2 cups bean sprouts (mung are traditional) or slivered romaine leaves (chiffonade)

2 to 4 bird or serrano chiles, finely chopped (to taste) or 1/4 teaspoon cayenne (more or less to taste)

2 to 3 limes, cut in wedges

1. Have the broth at a simmer in a soup pot. Season to taste with cayenne if you are not using fresh chiles.

2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the noodles. Cook until just al dente, firm to the bite, following the timing instructions on the package (my wide noodles take about 5 minutes). Drain and divide among 6 large soup bowls.

3. Add the carrots and edamame to the simmering broth and simmer until just tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. Ladle a generous amount of hot broth with the carrots and edamame into the bowls. Divide the tofu among the bowls. Sprinkle on half the cilantro, half the basil leaves and the scallions or chives. Pass the bean sprouts or lettuce, chopped chiles if using, the remaining basil and cilantro (if using), mint sprigs, and the lime wedges. Serve with chopsticks for the noodles and soupspoons for the broth.

Yield: Serves 6

Advance preparation: The broth will keep for a few days in the refrigerator and can be frozen. The noodles can be cooked several hours ahead. Rinse them after draining and keep in a bowl. They will stick together after they cool but will loosen up when you reheat them in the broth. Just before serving reheat by dunking briefly into a pot of simmering water and draining (it helps to place them in a strainer or pasta pot insert).