Yumi’s new Cathedral Hill location is now open inside the former Fabulous Fern’s location. It’s the first in a two-part expansion for the Excelsior-based Japanese restaurant. Another new location is slated for opening soon at Southdale Center. What began as a tiny spot in the western Twin Cities suburb of Excelsior from owners Aaron Switz and Mikael Asp, who have also worked with the local mini-chain Agra Culture.

In addition to the hard-to-eat-in-just-one-bite sushi rolls, Yumi serves a variety of other Japanese dishes, and there is a full bar. Cocktails have a Japanese bent with sochu standing in for other spirits and an Old Fashioned made with a rare Japanese whisky.

The interior is hardly recognizable after a total transformation from the dated decor and oddball bar layout to long, clean lines that make great use of large windows that overlook Selby Avenue. The entrance is from the large parking lot, and an open kitchen overlooks several tables for access to watching the chefs create dishes.

Yumi Cathedral Hill is open for dinner seven days a week.