In the evening, we will journey into the past at Mea Shearim and experience a fascinating culinary tour in this Hassidic Jewish quarter of Jerusalem, little more than a century old, but in the dress and customs of its inhabitants is surely an amazing surviving fragment of the world of Eastern European Jewry. “Like a city within a city, Mea Shearim is immersed in Jerusalem”, wrote the Israeli Literature Nobel Prize S.Y. Agnon. We will explore on foot Mea Shearim's tangle of courtyards and alleyways, a world unto itself, get to know the delicatessen with their herrings, pickled vegetables, tasty sweet cheese blintzes, sweet and spicy kugels, and observe the full swing of preparations for the coming Shabbat. On Thursday evening, the challa bakeries are working all night. Challah and feigelach - small sesame rolls - are prepared here by hand with ancestral skill and beauty, and baked in an old stone oven fixed in the wall. When these challahs, whose flavour and sweetness are unparalleled, emerge hot and fresh from the oven, dozens of trays are arranged in tiers. All night long, neighborhood residents stream in to choose a challah for Shabbat. (Visitors to this area are requested to dress modestly.)