Viana do Castelo, Costa Verde

The seaside town of Viana do Castelo, with its opulent Manueline and baroque buildings, tends to attract Portuguese rather than foreign tourists. But it's not just the architecture and clientele that are different from more visited parts of Portugal; the weather is somewhat less reliable too (it's not called the Green Coast for nothing). But if you're happy to take a chance on the climate, you'll be rewarded with beautiful empty beaches and some of Portugal's finest cuisine. Like its Spanish neighbour Galicia, the Costa Verde is known for seafood – eels, and Minho trout and salmon, are often on the menu. A great place to try seafood is Tasquinha da Linda a tiny restaurant that serves oysters and mussels as well as more adventurous options such as barnacles and octopus.

Dom Luis I Bridge, Porto

Walking across the Luis I bridge over the Douro has to rate highly on the list of unmissable Portuguese experiences. Linking the old town of Porto with Vila Nova de Gaia, the graceful iron structure, built by one of Gustav Eiffel's students, was the longest arch bridge in the world when it opened in 1886. If you have a head for heights you can take the funicular up to the upper level, 50m above the water, for extraordinary views of Porto's historic Cais da Ribeira neighbourhood and up the river.

Casa da Música, Porto

Appealing to architecture fans and music lovers alike, Porto's Casa da Música has become one of the city's best-loved icons since opening in 2005. Designed by Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas, its sharp angles and uncompromisingly modern design make a bold statement in a city known for its conservatism – a boldness which is matched by the adventurous programme of concerts and recitals encompassing everything from classical and jazz to fado and electronic music. There's a great programme of educational workshops for musicians, a monthly club night and a cool cafe.

• Avenida da Boavista 604-610, casadamusica.com

Gulbenkian Museum, Lisbon

One of Europe's great unsung galleries, Lisbon's Gulbenkian is home to the private collection of Armenian oil magnate Calouste Gulbenkian, who donated his magnificent haul of European and Asian art to his adopted country on his death in 1955. Treasures include a gold Egyptian mask, rare Chinese porcelain, Persian tapestries and works by Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck and Renoir. The beautifully landscaped gardens of the museum are worth a visit in their own right, and in the summer the amphitheatre hosts open-air film and music events.

• museu.gulbenkian.pt

Parque das Nacoes, Lisbon

Lisbon's newest neighbourhood was created from scratch for the Expo 98 world fair. With its breezy oceanfront setting and futuristic architecture, it's a refreshing contrast to the narrow streets and ornate buildings of the centre. Locals come for weekend strolls along the waterfront promenade, great seafood restaurants and glorious views of the Vasco da Gama bridge which spans the Tejo (Tagus) and is the longest in Europe. The Oceanarium is one of the world's great aquariums, built around a tank the size of four Olympic swimming pools, with levels allowing the sealife to be viewed from above and below.

• portaldasnacoes.pt

Sintra, near Lisbon

The poet Byron described the hilltop town of Sintra as a "glorious Eden". Today it's one of the most popular day-trip destinations from Lisbon but, despite the coach parties, it holds on to its eccentric charm and otherworldliness. It was once a summer retreat for Portuguese aristocracy, and the exuberant palaces they built, such as the Palácio Nacional de Pena with its fairytale turrets and candy-coloured walls, and the Palácio Nacional de Sintra, still stand. Allow time to wander the streets of the atmospheric old town with its colourful mansions and exuberant foliage. Sintra is about 40 minutes by train from Rossio station in Lisbon.

Evora, Alentejo

A well-kept secret it isn't, but a visit to Evora will be one of the highlights of any trip to Portugal. A walk around this Unesco-protected walled city with its Roman temple, Moorish alleyways and medieval churches and palaces, is a walk through Portugal's turbulent history. But it's not all historic sights; the lively student population stops things from becoming too stuffy. Try out Alentejan specialities at the Botequim da Mouraria (Rua da Mouraria 16), an intimate place with just a dozen stools at the bar where the owner Domingos serves up tapas-style delicacies such as porco preto (black pork), melted cheese with herbs, wild mushrooms, and scrambled eggs with asparagus. No reservations are taken but it's worth the wait for a seat.

Guimarães, Norte

It's fair to say that few people outside Portugal had heard of Guimarães until it was nominated European Capital of Culture for 2012. But this small city made the most of its year in the international spotlight, opening a major new arts space in an old textile factory, the Centre for Art and Architecture, and putting on an innovative programme of events. Though it's most famous for its perfectly preserved medieval centre, Guimarães is no museum piece. A sizable student population keeps things lively, with bars and restaurants buzzing into the small hours.

• centroaaa.org

Fado ao Centro, Coimbra

Most tourists' introduction to fado, the melancholy musical style unique to Portugal, will be via an overpriced dinner show in Lisbon. A far more intimate and authentic experience can be had in the city of Coimbra, 200km north of Lisbon. It has its own fado tradition, originating at its prestigious university, when male students would serenade their sweethearts. Fado ao Centro is a cultural institution devoted to keeping this tradition alive and runs nightly shows, which are accompanied by an explanation of the history of the art form and a free glass of port. The musicians are generally top-class and at €10, it's a bargain.

• +351 239 837060, fadoaocentro.com

Ria Formosa natural park, Algarve

The Ria Formosa offers the perfect antidote to the crowded beaches of the Algarve. Covering 50km of prime coastline, it's a wildlife haven made up of islands, lagoons, sand dunes, mudflats and marshes. It's a beguiling place, whether you're into birdwatching, hiking or just basking on deserted beaches. Pick up a walking trail from the visitor centre and be sure to stop off at the kennels to visit the Portuguese water dogs. These shaggy, webbed-footed mutts were once the sheepdogs of the sea, helping fishermen by rounding up the fish into their nets. The best base for visiting the park is the little seaside town of Cabanas de Tavira.

• formosamar.com

Sagres Point, Algarve

Stand on the cliffs at Cabo de São Vicente watching the sun sink into the ocean and it's easy to understand why ancient mariners believed this place to be the end of the world. Mainland Europe's most south-westerly tip was a place of pilgrimage for centuries and, with its endless Atlantic vistas, still exerts a magnetic pull today. The nearby town of Sagres was where Prince Henry set up his school of navigation in the 1450s, gathering the world's finest astronomers, geographers and cartographers to study the seas and stars. Explorers Vasco da Gama and Ferdinand Magellan are believed to have studied here before they set off on their voyages to the New World. The fortress on the headland includes a huge circular pebble compass, 43m in diameter, and an atmospheric 15th century chapel.

Monsaraz, Alentejo

Portugal has no shortage of enticing hilltop towns but perhaps one of the most magical is tiny walled Monsaraz. Rising up above the plains that run east to Spain, it was originally fortified by the Knights Templar. Visitors enjoy wandering between the medieval white-washed houses, several of which are now charming guesthouses, and climbing up to the battlements of the castle for views across sun-baked fields towards the Guadiana river – the border with Spain – and the Alqueva dam, which forms one of Europe's largest manmade lakes, perfect for swimming, sailing or canoeing.

• golisbon.com/portugal/cities/monsaraz

Serra da Estrela, Centro



Serra da Estrela means "mountains of the stars", an apt description as the highest peaks on mainland Portugal, almost 2,000m above sea level, are in this range in the east of the country. It's a place of rugged beauty, with limestone peaks, gorges, forests of black oak and chestnut trees, waterfalls and mountain streams. There are plenty of marked trails for hikers and some challenging ascents for experienced climbers. But there are also plenty of cosy mountain retreats, such as Casas da Lapa and Casa das Penhas Douradas for hearty food and fresh mountain air (i-escape.com/portugal/boutique-hotels).

• rt-serradaestrela.pt

Feira de Barcelos Minho,

Minho province, north of Porto, is a green and rolling land of valleys and small market towns where centuries-old traditions live on. For a taste of rural life at its most vibrant visit the riverside town of Barcelos on a Thursday for its weekly market. Farmers and smallholders come from miles around to sell their produce and stalls sell everything from farm equipment to handicrafts including basketware, wooden toys and the distinctive local pottery, louça de Barcelos. Summer also sees festas (country fairs) in Barcelos and surrounding towns and villages.

• cm-barcelos.pt

Santo André, Alentejo

The town of Vila Nova de Santo André was built in the 1980s to house petrochemicals workers from Sines. Don't let that put you off though: just a mile away is a glorious stretch of fine-sand beaches in the unspoilt surroundings of the Alentejo and Costa Vicentina natural park. There are walking trails among the dunes, several beaches perfect for surfing and windsurfing, and two lagoons offering sheltered sand and warmer water for the less active. Hotel Vila Park, on the edge of the park has doubles from €110 in summer; children under 10 stay and eat free when sharing with two adults.