Not that I hadn’t been warned about the heat by our excellent server, a seasoned vet I recognized from meals at Zahav. I also recognized the server at my previous dinner from meals at the Fountain, which has seven alums at Jean-Georges. And their smooth professionalism was among the highlights of my meals. So was the excellent team of somms who cheerfully navigated us through a wine list padded with trophy wines (average purchase here is $185!) to more modest quality bottles, like the $85 dry riesling from von Winning, fun glasses of Romorantin, and a Provencal Grenache blend that was spot-on for the venison.