Decorated by Dorothée Meilichzon, a 32-year-old French designer known for her elegant bric-a-brac interiors, the cozy space is an assemblage of 1950s geometric wallpapers, rough stone, plank floors and plush handmade furniture. The vibe offers a vintage-cool departure from the predictable tile floors, zinc counters, round marble tables and plastic lattice chairs found in typical Parisian cafes.

Image “We are trying to educate the public that coffee is exactly like wine,” said Channa Galhenage, who opened Loustic. Credit... Agnes Dherbeys for The New York Times

The coffee is a departure too. Using specialty beans provided by Caffènation, a noted roaster in Antwerp, Loustic champions filter coffee — typically dismissed as “jus de chaussette,” or sock juice, in France — and changes the blends frequently.

“We are trying to educate the public that coffee is exactly like wine,” Mr. Galhenage said. “It has its own taste and flavors that come from the region in which it is grown.”

He is scarcely the only hyper-caffeinated entrepreneur giving a stylish and flavorful jolt to the hidebound world of cookie-cutter Parisian cafes and their frequently over-roasted industrial espresso. Over the last few years, more than a dozen new-generation spots have emerged, notably in the Third and 10th Arrondissements of the Right Bank.

Most are owned by expatriates or by French enthusiasts who discovered the intimate indie coffeehouse concept abroad. Innovative interior design, Wi-Fi and comfortable seats that invite daylong lounging are essential ingredients. High-end filter coffee and daily made baked goods are also de rigueur. And nearly all of the new spots (Loustic is a rare exception) purchase beans from upstart Parisian roasting outfits like Café Lomi (cafelomi.com) and Belleville Brûlerie (cafesbelleville.com), both also a testament to the local bean boom.