“I don’t feel like I’m the centre of attention,” insisted Rory McIlroy before a ball was struck in this, the 148th Open Championship. Well, he is now – for reasons far removed from the fairytale scenario in which McIlroy would raise the Claret Jug at the venue where he excelled as a 16-year-old. Such a memorable occasion for Northern Ireland instantly lurched towards calamity for one of its most celebrated sons.

One of the most extraordinary – and extraordinarily damaging – rounds of McIlroy’s career began with an eight and finished with a seven. The 30-year-old’s 79, eight over par, on the Open’s historic return to Royal Portrush leaves him embroiled in a desperate scrap to make the cut. The last time McIlroy opened golf’s oldest major with this score, in 2013, he lasted only two days. In four subsequent Open appearances before this wounding day on the north coast of Antrim, McIlroy had not scored higher than 71. McIlroy has not so much drifted as sunk, from one of the short-priced Open favourites to a 400-1 outsider. This was not in anyone’s script.

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It is doubtful whether there has ever been a McIlroy scorecard like this one. It featured two birdies, 12 pars, a bogey, double bogey, triple bogey and quadruple bogey. To his credit, the four-times major winner undertook media duties and sought to explain how the “simple stuff” went awry. Privately, he must be devastated about what transpired in front of such an expectant audience.

“I definitely think if I can put the ball in the fairway tomorrow I can shoot a good enough score to be around for the weekend,” said McIlroy. “Obviously I’m pretty sure anyone starting with a 79 in this golf tournament doesn’t think about winning at this point. But I think I can go out there and shoot something in the mid-60s, be around for the weekend, and then try to play good from there.

“I didn’t give a very good account of myself out there. And I can definitely play better, as all of you know.” Indeed we do, which made this situation such a head-scratcher. McIlroy did not sugarcoat an “inexcusable” missed putt from tap-in range at the 16th.

When walking to the 2nd tee, McIlroy was already eight from the lead. By close of play on a squally day, he sat 13 shots adrift of the front-running JB Holmes. Shane Lowry returned an impressive 67 to lie within one of Holmes’s five-under tally. Holmes has something of a curious Open record, with a third-place finish at Troon in 2016 leaping out among a string of missed cuts and the making up of numbers. In his past six starts on the PGA Tour, Holmes has not lasted beyond Friday.

Facebook Twitter Pinterest More anguish for Rory McIlroy after a double bogey at the 16th. Photograph: BPI/Rex/Shutterstock

In another unquestionable blow to the profile of the Open’s staging at Portrush for the first time in 68 years, Tiger Woods joined McIlroy in the gallery of infamy. Woods’s struggles, that said, were far less of a surprise. The Masters champion winced at impact on his opening tee shot; there was further cause for Woods to grimace as he reached the turn in 41. Woods, unfamiliar with these surroundings and visibly fragile, laboured towards a 78.

Pre-tournament, little was made of the fact Lowry had tasted success here, as an amateur in the North of Ireland Championship. The man from Offaly is comfortable on links courses and enjoying one of the finest seasons of his professional career. It would be no shock whatsoever should Lowry at least remain prominent for another three days.

“I think four under is a great score on that course and I’ll take it any day,” Lowry said. “I was probably as nervous as I’ve been in quite a while on the 1st tee, almost ever, I’d say.

“Look, nerves are a good thing, aren’t they? It’s where you want to be. I just hope I’m nervous on Sunday afternoon out there. It’s right where you want to be and you have to tell yourself that when you’re there. Where would you rather be? Would you rather be here or sitting at home watching on TV?”

A string of illustrious names are well placed. Sergio García, Jon Rahm, Alex Noren, Tyrrell Hatton, Tommy Fleetwood and Brooks Koepka are among the group at three under par. Garcia has endured a dismal time in majors since winning one, the Masters of 2017. Koepka’s recent run on the same stages, of course, has been outstanding. “I feel good, I feel very comfortable,” Koepka said. “It’s a major championship; this is what you’re trying to peak for.”

Scotland has been desperate for a golfing superstar for some time. Further proof that it might have one was delivered by Bob MacIntyre’s joining of the 68 club. The left-hander from Oban held the lead for a brief spell on day one. MacIntyre does not seem remotely fazed by his major debut.

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Francesco Molinari’s Open defence began with a 74. Adam Scott slumped to a 78. Phil Mickelson’s recently drastic weight loss did not have an instantly positive impact; he signed for 76. David Duval attracted attention for all the wrong reasons after taking 14 at the 7th – blow by blow accounts of this debacle would give you a headache – en route to a 91.

There was, then, considerably worse than McIlroy. It just did not feel that way.