We’ve discussed this before, but I really hate cooking anything twice. I know what an awful shame this is–falling upon gasp-worthy, decadent and even flawless recipes, broadcasting their merits across the Web, then filing them away only to never speak of them again–but I am going to have to insist that you do not judge me for this; after all, what would thesmittenkitchen be without my impatience for the next new thing?

Nevertheless, there are certain recipes that Alex, less appalled with the concept of having to eat anything twice in two whole years, frequently and politely requests that I make again. And what do I do? Do I tie on my apron, pour him a drink and say “of course, honey! Anything for you, baby! You’re the love of my life, baby!”? No, I suggest that he make it himself.

So, without further ado, this the dish that will hereto-forth be known as Alex’s Chicken Marsala, and this is what you need to know about it: It is all about the mushrooms. The buttery, marsala-ed mushrooms are mind-bogglingly delicious. You won’t believe the flavor they can extract from so few ingredients, and in such a reasonable amount of time.

This is as good time as any for me to sing the praises of the humble white button mushroom, which get upstaged a lot these days by fancier heirloom and wild varieties. And although I have room in my funky (er, funghi?) heart for each and all types, I maintain that you can extract every bit of complex flavor from a white button mushroom as you can from a crimini or shiitake–it is all about know how to cook them, and this, my friends, is an excellent place to start. Or have someone start for you while you sit on the sofa, drink your wine and play Scrabulous. Same difference, right?