At a large food market in the Chinese city of Wuhan, signs forbid the selling of wild animals and live fowl, while announcements calling for “victory” over COVID-19 play on a loop from speakers.

China’s “wet markets” have been slammed internationally as the coronavirus roils the world, with the disease having seemingly emerged from stalls selling live game in Wuhan late last year.

The government has since banned the sale of wildlife for food, but the reopening of markets has drawn criticism from around the world as the death toll from the pandemic continues to mount.

Shut down during the lengthy quarantine that sealed off Wuhan until April 8, the city’s markets are now fighting for survival as customers have not been rushing back.

“There’s no question, we’re doomed this year,” spice seller Yang, who runs a stall at the massive Baishazhou wholesale market, told AFP. “There have never been so few people at our market.”

Yang, whose sales have fallen by a third from before the lockdown, dismissed criticism of markets as virus hotbeds as “unnecessary panic”.