Opening a restaurant takes vision, but also money, patience and luck, especially in New York, where the competition is fierce and simple details like getting a gas hookup can become ordeals. Experienced chefs and restaurateurs are better at it, and this fall they’ll be the ones setting most of the tempting new tables.

Many of the new places I’m looking forward to most eagerly will have women running their kitchens, some with familiar names, others worth discovering, and all with admirable track records.

The one feature that will be absent almost everywhere is tablecloths.

The city has raw bars to spare, but Canal Street Oysters, from the seasoned restaurateurs Anthony and Tom Martignetti, will be a blockbuster, in a Beaux-Arts building with seating for 200, including 30 at the central limestone bar . Heading the kitchen will be Charlene Santiago, who was at the John Dory Oyster Bar and Reynard. The array of shellfish, raw and cooked, may include gooseneck barnacles but no lobsters. There’s a paella, and sandwiches like cod banh mi, along with beers galore and natural wines, practically a requirement for new restaurants this year.