By Jessica Michault

“I call this collection ‘Sophisticated Freedom’ because it is all about the freedom at the roots of the Costume National brand,” said Ennio Capasa in a preview of his spring/summer 2015 show.

As free as Capasa might be, he is also very much in tune with the moods of the season. His collection ticked most of the trend boxes of Milan Fashion Week. He used a late 60s, early 70s starting point for his show. He incorporated quite a lot of fringe and suede into his line up of looks. And he hit upon the darker color palette (deep chocolate brown, plum, navy, black) that is sweeping through the shows in Italy.

Costume National Ready To Wear Spring Summer 2015 Milan / NOWFASHION.com

The designer made all these tendencies his own by folding them into the refined rock and roll core codes of the Costume National house. His brown suede came tricked out in silver grommets. Fringing was both controlled as trim on a tailored jacket and left gogo girl wild as “skirts” on eveningwear. Also the use of asymmetry was another adept way to make the collection feel modern. Think an angular descending ruffle on a classic halter neck top, handkerchief hemlines on dresses and a single sleeve tunic which all hinted at their retro starting points but defiantly felt grounded in the here and now.

This was a solid show from Capasa who continues to prove that rock and roll style will never die, not as long as he’s around.