Chongqing Chicken Wings

“When they’re first put down in front of you they look unassuming, like really crispy wings with little flecks of red chile,” said F&W’s former restaurant editor, Kate Krader, about chef Danny Bowien’s incendiary wings. “But they have that kind of a dry, slow heat that’s just magnificent. They’re searing hot in a way that makes your mouth happy.” Instead of creating a crispy crust with flour, Bowien lightly poaches the wings then freezes them (which makes the skin expand) and deep-fries the frozen wings with beef tripe. He tosses the wings in a spice blend of Sichuan peppercorns, fennel, cumin and coriander, and serves them with dried red chiles, cilantro, scallions and sesame seeds.