“I’m not the food police, but I like opening the vegan door for people,” said Tony Yanow, the entrepreneur behind the brewery, as well as Mohawk Bend and Tony’s Darts Away, which serve dishes like a “vegan tailgate dog” and Buffalo-style cauliflower florets. “People will order food like that because it tastes good.”

Vegans and carnivores used to glare at one another in militant opposition, but Southern California is reveling in a sort of can’t-we-all-get-along cross-pollination that you see at Cru in the Silver Lake neighborhood, where meat lovers marvel over the pumpkinseed chorizo. At Craig’s, a vegan grilled-eggplant caponata shares menu space with a dish called Jerry Weintraub’s Spaghetti Clam Show, both of which might be viewed as gentle ways to woo the A-listers.

Not long ago, Ms. DeGeneres asked Mr. Susser if he would try a vegan spin on chicken parmigiana. The dish appeared on the menu in September, with a patty of Gardein, a protein substitute, standing in for chicken. “I’m willing to do anything,” said Mr. Susser, something of an expert in celebrity relations. “I want them here, and I want them happy.”

Ms. Freston, who recently separated from the media executive Tom Freston after 14 years of marriage, is friendly with just about every famous vegan in Hollywood. Lately there are quite a few, and they’ve changed the power dynamic enough that celebrating a box-office triumph over bountiful platters of charred flesh is no longer necessarily appetizing to the stars who helped bring in the money.

“That old meat bravado is dead,” Ms. Freston said.

It wasn’t always thus — not even in the city where Alvy Singer, the protagonist in Woody Allen’s “Annie Hall,” winced as he ordered alfalfa sprouts and a plate of mashed yeast. When Ms. Freston began turning vegan about a decade ago, she said, “Nobody was interested in that.

“I remember Werner Herzog yelled at me at a dinner party when I first started going that way. He totally made fun of me. In the beginning I didn’t know anyone who was eating this way. It was totally uncool.”