Trip Report Half Domes RNWF: The day we found that pitch 11/12 was missing

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by drwb Wednesday July 8, 2015 12:36pm

July 5th, Scott Sinner and I woke up at 3:45 am for a car to car ascent of Half Dome's RNWF. This would be my 3rd time up the wall, Scott's first. Arriving to the base of HD, I noticed that the climbers trail no longer existed and some alterations to the spring at the base. I shrugged it off just thinking it was from the recent storms that have been coming though the Sierras.



Scott took the first block to the top of pitch 6. I took over from there since I was familiar with the route. After completing the Robbins Traverse we were exited to enter the chimneys and simul away. I moved out onto the face to climb pitch 11 (my least favorite pitch of the route). In go mode, I followed the terrain that was present. Soon I found myself 140 from the belay. It turned out I was climbing the down climbing portion of the free variation.



I remember yelling down to him at some point that I don't remember any of this. Yelling back "I thought you've climbed this before!"



I was so confused. Stopping and looking at the topo, I knew something was not right. I was lowed 60 feet from a block and was able to back clean some gear, untie, pull the rope and got back on belay.



There was some frustration between Scott and I. He was annoyed because I was wasting time and the fact that I do not see the obvious ledge system. I kept telling him, "Dude, there is nothing there!" I swung around on a pin to check thing out. That's when things dawned on me...the whole system flaked off.







Looking up at the anchors for pitch 11. Taken about 40 feet off the top of pitch 10

Looking up at the anchors for pitch 11. Taken about 40 feet off the top of pitch 10 Credit: drwb

I came back to the belay and Scott tied in to check things out. Yep... the whole ledge system was no more.



This is when I called Dave Miller. We climbed the route a few years ago and Dave knows the route better then anyone I knew. I asked him if he has heard anything about any rock fall on HD. He was blown away! After our conversation he went online to do some research. That's when he created this thread.



Scott and I were both stunned! We hung out at the belay for a good while, laughing and eating Sour Patch Kids before we started to bail.



[Click to View YouTube Video]



While bailing, everything started to make scene. The base, the broken trees and all the trash...





Looking down at the damage

Looking down at the damage Credit: drwb



Retreat turned out to be not so bad. Scott and I have gotten good at retreating with one another, that's one thing we are good at. We only had a 60m and 2 grigris. We managed to get down with a mix of down climbing and rappelling. We bootied some bail gear from previous parties. When on the ground, we only left 1 nut and 2 carabiners from our own rack.



When packing up, we ran into a group of 3 foreigners who were going to climb the route the next day. They spoke little to no English. We tried to explain what has happened...we only hope they understood and did not attempt the route.



I really want to thank Dave Miller for getting the word out. I did not want anyone else to go up there and epic, get hurt or get rescued.



I believe that this happened during the recent stint of storms in the Sierras. This would explain why no one herd it and why we were the first to come across it.



We are still scratching our heads about the experience...but most of all, laughing about it.



Be careful out there yall! Next time you climb something, double check to see if its still there!





Saying goodby to one of my favorite routes

Saying goodby to one of my favorite routes Credit: drwb





July 5th, Scott Sinner and I woke up at 3:45 am for a car to car ascent of Half Dome's RNWF. This would be my 3rd time up the wall, Scott's first. Arriving to the base of HD, I noticed that the climbers trail no longer existed and some alterations to the spring at the base. I shrugged it off just thinking it was from the recent storms that have been coming though the Sierras.Scott took the first block to the top of pitch 6. I took over from there since I was familiar with the route. After completing the Robbins Traverse we were exited to enter the chimneys and simul away. I moved out onto the face to climb pitch 11 (my least favorite pitch of the route). In go mode, I followed the terrain that was present. Soon I found myself 140 from the belay. It turned out I was climbing the down climbing portion of the free variation.I remember yelling down to him at some point that I don't remember any of this. Yelling back "I thought you've climbed this before!"I was so confused. Stopping and looking at the topo, I knew something was not right. I was lowed 60 feet from a block and was able to back clean some gear, untie, pull the rope and got back on belay.There was some frustration between Scott and I. He was annoyed because I was wasting time and the fact that I do not see the obvious ledge system. I kept telling him, "Dude, there is nothing there!" I swung around on a pin to check thing out. That's when things dawned on me...the whole system flaked off.I came back to the belay and Scott tied in to check things out. Yep... the whole ledge system was no more.This is when I called Dave Miller. We climbed the route a few years ago and Dave knows the route better then anyone I knew. I asked him if he has heard anything about any rock fall on HD. He was blown away! After our conversation he went online to do some research. That's when he created this thread.Scott and I were both stunned! We hung out at the belay for a good while, laughing and eating Sour Patch Kids before we started to bail.While bailing, everything started to make scene. The base, the broken trees and all the trash...Retreat turned out to be not so bad. Scott and I have gotten good at retreating with one another, that's one thing we are good at. We only had a 60m and 2 grigris. We managed to get down with a mix of down climbing and rappelling. We bootied some bail gear from previous parties. When on the ground, we only left 1 nut and 2 carabiners from our own rack.When packing up, we ran into a group of 3 foreigners who were going to climb the route the next day. They spoke little to no English. We tried to explain what has happened...we only hope they understood and did not attempt the route.I really want to thank Dave Miller for getting the word out. I did not want anyone else to go up there and epic, get hurt or get rescued.I believe that this happened during the recent stint of storms in the Sierras. This would explain why no one herd it and why we were the first to come across it.We are still scratching our heads about the experience...but most of all, laughing about it.Be careful out there yall! Next time you climb something, double check to see if its still there!

Trip Report Views: 12,133 drwb About the Author

drwb is a trad climber from Mammoth Lakes, CA.

Comments overwatch



climber Arizona Jul 8, 2015 - 12:43pm PT Really amazing this crazy ass Sport Toker Villain



Big Wall climber Toquerville, Utah Jul 8, 2015 - 12:43pm PT dust to dust Gnome Ofthe Diabase



climber Out Of Bed Jul 8, 2015 - 12:48pm PT Followed it live so to speak a cool report , thanx. Ghost



climber A long way from where I started Jul 8, 2015 - 12:50pm PT We all know who gets credit for the First Ascent of the RNWF, but I wonder who got the Last Ascent? MisterE



Gym climber Small Town with a Big Back Yard Jul 8, 2015 - 12:51pm PT Thanks for the first-hand report. Crazy huge exfoliation! this just in



climber Justin Ross from North Fork Jul 8, 2015 - 12:55pm PT So if a flake falls in the woods and no one sees it, does it make a sound?

Cool report, thanks. Crimpergirl



Sport climber Boulder, Colorado! Jul 8, 2015 - 01:14pm PT Great report. Was it spooky - did you wonder if the top stuff was going to cut loose on you given what fell off already? This is the craziest TR ever. Thanks! Flip Flop



climber Earth Planet, Universe Jul 8, 2015 - 01:25pm PT It looks like if you were sleeping on the ledge that it might have just fallen away from you. The anchor looks okay. JEleazarian



Trad climber Fresno CA Jul 8, 2015 - 01:28pm PT Thanks for separating this out into a TR. Great information.



John jfailing



Trad climber PDX Jul 8, 2015 - 01:30pm PT It looks like if you were sleeping on the ledge that it might have just fallen away from you. The anchor looks okay.

That would be INSANE. A violent awakening in the middle of the night, hanging there in your harness...



So is the route still climbable? JLP



Social climber The internet Jul 9, 2015 - 03:49pm PT It looks like if you were sleeping on the ledge that it might have just fallen away from you. The anchor looks okay. One of my first thoughts as well - a night to remember... Flip Flop



climber Earth Planet, Universe Jul 8, 2015 - 01:37pm PT pitches 11-13 are now grade 2 talus. I'm going to say that the route will need to be regraded at some point down the line. Someone must be wacky enough to be racking up for the new first ascent as we speak. Looks blank. I'd take a grappling hook on a crossbow and shoot for the pitch 11 anchor and then go for a 70m' onsight pendulum swing. or not. k-man



Gym climber SCruz Jul 8, 2015 - 01:47pm PT The whole darn thing is made of Corn Flakes, I say. tom woods



Gym climber Bishop, CA Jul 8, 2015 - 02:07pm PT So the ledge we all bivied on our first time up is gone? The one where people shoved loose rocks in to build the ledge?



Yikes. phylp



Trad climber Upland, CA Jul 8, 2015 - 02:22pm PT "as first reported on Supertopo ()"!!!



We saw a report on this rockfall on KTLA news last night - old news, man, we heard it here first. Quite amazing how the internet has changed the rapidity with which news spreads through the climbing world. survival



Big Wall climber Terrapin Station Jul 8, 2015 - 02:27pm PT Not my first route up the NWF, since I was determined to do the Direct as my first, but a weird ending to a place we all knew anyway.



Wow...... SteveW



Trad climber The state of confusion Jul 8, 2015 - 02:30pm PT

Great stuff.

Glad you two got down okay! High Fructose Corn Spirit



Gym climber Jul 8, 2015 - 03:04pm PT Incredible!



Interesting vision there, Flip Flop. Curious about the nature of the ledge... Would a bivy party normally tie in to that anchor body-wise to sleep on the ledge? If so, then yes, that would be an amazing, one in a gazillion experience, lol!!



Maybe only one in two would, or one in three? Imagine the survivor guilt of the one. Whew.



Wow! TFPU guys. the Fet



climber Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La Jul 8, 2015 - 04:46pm PT Best troll ever.



Just kidding.



Thanks for getting the word out so soon. Rick A



climber Boulder, Colorado Jul 8, 2015 - 06:30pm PT Looks like a job for Hensel! neebee



Social climber calif/texas Jul 8, 2015 - 08:03pm PT hey there, say, ... wow, what a way to write a report, too... folks don't always get to do one, in this style, :)





thanks again and for your nice pics... :) Gunkie



Trad climber Valles Marineris Jul 9, 2015 - 03:44pm PT Wow.... I distinctly remember that ledge and the short squeeze chimney at the right end of the ledge.



Glad no one was underneath that thing when it cut loose. Ezra Ellis



Trad climber North wet, and Da souf Jul 10, 2015 - 03:45am PT Thanks for getting the word out,

Wow! Prod



Trad climber Jul 10, 2015 - 05:07am PT Exciting.



Prod. clinker



Trad climber Santa Cruz, California Jul 10, 2015 - 06:16am PT Glad no one was underneath that thing when it cut loose.

We were going to be on July 24th. Disturbing. How would you know unless someone was reported missing? StahlBro



Trad climber San Diego, CA Jul 10, 2015 - 08:13am PT Wow, thanks for the first hand report. The only thing constant is change. Sula



Trad climber Pennsylvania Jul 10, 2015 - 08:26am PT Wired reports:

It wasnt until July 5th that a pair of climbers over halfway up the 2,000 foot cliff face noticed that there was a massive section of missing rock preventing them from reaching the next place to anchor their rope. There was a big dirt outline where the ledge was supposed to be, wrote Dave Miller on the climbing website SuperTopo, relaying the information from his perpelexed friend to a message board. Jaybro



Social climber Wolf City, Wyoming Jul 10, 2015 - 09:16pm PT Sometimes geologic time is now!



Nice report, thanks! Steve Grossman



Trad climber Seattle, WA Jul 11, 2015 - 10:27am PT "Fall down mountains. Just don't fall on me..."



Voodoo Chile Slight Release



Thanks for the report on this thoroughly disconcerting event! Cannon



Trad climber Murrieta, CA Jul 23, 2015 - 10:04am PT Where's the "You're gonna Die" guy? johntp



Trad climber Punter, Little Rock Jul 23, 2015 - 11:53am PT pitches 11-13 are now grade 2 talus.

Nice!

