BY MATT DUCKOR, RECIPE BY DAVID DOWNIE

Photo: Marcus Nilsson



It’s not really a matter of better or worse.



Here’s a scene that should be familiar if you’ve visited a high-end grocery store lately: Long ribbons of fresh pappardelle and thin stands of fresh spaghetti, displayed like prime cuts of meat in an idyllically-lit refrigerated case. Often labeled “hand-cut” or “house-made,” these fresh pastas stand apart from their dried counterparts for their smooth texture, their tenderness…and their higher prices, which are staggering compared to the always-available dried pasta.

So is fresh pasta better than dried? There’s a disturbing misconception that, because it’s just-made and doesn’t come in a bag, it is. But that’s completely untrue. Like a mother and her children, it’s not a matter of loving one more than the other—it’s just a different kind of love.

When to love fresh and when to love dried? The rule of thumb comes down to which sauce you’re pairing with it.

USE FRESH PASTA FOR CREAMY, DAIRY-BASED SAUCES

Making a delicate sauce that starts with melted butter or whole milk? Get ready to have your at-home pasta game completely upgraded by pairing your next alfredo or carbonara with fresh pasta, either by making it yourself or buying in a store. Want to bring the glory of fresh pasta home? Give our Creamy Pappardelle with Leaks and Bacon recipe a spin with any fresh ribbon pasta you can get your hands on.

USE THE DRY PASTA FOR HEARTY, OIL-BASED SAUCES

Dry pasta’s calling card is its toothsome bite (that’s what you’re going for when a recipe calls for al dente pasta). That firm structure will help it stand up to any meaty sauce you throw at it. Any high-quality dried tube pasta makes a great pairing with a spicy sauce like the one found in our Rigatoni with Spicy Calabrese-Style Pork Ragù recipe.

Related: These Addictive, Amazing 22-Minute Meals Will Change Weeknight Dinner



AND THEN THERE’S BOLOGNESE

One exception to that general rule? Ragu bolognese. This classic is a staple dish of Northern Italy traditionally uses fresh egg pasta, despite the fact that, at first glance, bolognese seems like a textbook example of a meaty sauce that would pair well with dried pasta. What makes it different is the addition of simmered whole milk, which gives the sauce its rich, thick consistency. If you’re making bolognese, always opt for fresh pasta.

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RECIPE: CLASSIC RAGU BOLOGNESE



INGREDIENTS

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium onions, finely chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)

2 celery stalks, finely chopped (about 1 cup)

2 carrots, peeled, finely chopped (about 3/4 cup)

6 ounces ground beef (85% lean)

6 ounces ground veal

3 ounces thinly sliced pancetta, finely chopped

1/2 cup dry red wine

3 cups (about) beef stock or chicken stock, divided

3 tablespoons tomato paste

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup whole milk

1 pound tagliatelle or fettuccine (preferably fresh egg)

Finely grated Parmesan (for serving)

PREPARATION

Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add onions, celery, and carrots. Saute until soft, 8-10 minutes. Add beef, veal, and pancetta; saute, breaking up with the back of a spoon, until browned, about 15 minutes. Add wine; boil 1 minute, stirring often and scraping up browned bits. Add 2 1/2 cups stock and tomato paste; stir to blend. Reduce heat to very low and gently simmer, stirring occasionally, until flavors meld, 1 1/2 hours. Season with salt and pepper.

Bring milk to a simmer in a small saucepan; gradually add to sauce. Cover sauce with lid slightly ajar and simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, until milk is absorbed, about 45 minutes, adding more stock by 1/4-cupfuls to thin if needed. DO AHEAD: Ragu can be made 2 days ahead. Chill uncovered until cold, then cover and keep chilled. Rewarm before continuing.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Season with salt; add pasta and cook, stirring occasionally, until 1 minute before al dente. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup pasta water. Transfer ragu to a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add pasta and toss to coat. Stir in some of the reserved pasta water by tablespoonfuls if sauce seems dry. Divide pasta among warm plates. Serve with Parmesan.

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