KLADNO, Czech Republic — The concrete bleachers at the east end of CEZ Stadion are yellowed with age, stained with beer and cracked with the stomping of untold fans over the last seven decades.



The glass around the rink is fogged, warped and streaked, pockmarked by pucks. The cramped locker room is below the rink level. Opened in 1949, the arena is a throwback in every way.



Just like its owner, who is also its star and main attraction.



Jaromir Jagr is easily identifiable in a sea of blue and white jerseys. Just look for the telltale signs — the curly mop of hair fleeing his helmet, the salt-and-pepper beard (more salt than pepper these days), the huge rear end that made it nearly impossible to take the puck away from him.



Oh, and the smile. Everyone knows that smile from Calgary to Kladno and every hockey town in between. Jagr is old. He’s tired. He’s overwhelmed with work and obligations.



But on the ice, he’s...