Roughly 10 months out of the year, the Republic of Panama, which sits square in between North and South America, is a lush, green rainforest. For those couple of weeks bookending Mardi Gras, the air is dry from extreme drought, temperates hang out at about 95 degrees Fahrenheit every day, and everyone is on a full-week of holiday from work and school. Anticipation is high for the largest Carnival parade in the Western world outside of Brazil.

In Panama, the entire weekend leading up to Ash Wednesday is known as “Los Carnavales,” a national holiday filled nightly parades and parties, each building in intensity and attendance. Celebrations happen all over the country, but the two biggest take place in Panama City Itself, and a smaller village known as Las Tablas, a few hours south on the Azuero Peninsula. I spent the first half of the weekend in Panama City and the second half in Las Tablas for the biggest few days of the year in this crossroads of a country.