It was the day Saransk had waited years for: the arrival of a world football star; the arrival of Cristiano Ronaldo.

Late on Sunday evening, the Portuguese football team slipped into the newly built Mercure hotel – an odd blue and white modernist lump shaped like a Flex toothbrush. Within a heartbeat, the hotel was surrounded by the footballing United Nations. Russians, Portuguese, and Iranians stood together, chanting together in homage to the three-time golden boot winner.

But the God of football was also – it transpired – a simple man with worldly needs. With a wave, thumbs up, and a gesture indicating that he might just fancy a kip, Mr Ronaldo sent the children of the World Cup home – for a few hours at least.

By next morning, there would be no need for divine intervention: The police had inserted a second line of barriers.

Some of the fans and news cameras stayed on, hoping for a glimpse of the star.

Outside their hotel, Eduardo Martinez, 18, told The Independent he had travelled from Guadalajara, in Mexico to see his hero. How could he miss the chance to see “the most complete player in the world”? Michelle Alves, 27 who, holding an “I (heart) CR7” sign, had travelled nearly as far, from near Toronto, Canada, said the same.

Iranian Siavush Omidi, 28, was technically supporting the opposing side. He wore the shirt of Iran, but the “CR7” emblazoned across the front showed his competing loyalties. He had come to see a player he had adored for 10 years, he said; he had come to see him score.

Locals, too, had vigorously prepared for the footballer’s arrival.

In advance of the match, murals to the superstar appeared across the city. One was painted down the side of a block of flats on the road from the airport. Bookmakers took bets on whether he would stop by to take a selfie. (He didn’t).

And then there was Marina Bogomolova, 44, a local woman who declared herself Mr Ronaldo’s “Russian bride” soon after the announcement of Saransk as a host city. She left little to chance, she told The Independent, embarking on extreme fitness drive, and losing over 90kg in preparation for the “date”.

In the event, Bogomolova was unable to secure a meeting with her beau. But she was not disheartened: “He might not be trying to find me, but I will find him. Just maybe not in Saransk”

The choice of the tiny, provincial city to play host to the world’s top footballers certainly raised eyebrows. At the time of the bid, the city was only Russia’s 64th most populous, with a corresponding level of infrastructure. There were many much more obvious footballing locations in Russia than a city with hardly a football team to speak of.

Plenty of Russians hadn’t even heard of Saransk. And those that had associated it as the capital of Mordovia, a region with a far more famous tradition: prisons. The heart of Stalin’s Gulag system, Mordovia still hosts two dozen high-security colonies.

Saransk did have clear attributes however: a local government on excellent terms with the Kremlin. And a local population that voted in huge majorities for the president.

Unsurprisingly, there have been teething problems. A lack of accommodation for visitors led to much criticism of the host city. Saransk’s few hotel rooms sold out almost immediately. Swathes of mediocre apartments rented out for several hundred dollars a night. Indeed, the city seemed incapable of even hosting the many visitors flowing in. At the Peru vs Denmark match on 16 June, shops reported bread shortages. The city’s few restaurants have seen long queues.

But the warmth and charm of this very Russian city has seen it morph into a stand out venue. The city has been loud and beautiful; filled with music and dancing. Performances by a troupe called the Hip Hop Tigers, and a Russian-language version of Hippy Hippy Shake, might represent the limit of the city’s sophistication. But they provided joy that would warm the most cynical of hearts.

World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Show all 22 1 /22 World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Rui Patricio 6 The new Wolves stopper stood up to the physical challenge that Iran offered, and had little to do until facing their injury time penalty. AFP/Getty Images World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Adrien Silva 6 Back in the side for his first start at this World Cup, it took him a while to get up to speed. Nevertheless, he still complements his old Sporting midfield partner William very well. Getty Images World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Joao Mario 6 Impressed early on with some neat flicks, but was less influential once Rezaeian got the measure of him. Getty Images World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Cedric Soares 7 Able to offer Quaresma support such was the lack of Iran threat down his flank. Astonished as much as everyone else when he was penalised for a late handball. Getty Images World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Pepe 7 The usual Pepe performance of combined histrionics and first class defending. AFP/Getty Images World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Jose Fonte 5 Struggled to get the better of Azmoun, and was twice flattened for his troubles. REUTERS World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Raphael Guerreiro 5 Another defender given a tough evening, this time by Jahanbakhsh. A failure to deal with the Iranian's pace led to a booking. AFP/Getty Images World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Ricardo Quaresma 8 Started his first World Cup game at the age of 34 and delivered a goal worthy of the stage. Some less impressive antics in the second half marred an otherwise excellent performance. EPA World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings William Carvalho 8 The heartbeat of this Portugal team. Tidy when in possession, and equally adept at winning it back. REUTERS World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Andre Silva 6 Back in the side for his first start at this World Cup, it took him a while to get up to speed. Nevertheless, he still complements his old Sporting midfield partner William very well. EPA World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Cristiano Ronaldo 6 After four goals in the opening two games, this was a frustrating night for the captain. He struggled to make chances, missed a penalty and was given a harsh yellow card following a VAR review. EPA World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Alireza Beiranvand 6 Looked a liability early on as he made a habit of spilling crosses, only to save a Ronaldo penalty in the second half. Had no chance with Quaresma's wonder goal. Reuters World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Ramin Rezaeian 7 Recovered from a tough opening where Joao Mario and Ronaldo doubled up on the left to put in a solid defensive performance. Reuters World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Majid Hosseini 7 Showed he had the acceleration to keep pace with Ronaldo when the forward threatened to get in behind the Iran defence. EPA World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Morteza Pouraliganji 7 A few lapses of concentration apart, the centre-half performed well in his battle with Portugal's impressive attack. AP World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Ehsan Hajsafi 5 Lacked composure and discipline in defence, particularly after the award of Portugal's penalty and was replaced shortly afterwards. Reuters World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Mehdi Taremi 5 Blew his country's big moment to qualify for the knockout stages but blasting his only chance into the side netting. EPA World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Alireza Jahanbakhsh 7 ran's most threatening player, he made a number of runs down the right that troubled the Portugal defence. Subbed with 20 minutes to play. AFP/Getty Images World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Saeid Ezatolahi 6 Battled well in midfield as his side spent a lot of the game chasing possession. AFP/Getty Images World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Omid Ebrahimi 5 Struggled to get a foothold in the game as he chased the shadows of Adrien and William. AFP/Getty Images World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Vahid Amiri 6 Found himself dropping deep to help out his defence in dealing with Quaresma. REUTERS World Cup 2018: Iran vs Portugal player ratings Sardar Azmoun 7 Impressed in the first half as Iran's lone striker, bringing teammates into play with an array of neat touches. AFP/Getty Images

The compact Mordovia Arena has also produced some of the most electric matches. Today’s match continued the voluminous tradition set by the Peruvians nine days ago. The fans, almost entirely Iranian, took the volume to unprecedented heights.