Update, 10/4/19: It’s been brought to my attention by both - Dennis as well as Dave - that his may seem like some sort of a guide; it isn’t. This is a supplemental list to the MPMD Calibration Guide which you should definitely read before proceeding. I will mention this again, because it’s just that important. Again - this is not a guide - just a list of parts I’m using.

I couldn’t help but notice that there wasn’t an easily accessible list of aftermarket parts for this printer, so I figured I’d go ahead and make one for my own reference, as well as for anyone else that might find it useful. The parts listed correspond to things I either have already done to my printer - or plan to do - and may include free .stl’s from ThingiVerse, as well as their associated guides.

Before you proceed, I highly suggest reading the MPMD Calibration Guide. In addition, here are a few words from David Keeton - who is a major contributor to the community support of these printers:



I intentionally left the belt mod out of the guide:

First priority should always be the absolute mandatory upgrades listed in MPMD 101 (extruder fix, trash shields, taller feet, power button, better SD card, lubrication).



After that, the upgrades mentioned in the standard roadmap path are best if you intend to fully calibrate your machine (bed clips and bed surface for sure, maybe others, like a better PSU, depending on your goals).



There are also many other upgrades that can help improve the printer I'm certain areas, that you may or may not need/want, depending on your goals. E.G., silicone socks, blocking the hole under the bed, making things quieter, draft shields/enclosure, part cooling, filament spindle upgrades, etc.



Experimental stuff is fine, but it should be labeled as such so noobs don't mistake it as some sort of easy and definitely good upgrade.

Thus, I have marked the parts which land more in the experimental/save it for last realm with an asterisk (*).

NOTE: This list is subject to change, so keep checking back to see what else has been added.

DISCLAIMER: It is your responsibility to check compatibility of all parts, and to ensure that all parts listed are correct for your application.

DISCLAIMER 2: Your warranty will most likely be voided, so proceed with caution. Any damage done to your printer is not my responsibility - or the responsibility or anyone who has listed parts for printing for that matter.

Adhesion Surface:

120MM Brosilicate Glass (~$10) - my personal favorite mod thus far. If you want to see just how well it works, take a look at this post of mine on Reddit.

Cooling:

120MM Corsair Fan - Perfect for cooling the Underside (~$30). I personally am using my 120MM Antec I had laying at home, but I’ll be switching to two of these for some of that RGB.

RENN WAFFEN Remixed Raised Feet: This is what you use to mount a fat 120mm fan underneath. It’s best to do this to allow for better cooling, along with a quieter printing experience. The stock fan sounds like a fucking jet taking off, and I dream of being a pilot during night-time prints (and I crash whenever the prints fail, which is common with the MP Delta).

Power Delivery:

The stock PSU is hopeless for ABS printing, so I went ahead and upgraded to the following 10A PSU:

5.5x2.5MM Barrel Connector 12V 10A PSU (~$20). I’ve yet to test it, as it’s in the mail, but I don’t see how it can be complicated - it’s just a PSU.

Raspberry Pi:

I use a 3B+ from Element 14 to take care of my OctoPrint side of things. I suggest going with the latest RasbPi if funds allow:

Element 14 RasbPi 4 version B (~$40)

These are the parts I have personally:

Raspberry Pi 5MP Camera (~$15-$30).

Camera and Display Extension Flex Cable (<~$9).

Here is the hardware I used to mount it all:

Other case options for the Rasbpi:

Step-Down Power Converters to feed a constant 5V and min 5A to your RasbPi:

5A Step-Down Regulator w/ MicroUSB output and 2.1mm Input (I use this one) ($9.99)

10A Step-Down Regulator ($9.99)

Service:

Capricorn Tubing for the Extruder (~$15) - easy to install, can take a sever beating, and never have to look back.

GigDigit Belt Replacement Kit (~$27 after shipping) - might as well do the whole thing, unless you want to upgrade the belts to a GT2 style with some 16T pulleys, which is a different - and a much more complicated - story.

GT2 Conversion Parts*: This is a very experimental conversion at the moment, and not a lot of people are using it. You’re better off with IGUS bearings and maybe the 16T idler pulleys, which work perfectly well with the belts linked above. Otherwise, the story becomes incredibly complicated, and calibration alone will take you a long time. This is not for the faint of heart, and it will take time and effort to get just right, so please proceed with caution. Also - this is a last resort, and not to be done unless all of the steps in the MPMD Calibration Guide have been followed. As per David Keeton - a.k.a. PurpleHullPeas - the developer of this mod, as well as a major contributor to the MPMD community:

The GT2 belt mod is definitely in experimental territory, because I can think of maybe two users who have mentioned they have done something similar (one of them being the guy who designed the very nice trucks).

GT2 Idler Pulleys - 16T* (~$8)

GT2 Timing Belt Pulleys - 16T* (~$9)

GT2 Timing Belt Pulleys w/ Belt - 16T* (~$15)

Belt coupler/joiner for GT2 Belts*

Belt tension meter;* can’t treat the GT2 belts like the stock “guitar string” belts. Same methods for tuning simply won’t work. PurpleHullPeas goes into detail in his GT2 conversion guide linked above, so make sure to read it.

PurpleHullPeas GT2 conversion* for beefier belts (the “Badass version” is an alternative to this)

Badass IGUS Carriers that I’m rocking; Update 10/4/19 - this specific part is still in development, and now I know why: calibrating M666 becomes a hair more complicated, so I highly suggest you go with PurpleHullPeas version. I’ll be switching to that one eventually.



Heat Creep Solver Fan (~$15) - I’ve seen people swear by this thing who (like me) have frequent clogs. I’ll be personally upgrading to an E3D V6 hot end eventually, but this is a solid solution for those of you who’d like to keep your MP hot end.

IGUS Replacement Z-Axis Bearings. (~$10) - I’m not sure if it’s placebo, but once I swapped in these bearings, the printer seems to have gotten quieter. They don’t seem to work with the factory carriages for everyone, so see the links I have above for after-market carriages that support IGUS bearings. If I had to recommend which set to go with, it’s this one:

PurpleHullPeas Carriers for IGUS bearings: Skip the GT2 conversion, just use these for the bearings themselves. The “Badass Carriers” linked above are complicated, and this one offers a very simple plug-and-play solution.

Redrex Replacement Extruder - much nicer than the bogus plastic piece, and comes with a new feed-gear. Make sure to select the Right Hand version.

Print Quality Mods:

TL-Smoother, 4 pack (leaves you one extra): (~$14) Check the torture test below to see if your printer could use this. Either way, it does make it quieter.

Miscellaneous:

3M Double Sided Tape - Extra Strength. (~$11 - much better deal than anything at Lowe’s or Home Depot) This is what I used to attach not only the glass to the surface, but the surface to the printer. No more having to deal with those pesky clips.