I first tasted the Twice-Baked Goat Cheese Souffle more than a decade ago at Zax in San Francisco. That restaurant died in 2002, but the recipe endured.

Owners Barbara Mulas and Mark Drazek closed Zax in San Francisco and moved to Berkeley, where they opened, and closed, Zax Tavern. In 2008, they opened Sidebar in Oakland, where Drazek's goat cheese souffle is on the menu every Wednesday. Drazek bakes 28 and they sell out every time.

Even though I've tasted thousands of dishes in between, the souffle remains one of my all-time favorites. Some combinations can't be bested, no matter how many other places open and how the trends evolve.

I could say the same about the beer-battered green beans at Coco500. They first appeared on Loretta Keller's menu at Bizou in 1993 and even though she came up with a new concept for the restaurant in 2005 and transformed it into Coco 500, the beans remain.

It's both a blessing and a curse having dishes that are so popular. On most nights she serves at least 30 plates of these light, crispy fried beans.

"I've had mixed feelings about them," she confesses. "I've had cooks quit because they were sick of cooking it."

For several years, she refused to serve them in January and February because she couldn't find great beans, but because of customer demand they're now on the menu at all times.

"I think it's going to be on my tombstone," she says with a laugh.

These aren't the only dishes I return to again and again. The clay pot chicken with caramel sauce at Slanted Door has followed Charles Phan to three locations, and is also on the menu at his Out the Door franchise. When I walk through the door at Betelnut, I immediately crave the chicken in lettuce cups; same with the rich chocolate pot de creme at Slow Club. These recipes define the restaurants and bring back the customers.

In the case of Betelnut's minced chicken, that's about 80 to 100 orders a night.

"We affectionately call it the Happy Meal of Betelnut," says Alexander Ong, who took over the kitchen nine years ago. He tried to revamp the menu, but realized that some dishes can't be changed. "I look at myself as the keeper of the flame."

More than a decade ago, I collected 200 of these memorable recipes for a weekly column in the Food section; the columns were then incorporated into a book, "The Secrets of Success Cookbook," published in 2000 by Chronicle Books. Although the book is 10 years old, many of the dishes still resonate and, in many cases, are still on the restaurants' menus.

These dishes, all of which are approachable for the home cook, have ingredient combinations, culinary tricks or techniques that set them apart. I've made the twice-baked goat cheese souffle many times through the last decade. It's great for a party, or restaurant service, because it's made ahead and reheated right before serving.

So what's the secret? The souffle uses cake flour rather than all-purpose. In addition, the ramekins are lined with bread crumbs, which give the filling support when the souffle is turned out on a cookie sheet after the first baking. The crumbs also provide a dramatic crunchy element that enhances the creamy interior.

For many years, I dropped my quest for these special recipes, but never my interest. When I went to the Tipsy Pig last year, I marveled at the macaroni and cheese, and wondered why it was so much better than the 50 or so other versions I've tasted through the years.

It's just one of a whole new generation of recipes I've uncovered that make me want to head to the stove. The chicken in brown butter at Corso in Berkeley, the warm pecorino pudding from Bottega in Yountville, and the warm ginger cake with caramel sauce at Chow are just a few of the others.

In coming weeks, I hope to share these special recipes with you through the Chefs' Secrets column that begins this week with the macaroni and cheese at Tipsy Pig.

-- Recipes and the Chefs' Secrets column on L6 and L7

Bittersweet Chocolate Pot de Creme Serves 10 The Bittersweet Chocolate Pot de Creme at San Francisco's Slow Club is a misnomer. Pot de cremes are generally baked custards and this is a stovetop pudding, but who's quibbling with a dessert this good? Similar versions at other restaurants can be too sweet and one-dimensional. Here the sugar is in perfect balance with the cream, eggs and bittersweet chocolate, resulting in complex flavor. 4 cups heavy cream

1 3/4 cups half-and-half

1/2 cup sugar

-- Pinch of kosher salt

18 large egg yolks

12 ounces finely chopped bittersweet chocolate, preferably Callebaut

1 teaspoon vanilla

-- Lightly sweetened whipped cream, for serving (optional) Instructions: Combine the cream, half-and-half, 1/4 cup sugar and the salt in a large saucepan. Bring to a simmer. Combine the egg yolks and remaining 1/4 cup sugar in a mixing bowl and whisk until blended. Pour a few tablespoons of the hot cream mixture into the egg yolks to help temper them, then pour the yolk mixture into the hot cream mixture. Stir over medium heat until the pudding thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 10 minutes. Place the chocolate in a large bowl. Pour the hot pudding over it. Add the vanilla and whisk until the chocolate melts and the mixture is blended. Strain the mixture through a sieve. Divide evenly between 10 5-ounce ramekins. Refrigerate until fully chilled, at least 2 hours. Serve with lightly sweetened whipped cream, if desired. The secret: The large number of egg yolks gives this pudding a unique richness. Per serving: 718 calories, 11 g protein, 35 g carbohydrate, 60 g fat (35 g saturated), 536 mg cholesterol, 85 mg sodium, 2 g fiber.

Chicken in Caramel Sauce Serves 4 to 6 The inspiration for this dish that Charles Phan serves at his Slanted Door restaurant in San Francisco came from a street cart in Vietnam. It's a good example of the great food that is served from street stands throughout that country. 1/2 cup dark brown sugar

1/4 cup water

1/4 cup Asian fish sauce (see Note)

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon dark or regular soy sauce

1 teaspoon slivered ginger

1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 small Thai chiles (fresh or dried), broken in half

1tablespoon canola oil

1 shallot, sliced

1 3/4 pounds skinless, boneless dark-meat chicken, cut into bite-size pieces

1/4 pound skinless, boneless white-meat chicken, cut into bite-size pieces

Steamed white rice

Cilantro sprigs for garnish Instructions: Combine the brown sugar, water, fish sauce, vinegar, garlic, soy sauce, ginger, pepper and chiles in a small bowl. Mix well, and set aside. Heat the oil in a large pot over high heat. Add the shallot and saute until brown, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the chicken and saute until it is slightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the sauce mixture and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has reduced by half, about 12 to 20 minutes depending on the pot size. Serve over rice and garnish with cilantro. Note: Fish sauce is available in Asian markets and upscale supermarkets. Per serving: 400 calories, 41 g protein, 22 g carbohydrate, 15 g fat (4 g saturated), 131 mg cholesterol, 903 mg sodium, 0 fiber The secrets: The interplay between the fish sauce and brown sugar creates a complex flavor. The combination of white and dark meat gives interesting texture to the dish. Wine pairing: Try something slightly offdry with pear and honeysuckle aromas and flavors, such as the 2008 Columbia Winery Cellarmaster's Columbia Valley Riesling ($12).

Twice-Baked Goat Cheese Souffle Serves 8 Mark Drazek's souffle, originally served at the now-closed Zax in San Francisco and now at Sidebar in Oakland, is baked in individual ramekins, then cooled and baked again right before serving, making it a great choice for entertaining. Its delicate texture and subtle goat cheese flavor make it great alone or surrounded by lightly dressed greens such as arugula. It also shines with baby spinach dressed with an apple cider vinaigrette, apples, celery and fennel. 3 tablespoons butter + extra for coating ramekins

1 cup dry breadcrumbs

3 tablespoons cake flour

1 cup milk

10 ounces soft goat cheese

3 large egg yolks

-- Kosher salt and pepper to taste

1 cup egg whites (about 7 large) Instructions: Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°. Butter eight 5-ounce ramekins, making sure to coat them well. Coat each ramekin with breadcrumbs then turn them over and tap out the excess. Reserve any remaining breadcrumbs. Melt the 3 tablespoons butter in a stainless-steel skillet over medium-high heat. Whisk in the flour and cook for 20 seconds, whisking constantly. Whisk in the milk and cook for about 1 minute, whisking constantly, until the mixture has thickened to the consistency of a thin, pourable pudding. Crumble 8 ounces of the cheese into a large mixing bowl. Pour the hot milk mixture over the goat cheese and mix well. Add the egg yolks and mix again. Season with salt and pepper. Using an electric mixer with clean, dry beaters, beat the egg whites in a large clean, dry bowl until stiff peaks form. Fold half of the whites into the cheese mixture to lighten it, then gently fold in the remaining whites. Divide half of the souffle mixture among the prepared ramekins. Crumble the remaining 2 ounces of goat cheese and divide among the ramekins, then top with the remaining half of the souffle mixture, dividing it equally among the ramekins. Sprinkle the remaining breadcrumbs over the top. Place the ramekins in a large baking pan and pour in boiling water to come halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bake for about 25 minutes, or until the souffles are golden. Remove from the oven and let stand, still in their water bath, for 15 minutes. Using a towel to hold the ramekins, run a knife around the inside rim to loosen. Turn out the souffles onto a baking sheet. The souffles may be held at room temperature for up to 6 hours before the final baking, or cover well and refrigerate overnight. When ready to serve, bake the souffles in a 425° oven for 5-7 minutes, or until light brown. Per serving: 250 calories, 13 g protein, 14 g carbohydrate, 16 g fat (9 g saturated), 112 mg cholesterol, 320 mg sodium, 0 fiber. The secrets: Using cake flour gives the souffle its airy, refined texture. The bread crumbs help give the souffles enough structure to maintain their shape after being turned out. Wine pairing: Serve a tart wine like Sauvignon Blanc, which will stand up to the tangy goat cheese.

Minced Chicken in Lettuce Cups Serves 4 If you really want to splurge, replace one-fifth of the chicken with squab. 1 head iceberg lettuce

1/4 cup dried black mushrooms

1/2 pound boneless skinless chicken thighs, finely minced

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 egg white

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 teaspoon finely minced fresh ginger

1/2 cup finely minced water chestnuts

2 tablespoons finely minced Chinese sausage (see Note)

1 tablespoon oyster sauce

2 scallions, finely chopped

-- Pinch of ground white pepper

-- Asian sesame oil, to taste

1 tablespoon pine nuts, toasted

-- Plum sauce, for serving Instructions: Remove the core from the lettuce and gently separate the leaves. Use a knife or scissors to cut the leaves into cup shapes. Refrigerate until well chilled. Place the mushrooms in a small bowl. Add enough hot water to cover. Let soak until soft, about 1 hour. Drain, reserving the mushroom-soaking liquid. Cut off and discard the mushroom stems. Finely chop the caps. Combine the chicken, soy sauce, egg white and cornstarch in a large bowl. Heat the vegetable oil in a wok or skillet over high heat. Add the chicken mixture and ginger and cook until the chicken loses its translucency, about 3 minutes. Add the rehydrated mushrooms, water chestnuts and sausage. Reduce heat to low. Stir in the oyster sauce, scallions and white pepper. If the mixture seems too dry, add enough of the reserved mushroom-soaking liquid to moisten. Remove from the heat, and drizzle with sesame oil. Spoon the mixture onto a platter. Sprinkle with pine nuts. Serve with the chilled lettuce cups and small bowls of plum sauce. To eat: Each diner takes a lettuce cup, adds a dab of plum sauce, spoons in some of the filling, then eats the delicacy like a taco. Note: Chinese sausage (lop chong) is available at Asian markets. Per serving: 175 calories, 16 g protein, 10 g carbohydrate, 8 g fat (1 g saturated), 53 mg cholesterol, 430 mg sodium, 3 g fiber. The secrets: Adding the egg white to the chicken before stir-frying gives it a moist, velvety coating. Making sure the lettuce is well-chilled enhances the contrast with the hot chicken. Wine pairing: Depending on the amount of plum sauce used, a rosé like the 2008 Toad Hollow Carneros Dry Pinot Rose.