ON the subject of brunch, the chef Colin Alevras holds inflexible opinions.

For example: “I love to go to brunch, but I don’t want to stand in line with the rest of those lunatics. There’s no reason you should ever do that. Ever.”

And: “Espresso has no place at brunch. None.”

The topic was much on his mind this summer as he drew up plans for Permanent Brunch, a forthcoming East Village spot that will serve eggs, waffles, red flannel hash, bloody marys and silver dollar pancakes, all staples of morning eating. Mr. Alevras intends to offer them all day, and all night on weekends.

If it seems like a step down in the world for the former chef and co-owner of the Tasting Room, Mr. Alevras says that is fine with him. What started as a homey little East Village wine bar in 1999 very quickly turned into a restaurant. The bigger, grander Tasting Room he opened on Elizabeth Street in 2006 was a restaurant, capital R, underlined twice.