was the kind of beautiful night that begs folks to pick an eatery with outdoor seating.

Don't Edit

Don't Edit

Location

34 W. Main St., Somerville, 908-333-2990, villagebrewing.com.

Don't Edit

Don't Edit

Don't Edit

Read more

This N.J. restaurant with the best Manhattan views is finally back — after shellfish almost doomed it

The 29 new N.J. restaurants you need to try this spring

The coolest dining experience in N.J. right now is from a 'Top Chef' contestant inside a strip mall

Don't Edit

Jessica Remo may be reached at jremo@njadvancemedia.com. Follow her on Twitter@JessicaRemoNJ. Find NJ.com on Facebook. Get the latest updates right in your inbox. Subscribe to NJ.com's newsletters.