Spain’s “love affair with pork” (Jamón, jamón: Spanish PM ridiculed for mixing up his cured hams, 5 October) indeed dates back a long time, but this history isn’t all tapas and a nice rioja. During the 16th and 17th centuries, eating pork could be a matter of life and death. The Spanish Inquisition viewed diet as a good indication of religious belief; refusing pork was considered prima facie evidence of Jewish or Muslim identity. The detailed records of the Holy Office note many sad cases of individuals desperately trying to explain away why they declined a nice piece of ham offered by a neighbour by citing their delicate stomach or the fact that they’d already had dinner. Pedro Sánchez, the prime minister, may be under attack for his “serious error” of confusing jamón serrano with jamón ibérico, but it’s worth recalling that in past centuries much more than political reputation could be at stake when it came to pork.

Professor Rebecca Earle

University of Warwick

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