A St. John's chef is fighting back against government's attempt to change the classification of his restaurant.

Todd Perrin, chef and co-owner of Mallard Cottage, said after a recent routine inspection of the restaurant by Service NL, he received an interesting suggestion.

"The suggestion was made that we should consider reclassifying ourselves through our food establishment license," he said.

If someone like us is not considered … to be a restaurant, then what in the hell are we? - Chef Todd Perrin

Rather than remaining classified as a restaurant, Service NL suggested Perrin submit paperwork to reclassify Mallard Cottage not as a restaurant, but as "other," due to the techniques used to prepare food.

Questioning reclassification

Perrin said the restaurant is focused on using local ingredients, butchering whole animals and preserving and curing vegetables and proteins.

He's questioning why this would warrant Mallard Cottage to be reclassified.

"Essentially, the conversation was that our methods are somewhat outside of the norm, and "obscure" was the word that was used, and inside their system we need to be documented in a different way," he said.

"That came as a little bit of a surprise to us."

Chefs Todd Perrin, left, and Jeremy Charles wear sealskin aprons as they prepare dishes using seal meat. (CBC)

The techniques used at Mallard Cottage are not uncommon in restaurants in other parts of the world, Perrin said, and this sort of reclassification marginalizes local food, making it something that's "obscure or weird."

"Our motivation is to provide the best quality food from local product that's safe and enjoyable for our customers, and the idea that it has to become more bureaucratic … I question that," he said.

"I don't think it makes anybody any safer, I don't think it makes our jobs any easier, and I think that it shifts the conversation about food, and shifts the thinking about food, towards a more mass-marketed, more industrial food complex."

Our methods are somewhat outside of the norm, and "obscure" was the word that was used. - Todd Perrin

The description of a restaurant Perrin said he received from Service NL falls closer to a large chain restaurant that uses more industrial preparation methods.

"If what's considered a restaurant becomes these big box store restaurants, and if someone like us is not considered by the government regulator to be a restaurant, then what in the hell are we?" he said.

"We're more of a restaurant than most places. We're populated by trained cooks and chefs, people who have devoted their lives to this industry, and we take it very seriously."

Perrin took to Facebook to champion local food and challenge what he considers "unnecessary bureaucracy."

Regulator should be knowledgeable

Perrin added the government regulator should be knowledgeable in techniques and practices in the local food industry, as Newfoundland and Labrador has become a world leader in cuisine.

He said he hopes his situation will start an engagement process with Service NL to make things easier for local restaurants.

"We just want to make sure that because a level of government doesn't understand or doesn't full appreciate what's going on inside a business, we shouldn't be regulated any differently," Perrin said.

"I think it behooves a regulator to make themselves aware of what's happening in the industry."

Different processes, different licences

A statement from Service NL says Mallard Cottage would need to update its licences to pursue canning and curing or smoking of meats, but that doesn't mean the property is no longer a restaurant. (CBC)

Meanwhile, a statement from Service NL said if an operator wishes to expand or change the kind of operations at the site, it may be necessary for their licence to change, as well.

"For example, if a restaurant is going to engage in smoking, curing, pickling, or other food processing activity in addition to their restaurant operation, then the licence should reflect this change," the statement read.

The Service NL inspection report said when Mallard Cottage stated its intent to pursue canning foods and smoking or curing of meats, it was advised the operation would need to be "properly classified."

"This does not mean that the property is no longer a restaurant, just that there is also a part of the operation that has a different classification in addition to the restaurant," read the statement.

"Service NL inspectors are always willing to work with operators to ensure their proposed changes are done safely."