City: Naples

Key Ultra Groups: CUCB (Commando Ultras Curva B), Ultras Napoli, Fedayn.

Other Ultra Groups: Masseria, Blue Tiger, Nucleo, Old Clan 91, South Boys, Cobra, Wanted, La Iene, Mastiffs, Teste Matte, Vecchi Lions, Brigata Carolina, Ultra Girls, Ladies Napoli

On the afternoon of May 1oth, 1987, a deathly quiet fell over the city of Naples. The streets were desolate, prompting Italian anthropologist Amalia Signorelli to write “The world had changed, the noisiest, most crowded and most chaotic city in Europe was deserted.”

But on occasion, murmurings could be heard. They were the cheers and jeers of the Stadio San Paolo. The world may not have changed, but S.S.C Napoli were on the brink of winning their first Serie A title in 61-years. A 1-1 draw with Fiorentina secured Napoli’s triumph. The city erupted. Exultant Neapolitan’s poured onto the streets. Days of partying began. Fans danced on rooftops, fireworks exploded, cars and buildings were draped in sky blue.

In his book, Calcio, John Foot observed that “During the celebrations, Napoli fans displayed all the classic traits of what has become known as the Neapolitan ‘character’: irony, parody and a sense of the macabre, obscenity and blasphemy.” On the walls of the city’s graveyard, graffiti appeared in vernacular ‘Guagliu! E che ve sit pers!’, ‘Guys! You don’t know what you are missing.’ Satirical funerals were arranged for Juventus. The supporters paid homage to their heroes and one man stood above all others as the saviour of Naples – Diego Armando Maradona.

The use of religiously infused language here is no coincidence. To this day, Maradona is awarded god like status in the city. During the Argentinian’s spell at Napoli the club won their only two Scudetti as well as a UEFA Cup in 1989. This prompted cult like adoration. Thousands of babies were named Diego or even Diega while streets and neighbourhoods also took the revered name. Murals were made comparing him to the city’s patron saint San Gennaro. One even depicted him in the arms of the saint himself.

His humble background and ‘rebellious’ nature struck a chord with the Napoletani. His passion, volatility and footballing genius reflected Neapolitan character. In a sense, Maradona became an adopted son of Naples.

But perhaps more importantly, the Argentinian had helped Napoli break the overwhelming dominance established by the affluent Northern trio of Juventus, AC Milan and Inter. At a time when the hostile, anti-southern politics of northern regionalist parties such as Lega Nord were taking hold in the terraces of northern clubs, Maradona restored pride to the ‘downtrodden’ city of Naples. The Napoletani now had a riposte to the anti-Neapolitan rhetoric. It was smug and simple: ‘May 1987, the other Italy has been defeated, a new empire is born.’ And Napoli’s fanatical support still revel in the memories of a time when the giants of the North were humbled by a resurgent Naples.

The Partenopei are the fourth-best-supported team in Italy and their following also extends to various corners of the globe. According to Italian sports journalist Domenico Carratelli, Napoli is a club that “…brings people together from all walks of life, rich and poor alike. It is the people’s team.” Surprisingly, barring their transient success in the late 1980’s, there is a paucity of major honours. Nevertheless, this has rarely detracted from the devotion of their support and even after the club went bankrupt and were relegated to Serie C1 back in 2004, they broke divisional records for attendance, with numbers in excess of 50,000. One urban myth claims that the roar of the crowd celebrating a Napoli goal at the San Paolo has occasionally been registered on the seismographs at the cities Federico II University.

The story of Napoli’s Ultras is perhaps best summarised as a tale of two Curva’s, Curva A (the north bend) and Curva B (the south). Over time, the Curva A has assumed a more prominent role and has been home to a variety of groups including: Mastiffs, Vecchi Lions, Teste Matte and Brigata Carolina. Yet, a divide has always characterised the relationship between Curva A and B, with the former being notoriously riotous and the latter more ‘tranquil’. This, however, only serves to rouse one of the most charged atmospheres in Serie A.

The Azzurri’s first Ultra group to create match-day choreographies were the Commandos Ultras Curva B (CUCB). Founded in 1972 by Gennaro Montuori, AKA ‘Palummella’, the group quickly established themselves by creating their own newspaper and television programme. During their existence, CUCB allegedly denounced violence, a sentiment reflected in a banner they unveiled back in the 1980’s: ‘Violence divides us, our passion unites us.’ According to Signorelli, who authored Popular Culture in Naples, this period also saw the inception of women’s Ultra groups, including Ultra Girls and Ladies Napoli, the latter formed by University lecturers.

Unsurprisingly, the CUCB ‘glory days’ came during the Azzurri’s Scudetto winning years. The archaic San Paolo would bounce to the rhythm of ‘Porompompero’ while the Ultras ubiquitous presence at away games would ensure that a pocket of an Italian stadium would be transformed into a mini-Naples for the afternoon.

However the departure of ‘Palummella’, supposedly due to the death of his brother, caused CUCB to disband. As a result Fedayn (1979) and Ultras Napoli monopolised the Curva B. The two have lived an uncomfortable coexistence, with both refusing to chant in tandem. Fedayn’s more belligerent reputation saw them receive an invitation to join the Curva A, their slogan ‘Estranei alla Massa’ – ‘Outside the Norm’ encapsulating their intransigence. Indeed the Fedayn’s reputation makes the Curva B’s more ‘serene’ tag somewhat risible.

While Napoli’s ultras have often declared themselves apolitical, the historic and cultural divide between North and South has dictated some of their fiercest rivalries. Historian Nicholas Doumanis, has argued that the northern and southern halves of Italy appear in social, cultural and economic terms to be two very different countries. Parties like Lega Nord have even advocated secession from the south altogether. The Napoletani are frequently subjected to territorial discrimination and insults range from the city being destroyed by their neighbouring volcano Vesuvius, to the people being dirty and carrying cholera. Fixtures against Juventus, Hellas Verona, AC Milan and Inter are particularly explosive.

That said, irony is not lost on the Neapolitans and regional rivalries can always be put to one side when there is a chance to decry the Italian authorities. Thus when supporters of their Northern foes were hit with stadium bans for territorial discrimination during the 2013/14 Serie A season, the Partenopei faithful mocked the Italian Football Federation’s decisions with a banner reading “[We are] Naples cholera-sufferers. Now close our curva!”

For all this bravado, these rivalries also reveal the more sinister elements of Italian football and Napoli’s ultras have been involved in some deplorable violence. On May 3rd, 2014, people tuned into the Coppa Italia final between Napoli and Fiorentina only to witness scenes of anarchy and chaos. Violent clashes between opposition fans had delayed the games kick-off. Three Napoli fans were hospitalised. One, Ciro Esposito, would die from gunshot wounds after weeks in a critical condition.

It later emerged that the Napoletani had clashed with A.S. Roma fans, despite the Giallorossi not even participating in the final. A Roma ultra, Daniele De Santis, was later charged with the death of Esposito. There is no love lost between Napoli and Roma, a game which according to a life-long Napoli fan, is one of the most hostile in Italy because unlike their Northern rivals, their hatred is concentrated solely on football.

The other enduring image was that of, Gennaro De Tommaso, also known as Genny ‘the swine’. Said to be an Ultras leader in the Curva A, reports circulated that he was the man charged with talking to Napoli captain, Marek Hamsik, about having the game postponed as rumours swept the stadium that Esposito had died. The game went ahead and Rome’s police commissioner would later deny there had been any negotiation. Massimo Mazza claimed police had merely asked Hamsik to inform the fans of Esposito’s condition.

Having already been banned from attending stadiums for five years, De Tommaso was arrested in September along with four other Ultras for their involvement in the Coppa Italia final, with charges including ‘throwing hazardous materials and invasion of a pitch at a sporting event.’ The incident made for a chilling spectacle and people like De Tommaso bring shame upon Il Calcio.

While Napoli’s Ultras cannot be held accountable for the actions of mindless individuals, their violent reputation is not fabricated. Thus one is left at odds. On the one hand there is no place for such criminal behaviour, let alone in football. On the other, without the Ultras we wouldn’t enjoy the moments that make spines tingle and hairs stand on end. Moments such as the famed repetition of ‘Gonzalooo Higuaín’ nine times while the decrepit walls of the Stadio San Paolo shudder.

The famous expression: ‘See Naples and die’ portrays the beauty and excitement of this city. After playing against Napoli for Manchester City, Ivory Coast midfielder Yaya Toure observed that the relationship between the Napoletani and their team was visceral, comparable to the love shown between a mother and her son. It is this passion that produces one of the most awe-inspiring yet intimidating atmospheres in European football.

Written by Luca Hodges-Ramon - @LH_Ramon25