JUBILAT PROVISIONS is just a few blocks south of Park Slope, in an area that is gentrifying rapidly, but the Polish market’s low-slung stretch of Fifth Avenue cornered by expressways still feels like the Brooklyn noir of Pete Hamill and Tim McLoughlin, a place where, not too long ago, one could stumble upon a body.

But inside Jubilat’s modest storefront, one encounters, instead, a curtain of smoked meat and sausage, tinged rose by paprika and oven heat, hanging over a counter display that runs the length of the store. Customers navigate a narrow space mined with buckets of fresh sauerkraut and pickles, bordered by a wall of imported Polish groceries and a cooler full of prepared delicacies. The scent of burning cherry wood and spice drifts from the smoker in back as silent men in clean aprons transfer mounds of just-cooked meat from the kitchen to wood butcher blocks behind the counter already crowded with other cuts.