This entire project i know for sure works in 95 and newer Geo and Chevy metros

side notes for those with 94 and older model years without airbag go to the end of this thread post and i have information on what servo and vss might work for you, and read carefully before you attempt the cruise install. I think it will most likely work for you but because i just did it on a 98 you have to know what kind of vss your older metro has and get the correct matching cruise servo. My research on that is at the very end of this tread post

Here is what you need.

pink

(sorry no pink color on this forum)

blue

green wire

brake clutch shut off

RED and white striped wire

SO THAT'S ALL FOLKS THE CRUISE WORKS

If you have a 94 or older metro or swift and want to add a chevy truck cruise servo read this before starting! : model years without airbag[/b]. You might need a different model servo. I think you need servo model 25074400 A from a 88 -91 chevy full size truck. That servo works with a pulse to ground vss 4000ppm signal., but because i did not test it im not guaranteeing it will work. but from the little research I did below I think it will work. What got me into installing servos from these chevy trucks was my first install of cruise into my 88 chevy s10 pick up truck. That needed the pulse to ground type, and since i first bought the wrong kind, i ended up having the extra servo, model PD 251400761D , which ended up being a perfect match for my metro.



What i found is that the 1991 tracker is listed as having pulse frame to ground signal (see below where i explain vss signal types). I therefore think some older metros are the same system as the older trackers and sidekicks. One thread states the "91 MPI shows Yellow vss wire & pulses to frame ground. the 96 shows pairs (yellow and yellow/red) or Yellow and Yellow/black. do therefore there are differences between the 91 and the 96. In another forum you can see a 91 tracker speedometer gauge cluster taken apart and there you see in the 91 it is a magnetically generated 4000ppm signal and it says '91 trackers vss are 4000ppm' my guess ithe geo metros are similar. 4000ppm is is the magic number that the servos from chevy truck like. That is why my 98 geo cruise runs perfectly at any speed over 25 mph. Therefore logically if you can follow this then the older servo that is pulse frame to ground will work with the 91 geos if the geos are like the trackers. So you can then try servo model 25074400 A from a 88 -91 chevy full size truck. if anyone else knows more about those vss signals in older metros, please add comments . It hard to find out because in the late 1980s and early 90’s all vehicles from all makers were transitioned away from speedometer cables (that have been used since the 1930s) into vss electronically controlled speedometers and obd1 and obdII were all transitioning and also antilock braking and cruise control and other functions were all dependent on vss signals. So there were a few different methods to generate a vss signal from the speedometer cable with magnetic or optical sensors and or generate the signal in the transmission or some other way. so VSS signals types vary in 80s and early 90s. My guess is that if you have a vehicle with an old fashioned speedometer cable which you can tell by crawling under the car, you might have pulse to ground vss signal . so to know if your signal will work with a server you need to know more than just the pulses per mile of the signal (PPM). In my chevy s10 install, I ended up with an 88 servo from a k1500 and it did work in my 88 chevy s10, however my optically generated vss in the s10 is sort of unique in that it is only 2000ppm . Because the the 88 servo from the k1500 is made 4000ppm signal, my cruise in my s10 only is able to operate at speeds 50mph and above. (this is because the servo thinks the car is going 1/2 the speed) If you get everything matched perfectly with these chevy servos and vss signals then your cruise will work at any speed above 25mph. But still my s10 cruise does work because the match of both the servo and my vss signal where i spliced from the pcm wire being pulse to ground type signals. that is good enough for me on the s10.



As explained in the very first post of this thread, what worked out great in my geo metro cruise install is that the mistakenly non matching servo from my first attempt at installing cruise in my s10 ended being the perfect match for the 98 geo. The Metro is a 4000ppm signal. I did many attempts at trying to get this servo to work in my s10 attempts, in the s10 struck I tried taking vss signal from behind the guage cluster and also by the pcm .they were different types of signals in that truck but none of them worked with that servo. That optical generated strange vss signal in the s10 just was not made to work with the 92 servo. but it is worth it to see that you might end up trying taking the vss from different places if you have trouble in your instal of cruise. If your interested you see my process of discovery and trials in attempting the instal on my s10 here is the link to the forum thread. It has a happy ending.



finally regarding vss and figuring out what kind of signal your older than 95 metro has, the color in your vss wire might be the key to know what servo it will work with , The only the difference between the two chevy servos i pulled was the color of the vss wire going into them, the 92 servo was was red and white (like what i connected in this geo metro install--see below) the 88 servo was brown and white. All the other color wires for the set and resume and brake/cancel are the same between the two servos. So I guess chevy changed to a red and white after it got rid of pulse to ground, red seems to me to signal a positive positive signal. I think the wire colors probably also changed on the vss wires for different year metros. my research below seems to indicate that. Maybe someone knows if in 94 and older the vss generated behind the steering wheel and what color the wire is and what pin on the the ecm it goes to? So if you have an older geo then look at your wires and either do research or just test it out with the older servo and give it a shot. If was doing this with an older than 95 metro I would be sure to keep my receipt from the you pull it junk yard. I have a 90% feeling the older servo would work with the 91 geo metro. I think in another Geo metro forum i read that in chevy sprints, swifts, and metros had a few transitions in their gauge and speedometer set up since the late 1980s. : model years without airbag[/b]. You might need a different model servo. I think you need servo model 25074400 A from a 88 -91 chevy full size truck. That servo works with a pulse to ground vss 4000ppm signal., but because i did not test it im not guaranteeing it will work. but from the little research I did below I think it will work. What got me into installing servos from these chevy trucks was my first install of cruise into my 88 chevy s10 pick up truck. That needed the pulse to ground type, and since i first bought the wrong kind, i ended up having the extra servo, model PD 251400761D , which ended up being a perfect match for my metro.What i found is that the 1991 tracker is listed as having pulse frame to ground signal (see below where i explain vss signal types). I therefore think some older metros are the same system as the older trackers and sidekicks. One thread states thedo therefore there are differences between the 91 and the 96. In another forum you can see a 91 tracker speedometer gauge cluster taken apart and there you see in the 91 it is a magnetically generated 4000ppm signal and it saysmy guess ithe geo metros are similar. 4000ppm is is the magic number that the servos from chevy truck like. That is why my 98 geo cruise runs perfectly at any speed over 25 mph. Therefore logically if you can follow this then the older servo that is pulse frame to ground will work with the 91 geos if the geos are like the trackers. So you can then tryIt hard to find out because in the late 1980s and early 90’s all vehicles from all makers were transitioned away from speedometer cables (that have been used since the 1930s) into vss electronically controlled speedometers and obd1 and obdII were all transitioning and also antilock braking and cruise control and other functions were all dependent on vss signals. So there were a few different methods to generate a vss signal from the speedometer cable with magnetic or optical sensors and or generate the signal in the transmission or some other way. so VSS signals types vary in 80s and early 90s. My guess is that if you have a vehicle with an old fashioned speedometer cable which you can tell by crawling under the car, you might have. so to know if your signal will work with a server you need to know more than just the pulses per mile of the signal (PPM). In my chevy s10 install, I ended up with an 88 servo from a k1500 and it did work in my 88 chevy s10, however my optically generated vss in the s10 is sort of unique in that it is only 2000ppm . Because the the 88 servo from the k1500 is made 4000ppm signal, my cruise in my s10 only is able to operate at speeds 50mph and above. (this is because the servo thinks the car is going 1/2 the speed) If you get everything matched perfectly with these chevy servos and vss signals then your cruise will work at any speed above 25mph. But still my s10 cruise does work because the match of both the servo and my vss signal where i spliced from the pcm wire being pulse to ground type signals. that is good enough for me on the s10.As explained in the very first post of this thread, what worked out great in my geo metro cruise install is that the mistakenly non matching servo from my first attempt at installing cruise in my s10 ended being the perfect match for the 98 geo. The Metro is a 4000ppm signal. I did many attempts at trying to get this servo to work in my s10 attempts, in the s10 struck I tried taking vss signal from behind the guage cluster and also by the pcm .they were different types of signals in that truck but none of them worked with that servo. That optical generated strange vss signal in the s10 just was not made to work with the 92 servo. but it is worth it to see that you might end up trying taking the vss from different places if you have trouble in your instal of cruise. If your interested you see my process of discovery and trials in attempting the instal on my s10 here is the link to the forum thread. It has a happy ending. http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f135/adding-cruise-control-from-junk-yard-truck-or-gm-car-840610/ Also as you can see in suzukitom's comment a few posts up, the Chevy s10s the 1st generation only cruise option from factory was a terrible vacuum driven kind that alway broke on people, so for people with s10 trucks a solid state cruise or aftermarket systms is the only way to get cruise to reliably work. for me 50mph and above working cruise is great to have on that old truck.finally regarding vss and figuring out what kind of signal your older than 95 metro has,, The only the difference between the two chevy servos i pulled was the color of the vss wire going into them, the 92 servo was was red and white (like what i connected in this geo metro install--see below) the 88 servo was brown and white. All the other color wires for the set and resume and brake/cancel are the same between the two servos. So I guess chevy changed to a red and white after it got rid of pulse to ground, red seems to me to signal a positive positive signal. I think the wire colors probably also changed on the vss wires for different year metros. my research below seems to indicate that.So if you have an older geo then look at your wires and either do research or just test it out with the older servo and give it a shot. If was doing this with an older than 95 metro I would be sure to keep my receipt from the you pull it junk yard. I have a 90% feeling the older servo would work with the 91 geo metro. I think in another Geo metro forum i read that in chevy sprints, swifts, and metros had a few transitions in their gauge and speedometer set up since the late 1980s.

Even though it looks like a lot of steps, if you follow the instructions below it is not too hard an install cruise for under $40 using early 90's chevy truck servo and stalk switch from vitara, tracker, or sidekick especially if you have a little wiring and experience in these things. It not as complicated as it looks.I try to be detailed and accurate, so you will not make the same mistakes I did until i figured it all out. You probably need to have a little experience in basic wiring, (cutting and soldering wires together) and some patience to do this. Its not too hard but does take a little skill and it does pay off in the end. The cruise works so smoothly, and i like the location and feel of the stalk switch, more intuitive and better than other cars i have had with bottoms one the steering wheel.if you have an older than 95 Geo metro or swift without airbag you cannot add that stalk switch, but not to worry you can still likely add cruise and it might be even simpler, but see below for details that you need to know what kind of vss you are using to know what model servo to pull. If you have older than 95 or just do not want the stalk the controls for cruise are still easy to add by just using momentary switches (see pic below) and add them to your dash where they will be in reach. For example a two directional momentary toggle switch costs only like $5 and will work perfectly for set and resume/acel functions. This is the type springed switch that automatically goes back to off when pressed (monetary) and can control two functions depending on what direction you press it. So it will work in place of the stalk and pressing switch in one direction is “set” and in the other direction is “resume/accel”.(most people will sire the switch to be set for when you move the switch to the left or down, and resume/acel for right or up -- up down left or right of course depend on how you want to mount the switch, vertically or horizontally) and you can add another momentary button or toggle for a cancel function. I have a paragraph on how to do this for those not using a stalk switch. Of course for anyone with 1995 models and above you have the airbag, and therefore you can pull the newer steering stalk with cruise functions from a donor vehicle and it will be compatible. my donor for parts were an 01 and 04 chevy trackers you just need one doner car but i made mistakes. Suzuki esteems and sidekicks with cruise can also work., it does not matter if you have a sedan or 2door or a 1.0 or a 1.3 engine. the cruise is the same set up.first just to help people understand the install here is an explanation of "normally closed" and "normally open" switches. understanding these terms explained in the first few sentences of this website will help. https://www.theautomationstore.com/electrical-contacts-normally-open-and-normally-closed-contacts/ [/u](all the pictures follow this list instead of interrupting the flow)for 95 to 01 metros you will need the cruise servo model number 6-262 VIN Z . the sticker on it says PD 25140076 D. If you go to junk yard when you pull it. The model trucks you pull from are popular so it is easy to find a servo. You need to get it from a 1992 or 1993 chevy and GMC model suburbans, k1500s, k2500, k3500, or c1500, c2500, c3500 pick up trucks. Make sure it is the model with pd 25140076 D on it, or at least make sure it has the red and white strip vss colored wire on it and not brown and white stripe vss. Be sure to take the plug and a few inches of the wires going into it and the entire cable. Of course the plug will be in it. If you buy on ebay make sure you ask for the plug and make sure you have it because that will make it much easier to wire. Otherwise you will have to solder to the pins. I paid only $20 from a junk yard. if you have an older than 95 read the note in green text color at the end of this post where i explain what i know about servo types and instead of the model number above you might need servo model 25074400 A from a 88 -91 chevy full size truck that will have one less wire in its harness. and the the brown and white stripe is the color of the vss wire. There is no white wire on it -- but read the end of this post where i explain that install.from donor car, chevy tracker, or suzuki vitara or suzuki esteem with cruise will fit. Your most likely to see cruise on the trackers and grand vitara from the early 2000 years. Theis an awesome fit for the 95 and above below metros it is in the first picture of this post. You need to get the stalk and the small circuit board attached to it and also pull all the longer wires attached to the circuit boards. This cost you $20 or less from junk yard. You will install this in your steering wheel. So at the junk yard you should take apart the housing from the donor vehicle so as that you remove the salk and circuit board from the housing and not take the light stalk switch and whole thing, just take the cruise wiper stalk and board (see pic below). Also when you pull this keep as long as possible the wires connected to it. Even the full length wires you do not use are good wires to use for other parts of the build.OR if no using a stalk because you have a pre 95 or can not find a stalk or feel less electrically inclined. then get the, which are simpler to install. you can choose to fully operate your cruise by using a $3-$5 two pole momentary switch. For example this kinds of switch. https://www.amazon.com/Podoy-Momentary-Switch-Toggle-Position/dp/B013OZY16G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1529436838&sr=8-5&keywords=momentary+toggle+switch&dpID=41SLvGkrANL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch and if you get a momentary toggle switch be careful chinese sellers do not know english and sometimes mislabel their latching locking switches as momentary. I have bought switches on ebay from china described as momentary that were not momentary but locking. Make sure it is spring loaded and momentary.Of course stalk switch that looks nicer or another option is simply to buy aftermarket cruise switches that are really just the same as momentary switches. They sell them on ebay for not too much money. I think made by audiovox.. You will need to pull a brake switch that has 4 wires coming from it (for cruise and brake lights) from a geo chevy tracker or Suzuki vitara, esteem, or sidekick with cruise. (actually you should pull two of these switches --se #4 below). You will likely find them on a Chevy Tracker or Grand Vitara from 98-04. It will fit in where you current brake switch is. Its tricky to reach but it screws in the same. The 4 wires coming out of it are one green wire, one green and black striped wire (for the brake lights - normally open until brakes are pressed then they connect 12v) and the blue wire and the yellow wire are for the cruise control cancel (normally closed connected 12v until brakes are pressed then its 0v). (Another option is if you have a normally closed relay you can add that to your current oem brake light switch. See cancel button connection below. Direct wiring through the correct brake switch is slightly safer and more reliable a method, for if your relay dies for some reason the brake pedal would not cancel the set cruise. relays of this type rarely die over the life of the vehicle but they can die).best would be aa second(the same switch you used in the brake pedal) or 3rd option is a universal switch like a Speedway 91031306 Universal Mechanical Brake Light Switch. If you have a manual car you need something to make the servo know to cancel when you press the clutch. The easiest option is adding a second brake switch with cruise onto your clutch pedal. if your really lucky you might find the actual switch on a doner car, but even so I do not know if the actual clutch switch with cruise will need modification for how it fits on your clutch pedal because its almost impossible to find manual transmission doner cars. I do not think the Grand Vitara sold in the usa with a manual transmission, neither did the 2nd generation tracker (2nd gen is chevy trackers). I used a second brake switch that I pulled from a second tracker in the same junkyard.as you can see in the very first picture at the beginning of this post, the cruise stalk has a cancel button on the end of the stalk. So if you are doing the cruise stalk install you will need ato get the cancel button on the cruise stalk to work. (buy it on ebay, see pic below, On ebay it one seller had it listed as "40Amp 4 Pin Normally Closed Relay Prewired Base Socket Automotive Car Bike" these are often used with car and bike alarms). The cruise servo you are using is not made to have a separate pin input for this cancel button. It just had one cancel pin that was for the brake switch (brown wire) because the stalk in the full size 90's chevy trucks did not have cancel like the trackers and vitaras did. So we are piggybacking all cancels into this one pin on the servo. So all your cancel options brake, clutch, and this button will all be in the same circuit to the brown wire into your servo. A cancel button is a great nice function so why not get it to work. It is not totally needed for using cruise because you still have your brake and clutch to cancel, but because the stalk says in big letters "Cancel" it would be probably dangerous to not make that button work. You need the relay to make the button on the stalk work because this button, like set and resume are normally open buttons and they make make a 12v signal when pressed, but the cruise servo cancel brown wire on the servo need 12v constant to run and cancels cruise when the 12v is interrupted. So the relay being normally closed makes it 12v constant when the button is not pressed and cuts out the power to 0v when button is pressed--normally closed (12v constant), just like the brake and cruise switch. Of course if you do not use a stalk switch and just adding your own momentary switches to the dash you do not have to add a cancel feature button, but you can if you want to by using a normally closed button (you can find 4 pin button with nc on ebay) then you do not need a relay. But most people doing this install will have the stalk so just add a relay.I describe that install below.6.that can fit into your geo metro to add the cruise cable to, this is the idea Mythstae mentions in the second post in this thread for creating the dual-cable setup for the throttle. I was luck and grabbed a few different pulleys from a junk yard, and one fit with a little fabrication and modification to it, but the way i would do this if i had to in the future is to go to a junk yard with a 95 or newer (or similar to your year) geo metro in its lot and test out different pulleys in the yard. I actually now realize the same pulley as the throttle pulled from another metro can probably work if you reverse how you install it. Your cruise servo cable is going to be coming the opposite direction than your throttle cable from our gas pedal pulls. If you mount the servo the way i did, the cruise is going to be pulling the pulley you add in from the fire wall side toward the fire wall. I did have to modify what i pulled just a little bit by grinding off a part that rubbed in housing of my car. (for what i ended up with see pic below). Sorry i did not take note of what car i pulled it from. If you mount the servo in a different part of the car, You might also need extension cables or bike brake cables or anything you want to make it work you own rigged up throttle pulley. My car does not have ac and before i was thinking of putting my servo in the front to the left of the radiator because there was lots of space there. It ended up working better where it is now.here are pics of most of the parts, the cruise stalk pic is above at the top of this thread. .these are the types of momentary switches that can work if you do not get a cruise stalk.this pic is not of the right circuit board and stalk but it looks like this. I forgot to take a pic this pic if from another thread on intermittent wipers. its similar to this. the circuit board you pull goes in to this spot.this is the normally closed 4 pin relay for the stalk's cancel buttonThis is the brake switch with cruise wires (both a normally closed and open switch) its pictured on the left next to the oem brake switch. notice it has 4 wires coming green, green with white stripe, yellow, and blue. (ignore the twirled wires, that is not how it regularly looks). Ideally finding two fo these 4 wire switches is best, because these switches have both normally open and normally closed functions.the pulley modifiedThe tools you will need are. (you need some ingenuity and brains too)1. Steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel. Or you can use brute force but first disconnect the horn and airbag connectors before your tug.2. anfemale socket to remove your metro airbag to be able to remove your steering wheel to get into the housing and access your stalk and circuit board. if your pulling a stalk switch and circuit board from donor car. the geo trackers I pulled from did not have the same bolt as my geo. instead you will need a male torx bit to remove the torx scree the tracker has. I think the bit you use is t30 but it might be t10. I do not remember. I use my torx bits from a harbor freight 33 Pc Security Bit Set and it was the second or third largest of the torx bits in this set. but it is really small. Harbor freight sells a set of bits for $6.99 and it is one of those and that is a very useful set of bits to have on hand anyway. Also when pulling from a junk yard bring a wrench or a set of locking pliers to help turn whatever your using to hold the torx bit, because these torx screws are torqued in really tight, so they take a little force to unscrew. Not to bad but harder than you can do with bare hands.3. Wire cutters or scissors.4. Extra wires ( I salved wire from a few old extension chords and you also salvage wires from the stuff you pull)5. Soldering iron and solder - optional but will make better connections to whatever wires you connect, electrical tape or electric tape liquid or both.6. A drill and drill bits and metal cutting sheers or whatever else you might need to modify the throttle pulley you pull. Maybe you will find an exact fit pulley or actually if you get a pulley from a geo metro it might work. I used lock cutters and a drill to cut and shave off some of the unneeded metal.7.12 mm socket for removing the nut holding the throttle pulley.8. steel wire stuff you can shape or bend to hold in the cable from the servo, or heat resistant plastic ties.9. screw drivers, needle nose pliers and other regular tools sockets and socket wrenches and so on10. Patience(not all the installation steps below need to be done in this order, but this is the easiest way I found to list them.). I did not do that right away instead I installed the stalk and wire the windshield wipers first. but since maybe people are not doing the stalk I figure you might as well first install the servo. This is the part where you can look at my pics but it is more hand on. Figure out what you have, you might need to fabricate a bracket to hold the servo snuggly. You can see in the pic i used a plummers kind of pipe holding stuff. There is not a lot of room for this but i found a space near the power brakes. I added a bracket the screw already existing on the firewall holding the brake reservoir to the firewall so that I could support a bolt to hold the servo. In this location my servo actually ended up with its cable being the perfect length. (maybe you can also see in the pic i have a front strut mounted stabilizer bar i pulled from a junk yard that covers some of the area you might use).I cut a piece from this braket I had laying around, this bracket is from a keyless entry actuator set up.and attach the servo cable to it. And secure the cable housingFor the other end after I modified and added in the new throttle pulley i pulled to get it to fit and to get the cable from the end of my servo to attach. How you attach the end of the cable to the throttle pulley will depend on the pulley you find but you should test nothing is scraping of catching on any hardware or housing after you install it. I actually botched the end of my cable when i initially tried to install this sevo on my s10,so i added a cable stop. you can see that in the pic but what it has from the factor should work better. The cable stop i have in the pic is too big and gets in the way. so i just found a way to wrap and solder the end of the cable where it needs to attach. You will figure out how to connect the cable, but since the chevy servo is not made for a pulley or to retract for how it works on the truck, if the cruise is not engaged it does not retract if it gets spooled out, So therefore you can see I added a few wrap around wire to the pulley in a way that held the cable in the pulley track and how the extra cable spools out so it does not fall out of alignment with track. You do not want it to snake out when the regular throttle is pressed. It was easier than it looked, and it works. How you do this depend on what kind of throttle pulley you get.You can see also the place where the cable housing from the servo ends and the wire comes out to the pulley, how my housing is secured in place (I used some thick metal holding wires to hold it in place.also the nut holding the existing throttle pulley is held in by a 12mm. that bolt that is where you attach you pulley next to the existing pulley. you might be able to see the way my pulley was made i installed it inside (meaning closer to the air intake) so it is between the car regular throttle pulley and the air intake. The cruise servo cable comes from the fire wall over the top of the "inner new pulley and ends underneath, so it is opposite of how the throttle pulley is set up. even though it is an inner that is just how it is shaped. I did not remove the stock throttle pulley, but the new pulley base connector in the center goes after the stock pulley and then the nut holds it all together.. label your servo wires with tape using the color code list below. And fish wires through the fire wall to later connect from the servo to the wires from the stalk switch or your momentary switches and other connections. All the wires from the servo will need to be extended and lead into the car accept for the ground, which you can ground to the chassis. The wires are as follows. There is one place on the fire wall where there are already wires or cables coming through the firewall that have rubber holder that you can remove or go around to get wires through to the firewall. I used the wires from two computer power cables so each having three wires-- was enough for the 6 wires running from the servo inside the car. Here are the wires on the servo of the model number above. Different servo models will have different colors but this works for most early 90s chevy servosThe main 12v ignition line on power to cruise isthe ground isand white striped wire.the power switch to cruise from stalk is gray . (you can make your own power switch or button on your dash, or without a switch hard wire the cruise in to be ready to work all the time)Theis awiretheisthewire is. this reads 12v unless the brake or clutch is pressed then that interrupts the line to make 0v.theis the, set to take 4000ppm square sign signal the same the geo metro makes, you end up connecting his to c3-11 pin on your ecm, explained below.the white wire is cruise control dash indicator. This would go to the pcm on the chevy truck to then control a dash indicator. But you probably will not connect this to anything. I will add an led indicator to a master switch for cruise i put in the car later on.You should connect the ground of the servo right away to a chassis ground of the car. All the other servo wires get connected during the wiring of each function of the cruise switches, and vss and cancel/brake connections, and during the wiring of the power from the junction box. So first label each of them with tape to know what they are. For the servo to work all the wires need to be connected correctly (accept for the white wire that your not using). When you connect the power, which is likely also when your wiring the brake and clutch and cancel switches (see below), you can just connect the grey and the pink black striped power wires together for they both need the same power in. Or if you want to make an on off button or switch for cruise then the grey wire is intended for this kind of a switch. A switch is not necessary but it is nice. If you do not make a switch to turn the cruise on and off, your cruise will just always be hard wired to function so as long as the car is running over 25mph. So if the set button stalk is pressed (twisting stalk down) your cruise will kick in. It is sort of a safety feature to have a total power on off switch for cruise. Just add a rocker switch or a latching button. I used a latching button with an led indicator in the button, so i also end up with a light indicator when my cruise switch is on and the cruise operational. (see last step below for how to install and an image on this button).this step is for those using the stalk form the chevy tracker or other doner car, but for those not doing the stalk you skip these wiper install details. And just go to the momentary switch option section below.In doing the stalk replace you will now have intermittent wipers if you did not before, and if already had intermittent wipers you will now have fancier adjustable intermittent with the new dial on the stalk you pulled.I will not describe how to pull steering wheels, but that is of course part of the thing you need to do. Go to you tube to see how to pull a steering wheel if you do not know how. You will probably need a steering wheel kit but if your strong you might be able to do it just by brute force. Also the housing being the airbag and steering wheel has different screws that need removing to open it up. It is kinda easy to figure out. Once inside you take off the things in front of the stalk housing. Other threads on adding intermittent wires in this forum describe how to do this but it is pretty easy to figure out. Save you screws do not loose anything you take off.Cutting the wiper wires: You are going to have to cut your existing wiper wires because the plug on the harness from the new circuit board and stalk you pulled from the tracker has a different end on its wire harness than what your geo has. So it will not fit your geo metro junction box.So after you remove your circuit board you will cut your wiper wires and from that. These are the existing wiper wires, but of course look at what you are dong and do not cut the headlights and turn signal wires because you are leaving that oem stalk on the left side intact. So trace the wires first to know what your cutting. Cut them in a place in the steering wheel itself where it was easy to work about 6 inches from where they come out of the circuit board.Then you install the new stalk switch and circuit board. (i'm not going into details because it is pretty easy to see what screws need to be removed and you already pulled it from a junk yard and pulled off your board in your car so you know how it connects at this point.) so of course you cut the wires on the new circuit board to the length where they will connect with the wires you cut from your wiper harness. But do not cut the red grey and black (clack with brown dots) wires from the new circuit board that are in a separate sleeve than the wiper wires from the new board. Leave them full length because the black wire with brown dots is the ground and you will salvage the other full length red and grey one for other purposes.Connect the wiper wires and solder them you also cut the wiper wires and then connect them together with your existing wiper wires. . Most of the wiring to the wipers matches perfectly. Except for the light blue wire from the new cirit board does not match any color and the blue and black stripe wire from your metro’s existing wiper wire bunch does not fit anything. Make sure you connect those two. Remember the light blue connects the the blue with black stripe.At this point all your wiper functions will work. I have included diagrams on the wiper wiring if that helps sorry i do not have pics of my wiring job. Most of them line up. You can see in the diagram, yellow is power and blue with red strips is I think wiper low speed and so on.since i list all the colors, these diagrams are just here if you want another reference. they helped me figure out what each wire was for, but most of the colors do match.Also at this point your wipers are almost done but your intermittent will not work yet. You can test everything else. The intermittent should work when you install the ground, which is the longer black wire form the other side of the circuit board that you saved in full length from before. But before doing that test all the wiper functions to make sure they work (with key in ignition and turned to acc). After you test them you can solder solder and tape these wires, but do not yet tape or cover the yellow power wire. That power will be needed for attaching to some of the stalk wires (see #4 on the wire color list below)Installing the cruise wires from the switch. Because the actual cruise on chevy tracker is much more complicated than how the old chevy truck cruises are you have to do some rewiring or bypassing of the newer circuit for most of the wires, but not touching or messing with the wires related to the intermittent wipers. Luckily i tested and figured out all this wiring for you, otherwise this would be hard but it is simple.So what you have is a bunch of small thinner wires coming into the board from the stalk switch and coming out of the board across from the switch you have the 3 wires mentioned before (red grey and black with brown dots) . to get the wires you need to connect to the servo you will cut most of the wires as far from the stalk as you can but DO NOT CUT THE LONG BLACK GROUND WIRE and DO NOT CUT THE THIN SMALL YELLOW WIRES. those yellow wires are the intermittent wiper function wires. (sorry i have no pics, but the description is clear).Now under my dash i already had installed a keyless entry so i had a ground wire. But you need to find a ground to the chassis. There are also a few ground wires going into the ecm. But anyway connect the black wire to a ground. (now if you test your intermittent will work)Now you cut the wires you are no using. The red and grey one and save the full length. You can use them for your vss wiring later on or for wiring any of the connections from the servo. Personally i used the computer power cables because they were all protected more in thicker housing. In the engine bay i did salvage the grey wire to run from my servo to ground on the chassis.Cut all the wires between the cruise stalk and he circuit board listed below (but not the yellow) and cut in a way in a way that give you enough wire to add wires to the stalk to work with. This way you can add leads to them and they will go to your cruise servo. Here is the color code list of what those wires function as.1. purple is the Set button wire -- you will add a wire to this to go through fire wall to connect to the blue wire on the servo2. orange (light brown) is the resume/acell button wire - this will connect with the green on servo.3. The green from the stalk is the cancel button wire - this gets 12v when pressed so you will add a Normally Closed relay to this line to connect it into the brake cut of switch line to the cruise servo (see below for details)4. white wire and dark brown wire from the stalk switch need to be connected together and then add a wire to connect them to 12v power-- you have power close by because the power for the wiper functions on the "wiper side" of the circuit board that is the yellow wire that you you did not tape up before when doing the wiper install. So this slightly thicker yellow with red stripe wire is where you get the power for the cruise functions. So you need a few inches of wire to add to the yellow wire to extend it to the white and brown wires on the cruise stalk. now your stalk has power to the cruise functions.Like i said do not cut the yellow wires they control the intermittent wiper function. Do not cut the black wire with brown dots, your ground wire.Basically following the color codeshe Purple wire from your switch will run to the blue set wire on your servo and doing that all gets the stalk wiring finished, accept the green cancel wire. Make sure you run a wire from the green wire down to the brake pedal area this is the Cancel button line. (I explain below how this wire will connect to a normally closed relay)Now if you did not use a stalk switch and instead want to do momentary switches you need to wire them appropriately with long enough wires to go from the servo to wherever on your dash you are putting your switches (your likely to go to the left side of the steering wheel where there is room for switches). Its pretty simple to wire them. The middle of a two way momentary switch will need 12 volt power from ignition. We will discuss where to get power from below when we go over the brake and clutch switch and main power connections. The set side of the switch will work with the blue wire from servo (that you extended through the firewall to the switch, and the resume/acel will work with the green). After you wire the switch test with a volt meter to make sure the correct wires get 12v when switch is pressed. Besides the two way switch wire 12 volts to a third single throw momentary toggle switch or a simple momentary button for another cancel. Or you can leave that out and just use your brake or clutch to cancel.So there are three areas yet to connect. 1. You have to connect the VSS wire between the servo and the ecm. 2. you have to connect 12v power from the junction bock to the servo. And 3. you have to connect 12v power to the brake clutch and cancel button switches and wiring from your stalk cancel wire (or your own momentary cancel button switch if you made one) these all need to be in line with 12v running through, we will go over that after first attaching the vss.Where you get the VSS signal is on pin 11 of plug C3 going into the ecm. The ecm is behind the glove box and you can lay upside down and get in there from behind and remove the plugs to the ecm to get to the wires. c3 is the top most connector plug. on C3 pin 11 is at the bottom most part of the connector plug.At the junction box there are a few sources of power related to being on when key is turned on ignition. On my car i do not have rear defrost yet there was a fuse there for defrost so that is a good powerful choice. The other choice could be wiper fuse location. What i do is wrap a wire around the fuse peg that ends up in the left side of the fuse when fuse is inserted. By using the left side of the fuse peg the fuse will protect the circuit and blow if there is some problem instead of damaging your wiring. Maybe other people know better where to get power and how to connect new accessories into the car. Please leave comments to help. This worked for me. .So that power from my fuse box goes to three different wires. As described in the color code list of the cruise servo about. there is a red and grey wire wire going into the servo. They both need 12v power in. but on the line runing power to them from the junction box, i first go to a to a lighted led switch I added on my dash so i can turn on a master switch to power on the cruise control and have an indicator light that my cruise is on. So after the switch it goes to both the red and grey wire on the servo. Then also 12 volts goes to the cancel relay and brake switch , clutch switch circuit.The cancel button on the stalk had a green wire, that you extended down through the steering column (this is where those salvaged wires described before come in handy). The NC relay you are connecting it too has 4 wires running out of it : two green wires and a white and yellow wire.). You connect yellow wire from the relay to the the green "cancel button" wire that came from the stalk and connect the white from the relay to the ground. The white wire (ground) and a yellow wire are for signaling the relay to open when it gets a signal of 12v. when a switch opens it turns off. So your cancel button will activate the relay and open the switch (turning off the power). The green wires will go in the cancel circuit and they need 12v flowing through described below.Hopefully you could find 2 doner vehicles so you have two brake cruise switches from them. For the brake you are replacing your 2 wire brake switch with one of the cruise brake switches you pulled. The cruise brake switch has 4 wires. the green ones are normally open and the blue and yellow are normally closed. With the brake switch you will be attaching the green and green and white stripe wires to the brake light wires so the brakes turn on when the switch is activated (brakes pressed). The blue and yellow will be wired in a circuit to the cancel input on the servo (brown wire going to the servo), (described below).for manual cars, the options for the clutch switch are described above in the gathering parts section. If you have a manual, the existing clutch switch on your car which is for the starter is different. that is called the Clutch Pedal Ignition Lock Switch and its a special heavy duty switch and is pressed by a lever when the clutch is depressed to start the car. So it is not like the brake switch that is released when brake pedal is pressed. Therefore I suggest you leave that switch alone. (I tried a few times to install different switches in its place but later changed to decide its best to use a different place on the clutch to add a second switch just for cruise.) You will notice a little further down the from the oem switch but still high enough so it won't be hit by your foot, there is a hole with a little rubber stopper in it in metal housing in front of the clutch pedal.you can see the black rubber circle in this picture. Remove the rubber stopper and this is the place where you can add the cruise cancel switch. The hole is just a bit too small so drill it bigger and then add your second cruise brake switch. You use the existing nut to hold the switch. I used two nuts on each side of the hole. here is a pic from when i was installing (sorry its from a wierd angle).. The switch in this pic does not have the wires connected, you take off the wire connector when screwing it in and then later connect the wires. You use the yellow and blue wires on the switch just like you did with your brake switch and connect the wires as described below. you do not need to connect the green wires on this switch to anything. if you just found a servo but not using a stalk or cannot find two brake switches with cruise from donner cars at the junk yard, you still have your oem brake light switch that in the last step you already removed from the brake pedal so just salvage that switch and use it with a relay to make it normally closed. So if you connect it to the relay you connected your cancel button two it should be able to function just fine.so the entire cancel circuit that goes to the brown wire in the servo is like this. Power from the junction box goes to brake switch and then to clutch switch and then to the to normally closed relay to servo (green wires on the relay). I use the same power all on my junction box from the rear defrost fuse, since rear defrost is an ignition powered option and defrost is a high amp feature and since i have no rear defrost, this is a great power source. another option would be the wiper fuse.All these switches and relays end up being wired all as normally closed (so 12v is running through the wires until brake or clutch or cancel is pressed). The cruise will operate knowing the signal is not broke and it will cancel if you hit the brake or the clutch or the cancel button.(this is optional because you can just hard wire the cruise to be always operational) . The 12 volt power from the junction box should go to the pink and black striped power to the servo but the servo also has a grey wire that needs power for it to work. So from the junction box you can wire in an on off switch or on off latching button to the grey wire on the servo. here is the button i used.I drilled a hole in my dash on the left side where i have a few other added features and installed this button there. There are many types of buttons and switches. The simplest type will only have two pins. but and led lighted button like the one i got has 4 or 5 pins. It has 5 pins because it has either normally closed or open feature and it has always lighted or only lighted when pressed feature depending how you connect the wires. I connected it so that it lights up when pressed on and the latching mean its stays on until pressed again. You can use a volt meter to figure out what pins do what on whatever button you buy. but if you get the same 5 pin button i did. the three middle pins are for the switch itself. There are small diagrams at the base of each pin, you connect your power through the normally open pin (one of the outer middle row pins) and the gray going out (middle pin). The top pin and bottom pin are for the led light to work. the top says "12v" and you connect the power to that as well and the bottom goes to a ground.Once all the wires are connected test the cruise and solder the wires and tape them up or use some brush on electrical tape.(Also I just figured out to add a Lane departure indicator. It works like this, when my car goes out of its lane without me paying attention the indicator makes a crashing sound)Just so people know you can take apart these servos and easily swap the motherboards, thus being able to get the correct servo that works with your vss to have the right cable. Up above i think I talk about the different throttle cables on the servos and some are easier to install than others. I recently found a servo from 1995 chevy full size truck and it had a much longer cable and the easier type of cable end to use with a geo metro (of the two types this is the one with the exposed cable). The 95 had way too many wires and the wrong circuitry for working with the geo but it would be easy to fix that by just changing out the motherboards inside. Here are pics of that servo. I took apart the servo and removed the throttle cable just to have an extra cruise throttle cable if every I need one. In doing so I realized how easy it is to dissemble and swap parts in these servos. in fact the circuit board attached to the black plastic side is so easily swap-able which would make it very easy to end up with the right cable length. It is easier to just swap the mother board than to the correct metal mechanical unit that already has the right cable, than it is to switch the cables. The cables are hard to remove, but it is possible and i also explain below how to remove the cableabove you can see how the unit ends up in two parts. So the mother board on the left could be interchanged with any of the bases thus this is the easiest way to get right combination of cable length and style with the right circuitry to match your geo. so if you found the pd 25140076 D servo in a junk yard but it has the wrong cable on it, grab another servo like one from a 95 with the long very versatile cable on it, and switch the circuit boards between the two and return the unused servo with the 95 motherboard to the junk yard.I do not recommend this because its easier to just switch the circuitry like above, but if you want extra cables for spare parts you can remove the cable. open up servo and take out just the cable thing by taking out the spool that is connected. the cable connects to a ribbon that connects to the spool. To removing the ribbon from the spool, there is a hole in the spool and you insert a paper clip to move out the pin holding the ribbon. To get the cable off the housing where it is locked in s too tricky i ended up braking one of the holders, The holder is not to important if I really needed to just swap cables I recommend braking a holder since the cable is so hard to get out. And you can use epoxy puddy or something else to hold a reinstalled cable on. It would not be that hard to epoxy it back on.