When Andrea Nguyen, noted Asian culinary expert and cookbook author, left Los Angeles for Santa Cruz County 19 years ago, she was surprised to encounter a rather dispirited food scene.

Despite local farmers’ markets carrying the most vibrant of produce, the dining landscape was lackluster, dominated by the frozen, the fried and far too many flabby clam chowders.

But thankfully, times have changed — in the most delicious of ways.

Nguyen, who moved to Santa Cruz in 1998 when her husband, Rory O’Brien, became a political science professor at Cabrillo College in Aptos, has witnessed this beach town grow into a true dining destination. New restaurants and purveyors have invigorated the area, thanks in part, she believes, to chef Kendra Baker opening the artisan Penny Ice Creamery in 2010.

“She brought a higher caliber of food and service to this town, which needed enlightening and enlivening,’’ says Nguyen, 48. “I think she inspired more restaurateurs to come to town. There’s a new generation now breathing fresh air into what was once a tired food scene.’’

Nguyen took us on a tour, proudly showing off five new — and one not so new — places that showcase the breadth of dining now here. The Vietnam native may have authored five Asian cuisine cookbooks, including her latest that debuted in February, “The Pho Cookbook” (Ten Speed Press). But she jokingly admits even she cannot live on Asian food alone.

Bay Area freelance writer Carolyn Jung blogs at FoodGal.com and is the author of the “San Francisco Chef’s Table.’’ E-mail: food@sfchronicle.com

Back to Gallery Santa Cruz dining scene shakes off its college town image 15 1 of 15 Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle 2 of 15 Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle 3 of 15 Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle 4 of 15 Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle 5 of 15 Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle 6 of 15 Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle 7 of 15 Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle 8 of 15 Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle 9 of 15 Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle 10 of 15 Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle 11 of 15 Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle 12 of 15 Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle 13 of 15 Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle 14 of 15 Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle 15 of 15 Photo: Mason Trinca, Special to The Chronicle





























Earth Belly

The flourish of fresh garlic and rosemary, not to mention the accompanying house-made aioli, on the hand-cut, impeccably crisp fries gives you an early indication that a practiced hand is at work in the kitchen. Indeed, chef and owner Chad Greer cooked for years at Aqua in San Francisco, before working for chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten in Manhattan, then opening his own farm-to-table restaurant in the Hudson Valley. In July 2016, he moved to Santa Cruz to open this airy, casual cafe that strives to serve entirely non-GMO, organic food such as a BLT piled on a pillowy house-made bun and crowned with an over-easy local Glaum Ranch egg; and the TriAthlete, a healthful mound of salad greens, kale, chickpeas, carrots, beets, sunflower seeds and hemp seeds — all drizzled with a ginger-avocado vinaigrette.

There’s a good selection of organic local beers. The bakery case brims with pecan pie bars made with Fair Trade chocolate. Earth Belly even sells 24-ounce bags of its own gluten-free flour mix for $8.95. “It’s my go-to place for lunch,’’ Nguyen says. “Everything is well sourced and well prepared.’’

Must order: The fish sandwich ($10.50) spotlights local rock cod slathered with lemon and caper aioli with pepper slaw on a house-made bun. 381 Soquel Ave., Santa Cruz, (831) 621-2248, eatearthbelly.com.

Mutari

Stephen Beaumier, a former cook at Cyrus in Healdsburg and Quince in San Francisco, traded a weary four-hour round-trip commute for a four-block one instead when he and his girlfriend Katy Oursler, an events planner, took over Santa Cruz County’s only bean-to-bar chocolate company a year ago. The two of them do it all themselves — from sourcing beans from eight regions of the world to producing about 100 pounds of single-origin chocolate each week. Made from beans that are largely organic and Rainforest Alliance Certified, the chocolate is fashioned into bars, as well as gourmet hot chocolate mixes.

On Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, they open their doors to their cafe there, serving a concise menu of intense sipping chocolate or dairy-free, vegan hot chocolate made with coconut milk that Beaumier whisks by hand at a vintage stove in front of visitors. “They are so smart in how they make their chocolate and run their business,’’ says Nguyen, who noted that Beaumier and Oursler rent their commercial kitchen in the back to other local food producers, which affords them more income to grow their own business carefully and slowly.

Must order: Nguyen’s favorite Hot Chocolate Flight ($10.50) comprised of a small cup each of Spicy Mexican, Single Origin Bolivia, and Himalayan Pink Salt. 504-A Front St., Santa Cruz, (831) 687-8141, www.mutarichocolate.com.

Shun Feng

At first glance of the menu, this may seem like any typical Chinese restaurant. But Stacy Liu, whose father, Baolin Liu, is the chef and owner, wants to show people that “Chinese food is more than broccoli beef, and sweet and sour pork.’’ Look more closely to discover more unusual dishes such as cubes of tofu fried in an addicting salt and pepper crust, zilan (cumin) lamb with a blaze of Szechuan peppercorns, and roast duck with taro cooked in a clay pot. Or do the clever thing Nguyen did, which is ask Liu, whose family immigrated from northern China and took over the restaurant three years ago, “What do you like to eat?’’ That’s how Nguyen found out about the restaurant’s “International Students’ Menu,’’ which is not printed, but just recited. On it are comfort food dishes like eggs gently cooked with tomato that the restaurant makes especially for home-sick students from China attending college in the Santa Cruz area. Nguyen considers it the best place in the county for Asian food.

Must order: Spicy and sour stir-fried potatoes ($9.95) off the “International Students’ Menu.’’ Hand-cut strands of potato are flash-cooked with vinegar and dried peppers for a tangy, smoky taste. Resembling noodles yet with an unexpected crunchy texture, this is potato prepared like you’ve never had before. 420 River St., Santa Cruz, (831) 423-9888, www.shunfengsantacruz.com.

East End Gastropub

This sister restaurant to the popular West End Tap & Kitchen on the other side of town opened a year ago. Co-owner and chef Geoff Hargrave came over from there to run the kitchen here, offering a smaller menu that changes more frequently. Sixteen beers are featured on tap, including East End’s own, plus ones from Hermitage and the Tied House. Take a seat at the long marble bar to enjoy an eclectic menu, featuring everything from “Kentucky Fried’’ duck leg with brie mac and cheese to Szechuan-cured pork belly baos. Nguyen appreciates that the restaurant takes the time to make its own pasta, including rye pappardelle and green-hued arugula manicotti. “The portions are so generous,’’ Nguyen says. “The house salad could easily serve four people.’’

Must order: House-made gemelli pasta ($14) tossed with chorizo, kale and a creamy tomatosauce. 1501 41st Ave., Capitola, (831) 475-8010, www.eastendpub.com.

Jaguar

Owner Dina Torres serves alfresco food at her Cafe Campesino in Santa Cruz only when weather permits. But in January, she opened a second place that serves up provincial Mexican cuisine year-round. With its understated gray walls, muted striped banquettes, tables draped in white cloths and adorned with vases of fresh tulips, Jaguar is an elegant, stylish affair. “You eat and it’s such a nice experience,’’ Nguyen says. “You don’t feel weighed down afterward, either.’’ Not with salads made with first-of-the-season local peas, baby spinach, queso cotija, and a serrano-lemon dressing or even house-made meatballs smothered in a chipotle-tomato sauce and served with house-made tortillas.

Must order: Torta de papa ($8), an appetizer of golden potato and queso fresco cakes reminiscent of tater tots. 1116 Soquel Ave., Santa Cruz, (831) 600-7428, www.jaguarrestaurantinc.com.

Home

In what was once an actual charming little 1950s house, chef Brad Briske is turning out world-class food like an artful octopus carpaccio that tastes like the perfect headcheese of the sea. Formerly the executive chef of the stellar La Balena in Carmel-by-the-Sea, he cures his own salumi, makes supple pastas, and even dries his own local seaweed to add an umami pop to the rice coating of his fried chicken. The restaurant, which opened in November, is dinner-only right now, but hopes to eventually fire up its pizza oven for weekend lunches on the expansive back patio planted with herbs, as well as kiwi, lemon and peach trees.

Must-order: “They are really gutsy for serving whole bone-in fish,’’ says Nguyen, who particularly loved a perfectly fried version on her first visit. Briske changes up the menu regularly, featuring whole fish cooked various ways, such as salt-crusted whole sea bass ($27), garnished with fennel, kumquat, blood orange and watercress. 3101 N. Main St., Soquel, (831) 431-6131, www.homesoquel.com.