TigerWalk68 Registered User

Join Date: May 2012 Posts: 7

1968 Porsche 912 Coupe















Photobucket link to >100 pics



http://s297.photobucket.com/user/Smokin_M1/library/1968%20Porsche%20912







Here are a couple short videos:



http://youtu.be/JvGR9bgZk6M



http://youtu.be/aeKaEUKfTNo







For sale is my 1968 Porsche 912. Engine number 1282980 VIN number 12803094. I do not have a COA but, these numbers fall within the ranges of the cars listed above and below it on the 912vin.com website. I have owned this car for around three years. I am not a car dealer. It is a nice driver quality car and not a show car. I enjoy tinkering with old German air cooled cars and this has been my project and has kept me out of trouble. I'll go over everything I know about this little 912 short wheel base, long hood Porsche then please read my long winded description. Ask questions and I'll be glad to answer as best I can. Thanks, Scott.







History. I purchased it from a gentleman in Oregon approximately three years ago and had it shipped to me in Huntsville, Alabama. The previous owner was a car / body painter and he painted the car a 1996 Porsche Metallic Silver. The original color according to the car's body tag number is Cocoa (#6837) which is light brown and pretty rare. Beyond the previous owner's history I know nothing and haven't done any research.





Paint. The paint is approximately seven years old and is far from show quality. The previous owner did a windows out paint job. He said he had it media blasted to bare metal. I have pictures of some of the work-in-progress. Presently, it is showing signs of age with some scratches and imperfections. I would give it about a 6 on a 10 scale. It's not show quality, but nice enough that you don't want to park it near the front at your local Wally-world. I usually strategically park it where I can at least protect one side. Here is link to discussion on Cocoa Brown, which might be a special order:



Cocoa Brown on a 69 Targa







Body. When I purchased the car I immediately saw that it needed new floorboards. This initially was the only rust I could find. I purchased Stoddard floor pans and had them installed by a local restoration shop. They did a good to above average job. After receiving the car back I cleaned up some of the welds by grinding them flush. I then proceeded to add seam sealer and POR-15 on the pans. When I removed the interior I found a few rust spots. There were two quarter sized holes beneath the rear vent windows. I cut out the spots and welded in patches and ground the welds. In the linked photos are some of the repairs. I think I did a pretty good job. The only other rust I've seen is in the small brackets near the front of the inner drivers side rear fender. Door gaps are just ok. Front trunk gap is good. Rear deck gap is just ok and rubs a little on the back. Trunk and hood have new pumps/shocks installed.







Windows and Seals. All windows have sekurit markings except the front windshield which has a PGW logo. The front windshield shows no cracks or chips. The back and side glass show scratches. As a driver it doesn't bother me. It might bother you. I replaced the driver and passenger door window felt and weather strip. It does not leak water when I wash or drive in the rain (yes I do drive this car). I rebuilt both DS and PS window crank mechanisms and they roll up and down as they should. The vent windows need to be rebuilt with new weatherstrip. The door and window chrome is faded and needs to be restored if it bothers you. I installed new front and rear turn signal lens rubber seals and new headlight seals. New hood (trunk) seal installed.







Engine - long block. When I received the car it burned oil (smoked) and made unwelcome noises; the hazards of buying a car cross country, even though I talked to the PO's mechanic before purchase. Anyway, being the astute mechanic that I am I removed the engine and proceeded to tear it down. What I found was a broken piston ring and spun rod bearing; both on cylinder #2. I went ahead and did a full rebuild with the following. I have all the receipts of course.







* Reground crank. The machine shop (R&R speed shop) stated it was its first grind. New bearings.

* Reconditioned rods. New bearings pressed in.

* New pistons, cylinders and rings (big bore).

* Cylinder heads rebuilt by the best Porsche heads machinist in the U.S., Hoffman Automotive Machine in Atlanta Georgia. New valves, seats, springs etc. "the works" including cc-ing the chambers for correct compression chamber calculations.

* Cam and tappets were in great shape so they were reused.

* Case did not need to be line-bored so it is still the original size (this is good).

* Rebuilt rocker arm assembly done at competition engineering (Walt Watson).

* Engine assembly was performed by a local Porsche mechanic (

* New seals / gaskets obviously.







Engine - other.



* Rebuilt Bosch 022 distributor. This is a nice one made new again by Glenn Ring, not a crappy 009 seen on other 912s and VWs.

* New starter.

* New Generator.

* Rebuilt Weber IDF 40's. I don't have the original Solex's or air cleaners.

* New pulley.

* New Bosch coil.

* New cap, plugs and wires.

* Engine tin was sandblasted and painted.

* Rebuilt fan assembly.

* New oil lines.

* New voltage regulator.

* Rebuilt original mechanical fuel pump.

* New J-tubes and Bursch exhaust.







Electrical. Original wiring looks largely untouched / hacked except the wiring to the rear license plate lights. I've replaced the front and rear turn signal lenses with new ones. I sent the clock to North Hollywood and had the internals replaced with modern innards and had it externally restored. They also restored the speedometer and I installed a new speedometer cable. The other instruments are un-restored, but are functional, and look like it. The red and green lights (for charging and oil pressure) blink on when key is turned 'on' and go off when engine is started (as they should). The turn signals, brake lights, headlights, drivers lights and backup lights work. The interior left indicator light on dash works intermittently. The right functions normally. The emergency flashers and cigarette lighter do not work. The interior dome light work and new switches installed. The battery is about a year old. New brake light switch installed. Windshield wipers function normally in both speeds. The original radio does not work. The horn works.







Interior. When I replaced the pans I cleaned the old carpet and padding out and installed a DynaMat type sound deadener from front to back including package tray and under rear vent windows. The doors got the same treatment. New carpet installed by me. I dyed the vinyl. The seats and door cards appear to be from an early 70's 911; I do not have the original ones. The dash has a crack. It has new coco floor mats (the expensive ones). It has new Rennlist pedal / foot boards (both DS and PS). The seat belts are cheap aftermarket, but will include the original ones.





Transaxle (5 speed). I have done nothing to the transaxle other than clean it and replace the fluid. I replaced the shift rod bushings (both front and rear).





Brakes / suspension. Brakes work great. I rebuilt the front DS caliper as it was sticking. It has Koni shocks in front, not sure in back. Car has been lowered to approximate euro height.





Wheels / Tires. The wheels are authentic 14" Fuchs, but probably not original to the car. The tires have plenty of tread. I won't guess as to a percentage of tread remaining.







If you've made it this far congrats. The car starts easily as long as it is cranked every other day or so. If it sits a week or longer, it takes a while for the carbs to fill up. I spent many hours tuning the Weber carbs. Using advice from online forums I replaced the main and idle jets, the emulsion tubes and chokes. It now has good power without hesitation throughout the RPM range. I've put approximately 2500 miles on it since the engine rebuild. It drives and handles great. The 4 cylinder is peppy, but not fast like the 911 motor. It will keep up with modern traffic, but don't race that Minivan next to you. Rattles are pretty minimum except there's one on the driver side vent window mechanism, so I usually leave it closed. Owning on old Porsche is not for everyone, if you don't enjoy adjusting the valves and carbs and other tinkering you might want to get something else. It's not rocket science though and you can learn. Buyer to pay shipping, but will be glad to help at pickup. Thanks, feel free to call at decent hours. Scott Cell - 256-656-9625 Photobucket link to >100 picsFor sale is my 1968 Porsche 912. Engine number 1282980 VIN number 12803094. I do not have a COA but, these numbers fall within the ranges of the cars listed above and below it on the 912vin.com website. I have owned this car for around three years. I am not a car dealer. It is a nice driver quality car and not a show car. I enjoy tinkering with old German air cooled cars and this has been my project and has kept me out of trouble. I'll go over everything I know about this little 912 short wheel base, long hood Porsche then please read my long winded description. Ask questions and I'll be glad to answer as best I can. Thanks, Scott.I purchased it from a gentleman in Oregon approximately three years ago and had it shipped to me in Huntsville, Alabama. The previous owner was a car / body painter and he painted the car a 1996 Porsche Metallic Silver. The original color according to the car's body tag number is Cocoa (#6837) which is light brown and pretty rare. Beyond the previous owner's history I know nothing and haven't done any research.The paint is approximately seven years old and is far from show quality. The previous owner did a windows out paint job. He said he had it media blasted to bare metal. I have pictures of some of the work-in-progress. Presently, it is showing signs of age with some scratches and imperfections. I would give it about a 6 on a 10 scale. It's not show quality, but nice enough that you don't want to park it near the front at your local Wally-world. I usually strategically park it where I can at least protect one side. Here is link to discussion on Cocoa Brown, which might be a special order:When I purchased the car I immediately saw that it needed new floorboards. This initially was the only rust I could find. I purchased Stoddard floor pans and had them installed by a local restoration shop. They did a good to above average job. After receiving the car back I cleaned up some of the welds by grinding them flush. I then proceeded to add seam sealer and POR-15 on the pans. When I removed the interior I found a few rust spots. There were two quarter sized holes beneath the rear vent windows. I cut out the spots and welded in patches and ground the welds. In the linked photos are some of the repairs. I think I did a pretty good job. The only other rust I've seen is in the small brackets near the front of the inner drivers side rear fender. Door gaps are just ok. Front trunk gap is good. Rear deck gap is just ok and rubs a little on the back. Trunk and hood have new pumps/shocks installed.All windows have sekurit markings except the front windshield which has a PGW logo. The front windshield shows no cracks or chips. The back and side glass show scratches. As a driver it doesn't bother me. It might bother you. I replaced the driver and passenger door window felt and weather strip. It does not leak water when I wash or drive in the rain (yes I do drive this car). I rebuilt both DS and PS window crank mechanisms and they roll up and down as they should. The vent windows need to be rebuilt with new weatherstrip. The door and window chrome is faded and needs to be restored if it bothers you. I installed new front and rear turn signal lens rubber seals and new headlight seals. New hood (trunk) seal installed.When I received the car it burned oil (smoked) and made unwelcome noises; the hazards of buying a car cross country, even though I talked to the PO's mechanic before purchase. Anyway, being the astute mechanic that I am I removed the engine and proceeded to tear it down. What I found was a broken piston ring and spun rod bearing; both on cylinder #2. I went ahead and did a full rebuild with the following. I have all the receipts of course.* Reground crank. The machine shop (R&R speed shop) stated it was its first grind. New bearings.* Reconditioned rods. New bearings pressed in.* New pistons, cylinders and rings (big bore).* Cylinder heads rebuilt by the best Porsche heads machinist in the U.S., Hoffman Automotive Machine in Atlanta Georgia. New valves, seats, springs etc. "the works" including cc-ing the chambers for correct compression chamber calculations.* Cam and tappets were in great shape so they were reused.* Case did not need to be line-bored so it is still the original size (this is good).* Rebuilt rocker arm assembly done at competition engineering (Walt Watson).* Engine assembly was performed by a local Porsche mechanic ( http://www.martinsclassiccars.com/ * New seals / gaskets obviously.* Rebuilt Bosch 022 distributor. This is a nice one made new again by Glenn Ring, not a crappy 009 seen on other 912s and VWs.* New starter.* New Generator.* Rebuilt Weber IDF 40's. I don't have the original Solex's or air cleaners.* New pulley.* New Bosch coil.* New cap, plugs and wires.* Engine tin was sandblasted and painted.* Rebuilt fan assembly.* New oil lines.* New voltage regulator.* Rebuilt original mechanical fuel pump.* New J-tubes and Bursch exhaust.Original wiring looks largely untouched / hacked except the wiring to the rear license plate lights. I've replaced the front and rear turn signal lenses with new ones. I sent the clock to North Hollywood and had the internals replaced with modern innards and had it externally restored. They also restored the speedometer and I installed a new speedometer cable. The other instruments are un-restored, but are functional, and look like it. The red and green lights (for charging and oil pressure) blink on when key is turned 'on' and go off when engine is started (as they should). The turn signals, brake lights, headlights, drivers lights and backup lights work. The interior left indicator light on dash works intermittently. The right functions normally. The emergency flashers and cigarette lighter do not work. The interior dome light work and new switches installed. The battery is about a year old. New brake light switch installed. Windshield wipers function normally in both speeds. The original radio does not work. The horn works.When I replaced the pans I cleaned the old carpet and padding out and installed a DynaMat type sound deadener from front to back including package tray and under rear vent windows. The doors got the same treatment. New carpet installed by me. I dyed the vinyl. The seats and door cards appear to be from an early 70's 911; I do not have the original ones. The dash has a crack. It has new coco floor mats (the expensive ones). It has new Rennlist pedal / foot boards (both DS and PS). The seat belts are cheap aftermarket, but will include the original ones.I have done nothing to the transaxle other than clean it and replace the fluid. I replaced the shift rod bushings (both front and rear).Brakes work great. I rebuilt the front DS caliper as it was sticking. It has Koni shocks in front, not sure in back. Car has been lowered to approximate euro height.The wheels are authentic 14" Fuchs, but probably not original to the car. The tires have plenty of tread. I won't guess as to a percentage of tread remaining.If you've made it this far congrats. The car starts easily as long as it is cranked every other day or so. If it sits a week or longer, it takes a while for the carbs to fill up. I spent many hours tuning the Weber carbs. Using advice from online forums I replaced the main and idle jets, the emulsion tubes and chokes. It now has good power without hesitation throughout the RPM range. I've put approximately 2500 miles on it since the engine rebuild. It drives and handles great. The 4 cylinder is peppy, but not fast like the 911 motor. It will keep up with modern traffic, but don't race that Minivan next to you. Rattles are pretty minimum except there's one on the driver side vent window mechanism, so I usually leave it closed. Owning on old Porsche is not for everyone, if you don't enjoy adjusting the valves and carbs and other tinkering you might want to get something else. It's not rocket science though and you can learn. Buyer to pay shipping, but will be glad to help at pickup. Thanks, feel free to call at decent hours. Scott Cell - 256-656-9625

Last edited by TigerWalk68; 03-12-2015 at 05:19 PM .. Reason: fix photobucket link