Don't let the flashpump get you down.

I'm very aware that it isn't always just cut and dry. Warming up for your current project may need to be completely different than warming up for your last big send. Here are a few situations, complete with a few tried and true warmup methods to get you prepped to clip the chains. Keep in mind that most of these methods assume this is a true project, and you aren't counting attempts. If you like to count your go's and keep them as low as possible, you'll abhor my suggestions.

1. 3 or 4 bolt Bouldery Crux, Right Off the Deck. If you're in redpoint mode, and you aren't counting attempts, then a surefire way to warm up in this situation is to stickclip as high as you can and then go bolt to bolt through the initial difficulties, taking it easy and getting your muscles firing. At the top of the crux, where the difficulty eases considerably, lower off, pull the rope, and rest for 15-20 minutes. Then fire it. You'll be through the crux before you know it, and on your way to the chains.

2. Long, Easy Climbing to a Chain Guarding Crux. If it fits in, use that intro "pitch" as your final warmup. Just below the crux, a bolt or two from the anchors, is where it gets tricky. You MUST take here. It'll be tempting to keep going. You feel so good! You might do it this time! Or, you might blow it, blow your warmup, and blow your day. Instead, call it a working burn and say take. Rest a few minutes, then fire the crux. Once. Twice at most, and only if it's not so steep that it requires shenanigans to get back into, which will take more out of you than you think. Lower off. Rest 30 or 40 minutes and then go for it.

3. No Real Crux, No Real Rest. Even though this is not my natural pace, it's my favorite style of climbing. Racing the pump can be fun, but requires a good warmup and precision movement to keep it together. If you're on attempt #57 or something, and you have the moves completely dialed, then just go for it after getting a decent "half pump" on your warmups (which you should be sprinting through, rather than using availiable rests). If you're only on go #6, you might need to refresh your memory about some key foot sequences. Go bolt to bolt. Say take no matter how good you feel. You can use this opportunity to brush all the holds, go over any tricky spots, and get your confidence going. At this point, don't try the crux move 8 different ways, no matter how easy the peanut gallery says their beta is; do it your way, once. You should lower off feeling pretty fresh. 45 minutes later, you're gonna need to choose a new project.