Kadaknath chicken — an indigenous breed — has more protein content and is less fatty than both broiler and country chicken. (Source: Kadaknathchicken.blogspot.com) Kadaknath chicken — an indigenous breed — has more protein content and is less fatty than both broiler and country chicken. (Source: Kadaknathchicken.blogspot.com)

As Marathwada capitulates to yet another drought, its women, who have stoically borne the impact, are pinning their hopes on a super bird — the Kadaknath or Kali Masi chicken. The rearing of this indigenous breed is among the many ways in which the drought-afflicted in Beed, Osmanabad and other districts of Marathwada are staying afloat, or at least hoping to.

According to a recent report in this newspaper, organisations such as Swayam Shikshan Prayog are helping women in Tuljapur set up home businesses — which include making chivda from soya, rearing goats and rearing the Kadaknath chicken, whose eggs are sold for as much as Rs 40 apiece.

But, what is the Kadaknath chicken? The Kadaknath is mostly found in eastern Madhya Pradesh — especially around Jhabua and Dhar. Its flesh is black in colour, thanks to a higher melanin content. Once reared mainly by tribal communities such as the Bhils, its gamey meat is highly prized as an aphrodisiacal delicacy and as a restorative.

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“The Kadaknath is highly disease resistant and a hardy bird. Unlike broiler chicken, it can survive and even thrive on kitchen waste. It is also a semi-scavenger and an ideal ally for farmers who are looking to supplement their income. In fact, we have received many queries from areas about Kadaknath such as Marathwada and Nagpur,” says S Ganesan, director-in-charge of the Central Poultry Development Organisation (Northern Region), in Chandigarh. Ganesan adds that the Kadaknath is a healthier alternative to broiler chicken. “It has more protein, less fat and its meat contains less cholesterol than regular chicken.” The CPDO is among the agencies that is working towards making Kadaknath more popular in the country and supplies chicks to farmers in rural areas across the country. Compared to broiler chicken, the Kadaknath also has a lower Feed Conversion Ratio. “The Kadaknath converts feed quickly into meat — unlike broiler chicken, which also requires an energy-rich diet to sustain itself,” says Satish Kumar, who runs Rudras Breeders, in Jolarpettai, Tamil Nadu. Kumar says that he has delivered around 1,000 chicks to farmers in Latur and other parts of Marathwada. Kadaknath meat fetches around Rs 600 per kg, says Kumar.

The Kadaknath is, of course, not the only black chicken in the world. China has the Silkie chicken and Indonesia the Avam Cemani. In an interview to Mint newspaper, Delhi-based chef and author Ashish Chopra said that when cooked in the right way, the Kadaknath chicken can be delicious. “A good comparison would be the partridge — the hunting of which was not illegal a couple of decades ago — or other game meat,” Chopra told Mint. “Like the jungle fowl, it takes a long time to become tender. It’s usually cooked with skin on a slow fire for at least 2 hours.”

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