JANUARY 20 — Malindo Air is named after the home countries of its joint venture partners, and my first flight on the airline took me to a state that took centre stage in post-colonial South-east Asia as the leaders and people of Malaya, Indonesia and the Philippines fought over competing concepts of Malaysia, Melayu Raya and Maphilindo, arguing from geographic convenience, ideological preferences and nostalgic irredentism.

Queuing for immigration at Kuching International Airport is the first reminder of Sarawak's autonomy, and it is an autonomy that in recent years has been strongly defended by the efforts of its late Chief Minister Tan Sri Adenan Satem, who tragically passed away while I was there.

He had led high profile campaigns in the interests of Sarawakians, including securing jobs and other guarantees from Petronas; demanding increased oil royalties; taking a new approach towards critical NGOs and the environment; defending the official use of English; and instructing Members of Parliament to vote against legislation he thought violated the spirit of the 1963 Malaysia Agreement.

Through these efforts he created cross-party unity that has no parallel in West Malaysia, and I observed the deep respect and genuine affection towards him from the people I met. I now appreciate why many West Malaysians yearn for leaders with the same mindset.

These political differences are symbiotic with wider cultural values expressed in the state, reflected in a powerful Sarawakian identity: Rooted not just in its constitutional position arising from past agreements, but also its unique history and particular demographics (people of many ethnic origins celebrate their additional identities while remaining proudly Sarawakian).

There are visible manifestations of this: I saw numerous cars carrying the slogan “Sarawak for Sarawakians,” accompanied by the flag or coat of arms of the former Kingdom of Sarawak. By contrast, on KL's roads you can see licence plates adorned with the stars of the European Union juxtaposed with peninsular state abbreviations, completely devoid of any historical meaning.

It might seem bewildering to a peninsular Malaysian why Sarawakians would want to celebrate the legacy of the White Rajahs, but that is because of our bewildering ignorance of Sarawakian history. Sarawak's annexation by the British Crown before its eventual incorporation into Malaysia is hardly understood by West Malaysians; let alone the idea that Sarawakians could ardently support independence under Brooke rule.

Perhaps catalysed by political dynamics, there may now be a greater thirst for Sarawakians to assert their own history, making up for what is seen as utterly inadequate treatment in the school curriculum.

The writer (right) at the Brooke Gallery with Brooke Trust director Jason Brooke.

At the four-month old Brooke Gallery at Fort Margherita — a collaboration between the Brooke Trust, the Sarawak Museum Department and the Sarawak Ministry of Tourism, Arts and Culture — I was given a tour by Jason Brooke, director of the Brooke Trust and grandson of the last Rajah Muda, who told me that enthusiasm from local visitors and volunteers has been remarkable.

Thoroughly curated and adorned by stunning artefacts including the former Sword of State, the exhibition tells a highly educational narrative of Brooke rule before ending with a gorgeous riverside view on the fort's roof. Perhaps others would wish to present different narratives; surely that would trigger fruitful discourse.

I was keen to catch a glimpse of the state's future too: after playing squash with the next generation of players at the Sarawak Club, I visited Tanoti Crafts, an award-winning social enterprise comprising women weavers and artisans that began as a workshop under Yayasan Tuanku Nur Zahirah.

Now privatised, I saw how traditional methods of Sarawak songket weaving are inspiring and supplying a new generation of discerning consumers and culturally-sensitive businesses. Later this year they hope to expand at Borneo 744, a vast new space for entrepreneurs and artists currently under construction.

Though I met hugely generous and diverse people in my short trip, three days in Kuching (and just one bowl of Sarawak laksa) is hardly enough. I will be back, and have tentatively agreed to climb Mount Santubong and kayak up the Rajang...

At the last national day celebrations, the late Tan Sri Adenan Satem said: “The state has no intention of wanting to weaken the Federation of Malaysia, as it is only claiming its rights enshrined under the Federal Constitution, Malaysia Agreement 1963, the Malaysia Act, the Inter-Governmental Reports and Recommendations and the Cobbold Commission Report... the willingness of the Prime Minister... to devolve power and return the autonomy powers of Sarawak, which has been eroded all this while, has enlivened the spirit of Sarawak to ensure Malaysia continues to remain strong.”

Bold words, and inspirational ones, for let us not forget that all the states of the peninsula, too, joined a federation based on agreement.

* Tunku Zain Al-'Abidin is founding president of IDEAS

** This is the personal opinion of the writer or publication and does not necessarily represent the views of Malay Mail Online.