Alonso Guzman Arellano says his Taiwanese cooking is very traditional. Still this chef, who left the Mexican state of Michoacán for New York when he was 15 (and most recently was cooking at a Chinese restaurant in New Jersey, after a stint at Vitae in Manhattan), puts a burrito spin on his parchment-thin scallion pancakes, rolling them around a filling of beef, jalapeños, onions and greens. The dish for which Mr. Arellano, 24, is best known at his compact market stall is braised beef noodle soup, a Taiwanese specialty. It comes in a deep bowl filled with slices of beef, bok choy, pickled cabbage and his hand-pulled noodles, an art that he has managed to perfect. The broth, which he says simmers for six hours, delivers depth and spice. He speaks Mandarin and has visited Taiwan. Dumplings and other soups with noodles are also on the menu.

Noodle Culture, Gansevoort Market, 353 West 14th Street, 347-989-7325, noodleculture.business.site.

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