The Fairy Tale Poncho is my first adult garment design! It’s easier to make than it looks, and with it’s asymmetrical hem and mitered stitching, it’s designed to flatter larger bodies as well as smaller ones – and look as good with jeans and boots as it does with a crown and glass slippers!

The Fairy Tale Poncho is made in four “rectangl-ish” shapes that are sewn together. It could be made seamlessly, but I chose to use these 4 seams specifically to add structure to the garment. The seams are made using the Mattress Stitch in the tops of stitches, not the sides, so you’ll have the whole thing sewn up as fast as can be. The rectangles are reversible, but the sides are slightly different, so use the photo below to help you lay it out. If you find you prefer the look of the other side of the fabric, switch the As and Bs.

Fairy Tale Poncho

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US – M/N, 9.00mm hook

1250 – 1500 yds Worsted or Aran weight yarn ( Lion Brand Heartland in Redwood shown)

in Redwood shown) 1 button

3 stitch markers

tapestry/yarn needle

Gauge (laid flat – will hang larger): 7 rows x 10 sts = 4″ in pattern

Sizes: Small/Medium (Large/XL, 2X/3X, 4X/5X)

Video tutorial: Seamless Join; Mattress Stitch

MAKE TWO OF EACH RECTANGLE

RECTANGLE A: (Tip: Add a stitch marker to each of these pieces to help you remember which ones are A vs B)

Row 1: Ch 104 (106, 108, 110), sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. Sc in the next 55 (57, 59, 61) ch, sc2tog skipping 1 st in the middle, place marker in the sc2tog. Sc in the remaining 44 sts. Turn. (101 (103, 105, 107) sts)

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in the 1st 43 sts. Dc2tog skipping the marked st in the middle (move marker to dc2tog, continue to move up into decrease of each new row), dc in the remaining 55 (57, 59, 61) sts. Turn. (99 (101, 103, 105) sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the 1st 54 (56, 58, 60) sts, sc2tog skipping 1 st in the middle, sc in the remaining 42 sts. Turn. (97 (99, 101, 103) sts)

Row 4: Ch 2, dc in the 1st 41 sts. Dc2tog skipping 1 st in the middle, dc in the remaining 53 (55, 57, 59) sts. Turn. (95 (97, 99, 101) sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in the 1st 52 (54, 56, 58) sts, sc2tog skipping 1 st in the middle, sc in the remaining 40 sts. Turn. (93 (95, 97, 99) sts)

Row 6 – 44: Continue in established pattern, reducing by 2 sts total on each row, until you are left with 15 (17, 19, 21) dc sts in the last row. Turn.

Row 45: Ch 1, sc in the 1st 13 (15, 17, 19) sts. Skip the marked “middle” st, break yarn and seamless join to last st.

RECTANGLE B:

Row 1: Ch 104 (106, 108, 110), sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. Sc in the next 43 ch, sc2tog skipping 1 st in the middle, sc in the remaining 56 (58, 60, 62) sts. Turn. (101 (103, 105, 107) sts)

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in the 1st 55 (57, 59, 61) sts. Dc2tog skipping 1 st in the middle, dc in the remaining 43 sts. Turn. (99 (101, 103, 105) sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the 1st 42 sts, sc2tog skipping 1 st in the middle, sc in the remaining 54 (56, 58, 60) sts. Turn. (97 (99, 101, 103) sts)

Row 4: Ch 2, dc in the 1st 53 (55, 57, 59) sts. Dc2tog skipping 1 st in the middle, dc in the remaining 41 sts. Turn. (95 (97, 99, 101) sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in the 1st 40 sts, sc2tog skipping 1 st in the middle, sc in the remaining 52 (54, 56, 58) sts. Turn. (93 (95, 97, 99) sts)

Row 6 – 44: Continue in established pattern, reducing by 2 sts total on each row, until you are left with 15 (17, 19, 21) dc sts in the last row. Turn.

Row 45 (45, 47, 47): Do not ch. Skip the first st and the marked st, sc in the remaining 13 (15, 17, 19) sts. Break yarn and finish off.

ASSEMBLY:

Lay out the rectangles as shown below (note that these are NOT perfect rectangles, but they have a wobbly winged shape – don’t panic!). Make sure the first row of each rectangle is pointing toward the center. The two furthest away will be the back of the poncho, and the ones closest to you will be the front.

Seam 1: Use the mattress stitch to sew the center seam of the A and B furthest away to create one piece for the back of the poncho.

Seam 2: Use the mattress stitch to sew the center seam of front set, EXCEPT for the top 13 sts (approx 6″).

Seam 3: Use the mattress stitch to sew the shoulder seams, leaving 16 (16, 20, 20) sts in the center unsewn for the neck. (Note that this is 16 or 20 sts TOTAL – so 8 or 10 per half.)

COLLAR AND BUTTON LOOP:

Row 1: From RS join to left side (as worn) of top neck opening with sl st. Ch 1 and sc around the top (leave the V of the opening unworked). Turn. (32 (32, 40, 40) sts)

Row 2: Ch 2, dc in each st across. Turn. (32 (32, 40, 40) sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (32 (32, 40, 40) sts)

Row 4: Ch 2, dc in 1st 15 (15, 19, 19) sts, [2dc in the next st] twice, dc in the remaining 15 (15, 19, 19) sts. Turn. (34 (34, 42, 42) sts)

Neck edging and Button loop: Ch 1, sc in each st across top, work 3 sc into the corner, sc along the left (as worn) edge of the V, and then up along the right (as worn) side of the V, creating a ch button loop big enough to go around the button of your choice, opposite where you want the button to be located. (See photos). Continue to sc to the first sc of the neck edging, break yarn and seamless join.

EDGING

Time to try it on! If you’re busty and the front is too short for your preference, now is the time to add some length in front by working a few rows of dc and sc across the front hem before adding the edging. To add the final edge, sc all around bottom/arm opening. Weave in all ends.

And that’s all there is to it! I think the Fairy Tale Poncho would look amazing in an emerald green, deep blue, winter white – any color really! Change it up by adding a hood in place of the collar, cinching it in with a skinny belt, or adding a fancy edging around the hem – I can’t wait to see what you make of this pattern!

Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly 2013. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share this pattern with others. If you wish to make items for sale from this pattern, please visit the About page for details.