Cupcakes, cocktail sausages, sliders—miniature foods have an extra dose of adorability that makes them hard to resist. The same goes for small cheeses. They are just the right size to tear through in an evening, the smallest ones served individually, atop a salad, say. Slightly larger ones can be paired with fruit, some slivers of honeycomb and perhaps a Saison ale as dessert for a small group.

There is a relationship between the size of a cheese and its taste. It's difficult...