Posted: 6/17/2015 10:57:07 PM EDT F r u i t y G h o s t





I get it that not everyone wants to get half-naked, sweaty and forge steel with your bare callous hands in some dark basement. That's ok and I want you to know that your inner gentle artiste can still make and shoot something very close to a real rifle.







Odin.



Start with an actual AR 100% receiver. It can be aluminum (#likealawnchair) or printed plastic. You may want to add your special touches like cover up the fire selector markings with clay (use non-sulfur clay) I would also highly suggest to put the trigger guard in place.







You need a box, something that can hold its dimensions and could be taken apart. I usually use aluminum (#likeabeercan) box.







But any enclosure can work, even one made from capitalist lego.







Its benefit, once mold is created it may be assembled anywhere in the world.







Dva.



With your box assembled, put receiver in the box and pour silicone mold rubber. Depending on how well box fits around your receiver, it may take around 1.5-2 lbs of rubber that can set you back $20-$30. You want to get something that cures to ShoreA 30-40 hardness.







I wrapped the mold box in grocery bag and tape to prevent accidental leakage. The rubber typically cures over night.







Now we take mold from mold box.







Somewhere inside, there is a receiver trapped in rubber.







Pull rubber and touch it with sharp blade. There is no pressure required to cut.







Now top is removed.







and a side







and another side







… leaving the middle piece







Now the magic begins as we put rubber pieces back







one







... at time







And the top piece get ripped another one … or actually the only one







Now, the piece is like it was never cut. But aluminum (#likebeercan) receiver is not inside. What is inside? … Fruity Ghost !







The box is rebuilt back again. It adds stiffabilty and prevent leakage.







Tree.



You now take two part urethane plastic and White House Pink pigment to match your range dress. Mix and pour and go eat celery flavored tofu for 10 min.



I tried different plastics. The plastic will set you back anywhere $2-$3 (is tiny receiver!) Wait for plastic to cure. The receiver can be extradited in 5-15 min for most plastics, longer for others. Some plastics will take another week to hardened completely.







When plastic hardens, take apart mold.







You may see flashing. Is no trouble, it's very thin.











Extract your receiver. Is complete.











If mold was made good, all the threads will be perfect with 0 clean up. Pop that FCG in and go shooting bullets, almost like scale copy of the real rifle of most glorious Mosin.







You may say “Dies ist nicht eine waffe des krieges!” … no, actually I'd say that, you would say something more like “tre bon! Magnifique! Garçon m'a apporter un autre bagguette et plus de fromage!







If you think that plastic receivers are waste of time consider that worm hearts organizing gun buy backs pay $50-$200 for any firearm. Since we got a fully bonified receiver (regulated by ATF and everything) you could be making a grand / hour easy. Starving artists will starve no more!







In fact, using just one mold, you can easily crank out 5 receivers/hour without breaking sweat or fingernail. That's over 100 receivers in 24h. Having a couple of molds help. The toughest choice are the colors and shades to use.



Is this receiver is the strongerest of all, will it stand up to torture tests? Who cares, f-it, just pull another one out the bucket. Aluminum (#likealawnchair) is stronger and steel stronger still, but all part of gun will wear off some time.







Here is the rifle that shot 300 rounds of 556. This is just plain, cheap plastic, no reinforcement of any kind. I use drop-in FCG module. The receiver failed on 308th round by Michael The AR Slayer shooting it with one hand (#tacticalsniper)







The softer receivers do have a problem of hole egging. Hammer and trigger holes will drift apart and after 100-150 rounds your rifle may fire more than a round … if you get my drift. To keep the holes together, you can reinforce them with steel or just get a drop-in trigger that comes with it's own little steel box … or just junk the receiver and make a dozen more.







One big advantage of cast over printed receivers is that mold can easily be used to include any type of reinforcement of any type. Steel or kevlar or gold sparkles (#notworkingwell)







IANAL but those who are ANAL reviewed BATFE 2015-1 ruling saying that people who manufacture drill bits that can used in guns-smithing are technically making guns. This mold, how BATFE would feel about it? Idk, I'm not good with feels.



This mold is not a firearm, but if you can mix whatever AR shooters drink drink, you can make your own receiver in 10min in every shade of your shoes.









How this shit compares to 3D printing?





Startup cost: $30 ($500 and up for 3D printing)

Startup cost: $30 ($500 and up for 3D printing)



Cost per receiver: $2.50 (about $25 for 3D printing or more for exotics)

Cost per receiver: $2.50 (about $25 for 3D printing or more for exotics)



Time to make a receiver: 10min (about 6h or more, depending on 3D printer)

Time to make a receiver: 10min (about 6h or more, depending on 3D printer)



Possibility to include reinforcement: Abso-fucking-lutely (not for 3D printing)

Possibility to include reinforcement: Abso-fucking-lutely (not for 3D printing)



And of course the main reason: all the fucking shades of freedom, from Congress Yellow to Bloomberg-soul black!









Of course some of you will tempt me to bitch slap them, saying: "yeah, but I like metal so much more" ... my fruity comrades, you can use this mold to cast your AR receiver in any metal from Aluminum (#likelawnchair) to staineless steel. How? ... that's a topic for another post, meanwhile all this vodka is not going to drink itself. I get it that not everyone wants to get half-naked, sweaty and forge steel with your bare callous hands in some dark basement. That's ok and I want you to know that your inner gentle artiste can still make and shoot something very close to a real rifle.Start with an actual AR 100% receiver. It can be aluminum (#likealawnchair) or printed plastic. You may want to add your special touches like cover up the fire selector markings with clay (use non-sulfur clay) I would also highly suggest to put the trigger guard in place.You need a box, something that can hold its dimensions and could be taken apart. I usually use aluminum (#likeabeercan) box.But any enclosure can work, even one made from capitalist lego.Its benefit, once mold is created it may be assembled anywhere in the world.With your box assembled, put receiver in the box and pour silicone mold rubber. Depending on how well box fits around your receiver, it may take around 1.5-2 lbs of rubber that can set you back $20-$30. You want to get something that cures to ShoreA 30-40 hardness.I wrapped the mold box in grocery bag and tape to prevent accidental leakage. The rubber typically cures over night.Now we take mold from mold box.Somewhere inside, there is a receiver trapped in rubber.Pull rubber and touch it with sharp blade. There is no pressure required to cut.Now top is removed.and a sideand another side… leaving the middle pieceNow the magic begins as we put rubber pieces backone... at timeAnd the top piece get ripped another one … or actually the only oneNow, the piece is like it was never cut. But aluminum (#likebeercan) receiver is not inside. What is inside? …The box is rebuilt back again. It adds stiffabilty and prevent leakage.You now take two part urethane plastic and White House Pink pigment to match your range dress. Mix and pour and go eat celery flavored tofu for 10 min.I tried different plastics. The plastic will set you back anywhere $2-$3 (is tiny receiver!) Wait for plastic to cure. The receiver can be extradited in 5-15 min for most plastics, longer for others. Some plastics will take another week to hardened completely.When plastic hardens, take apart mold.You may see flashing. Is no trouble, it's very thin.Extract your receiver. Is complete.If mold was made good, all the threads will be perfect with 0 clean up. Pop that FCG in and go shooting bullets, almost like scale copy of the real rifle of most glorious Mosin.You may say “Dies ist nicht eine waffe des krieges!” … no, actually I'd say that, you would say something more like “tre bon! Magnifique! Garçon m'a apporter un autre bagguette et plus de fromage!If you think that plastic receivers are waste of time consider that worm hearts organizing gun buy backs pay $50-$200 for any firearm. Since we got a fully bonified receiver (regulated by ATF and everything) you could be making a grand / hour easy. Starving artists will starve no more!In fact, using just one mold, you can easily crank out 5 receivers/hour without breaking sweat or fingernail. That's over 100 receivers in 24h. Having a couple of molds help. The toughest choice are the colors and shades to use.Is this receiver is the strongerest of all, will it stand up to torture tests? Who cares, f-it, just pull another one out the bucket. Aluminum (#likealawnchair) is stronger and steel stronger still, but all part of gun will wear off some time.Here is the rifle that shot 300 rounds of 556. This is just plain, cheap plastic, no reinforcement of any kind. I use drop-in FCG module. The receiver failed on 308th round by Michael The AR Slayer shooting it with one hand (#tacticalsniper)The softer receivers do have a problem of hole egging. Hammer and trigger holes will drift apart and after 100-150 rounds your rifle may fire more than a round … if you get my drift. To keep the holes together, you can reinforce them with steel or just get a drop-in trigger that comes with it's own little steel box … or just junk the receiver and make a dozen more.One big advantage of cast over printed receivers is that mold can easily be used to include any type of reinforcement of any type. Steel or kevlar or gold sparkles (#notworkingwell)IANAL but those who are ANAL reviewed BATFE 2015-1 ruling saying that people who manufacture drill bits that can used in guns-smithing are technically making guns. This mold, how BATFE would feel about it? Idk, I'm not good with feels.This mold is not a firearm, but if you can mix whatever AR shooters drink drink, you can make your own receiver in 10min in every shade of your shoes.How this shit compares to 3D printing?Of course some of you will tempt me to bitch slap them, saying: "yeah, but I like metal so much more" ... my fruity comrades, you can use this mold to cast your AR receiver in any metal from Aluminum (#likelawnchair) to staineless steel. How? ... that's a topic for another post, meanwhile all this vodka is not going to drink itself.