A gentle breeze from the southeast filled our sails as we glided north along the Sunshine Coast towards Desolation Sound.

The wind forecast called for light winds for most of the week. While this would be perfect for martini sailing (sipping a martini in a calm anchorage is one of the key attractions of the voyage) this was not what our crew of five were looking forward to. They all hoped for advanced sail training opportunities – smooth seas never made a skilled sailor.

Just before White Islets (a rock formation south of Sechelt) we lowered the sails and drifted close to the shore and observed curious seals and mighty sea lions soaking up the last rays of sunshine for the day.

We filled the following days exploring picturesque anchorages such as Smugglers Cove, navigation practice using only paper charts and compass, entering and exiting anchorages under sail alone.

It was a lot of work but the crew had some fun too. At Savary Island, some showed off their acrobatic talents using a makeshift rope-swing made from the mast. Unfortunately, Cassel Falls in Teakerne Arm completely dried out, but we still enjoyed a refreshing swim in the lake.

As beautiful as Desolation Sound is, it is anything but desolate during summer months. To escape the crowds an adventurous sailor should head north beyond Desolation Sound. However, with tidal currents through narrow passes at times over 20 kilometres per hour, limited re-supply opportunities and at times challenging weather, such a voyage needs meticulous planning.

Our crew laid out an interesting route through Hole-in-the-Wall and Beazley Passage, both of which had to be carefully planned as raging ebb and flood currents allow passage only during a narrow time window. Strong currents are not the only challenge – many of the rocks, while charted, are often unmarked and studying the marine charts is crucial for safe navigation.

Leaving Teakerne Arm and heading for Hole-in-the-Wall marked the beginning of a 48-hour non-stop passage. During those two days, the crew had to show that they could manage a sailboat day and night – in any condition and in unknown territory.

Heading through Hole-in-the-Wall we were fighting a strong current, barely making any progress. We knew this would happen, but it was necessary to hit the next pass, Beazley Passage (Surge Narrows) in time before strong currents would make it impassable. As we were weaving through the waves, a float plane buzzed by at mast height, waving its wings to say hello.

My crew nailed their timing and we managed to safely navigate both passages and started our sail south towards the Strait of Georgia.

The first night was uneventful and the following day there were strong winds – perfect for sail training. We were in no hurry to head south and took advantage of the boisterous breeze and practiced many sailing maneuvers including various crew overboard recovery procedures. I took much pleasure in watching the crew performance getting better by the hour, managing the moderate winds and seas very well.