Experience

“Enjoying nature” isn’t an activity one would usually expect to be doing while visiting Bangkok. In fact, it’s probably the furthest thing from a jungle that comes to mind, unless of course it’s a concrete jungle you’re referring to.

Little known to many visitors (and perhaps even to some locals too), there is a massive part of the city which is completely covered in lush, green jungle! In fact, navigating the circumference of this area will take you approximately 20 kilometres around! With only a few roads, and a number of elevated sidewalks, there is very little traffic here, and it makes for an ideal terrain to cycle around over the course of a day. It is probably a bit too big to go only by foot, however, unless you are only planning on visiting a smaller portion of the protected lands.

My first impression on learning of this place was nearly one of disbelief. Although Bangkok has a lot of greenery – this tends to happen in most places in the tropics, nature finds a way – I would not have guessed there was a full on jungle in this mega-city. Upon arriving there, my feelings quickly changed to one of being at peace. The same as you would get from escaping city life to go to a cottage for a weekend. The best part is that it’s a lot closer than most people’s cottages are from a major city. This one’s actually IN the city.

The pier found at Wat Klong Toey (Klong Toey Temple) connects the ferries to the main part of the city. The ride is quite quick and only costs about 20 THB ($0.65 USD) to take the shuttle boat.

There’s a number of things to do while visiting Prapadaeng. Upon arriving via the Klong Toey ferry, there is a bike stand with dozens of bikes for rent. This is a great starting point for a biking adventure around Bangkok’s Green Lung. Bikes are available here for about 100 THB (roughly $3.50) for the day. Don’t expect much, however. These are really granny bikes with no gears and failing breaks. Try yours out first to make sure all the bells and whistles work prior to taking it on the road.

Upon arriving in Prapadaeng, only a short distance away from the pier, you will find a very odd place which is certainly worth a stop. There is a venue which can be used for hosting some neat events and has some camping and catering facilities, though the really unique part about it is that it’s main attraction is a Siamese Fighting Fish Gallery. There are hundreds of little round fishbowls housing the same number of fighting fish. A few other tanks with a variety of other aquatic creatures are scattered around the pagodas as well. All around the exterior of the grounds is a history on Prapadaeng as well as some info about the significance of the Siamese Fighting Fish.

Not far from here, there is a giant park, named Bang Krachao Park. The park is beautiful and full of trails to take your bike on, as well as having a very large pond. If this was the extent of your day, it would still be worthwhile for a relaxing day in a beautiful park, which ISN’T surrounded by busy city streets for a change. You’ll probably see a number of people picnicking, paddling around the mini-lake, and you might even spot a few giant monitor lizards sunning themselves.

If you choose to continue on, one of Prapadaeng’s key attractions is a short ride from here. The elevated sidewalks which bring you over a vast swamp land in the jungle. The paths are quite narrow, so please exercise caution if doing this leg of the ride. It would be more than a meter drop into the muck if you went over.

As you’re cycling through the actual Green Lung part of Prapadaeng, you will see a number of houses on stilts over the swamplands. The elevated sidewalk is essentially their lifeline to the world. Every now and then you’ll need to ‘carefully’ pull over and let a speeding scooter past you as they whip down the narrow winding sidewalks. This isn’t much different than trying to ride a bike in the city itself, except for the muddy crash landing spot were you to fall over.

Riding through the Green Lung can be a bit confusing as the sidewalks bend and turn in different directions. You can rest assured, however, that if you continue following a sidewalk through all it’s twists and turns, it will eventually dump you back out onto the same road you entered it from, just perhaps in a different location further down the road (or even where you had already come from, as was the case for us once or twice). This is really one of the most exciting and fun adventures I’ve been on in Bangkok. I love bicycles, I love exploring (and sometimes getting lost) and I love the jungle – this is truly the best of all 3 of those worlds!

A little further up the main road you’ve been riding down, there is a small temple. It’s not too different from most temples you find in Thailand, and is quite small by comparison to many you’ll see around Bangkok. The nice part about Prapadaeng’s temple is that it is about half way through your journey – a good resting point, a place to get some water or snacks from the nearby vendors – a place to relieve yourself, if necessary, too!

From here, there’s a pretty long stretch to get to the next destination. You’ll be heading from one side of Prapadaeng, out of the green lung temporarily, all the way to the other side. You’ll be travelling down the main road that cuts through the green oasis, which is busier than most of the others and passes through a larger town, and then back into the quiet forested region. At the end of this segment, you’ll come to one of the least touristy floating villages to still exist in Bangkok, Talad Bang Nampung. This is a great place to reenergize and relax as you wander around. My favourite section is the man-powered children’s rides, usually with someone walking around pushing the rides in circles. *PLEASE NOTE* This market only happens on weekends!! If you decide to go during the week, very few (if any) shops will be open.

The next, and final stop in this epic bicycle journey through the Green Lung is actually to visit an eco-hotel, accurately named “Bangkok Tree House“. This is one of Bangkok’s most green-conscious hotels, with many initiatives including taking a kilogram of waste out of the Chao Phraya River for every booking that is made with them. Their restaurant Menu follows the seasons with daily changes as fresh produce becomes available in Thailand’s fields and from sustainable fisheries, local fruit orchards and artisan dessert makers. A vegan menu is also always available. With the unique layout of the rooms, it’s a neat place to explore, if not stop for a nice cold beverage. The owner, Joey, is one of the friendliest guys around.

From here, you take the last leg of the loop around. It’s a nice section of road. No narrow pathways to worry about. This is just a leisurely ride back to the pier. It’s still a few kilometres to go, but through quiet roads, past some pretty small villages, which are of the Mon tribes who settled in this area more back in the early 1800’s. Enjoy this last leg’s serenity before getting back to the pier to return your bike, and then board the boat to return to the concrete jungle that faces Prapadaeng. You will definitely feel refreshed after breathing in the green lung’s fresh air, while working your own lungs on the old rusty 2 wheelers.

Remember to use caution on those narrow pathways. If you don’t feel comfortable, don’t do it… or at least take it really slow! Enjoy!

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