Askutasquash, askutasquash, askutasquash. I’ve been rolling this word around my tongue and repeating it under my breath like a spell, a prayer for rain, an expression of gratitude to the Earth for producing it. The word askutasquash is from Narragansett, a Native American language from which the word squash derives. It translates to “a green thing eaten raw or uncooked”. What a beautiful word it is too.

This genus of cucurbita includes many domesticated, cultivated species including C. moschata (crookneck pumpkin), C. pepo (field pumpkin) and C. ficiofolia (fig leaf gourd).

So what is the difference between a squash and a pumpkin? A pumpkin is a variety of squash. The word is often used to describe a winter squash, thicker-skinned and starchier, harvested later in the season to store over the colder months.

As the origin of the name suggests, we often think of squash as a summer vegetable eaten soft-skinned, young and tender. That’s where the confusion between pumpkin and squash lies.

The first known domestication of squash was in Mesoamerica, before maize and legumes, at least 8,000 years ago. An ancient and adaptive food, squash has spread globally. Every culture I can think of does delicious things with squash; you could say it’s become instinct.

I love growing them. On the farm we have more than 30 varieties, both summer and winter squashes, all heirlooms.

I can relate to them totally. By nature they are nomadic, prolific, adaptive and lush. Then they completely cark it and give in, drying up, going back to the Earth – but not before leaving behind glorious fruit which we then harvest.

Before the farm, I used to grow them in my backyard, cheering on the little seedlings as they pushed their way through the heavy mulching and well-composted soil. Then watching flabbergasted as they seemingly doubled in real estate overnight, covering my whole yard with an eye to bolt over to the neighbour’s garden too.

When they’re ready to harvest, delicata squash develop a light sunset blush. Photograph: Palisa Anderson/Supplied

I can’t choose my favourite squash. They all have quite different flavour profiles, but at the moment the one I’m most drawn to (probably because it’s the one I’ve seen most in the past week while harvesting) is the delicata.

It originates from central America but it is becoming more widely available commercially in Australia. I spot it often at farmers’ markets. It’s a good choice if you aren’t wanting to tackle a whole pumpkin because it isn’t very large – perfect for a single meal. It is so beautiful with its pale-lemon-coloured skin, contrasted dramatically with ribbed grooves that are a deep emerald green. When they’re ready to harvest they develop a light sunset blush, and the first leaf next to the fruit starts to die off.

Whenever it is at its peak season locally I love cooking with it or eating it at restaurants. With its sweet, smooth flesh, nutty taste and thin skin it works in savoury and sweet dishes. It can behave like a summer or a winter squash.

My friend Analiese Gregory, the wonderful chef from Franklin in Hobart, cuts them in half lengthwise then lightly steams and then roasts her delicatas, leaving the seeds in. If they have not become too woody the seeds are perfectly edible. I find the fibrous strands to be the most flavourful when eating whole squash roasted.

Delicata squash at Franklin restaurant in Hobart. Photograph: Franklin Restaurant

I’ve been having it for dessert recently, steamed Thai style and filled with a coconut and palm sugar custard. It’s not traditional, as this is not the typical variety used for this dish and yet it’s entirely instinctual.



Askutasquash, askutasquash, askutasquash.



Delicata with coconut custard – Fak Thong Sangkaya

Delicata squash with coconut custard. Photograph: Palisa Anderson/Supplied

(Dairy free and gluten free)

Serves 2, with extra custard

1 organic delicata squash topped and tailed close to the edge of the fruit, just enough for it to be stable when standing in a steam basket without cutting through to the seed pith. Keep the top and tail as you will use this to pop on as a lid when serving. Cut again in centre equatorially and using a teaspoon scoop out the seeds and fibrous strands.

For the custard

1 beaten organic duck egg or 1 organic hens egg + 1 extra yolk

1 cup of coconut cream

1.5 tbs coconut sugar slightly melted

1/4tsp sea salt

1 pandan leaf knotted

1 vanilla pod seeds scraped and pod popped back into your sugar container

Beat all the ingredients together. Don’t over-beat as this will lead to a custard that isn’t lovely and silky.

Place the squash into your steam basket. Pour custard into the cavity of the squash filling it all the way to the top. Pour the rest of the custard into a little bowl and pop inside the steamer along with the top and tail of the squash. Steam gently for 40 minutes, making sure to check that your steamer does not dry out.

Serve warm or cold with the extra custard scooped out on the side. Who doesn’t love a little bit of extra custard?



