I refuse to put up with the crazy access to the low beam headlight bulb, partly because I want to go to a brighter, short lifespan bulb, but mostly because I hate the idea of having to repeatedly remove the snap clips holding on the inner fender liner or bumper cover. It seems like every time, one or 3 clips break; they are not a robust reusable fastener. So I installed a 4" Marine Inspection Port on my inner fender liner, just unscrew the port and reach in and change the bulb. Like it should be.Installation time, 12 minutes, including deciding where to put it. Subsequent removal and silicone caulking took about 10 more minutes. Works great, still have to twist around to change the bulb, probably no worse than the inner fender liner removal method, without having to undo any clips or remove the wheel.Below I describe installation on the passenger side wheel well. Have not tried the driver side yet, will soon. Don't need to jack the car or remove the wheel.Stuff you need:4" Inspection port from West Marine, $12.99 eachShort screwdriverUtility Knife, with fresh blade5 - #8 x .5" pan head screws1- #8 x .75 or 1" pan head screw (or leave one hole empty like I did)100% Silicone caulkTake the port out of the hole, and hold it up inside the fender to mark where you need to cut. I put it as high as I dared, and all the way to the passenger side (right) of the fender, until I bumped into the side. This removes a funny protrusion from the fender liner, for a fairly flat installation area. Leaving the fender dirty at this point helps you see your scribe line:Scribed line:Cutting out the hole:Ring in place, ready to screw down (-ish. Rotate the ring until you get the max number of screw holes in a spot you can use them. I was able to get 5 to line up to flatter areas. No big deal if you miss, just use a longer screw):Installing screws:Finished (almost, still needs caulking and one longer screw):View from inside engine compartment. I thought about putting the access side inside here, to keep it clean, but then I dropped the hatch down the fender and decided I didn't want to have to dig for the lid if I dropped it. And the screws would be nearly inaccessible to install. Could use nuts and bolts, but I didn't have any on hand, just wanted this done:The next day, I removed, cleaned around the hole with isopropal alcohol, and caulked with 100% silicone. Two spots need extra caulk, I pre filled them, then caulked the ring, screwed it back on. The screws install with no pre-drilling, the plastic is soft enough. Knifing out the hole is easy too, and you have a wide flange to cover up any wandering blade, within reason (well, within about .75 inch, actually).Changing the bulb itself took another 15 or 20 minutes, as this was my first one, so I had to learn it by feel, and constantly taking my arm out of the hole and looking in with a flash light. Next one should only take about 5 minutes total.NOTE: When using this hatch after driving and coating it with grime, you will need to flush the gunk out of the gap between the hatch and ring. You may also need to use some kind of wrench to start unscrewing it (I use channel locks open all the way, sideways).Hope this helps some one, I still don't know how they let this design fly with such horrible access.