The two things I’m about to say aren’t food-writer hyper­bole: (1) Justin Severino is the most underrated chef in America. (2) His new restaurant serves the best Spanish food I’ve had outside San Sebastián. I realize all this halfway through my meal at Morcilla, his love letter to the pintxos-eating, cider-drinking, fiercely independent Basque region of northern Spain. In front of me is a refreshing gin and tonic poured with house-made tonic and garnished with juniper berries and citrus, a foamy glass of Trabanco cider (yes, that’s a second drink, but it was dispensed from a two-foot-tall custom tap shaped like an arm!), and an army of small plates that I can’t keep my hands from.





1 / 8 Chevron Chevron Goat Cheese Croquettes with Spiced Membrillo We’ll be spreading membrillo (quince paste) inside bread for grilled cheese from now on. This recipe is from Morcilla , one of the Hot 10, America's Best New Restaurants 2016 View Recipe

I started with the cured meats because Severino is a charcuterie god. No matter what’s on the menu—chorizo, morcilla, cecina—it will probably be unforgettable. Even the chef’s classic egg tortilla, a dish by which all Spanish restaurants should be judged, comes out firm but still creamy on the inside.