Melbourne's only dry zone is two years short of its centenary, but locals say the area is dry in name only, as dozens of food venues are granted liquor licences and wine bars open for the first time.

There are no pubs or clubs, and alcohol purportedly cannot be sold in restaurants and cafes in the dry zone encompassing Ashburton, Glen Iris, Camberwell, Canterbury, Balwyn, North Balwyn, Mont Albert, Mont Albert North, Box Hill, Box Hill South and Box Hill North.

But, quietly, fully licensed premises have proliferated.

The Victorian Commission for Gambling and Liquor Regulation says there are 143 restaurants and cafes with liquor licences in the dry zone, compared with just 42 in 2010.

In the three years to December 2017, the regulator said 53 liquor licences were granted. A further five are under application.