Hello.

In the past 4 years I've played with 3D printers.

I have discovered and learned new skills and knowledge. I designed and printed a lot of objects. I fell in love with 3D printers. And I hated them. And again I fell in love.

And now I've decided to make a 3D printer. An open source printer.

In this instructable I will describe how to build your BlueLight 3D printer. It is the first 3D printer we produced and is the basic model. If you want, you can upgrade to DeepBlue 3D or even to DeepBlue 3D Pro.

Highlights: cube like frame, new cross XY rolling system design, servo Z probe for all bed surfaces, four point translation bed design, simple filament run out sensor, active cooling with laminar air curtain and Marlin 2.0 firmware (early stage).

The DeepBlue 3D Pro, the top of the Blue3D range has an active enclosure, wi-fi connection, raspberry pi with octoprint and direct extruder.

LightBlue 3D characteristics:

print volume 200x200x230 mm;

very rigid cube structure;

FDM technology;

minimum layer height of 0.06 mm;

heated bed & flexible PEI sheet bed;

autoleveling with servo probe;

e3Dv6 hotend type;

runout filament senzor M600;

top print speed 120 mm / sec;

Bowden or direct drive feed;

is open source;

has Marlin firmware with Z-axis synchronization.

These instructions are a brief description of the LightBlue printer. I tried to be as clear and complete as possible, but if you feel the need for more detailed descriptions, please contact me. I'll be happy to help you.

Thanks to the RepRap community and Marlin developers for intelligence, hard work and dedication to developing 3D printers.

Note: Attached * .stl files are the latest evolution and, possibly, are different from those used when we made the movie. However, the installation differences are minor.