Anthony Vaccarello, the shy Belgian with a penchant for designing dresses with thigh-high slits, has been named creative director at Saint Laurent, filling the spot left vacant by Hedi Slimane’s departure. “Mr. Saint Laurent is a legendary figure for his creativity, style, and audacity. I am extremely grateful for the opportunity to contribute to the history of this extraordinary house,” Vaccarello said in a release.

Vaccarello put on his first Fashion Week runway show for Fall 2011, and picked up ANDAM's grand prize later that year. He arrived on the Paris scene after a two-year stint at Fendi with a fully formed aesthetic that took its cues less from that Italian house than from another: Versace. “It's always black, always sexy,” he said backstage after his debut. It didn't take long for top models to catch on. Anja Rubik opened his second show and Karlie Kloss closed it in a clingy cutout number that was more bathing suit than it was evening dress. The hip-baring white gown that Rubik wore as Vaccarello’s date to the Met Ball in 2012 became an Internet meme. After that it was only a matter of time before Donatella Versace herself came calling. Vaccarello and Versace walked down the Versus Versace runway together at the label’s Spring 2015 show. The next season, with Vaccarello newly named creative director at the little sister brand, Donatella sat front row, sandwiched between the Paris hip-hop dance virtuosos Les Twins.

As the seasons have progressed at his eponymous label, Vaccarello has explored tailoring, dabbled in denim, and widened his color palette to include midnight blue and brown, with the occasional jolt of red, but the sexy bit is nonnegotiable. It’s made him a popular red carpet choice with other superbodied types—Gisele Bündchen, Jennifer Lopez, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley included.

Vaccarello’s streamlined mix of masculine and feminine, sexy and tough is of special appeal to Saint Laurent. Francesca Bellettini, president and CEO of Yves Saint Laurent, said in a release, “I am extremely happy to have Anthony Vaccarello take the creative helm of Yves Saint Laurent. His modern, pure aesthetic is the perfect fit for the maison. Anthony Vaccarello impeccably balances elements of provocative femininity and sharp masculinity in his silhouettes. He is the natural choice to express the essence of Yves Saint Laurent. I am enthusiastic about embarking on a new era with Anthony Vaccarello, and together bringing the maison further success.” Vaccarello's first collection for Saint Laurent will be presented at Paris Fashion Week Spring 2017 this October.

Here, a slideshow of highlights from the Anthony Vaccarello collections.