It wasn’t long ago that pan pizzas were dowdy pies associated with chain restaurants, but I like to think that those of us who grew up savoring these thick-crusted pizzas always knew they had more potential. And now they’re getting their due: Respected pizzaiolas are finally giving these pies the same attention they’ve always lavished on thinner, more austere styles, and Americans are (re)acquiring a taste for them. Even Pizza Hut wants a better slice: The iconic chain recently revamped its signature pan pizza for the first time in decades.

If you ask me, the appeal of pan pizza is obvious. The crumb is thick, plush, and encased in a golden, crispy crust. The red sauce is thick and has a bright taste. And there’s plenty of gooey, stretchy cheese. My favorite versions include a rim of fused-to‑the-crust fried cheese called frico, a bonus feature that’s borrowed from Detroit-style pies. It’s also the easiest, most home cook–friendly pie you can make. In my recipe, there’s literally 1 minute of kneading and no rolling or stretching. And because it’s baked in a pan, there’s no dicey transfer of the topped dough to a hot baking stone. In fact, it doesn’t require any pizza‑specific equipment at all. Here’s how it works.