



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_VUu_54l04







Now, there are a couple of other designs out there that do exactly the same thing in the end, but from what I have seen, this one draws some of the least current. This one also has less components than others.



Here is a list of what you need and where to get it. Remember that you need two of some components. Some of these parts can be bought at radio-shack. But Radio-Shack is evil and charges way too much because they are pretty much the only place to buy things locally. However, Radio-Shack does not contain ALL of these components. So you might as well buy everything online so that it ends up being cheaper. I recommend



- Battery case (two AAs) - these can be bought at House of Rip-offs *cough* sorry, I mean Radio-Shack. Mouser part# 534-2463. Digikey part# 2463K-ND

- C1 and C2 - These are polar electrolytic capacitors, 1uF. These are no longer available from Radio-Shack. Mouser part# 647-UVR1H010MDD. Digikey part# 493-1099-ND.

- D1 and D2 - Just your plain and simple diode. Mouser# 771-1N4148-T/R. Digikey# 568-1360-1-ND.

- J1 and J2 - 1/8" mono phone jacks. Buy these at Radio-Shack for convenience. Solder jumper wires to the pins of these. The polarity doesn't matter.

- P1 - 1/8 mono plug. Solder this piece to a length of speaker wire, then solder the other end to a jumper wire. Make sure you know which wire goes to the tip, and which end goes to the ring. Buy this with your jacks at Radio-Shack.

- Q1 - NPN Transistor. Mouser# 771-PN2222A. Digikey# 568-3992-ND

- R1 and R1 - 1M ohm resistors, .25 Watt (brown-black-green-gold bands) Mouser# 660-CF1/4C105J. Digikey# 1.0MQBK-ND

- R3 and R4 - 47K resistors, .25 Watt (yellow-violet-orange-gold) Mouser# 660-CF1/4C473J. Digikey# 47KQBK-ND.

- R5 - 33K resistor, .25 Watt (orange-orange-orange-gold) Mouser# 660-CF1/4C333J. Digikey# 33KQBK-ND.

- U1 - The 4001 CMOS logic chip and the brains of the circuit. Mouser# 863-MC14001BCPG. DigiKey#MC14001BCPGOS-ND

- Solderless breadboard - This specific part is only available at Radio-Shack. #276-003. You will need some jumper wires as well, I made mine out of paper-clips and some old wire I had laying around (staples will not work, the have a thin coating that insulates them). I suggest buying a jumper wire pack from Radio-Shack



First, lets take a look at our IC. The pin to the left of the notch at the top is pin one. the next is pin two and so on. (sorry, none of these pictures were very well taken)



Take your breadboard out and put in the IC, making sure to put pin 1 at hole E-10







-Place R1 across holes C-10 and C-16 (In my picture it is across A-10 and A-16, but it works better if you use C)

-R2 from H-11 to D-16

-R3 from G-10 to D-15

-R4 from I-10 to I-16

-Place C1 across holes D-12 to D-14 making sure that the long wire goes into D-14 and the short one goes to D-12.

-Place C2 across holes G-13 to G-15 making sure that the long wire goes into G-15 and the short one goes to G-13. (It is VERY important that the correct end goes in the correct hole)







-Place the NPN Transistor over holes C-19, C-20, and C-21, making sure the flat side is facing left.

-R5 from D-20 to F-20



Make some jump wires out of paper clips (the ones in this picture were actually staples, which do NOT work because of a plastic coating) and any old, small wires (these jumper wires can also be bought at radio-shack right next to where you buy the breadboard)



-Connect a jump wire from A-9 to the nearest hole along the blue line (They are all connected, so it doesn't matter which one, just any hole on the FAR left column)

-Jump from H-10 to blue-line hole

-Jump from A-16 to red-line hole (Any hole from the second column from the left)

-Jump from A-21 to red-line hole

-Place D1 across B-13 and B-17. Make sure the black line around the diode is facing down.

-Place D2 across J-14 and J-18. Make sure the black line around the diode is facing down.

-Jump from C-17 to G-20

-Jump from I-18 to I-20

-Jump from C-11 to C-13

-Jump from C-14 to C-15

-Jump from H-12 to H-14

-Jump from H-15 to H-16







-Place J1 across B-9 and B-10

-J2 from J-10 to J-11

-Take your long wire connected to the 1/8 phone jack and plug the lead that connects to the tip to hole B-19, and the lead that connects to the shaft to hole B-21.



Connect the red wire from your battery pack to the top hole of the far left column (blue line), and the black wire to the next column (red line).







Please alert me to any mistakes. It took me hours to write this, most of it was late at night. It is possible I have made some small errors. As most of us know, you can't make a double bass pedal just by using a headphone splitter. If you use a headphone splitter, the game does not register any hits if you have one pedal pressed down already. The following circuit solves that problem. You can see the circuit in action at...Now, there are a couple of other designs out there that do exactly the same thing in the end, but from what I have seen, this one draws some of the least current. This one also has less components than others.Here is a list of what you need and where to get it. Remember that you need two of some components. Some of these parts can be bought at radio-shack. But Radio-Shack is evil and charges way too much because they are pretty much the only place to buy things locally. However, Radio-Shack does not contain ALL of these components. So you might as well buy everything online so that it ends up being cheaper. I recommend www.mouser.com or www.digikey.com (two AAs) - these can be bought at House of Rip-offs *cough* sorry, I mean Radio-Shack. Mouser part# 534-2463. Digikey part# 2463K-ND- These are polar electrolytic capacitors, 1uF. These are no longer available from Radio-Shack. Mouser part# 647-UVR1H010MDD. Digikey part# 493-1099-ND.- Just your plain and simple diode. Mouser# 771-1N4148-T/R. Digikey# 568-1360-1-ND.- 1/8" mono phone jacks. Buy these at Radio-Shack for convenience. Solder jumper wires to the pins of these. The polarity doesn't matter.- 1/8 mono plug. Solder this piece to a length of speaker wire, then solder the other end to a jumper wire. Make sure you know which wire goes to the tip, and which end goes to the ring. Buy this with your jacks at Radio-Shack.- NPN Transistor. Mouser# 771-PN2222A. Digikey# 568-3992-ND- 1M ohm resistors, .25 Watt (brown-black-green-gold bands) Mouser# 660-CF1/4C105J. Digikey# 1.0MQBK-ND- 47K resistors, .25 Watt (yellow-violet-orange-gold) Mouser# 660-CF1/4C473J. Digikey# 47KQBK-ND.- 33K resistor, .25 Watt (orange-orange-orange-gold) Mouser# 660-CF1/4C333J. Digikey# 33KQBK-ND.- The 4001 CMOS logic chip and the brains of the circuit. Mouser# 863-MC14001BCPG. DigiKey#MC14001BCPGOS-ND- This specific part is only available at Radio-Shack. #276-003. You will need some jumper wires as well, I made mine out of paper-clips and some old wire I had laying around (staples will not work, the have a thin coating that insulates them). I suggest buying a jumper wire pack from Radio-Shack http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103801&cp=&sr=1&origkw=breadboard&kw=breadboard&parentPage=search First, lets take a look at our IC. The pin to the left of the notch at the top is pin one. the next is pin two and so on. (sorry, none of these pictures were very well taken)Take your breadboard out and put in the IC, making sure to put pin 1 at hole E-10-Place R1 across holes C-10 and C-16 (In my picture it is across A-10 and A-16, but it works better if you use C)-R2 from H-11 to D-16-R3 from G-10 to D-15-R4 from I-10 to I-16-Place C1 across holes D-12 to D-14 making sure that the long wire goes into D-14 and the short one goes to D-12.-Place C2 across holes G-13 to G-15 making sure that the long wire goes into G-15 and the short one goes to G-13. (It is VERY important that the correct end goes in the correct hole)-Place the NPN Transistor over holes C-19, C-20, and C-21, making sure the flat side is facing left.-R5 from D-20 to F-20Make some jump wires out of paper clips (the ones in this picture were actually staples, which do NOT work because of a plastic coating) and any old,wires (these jumper wires can also be bought at radio-shack right next to where you buy the breadboard)-Connect a jump wire from A-9 to the nearest hole along the blue line (They are all connected, so it doesn't matter which one, just any hole on the FAR left column)-Jump from H-10 to blue-line hole-Jump from A-16 to red-line hole (Any hole from the second column from the left)-Jump from A-21 to red-line hole-Place D1 across B-13 and B-17. Make sure the black line around the diode is facing down.-Place D2 across J-14 and J-18. Make sure the black line around the diode is facing down.-Jump from C-17 to G-20-Jump from I-18 to I-20-Jump from C-11 to C-13-Jump from C-14 to C-15-Jump from H-12 to H-14-Jump from H-15 to H-16-Place J1 across B-9 and B-10-J2 from J-10 to J-11-Take your long wire connected to the 1/8 phone jack and plug the lead that connects to the tip to hole B-19, and the lead that connects to the shaft to hole B-21.Connect the red wire from your battery pack to the top hole of the far left column (blue line), and the black wire to the next column (red line).Please alert me to any mistakes. It took me hours to write this, most of it was late at night. It is possible I have made some small errors.



Last edited by Bobmandudething on Sun Mar 02, 2008 4:50 am; edited 6 times in total