Nagpur:

In an effort to compile and preserve the rich culinary and cultural history of Maharashtra, the state government has published a 532 page

titled Maharashtracha Khadya Sanskriti Kosh. Released on February 27 by chief minister Devendra Fadnavis, the book gives the reader an interesting peak into the origins of many recipes and how they have been preserved over the centuries.

Discovering various facets and nuances of the state’s culture and food has been an enjoyable journey, says Anupama Ujgare who has researched and arranged the book. “There are so many stories behind various foods like faujdari amti of Jalgaon and the jowari bhakri,” she says.

“A girl would be judged by her skills in making jowari roti. If it swelled up she would pass,” says Ujgare citing a story written by Laxmibai Tilak. The food and the recipes have been preserved in songs, stories, folklore and also ukhane, the verses spun around the names of boys and girls at weddings. “Some of the surnames like Ambekar and Sakhare also have their origins in food,” she adds.

“The book contains authentic Maharashtrian food recipes which have been researched caste wise instead of area as every caste has its own peculiar way of preparing a dish,” says Sunanda Patil one of the co-authors.

“Maharashtrian women have a unique style of preparing food. This reflects even in those items which have not originated in this state,” she says, citing examples of dhokla which is from Gujarat but is prepared and served with a Maharashtrian twist within the state.

There is a tendency to preserve authentic recipes among Maharashtrians, she says. “There was a lot of fusion happening in olden times too. So pooran ki roti is also made with moong dal, which is a popular filling in the north,” she explains.

Adding his own documentation of state’s food to the compilation, celebrity chef Vishnu Manohar, who too has co-authored the book says that he has culled content from the twelve volumes of Marathi Vishwa Kosh and also the works of Sayajirao Maharaj of Vadodra. Pune, Sangli, Kolhapur and parts of Vidarbha have been known for their rich variety of food.

“Maharashtrian food got enriched and evolved during the times of Peshwas. They were so finicky that fingers were washed in saffron water before trying out various sweets to avoid mixing of flavours,” he said, adding ,

“The influence of Telangi acharis (cooks from Telengana) is also seen in Idirika, a variant of idili, sambhar, and dal vada (of inferior quality of urad dal) were cooked and served here since ancient ti

mes.”