Natalie Portman had the names of female directors embroidered into her Dior cape, while documentarian Waad al-Kateab wore an Arabic poem on her dress

Actor Natalie Portman and director Waad al-Kateab both used embroidery to make a statement on the Oscars red carpet this year.

Al-Kateab, the narrator and director of For Sama, a film tracking her life during war in Syria, embroidered the skirt of her dress with an Arabic poem. It translates into English as: “we dared to dream and we will not regret dignity”.

For Sama (@forsamafilm) If you noticed the embroidery on @waadalkateab’s dress, you’ll be interested to know that it’s an Arabic poem that translates as “we dared to dream and we will not regret dignity” #oscars #redcarpet #redcarpetfashion #oscars2020 #waadalkateab #forsama pic.twitter.com/XzLPaZbgUF

In another year in which no women were nominated for best director, despite a promising pool of female talent, Portman had a list of overlooked names embroidered along the trim of her black Dior cape. “I wanted to recognise the women who were not recognised for their incredible work this year in my subtle way,” she said, in a red carpet interview. Two years ago, when Portman presented the award for best director at the Oscars, her pointed reference on stage to “the all-male nominees” went viral.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest A closeup of Portman’s embroidered Dior cape. Photograph: Robyn Beck/AFP via Getty Images

The female directors named on her cape included Hustlers director Lorene Scafaria, Greta Gerwig (Little Women), Mati Diop (Atlantics), Marielle Heller (A Beautiful Day in the Neighborhood), Melina Matsoukas (Queen & Slim), Alma Har’el (Honey Boy), Céline Sciamma (Portrait of a Lady on Fire) and Lulu Wang (The Farewell). Wang was a surprise winner for best picture at the Spirit awards on Saturday.

Costume designer Sandy Powell has also let her clothes do the talking this awards season, wearing a calico suit covered with Hollywood stars’ signatures, which she will auction off after awards season to help preserve the cottage owned by her late friend Derek Jarman. Spike Lee also made poignant use of his clothes on the Oscars red carpet, wearing a purple Gucci suit with the “24” on its lapels, in honour of the late basketball star Kobe Bryant’s number on the court.