No, wait: fish heads are a delicacy in many other countries, so instead of binning yours, consider turning it into a soup or this Redzepi-inspired taco

Like many foods that we think of as rubbish, fish heads are seen as a delicacy in many other countries. Asian and southern European friends have told me how their families would fight over their favourite part of the head, including the jowl, cheek, lips and even the eyeballs, all of which are edible, and are savoured for their flavour and gelatinous, satisfying texture.

A whole roast fish head, flavoured with spices or garlic and bay or rosemary, makes a grand centrepiece for any table, and is perfect for a dinner party. Enjoy a small fish head between two or cook one that’s large enough (about 1kg) to feed a family. Another way you can cook a fish head is by boiling it into a soup, stock or curry, but remove the gills first, because they have a very strong flavour. Any fishmonger will do this for you.

When buying fish, even the head, it’s important to think about the sustainability of the species and fishing method. So ask where it’s from and how it was caught, and check it’s deemed safe to eat by the Marine Conservation Society’s Good Fish Guide. And, where possible, buy line-caught fish from day boats and small inshore fisheries.

Fish head tacos with gooseberry salsa

This dish is inspired by René Redzepi’s Noma in Copenhagen, where I did a short internship last year. One of his most thought-provoking dishes, considering the level of cuisine there, was a fish head taco. I was thrilled to see one of the best restaurants in the world serving such a humble, often wasted ingredient with such care and flavour. This is a really festive dish that works very well served family-style: perfect for a dinner party or special event.

Serves 4

1 x 700-900g fish head, washed and gills removed – I used hake

Olive oil

Sea salt

3 garlic cloves

1 bay leaf

For the salsa

50g kohlrabi, finely diced

50g gooseberries, cut in quarters

1 small handful dill fronds (optional), roughly chopped

4 coriander stalks, finely chopped

Corn tortillas, lime, coriander, chilli sauce, to serve

Put the fish head on an oven tray and drizzle with olive oil. Season generously with salt and pop a the garlic and bay leaf underneath. Roast at 210C (190C fan)/410F/gas 6½ for 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Meanwhile, mix together all the salsa ingredients.

Serve the fish head whole at the table for people to help themselves to fill warm tortillas, with the salsa, lime, coriander and chilli sauce on the side.

The Guardian aims to publish recipes for sustainable fish. For ratings in your region, check: UK; Australia; US.