It’s been a long 27 months for the owners of County BBQ, the Little Italy restaurant that’s remained shuttered since 2016 when a fire tore through the space. The cause of the kitchen fire officially remains under investigation as these probes tend to take time when insurance companies and other parties are involved. But the process is wrapping up and DMK Restaurants now plans to reopen County in December at 1352 W. Taylor Street.

“Finally is an understatement,” said co-owner Michael Kornick of DMK Restaurants.

Under the advice of the insurance company, Kornick said they’ve gutted the space. The new incarnation is a little smaller at 35 seats. The menu will be scaled down to start; they won’t offer the same amount of proteins. They held the same philosophy when County debuted in 2013. But expect the same recipes.

“We have a very loyal following,” Kornick said. “County has some beloved fans out there and didn’t want to shift in our approach so much so people won’t recognize the food.”

The biggest change is County has eliminated table service due to space constraints. Customers will place their order at a counter and staff will let them know when their food is ready. It’s more like a meat and three format, Kornick explained, and they’ll use disposable plates and silverware. It’s a layout the many barbecue restaurants use, so it’s not a huge deal for DMK.

Sign up for the newsletter Eater Chicago Sign up for our newsletter. Email (required) By signing up, you agree to our Privacy Notice and European users agree to the data transfer policy. Subscribe

This isn’t the first restaurant fire Kornick has experienced. Back in 1995, Marché caught on fire on Randolph Street. It’s the same space where Nellcote currently operates. The damage wasn’t as extensive as Marché as it was at County. Marché was back and running in a few weeks.

The County space needed several upgrades to be brought up to current Chicago building code — the bathrooms had to be revamped and passage ways needed to become ADA compliant. Several aspects were grandfathered in, and didn’t meet existing standards. That accounted for part of the delays. Before County, the building housed Genarro’s Italian restaurant.

Despite the challenges, DMK never thought about abandoning the space, Kornick said. They believe Chicago doesn’t have enough good barbecue and hope that County fills a niche. Michelin ranked County on its Bib Gourmand list before the fire. The company may open additional County locations; DMK has already announced plans to expand its burger bars. But Kornick didn’t feel right about opening new locations until the original was back open.

Reopening a restaurant after a fire presents unusual challenges. But through the process, Kornick and company learned to appreciate an occasional joke. There’s something funny about a fire erupting in a barbecue restaurant.

“You can have a sense of humor only because no one was hurt,” Kornick said.

Check back for updates on an official opening date in the coming weeks.