Lines are being drawn on the foie gras scene; as of July this popular delicacy is slated to be banned in California and chefs are having their last fattened hurrah.

For a while in 2003, after some of the violence and intimidation surrounding the use of this product, many restaurants took it off the menu. There was a time where it was more the exception than the rule to see it there. Activists also picketed high-profile restaurants who had it on their menu; instead of fighting, restaurants acquiesced.

Then in 2004 the California legislature banned the force feeding of ducks in the state and the product produced in that way, effective in July 2012.

Lately, however, it seems more and more restaurants —from the high end to the more moderate — have brought back foie gras. I’ve seen it at such diverse places as Angele in Napa, Farallon in Union Square, Baker and Banker in Pacific Heights, and Willi’s Wine Bar in Santa Rosa, where one of the signature dishes is foie gras poppers. I guess there’s strength in numbers.

In fact Russell Jackson, who owns Lafitte on Pier 5 on the Embarcadero, is one of the most vocal. He’s been holding FU Foie Gras rEvolution dinners monthly: five course foie gras dinners ($89). The next one is February 19 and he continues to hold them monthly through July. He also sells foie gras t-shirts, offers potted foie gras for sale, and features an online petition to repeal the law.

In Oakland at Bay Wolf, Michael Wild is presenting a Farewell to Foie Gras dinner on Sunday February 26, and he plans to repeat the menu in April. Wild is the king of duck and it’s the centerpiece of the menu at the restaurant.

The menu consists of Gougere with duck liver flan; salt and pepper-cured foie gras salad with escarole, walnuts and caramelized apples; foie gras ravioli with double duck consomme; and foie gras-stuffed duck breast with peas, greens and fava beans.

Then late yesterday afternoon we got word from Ken Frank at La Toque in Napa about an event he’s hosting at his restaurant of February 27 to raise awareness and funds to fight the upcoming foie gras ban. He’s a member of a new group called CHEFS (Coalition for Humane and Ethical Farming Standards). The chefs involved are working to bring the issue to the public.

It will be a $200 a person dinner ($100 will go to the cause; if interested call (707) 257-5157) featuring six chefs who will each prepare a foie gras course. Frank says six chefs have confirmed and that more will likely come on board.

So far the kitchen will be populated with Roland Passot of La Folie; Victar Scargle of Bardessono in Yountville; Patrick Kelly of Angele in Napa; Mark Dommen of One Market and Christopher Kostow of the Meadowood Restaurant.

In the months to come I’m sure we’ll hear much more from advocates on both sides of the issue.