There were about 15 of us on the one-evening course. Already, we were all rather dazed from a speech given by a hyperactive Slovenian butcher called Borut Kozelj. “OK guys,” he had enthused, “the flavour is determined by what the pigs are fed. That means, guys, that you can have many breeds of pig eating the same food and they will all taste the same. So, guys, if you buy pork that has been fed on rubbish, the taste will be rubbish. You always have to eat pork fresh, you can’t hang it like beef or lamb. Guys, if the bones are blackish, or the skin is yellow, or it has a fishy smell, don’t buy it, the meat is old. Don’t buy it, guys, if the meat is pale and watery, that is a sign there was something wrong with the animal before it died. And if the pork is spotted and dark, that meant that the pig was stressed when it was killed; guys, the capillaries exploded from stress and it won’t taste good.”